Hubert White by Fashion Forum Magazine

FORUM/The Substance of Style/FW 2017/18

MAKE AN ENTRANCE IN FALL’S BEST FASHIONS

INSIDE JOB

A LOOK AT ETON’S CUTTING-EDGE PRODUCTION

SMART DRESSING

FOR WORK AND WEEKENDS

Official menswear of the LA Galaxy Jelle Van Damme / Ariel Lassiter / Gyasi Zardes / Brian Rowe

#S amxGalaxy

Hubert White

Ultimate Luxuries

747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com

PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

5 Fall Icons

Karen Alberg Grossman MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser

Travel: Hit the Road

PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Menghi DESIGNER

Jean-Nicole Venditti

FEATURES 6

Employee Spotlight: Kevin Luedke & Zach Allen 9 The New Nicollet 18 Profile: Eton 52 Gifts: Ultimate Luxuries 54 Wine: Futures Tense

FASHION 22 Fabrics: Commanding Performance 24 Dressing Up, Dressing Down 46 5 Fall Icons

DEPARTMENTS 4 12 14 56 58 60

Welcome Letter Ask Forum The Fashion Forum Travel: Hit the Road Wheels: Driving Nostalgia End Page: Get Smart

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Michelle Brown CONCEPT DIRECTOR

Andrew Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

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FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM. © 2017 FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE, A UBM® PUBLICATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. UBM AMERICAS, 2 PENN PLAZA, FLOOR 15, NEW YORK, NY 10121. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ADVERTISERS’ CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 20, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

T H E S H I R T M A K E R S I N C E 19 2 8

NEW LOOK, NEW FEEL!

Fall is upon us, and we’re all beginning to think about how we want to look and feel for the season. A crop of cozy sweaters, rich fabrics, soft knits, warm outerwear and more fill the floor at Hubert White—we invite you to come into the store to check out the new selections! What else is new in our little world here in downtown Minneapolis? I came up with an extensive and impressive list, although it’s probably incomplete. First and foremost, the “substantially completed” (their words, not ours) Nicollet Mall. It took quite a while, but it sure does look nice! We have a newly remodeled Target, an as-yet unnamed restaurant across the street, a Dayton’s building that is being prepared for a new life, and more new and old restaurants and merchants along the mall now that it’s finally back in business! (Check out some renderings of the project on page 9.) At the south end of the Mall we have a major community development at Westminster Church, and a little further down there’s the new Walker Sculpture Garden. Other significant happenings in our city include: • The return of major sporting events as we host the upcoming Super Bowl. (It will be a new feel for us… unless, of course, our Minnesota Twins make it to the World Series first!) • Our new soccer team, the Minnesota United. (Yes I know they’re across the River, but we can all claim them as ours.) • The new Gopher football coach, P.J. Fleck, bringing energy back to the team. • The newly remodeled Target Center for the Timberwolves, and a newly “remodeled” team to go with it. And don’t forget about Hubert White! We’ve just entered a new century of business, having been founded by my grandfather over 100 years ago in 1916. As you will see on pages 6 and 7 of this issue, we have a new store manager in Kevin Luedke, and Zach Allen will be taking his place as our footwear manager. Not to worry; we didn’t get carried away with all this new stuff. Brad Sherman isn’t going anywhere, Kevin is just going to be making his life a little simpler. Whatever draws you to our store this season–our fabulous new offerings, knowledgeable staff, the new Nicollet Mall, or your desire just to say hi–we look forward to seeing you in our shop. Happy fall, Bob White P.S. – Please visit hubertwhite.com to check out our blogs on men’s style, produced by our own Matt White!

Kevin Luedke Store Manager

Q You are under the age of 30. How long have you been working in the menswear business? A

I am currently in my seventh year in the menswear business. I began working at Neiman Marcus while I was a full-time student. When Neiman’s closed I made the transition to Hubert White, where I became the footwear manager for four years before becoming the store manager.

Q You are a graduate of the Minneapolis Institute of the Arts. How has this education impacted your new job as the store manager A

at Hubert White? There are a lot of similarities between the menswear business and graphic design. The goal in either field is to have your final product look its best. My education has given me the tools to be a project manager, have a great eye for detail and an overall understanding of aesthetics.

Q How did Neiman Marcus prep you for your job as a store manager? A I had an opportunity to work with the world’s most luxurious brands and learn from some of the industry’s best. I was presented with an opportunity to develop an understanding of what was necessary to have a successful menswear business.

Q You had an opportunity to see Hubert White from a different perspective when you managed the footwear department. Was A

that a positive when you made the transition to store manager? Having this perspective was definitely a positive. The menswear business is built on relationships. Having worked in the footwear department prior to being the store manager gave me an opportunity to build relationships with not only our clients, but also the Hubert White team.

Q What immediate impact do you want to have on the store? A Q What are your long-range goals for the store and the staff? A Q Your next great meal is going to be where? A Q What is your next “binge watch” television series? A I want to continue to expand on our reputation of being a menswear store that provides our customers with quality product and excellent service.

This is an easy one! My long-range goal for Hubert White is to nurture the growth of the business as the store begins its second century.

Minneapolis is filled with great restaurants. My favorites include Spoon & Stable and 112. However, the next great meal will be had at Bellecour in Wayzata.

I’ve always been a fan of the USA show Suits. The clothing is spot on and could be an inspiration for guys at any age. However, the next “binge watch” is HBO’s Billions.

Q You have a background in golf and private golf clubs. What was that experience like and how has it affected

Zach Allen

A Q What was it like to live in the Evans Scholars House at the University of Minnesota? A Q Have you ever had a hole-in-one? A Q Best golf course you have ever played? A Q You are a budding video producer. What’s that all about? A who you are today?

I worked at Bearpath Golf and Country Club for 10 years. I now realize that you have to pay to play golf. Just a tragedy.

Best experience of my life, hands down. Very blessed to be a part of such a wonderful scholarship. (Thanks Chick.)

No... overrated. A double-eagle is much more impressive, but I haven’t had one of those either.

Interlachen Country Club.

I have a side-hustle. My brother and I started an extremely successful video production business. Shoot me an email zallen@bluelogo.co. (Yes .co, we couldn’t afford the .com.)

Q wit What do you bring to Hubert White (beyond your well-known and humor)? A My IT skills are pretty good. I ran IT for the Evans Scholars House. I also think my video production will become an asset for our social media. I have spent the last 10 years of my life interacting with very successful people. I enjoyed being a caddie and look forward to continuing those relationships.

Q What do you like to do most when you are not working? A Q What are your top three classic rock bands? A Q Will Jordan Spieth break Jack Nicklaus’ record of 19 majors? A

Golfing, listening to late-’60s/early-’70s rock, respectful political discourse and spending time with family.

Rolling Stones, Creedence Clearwater Revival and Led Zeppelin.

Everyone thought Tiger had a lock on breaking Jack’s record. Jordan has won three majors (as of this interview). Jordan is a great player but the competition is just too tough. Ask me again when he has the same amount as Tiger (14).

Footwear Manager

Handcrafted in Chicago Since 1916

~ The New Nicollet ~

We’re Going to Make it After All. “Substantially complete” November 2017

Whatever “substantially complete” means, we can't wait for the new Nicollet. And we are excited to be a part of all that is Super Bowl in early 2018. Plan some downtown time soon and check out the brand-new Nicollet Mall.

Each block of the new Nicollet will have its own, unique theme. We are most excited for our side of the street between 8th and 7th Streets, where a remarkable light bridge is being installed that will reflect the sidewalk below. We look forward to seeing your reflection soon!

Rendering of completed project just outside the Hubert White store

ASK

fall 2017 fashion tips for him

We’d recommend one perfect deconstructed blue blazer (it doesn’t have to be navy; there are various new shades of blue) and one subtle plaid sport coat to pair with casual pants (or jeans) and sneakers. What makes a sport coat modern these days is fine performance fabrics, light canvas construction, interesting details and an attitude of nonchalance. There’s also an ineffable characteristic known as “expression,” which refers to the uncontrived way a tailored garment drapes and hits the body. Other things to note: modern fit is body-skimming but not tight, slightly shorter in the arm and body length but not extreme. Come into the store and we’ll help you figure out which models are most flattering for you.

Although everyone seems Q: to be doing it, buying clothes online does not feel quite right to me. Am I crazy? No, you’re not crazy: there’s nothing more satisfying than working in person with a professional style advisor who knows your taste, your body type and your budget, and can therefore help you look your best. But did you know that there are numerous ways you can use technology to enhance

your in-store shopping experience? You can pre-shop collections on our website to save time when you arrive in store. You can email, text or chat with your style advisor to ask questions or set up appointments, in store or at home. You can click through the many fabulous collections on our website and reserve items for in-store shopping. Bottom line: digital support is not intended to circumvent your style advisor, but rather to enhance and improve your in-store shopping experience. Take advantage of it and look better than ever before.

Sneakers seem to be Q: everywhere, but I think they look ridiculous with suits and sport coats. So what should I wear on my feet? Sorry to disagree, but we love sneakers worn with suits and sport coats, especially many of the newer styles that are clearly not meant for the gym! That said, there are numerous other non-sneaker options this fall, including chukka boots for an outdoorsy look, burnished leather laceups for a dressier look and classic loafers for something in between. Another tip: choose neutral shades of brown, which pair perfectly with both navy and gray clothing (and are appropriate with everything but formalwear).

IMAGE COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN

I don’t wear suits too often anymore but would like to buy a few cool sport coats for fall. What specifically do you suggest?

Nature is full of infinite causes Leonardo da Vinci

FASHION FORUM

the

READY, SET, SLALOM!

f you see someone heading down the slopes this winter on skis like nothing you’ve ever seen before, you’re not hallucinating. Pirelli Motorsport and Blossom, a leader in handmade high-performance skis, have partnered to create a remarkable pair of limitededition skis. They feature the iconic stretched P logo on top, an invisible layer of vibration-dampening rubber inserted by Pirelli into the sandwich construction, a double layer of Titanal for stability, and triaxial fiberglass for perfect torsion. The end result is a ski that provides excellent performance on narrow and sweeping turns due to improved fluidity and accuracy, as well as outstanding stability. —BSL

SPRING FEVER!

HE BLUE US AWAY

Although the leaves have barely turned, it’s never too soon to think spring! Fresh from the recent Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence and the runways in Milan, here are our top 10 men’s fashion trends for spring ’18:

While he wore the crown as King of Rock ‘n’ Roll somewhat uneasily, there’s little question that Elvis Presley was an extraordinarily talented and legendarily charismatic entertainer. Now, photographer Thom Gilbert has created an intimate look at the culture he created and the legacy he left behind in Blue Suede Shoes (Glitterati Books). The tome is more than a mere visual biography; he smartly pairs personal anecdotes from 75 of Elvis' friends, fellow musicians and fans with portraits of the people whose lives he touched and the objects and artifacts he left behind, including his unforgettable gold lamé jacket and instantly recognizable white jumpsuit. Viva Elvis, indeed! —BSL

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Happy whimsical prints on shirts and swimwear Variations on the banded collar shirt Shorter, wider trousers; shorts for leisure and business Bold stripes in both suits and sportswear Bucket hats, retro shades, lapel pins, bandanas, crossbody fanny packs 6. Open-knit sweaters in linen and linen blends 7. Modified double-breasted suits and sport coats that can be worn open 8. A return to classic footwear, including tassels, monk straps and loafers 9. Mixing active influences with soft tailoring 10. Lightweight, light-color suits with bold accents —KAG

FASHION FORUM

the

Few names carry the same weight in the world of fashion as Cristóbal Balenciaga, even 45 years after his death. A master of construction and design, the legendary Spanish couturier forever changed the clothing that women wear. In Shaping Fashion, now at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum, viewers can gaze upon over 100 pieces crafted by Balenciaga, including iconic ensembles made for Ava Gardner, dresses and hats belonging to socialite Gloria Guinness, and various pieces worn by one of the world's wealthiest women, Mona von Bismarck, along with work by his former protégées (such as André Courrèges and Emanuel Ungaro) and contemporary fashion designers working in the same innovative tradition, from J.W. Anderson to Nicolas Ghesquière. As an added bonus, the exhibition features a collaboration with X-ray artist Nick Veasey and a digital pattern-making project with the London College of Fashion, both of which reveal the hidden details that helped make Balenciaga's work so exceptional. —BSL VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

CECIL BEATON STUDIO ARCHIVE AT SOTHEBY’S

LOOK INTO MY CRISTOBAL

A DRIVE FOR GREATNESS

What could make one of the world’s most luxurious automobiles even more coveted? British car manufacturer Rolls-Royce appears to have come up with an ingenious answer: collaborate with nine of Britain’s most revered musicians on a series of bespoke, limited-edition Wraith cars. Among the artists who are taking part in this extra-special partnership are Ronnie Wood (of the Rolling Stones), Sir Ray Davies (of the Kinks), Dame Shirley Bassey and Giles Martin (son of George Martin, the socalled fifth Beatle). Bear in mind: these one-of-a-kind vehicles are more than beautiful objects or even great investments. Rolls-Royce is donating a portion of each car's value to charities selected by the musicians. It’s a win-win-win that should be music to any automobile lover’s ears. —BSL

PROFILE

swedish

STYLE

“I would tell my American friends to consider the fit of everything they wear: not too long, too wide, or too boxy.” — Eton creative director Sebastian Dollinger

The story behind the world’s greatest shirt.

BY L E S L E Y RU B E NS T E I N

that Team Eton has for its product and company. “Quality, service, sustainability and responsibility—these are the backbone of everything we do. We want customers to experience the feeling, to understand the heritage, to know that we care about more than product. We are a human company, with a commitment to the customer, the employee and the environment,” shares Davidson. In the design and production part of the presentation, retailers touched a sample of the exceptional cotton used in the making of the shirts. Eton is known for its high-quality fabrics in varied textures and weights as well as for its durability, impeccable styling and array of color options. But it is Eton’s crease-resistant finish that makes the shirts stand out. “The performance of the shirt is what separates it from its competitors,” explains Davidson. “Wash it, put it on, and 15 minutes later the wrinkles are gone.” Unlike most brands, all of Eton’s patterns and fabrics are designed in-house, ensuring exclusivity. White and light blue dress shirts remain the company’s bread and butter, but colors and prints are increasingly popular. For every Eton collection, designers create up to 100 different fabrics. Coupled with different color stitching, buttons and placket trims, there are 600 to 700 variations. Factor in the fit options (classic, contemporary, slim, super-slim) and various collar

t was a difficult time to feed six children during the 1920s Depression. Annie and David Pettersson sat at their kitchen table in Ganghester, Sweden, trying to figure out how to support their family now that the mill was closed. They owned a sewing machine and started crafting dresses for friends, but soon realized that men’s shirts were less seasonal and thus more profitable. Their philosophy was to provide finished shirts to their customers only when perfect. This venture was the genesis of Eton shirts, renowned worldwide for their quality, creativity, performance and fit. Sold in more than 40 countries, Eton continues to expand into new markets based on the Petterssons’ original high standards. Eighty-nine years later, grandson and Eton CEO Hans Davidson and his dynamic team sit at a conference table in Stockholm with top American menswear merchants to discuss the Eton brand at an intensive three-day Eton College experience. In addition to the “academic” portion of the trip, Eton showcased Sweden’s culinary scene, culture and history by hosting meals at landmark restaurants and guiding tours of the historic districts of Gothenburg and Stockholm. Still, the highlight for most was experiencing firsthand the excitement, commitment and passion

and cuff choices, and the collection literally features a few thousand styles! According to Eton creative director Sebastian Dollinger, fit is the secret to dressing well. “I would tell my American friends to consider the fit of everything they wear. It’s important to wear clothes that are not too long, too wide, or too boxy. The average American man wears his clothes on the wide side, whereas many Europeans wear clothes too tight. It would be great to have a happy medium.” For the 2018 Eton collections, designs are inspired by Dollinger’s recent travels, especially the brightly colored houses in Puerto Rico, beautiful tiles from Portugal, Dreams of Persia and Persian carpets, and various locales in Japan. On Eton’s unique corporate culture, Davidson maintains that employees need an inspiring environment to succeed. “People should be proud of where they work, whether it’s the boardroom or the warehouse.” In fact, thanks to a multitude

Bob White (left) with Eton’s CEO Hans Davidson.

shirt. This machine was built in-house in the 1950s to flip the shirt collars inside out and create perfect points. In fact, virtually everything at Eton mirrors the company’s philosophy of transparency and openness. Davidson says he’s tried to create an environment where his people are not scared to say anything, where they’re free to think, to challenge and to create. “We’re all striving for excellence in everything we do. I like to say that I’m the conductor of an orches-

“My favorite part of the trip was being able to spend time with Team Eton. Their passion, vision and team spirit are an inspiration.” B O B WHI T E, HU B ERT WHI T E of windows, the environment at Eton is all natural light and tree-filled views. Indoors, plants and wooden furniture abound. Another highlight is the cantina: employees eat in a bright, spacious room or dine outside on a covered patio. It’s a gathering place, and a place of community for Eton associates (that once served as a restaurant for the neighbors). Although thousands of boxes are stored and moved in and out of the warehouse, this facility is immaculate. The warehouse was built with windows on all sides so light streams through. To enhance working conditions, the building was made to preclude echoes. Companies throughout Scandinavia view this structure as a model warehouse; many visit the facility to observe its construction and design before building their own. Another Eton hallmark is its unique conveyer system, created years ago to keep up with demand as the company expanded into new markets. The automated system is built on the ceiling to move the shirts to each work station. This proprietary “Eton System” not only transformed the company but is now sold to other companies in various industries. Another unique invention: a folding machine allowing employees to perfectly package the finished

tra, but I can’t play all the instruments myself.” Thus, Davidson’s philosophy of making his employees part of the process. When there’s a reorganization in staffing, Eton lets its employees help decide where they’d like to work. “We see what their talent is, what they are burning for, and then we talk,” says Davidson. “In this way, employees grow and we see much innovation.” Just as Eton feels a responsibility to its customers and employees, they continually strive to honor the environment. “Taking care of nature is just something we do,” says Davidson. For example, the finishing process of the shirts is environmentally friendly. “We want the water to be the same after we’ve used it as it was before we started,” he says. It also comes down to details: covers for employees’ iPads are made from recycled materials, boxes in the warehouse are reused multiple times and ultimately recycled, a specially outfitted bicycle is used to transport boxes from the factory to the warehouse. “I’m very proud of what my grandfather, father and family have accomplished,” sums up Davidson. “But I’m equally proud of my amazing associates who are open, hardworking, creative and kind. This, more than the balance sheet, is the essence of the Eton company.”

FABRICS

COMMANDING PERFORMANCE Or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Suit (Again). BY TOM MASTRONARDI

decade or so ago, “performance fabric” meant that an enterprising menswear manufacturer added stretch to enhance comfort, perhaps Teflon to boost stain resistance, or a quick chemical dip to protect against wrinkling. Flash forward to today. The modern man lives a speed-of-light lifestyle, complicated by

climate change, confounded by cranky, cramped business travel. Yet his suits must carry him from day into evening with stylish aplomb. Fortunately, research and development has spurred impressive innovation in even the most traditional luxury fabrics, delivering elegant tailored clothing that performs like its casual brethren. But all that flex and fortitude can’t trump the single, immutable reality: Suits and tailored sportswear must still possess covetable curb appeal. “Customers care first about the look of the fabric—

Smart fabrics transition from city to country with ease and style.

IMAGES COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN, ETON

performance is the ‘cherry on top,’” says Arnold Brant

Silverstone, president and chief creative officer of Samuelsohn/Hickey

dim memory. Eton’s North American sales director, Chris Donohue,

Freeman, one of the earliest (and most successful) adopters of luxury

believes that quality is the key. “We employ more quality control people

performance tailoring.

than design team members,” he shares.

In 2011, Samuelsohn partnered with Loro Piana, one of Italy’s premier fabric mills, to introduce a proprietary fabric called Extreme, and more recently with Colombo to launch a revolutionary

That rigor, in tandem with the company’s commitment to the exclusive

Luxury yarns use of extra-long staple cotton, informs its approach to innovation. ELS, are the key to Robert Talbott’s high-performing fabrics.

luxurious fabric called Ice Wool, which is subjected to repeated thermic shock during the manufacturing process. This naturally seals the fibers, resulting in greater resilience, a far more supple texture and enhanced color clarity. Ice Wool helps maintain an optimal body microclimate and offers exceptional water and stain resistance, all while maintaining the luxurious feeling of super-fine 150s wool. Ermenegildo Zegna offers its super-fine (and aptly named) “High Performance” fabric in a collection of suits and jackets, all of which are defined by high-twist yarns that render the cloth exceptionally resistant to creasing and create a satisfyingly springy-yet-soft hand and a remarkably lightweight character: notably

“Performance fabrics are more and more important in our

characterized by extra-fine and long fibers that result in durable yarns

collection, in both clothing and sportswear. We have

and elegant shirt fabrics, constitutes only 3% of the world’s cotton, yet

comfortable, packable and ideal for travel. anali, too, offers a mashup of luxury and innovation.

believed in the attributes of performance for some time,

accounts for 100% of the fabric used by Eton. The brand also employs a

and it is even more relevant today,” explains Giorgio Canali, director of

“textile genius” who joined the in-house team three years ago from the

Americas. The Canali collection features a pure cashmere field jacket,

venerable fabric mill Gruppo Albini. Although the company does not tout

distinguished by a “wave” effect achieved through the synthesis of two

“no iron,” Donohue is justifiably proud of the proprietary process that

traditional techniques. The first is “carding,” where the cloth is brushed

“changed the molecular structure to create a smoother, flatter, more

using natural thistles, creating the visual “wave.” Then, hot metal

wrinkle-free surface of cloth.”

cylinders are used to press the cloth, and finally the fabric is submerged

Mark Calder, creative director at Robert Talbott, believes in natural

in a hot fixing bath, which sets the pattern. The undulating result is

performance enabled not by technical synthetic yarns, but instead

visually compelling, with a hand reminiscent of fine sable fur.

through weave and construction. “For us, the only way to exceptional

The ascendance of performance tailoring has not gone unnoticed by

fabric is a commitment to luxury yarns. Our luxe fabrics continue to be

purveyors of some of the world’s finest fabrics. Dougal Munro, president

based upon Sea Island and Egyptian cottons, silk, super-fine merino wool,

of Holland & Sherry, which has supplied tailors and luxury brands with

cashmere and linen; we are grounded in that sensibility.”

cloth since 1836, notes that the firm hasn’t hesitated to enter into this

And in a global culture where “green” is not just the color of money, all

game: “We offer a range of fine cottons with 2% Elastane, which results in

the companies we spoke to assert that the objective is to leave an

8% to 10% of physical stretch for an elevated level of comfort. Beyond that,

invisible ecological footprint in their wake. It’s an ethos probably

our AquArret wool is water repellent and offers superior stain protection

summarized best by Eton: “For us, high quality equals sustainability... the

through a process that employs micro encapsulated nano-particles rather

first step to a more sustainable clothing industry is to promote durable

than Teflon; it remains viable for about eight cleanings.”

and timeless products.”

Dress shirts may have been the Founding Fathers of the performance

We’ll leave the last word to Silverstone, who rather adroitly sums up

fabric movement, offering wash-and-wear or no-iron options as far back

the prevailing sentiment: “If you can do luxury, and have it perform, what

as the 1950s, but the days of stiff polyester and toxic formaldehyde are a

could be better?”

MAK IN G A G R A N D EN T R A N C E

UP DO WN DRESSING

DRESSING

WHETHER YOU’RE HEADED OUT FOR A BIG NIGHT ON THE TOWN OR SOMETHING A BIT MORE CASUAL, A LITTLE DRAMA GOES A LONG WAY TOWARD MAKING YOUR LOOK — AND THE EVENING — UNFORGETTABLE.

PHOTOGRAPHER SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR | MAKEUP BERNADINE BIBIANO WARDROBE WENDY MCNETT

MAKE the WORLD YOUR STAGE

LOSE YOURSELF in Fabulous Fall Textures

B R U N E L LO C U C I N E L L I

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

PT01

TRASK

EMBRACE TRADITION, But Make it Your Own

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA & CANALI

I S A I A & B R U N E L LO C U C I N E L L I

CHANNEL a BYGONE ERA

Be BOLD Be FEARLESS Be DASHING

Build your wardrobe on a foundation of neutral classics, adding a few fresh pieces each season. Modern styling will keep you looking cool and current year after year.

FA L L I CONS P H O T O G R A P H E R Shane LaVancher F A S H I O N D I R E C T O R Michael Fusco P R O D U C E R Jillian LaRochelle S T Y L I N G A S S I S T A N T Leah Snow G R O O M E R Jojo McCarthy M O D E L Joe Weir for Wilhelmina

1 ELEVENTY COAT, FAHERTY SHIRT, RHONE JOGGER, LANVIN SNEAKER

THE JOGGER

This pant is the newest must-have in every manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe: sleek, comfy and wearable in more ways than one. Elevate your look with a rich camel coat and luxe suede sneakers.

THE WOOL PANT

Neutral-color patterns are surprisingly versatile and so much more exciting than basic black. Wear with a texture on top to stand out from the crowd.

HARRIS WHARF COAT, FAHERTY SWEATER AND THERMAL, PT01 TROUSER, TO BOOT NEW YORK BOOT

THE OVERCOAT

CREDIT INFO ISAIA COAT, ETON SHIRT, ELEVENTY PANT

For your next outerwear investment, pick a print, then make it pop against lightcolored solids. A three-quarter length works over your suits and sport coats, yet it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t look silly with denim (like your long black dress coat does).

THE SNAPFRONT SHIRT

ELEVENTY

Long considered a casual cold-weather staple, why not try this quilted piece between your shirt and sport coat? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an extra layer of warmth, and style.

ELEVENTY SPORT COAT, VEST AND BRACELETS, FAHERTY THERMAL, PT01 TROUSER, TO BOOT NEW YORK BOOT

THE BOOT In a broken-in, burnished leather, this style can be dressed up or down. Cuff your pants to show them off, or better yet: put your feet up and relax awhile.

GIFTS SANITOV E-CARGO BIKE From London-based Danish designer Alexander Host comes this stylish and practical commuter alternative (perfect for the beach house), already popular with celebs like Liev Schreiber and Kate Winslet. The SCB+ model links past and future with built-in smart functions like app-friendly GPS tracking and a hidden motor for hills or heavy loads (up to a whopping 440 pounds). Kid-friendly add-ons like a shaded cover and seat belts are available for safe, comfy rides. $3,400.

ultimate LUXURIES

We’re all about products and experiences that take your life to the next level. Here are some ways to elevate the everyday, with a touch of style. BY RO B ERT HAY NES -PET ERSO N

PLAYERS CHAMPIONSHIP PLAYERS CLUB

NOBLE AUDIO PRESTIGE

Enjoy one of the world’s top golf tournaments on a whole new level with the first package of its kind offered on the PGA Tour. Membership scores a weekly (Tuesday through Championship Sunday) VIP ticket to TPC Sawgrass (Ponte Vedra Beach, Florida) in May. The details for 2018 were still being finalized at press time, but sample perks include daily access to the TPC Sawgrass Clubhouse and luxury viewing suites along the 17th and 18th holes. Award-winning chefs and bartenders provide endless food and drink each day, and members receive a $500 gift card and private custom fittings at the pro shop. $5,000 per ticket.

Noble Audio has transformed in-ear headphones into high-tech, customizable pieces of art. The California-based manufacturer earned its stripes designing in-ear monitors for professional musicians. Their Prestige line is crafted from exotic woods and other materials, while still offering deep sounds, multiple drivers and precision forms. “Amboyna Burl” earbuds evoke the finest dashboard in a Bentley, or a classic 3-wood. “Spalted Tamarind” includes watch gears embedded in the varnish. Each style is distinctive and a definite conversation starter (if you’re willing to remove them). Starting at $2,800.

LEICA M10

EASYPOSE YOGA Wouldn’t it be nice if the yoga studio came to you, whenever you wanted? Now it can: this online/app-based startup from founder Ruben Dia allows you to customize one-hour sessions in your home, yard, beach, pool or office. Choose from a wide range of styles, experience levels and local certified instructors (California and the New York Tri-State area so far, but expanding) and you’ll be striking a Downward Dog within the hour. Like Uber, users rate instructors and provide feedback for others. Starting at $80 per session.

The 2017 release of this high-end M-system camera brings together a lot of features of both favorite Leica analog and digital series into one elegant package. The 10 improves the M-series’ ergonomics, plus offers an enlarged field-of-view rangefinder, expanded menu for sorting files, integrated WiFi connectivity, and a new 24 MP, full-frame CMOS sensor unique to this model, improving all aspects of image performance. Most importantly, it still looks like the coolest digital camera on the block. $6,895.

PLUM WINE STORAGE

BODUM GOLD COFFEE PRESS Not every refined experience needs to cost an arm and a leg. This limited-edition golden Chambord Press from Bodum celebrates the company’s 50th anniversary. While it’s not crafted from actual gold, the dual coating process and bakelite handle ensures this sturdy press pot will wake you up with a touch of glam, even after you throw it in the dishwasher. $59.

Bring home the tech high-end bars and restaurants have been using to serve individual glasses of expensive wine without having to pour the entire bottle in one sitting. Plum attractively stores any standard 750ml wine bottle and its double-cored needle penetrates any closure without removing the foil. A replaceable argon gas canister, good for 200 bottles, injects gas into the remaining bottle space, preserving your wine at the exact temperature you prefer. Meanwhile, the integrated HD camera identifies the bottle label, varietal, vintage and region, and displays on the front. Pour a little, pour a lot: your favorite wine stays ready for another evening. $1,500.

GINSTITUTE / THE DISTILLERY London has witnessed a resurgence of gin distilleries after more than a century without a new one. The creators of Portobello Road Gin have opted out of the traditional visitors’ center for an immersive experience dubbed “The Distillery.” Stay in one of three recently opened bespoke guest rooms (located in trendy Notting Hill), dine at Gintonica, a Spanish-influenced bar/restaurant, and top it off with masterclasses at The Ginstitute: a popular tour, cocktail class and opportunity to make your own custom gin recipe (which you can reorder online once you’ve quaffed the first bottle). From £60 to £120.

WINE

futures

TENSE

Welcome to the world of Bordeaux wine futures.

BY RO BE RT H AY N ES - P ET ERSO N

iving into any investment market—art, cars, Air Jordans—can be intimidating to a newcomer. Such is the case with Bordeaux wine futures, where participants buy into a vintage from a specific winery while it’s still aging in barrels, years before they can drink it. “There’s a perception that it’s only associated with four-digit wines and that you need to go big, investing a significant amount of money,” says Mary Gorman-McAdams, master of wine and North America market adviser for Bordeaux wines. “The reality is you can buy futures at all levels, particularly with vintages after 2014.” Though the concept of “wine futures” (or en-primeurs) began in Bordeaux some 200 years ago, securing the best wines of the region for negotiants (middle-man merchants), the modern version only became available to private collectors in the 1980s as a means of securing up-front cash for the region’s growers and vintners. “It made economic sense,” says Gorman-McAdams, “before the top wines were priced like they are now. Today it’s kind of a speculation sport.” The reality is, just as with art, there are many reasons to buy into a barrel of wine. But it’s important to know what you’re doing and why. Here are a few hints and tips from the experts: FIND A REPUTABLE MERCHANT: “In the past,” says Hortense Bernard, general manager of Millesima, USA, a French-owned, NYC-based wine merchant and one of the five largest buyers of Bordeaux Futures, “disreputable companies would sell wine they didn’t actually have, then use that money to buy wines for other clients.” (Think Ponzi scheme.) She recommends seeking out a company that has been successfully working with futures for many years and can satisfactorily answer any questions. DO YOUR RESEARCH: “Regardless of what price point you’re dabbling in,” says Gorman-McAdams, “read about the wines, get a feel for the vintage, find what’s written about the previous vintage and the producers.” KNOW WHAT YOU WANT: Perhaps you seek a piece of the hard-to-get Château Margaux first growth at a bargain for investment (prices for futures are almost always less than once the wine is bottled), but perhaps you just really like French wine. “In Europe, especially, I see more and more everyday wine selling on the futures market,” says Bernard.

“I will have customers buy the same brand each year, just because they like it.” Gorman-McAdams agrees: “Looking back at inexpensive wines from 2010, I think, ‘Why didn’t I buy a case or two of that?’” Others buy into vintages that mark anniversaries or other celebrations. LEARN THE CALENDAR: Part of what makes the Bordeaux futures game both fun and challenging is the time-sensitive nature of each release. Excitement builds in the fall, when that year’s harvest enters the barrels, but it’s spring when the fun begins, with En-Primeurs Week bringing thousands of wine professionals and journalists to Bordeaux to try the latest vintage and report their impressions. By mid-July, the prices have been set. VINTAGE IS KEY: Each year’s sale reflects the previous year’s harvest, and Bordeaux is a region especially susceptible to weather extremes. But there’s another reason to know whether 2017 was a good year or bad: “I will tell some customers during a really good vintage to go with secondary labels, because the wines will be a really good investment,” says Bernard. “When it’s a smaller vintage, you’re better going with first growth wines.” IT’S OKAY TO NERD OUT: “When people come to us, one thing that’s very important to them is provenance, that the wines are in their original cases,” says Bernard. It’s akin to collectors of action figures wanting their possessions “mint-in-box.”

TOP AND CENTER IMAGES COURTESY OF MILLESIMA USA, BOTTOM IMAGE COURTESY OF BORDEAUX WINE COUNCIL

The reality is, just as with art, there are many reasons to buy into a barrel of wine. But it’s important to know what you’re doing and why.

Balance. Substance. Finesse. Spell Estate is committed to delivering cellar-worthy Pinot Noir, RosĂŠ and Chardonnay. Experience the integrity and beauty of the varietals...just as they were intended.

SPELLWINECLUB.COM

ÂŠ 2017 spell

TRAVEL One of many ocean vistas to take in along California’s Pacific Coast Highway.

Maui’s tropical rainforest.

ROAD

Hit the

Forget the “friendly” skies and feel the earth move under your tires.

BY S H I RA L E VI NE

here’s freedom in witnessing the world from behind the wheel. No security. No schedules. No shared seats. When you’re road tripping, the decisions are yours to make. Check out these jaunts near and far to discover hidden treasures that can only be found on land.

T H E ALL-AM E R IC AN D R I V E

The Journey: Mendocino to Orange County in California The Distance: Nearly 656 miles What You’ll See: Glittery coastline dotted with idyllic beaches, coves and tide pools, undulating cliffs flanking dramatic curves, vineyards, farmland and a storied castle. The winding stretch of US Highway 1 known as the Pacific Coast Highway is divided into three very different regions: Southern, Central and Northern California. Pit stop options abound, from Carmel, Morro Bay and Pismo Beach to Hearst Castle, San Luis Obispo and Big Sur. SoCal’s beaches aren’t to be missed either. There’s Malibu, Santa Monica and Venice—just to name a few. (visitcalifornia.com) Pro Tip: Book a retreat. Esalen, with its clothing-optional healing cliffside hot springs, has reopened. Other famed favorites include Shasta Abbey, Tassajara and San Ysidro Ranch. (esalen.org, shastaabbey.org, sfzc.org/tassajara, sanysidroranch.com)

Amazing Alternative: From Santa Barbara, island hop “the Galapagos Islands of the North,” aka the Channel Islands. Once inhabited by the Chumash people, visitors now populate Anacapa’s sea grottoes, bio-diverse Santa Rosa and campsite-heavy Santa Cruz Island. (sierraclub.org)

ROA D TO HA NA The Journey: Kahului to Kipahulu in Maui, Hawaii The Distance: 64.4 miles What You’ll See: Along Maui’s winding, narrow north shore highway are 59 bridges connecting the tropical rainforest. Cruise by taro patches, seascapes, waterfall pools, botanical gardens and some very huggable rainbow eucalyptus trees. Designated the Hana Millennium Legacy Trail, the route along highway 36 is best driven roof down, music up and accompanied by the Road to Hana GyPSy Guide app ($4.99). (roadtohana.com) Pro Tip: Careful! One part of the highway alone has 620 curves. Amazing Alternative: A less meandering route is the drive to the Mt. Haleakala crater. Guides suggest departing at an absurdly early hour to catch the sunrise, but even better is the sunset—just bring a jacket as it’s freezing up there. Adventure junkies: cycle down with Bike Maui from the 10,000-foot summit for a 26-mile descent to the ocean in Paia. (nps.gov/hale, bikemaui.com)

Castles and ruins abound in Wales

Natural stone arch in Los Cabos, Mexico.

SO UT H O F T HE BOR D ER The Journey: Tijuana to Los Cabos in Mexico The Distance: 1,100 miles What You’ll See: Within a single peninsula lies Mexico’s Highway 1, featuring a dramatic, transformative visual change from azure bays to a seemingly endless expanse of tumbleweeded desert. Witness the gray whale migration from December through April. Year-round check out the Cochimi Indian caves adorned with petroglyphs, fancy vineyards and gut-busting gastronomy ranging from two-taqueria towns to epicurean hotspots. There’s the real Hotel California, the kite-surfing mecca of La Ventana, 17th-century missions, and beaches with names like Lover’s and Divorce. The finale? The iconic natural stone arch that connects the Pacific Ocean with the Sea of Cortez. (bajainsider.com) Pro Tip: Avoid crossing one of the busiest borders in the world by car. Rent your vehicle in Tijuana to ensure Mexican insurance and other local paperwork. (cabaja.com) Amazing Alternative: Roll off the highway via motorcycle to take the interior dirt roads where mountains, waterfalls, pools and hot springs replace cactus and coastline. (bajaride.com)

AC ROSS T HE P ON D The Journey: Around the isle of Wales The Distance: Options vary What You’ll See: Literature and cinema have long depicted the romantic melancholy of the English countryside. But Wales is no longer a coal mining, industrial nucleus; rather it’s an awe-inspiring serrated coastline comprising lush greenery and shining sun. Pro Tip: Trade four wheels for two and saddle up with South

Wales’ Drover Cycles. Pedal through the homeland of the Joneses (Catherine Zeta and Tom), where royal real estate dominates given the area’s sheer volume of regal fortresses. There’s a lot of stone to cover, but fortunately there are 2,000 km of National Cycle Network paths. The 20.5-mile cycle from folksy-chic Abergavenny to the famed Hay-on-Wye will take you through the sheep-littered Black Mountains. Then climb to Gospel Pass: a fairytale-like spot 549 meters above sea level ending in a steep, speedy drop. Further southwest is Pembrokeshire, where a ride along the 186-mile coastal path offers harbour seal sightings. Amazing Alternative: In Pembrokeshire stay at Preseli Venture’s eco lodge to experience the Welsh sport of coasteering. Outfitted in freezing-water wetsuits, guided groups scramble in and out of the water, grabbing onto rock formations, swimming into caves and jumping off cliffs. (drover.cc, preseliventure.co.uk)

ROCKY MOUNTAIN, HO ! The Journey: Banff to Jasper in Alberta, Canada The Distance: 147 miles What You’ll See: Some seriously epic topography. Think jagged ranges with pristine mountain lakes (Peyto, Bow and Waterfowl are among the best). Waterfalls? There’s Panther, Tangle and Athabasca. To journey across the Icefields Parkway is to pass sweeping valleys and vast wooded wilderness, winding through the heart of the Rocky Mountains. Don’t miss the Canadian treasures that are Banff and Jasper National Parks. (icefieldsparkway.ca) Pro Tip: Take a hike! The Athabasca and Saskatchewan glaciers have guided alpine jaunts over moraines and up summit ridges. Star-seekers should note that Jasper is home to the impressive Dark Sky Preserve—just beware of grizzly and black bears! (jasperdarksky.travel) Amazing Alternative: Forgo the highway and travel by rail aboard the Rocky Mountaineer. The Vancouver to Banff sojourn chugs through the Continental Divide and more. (rockymountaineer.com)

WHEELS Moke America is the new fashion must-have! BY DAVI D A . ROSE

driving

NOSTALGIA

hat do Brigitte Bardot, Paul McCartney, The Beach Boys and Princess Margaret have in common? They all loved a small utility vehicle called the Mini Moke. In fact, in the ’60s and ’70s, numerous celebrities could be spotted driving these iconic cars around the French Riviera and other resort areas worldwide. James Bond even drove Mini Mokes in You Only Live Twice, Live and Let Die, The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker. (Of course, his other car was usually an Aston Martin, a Lotus or a Jaguar.) After a few decades out of production, the legendary Mokes are back, now offered with electric engines and power steering. The new Moke looks identical to the original, but with its modern updates, options and safety features, it’s the perfect modern-day beach buggy (available with automatic or manual transmission). Todd Rome, president and founder of private jet firm Blue Star Jets, has acquired the rights to produce Mokes for the USA and has already seen excellent sales. “As I travel abroad, I see the Moke in St. Tropez, St. Barth’s, Monte Carlo and throughout the Caribbean,” says Rome. “I’ve always loved these cars and rent them whenever I can. But for me, the

best part of this project is creating an American-built vehicle: we’re assembling in North Carolina and most of the parts are made in the USA.” Because the Moke is classified as an electric low-speed vehicle (LSV) with speeds up to 35 MPH, it’s not allowed on highways, but it’s perfect for driving around town or through the many gated communities popping up around the world. Says Rome, “For people who love these cool cars, it’s about the history, the memories of film and rock stars cruising the Riviera. Mini Mokes became famous as low-maintenance, fun cars to drive, especially in warm weather climates. And with the color schemes we now offer, the Moke is also a bit of a fashion statement.” Above: Paul McCartney and Brigitte Bardot enjoy cruising in their Mokes. Insets: The newest iterations of the Moke look like the originals but use today’s tech.

END PAGE

GET SMART

Smart Casual is a notch above Business Casual: an uncontrived, pulled-together look for a day in the office or night on the town. A sales executive friend of mine confessed that he hasn’t worn a suit in years because he conducts most of his business over the phone or email. We can lament or rejoice over technology’s impact. But from a fashion perspective, an unintended casualty of its rapid rise is the demise of office attire. Clearly, many men have traded in suits and ties for the somewhat-too-casual, downgraded and downright sloppy look of jeans and T-shirts or khakis and polos. What’s next, Snuggies? Well, not quite. When confident self-styled men play it smart by dressing for work in Smart Casual, it pays off in spades. So, exactly what is the Smart Casual aesthetic? It’s looking neat, relaxed and pulled together without necessarily “matching.” It’s about investing in versatile sportswear pieces made from quality fabrics, and learning how to pair them. Actually, when you buy the right items in the right neutral shades, there’s not much to learn: you can create multiple looks by effortlessly layering shirts, sweaters, vests and outerwear with wool trousers, five-pocket pants or clean denim. Adding the right accessories (handsome cashmere scarf, patterned pocket square, distinctive watch, cool eyewear, burnished leather belt) will take it up a notch without looking contrived. Italians believe in la bella figura: putting careful thought into the image you present to the world, through one’s clothing, one’s attitude, one’s ability to make the ordinary extraordinary. With so many great options for Smart Casual this fall, attaining the extraordinary is easier than you think. — BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

SMART TIPS FOR SMART GUYS

jacket with khakis or jeans; slim suit trousers work with a knit cardigan or vest. Then, when you want to get down to brass tacks, wear the pieces together as a suit. (Advice: dry-clean both the jacket and pant at the same time, even if one doesn’t need it, so they age in unison.) T I E G A M E : Try a not-so-shiny knit, wool/silk or cashmere tie to make a casual-but-still “I mean business” impression. Pair a tie with a sport shirt rather than a dress shirt: a slightly lower knot is perfectly appropriate here and not stuffy. N E U T R A L T E R R I T O R Y: Fall’s neutral colors include gray, brown, black, navy and shades of olive and burgundy; stick to the neutrals in key pieces and add contrast with accessories. This way your tops (woven or knit) will always work with your bottoms. Winning combinations: navy and gray, navy and tan, or brown and gray. S O L E M A N : Get off on the right foot wearing this season’s updated cool sneakers, casual leathers and soft suedes . PAT T E R N R E C O G N I T I O N : Yes, solids are simpler to match, but sometimes it pays to stand out. (Advice: Consider a new soft plaid sport coat that plays well with dark-wash jeans.)

IMAGE COURTESY OF ELEVENTY

S U I T C A S E : Invest in suit separates and wear them in different ways. Pair that classic suit

— MARIKKEN: BASETWO HOODIE, SOTTOBOSCO — BASETWO PANTS, SOTTOBOSCO — TUBAKUBA, BERGEN — PHOTO: VIRRE DAHL —

— EINAR: BASETWO ½-ZIP, SOTTOBOSCO — BJØRKE PANTS, BLACK – SKUTLE SCARF, BLACK — ART DIRECTION: HALTENBANKEN —

A CONTEMPORARY TAKE ON WOOL

HUBERT WHITE FORUM FW 2017/18