The global fashion industry is one of the largest industries in the world, generating $2.5 trillion in global annual revenues1 before the 2020 COVID-19 crisis. After lockdown restrictions were lifted in many parts of the world the fashion industry quickly returned to pre-pandemic levels with a 6.1% growth in 2022-2023 to $1.95 billion dollars in 20232, demonstrating the important value of clothing, shoes and accessories worldwide.
However, whilst fashion has many benefits- to being generating employment and supporting the economy- the industry is also highly energy-consuming, polluting, and wasteful, and is rife with human rights abuses. Every year, the industry consumes 93 billion cubic meters of water3, and is responsible for approximately 20%4 of industrial water pollution due to textile treatment and dyeing. There are various issues with the materials and procedures employed as well. Cotton production, for example5, consumes 6% of the world’s pesticides and 16% of the world’s insecticides.
The industry also has a significant carbon footprint, accounting for up to 10% of total global carbon emissions6 and expected to increase by 50% by 2030.
In addition to its negative environmental impacts related to water pollution, land usage, textile waste, and using toxic chemicals, the fashion industry is also being criticized for its negative social impacts against many sustainable development goals of the 2030 agenda; including decent work and economic growth, gender equality and reduced inequalities.7
In order to create a carbon-neutral fashion industry based on equity, social justice, animal welfare, and ecological integrity, all stakeholders within the fashion industry (policymakers, brands, consumers) must adopt a sustainable fashion approach. Sustainability in fashion is about more than just textiles or goods. It considers the complete product lifespan process, including how apparel is manufactured, consumed, and disposed of in landfills.
By adopting sustainable practices, the fashion industry can:
Promote ethical production
Sustainable fashion promotes fair labor practices, safe working conditions, and fair wages for garment workers. It emphasizes transparency and supply chain traceability, ensuring that workers are treated ethically throughout the production process.
Sustainable fashion focuses on minimizing waste, conserving resources, and reducing pollution. It encourages the use of eco-friendly materials, such as organic fibers, recycled fabrics, and natural dyes, to minimize the negative impact on the environment.
Circular fashion aims to eliminate waste and keep materials in use for as long as possible. It promotes recycling, upcycling, and repair, as well as innovative business models such as rental, secondhand, and resale platforms. By embracing circularity, the fashion industry can reduce its reliance on finite resources and minimize environmental degradation.
Only by embracing sustainability in fashion and design can we address negative environmental and social impacts, overcome challenges and bring about positive change.
To encourage reflection and promote understanding of the challenges and potential shifts in the textile and clothing industry, consider the following exercises:
Take a moment to reflect on your own role and impact in the fashion industry. Consider how your choices as a consumer, designer, or business owner can contribute to a more sustainable and ethical textile industry.
This toolkit is a compilation of insights and discussions from the “Talk on Sustainability in Fashion & Design’’ event, organized by Impact Hub Yerevan and Fashion and Design Chamber of Armenia, on April 29, 2023. The event was organized as part of “Small but Perfect” Acceleration. The toolkit aims to inspire positive change by providing practical tools, case studies, reflection exercises, and a reading list.
Case
Study and analyze case studies of successful textile and clothing companies that have embraced sustainable practices and overcome challenges. Identify key strategies and lessons
“Sustainability is a thing to be, not a thing to do, and for a designer the path forward needs to start with a key question: how can my design help address humanity’s true needs and enable each and every one of us to challenge the status quo?”
Matteo Ward Founder of WRAD
Let’s look at a couple of brands in Armenia that are actively advocating for the sustainable movement, shaping a future where fashion is both innovative and environmentally responsible.
Founded in 2017 with the main mission to strengthen the Armenian fashion, textile and design sector by enabling it to be fully embedded in the local and international creative ecosystems.
FDC’s vision is to be the leading organization in Armenia that unifies fashion and design professionals to build a sustainable industry and position the Armenian creative and manufacturing sector as an ethical competitor on the global market.
Today FDC unites more than 250 Armenian designers, brands, textile companies, students and creatives.
www.fdc.am/
An upcycling vintage clothing brand based in Yerevan, Armenia, with the goal to recycle vintage clothes and accessories and give them a second life. They believe that nothing is lost, everything should be transformed and wish to focus on buyers’ approach to how they buy clothes.
www.instagram.com/vintabilia/
A social enterprise,aiming to create sustainably Made-vel-e communities in each region of Armenia with a different product and assist unemployed rural inhabitants with the ability to start/restart their true vocations and careers; by teaching them artisanal skills. In return, they create unique merchandise, become teachers themselves and change-makers in their region. Dilijan has been branded with its jewelry products.
Made vel-e is currently expanding to other regions to create other products made of sustainable and recycled materials.
www.instagram.com/made_vel_e/
Established in 2016, with a steadfast purpose of delivering a timeless and sustainable fashion line that highlights the importance of quality, functionality, and style. Their beautiful and sophisticated designs are made in Armenia, with eco-friendly and surplus fabrics, to steer the world towards a more sustainable and ethical future.
zgestfashion.com/en
Galine Galine questions ideas of beauty and fashion, using unconventional 3D draping and Zero Waste Cutting techniques. Galine’s designs evolve around philosophies that are inquisitive of cultural and social issues, focusing care, compassion and ethical consumption.
www.notjustalabel.com/galinegaline
The fashion industry plays a significant role in shaping our society and economy. However, it also has a substantial environmental and social impact. Recognizing the importance of sustainability in the fashion industry, it becomes crucial to set goals and explore potential shifts in production, design, and consumer behavior to promote sustainable practices and the circularity of fashion and design. However, in order for change to happen, actors at all levels of the fashion and textile supply chain need to work together to find solutions to challenges arising at each stage of the supply chain.
Some key steps for making the fashion industry more sustainable are:
Educate industry stakeholders, including designers, manufacturers, retailers, and consumers about the importance of sustainability in the fashion industry. Promote knowledge about sustainable materials, production methods, and the benefits of circular fashion.
Encourage fashion businesses to adopt sustainable materials, such as organic cotton, hemp, and recycled fibers. Promote the use of environmentally friendly production processes, such as water and energy conservation, and the reduction of harmful chemicals.
Advocate for fair labor practices, ensuring that garment workers are treated fairly and have safe working conditions. Encourage the adoption of certifications and standards that guarantee ethical sourcing and production.
Promote the implementation of circular business models, such as rental and resale platforms, to extend the lifespan of fashion products. Encourage the development of recycling and upcycling initiatives to reduce textile waste.
Encourage fashion businesses to source materials locally, reducing transportation emissions and supporting local economies. Promote transparency and traceability in supply chains to ensure ethical and sustainable sourcing practices.
Encourage designers to create timeless, durable, and versatile clothing that can withstand trends and seasons. Foster a shift towards quality over quantity, promoting longlasting garments that can be worn for years.
Educate consumers about the environmental and social impact of the fashion industry. Encourage responsible consumption habits, such as buying less, choosing sustainable brands, and embracing secondhand or rental options.
Foster collaboration among industry stakeholders, including designers, manufacturers, retailers, policymakers, and consumers. Encourage the exchange of ideas, knowledge, and best practices to drive innovation and accelerate the adoption of sustainable solutions.
By engaging in these reflection exercises, individuals and businesses can gain deeper insights into their current practices, critically analyze sustainability issues in the fashion industry, and align their values with sustainable fashion principles. These exercises facilitate self-reflection, leading to informed decision-making and a more purposeful approach to fashion.
Evaluate your current business practices
Take a closer look at your fashion business or individual practices and assess their environmental and social impact. Consider aspects such as sourcing, production methods, waste management, and worker welfare. Reflect on areas where improvements can be made to align with sustainable fashion principles.
Conduct a material and supply chain audit
Analyze the materials and suppliers you currently work with. Reflect on the sustainability credentials of these materials and assess whether they align with eco-friendly and ethical standards. Consider alternative materials and suppliers that can help you transition to more sustainable practices.
Measure your environmental footprint
Calculate your business’s carbon emissions, water consumption, and waste generation. Reflect on these metrics to identify areas where you can reduce your environmental impact. Set goals to track your progress over time.
Reflect on your values
Take a moment to reflect on your personal or organizational values and their relationship to sustainability. What are your core beliefs regarding the environment, social justice, and responsible business practices? Consider how these values can guide your decisions and actions in the fashion industry.
Identify areas for improvement
Reflect on the values you have identified and assess whether your current practices align with them. Identify any gaps or areas where your actions may contradict your values. This exercise can help you prioritize changes and set goals that align with your core beliefs.
Assess the sustainability practices of your fashion business by completing the table.
Rate each aspect on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 being the lowest and 5 being the highest.
Calculate the total points and refer to the result section to determine your business’s sustainability level.
Calculate the total points by summing up the ratings for each aspect.
8-15
If the total points are between 8-15 your fashion business has room for improvement in its sustainability practices. Identify the areas that require immediate attention and prioritize actions to enhance sustainability.
16-24
If the total points are between 1624 your fashion business is making progress in sustainability, but there are still areas for improvement. Focus on implementing actions to bridge the gap between current and desired ratings.
25-40
If the total points are between 2540, congratulations! Your fashion business has a strong foundation of sustainability practices. Continue to monitor and refine your efforts while exploring new opportunities for sustainability.
Ethical
Waste & Recycling
Energy
Labor & Worker Rights
Social Impact
Circular
Economy
Overall
References
McKinsey and Business of Fashion
State of Fashion 2021
View here
Fashion United Global Fashion Industry Statistics
View here
World Bank
How Much Do Our Wardrobes Cost to the Environment?
September 23, 2019
View here
Bick, R., Halsey, E. & Ekenga, C.C.
The global environmental injustice of fast fashion
Environ Health 17, 92 (2018)
View here
FairTrade Foundation
Fairtrade and Cotton
May 2020
View here
Wexler J.
The carbon cost of clothing. Ethical Consumer
August 20, 2021
View here
Global Labour Justice
Gender based violence in supply chains
View here
Online Resources & Platforms
Fashion Revolution
www.fashionrevolution.org
Global Fashion Agenda
www.globalfashionagenda.com
Textile Exchange
www.textileexchange.org
Sustainable Apparel Coalition www.apparelcoalition.org
