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5 Rodial x Katranzou 9 Revlon x Marchesa 10
Splurge or stieal?
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The perfect foundation for … Combition to Oily & very Oily skin
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The perfect foundation for … Dry & Very Dry skin
18 Atelier Versace’s Sultry lids 20 Christian Dior’s metallic lips 22 Jean Paul Gaultier’s shades of brown 24 Put up a Happy Face 28 Energy with benefits 37 Beautifying Oils 42 Exfoliation Dangers 46 The Alphabet of Creams 51 Ages of beauty 61 The Mystery of Chanel No.5 66 Professional Advice 73 Emphasis on the eyes BEAUTY lab 3
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Rodial x Katranzou Cosmetic brand Rodial and fashion designer Mary Katranzou collaborate to preserve the summer in a candle. By Plamena Zahova
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he result of a new exciting collaboration will hit the stores in September. The scientific beauty brand Rodial famous for the “Bee Venom” face cream and the queen of prints Mary Katranzou have teamed up to create a limited edition candle, bringing the breeze and brights of summer into the approaching Autumn. No more summertime sadness. The divine scent features notes of zesty orange and lemon, complemented by a sweet base of pineapple and orange blossom to fill any space with the fresh aromas of the passing season and hold on the sunny days a little longer. When the candle burns out one is left with the beautiful, unique votive that can be used to keep makeup brushes or pens and bring color to every dresser, desk or coffee table. Inspired by Katranzou’s Nature vs. Nature collection the bright container showcases her iconic Babelle print in vibrant gold, turquoise, purple and yellow. “I am so excited to be launching this in collaboration with one of my favorite design-
ers Mary Katranzou. I am in love with Mary’s signature bold prints and think this candle is the perfect representation of two merging luxury brands,” says Maria Hatzistefanis, founder of Rodial Cosmetics. The Greek designer is just as enthusiastic. “I’m thrilled to have collaborated with Rodial on this beautiful candle. Rodial is the ultimate iconic beauty brand and this candle will be perfect for beauty fanatics and fashionistas everywhere,” she says. The launch follows Katranzou’s successful diffusion line for Topshop, handbag collection for Longchamp and Current/Elliot denim collection. The candle will be exclusively sold at Space NK before it becomes also available at London’s most famous trio - Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges. The price tag of £35 might seem quite high for a candle, but considering that Mary Katranzou’s iconic prints are becoming collectibles it might just be worth the splurge.
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Revlon x Marchesa Marchesa is entering the drugstore, says Plamena Zahova
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evlon and Marchesa have announced a global collaboration, demonstrating that beauty and fashion go hand in hand. The first collection featuring 3D Jellew Appliqués will be released in September followed by two more in the next 18 months. The nail wraps will be available in eight limited edition textured patterns inspired by Marchesa’s intricate couture gowns. With no drying time required the appliqués, which will retail for £8.99 at selected Boots and Superdrug stores nationwide, are a lady’s best friend. A new trend might be rising – matching nails and dresses.
The other two ranges will expand into nail polish, lips and eyes products, and beauty tools. Both brads are very secretive about what they have in store. “While we can’t reveal all the details of our multicollection partnership with Revlon just yet, each collection will truly embody our brand’s feminine and dramatic spirit,” promises Karen Craig. Marchesa’s other co-founder and designer Georgina Chapman revealed that the third range will
be donating to charity. “We are especially excited for our final collection with Revlon, which will have the added alement of philanthropy, which is incredibly important to Karen and me,” she said in a conversation with Telegraph.co.uk. “Revlon’s dedication to charity is a driving force behind our decision to work with them, and we are thrilled that one of our Revlon by Marchesa collections will benefit a worthy cause.” The collaboration is no surprise after Gucci Westman, Revlon’s Global Artistic Director, was the leading make-up artist, responsible for all the beauty looks at Marchesa’s Fall / Winter 2013 and Spring 2014 Bridal collection runways. “When we were first approached by Revlon about a potential collaboration, Karen and I were really excited about the chance to partner with an iconic brand that believes, as we do, in making a woman feel beautiful while remaining true to herself,” said Georgina Chapman to British Vogue. “Through Revlon’s incredible global reach, we will be able to bring a little piece of Marchesa to women around the world.”
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Couture Beauty Prepare for autumn with chignons and bronze, says Plamena Zahova
Atelier Versace’s Sultry lids
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telier Versace Fall 2013 takes us back to “the real glamour.” At a preview of the collection Donatella Versace told Women’s Wear Daily that she was inspired by “that black-and-white era where everything was perfect. The photography was perfect, the hair was perfect, the makeup was perfect. It was always about perfection.” References to that era could be found not only in the designs, but also in the immaculate makeup, which evoked the legendary Tears photograph (1932) by Man Ray. The dramatic sultry eyes “based in lashes with a bit of smoke” as makeup artist Pat MacGrath says were what the entire look revolved around. Golden and bronzy tones mysteriously smoked out the eyes framed by two and half rows of thick lavish lashes both on the top and bottom lids. The waterline covered in white made the eyes appear bigger balancing the smudged color beneath. Unusually for Versace, all else was toned down. Groomed brows, clean skin without any blusher or contour and naked
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lips completed the makeup. The hair, sleeked back in a messy knot was the biggest surprise. “It’s very different for Donatella, because her hair is always down,” Redken’s creative consultant Guido Palau said to Style.com. “There are a lot of punky bits for a rock ‘n’ roll feeling. It’s not Madame-y. It’s Donatella’s chignon.” The only model, who had her hair straight, elegantly cascading down her back, was the show opener – the legendary Naomi Campbell. “I wanted a sexy and sophisticated woman with a strong attitude. Only a true icon like Naomi Campbell could open this show,” Donatella Versace tweeted herself. The elegant and surprisingly wearable beauty look is the epitome of that woman, a woman brave enough to wear a sultry smoky eye, yet sophisticated enough to tone down the rest.
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Christian Dior’s
metallic lips
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he basic idea for me is that I like the idea of freeing up couture,” Raf Simons said to WWD before the beginning of his Couture 2013 show. “I think that psychologically, emotionally, it can be approached the same way as ready-to-wear: out there for women to enjoy and to wear. It’s a psychology of how clothes can look in relation to a modern woman and the way she is living her life and experiencing the culture.” The talented designer definitely created modern and wearable couture pieces that can easily be fitted into the lifestyle of the fortunate ladies for whom the price tag is nothing but a small detail. The same goes for the hair, the sleek low buns Guido Palau created for the runway are a classic and elegant style appropriate for every place and occasion. “Raf doesn’t want to recreate the couture era. He’s very forward thinking,” Palau says. The futuristic, modern element could be seen in the runway makeup looks. The muted wash of natural color on the eyes, accentuated with fairy-like glitter dust in the inner corners and
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the center of the lids, the naked lashes, groomed brows and clean skin were the perfect canvas for the bold lips to stand out. Famous makeup artist Pat McGrath created glittering metallic lips in shades of pink, berry or rose, using theatrical glue and highly reflective pigments. “What people don’t know is that when we do shows, we really have to find the right woman,” McGrath said. Not every lady can pull off the show stopping bold lip but it is definitely worth the try.
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Jean Paul Gaultier’s
shades of brown
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ean Paul Gaultier, famous for his spectacular catwalks, stayed true to himself to the last detail. The collection celebrating the Woman as Predator was inspired by lioness and cougars, tigresses and cheetahs. The bold animalistic theme was strongly reflected in the hair and makeup. Gaultier’s longtime partner in crime coiffeur Oldie Gilbert created four equally impressive elaborate styles. “He loves hair,” she said to Style. com. “What I love about Jean Paul, because I’ve worked with a lot of designers, is that he always wants a certain sense of humor in the hair.” Tall chignons bedazzled with stone-encrusted details were followed by cone-shaped ones supported by a wiring system Gilbert designed herself. A massively accessorized spin on the classic donutshaped bun was positioned right above the forehead, while elegant French twists were spraypainted with “cheetah paw print.” The last one was Gibert’s favorite. The stylist created a similar style for John Galliano’s first couture show at Dior “but in a totally different way.” “For me Jean Paul is like Galliano, he has a vi-
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sion,” the coiffeur says. The runway makeup look created by Lloyd Simmonds also followed the fierce theme in earthy tones, referencing Fellini’s smoldering ladies and their love for black eyeliner. The clean, lightly contoured face made the perfect canvass for the strong eye look complemented by peachy-toned lips. Rich shades of brown elongated the eye as far as possible. The cat eye effect was reinforced by onyx pigment place all around the upper and lower lash lines. To balance out the look water line was heavily rimmed with white liner not only helping the eyes appear bigger and brighter, but also ensuring the rest of the colors pop. Thick pairs of falsies completed the makeup. “He said he wanted the makeup to be very ‘Couture.’ Instead of one shade of brown shadow, there are six shades of brown shadow; you just spend more time,” Simmonds explained to Style. com. This fierce beauty look can definitely be worn on a day to day basis. All it takes is a slightly toning it down.
Put up a Happy Face
Plamena Zahova explores new research claiming that Botox not only lifts the face, but also the spirits
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“A man does not cry because he is sad, he is sad because he cries” William James, philosopher & psychologist
Botox is one the most popular cosmetic procedures, causing continuous heated debates and controversial titles in the media. Freezing the facial muscles to smooth the signs of ageing minimizes the unconscious micro-expressions and prevents from physically expressing anger or sadness. Some believe that this might result in detachment from the rest of the world and even depression, although such connection has not been proven. Actually recent studies point out that Botox can directly affect emotions in a positive direction and even help alleviate depression.
– some received Botox injections in their frown muscles, others received a placebo in the same area. Their condition was assessed twice – 3 months later and then 6 months later. 27% of the people who received Botox reported a complete remission of depression, an impressive number compared to only 7% of those who received the placebo.
In his recently published book “The Face of Emotion: How Botox Affects Our Moods and Relationships” the American Dermatologists Dr. Eric Finzi claims that the botulinum toxin A, injected into the frown muscles not only lifts the face, but in about 50% it also betters the mood of the patients, improves relationships and can even cure depression.
These results suggest that the physical expression of emotions, actually influences the mood and feelings, opposite to the common believe that the face only demonstrates one’s state. Therefore, Dr. Finzi believes that by unclenching and paralyzing the frown muscles and preventing patients from dis~Dr. Eric Finzi playing negative emotions such as anger or sadness alleviates the mood. “Maybe the frown is not just an end result of the depression; maybe you need to frown in order to be depressed,” he says in an interview.
In one of his studies Dr. Finzi worked with 84 people suffering from severe cases of depression for an average of two years who didn’t respond well if at all to any of the medicine they were prescribed. The patients were divided in two groups
There are a number of studies supporting the same idea and more are underway. Dr. Alex Wallmer conducted a similar research that led to the same conclusions. A group of 15 moderately depressed volunteers received Botox injections
“Maybe the frown is not just an end result of the depression; maybe you need to frown in order to be depressed.”
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into their frown muscles, while a same-sized control group of people in the same emotional state received a placebo. “In the end those who became better were those who have gotten the Botox injections,” Waller said. None of the participants were told they might be receiving Botox to ensure that they’re not volunteering to participate for cosmetic reasons. Dr. Michael Lewis, senior lecturer at Cardiff University’s School of Psychology also recruited 25 volunteers for a research he carried out with Courthouse Clinic in London. 12 of the patients received Botox injections, while the rest of them received other antiaging treatments such as facials, fillers, peals, etc. Two weeks later all of the participants filled in a self-screening mood questionnaire and rated the success of the treatment received. “The Botox patients scored much lower on measures of depression, anxiety and irritability. Crucially there was no significant difference in how much their treatment made them feel attractive from those who have received other treatments, suggesting that the uplifted mood wasn’t just down to a boost in self-confidence,” Dr. Lewis explains. “This research may help the development of a new treatment for depressive illness. Unlike other treatments for depression, which have
significant negative side effects, the only main side effect of a botox-based treatment would be a younger looking face,” he continues. “Botox works to make people beautiful by paralyzing the frown muscles. We know from research that if you make someone smile they feel happier. So if you stop someone from frowning you would think that they are going to be less sad or unhappy.” The connection between mood and expression has been explored for years. Actually the idea can be traced back to Darwin who believed that facial expressions influence the emotions. In his book “The expression of emotions in man and animals” he wrote “The free expression by outward ~ Dr. Michael Lewis signs of an emotion intensifies it. On the other hand, the repression, as far as this is possible, of all outward signs softens our emotions.”
We know from research that if you make someone smile they feel happier. So if you stop someone from frowning you would think that they are going to be less sad or unhappy.”
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This idea was elaborated and evidenced by numerous studies. One of them showed that reading words related to negative emotions causes a contraction of the muscles that pull the eyebrows down towards the center of the face, resulting in a frown, while reading positive emotional words stimulate the muscles that lift the corners of the mouth, causing a smile. This demonstrates the way involuntary facial expressions can evoke a
Put up a Happy Face
certain mood and brings a whole new understanding of the expression “put up a happy face.” Maybe a depression or just a bad mood doesn’t cause a frown; maybe it is provoked by it. And although none of the results of these researches are definite and the idea of treating depression with Botox still needs to be studied and elaborated on, there is one conclusion that can be made. Facing the world with a frown doesn’t bring happiness. With or without Botox a smile always lifts the spirits.
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Energy with benefits Plamena Zahova debunks the claims about coffee being harmful
Energy with benefits
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offee is one of the most consumed drinks in the world, with a history going back to the middle of the XV century. Millions of people around the globe have coffee with or instead of breakfast each morning, enjoy one or more coffee breaks during the day and meet friends over a cup of the energizing drink. More than 500 billion cups are consumed each year!
Although coffee is such a popular, ancient drink there are still arguments and studies on all the different ways it affects the human organism. The common opinion most people have in the back of their mind and the main reason for many regular coffee drinkers to give up that habit is that they believe caffeine to be harmful. While it is true that when used extensively it can cause headache, anxiety or dehydration, more recent studies show that regular moderate coffee consumption is benign and even beneficial for healthy individuals. A research conducted by the National Institutes of Health - AARP Diet and Health in 2012 proved that the amount of coffee consumed correlates negatively with the risk of death and that coffee drinkers live longer than non-drinkers. That was confirmed by an ongoing 22-year study published in the New England Journal of medicine in 2012. The scholars from the Harvard School of Public Health stated that “the overall balance of risks and benefits [of coffee consumption] are on the side of benefits.”
Moreover, coffee reduces the risk of cancer, Alzheimer’s disease, Parkinson’s disease, dementia, diabetes type 2 and heart disease. According to a research from the Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy, part of Rutgers University in New Jersey, those who exercise regularly and moderately consume coffee develop 62 percent fewer skin tumors than those who don’t. Another positive effect caffeine has is of an acute antidepressant. Dr. Albert Asherio, cited by Be Youthful, says: “Caffeine is known to affect the brain because it modulates the release of mood transmitters. I’m not saying we’re on the path to discovering a new way to prevent depression, but I think you can be reassured that if you are drinking coffee, it is coming out ~ Dr. Albert Asherio as a positive thing.” A study in the Archives of Internal Medicine confirms that women who consume up to four cups of coffee a day are 20 percent less prone to chronic depression than the ones who only drink one or less.
“I think you can be reassured that if you are drinking coffee, it is coming out as a positive thing.”
Alongside all of the health benefits the popular drink provides numerous beatifying treats. “Caffeine has three great properties,” says Dr. Leslie Baumann, professor of dermatology at the University of Miami in an interview for Elle Canada “It’s an antioxidant, it shrinks blood vessels and it dehydrates fat cells.” Roasted coffee is full of antioxidants, magnesium
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vides. It reduces redness and inflammation, leaving the skin even-toned and radiant. A study conducted in 1981 at the Seoul National University found that caffeine reduces inflammation almost as good as aspirin. This is one of the properties that help reduce puffiness and under-eye circles. Applying caffeine to the bags, caused by allergies, genetics or lack Cited by Fox News Dr. Vicki of sleep decreases the blood Rapaport, a Beverly Hillscirculation and minimizbased dermatologist agrees es them. Still on the same that coffee contributes to note a Journal of Drugs in healthy, young looking skin. ~ Dr. Vicki Rapaport Dermatology study demon“Coffee is hailed for the antistrated that application of oxidants that are in it. These caffeine on the under-eyes twice a day reduces antioxidants and the caffeine molecule help rethe “pouches” by up to 28 percent in six weeks. pair cell damage and are anti-inflammatory, the buzzword of the moment. Drinking it provides Probably the least famous beauty and health anti-inflammatory activity for your cells interproperty of coffee is the fact that it protects the nally and applying it to the skin provides protecskin from sun damage and cures the consequenction. It can help reduce the look of fine lines, age es of it. Paul Nghiem, M.D., an associate professpots and saggy skin.” sor of dermatology at the University of WashThis leads to another beauty benefit coffee proand chromium, which transforms the hot cup of energy in an actual part of an anti-aging routine. The cause for fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging is free radicals which destroy the elastic skin tissue. Antioxidants not only protect the skin, but also repair the damaged cells, reversing the clock.
“Drinking coffee provides anti-inflammatory activity for your cells internally and applying it to the skin provides protection.”
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Energy with benefits
ington in Seattle coauthored a 2007 study by the British Journal of Dermatology, which proved that caffeine application could aid the elimination of UV-affected skin cells in mice. A sample containing 1 percent caffeine, which equals the amount typically found in cosmetics, suppressed the function of a protein called ATR which enables pre-cancer cells to survive and eventually replicate. “We are just beginning to discover caffeine’s effectiveness in reversing sun damage,” he says in an interview for Elle Magazine, “but it’s a fact that consequently, the body was able to rid itself of double the amount of DNA-damaged cells.” Another widely known and talked about advantage of caffeine is its contribution to reducing the appearance of cellulite. Dr. Lydia Evans, a consulting dermatologist for L’Oreal Paris says that “caffeine is a member of a group of compounds known as methylxathines. These compounds stimulate enzymes that break down fat cells. They also promote the movement of fluid out of the cells, which decreases their size and produces a tightening effect.” Although some dermatologists argue that the effects of caffeine are only temporary and disappear when application is discontinued, a 2007 study of the Federal University of Rio de Jeneiro found that the application of caffeine induced ointments to cellulite not only reduced its appearance but also led to reduction of the hips’ diameter in 70 percent of the participants.
Caffeinated Thoughts
“I have measured out my life with
coffee spoons.”
~ T. S. Eliot
“To me, the smell of fresh-made coffee is one of the greatest inventions.” ~ Hugh Jackman “If it wasn’t for the coffee, I’d have no identifiable personality whatsover.” ~ David Letterman “If I were a woman I’d wear coffee as a perfume.” ~ John Van Druten “If I were a woman I’d wear coffee as a perfume.” ~ John Van Druten “Coffee is the best thing to douse the sunrise with.” ~Drew Sirtors
As it turns out the daily dose of coffee is not harmful at all. On the contrary, the black gold brings numerous positive effects along with the cherished energy boost. A cup a day keeps the doctor away.
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Coffee & Cardamom Body Scrub 1 Cup Ground Coffee 1 Cup Brown Sugar 2 Tbsp Ground Cardamom 1½ Handful Raw Shea Butter ½ Cup Olive Oil 2 Tbsp Vitamin E oil Mix the coffee, brown sugar and cardamom together. Melt the raw shea butter with the warmth of your hands to a creamy consistency and massage it into the mixture. Add about half a cup of olive oil and 2 table spoons of Vitamin E oil. Mix everything together. Keep in a closed pot in the refrigerator. Use as a regular body scrub. *The quantities can be adjusted according to the desired texture and amount of scrub. ** Shea butter can be replaced by coconut butter or almond oil.
Coffee & Cocoa Face Mask ½ Cup Ground Coffee ½ Unsweetened Cocoa Powder 1 Cup Whole Milk 1 Tbsp Lemon Juice 1 Tbsp Honey Mix the coffee with the cocoa powder. Add the milk and stir until it creates a paste-like consistency. Complete by folding in the honey and lemon juice. Apply to the face and allow it to dry for 20 minutes. Wash off with lukewarm water. Leftover product can be stored in a refrigerator for up to three day. *Diary milk can be replaced with almond milk ** For dry skin lemon juice can be replaced with olive or almond oil *** For extremely oily acne or prone skin add another tbsp of lemon juice instead of honey.
Treatment for Under-Eye Dark Circles Finely Ground Coffee Milk or Olive Oil Create a fine paste mixing coffee with milk or olive oil. Apply to under eyes. Rinse off when dry. Repeat daily to reduce inflammation and puffiness.
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5 Shots of Coffee The earliest credible evidence of coffee-drinking were found in the Sufi Shrines of Yemen and date back to the XV century. The word’s first cafÊ was opened in 1475 in Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul, Turkey). The first coffee house in Western Europe opened in Venice, Italy in 1645. The coffee break was first introduced in the US in 1952 after being heavily promoted by the Pan-American Coffee Bureau. Green unroasted coffee if the second most traded commodity in the world, after crude oil.
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Beautifying Oils
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atural oils are an invaluable beauty source. Used on their own or mixed in with other cosmetic products, they are a great source of moisture and vitamins for the skin and hair. They preserve the hydro-lipid balance of the skin needed for its healthy glow, moisturize and nourish intensely, stimulate cell renewal and serve a protective function. Unlike man-made cosmetics, natural beauty oils are fully absorbed and rarely cause negative reactions. Countless cosmetic products contain one or more natural oils, but there is hardly any information about the properties of each. Coconut and hempseed oil are undoubtedly two of the most beneficial ones and caused a revolution entering the western market. On the other hand, mineral oil contained in numerous products causes heated debates clashing opinions ranging from one extreme to another. Discover all the reasons why on the following pages for an informed beauty regime!
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Coconut Oil
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oconut Oil has been used for skin and hair care in the tropical climates for hundreds of years. In the 1990s scientific studies proved its advantages and healing properties to the Western world. It seems to be the answer to almost every question related to skincare, hair care and even weight loss. The miraculous oil is easily absorbed by the skin and completely natural and safe.
When applied coconut oil easily melts into the skin fighting dryness and leaving it soft and smooth by increasing the levels of skin surface lipids while the medium-chain fatty acids are utilized by the mitochondria to provide the energy the skin needs to heal and maintain itself. The oil is around 50% Lauric Acid, which is elsewhere found only in the human breast milk. It is not only nurturing and energizing, but also has healing properties. The Lauric Acid contained in it is antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral. It limits the amount of microbes on
the skin and greatly benefits conditions such as eczema, dandruff, psoriasis, ringworm, and other infections. It also kills the bacteria that causes acne and speeds-up the healing process. Coconut oil is a natural source of vitamin E famous for its moisturizing properties. It can easily replace any synthetic cream minimizing the risk of irritation and also act as a cleanser because of its ability to get very deep into the skin removing dirt, grease and even waterproof makeup. With its abundance of antioxidants (ferulic acid and p-coumaric acid) coconut Oil replenishes the skin cells and reverses the signs of aging. Fine lines, wrinkles, sagging are caused by free radical molecules, which destroy the elastic skin tissues and cause connective tissues to lose strength. When alcohol and smoking are added to the mix, skin starts ageing at a very fast paste. Antioxidants are preservatives that clear up the free radical molecules and repair the damaged skin cells. Coconut Oil also eliminates dead skin cells and reduces flaking skin, improving the overall quality and appearance of the biggest organ in the human body.
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Hemp Oil
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emp seed oil is extracted from the Cannabis Sativa plant which, just for the record, is perfectly legal. Rich in Omega 3, Omega 6, and Omega 9, as well as well as Vitamins A, C, E and D, as well as beneficial amounts of amino acids Hemp Seed Oil is a natural skincare superstar.
Healthy and youthful skin contains natural lipids (fats) called Ceramids. They are part of the surface skin structure that keeps it moisturized. Insufficiency of Ceramids causes dryness, irritation, and sensitive more malleable to environmental damage and aging. Hemp Seed Oil is made up of 80% of essential fatty acids (Omega 3,6, and 9), which is higher than any other plant on Earth. The ratio of Omega 6 to Omega 3 so closely matches the skin lipids, that unlike other oils that simply coat the skin Hemp Seed Oil
penetrates the cells and lubricates the surface between them. In other words it not only prevents moisture loss on a physiological level, it is proven to have anti-aging qualities and helps regenerate the skin’s protective layer. Deeply moisturizing, hempseed oil energizes and revitalizes the skin. It also increases its elasticity and the water retention capacity in tissues, which not only makes it highly beneficial for dry, tired and dehydrated skin, but combined with its antioxidant properties also provides anti-ageing benefits. Moreover, the essential fatty acids contained in hempseed oil have powerful anti-inflammatory qualities that soothe and improve conditions like eczema and acne, which makes it ideal for highly sensitive, problematic and acne-prone skin.
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Mineral Oil
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M
ineral oil is often found in cosmetics and baby care product which the cause of countless discussions. While many believe it is absolutely harmless others claim that not only it is not environmentally friendly, but is also harmful.
The most common one is that no matter how you look at it mineral oil is definitely not environmentally friendly. It is in fact derived from based on a non-renewable resource and plays a part in global warming. Another concern is the fact that by staying on top of the skin mineral oil doesn’t let it breaths and slows down the detoxifying process. Also it is known for clogging the pores causing blackheads and preventing the shedding of death skin cells from shedding which in the long run may result in dryness, flakiness, and premature ageing.
Mineral oil is a product of the petroleum industry, distilled from crude oil as a byproduct of the distillation of gasoline. As a leftover liquid, mineral oil is abundant and very inexpensive. It can be found in various forms, the most popular one is petroleum jelly also known as Vaseline. The lighter forms are often called liquid paraffin and in many cases makeup a ~ Dr. Elena Stoyanova 100% of baby oil.
“Mineral oil is not the worst chemical one can use on the skin, it is still good to keep away from it as much as possible.”
What makes mineral oil interesting to the cosmetic industry is that first it is not very reactive, so it can very rarely cause any allergies. Also, when applied to the skin it forms a thin film that slows down the loss of moisture and acts as a protective barrier between the skin and the environment. For that reason mineral oil is believed to be one of the most effective moisturizers and is contained in countless products caring for dry skin, as well as lotions, soaps and bath oils. Mineral oil has been used as an essential part in dry skin treatments ever since it became widely available around the First World War. However, recently there have been several common objections against the use of mineral oil.
Some claim that once absorbed from the skin the mineral oil is broken down by the liver and as it passes through the intestinal tract it absorbs vitamins that the body cannot replace, which in extreme cases may even lead to nutritional deficiencies. Bulgarian dermatologist Dr. Elena Stoyanova says that although mineral oil is not the worst chemical one can use on the skin, it is still good to keep away from it as much as possible. “People with combination and oily skin should take extra care avoiding mineral oil because of its greasy consistency,” she warns. Harmful or not mineral oil is a chemical foreign to the body. With so many natural and positively healthy alternatives such as coconut oil, hemp seed oil and cocoa butter there is no reason for it not to be replaced with a different moisturizer.
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Exfoliation Dangers Exfoliators are the most abused skin care product. Their misuse has ugly consequences, discovers Plamena Zahova
Exfoliation Dangers
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“For a very long time I believed that I needed to exfoliate every single day because I have extremely oily skin,” says Maya. “I used aggressive scrubs and exfoliating brushes on my skin every night before bed, but I was still suffering from breakouts and redness. I even splurged and ordered the Clarisonic. Adding that to the routine was the point when my skin couldn’t take it anymore and I broke out severely. I finally went to the dermatologist and when she found out about my exfoliation habits she warned me to stop immediately and let my skin recover. When my “Women think that if they exfoliate more freface finally healed I followed the doctor’s advice quently, they will get rid of dead skin cells,” says and began exfoliating Dr. Marko Lens, a with gentler products plastic and recononly three times a structive surgeon and week and quickly saw founder of Zelens, in the difference. Now an interview with Remy skin is calmer and finery29. “However, they don’t know that ~ Mila Moursi, Celebrity Aesthetician less sensitive. I don’t have as many probthis will not give the lems as I used to.” skin time to follow a natural renewal process – the so-called natural The frequency of exfoliation depends on the skin turnover of epidermal cells – which is crucial in type, texture and age. Generally younger and oilskin regeneration.” Premature aging and dryness ier skin can be exfoliated more often because it are just two examples of the possible results. is thicker than mature skin, which has a thinner epidermis and needs to be treated with products “Overexfoliating strips the skin of natural oils catering its needs. However, Dr. Elena Stoyanova thereby causing irritation and inflammation,” warns that even the oiliest skin should not be exsays celebrity aesthetician Mila Moursi. “Overfoliated more than three times a week. “There are stripped skin can backfire and then cause excess of course exceptions,” she says, “but women with oil production, triggering breakouts.” Other such problematic skin need to visit a dermatoloconsequences can be oversengist to receive professional advice. Generally two sitivity, redness, bumps and or three times a week is a good rule to follow.” even peeling.
xfoliators of all types are some of the most hyped up products in the beauty world. Drugstore and high-end brands flood the market with their formulas, promising cleaner, brighter and younger skin, some of them claiming to be appropriate for daily use. While dermatologists agree that exfoliation is an essential step of a healthy skin care routine, they also point out that if overdone it may lead to serious issues.
“Overexfoliating strips the skin of natural oils thereby causing irritation and inflammation.”
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Exfoliation Dangers Moderate exfoliation with the right product is necessary for the skin to look its best. What it essentially does is accelerating the process of losing dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin, called desquamation. Naturally the skin sheds up to 50 000 dead cells per minute. This number decreases with aging, slowing down the in turnover process.
with Beaytilish.com. By removing the dead skin cells, exfoliation reveals the younger, fresher and healthier skin underneath.
The concentration of dead skin cells results not only in dryness, dullness, and even flakiness, it may also lead to clogged pores and severe break outs. It also highlights fine lines causing the skin to appear older.
It not only slows down the aging process, but also minimizes redness, evens the skin tone, and removes impurities and oils, unclogging the pores and reducing the risk of break outs and inflammation. Moreover, when blood circulation increases, the cells receive more oxygen and nutrients. Another benefit of exfoliation is that it prepares the skin for the application of other treatments, allowing the ingredients of nourishing masks, serums and moisturizers to penetrate deeper into its layers.
“Exfoliating helps fight against aging because it stimulates blood and lymph flow and cell turnover. As we age, the skin can start to look dull. If you want that Michele Williams or Adriana Lima glow to your face, exfoliate!� urges dermatologist Dr. David A. Colbert in an interview
Exfoliation is essential for skin care, but just as any other treatment it can be dangerous when excessive. The most important rule to follow is that the skin should be smooth and glowing after treated. Dryness and irritation are signs that it should be reduced.
Quick fix To soothe overexfoliated skin apply a cold milk compress once a day for three days followed by a nourishing oil or balm. Cleansers with aggressive ingredients and mineral oils that might be irritating should be avoided until the skin heals completely.
Exfoliation Dangers
Types of exfoliators Physical Exfoliators such as cream
and gel scrubs contain beats or grains, which physically buff away the dead skin cells. Some of the more aggressive once on the market contain beads with sharp edges that can leave micro scratches on the skin. The rounded beads are gentler. The particles in the scrub might be plastic, sugar, crushed seeds or shells and even aluminum oxide crystals. The cream exfoliators are appropriate for normal to dry skin, while the gel once cater the needs of combination to oily skin. Cloths, loofahs and brushes are also a part of the physical exfoliators.
Chemical Exfoliators
contain different types of Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acid, Retinoids and Enzymes which chemically remove the dead skin cells from the surface of the skin by breaking the bonds between them and the epidermis. The Alpha Hydroxy Acids, such as Glycolic Acid derived from sugar, Mallic Acid derived from apples, Tartaric Acid – from grapes, Lactic Acid – from milk and Citrus Acids – from lemons, oranges and grapefruits benefit scared, aging skin but because of their low PH level might irritate the skin if overused. The Beta Hydroxy Acids such as Salicylic Acid, often used to treat acne, are gentler and less irritating to the skin. Retinoids are most aggressive. If formulated correctly Retinol can be very beneficial for the skin. Other forms, such as Ratin-A are sold only through prescription and are used to treat severe cases of Acne and wrinkles.
Choices, choices … For best results dermatologists suggest both physical and chemical exfoliators to be included in the skin care routine. “The physical exfoliators remove the dead cells on the top layer of the skin while the chemical ones break it down and really help resurface,” explains Dr. Stoyanova.
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The Alphabet
of Creams
BB, CC and DD creams flood the high-street and department stores. Plamena Zahova explains what are they meant for and asks
“do they really work?”
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The Alphabet of Creams Ever since BB creams hit the Western market they have been all the rage. Alphabetizing the names and promising countless benefits all in one product has become a trend that doesn’t seem to fade anytime soon. BB creams were followed by CC and even DD creams, each of them claiming to be more miraculous than the previous. What are the differences between these products and do they fulfill the promises on the packaging are questions that need to be answered because the purchase and use of any face product has to be well informed for any disappointment to be avoided.
The extinction of the tinted moisturizer began the moment when BB creams became popular. The Beauty Balm or Blemish Balm (which BB stands for) was invented in Germany in the 1960s by dermatologist Dr. Christine Schrammek to soothe, protect and regenerate the skin tissue after procedures like peels and facials. The cream exploded in the late 1980s when it was introduced to the Korean and Japanese markets. At first it was used to ease the post-procedure redness of laser treatment patients. It was soon heavily embraced by celebrities and was even proclaimed “the secret of Korean actresses.”
BB, CC and DD creams are all successors of the tinted moisturizer, which still has its fans but seems to be headed towards extinction as a new one hasn’t been released in long time. Tinted moisturizers hydrate the skin, also providing a very light coverage, which evens out the skin tone but isn’t enough to cover up blemishes, break outs or hyperpigmentation.
BB creams flooded the Western market in the last two years and quickly became the latest craze with their infinite list of benefits. Hydration, broadspectrum sun protection, priming, covering and anti-ageing are all on it. The hybrid product offers medium coverage and is heavier than tinted moisturizer but much lighter than foundation. That being said, both makeup artists and consumers point out that BB creams don’t provide the flawless finish of a full coverage foundation.
Both makeup artists and consumers point out that BB creams don’t provide the flawless finish of a full coverage foundation.
The classic tinted moisturizers don’t contain any anti-ageing, whitening or soothing ingredients, and often have a dewy finish that makes them unsuitable for people with combination to oily skin. However, the one big advantage they have compared to the new generation of alphabetized creams is that they are often made in a bigger range of shades and provide the opportunity for a closer match to the skin tone, while BB, CC and DD creams come in up to five shades, sometimes even in “one-shade-matches-all” which rarely is the case.
They are often produced in two different formulas – one for normal to dry skin and another for combination to oily
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The Alphabet of Creams skin, but come either in one-shades-fits-all or only three versions – for fair, medium and dark skin tones. Moreover, Beauty Balms often have orange undertones that make them unsuitable for people with pink undertones to their skin. In other words, finding an exact color match is rarely possible. Depending on the brand BB creams promise different skin benefits – anything from whitening, brightening, anti-aging, anti-acne, oil control, soothing and repairing, among others, often all in one product. One common ingredient most BB creams have is built-in sun protec-
tion, varying between SPF15 to SPF50. However, in many cases this protection is not enough, because women tend to apply a smaller amount to their faces than when they use a regular sunscreen. “My only concern is that since BB cream is generally tinted, women use less on their face,” Manhattan dermatologist Dr. Heidi Waldorf said to Fashionista. Not long after the explosion of BB Creams, cosmetic companies decided it was time for an upgrade and the CC Creams were released on the market with bigger, better, and bolder promises. Unlike BB Creams focused mainly on skincare, the Color Correctors (what CC stands for) address coverage and skin tone correction more. In other words, they promise the same skincare benefits as Beauty Balms, but with added coverage. CC Creams can target different skin issues such as discoloration, redness, dullness, and hyperpigmentation, not only concealing, but also (according to the brands) reducing them with regular use. Different Color Correctors cater for dry, oily, pale, dark, red, dull or tired skin. The coverage they provide can be built to almost full, revealing a clearer complexion. However, same as Beauty Balms, the end result is not as flawless as when applying a full coverage foundation. Another common characteristic between the two is the limited amount of shades.
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The Alphabet of Creams Many CC Creams contain the so-called smart pigment capsules that turn into foundation in contact with the skin, supposedly matching the skin color. The problem is the range of tones they can turn into is not as wide as one would think and more often than not, they don’t match the skin perfectly or at all.
the skin, as well as protect it from the UV rays. Combining the benefits of both makeup and skin care, they’re a supercharged hybrid of the Beautify Balms and Color Correctors.
No matter the great promises BB, CC and DD creams make and do or do not fulfill, it is a fact that makeup artists prefer to use them as a base before applying and actual foundation on top for After the release of CC creams it was a matter of three reasons – they don’t provide all the skintime before DD creams were introduced to the care benefits targeted moismarket. In November 2012 turizers provide nor the a cosmetics industry analyst full flawless coverage of a predicted that that a number foundation and the range of of DD creams, called “Daily available shades is too small. Defense” creams were about “To me personally they are to launch. However, accordkind of like a shampoo and ing to him they were going to conditioner all-in-one–it be “heavy duty body and foot doesn’t give the exact finish creams.” you want,” celebrity makeup ~ Zornitsa Petrova, artist Nico Guilis told FashIn June 2013 the high-end makeup artist ionista. “I don’t understand brand Julep singlehandedly the craze around BB, CC proved him wrong releasing and DD creams and never recommend them to their Dynamic Do-All creams. They have not my clients. The more promises a product makes, one, but two anti-ageing ingredients and promthe more different issues it target the less effecise to not only make the skin appear better but tive it is,” makeup artist Zornitsa Petrova agrees. actually improve it over time.
“The more promises a product makes, the more different issues it target the less effective it is.”
DD creams promise to address fine lines and slow down the ageing process, to balance and even out the skin tone, providing buildable medium to full coverage, to brighten and hydrate
Nevertheless, the alphabetized creams are a hit on the market and thousands of women enjoy using them. The only question is what’s next. May be EE creams for Everything Else the previous ones don’t tackle?
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Ages of beauty
I
t is fascinating how much one can learn from the possessions a woman keeps on her vanity not only about her life, but also the history of her times. Looking back at the dressing table from the Victorian period there was no make up to be found because ladies were not allowed to wear it. Even a bit of rouge and a lipstick were frowned upon. However, there were vast amounts of skincare
otherwise. The First World War changed everything. Women had jobs because men were away, they were the ones driving the omnibus or working the farm. After the war ladies got the right to vote and embraced their new found freedom. In the 1920s corsets were replaced by straight up and down line dresses, the long curly hair was chopped off into a modern bob. Women started
Ages of beauty The history of women through makeup and beauty ads products, most of them promising a pristinely white skin. A tan, even a freckle meant one was a part from the working classes and ladies were being careful not be mistaken in such a way. Companies like Vaseline, Pond’s, Bourjois and Palmolive were born with luring promises of “the charm of a fresh, schoolgirl complexion” and “a skin of dazzling loveliness in spite of days brimful.” The less a woman did to her face, the more she did to her hair. Think of the Gibson girls and the piles of endless curly hair. Faux hair compensated the restrictions a lady faced in the period not only regarding makeup but also fashion. What could actually be found on a vanity during the era were countless tools having to do with getting dressed. The long and tiresome process often required an assistant. The epitomes of the Victorian constriction were probably the tools meant to powder and stretch a lady’s gloves because they were so tight they couldn’t be worn
going dancing, playing tennis, attending dinners. All that activity created a new gap on the market and soon deodorant was being produced on a mass scale. For the first time ladies revealed their ankles and bared their arms wearing the famous flapper dresses. Expectedly, they started worrying about the appearance of the skin showing and manufacturers realized that there was a fortune waiting to be made from female insecurities. Negative advertisements appeared a trend which continued throughout the 30s as well. Instead of promising women better looks or lovely experiences ads were pointing their complexes. “Are you smelly?” “Are you hairy?” “Do you suffer from unsightly sagging?” For the first time ladies were truly worried about their appearance. They had to be dainty. That was the buzz word of the period every ad stressed on. A lady had to be “dainty.” However, there was also fabulous freedom. The Victorian lady couldn’t smoke, couldn’t drink,
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Ages of beauty comes home and picking an outfit to meet the she couldn’t even wear makeup. In the 1920s all mother-in-law. of a sudden the lipstick that she couldn’t wear The 50s were the golden age of the compact ofappeared in every shade possible presented in ten in an elaborate novelty design. A woman beautiful packaging. Makeup was extremely never left the house without it. Applying a thick cheap and by the 1930s, thanks to chains like lipstick, while looking in the mirror of a beauBoots, it was accessible and affordable for everytiful compact, was an endlessly feminine ritual. one. Even during the Depression in the United The coated lips were complemented by a perfect States anyone could buy a ten cent lipstick that cat eye and heavily coated lashes. In 1957 Helwould make them feel better and possibly help ena Rubinstein revolutionized them find a job. More and makeup presenting the first more people wanted makeup. wand mascara. It seemed like nothing could The buzz word of the The buzz word of the era was stop it! era was “ladylike.” “ladylike.” The feminine forms Until the Second World and corseting from the VicWar began that is. Suddenly torian were back courtesy of makeup was not available not Christian Dior, but this time because it was banned, but women chose it. In a way they because there were simply had to because during the war ladies have been no raw materials for manufacturers to produce doing the men’s jobs but it was time for them to it. The rare products were found in emergency go back to the family nest and it was time for packaging often with a note inside apologizing them to have children. With so many people for the lack of a puff. Cosmetic companies startkilled on the front and the huge boom of manued catering the needs of the army. Max Factor for facturing, a baby boom was also needed. Ladies example was producing camouflage makeup. realized that there was nothing more attractive Cosmetics played a big role on a psychological than the classic slim waste, wide hips and pushed level as well. On all the pictures form the 1940s bust. After the austerity and modesty of the war there are girls wearing bright red lipstick. It the 1950s were all about feminine forms, perfect became a mark of patriotism, a symbol of the makeup, luxury and babies. will to win. All the lipsticks that were made durThings couldn’t possibly change more in the next ing that period had names like “Patriot Red,” ten years. The 1960s brought a completely new “Fighting Red” or “Montezuma Red.” People relook inspired by the teenage culture. The babies ally wanted makeup, while Hitler hated it. Actufrom the previous decade have grown up and ally all of the female members of his circle were there was a full teenage employment. One could banned from wearing it, which made applying leave school at 15 and walk straight into a job. makeup even more important for women. For the first time kids had money in their pockets The war was a time of severe shortages when to buy whatever they pleased. What they wanted women often had to do men’s work and wear was to have fun, not to look like their mothers. boxy costumes or uniforms. After having gone Actually the mothers wanted to look like them. through all that suffering they were desperate Teenagers became the look the epitome and icon for luxury and wanted to be ladies again. In the of which was Twiggy with her heavily lined eyes 1950s femininity finally returned turning beauand rolls of false lashes. It was all about being ty into a full-time job. It was all about being a young, a true teenage revolution. And we never perfectly made-up lady at any given time. It was looked back! about putting a lipstick on when the husband
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1930s Chanel No.5 ad starring Coco Chanel at the Ritz Hotel in Paris
The Mystery of
Chanel No.5
“A perfume such as had never before been made – a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent.” ~ Coco Chanel
T
he story of the legendary Chanel No. 5 has been told time and time again, but the mystery behind the scent and the name of the perfume remains. There are three different versions about the origin of the scent and several hypotheses about the meaning behind the innovative name of No. 5.
then being commissioned by the British to join the White Russian Army as a counter-intelligence officer, he arrived to Southern France. There he started working at the La Bocca laboratories, founded by some of his former colleagues from Rallet. That is where Chanel No. 5 was created. In a speech, cited in “Coco Chanel The Legend and The Life” by Justine Picardie, Beaux gave ~ Coco Chanel in 1946 he remembers:
“I’m presenting my dress collection on the 5th of May, the fifth month of the year; let’s leave the name Chanel No.5.”
The tale began in 1920 when Mademoiselle Chanel’s Russian lover at the time, the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich, introduced her to Ernest Beaux, the perfumer to the tsars. Born in Moscow, Beaux started working as a laboratory assistant at Rallet – the leader soap and perfume manufacturers in Russia, and suppliers to the Imperial Court. By the age of 26 he was the company’s technical director and held the position for 10 years. In 1919, after serving in the First World War and
“I’ve been asked some questions about the subject of the creation of No.5. When did I create it? In 1920 exactly, upon my return from the war. I had been part of the campaign in a Northern region of Europe, above the Arctic Circle, during the midnight sun, where the lakes and rivers exuded a perfume of extreme freshness. I retained this note and recreated it, not without difficulty, for the first aldehydes I was able to find were unstable and unreliable. Why this name?
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The Mystery of Chanel No.5 Mademoiselle Chanel, who had a very fashionable couture house, asked me for some perfumes for it. I came to present my creations, two series: No 1-5 and 20-24. She chose a few, one of which was No. 5. ‘What should it be called?’ I asked. Mademoiselle Chanel replied, ‘I’m presenting my dress collection on the 5th of May, the fifth month of the year; let’s leave the name Chanel No.5.’ This number would bring her luck.” Another theory about the meaning of the name speculates that the designer knew the numerological significance of the number five, representing the fifth element – the quinta essentia of which the cosmos is made.
Mademoiselle Coco Chanel and her lover Dmitri Pavlovich
Mademoiselle Chanel, however has her own version of the story that does not even mention Beaux. Towards the end of her life she often
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talked about No.5 as her own creation. Her close friend Claude Delay retells the story, saying that after Boy Capel’s death, a man Coco Chanel once loved, she ran away from her grief to the south of France, where “she took refuge on the Côte d’Azur (the French Riviera) where, breathing in essences and the fields of May roses, she invented the perfume – No.5 – which was to obsess the world. The name was a chance, not premeditated. She called it that because it was the fifth bottle and five is a pretty number.” Coco Chanel also talked about her childhood memories of the intense clean scent at her aunts’ home. The designer remembered the aroma of a place where everything was clean, the floors and furniture was scrubbed and polished and the linen cupboard was fragrant with herbs. “The sense of smell is the only one that is still instinctive.
The Mystery of Chanel No.5 It lives on nostalgia, the subconscious,” she told Delay. “You ought to wear your own, the one you like. If I leave a jacket behind me somewhere, they know it’s mine. When I was young, the first thing I’d have done if I had any money was buy some perfume. I’d been given Floris’s Sweet Peas – I thought it was lovely, the country girl that I was. Then I realized it didn’t suit me.” Maybe that was what Mademoiselle Chanel was seeking – a perfume that suits her. The revolutionary for its time blend of jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli, May rose, sandalwood and Bourbon vetiver, enhanced and stabilized by Beaux’s discovery of the aldehydes was the end of her search. It was “a perfume such as had never before been made – a woman’s perfume with a woman’s scent.” Unlike the rest of the scents produced at the time that had a single very heavy floral note, No.5 was a “bouquet of abstract flowers,” as Mademoiselle Chanel described it herself. In 1924 Beaux became technical director of Les Parfums Chanel. Despite this fact, when the designer was telling the story of No.5 to her new friend Bettina Ballard (young American editor working in the Paris office of Vogue) she didn’t mention the perfumer’s contribution. “She concocted Chanel No.5 when she was trying to recover in the south of France in the
Twenties from the accidental death of Boy Chapel. A maker of flower essences at Grasse let her make her own mixture to divert her. When she tested her fifth attempt, she picked up the plain bottle in which she had mixed it, wrote a number 5 in her own hand, and said, “Now I will sell this,” and she did, all over the world,” writes Ballard. Mademoiselle Chanel mentioned that one of the inspirations behind the idea of creating a perfume was the smell of dirt she could feel everywhere, even at the most glamorous places, such as Misia’s ap a r t -
ment. Misia was a woman so famous around Paris that everyone knew her by her first name. She was a muse for the artists, the Queen of the city. “I was appalled. It smelt
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For the first time ... No.5, a code, an identification number, makes the sentimental names for the perfumes of the day seem instantly out of the date. A perfume is presented in a simple laboratory flacon. No.5’s place in history is secured when in 1952 Marilyn Monroe reveals that she wears to bed just “a few drops of Chanel No.5” A man agrees to represent the most feminine of fragrances No.5. That man is Brad Pit. A perfume created in 1921 is still the bestselling and most famous fragrance in the world.
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like filth downstairs,” Coco Chanel said remembering her first visit at Misia’s home. Misia, however, has her own version of the origin of the scent adding another layer to the mystery of Chanel No.5. The muse’s magical fairy tale begins with her claim that she has met Lucien Daudet, secretary to the Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III. Daudet was a man devoted to the Empress and her beauty, possessed by her scent – Violettes Imperiales. “Just imagine, Misia,” he said one day, “I discovered an astonishing beauty formula among the letters of our dear empress. The faith she had in it is my biggest guarantee of its effectiveness. But you’d better read this document and tell me as a friend, since we’re alone, if it wouldn’t be possible to sell this lost formula to some cosmetics house – without revealing the name of the illustrious person who used it to keep her beauty alive.” The vague dramatic narrative is a part of an unpublished chapter of Misia’s memoir, which begins with the words: “Coco always had a genius for discovering the essence of something gigantic in the most minuscule idea suggested to her. If the grain of sand you offered her had some
The Mystery of Chanel No.5 interesting quality, she could turn it into gold. I should like to give an example that is almost miraculous.” The hazy story continues with Misia buying the formula for six thousand francs and giving it to Mademoiselle Chanel to launch the first Chanel eau de toilette based on it. She even takes credit for the infamous bottle of the perfume. “Painstakingly, we experimented with a very severe bottle, ultra-simple, almost pharmaceutical, weeks later, L’Eau Chanel made its appearance. It succeeded far beyond our wildest hopes. It was unbelievable, almost as if we had won first prize in a lottery! “Why don’t you really go in for perfumes?” I said to Coco.” Misia continues, “At that moment Mademoiselle Chanel, who at first considered the eau de toilette a plaything, had the genius to see the future possibilities of this new idea. And from the start her perfumes were so successful the Chanel No.5, No.22 and Bois des lles were soon in demand on all five continents. And that is how the sorceress, with a flick of her wrist, started with the miniscule idea The Secret of the Medicis had given me and created an industry of such importance,
that one by one, all the fashion houses followed her path. Thanks to her, they managed to balance their budgets during the years when they were threatened with bankruptcy.” Not to anyone’s surprise, when Mademoiselle Chanel read this chapter of Misia’s memoir she demanded it to be withdrawn from the book. It will never be clear whether the Secret of the Medicis really existed and whether Misia really had such an important role in the legend of Chanel and therefore in the fashion industry as a whole. The mystery of the scent remains unsolved for generations to search the truth about its origin.
Oh, l’ amour... Legend says, the design of the clean geometric bottle of No.5 was inspired by the silhouette of Palace Vendôme, which Mademoiselle Chanel and Dmitri could see from their suit at the Ritz.
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Professional Advice Makeup artist Zornitsa Petrova says that makeup should be a soft veil not a mask. By Plamena Zahova Zornitsa Petrova sits in a café near New Bulgarian University where she’s studying Pop & Jazz Singing between classes. Although the heat is hard to bear, she’s drinking tea with honey, taking special care of her voice. However, singing is not her only talent. In a few hours Zornitsa will be picking out brushes, liners and lipstick shades makingup models for a photo shoot. A hidden gem in the international beauty community, the 27 years old woman is one of the most talented make-up artists in Bulgaria. Zornitsa didn’t think twice when she had the opportunity to take on makeup. She says that choosing a profession dedicated to the idea of making women feel more beautiful and letting them reincarnate in different roles was both a rational and emotional decision. “I wanted to know how to apply makeup in such a seamless and natural way that it’s almost invisible. Gradually I started noticing the strengths and weaknesses in facial features and
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learned how to cover or distract from the flaws and enhance the beauty, how to turn defects into effects.” After her first makeup job as a freelancer Zornitsa never looked back. “I had to do the makeup of a girl graduating from high school, the air was charged with excitement” she remembers. “Being part of the preparations for her prom, helping her feel as beautiful as she was, gave me a paramount feeling of satisfaction. The rest is history.” The young woman believes that makeup is a form of art meant to enhance a woman’s beauty. She finds inspiration in the eyes of her clients because they reveal the character. “The facial features say a lot about one’s internal world,” she says. Even a planned out makeup look might change according to a woman’s momentarily radiance and mood. According to Zornitsa, the makeup should also go hand in hand with the attire and overall image a
lady is trying to transmit. However, it shouldn’t be used as a mask, but as a way to highlight the natural beauty and cover up the imperfections. “Makeup should have accents that capture the attention, but should never be intrusive. The more natural it looks the better it looks.” Although she is always on the top of the current and upcoming trends, the young professional believes that a woman should be led by the colors that complement and flatter her face and skin tone, and put fashion on a secondary position, when shopping for makeup and applying it. Zornitsa strongly believes that short makeup courses should become available to teach ladies the basics of maquillage. “Many women make fatal mistakes when applying makeup, such as caking up face products, which highlights even the finest lines or choosing the wrong shade of foundation that doesn’t blend well with the skin and ends up looking like a mask.” Zornitsa would gladly share her knowledge and take part in such an initiative. She clarifies that short courses are only suitable for amateurs. “Future artists need at least 6 months to get used to the brushes, colors and textures and learn the basics of skincare, brands, etc. In this profession you never stop learning, you simply cannot afford it. There is always a new product, a new trend, a new discovery and you should be on top of it at all times.” As a freelancer Zornitsa both works with women, preparing them for special occasions and with models on photo shoots. She says that these are very different commitments because at a shoot one normally has a theme and needs to stick to it, while with ladies getting ready for prom, a wedding, or any other type of event the artist has more creative freedom. “I really enjoy both but what I love the most is working at the theater where you have to create a whole new personality. Those jobs require a lot of research and preparation, discussions with the wardrobe department, the director and the artists. It is captivating seeing my work come to life on stage.”
Zornitsa loves every aspect of her job and has no intentions to quit freelancing once she graduates. She would really love to work on a movie set or a beauty shoot where she has the creative freedom to experiment with color, texture and application. “Makeup is definitely a form of art, and a very dynamic one. It is the art of enhancing beauty, boosting confidence, making a woman happy. Just as music it influences the mood, sets a tone, an atmosphere. I feel blessed to be able to provoke smiles in two completely different, yet in somewhat similar ways.”
Zornitsa’s tips for makeup like a pro.
5 main things every woman should know about makeup are: 1. The face should be very well cleansed and moisturized morning and evening. There’s nothing more beautiful than well maintained, glowing skin 2. The foundation should be a perfect match to the skin tone, not a shade lighter or darker. 3. Mascara, light peachy blusher and a lip gloss are fully sufficient for a woman to look and feel good. 4. When preparing for a night out, the day-time makeup should be taken off and the face should be cleansed before applying the evening one. Even then there is no need of too much eyeshadows or blusher. 5. Less is more. Always.
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5 products every woman should have in her makeup bag are:
5. Fluffy blending brush
1. Gentle cleanser 2. Moisturizer catering for the woman’s skin type 3. Mascara 4. Neutral lip gloss 5. Blusher
Sigma E40 Tapered Blending Brush £8
5 brushes every woman should have in her collection
5 extra brushes 1. Contouring brush
1. Buffing foundation brush
Sigma F80 - Flat Kabuki™ £12 Jemma Kidd Pro Half Moon Brush £15.00 2. Fluffy powder brush
2. Synthetic concealer brush
EcoTools Bamboo Deluxe Concealer Brush £5.49
Real Techniques Powder Brush £12.99
3. Angled blush brush
3. Angled eyebrow brush
Sigma E75 Angled Brow £8 4. Precise eyeliner brush
Sigma F84 - Angled Kabuki™ £12 4. Flat shader brush
M.A.C. 239 Eye Shader Brush £20
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Real Techniques Fine Liner Brush £6.99 5. Smudging brush
Sigma E21 – Smudge £6.50
To maintain the brushes: Wash them at least once every two weeks with a special solution or a baby shampoo and let them dry lying flat rather than standing to prevent the water from remaining in the ferrule weakening the glue that hold the bristles, which results in shedding.
M.A.C. Brush Cleanser ÂŁ10.00
Splurge on:
Skincare products and foundation
Save from:
Trendy colors that might go out of style next season
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Bust portrait of Nefertiti carved, plastered and reachly painted by Egyptian royal sculptor Thutmose
Emphasis
on the eyes Eyeliner through the ages
E
yeliner is one of the most versatile beauty products and a staple for millions of women around the globe. It is rediscovered and reinvented every season, reshaping the eye, creating a character. One flick of the brush takes the wearer from a strict professional to a sultry seductress, from an innocent girl to a classy lady.
The rich history of eyeliner began twelve thousand years ago, in 10 000 B.C. when men and women in Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia lined their eyes, using a mixture of minerals such as lead, copper ore and antimony (a toxic metallic element) not only for aesthetic reasons, but also to protect their eyes from the burning desert sun. The dramatic thick line around the entire lid was believed to protect the people from the Evil Eye and to bring the body closer to the gods after death. Cleopatra, the first femme fatale in history, knew very well how to emphasize her exceptional beauty, creating an almond shape around her eyes. The queen’s story has been told by the cinema numerous times. Actresses like Claudette Colbert, Hildegard Neil, and Theda Bara impersonated the woman known for her beauty and love affairs with the strong of the day. When the iconic Elizabeth Tailored played Cleopatra in
1963 her strongly made up face, heavily lined eyes and thick fringe left a mark not only in the history of cinema, but also in the history of beauty. People have always been fascinated by Ancient Egypt, by the legends and traditions, the mysteries and believes, and especially by the characteristic beauty. When in 1922 King Tutankhamun’s tomb was discovered it fascinated the world. The kohls discovered among the rest of the objects caused a true beauty revolution, especially in America where women have finally won the right to vote and started asserting their new found independence. Ladies began recreating the Egyptian eye transforming eyeliner into a fashion statement. Women finally felt liberated and reassured enough to
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Emphasis on the eyes apply makeup freely and inspired by the film icons such as Clara Bow, Louise Brooks and Pola Negri they created dramatic, heavily lined eyes. This was the first time it was called “make-up” outside of theatre and was advertised for the masses, claiming that the products would “make every girl a movie star.”
Drawing of Cleopatra 51 B.C.
Louise Brooks 1920s
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After being reduced to a minimal thin line close to the lashes in the 1930s the thick, dramatic eyeliner made a comeback in the late 40s to remain a statement for decades to come. The 1950s was the most feminine era of all when ladies, enjoying the return of the flattering fitted clothes and the new cosmetic products that flooded the market thanks to the technological developments of the war, would spend hours on end pampering themselves. Although most women were housewives, spending most of their time at home with the kids, beauty has turned into a full-time occupation and a complete face of make-up for every occasion was promoted. Eyeliner became a must-have tool used to line the eye forming and Egyptian almond shape or the infamous cat-eye, which was born in the 50s. Iconic actresses like the seductive Brigitte Bardot with her signature dark eyes and pale lips, the bombshell Marilyn Monroe known for her cat-eye and bold red lip and Audrey Hepburn who often liner her upper lid secured eyeliner’s position in thousands of make-up bags. The European 50s beauty icon that still influences women today is Sophia Loren. Her classic glamorous look was reinterpreted for the Dolce & Gabbana catwalk for the upcoming season. The brief the Italian duo gave to makeup artist Pat McGrath mentioned Loren as their favorite actress. The actress’s seductive red lips, strong black cat-eye
Emphasis on the eyes and full lashes were the ultimate inspiration for the models’ makeup. It is not only designers who love the classic 50s look. Some of the most loved celebrities turned it into their signature makeup. Fashion icon Alexa Chung and British singer Adele haven’t been seen without a perfectly flicked line on their lids. “When it comes to creating Adele’s red carpet looks, I like to take sreferences from classic styling, films, and iconic images, then reinterpret them with my own aesthetic,” said hairstylist and makeup artist Michael Ashton to InStyle. “This gives an end look that is polished and current, but also elegant and timeless.” The late Amy Winehouse was known not only for her talent and substance abuse, but also for her extreme signature look. The thick graphic lines and heavily coated lashes, inspired by the 60s created a daring, dramatic effect. The charcoaled lid and winged liner was made popular by Twiggy, the icon of her times.
Marlene Dietrich 1930s
The heavily lined eyes, also associated with the designer Mary Quant, inspired Peter Philips to create an exaggerated cat-eye for the Chanel Fall/ Winter 2009 catwalk show, which remained in history with its creativity and boldness. The Swinging 60s were referenced and reimagined in numerous Fall/Winter runways such as Kenzo, Monique Lhullier and Anna Sui where CoverGirl’s makeup artist, inspired by Twiggy, created a dramatic winged shape completed with dots bellow the lower lash line. The iconic model was the inspiration behind the makeup look for the Rag & Bone show, where the accent was a dramatic black line in the crease of the eye.
Lana Turner 1940s
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Emphasis on the eyes
Sophia Loren 1950s
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The 1950s and 60s were decades glorifying beauty, but things were not always as glamorous. With the outbreak of the war in the early 40s sacrifices had to be made and makeup manufacturing was among the first ones to go. However it was soon reestablished by the government because of the immediate outcry. People argued that just as sailors had their tobacco the ladies had to have their makeup and so they did. Not only did ladies claimed their right to cosmetics, but also found a new application for eyeliner. As stockings were limited and hard to find during the war the resourceful women used it to draw a line on the back of their legs creating the illusion of a seam. The complete opposite of the modesty of the 30s and 40s were the 1980s. Neon brights and heavy lines were decorating the eyes. Madonna was on top of her fame wearing eyeliner abundantly and everyone followed. A decade of contrast the 80s also introduced the minimal, voguish look of matte complexion, natural-toned shades and thin liner, which is still a staple.
Madonna 1980s
Emphasis on the eyes
Today once again eyeliner is not reserved solely for women. The so called “guyliner” exploded in the past years and it is no longer used just by homosexuals or transgender. More and more “redblooded” men explore the ancient makeup tool. Sex symbols such as Johnny Depp, Robbie Williams and Jared Leto, as well as rock legends like Steven Tyler, Ozzy Osbourne and Nikki Sixx have been spotted wearing messy liner with confidence.
however proved to be ahead of their time. Although the world is increasingly metrosexual it is yet to be accepted for the average men to put on smudged out liner before heading to the office. Just as common as lipstick and powder, eyeliner comes in a variety of applications – from liquid through gel to kohl. The color selection ~ Beth Ditto I countless and each seasons brings something new to the vanity - from Dior’s icy blue to Jason Wu’s violet. The makeup trends come and go every few months but black eyeliner remains a staple, a timeless classic that hasn’t change for thousands of years, connecting women through centuries all the way back to Cleopatra.
“Even if you’re only wearing trainers and a vest, eyeliner will instantly transform you.”
A few years back, in 2008, Superdrug announced that it will start stocking makeup designed especially for men, hoping that “these products will be bought by women for their partners, as well as by men themselves,” said the company’s director Jeff Wemyss. The “guyliner” and “manscara”
Cindy Crawford 1990s
Christian Dior RTW FAll 2013 BEAUTY lab 77