Word Count: 3,097
Contents
31
Recommendations
01
23
33
13
25
36
29
38
Pestle
Executive Summary
Porters 5 Forces Tool
Introduction
Brand Case Studies
03 Image 2
09
17
The Consumer
SWOT
Conclusion
Bibliography
Image Bibliography Appendices
Executive Summary
How mass market retailers can be more successful in the promotion of sustainability-
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Can sustainability be promoted at a corporate level or is it a tool for profit? This report will investigate the mass markets approach to sustainability promotion, regarding consumers, hidden corporate agendas and brand initiatives. Primary research was carried out using independent interviews investigations and questionnaires. Secondary research was implemented using marketing reports, industry experts, online books and articles. The market was analysed using the S.W.O.T, PESTLE and 5 Porters tools to gain further insight into how sustainability promotion is impacted by internal and external environments. Retailers greenwashing sustainability initiatives, consumer lifestyles changes, and Brexit were 3 main factors impacting this.
Through the researchers results the 3 key findings were that 62% of 50 people sampled could not recognise any of 4 eco-friendly collections promoted in the market (see Appendix 3), 48% of young millennials drive the shift towards sustainable clothing (Mintel, 2017) and 37% of baby boomers feel left out of advertising (Chahal, 2014). The report concludes that there are a range of opportunities for the mass market to successfully promote sustainability through 4 crucial points; customer experience, transparency, the convenience culture and age. The future of sustainability promotion is considered using the Now, where, how strategy, highlighting issues, opportunities and recommendations. The key solutions emphasized the utilisation of technology to target a smart shopper and provide a convenient customer experience, through the experimentation of intergenerational brick and mortar designs and the incorporation of transparent business models for all consumers.
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Sustainability focuses on meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs.
3
Image 4
(Investopdia, nd)
Introduction
Sustainability
promotion
In terms of sustainability within fashion, the concept allows businesses to consider their attitudes towards their corporate responsibility, regarding their short-term actions impacting damages seen long term (Investopedia, nd). The clothing industry is the second largest polluter in the world (Fisher, 2015 cited by Sweeny, 2015). Such claims have led to the promotion of sustainability initiatives within retail marketing to provide transparency for consumers. 4
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Retail Mass market
Mass market is a retail sector designed to distribute large quantities of affordable goods to appeal to a wide range of consumers (Dictionary, nd). With conscious consumption replacing the conspicuous consumption of yesteryear (Boumphrey, nd cited by Hoang, 2016), retailers within the mass market have become increasingly aware of the changes needed within their traditional business models through their supply chain and promotional strategies. Businesses risk a 3-percentage point slide in their margins by 2030 if they do not embrace sustainable production (Kruse, nd cited by King, 2017) and such claims have impacted the way that British mass market retailers, such as H&M, Zara and Mango operate - brands and retailers are being forced to change the way that they sell to survive (Hoang, 2016) to keep up with the impacts of fast fashion and the increasing rate of conscious consumers. 6
Marks & Spencer- 6.1%
Mass Market
George- 5.5%
Key leaders & players
Next 4.7% Nike - 2.6% Tesco - 2.3% New Look - 2.2% Clarks- 1.8% H&M - 1.6% Adidas- 1.5%
Tu - 1.4%
7%
6%
5%
4%
3%
2%
1%
0%
Table 1: Brand shares of Apparel and footwear in 2016 Source: Euromonitor analysis
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According to research taken from 2016, the top 10 key players and leaders within the mass market sector include M&S, Asda George Next PLC, Arcadia Group, Nike (UK), Tesco, New Look, Adidas, Clarks and H&M (Euromonitor, nd). This research suggests that M&S is the number one leader within the mass market for apparel and footwear for 2016. Despite this, the M&S annual report from 2017 suggests that the retailer is down -2.8% with a 3.8bn clothing and home revenue and 24.6m customers who shop with the retailer, down by -0.1m (Marks & Spencer, nd). In analysis of the data that the M&S annual report 2017 has provided and the consideration of sustainability promotion within the mass market, M&S as a number one retailer in this sector may have the market power to influence customer buying habits through the promotion of their Plan A initiative and the use of mass appeal.
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Political Image 7
• Political instability caused by Government spending and the volatility of Brexit may impact the mass market retail sector negatively – exiting the EU could mean no free trade through the single market and imports are more expensive if there is no deal. • Industry regulations (including those for sustainability reports and policies) may become stricter to cut down the risks of exiting the EU for businesses. • Rising talent and free movement – for EU citizens who want to travel elsewhere the uncertainty of Brexit may mean skills/space for innovation and creative promotion is lower as travelling abroad becomes costly.
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Economical
• Consumer confidence and spending decreases as the value of the £ lowers against the $ at a 31-year low (Independent 2, 2017) • Recession • Inflation • Interest rates
e ag
Im
Social
9
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• • • • •
Shift in consumer lifestyle Demographic changes Corporate social responsibility – charitable work Online shopping Social media
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Technological Image 11
• that • • •
New development and innovations may help mass market retailers to experiment with the way sustainability promotion is approached New production processes Incorporation of smart fabrics to promote sustainability in mass market retail products 3D printing – sizing is right and materials aren’t wasted
Legal
• Environmental laws and policies may mean that sustainability in the mass market has to be promoted more effectively and transparently to consumers • Health and safety of all workers
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Environmental
• Sustainability • Pressure groups may increase the number of sustainability initiatives in the retail mass market • Fast fashion trends could negatively impact the promotion of sustainability in the mass market. Retailers priorities may lie with keeping up with trends and lead times rather than ethical issues. • Greenwashing may mean that consumers lose further interest in brands that are misleading them, decreasing their confidence in spending and reliance on brands. 10
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In summary, British retailers may have many external concerns regarding how they approach their future operations, to minimize their threats and maximize their opportunities. In consideration of sustainability promotion, mass market brands may need to shift their focus towards the political, social, technological, and environmental factors. Key conclusions from the analysis of these factors draw the researcher’s attention to political instability, changes in demographic, shifts in consumer lifestyles, corporate responsibility and social media. As well as the gap for new development and innovations through sustainability promotion and transparency instead of greenwashing initiatives. These areas are external factors that have the potential to impact the successfulness of sustainability promotion in the market. New production processes emphasize how mass market retailers could exploit the convenience culture as a business opportunity. In order to survive mass market retailers must prioritize experience and ethics (Portas, 2016). 11
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Porter 5 Forces Tool Sustainability
Bargaining power customers is high.
promotion
of
in
the
mass
market
Degree of competitive rivalry is high. Threat of substitute products is high.
Threat of new entrants is medium.
Bargaining power of suppliers is low.
In summary of the 5 Porters tool that the researcher carried out against the mass market sector, the threat of new entrants is moderate, mainly because retailers who promote sustainability is slowly increasing, however this is in contrast with the threat of sustainability promotion in mass market being greenwashed - the bargaining power of suppliers is low as transnational companies threaten to move to cheaper alternatives if costs are increased. 13
The bargaining power of customers remains high - this claim can be applied to the mass markets lead player, M&S, as it sees an estimated (2015) market drop of 6.5%. The retailer has failed to understand the change of habits and requirements of its targeted consumers aged 65+, leading the retailer to consider lowering its prices‌and reduce the number of promotional events (Mintel 2, 2016). This suggests that the promotion of sustainability may be reduced, impacting the opportunity to cut costs long term by promoting new sustainable innovations and increasing the threat of sustainability becoming a priority in everyday promotion.
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Multi-national corporations and sustainable development are presently incompatible.
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(Vierderman, 1997)
The threat of substitution is high, as key mass market leaders like H&M suggest through their promotion of more affordable and sustainable equivalents in comparison to competitor Zara’s, premium Join Life collection. From the primary research carried out by the author 48% of 50 people surveyed would not pay more for environmentally friendly clothing (See Appendix 3). The degree of competitive rivalry is also high as the mass market is saturated with retailers who offer similar products and services. Regarding other retail sectors, the mass market competes with the value sector because of its low prices and faster lead times as well as the high end high streets higher quality of clothing. 16
Brand Case Study 1 SPORTS
DIRECT
Sports Directs aim, to make corporate responsibility central to their vision of being a leader within Sports and Lifestyle retailing (Sports Direct, nd) is a method of marketing, in which the concept of sustainability promotion is “greenwashed” (Westerveld, 1986 cited by Atkinson, 2014) through marketing myopia (Levitt, 2004). As a retailer they focus more on the needs of the business and primary research carried out by the author suggests that “the promotion of sustainability is not their number one priority” (Refer to Appendix 1). In a report, a committee suggests that the high-street brand treats workers like commodities rather than humans (Independent, 2016). Zero-hour contracts are handed to 90% of its 23,000 overworked employees (The Guardian, 2013) and considering that Sports Direct is the UK’s number one sporting mass market retailer by revenue (Sports Direct 1, nd), this impacts the way that sustainability is promoted to consumers, in which other large mass market retailers, who may operate correctly could lose the trust of consumers who shop in the high-street, hence the researcher suggesting that Sports Direct is a retailer who uses sustainability initiatives as a marketing tool to mislead the public (refer to Appendix 5). 17
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The promotion of sustainability is not their number one priority - sales and marketing are.
Respondent 1 (see Appendix 1)
Figure
Image 17
Figure 8
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Brand Case Study 2 Hennes
&
Mauritz
(H&M)
H&M’s Sustainability manager, Midby (2017) says that the retailer wants to communicate with their customers by promoting sustainability and targets to only use sustainable sourced materials by 2030 (King, 2017). Through creating their own personal style rather than following fast fashion trends (Midby, 2017). According to Midby 2 (2017), 40,000 tons of garments has been collected since the Close the Loop scheme began in 2013, aiming to increase collection to 25,000 a year by 2020. But is this a marketing tool?
Only 22% of the people 50 surveyed in the authors primary research knew about the retailers Conscious Collection and through more of the authors personal research, employees in H&M are aware of sustainability initiatives when customers bring in their bags of clothes. However, they miss out the fact that customers must first spend ÂŁ25 to get ÂŁ5 off their next purchase (refer to Appendix 4). 20
Brand Case Study 3 MARKS
&
SPENCER
M&S continue to promote sustainability through their Plan A program. The initiative informs their decisions as a key player in the mass market enabling them to “embrace a sustainable future” (Barry, 2017). The lead market retailer has been steadily losing market share due to low value retailers like Primark but may potentially benefit from promoting its fair-trade Plan A sustainable collection, which justifies their premium pricing within a mass market sector (Euromonitor 2, nd).
However, in contrast to this, consumers who fit in their target market, females aged 65+ (Mintel 2, 2016) suggest that, “If they want people to buy sustainable clothes, they shouldn’t make it so costly” (See Appendix 2). Mintel’s consumer research also highlights that 44% of younger millennials aged 17-26 would like to see eco-friendlier fabrics used in clothes. This is in comparison to only 34% of generation X and 30% of baby boomers (Mintel, 2017). This research suggests that mass market leaders like M&S who promote sustainability to an older consumer may not be benefitting as much as mass market retailers who promote their eco-friendly initiatives to a younger consumer. Considering this, M&S may need to take advantage of new opportunities when promoting sustainability to consumers. 21
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Our approach to product sustainability is a demanding one...we don’t promise that all of our products will be sustainable by 2020.
(Marks & Spencer 2, nd)
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The consumer
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The primary research carried out for this report suggests that, 41% are aware of the impacts that clothes have on the environment and 84% suggested that they would buy from an eco-friendly collection (See Appendix 3). Despite the limited sample size of the primary research , it still provided some evidence to how consumers in the mass market feel towards the promotion of sustainability. In the fact that consumers are consciously aware of the impacts that their decisions are creating. However, consumers feel that brands need to be held more accountable for their lack of transparency (Bell,2017) in the promotion of sustainability. “An increasing number of consumers in developed regions consider sustainability actions more of an imperative value than an add� (Farraj, nd cited by Bell 2, 2016). This is also emphasised through the primary research, 32% of 50 sampled consumers strongly believe in retailers being eco-friendly, suggesting that not only is there a want for sustainability promotion but there is a need for it in the mass market sector. Despite retailers currently monitoring the consumer behaviour of millennials, generation z are the future consumers to watch – the generation of clickivists that will bring forth change through the promotion of ethical issues, using resources like social media to educate previous generations; the millennials and baby boomers.
Generation
Driving the promotion of ethical issues • Enjoy products rather than experience (WGSN,2016) • 60% of generation z want to make a global cause (WGSN,2016) • An 8 second filter when it comes to sifting through content (WGSN, 2016) • 85% OF Gen Z customers will choose eco-friendly products over those that are not (Marian 2, 2017) •
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Z
M i l l e n n i a l s • • •
Prefer experience rather than products (WGSN, 2016) Care less about ethical issues Limited attention span (Blankson, 2017)
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Baby •
• •
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Boomers
Tech Savvy – 59% Shopping online (Saunter 1, 2017) Feel excluded from promotions and advertising (Chahal, 2014) Test drivers – who learn about products before they buy them (Saunter 2, 2017)
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Ima
• An increase of sustainability initiatives within the mass market. • Sustainable initiatives and moral standards are already included within the clothing. • Affordable prices for consumers. • Mass market has a large distribution network – helping to promote more sustainability initiatives.
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Weaknesses ag
Strengths
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• Large inventories cause an impact on the environment as fast fashion means fast lead times. • In-store promotion of sustainability isn’t readily available – leaflets or through store layouts. For example respondent 1 went into H&M and found that there was no leaflets readily available for customers (See Appendix 4). • Quality of clothing doesn’t promote a sustainable way of living – consumers are having to constantly replace reasonable quality clothing. • Mass market retailers aren’t transparent enough about the way they operate – sustainability promotion is often greenwashed. • Sustainable clothing in the mass market is considered more expensive – even through sustainable promotion customers choose non-sustainable clothing. For example, respondent 2 suggests that high-street retailers are too costly in regards to the promotion of sustainable products (See Appendix 2).
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Opportunities
• The “convenience culture” – ensuring that sustainability and eco-friendly initiatives are included into their products. • The advancement of technology – changes in consumer habits can be monitored quicker. • Include more sustainability promotions into brick mortar – through leaflets and in-store sections dedicated to sustainable products. • Opportunity to cut costs long-term promote new sustainable innovations. • Produce reports based on the impacts sustainability initiatives are having within the mass market sector.
Threats
• Sustainability initiatives may never become a part of everyday promotion. • Recession and Brexit may mean consumers have less money to spend on leisure. • How mass-market retailers approach sustainability – greenwashing (Westerveld, 1986 cited by Atkinson, 2014) sustainability marketing myopia (Levitt, 2004), using it as a marketing tool. • Lead time – sustainability promotion may not fit into mass market’s fast fashion pace.
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In summary, the research from the SWOT analysis suggests that the mass market should make informed decisions to improve the way that they promote sustainability to create mass appeal for consumers. Particularly the SWOT suggests that retailers in the mass market should take advantage of the possible opportunities so that the promotion of sustainable products is effective to the greatest extent for all consumers. Through primary research, it was found that 94% of the 50 consumers surveyed believed that high-street retailers could be more transparent when promoting sustainability (See Appendix 3), as the SWOT would suggest is a mass market weakness. While 36% suggested that mass market retailers could incorporate sustainable practices into clothing for them to promote more sustainability (See Appendix 3), the SWOT suggests that this is something some mass market retailers already do but could do more of to use possible opportunities to their full advantage. 27
“
For companies to ensure continued evolution they must define their industries broadly to take advantage of growth opportunities.
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(Levitt, 2004)
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Conclusion
How mass market retailers can be more successful in the promotion of sustainability-
The purpose of sustainability promotion in mass market retailing is to increase consumer awareness of the initial environmental impacts of Fast Fashion and to recognize the long-term and short-term consequences. From the investigation of how mass-market retailers can be more successful in the promotion of sustainability, the researcher would conclude that the retail mass market could make more of a conscious effort to promote sustainability within its business models - acknowledging the way that the sector influences the overall perception of the Fashion Industry and its environmental impact. 29
Through the investigation, the researcher found that although sustainability promotion was increasing in mass market retail, several issues could be identified that could possibly affect the future of the industry and the mass market sector. Evidently, retail mass market has many strengths regarding sustainability promotion, however this investigation suggests that its strengths may be outweighed by the weaknesses and threats of its internal and external environments. McCartney (nd) cited in Huffpost (2017) highlights that part of business is to change and the fashion industry has got more to do. For mass market retailers to fully understand how they can be more successful in the promotion of sustainability they should take advantage of future opportunities and possible recommendations.
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Recommendations
The future of the Retail Mass Market
Experimentation of intergenerational in-store designs
New development & innovations Baby boomers feel left out of promotions/ Young millennials want more sustainable promotion
In-store promotion of sustainability not readily available
Now (Issues) 31
Demographic changesconvenience culture
Technology
More sustainable promotions instore to be more transaparent
Where (Opportunities)
Utilising technology
How (Recommendations)
From the outlook of the report, the future promotion of Sustainability has the potential to be a profitable success in the retail mass market, only when it is implemented into business models correctly. To promote sustainability and solve key issues in the market, retailers need to understand consumers are better informed (source, year). To do so, the researcher would recommend the utilisation of technology and the incorporation of intergenerational in-store designs. Emphasising their transparency not their hidden agendas. Intergenerational design is the future‌people centric‌not product centric (Lee, 2017) and considering the advancement of technology is an opportunity to exploit the convenience culture, it is a suggestion the researcher would highly recommend. A new development wanted across all age groups is digital screening, 30% of people aged 16+ would like to see digital screening in-store (Sender, 2017).
The most successful retailers will use technology like digital screens to create a personal shopping experience (Sender 1, 2017). Primary research on 50 people suggests that 32% believe stores could promote more sustainability (See appendix 3) and 31% strongly agreed that in-store promotions encourage them to buy more clothes (See appendix 3). It could be a development that retailers like Sports Direct take on to improve their stance on ethics or H&M incorporate to target both Millennials and Generation Z. Key players like M&S could use it to target over 55’s more successfully as 20% of 55+ are interested in digital screening (Sender 2, 2017). This suggests that by promoting in-store, using digital screens, every generation of consumer is targeted. All consumers get transparency while retailers promote sustainability successfully and ethically.
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Appendices Appendix 1
An interview discussing the Mass Market Retailer Sports Direct, between the Researcher and Respondent 1; a former employee at the firm.
Researcher: How long did you work at Sports Direct and what type of contract was you given? Respondent 1: I worked there for 6 years and I had a zero- hour contract. Researcher: This was at a time when Sports Direct had issues with their 0-hour contracts and the treatment of their employees was low as seen in the main stream media, how as an employee did you respond? Respondent 1: We all received an email from Mike Ashley to say he was reviewing the 0-hour contract and was planning to meet with people to discuss the treatment of employees. I left before I received any feedback on the matter and I’m doubtful any current employees got feedback either. Customers were interested in how we were treated but I responded by keeping it professional and denied the rumours. Researcher: What are you views on the company now that you no longer work there? Respondent 1: I think that the firm are very shady, but I don’t particularly agree with all the scrutiny. When I was first employed there, I wasn’t given any formal training regarding health and safety, knowing that the store would get relatively busy and that they are such a large firm, I thought this would be the first thing they would carry out. Over my time working there I experienced the 2011 riots, an armed robbery and suffer from a long-term injury after using their step ladder. But the managers treated me as fair as they could under the circumstances. I believe that people with the most authority are the ones misleading customers into buying their products when the promotion of sustainability is not their number one priority – sales and marketing are. Researcher: Thank you for taking part in the interview.
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Appendix 2
An informal discussion between the researcher and respondent 2 about the Mass Market Retailer Marks and Spencer’s.
Researcher: So, what could retailers like M&S do for customers like you? Respondent 2: I think that if they want people to buy their clothes, especially the sustainable collections, they shouldn’t make it so costly. As an older woman I want to dress fashionably but modest at the same time. I can go to other high street stores and not find the type of clothing I’m looking for but fit their prices into my budget. On the other hand, I can go to M&S and only find 1 or 2 things that fit into my budget. Researcher: Is fashionable but modest something M&S do? Respondent 2: I feel like even though M&S target their clothing towards an older customer, people my age (late 40’s) still shop their occasionally. I only like some of their items because I find that the high street target young customers or stores like M&S miss their targeted customers and make their clothes really dated.
Appendix 3
Sustainability promotion in the mass market - based on 50 respondents. Question 1 - What is you gender? 54% - Female, 46% - Male
Question 2 - How old are you? 58% -16-24, 10% - 24-34, 6% - 35-44, 22% 45-54, 4% 55+ Question 3 - Do you know what being “sustainable” means? 82% -Yes, 18% - No
Question 4 - When buying clothes what is the main thing you look for? 30% - Low prices, 28% - Quality, 0% - What they are made from, 2% - Eco-friendliness, 14% - Size, 24% - Style, 0% - Occassion, 2% - Other 39
Question 5 - To what extent do you agree with the following statements? In-store promotions encourage me to buy clothes - Agree 62%, 26% Neither or disagree, 12% Disagree
Initiatives like “Rewear, Reuse, Recycle” are important to me - 23% Agree, 48% Neither agree or Disagree Disagree 29% I consider where my clothes may be made - 25% Agree, 23% Neither agree or disagree, 52% Disagree
I am aware of the impacts clothes have on the environment - 40% Agree, 29% Neither agree or disagree, Disagree 31% I buy more clothes than I give away- 63% Agree, 15% Neither agree or disagree, 23% Disagree
I would pay more for environmentally friendly clothes - 22% Agree, 30% Neither agree or disagree, 48% Disagree Question 6 - Would you buy fom an eco-friendly collection? 84% - Yes, 16% - No
Question 7 - Do you know about any of the eco-friendly collections below? 4% - Zara’s “Join Life” collection, 22% - H&M’s “Conscious” collection, 10% - M&S “Plan A” collection, 2% - Mango’s “Mango Committed” collection, 62% - None
Question 8 - Do you believe high-street retailers could be more transparent about their impacts on the environment? 94% - Yes, 6% - No Question 9 -What are you attitudes towards high-street brands being more eco-friendly? 33% - Strongly believe in it, 24% - Unsure, 43% - Don’t have an opinion on it
Question 10 - From the recommendations below, pick 1 thing brands could do to promote sustainability? 32% - Promote more of the environmental iniatives in-store & online, 32% - Be more transparent about what they to help the environment, 36% - Incorporate environmentally friendly practises into clothing
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Appendix 4
The researcher got a respondent to go into the H&M (Bullring) store and ask about the sustainability initiatives that the mass market retailer offered its customers. Respondent 4: (First the respondent looks around the store for sustainable promotions but can’t find anything, so they go to the till instead.)
Respondent 4: Hiya, do you have any leaflets on your sustainability initiatives? Employee: I’m not sure where the leaflets are instore, but we do offer a £5 off voucher when you bring a bag of your unwanted clothes. Respondent 4: Oh ok, do I have to spend a certain amount before I get the £5 off? Employee: Yeah, you must spend £25 before you get the £5 off your purchase. Respondent 4: Okay thanks for your help bye. 41
Appendix 5 When an environmental issue or disaster becomes public knowledge, many consumers want to help by shopping responsibly
To attract these customers...
…Firm A implements fundamental environmental reforms. M&S
…Firm B makes minimal changes in order to claim green credentials.
Some firms take environmental issues seriously.
H&M
…Firm C misleads the public on its environmental policies. Sports Direct
Some firms use environmental issues as a marketing tool – whitewashing but with a green brush.
Table 2: Retailers Greenwashing Source: Atkinson (2014) 42