INTERVIEW: WITH THE TAMIL NADU ALLIANCE

THE TAMIL NADU ALLIANCE IS A CIVIL SOCIETY FORUM REPRESENTING OVER 100 GRASSROOTS ORGANISATIONS IN SOUTHERN INDIA FOCUSED ON IMPROVING THE CONDITIONS OF YOUNG ADOLESCENT WORKERS IN THE TEXTILE SECTOR.

Q: In our Fashion Transparency Index 2021 report, we found that only 26% of 250 of the world's largest fashion brands and retailers disclose the processing facilities and textile mills in their supply chain. If large international retailers were more transparent about which textile mills they are sourcing from how could this help groups like TNA and the textile workers you support?

A: The more we know about where international brands and retailers source fabric and yarn from, the more we can take action to improve workers’ rights in the textile supply chain. This includes establishing effective mechanisms to address the grievances of textile workers, promoting ethical recruitment practices, ensuring payment of a fair wage, and encouraging freedom of association.

More transparency would enable civil society networks like the Tamil Nadu Alliance to amplify workers’ voices in the supply chain, by engaging with international brands to build a textile industry that supports the well-being of workers.

Q: Our research shows that only 21% of the world's largest fashion brands and retailers audit their suppliers beyond the first tier of the supply chain, including textile mills. What are some of the most pressing issues facing workers in textile mills in Tamil Nadu that brands may not be aware of?

A: Wages are a key issue – there is currently only a legally mandated minimum wage for apprentice textile workers (Rs. 477 = $6.53 USD) and in reality, many experienced workers are paid less than half of this.

Forced overtime, restrictions on freedom of movement, lack of freedom of association and denial of access to statutory social protection benefits is widespread. The impact of the covid-19 pandemic over the past year has exacerbated many of these issues, especially around overtime and delayed payment of wages.

Image Credit: Laudes Foundation