Asante 001 by fatima janmohamed

issue

number

001

february–april

2010

the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the

The central lounge and reception

The rooms and suites

Maisha Mind Body and Spirit Spa

The pool and garden view

asante issue number 001 february–april 2010

A WORLD AWAY FROM THE CITY

Just 15 Kilometres from Kampala and 35 Kilometres from Entebbe, on the shores of lake victoria, rests a resort of ultimate beauty, tranquility and peace. This newest addition to the Serena family is the perfect resort to unwind and escape the stresses of city life.

LAKE VICTORIA SERENA RE SO RT

PO Box 37761, Kampala, Uganda, Lweza-Kigo road, Off Entebbe road or Call +256 41 7121000, Fax +256 41 7121550 e-mail: lakevictoria@serena.co.ug your complimentary copy

EDITORIAL

Welcome Aboard! As the Cabin Crew Manager of Air Uganda – a member of Group Celestair – it is indeed my pleasure to wish you a Happy New Year 2010 on behalf of all the Cabin Crew. 2009 was a very interesting and challenging year for Air Uganda and I would like to thank you all for supporting us in building our airline. Air Uganda celebrated two years of operations in November 2009 and by taking onboard your comments and feedback we have strived to deliver an improved onboard service on a continual basis. In September 2009, we added the first of the CRJ-100 50-seater aircraft to our fleet, giving us more flexibility in flight scheduling.With its arrival we re-launched the Nairobi morning flights to complement the evening service, giving you more choice and the opportunity for same day return travel. December saw us expanding our network to yet another destination: Mombasa. Air Uganda now flies directly from Entebbe to Mombasa three times a week with very competitive fares. To reward our customers’ loyalty, Air Uganda, Air Burkina and Air Mali (all members of the Celestair Group) have recently launched a frequent flyer programme: “CELESTARS”. We invite you to join “CELESTARS” and gain rewards for travelling on any flights within Air Uganda’s expanding route network in East Africa. We value your patronage by choosing to fly with us and know that you have many travel options to consider.This can be seen by the fact that from your feedback and suggestions, Air Uganda has steadily improved the in-flight catering to better suit you. Our Cabin Crew are committed to making your onboard experience as safe, comfortable and enjoyable as possible. We shall always try to provide personal service, customer care and build your loyalty for our airline. We want to serve you in a friendly, professional manner in the hope that you make Air Uganda your airline of choice on all our routes. With our courteous service, unmatched ontime punctuality performance, the new “Celestars” frequent flyer programme and great value for money airfares, we in Air Uganda hope to provide more of your travel solutions in 2010 and become your favourite airline in the region. We look forward to welcoming you onboard again and hope you have a happy and successful year, wherever you may travel. Best wishes from all our cabin crew. Ms Julie Odur Cabin Crew Manager

CONTENTS

issue

number

001

february–april

2010

the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the

POLISHING THE PEARL

Uganda justifiably markets itself as the ultimate eco-destination.

WHERE SULTANS RULED

MOMBASA AND THE SUNNY SWAHILI COAST

A PERSONAL PEAK

DAVID LIVINGSTONE

THE BIRDS OF PARADISE

ROMANCING THE ORANGE

HEALTH, WEALTH & HAPPINESS

TIME MAGICIANS

TRAVELLING RIGHT

TASTES OF UGANDA

ARTS & CRAFTS OF UGANDA

When walking in Zanzibar you come to love those curves.

These islands have been a ‘barefoot luxury’ hideaway for the rich and famous for many years.

Mountains provide grand platforms to enjoy some of the world’s most dramatic views.

Cover picture: A beautiful bishop bird, fairly gregarious, nests in colonies and forages in flocks.

His numerous contributions to the geographical knowledge of Africa are without equal, even today.

Here, world records for the number of species seen in a day have frequently been set and broken again and again.

REGULARS 1

Editorial by Cabin Crew Manager

Book World

Air Uganda Flight Schedule

Healthy Travelling

Route Map

Do you wish to make someone love you forever?

Revenue is vanity, profit is sanity, cash flow is key.

Once you become consciously aware, then you learn to protect your time from being wasted.

Tips for surviving that airbus ride.

Air Uganda News

Offices

Tips for the Traveller

Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku

So if you’re visiting Uganda, don’t just stick to ‘safe’ western food – if you do you’ll be missing out on something special.

Uganda’s rich culture features a variety of traditional arts and crafts.

WELCOME ABOARD Publishers:

Editorial Director:

Rukhsana Haq

Editor:

Roger Barnard

Editorial Assistant: Senior Designer: Design Assistant:

Camerapix Magazines Ltd

Cecilia Gaitho Sam Kimani Fatima Janmohamed

Production Manager:

Azra Chaudhry, U.K

Production Assistant:

Rose Judah

Editorial Board:

Rukhsana Haq Jenifer B. Musiime Desire Barugahare

ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili is published quarterly for Air Uganda by Camerapix Magazines Limited P.O.Box 45048,00100 GPO Nairobi, Kenya Telephone: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5 Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021 E-mail: creative@camerapix.co.ke

Editorial and Advertising Office: Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited 32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942 Mobile: +44 79411 21458 E-mail: camerapixuk@btinternet.com

Correspondance on editorial and advertising matters may be sent to either of the above addresses.

Printed in Nairobi.

without permission in writing from

the publisher.

All photographs by Camerapix unless otherwise indicated.

country focus: Uganda

Pearl Photo © David Pluth

Polishing the

Uganda is a land of high plateau and

ganda has the widest variety of primates anywhere in Africa, including chimpanzees and the endangered mountain gorilla, while the remarkable 1,008 recorded bird species provide unquestionably the richest birdlife on the

heat-hazed lowland

continent. Much of the countryside is an extravagant, velvety green. Add the majestic

plain, game-filled

River Nile, the Ruwenzori ‘Mountains of the Moon’ and the vast expanse of Lake

expanses of savannah

Victoria, and it is easy to see why Uganda is known as ‘The Pearl of Africa’. Uganda justifiably markets itself as the ultimate eco-destination. Its gorillas represent

and, in the west,

perhaps the most powerful eco-image of them all. But there is much more to Uganda

high mountains that,

than this. With 20 national parks and reserves, Uganda arguably has a greater diversity

for sheer scenic

of wildlife than any other African country, and the scenery varies from the dry savannah

enchantment, have few rivals in Africa. But that’s just the start, says Peter Holthusen.

4 | air uganda | february – april 2010

lands of the Kidepo Valley National Park in the north to the rain forests of Semliki, Kabale and Bwindi in the south. The Republic of Uganda is a landlocked country which takes its name from the Buganda kingdom, which encompassed a portion of the south of the country, including the capital Kampala. The country is bordered by Kenya to the east, on the north by Sudan, on the west by the Democratic Republic of the Congo, on the southwest by Rwanda, and to the south by Tanzania. Uganda lies between latitude 4° North to 1°

Right: Women joyfully display vegetables for sale.

Photo © David Pluth

country focus: Uganda

Kampala, the sprawling Ugandan capital is the most handsome city set among seven hills South and longitude 30° West to 33° East. It forms part of the

The roads in Uganda are well-maintained with immaculately

East African plateau, dropping to the White Nile Basin in the

clean verges, and the easiest way to see the country is by a four

north. Although landlocked, Uganda contains many large lakes,

by four safari vehicle, travelling with your own private driver cum

besides Lake Victoria. Lake Kyoga, Lake Albert, Lake Edward and

guide. High quality lodges are now found in most of the national

the smaller Lake George lie in the Rift Valley and much of the

parks and game reserves. Flying by light aircraft between

territory to the south is swampy marsh. To the east is savannah

reserves, although expensive, has become increasingly popular

and the western part of the country forms the margins of the

as a means of seeing the country’s highlights in a single trip.

Congo forests. Generally speaking, the south is agricultural and the north is pastoral. Kampala, the sprawling Ugandan capital is a most handsome

Six hours drive southwest of Kampala, the Semliki Valley Wildlife Reserve lies in a flat crater bordered by the escarpment of the Rift Valley which rises 1,500 metres on the eastern side;

city, set among seven hills, with a wide range of comfortable

the dramatic Ruwenzori foothills to the south, and Lake Albert

hotels, al fresco eating places, exciting nightlife and one of the

and the Congo to the north and west. Habitats here include

finest public gardens in Africa. The city has plenty to keep visitors

papyrus swamps, lakes, rivers, marshes, gallery and tropical

with a cultural or historical interest occupied. The Kasubi Tombs

rainforest and savannah.

are a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural Site where four former

Semliki protects a variety of mammals such as chimpanzees,

Bugandan kings lie buried. The Bahai Temple, often called the

colobus monkeys, giant forest hog and leopard. There are also

‘Mother Temple of Africa’, with its panoramic views of Kampala,

populations of Uganda kob, lion, elephant, buffalo, reedbuck,

is about 6 kilometres north of the city. On Buganda Road and

bushbuck, sitatunga and waterbuck. Large wildlife is fairly shy

behind the National Theatre you can buy local handicrafts in the

here. Semliki is the only Ugandan park where visitors can take

African Craft Village. The nearby city of Entebbe is the home

night drives. Of particular significance to birdwatchers are

of Uganda’s international airport and the spectacular Botanical

16 species of the Guinea-Congo forest belt, which reach their

Gardens. Approximately 23 kilometres southeast of Entebbe on

easternmost limit here.

Lake Victoria lies the Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary,

In western Uganda, the Kibale Forest National Park is one of

while birdwatchers can make a half-day trip to Mabamba, a good

the most beautiful forest parks in Africa. Perhaps best known

site for seeking the illusive shoebill stork. The Ssese Islands

for its chimpanzees, it contains another 12 primate species

in the northwestern part of the lake is an increasingly popular

– the greatest variety of any forest in central-eastern Africa,

tourist destination.

including the rare blue and red-tailed monkeys and grey-cheeked >>

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 5

country focus: Uganda

Left: The endangered mountain gorilla. Below: Rüppell’s griffons are Photo © David Pluth

among the most gregarious of raptors – they roost, feed and breed in flocks.

It’s gorillas represent perhaps one of the most powerful eco-image of them all >> mangabey. Kibale protects virgin lowland tropical rainforest,

chimpanzees and a wealth of forest birds such as the

montane evergreen forest and mixed tropical deciduous forest.

golden-breasted starling, D’Arnaud’s barbet and red-billed

Among the over 300 bird species present are the African grey

hornbill. Further north there is excellent game-viewing around

parrot, black-billed and great blue turacos and green-breasted

Mweya. A launch trip down the Kazinga Channel provides an

pitta. The guided walking trails focus on tracking habituated

opportunity to see elephants, hippos, waterbucks and many

chimpanzees, and provide access to Kibale’s different habitats,

waterbirds.

with the chance to see birds and other primates.

In the early 1930s, the British explorer Sir Vivian Fuchs discovered fossils from the

South of Kibale, the

early Pleistocene period along

Elizabeth National Park

the Kazinga Channel, but it

contains a rich diversity

was not until some years

of ecosystems – acacia

later that prehistoric material

grassland, papyrus

was found. From the finds,

swamp, rainforest,

and from work in the Queen

flamingo-lined volcanic

Elizabeth National Park, it is

crater lakes and

possible to indicate a little of

magnificent scenery.

the prehistory of this area.

It is bordered to the

Fossils of water snails and

southwest by Lake Edward and to the northeast by Lake George, and has the greatest variety of mammals in Uganda, including sitatunga,

Photo © Peter Holthusen

spectacular Queen

elephant and great herds of Uganda kob. Among the primates there are black-and-white

other molluscs, crocodiles (which do not occur in Lake George or Edward), hippos (including the pygmy variety), members of the pig family and various fish, including Nile perch have been found. On the eastern edge of the Albertine Rift, the Bwindi

colobus, L’Hoest’s, red-tailed and blue monkeys. Twenty species

Impenetrable Forest National Park – one of Uganda’s UNESCO

of predator include spotted hyena, lion and leopard. Among

World Heritage Sites – holds roughly half of the world’s

the 568 birds are papyrus and black-headed gonoleks, lowland

remaining mountain gorillas. The rest find sanctuary in Rwanda’s

akalat, swamp flycatcher and black bee-eater. The Ishasha

Parc National des Volcans. This dense jungle contains another

sector, in the southern part of the park, is home to a population

10 primates, notably chimpanzees, black-and-white colobus and

of tree-climbing lion, while the Maramagambo Forest contains

blue monkeys. Around over 80 other mammals are present,

6 | air uganda | february – april 2010

country focus: Uganda

Right: massive Nile perch attracts many anglers to The Murchison Falls National Park.

Photo © Peter Holthusen

Fishing for the

Add the majestic River Nile, the Ruwenzori ‘Mountains of the Moon’ and the vast expanse of Lake Victoria including elephant, bush pig and various duikers. Clouds of

in the north, and offers some of the most spectacular scenery

butterflies are often seen at bush pig mud wallows near the

in the country. The park was briefly known as Kabalega Falls

trails. Bwindi is very rewarding for forest birding. Among the

National Park in the early 1970s, having been renamed by

over 345 recorded species are 23 Albertine Rift endemics,

President Idi Amin after the King of Bunyoro, famous for resisting

with 14 found nowhere else in Uganda. Birdwatchers should

attempts to colonise his kingdom. Here, the waters of the Nile

stay at least two nights in Buhoma – the lower sector of the

are forced through a narrow gap in the rocks to fall through a

park for gorilla tracking – followed by an additional two nights at

series of foaming, roaring cascades down a drop of about 50

simple, well-tended accommodation in high-altitude Ruhija. The

metres, creating one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls.

mountains of Ruhija hold localised species of bird such as the

The Murchison Falls is another good spot to see the rare shoebill

rare African green broadbill and dusky twinspot. Because gorillas

stork and the solitary hammerkop.

are Bwindi’s main attraction, lodges servicing the park are near the park office from where gorilla tracking commences daily. The Murchison Falls National Park is the largest national park in Uganda, covering an area of nearly 4,000 square kilometres

Fishing for Nile perch and tilapia attracts many anglers to the Murchison Falls National Park. The fast-flowing waters above and below the falls are probably the best places from which to cast off. The king of the freshwater fish is without doubt the

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 7

Photo © David Pluth

country focus: Uganda

>> massive Nile perch, while the much smaller, rather bony tilapia

Above:

which makes good eating, can be found on the menus of many of

A launch

Kampala’s finest restaurants.

trip down

The White Nile near Jinja has become known as the adventure

the Kazinga

sports capital, for the river here has several grade five rapids

channel in

which offer exhilarating white-water rafting at par with the

Queen Elizabeth

world-renowned Zambezi Gorge. All the rapids at the Bujagali

National park

Falls are named to heighten the anticipation, for instance: ‘Total

provides an

Gunga’, ‘Silverback’, ‘Rib Cage’ and ‘Surf City’. Jinja is located

opportunity to

at the head of the Napoleon Gulf on the northern edge of Lake

see Hippos.

Victoria and lies on the east bank of the Victoria Nile. The town is perhaps best known for being close to the source of the Nile.

Far left:

Even as it leaves the lake, the river is surprisingly large and it is

The magnificent

hard to imagine that it wanders north for 4,000 miles until it

Murchison

reaches the Mediterranean sea.

falls where the

In southern Uganda, the Lake Mburo National Park by

Nile drops 43

species include topi, roan antelope and giant eland. Jackals,

metres (141

leopards and hyenas prey on the abundance of herbivores.

feet).

A cruise on Lake Mburo may reveal crocodiles, hippos and aquatic birdlife. The park supports 310 bird species in its acacia woodlands, papyrus swamps, grasslands and on its open waters. Uganda has a fantastic climate, an ever-changing landscape and people who are honest, polite and genuinely pleased to welcome you. Whether you want to concentrate on Uganda’s primates, tick off Albertine Rift endemics, land a giant Nile Photo © David Pluth

perch, explore the ‘Mountains of the Moon’, experience the

8 | air uganda | february – april 2010

mighty Victoria

comparison, lies in dry acacia woodland. The 68 mammal

vibrancy of its people, seek adventure or observe the diversity of its game, Uganda will not disappoint. It will leave you with a deep sense of respect for the lands and the people who safeguard its wonderful natural heritage.

country focus: Uganda

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destination: Zanzibar

Where Sultans Ruled It was from here that Dr. Livingstone launched his expedition to the Zambezi and Victoria Falls; from here Sultan Sayyid Said ruled the Omani Empire; here where Britain first gained its foothold in East Africa; here too, a quarter of a million native Africans were sold to slavery. Tom Cockrem reports:

anzibar! It’s the kind of place you feel compelled to visit, if only for its name. The word ‘Zanzibar’ smacks of exoticism and intrigue. Did Bob Hope and Bing Crosby

really go there to make The Road to... film? If so, the town they were in would have looked just like the one that I was seeing now. Zanzibar is virtually unchanged in the last 200 years. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old Stone town, Arabic in origin, is a maze of curved narrow streets, some so skinny only one can pass at a time. The curves, it is said, are there to ensure the broiling sun can’t sting you for too long as you walk. When walking in Zanzibar you come to love those curves. Each one leads to what, for you, is a brand-new part of the ancient town. There are minarets and spires, and crumbling ruins; there are great hanging balconies, some overhung with tropical shrubs; there are sets of window shutters, some warped and flaky, while others freshly painted green, grey or blue; there are bulging whitewashed coral walls, and doors – fabulous doors – intricately carved with either Indian or Arabic motifs.The bigger doors are studded with sharp brass bosses, which in India stopped the elephants (of which there are none in Zanzibar) from rubbing up against them. They certainly stopped me from rubbing up against them! You are hot in this town. The temperature averages 30ºC; You sweat and walk, and sweat some more, and still you walk, always around the curves. You come to busy little streets, like Kiponda, where cloves amortise the air; you come to Baghani Street where curios and batik cloth are sold. You see the famed Zanzibar chests stacked in the doorways of the shops. They are exquisitely crafted from teak or mahogany, and lavishly embellished with brass. You would love to buy one. You come often to the foreshore – in the north to the ‘Big

When walking in Zanzibar you come to love those curves

Three’ - the Sultan’s Palace, the ‘House of Wonders’ and the 18th century Arab fort; or in the south to the grand white frontage of ‘Africa House’, its rear upstairs terrace giving hotel guests the same spectacular sunset view that its club members >>

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 11

destination: Zanzibar

>> got a 100 years ago. You are reminded that old Zanzibar straddles a peninsula which, located on the west of the island, points directly to the African coast 30 kilometres away across the channel. The island where the town is situated, Unguja (86 kilometres by 39 kilometres), is one of a pair that make up the province. The other is Pemba. Zanzibar now belongs to Tanzania but it didn’t always for Zanzibar once exerted considerable power over much of East Africa. In the mid-19th century, when Britain first became interested in Africa, it was from the Sultan of Zanzibar that they had to lease their land. The Sultans had been there for at least 900 years. Apart from the 16th and 17th centuries (not too long when you say it fast), when the Portuguese held sway, the island was their power base. Control of Zanzibar meant control of trade to India, Arabia, Persia and the West; control of trade in spices The notorious Arabian slaver, Tippu Tip, had around 10,000 African slaves working on his plantation. You can see his house in town. Of course, it has a gorgeous wooden door, complete with

(especially cloves), copra and in human beings.

pointed studs. You wish someone had rubbed him up against them – very hard. You can also visit the old slave market, a Mkunazini. A big Anglican Cathedral now occupies the auction site. But the dungeons are still there – small and almost airless. Scores of

Above:

people died here, as my guide informed me, just waiting to be

‘Their women,

sold. Only the strongest survived – just as the crafty slavers

segregated

would have liked. Slavery was abolished many times – in 1845,

and in purdah,

in 1876 and finally for real in 1897. By this time the island

dressed in

was a British protectorate, the Sultans having undermined their

simple Islamic

own authority through feuds and usurptions. The last of the

robes’.

long-serving Sultans, Say Caliph, was reduced to the status of a

Left:

figurehead. His palace is now a museum. Its furnishings, half of

Fisherman’s

them exquisite Indian pieces and the other half ‘contemporary’,

nets hanging up

reflect the taste of his two wives, Bi Matuka and Bi Nunu

to dry.

respectively. Between the palace and the fort is the imposing ‘House of

Top right:

Wonders’, so called because it was the first building in town to

Visitors might

have electric lights. It also had an electric lift, a ride on which

laze on the

necessitated prior notice to an engineer who would have to

coral sands,

crank the generator into gear.

lulled by the

Zanzibar is a Muslim town. Around 95 per cent of its

soporific surf

citizens follow Islam. A few are Christians and even fewer,

and the rustle

Hindu. Zanzibaris are a dignified people, hospitable and polite.

of the palms.

They also like to have some fun. On my last afternoon in town, my wanderings drew me down ‘big Three’ were getting freshly painted in a glowing tangerine. But my focus was elsewhere. In the Jamhuri Gardens across the road, a crowd had gathered, as they do around this time.

12 | air uganda | february – april 2010

to the foreshore yet again. The sun was big and low, and the

destination: Zanzibar

There was music, and hawker stalls were already doing a

leafy park, away from walls and skinny streets, Zanzibar was a

sprightly trade. There were barbecues – fresh squid sizzling in

very different place. Here was space for congeniality, or space

spicy oils, meat balls and kebabs getting dipped in spicy sauce. I

enough for me to notice it. There was a place to simply sit, as

was shown how to make my own chapati sandwich – laughter as

visitors and Zanzibaris like to do, to watch the sun go down, and

my meatball dropped into the salad bowl.

across Shangani street, to watch it painting crimson now the

I sat and ate. A string of promenaders, aglow with smiles, asked my opinion of the food – ‘really delicious!’. Here in this

Sultan’s Palace, the ‘House of Wonders’ and the old Arab fort. Air Uganda flies twice a week to Zanzibar

The Onyx Jewellers has been established for over 35 years and has earned the reputation as one of Kenya’s most prominent retailers of fine jewellery, precious and semi-precious gemstones namely Tanzanites, Tsavorites and Diamonds as well as exquisite handcrafted sculptures and carvings. Boasting a range of jewellery that is as diverse as its client base, our shops have over the years, been frequently visited by various heads of state, dignitaries and other high-profile personalities who have all enjoyed the Onyx shopping experience and regularly commission pieces that today serve as a continued testament to our commitment to, aesthetic designs, expert craftsmanship and attention to detail. The Onyx Jewellers remains dedicated to creating exquisite and delicately designed pieces of fine jewellery that would suit any occasion. Today these prestigious jewels and more are available from our shops at the Nairobi Hilton Hotel, at our fine jewellery gallery located in Nairobi’s ABC Place on Waiyaki Way and at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. If you would like to make an appointment or to visit any of our shops please contact us on;

+ 254 (0)733 786 117/118/119 or email: info@onyxjewellers.com

We look forward to seeing you!

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 13

destination: Mombasa

Mombasa and the Sunny Swahili Coast

Photo © Kate Nivison

By Kate Nivison

‘

his is a place of great traffic and has a good harbour in

the old merchants’ houses have been

which are moored small crafts of many kinds and also

renovated back to their Swahili glory days

great ships . . .’ This was how a 15th century Portuguese

– all dark wood furnishings, glowing brass and drifting

adventurer described Mombasa, and it is just as true today.

white draperies – with of course every modern

Kenya’s second city and East Africa’s largest port has a setting

convenience and delicious ‘fusion’ cuisine.

that sounds as if it has come straight out of the ‘1001 Arabian Nights’ stories. The heart of Mombasa is an island situated at a river mouth

The Old Town was always Mombasa’s main attraction, from the days of the great explorers such as Burton, Livingstone and Stanley, to Karen Blixen of ‘Out of Africa’ fame and her colonial

fringed with coconut palms and mangrove forests. The river silt

contemporaries. Renovations are continuing, and while it is not

created a break in the great series of coral reefs and white-sand

as extensive as Zanzibar’s Stone Town, the Old Town’s

beaches along East Africa’s coast, and for questing sailors,

atmospheric narrow streets offer lots of photographic

whether from the east or the west, the opening must have

opportunities in the form of fine old houses with their iconic

seemed like an invitation to explore and eventually to trade. That

brass-studded wooden doors, antique treasure trove

feeling of openness remains one of Mombasa’s most hopeful

boutiques and craft workshops. The highlights include the grim

characteristics. Karibu! (meaning ‘welcome!’ in Kiswahili), can be

old Portuguese-built Fort Jesus, the Dhow Harbour with its fine

heard all along the coast, and far beyond Kenya’s borders.

views across the creek, and other reminders of colonial times

Mombasa City has now spread well beyond its original island base, and modern port facilities dwarf the original Dhow Harbour by the Old Town. Business visitors or those looking for big city

such as the Mombasa Club, the Levens House (formerly Government House) and the Old Post Office. Other attractions in the city itself include the famous

buzz often opt for modern hotels, perhaps around Moi Avenue

ceremonial arch over Moi Avenue shaped like massive elephant

and Mombasa Railway Station. Those in search of something

tusks forming an ‘M’ for Mombasa, and many fine mosques,

quieter with a more traditional ambience before ultimately hitting

colourful temples and local markets. The oldest mosque in

the beaches may prefer a night or two in the Old Town. Many of

Mombasa (the Mandhry Mosque, 1570) is in the Old Town,

14 | air uganda | february – april 2010

Above: Shanzu beach, home to a wide range of World Class resorts with fine cuisine and beaches.

destination: Mombasa

and patches of remaining forest. Wayside villages and schools flit past among mango, banana, citrus and cashew nut trees, with new villa complexes marked by bright splashes of bougainvillea. At intervals to the left are the entrance gates to the many beach hotels large and small that have access to the long stretches of fine sands. The best known of these is Diani Beach, with high-end luxury on Chale Island at its furthest point. The road goes on to Msambweni and yet more resorts before it runs out at Shimoni near the Tanzanian border.

North of Mombasa The airport road leaves Mombasa for the north by the New Nyali Bridge where, understandably, there is no stopping for photographs. Nyali itself, with its famous beach, has now become more or less a satellite of Mombasa. Old Nyali is still

Above: Windsurfing along the North Coast.

as is one of the newest, the Ithna Asheri, with its shady

rather grand with its good schools and clubs among huge shady

courtyard overlooking the Dhow Harbour, and there are

trees, while New Nyali is an up-and-coming residential area

many others.

served by good shopping malls and other urban facilities.

Right bottom: Metal tusks mark the 1952 visit of Queen Elizabeth to the city.

400 kilometres (250 miles) of Indian Ocean beaches, the range

public unless stated otherwise by a particular resort hotel. Jomo

of accommodation is growing, with around 500 hotels along the

Kenyatta beach is less than 30 minutes from the city centre and

coastal zone. The first decision is whether to head north or south of

obviously gets very crowded. Now that much of the road north

Mombasa. Some claim the best beaches are to the south because

has been resurfaced, the journey time to the northern beaches

the reefs are further off-shore here than to the north, giving wider

has been reduced and is much more comfortable. Popular stops

stretches of pure white sand. On the other hand, the north has

along the way include Bamburi, home to Kenya’s largest cement

even longer swathes of beaches and reefs, although in many places

producer, with Mijikenda public beach.

For visitors in search of sun and sand somewhere along Kenya’s

It is worth noting at this point that all Kenya’s beaches are

the reef is very close to the beach. This results in considerable

Shanzu Beach has a line of resort hotels, often with shared

expanses of coral being exposed at low tide, making swimming

facilities such as pools and restaurants, ranged along its narrow

difficult at that time. To compensate, the northern coastal scenery

public sands and tidal coral foreshore. Sun-loungers are spread

is more varied. The beach-fringed low coastal forest skyline is broken

among the coconut palms, while troops of resident monkeys

at intervals by winding freshwater creeks, rugged promontories and

cause amusement and occasional havoc among the guests’

occasional off-shore islands,with sisal plantations and giant baobabs

poolside snacks and belongings. Itinerant Somali camel owners

along the road.

offer an exotic version of donkey rides along the sands.

South of Mombasa There isn’t a bridge from Mombasa Island across Kilindini Creek to the southern beaches, but many travellers consider that taking the Likoni Ferry is a holiday experience in itself. These venerable vessels make the crossing from where the matatu (minibus) terminal disgorges its passengers in a lemming-like rush down the slipway. If you’re in a vehicle, it’s worth getting out and hugging the rails for a panoramic view of modern Mombasa’s skyline. It’s also a fine opportunity to people-watch and reflect on the city’s more ancient role as a cultures. The road south is almost straight and flat, through the dappled sunlight of palms groves

great mixing pot for different ethnic groups and

Photo © Kate Nivison

destination: Mombasa

These islands have been a ‘barefoot luxury’ hide away for the rich and famous for many years >>

Further up the coast, the former port of Malindi, visited by the

diving and glass-bottomed boat trips to the better reef areas.

great Portuguese navigator Vasco de Gama on his way to the

Some of these are now protected, such as the Mombasa Marine

Indies, has some buildings of historic interest and a small museum

Nature Reserve or Watamu National Park off Malindi. Dhow

whose most engaging exhibit is a rare Coelacanth ‘fossil fish’

sailing, creek trips, deep-sea fishing and water sports are also

caught locally, now eyeing the world from a preserving tank. Also

popular.

fascinating is a large reproduction of a 15th century Portuguese

For a ‘1001 Arabian Nights’ experience, Kilifi Creek on the

map featuring the Indian Ocean, guaranteed to make anyone

north coast offers a sunset dhow cruise and entertainment at a

wonder how these intrepid sailors ever got home again to tell the

pretty mini-palace that was once the summer residence of the

tale. Of course, many didn’t and some of them are buried in a tiny

Sultan of Oman, complete with dancing girls and traditional food.

churchyard in Malindi by courtesy of the local sultan.

In Mombasa itself, sunset cruises round the Old Fort and up the

At the far end of the north coast road towards the Somalia border is the beautiful and largely unspoilt Lamu archipelago.

creeks vary from the sedate to full-on party mode. It goes almost without saying that in a country as famous for its

These islands have been a ‘barefoot luxury’ hideaway for the rich

wildlife as Kenya, many hotels offer drive/safari or fly/safari

and famous for many years. Clients usually fly from Mombasa to

packages for one or more nights. For a local forest safari

one of the small airstrips in the location such as Manda. This far

experience, Shimba Hills National Reserve is a reasonable drive

north, the climate is less humid and the skies more often a vivid

from the Diani Beach area, while north of Kilifi Creek, the Arabuko

desert blue, picked up by the warm clear seas around the islands.

Sokoke Forest Reserve offers something similar. For ‘Big Five’

Whether staying north or south of Mombasa, visitors who want

game safaris, flights from local airstrips go to Tsavo East and

something more than a poolside bar and a headset or book under the palms have a choice of several ways to make their holiday truly memorable. Water-based activities include snorkelling, scuba

16 | air uganda | february – april 2010

Maasai Mara National Parks. Air Uganda flies every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday to Mombasa

Above: Laid back Swahili coast style, near Malindi.

Photo ÂŠ Wikipedia 18 | air uganda | february â&#x20AC;&#x201C; april 2010

destination: Kenya

february â&#x20AC;&#x201C; april 2010 | air uganda | 19

Photo ÂŠ Wikipedia

20 | air uganda | february â&#x20AC;&#x201C; april 2010

history

David Livingstone The Life Behind the Legend

Text and images from Peter Holthusen

Left: An artist’s impression of an ailing David Livingstone being carried to his hut on the shores of Lake Bangweulu.

n 1866, Britain’s foremost explorer Dr David Livingstone, went

of LMS missionaries, led by Dr Johannes Van Der Kemp, had

in search of the answer to an age-old geographical riddle:

arrived in Cape Town on 31 March 1799. They found that all

where was the source of the Nile? Livingstone set out with a

the peoples south of the Zambezi were in the midst of major

large expedition on a course that would lead him through nearly

political and social changes and by the time Livingstone arrived,

impenetrable, unmapped terrain and into areas populated by

this had had a severe impact on society as far north as what

fearsome man-eating tribes. Within weeks his planned itinerary

are now Zambia and Malawi. Livingstone had arrived at the

began to fall apart, his entourage deserted him and he vanished

Cape on the way to Kuruman (in Bechuanaland) some 1600

without a trace into the African interior. Livingstone would not be

kilometres (1000 miles to the north), the station built and run

heard from again for two years.

by the veteran missionary Robert Moffat whose daughter Mary

David Livingstone had originally come to the notice of the

was to marry Livingstone in 1845. The young couple were

Royal Geographical Society (RGS) in London in 1849, when he

perpetually on the move, building three successive mission

had been the first European to cross the Kalahari and to stand

stations in an effort to establish themselves beyond territory

on the shore of Lake Ngami. He was born on 19 March 1813

constantly in dispute between Boer farmers and the local

on the top floor of the tenement called ‘Shuttle-Row’ in the mill

people, with the missionary in the unenviable role of ‘piggy-in-the

town of Blantyre, near Glasgow in Scotland, the second son of

middle’.

Neil Livingstone and his wife Agnes Hunter. They were a family

In 1849 David embarked on his first Lake Ngami expedition in

of straitened means, strict living and religious fervour. Largely

company with William Cotton Oswell, a wealthy big game hunter

self-educated, he qualified as a doctor and was accepted for

who paid all expenses and was to become a life-long friend. In

service with the London Missionary Society (LMS) – a Protestant

1850, Livingstone again visited Lake Ngami taking his wife and

interdenominational body with interests in southern Africa.

four children with him. In 1851, the same party reached the

When Livingstone arrived in Cape Town in March 1841, the LMS had been in southern Africa for 42 years. The first party

22 | air uganda | february – april 2010

Chobe and Zambezi rivers beyond which lay a ‘blank on the map’ which would have intrigued the African Association. Here spring

history

have placed him in the front rank of geographers. In his steady foot-slog across Africa he studied the lie of the land as it unfolded before him, fitting its features into the great jigsaw which was to become the map of Africa. It is often claimed that others – the Hungarian László Magyar, for instance, and the Portuguese Candido – reached the source of the Zambezi and crossed the continent before him, but it was Livingstone who recorded the geography and gave it to the world. What he saw on his 1851 journey convinced him that only by prospecting further north could he find sites for mission stations out of the range of Boer harassment. This was a task beyond the capacity of women and children; he sent his wife and family off to England and prepared himself for his great adventure. Collecting supplies in Cape Town, Livingstone set out alone for the homelands of Sekeletu, chief of the Makololo, between the Chobe and the Zambezi rivers. Here, he hoped to establish a mission out of the reach of land-hungry Boers. From Sekeletu’s capital of Linyanti he travelled west with a hand-picked group

Above:

of Makololo – companions, not hired porters – to prospect an

David

avenue of trade with the coast which might be the means of

Livingstone on

combating the slave trade that was beginning to penetrate inland.

his return from

It was in Angola that he first met this scourge of Africa, and

the Zambezi

coming back disappointed to Linyanti, he made his way down the

in 1864,

Zambezi . As he went he visited the great falls of Mosi-oa-tunya or

photographed

‘the smoke that thunders’, which Livingstone named Victoria Falls

by Thomas

after the British Queen – ‘the only English name I have affixed to

Annan, one of

any part of the country’, he later wrote.

the pioneers of

Conditions in Mozambique were even worse than in Angola, and

photography in

Livingstone reached England in 1856 convinced that his purpose

Scotland.

in life must be to fight the slave trade. He received The Royal Geographical Society’s Patron’s Medal for 1855 for his great

Right:

enlargement of geographical knowledge, and spent most of his

In perhaps the

time stirring up the British public against the trade in humans

most famous

which was destroying Africa.

encounter in

Livingstone was back in Africa in 1858 as the leader of an

the history of

expedition sponsored by the British Government and the RGS,

exploration,

dedicated to opening up the Zambezi as a highway into the

Henry Morton

interior. Circumstances were as unfavourable to his solitary

Stanley

genius as can well be imagined. He was to have six colleagues all

greeted

wanting directions and encouragement; there were relations to

Livingstone with

be established with the Portuguese authorities who controlled the

the question,

Zambezi some way beyond Tete (now in Mozambique). Livingstone

“Dr Livingstone,

had neither the gift for handling colleagues and subordinates

I presume?”.

(nor the wish to acquire it) and he simply detested the Portuguese. Moreover, the whole project was ill-conceived from a practical point of view. the headwaters of the Zambezi flowing south and east to the

The extent to which the idea of navigating the Zambezi had

Indian Ocean and those of the Congo/Zaire flowing north and

taken hold of Livingstone’s imagination can be measured by the

west to the Atlantic. The region contains a vast watershed

extent to which it upset his geographical judgement. He allowed

abounding in streams, swamps, rivers and seasonal floods.

himself to assume that the river was navigable as far upstream

It was Livingstone’s understanding of the nature of the ground he was to traverse, his careful notes and well designed maps that

as the Victoria Falls, although on his way downstream in 1856 he had cut across the country between Zumbo and Tete and so >>

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 23

history

Circumstances were as unfavourable to his solitary genius as can well be imagined >> had never reconnoitred the part of the river which contains the

reporter for the ‘New York Herald’ who had come to Africa to find

steep fall of the Kebrabasa (Cabora Bassa) gorge; the river was

the famous explorer, arrived in Ujiji and found a tired and broken

impassable at this point and the energies of the expedition were

man. According to Stanley’s journal, it was a day that would

diverted to the ascent of the Shire river into Lake Nyasa (present

change the world. Livingstone was wearing a sun-faded blue cap

day Malawi).

and red Jobo jacket like the Arabs. His clothing showed signs of

Many things went wrong: the steam launch from which much

being patched and repaired. The explorer’s hair was white, he had

was expected, the ‘Ma Robert’ (called after the African name for

few teeth and his beard was bushy. He walked ‘with a firm but

Mrs Livingstone), gave endless trouble; the University’s Mission

heavy tread’, as if stepping on thorns.

which was one raison d’être of the expedition failed to establish

Stanley stepped crisply towards the old man, removed his

itself on the Shire; Mary Livingstone died of malaria. Not even the

helmet and extended his hand, striving desperately to say exactly

ascent of the Shire and the geographical information gained on

the right thing to such a distinguished English gentleman. His

the lake could redeem the Zambezi Expedition which was recalled

greeting would become the most famous line in the history

in 1864, in time for the fatal meeting of the British Association.

of exploration. With a grave formal intonation, Stanley spoke

Sir Roderick Impey Murchison, President of the RGS, was one

the most dignified words that came to mind: “Dr Livingstone, I

of Livingstone’s few close friends and between them they worked

presume ?” “Yes”, Livingstone answered simply. “I thank God,

out a scheme for finding the source of the Nile, centring on Lake

Doctor”, Stanley replied, appalled at how fragile Livingstone looked.

Tanganyika (Richard Burton’s choice) as being the most likely

Livingstone revived in Stanley’s bracing company and together

origin of the river. Livingstone liked the idea of working Tanganyika

they visited the northern end of Lake Tanganyika and ascertained

into the Nile system, lying as it did within reach of a country he

that the Ruzizi flowed into and not out of the lake, which could

knew. He was to make his way by the Rovuma

not therefore be connected to the Nile. Livingstone became ever

river which was not in Portuguese territory and

more convinced that the Lualaba to the west of Tanganyika was a

which might turn out to be that highway into the

headwater of the Nile, and that somewhere at its source were the

interior (this was one of Livingstone’s fixed

four fountains from which Herodotus claimed the great river rose.

ideas) – in fact it proved as impracticable as the Zambezi. He was then to make

Yet, he doubted. ‘I am oppressed’, he wrote, ‘by the apprehension that it may,

his way to his own Lake Nyasa and so

after all, turn out that I have been following the Congo, and who

north to Lake Tanganyika. He left in

would risk being put into a cannibal pot and converted into a black

1867. The expedition was modestly

man for it ?’. His last journals are full of such self-communication,

equipped, but it was not thought

and while obstinacy hardened, confidence ebbed. He would not

that an experienced traveller like Livingstone, on partly familiar ground, need be away long. As things transpired,

take Stanley’s advice to return to England to restore his health. He was determined to trudge on until he found the Nile fountains. Unbeknown to Livingstone, he would never discover the source

he spent six years on his last journey,

of the Nile. In the predawn hours of 1 May 1873, in a village

drifting here and there in the wake of

near Lake Bangweulu, Livingstone’s companions found him dead,

the Arab caravans which traded around Ujiji on Lake Tanganyika,

to the coast for transport to England, one of his followers, a

isolated in an Africa ever more

tribesman named Farijala, who had once been a surgeon in

demoralised by the slave trade

Zanzibar, removed his heart and viscera and buried them under

and swept by disease. His

a sprawling Mpundu tree on which he carved his name and the

powers, morale and physical

date. The outer bark with the inscription is now preserved at the

Left:

began to fail him, supplies

Royal Geographical Society. He was buried in Westminster Abbey

The memorial

ran out, communications

on 18 April 1874.

statue of

with Zanzibar were cut, his

David Livingstone, on his own account, failed in many ways.

Livingstone in

porters mutinied. Livingstone

He did not find the source of the Nile, end the slave trade,

the Princes

was destitute.

or establish permanent missions in Africa, but his numerous

Street Gardens

contributions to the geographical knowledge of Africa are without

of Edinburgh,

equal, even today.

Scotland.

On 10 November 1871, Henry Morton Stanley, a

24 | air uganda | february – april 2010

kneeling beside his bed in prayer. Before carrying his body back

Photo © David Pluth

nature & wildlife

The birds of

Photos © David Pluth

paradise A

s you fly south from Europe across the deep blue bowl of the Mediterranean, Africa rises from the depths like a lifeless brown moonscape. From this great height, it is a brutal land. The sands of the Sahara suck the precious rain into the earth and the sun bakes its surface without respite. It’s hard to imagine any living thing surviving in this savage wilderness. But look closely, and you’ll see some remarkable life not only surviving but thriving. Where small oases defy the desert, bee-eaters, sunbirds, babblers, sandgrouse and scrub warblers quench their thirst and feed on insects and nectar. During the autumn migration thousands of swallows, swifts and other species will gather here

26 | air uganda | february – april 2010

to refuel before braving the vast Sahara on their way to the green pastures of their wintering grounds. Even the desert itself is alive with birds. Most of these are seed-eaters, although few can rely entirely on seeds, which contain very little water. Sandgrouse and Namaqua doves must drink regularly, as they eat nothing but seeds. This restricts their range and distribution. However, most desert birds supplement their diet with insects, allowing them to be independent of drinking water. These birds include an enormous variety of larks, wheatears and social weavers. Perhaps the most spectacular birds of the desert are the bustards and their close relatives, the korhaans. The Kori bustard

nature & wildlife

Right: A grey headed kingfisher in Kenya’s Samburu National Reserve. Further right: The crested crane, Uganda’s striking national bird. is the world’s heaviest flying bird, although unsurprisingly it is usually reluctant to take off unless it is absolutely essential. The male engages in astonishing courtship rituals that involve fluffing out its tail and neck feathers, giving the appearance of a giant cuddly toy. Then with wings drooping and head held high, the male struts around, sounding a deep resonant ‘wum-wum-wummmm’ which females apparently find irresistible. Africa’s change from desert brown to forest green is subtle. At this transition point are some of the richest birding sites on earth: the savannahs. Hornbills flit from branch to branch, fiscal shrikes survey the ground from their high perches, tawny eagles and augur buzzards soar on the thermals. In East Africa alone there are some 1,500 bird species. Here, world records for the number of species seen in a day have frequently been set and broken again, with tallies in excess of 300 quite common. One tour group advertises its bird excursions to East Africa as the ‘700 Safari’, referring to the number of species they expect to see in a short holiday – a figure higher than the entire British Isles, or almost any other European country. Birds have no respect for political boundaries. The gift of flight gives them the power to explore new lands. On a continental landmass, it is rare for any species to be confined to one country. The Great Rift Valley marks its passage through the lakes of Turkana, Baringo, Bogoria, Nakuru, Naivasha, Magadi, Natron and Manyara. These are names engraved on the heart of every globetrotting birdwatcher. The lakes attract avian migrants, together with a marvellous resident birdlife that depends on their fish and algae-rich waters.Each lake is different and worth a visit for its own specialities. Ferguson’s Gulf on Lake Turkana has an amazing list of rarities to its credit, including pomarine and long-tailed skuas from the Arctic and great black-headed gulls

from the great lakes of Central Asia. Nakuru is famous for the huge numbers of flamingos that turn its shorelines into seas of pink. Naivasha is one of the most exciting places that anyone with an interest in birds could visit; 100 species can be seen before breakfast with ease. The greatest rainforest in Africa stretches along the Equator from the Atlantic coast to Kakamega forest in western Kenya. This fabulous forest is rapidly being eaten away by timber and farming enterprises, but there is still a great deal of avian interest. Sometimes the forest can appear lifeless, then suddenly the canopy is filled with a mixed feeding party of a dozen different species. The splendour of some forest species must be seen to be believed. Among the greatest treasures are the turacos. Known as louries in South Africa and plantain-eaters in West Africa (despite the fact that they never eat plantains), the turacos are large, brightly coloured birds with exaggerated tails that they expand in flight or use to keep balance as they run like squirrels along tree branches. Uganda has a large and diverse avifauna. More than 1,000 species, including many migratory species from Europe or Asia, have been recorded. Given the relatively small size of the country, this number is exceptionally high. Human activities, especially forest clearing, have had an effect on the abundance and distribution of Ugandan birds. Some ubiquitous, open-country species, like the common bulbul (Pycnonotus barbatus) and the mousebird (Colius striatus), have been able to proliferate and to extend their distribution widely, but many forest species are now confined to small relict patches of forest. Until now, no species has become extinct, however, and >> birds are still abundant in most areas of Uganda.

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 27

nature & wildlife

Africa’s change from desert brown to forest green is subtle >>

One of the first impressions of most visitors, even the nonbird watchers, is the abundance of birds around Entebbe and Kampala. Small birds like sparrows, bright yellow weavers, metallic-blue starlings, and colourful sunbirds are everywhere. Woodland kingfisher, broad-billed roller, black-and-white flycatcher, black-headed gonolek, and Heuglin’s robin chat are common garden birds. Large fruiting trees in the middle of Kampala attract black-and-white casqued hornbill, crowned hornbill, great blue turaco, and Ross’s turaco. Abdim’s stork, black-headed heron, and hadada ibis are regular visitors on golf courses. Large birds like marabou stork, hooded vulture, black kite, and even African fish eagle are rarely absent from the sky. The marabou, the largest of all storks in Africa but also the most repulsive, with its large, fleshy pouch hanging from the neck, even breeds on some trees in the overcrowded city streets of Kampala. Outside towns and villages, birds are mainly distributed according to the occurrence of broad vegetation types. Most birds of the woodlands and wooded grasslands – the most extensive type of natural or semi-natural habitat in Uganda – have a very broad distribution, both geographically and ecologically. They range widely outside Uganda: some are found all over East Africa; others reach South Africa or West Africa, and still others are found throughout tropical Africa. This is the case with many raptors like the black kite and black-shouldered kite, the African cuckoo falcon, most vultures, the harrier hawk, the splendid bateleur eagle, brown snake eagle and banded snake eagle, African hawk eagle, tawny eagle, several sparrowhawks and goshawks, lizard buzzard, long-crested eagle, crowned eagle, and martial eagle. Vultures and large eagles are now mainly confined to the national parks, except for the hooded vulture and palmnut vulture, which still have a wide distribution. In the moist savannahs of southern and south-western Uganda occurs the black-headed olive-back, a small greenish, finch-like

28 | air uganda | february – april 2010

bird with a black head and a narrow white collar. It lives in rank, lush vegetation on edges of swamps, around forests, and in cultivated areas and has a very restricted distribution. In the much drier acacia savannahs of Lake Mburo National Park are found other interesting species. The most peculiar is the redfaced barbet, a plump, black bird with a stout bill, yellow shafts to the primary feathers, and a bright red face. It is a rare species, restricted to a small area of south-western Uganda, eastern Rwanda, north-eastern Burundi, and north-western Tanzania. A much less spectacular species found in the Lake Mburo area, is the tiny Tabora cisticola, a small greyish warbler with a fairly long narrow tail and a russet crown. It is endemic to Uganda. The bright blue Abyssinian roller, the large Abyssinian ground hornbill with its blue face wattles, black-billed barbet, whitefronted black chat, and black-faced firefinch occur all over the northern savannahs, from the Zaire border to Kenya. In the areas around Lake Albert and the Murchison Falls National Park are found many species from west and centralwest Africa, like the red-necked buzzard, which is mainly a non-breeding visitor to the area, Heuglin’s francolin, black-bellied wooddove, Bruce’s green pigeon, white-crested turaco, longtailed nightjar, red-throated bee-eater, piac-piac, Emin’s shrike, dusky babbler, red-winged grey warbler, white-rumped seedeater, and grey-headed olive-back. This last species closely resembles the black-headed olive-back, but most of the black of the head is replaced by a pale grey. In the semi-arid areas of Karamoja in the north-east – in and around the Kidepo Valley National Park – are found typically dry country species like the ostrich, swallow-tailed kite, the tiny pygmy falcon, fox kestrel and white-eyed kestrel, Clapperton’s francolin, stone partridge, kori bustard, Hartlaub’s bustard, white-bellied bustard, Abyssinian scimitarbill, red-and-yellow barbet, red-pate cisticola, and Karamoja apalis.

Above left to right: A grey heron, known to nest in colonies. The weaver bird, has the most elaborate nest of any birds. The strikinglycoloured saddlebilled stork with a blade-shaped bill. The Murchison shoebill, derives its name from its massive, shoe-shaped bill. The fish eagle, perches on exposed waterside trees.

nature & wildlife

The splendour of some species must be seen to be believed Uganda is especially rich in forest birds. They form a very substantial part of the avifauna and are one of the best reasons for a birdwatcher to visit Uganda. Some species have a widespread distribution, occurring in many different forests. Others are restricted to one, two, or three forest blocks, mostly along the western Rift — the richest being the Budongo, Kibale, Semuliki, Maramagambo-Kalinzu, and Bwindi forests. These forests harbour many central or west African species, which reach their easternmost limit of distribution in western Uganda. Especially in the lowland forests of the Semuliki National Park, which are an extension of the forests of the Zaire Basin, there are many species that don’t occur elsewhere in East Africa. These include the spotted ibis, Congo serpent eagle, chestnut-flanked goshawk, long-tailed hawk, Bates’ nightjar, black-wattled hornbill, red-billed dwarf hornbill, black dwarf hornbill and white-crested hornbill, African piculet, Gabon woodpecker, yellow-throated nicator, black-winged oriole, Sassi’s olive greenbul, bearded greenbul and capuchin babbler, northern bearded scrub robin, forest ground thrush, grey ground thrush, red-eyed puffback, pale-fronted negrofinch, and Grant’s bluebill. Cassin’s spinetail is known from only Budongo Forest. Montane forests harbour more species with a restricted distribution. The high-altitude forests along the western Rift have many species that occur nowhere else: the Kivu-Ruwenzori endemics. The best places to spot them are the forests of the Ruwenzori range and those of Bwindi. There one can find the handsome francolin, Ruwenzori turaco, Ruwenzori batis, white-bellied crested flycatcher, yellow-eyed black flycatcher, Ruwenzori apalis, red-faced woodland warbler, red-throated alethe, Archer’s robin-chat, mountain black boubou, stripe-breasted tit, purple breasted sunbird, regal sunbird, blue-headed sunbird, strange weaver, dusky crimson-wing, Shelley’s crimson-wing, and dusky

twinspot. The Tanganyika ground-thrush is restricted to Bwindi and the volcanoes. The dwarf honeyguide, short-tailed warbler, and Grauer’s warbler are found only in the Bwindi Forest.The rarely seen green broadbill is found in only the higher parts of the Bwindi Forest, mainly around Ruhija and the Bwindi swamp. The extensive and diverse wetlands attract a rich waterbird fauna. Most of the species of pelicans, cormorants and darters, herons, storks, ibises and spoonbills, ducks and geese, plovers, waders and gulls, raptors, and passerines known to occur in the eastern and southern African wetlands exist in Uganda. The African fish eagle is abundant, and some rare species like the rufous-bellied heron are also quite widespread. Some species typically restricted to papyrus swamps and virtually endemic to the Lake Victoria basin, like the papyrus gonolek, the white-winged warbler, and the papyrus canary, are also widespread. The striking shoebill stork is known from the Victoria Nile and the larger swamps around lakes George, Edward, Victoria, and Kyoga. It is a large bird, about the size of a marabou, silver-grey with a conspicuous broad bill. It can stand motionless for hours on floating meadows or on the water’s edge, waiting for fish. In the montane swamps of the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park occurs the very local, unobtrusive and skulking Grauer’s rush warbler, known from only a few places in south-western Uganda, western Rwanda, and northern Burundi. On the Semuliki River Hartlaub’s duck has been recorded, and along the edges of swamps north-east of Lake Kyoga lives the only strictly Ugandan endemic species: Fox’s weaver. Africa is a land of contrasts, beauty and delicately balanced ecosystems, which serve as home or resting place to great numbers of endemic and migrant species. So when you’re packing your bags, whatever you do, don’t forget the binoculars!

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 29

book world

Books‘R’Us

Featuring two large-format hardback coffe table books, portraying a journey through Uganda, acting as a stimulus to tourism, as well as being the ideal souvenirs of a visit.

Journey Through Uganda Size: 241 mm length 318 mm width Pages: 192 printed 4/4 with full colour illustrations Cost: USD 50.00 Uganda was described by Winston Churchill in 1907as the ‘Pearl Of Africa’. One hundred years later the accolade is still valid; the East African Savannah meets the West African Jungle. Journey Through Uganda takes you around this remarkable country, from the islands of Lake Victoria to the far south-west, home of the rare mountain gorilla, to the snow-capped Mountains of the Moon, through lush rainforest, national parks and fertile farmlands to the arid extremes of its borders on the edge of the Great Rift Valley. The superb photography is the work of David Pluth who has made many visits to Uganda over the years, recording the people, wildlife and spectacular beauty of the ‘Pearl of Africa’. The authoritative text has been compiled by Philip Briggs and edited by Roger Barnard.

Karamoja Size: 290 mm length 265 mm width Pages: 276 printed 4/4 with full colour illustrations Cost: USD 65.00

KARAMOJA Uganda’s Land of Warrior Nomads

Photography by David Pluth Stories by Sylvester Onyang and Jeremy O’Kasick

Karamoja: Uganda’s Land of Warrior Nomads stands on the edge. A work of 10 years in the making, this ground-breaking book of stories and photography brings into focus the proud Karimojong warriors and herdsmen of the remote semi-desert plains in north-east Uganda. Karamoja reveals both everyday and extraordinary scenes with the stark magnetism of photojournalism and the timeless beauty of African imagery. The photographs accompany dramatic tales based on actual events in the region. Follow the paths of such young warriors as Amaese, who is forced to fight for his family’s existence and to rid his kinsman’s house of evil spirits. The stories embody everything from Karimojong traditional religion to concepts of beauty and justice, from child rearing to the mysticism of the gun.

For more information contact: Books ’R’ Us LTD, | P.O. Box 45048, 00100 G.P.O. Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (20) 4448923 / 4 / 5 | Fax: +254 (20) 444 8818 or 4441021 Email: sales@camerapix.co.ke www.camerapixpublishers.com

30 | air uganda | february – april 2010

healthy living

Romancing the Orange by Shaheen Perveen

to a bath is believed to make one attractive. Because of its colour (an aircraft’s ‘black box’ is not black but orange for easy detection), aroma and flavour, the orange is a very appetising fruit. The most important orange derivative is its oil for essence and used in perfumes, candies, food products, and juice. Andulasian women (noted for their fiery glances) add few drops of orange juice to their eyes to make them sparkle. Because of the high concentration of nutrients found in orange juice it is commercialised as fresh, pasteurised, concentrated, with or without pulp and powdered. At its earliest, oranges (the bitter variety) are believed to

of their rind. They were treasured as perfume and also used in

orange peel. But if your wish is just to dream of your beloved

putting orange peel (better if you can procure the Seville variety)

at night, you can make it come true by carrying two pieces of

in a small pan of water and allow it to simmer on the stove. Your

orange peel in your pocket during the day. In any event, the

house will smell as good as a grove.

o you wish to make someone love you for ever? Trust the

have been used for the fragrance

orange – the golden apple of Hesperides. An elixir of love can easily be concocted with a few gratings of candied

flavouring. The sweet smell of orange grove can be created by

orange boasts a long record of appreciation, and is traditionally

For all the attention the orange has attracted throughout its

regarded as a symbol of fecundity. Orange blossoms are tucked

long history, the controversy regarding its birthplace remains

to bridal head-dresses, bouquets and even the wedding cakes.

unsettled. Perhaps, as some historians believe, the orange tree

After all, Zeus had presented Hera with an orange at their

is native to southern China or Indo-China. It has also been argued

wedding.

that the orange first saw the light of day beyond Mohenjodaro.

On a more everyday basis, the versatility of the orange is

From there, the seeds were purportedly taken north and south

virtually limitless – orange juice, fresh or frozen, orange in

in Sumeria. The theory has also been advanced that the orange

cakes and puddings, orange in sauces, orange liqueur,

originated in the Malay archipelago and then migrated to India,

orange essential oil... surely, the orange deserves to be

the eastern coast of Africa and the Mediterranean region. The

taken seriously.

Japanese believe that the orange was brought from the eternal

Roman naturalist, Pliny the Elder, spoke of citrus as a medicinal fruit, antidote, moth repellent and source of aroma.

land at the request of their Emperor. Oranges are eaten as emblems of good fortune on the second

He was the first to use the word ‘citrus’. One of the earliest

day of the Chinese New Year. It is revered as a sacred, heavenly

scientific treatises on the citrus fruits was presented by the 12th

fruit responsible for everlasting life. Greatly helped by the Roman

century Chinese who suggested that the peel of the chu (orange)

conquests, the opening of the Moslem trade routes, and Islamic

was very good when prepared and used as a tonic. A Roman

expansion, the golden fruit began to spread. And in 1399, the

Jesuit, Ferrarius in 1646 recorded interesting juicy orange

orange was the peer of the distinguished delicacies that graced

anecdotes of his times. He mentions the use of orange flowers

the banquet table at the coronation of King Henry IV. A guest in

(by fermentation) as a remedy for the heart and the production of

Imperial Rome could evaluate himself by the number of oranges

snuff from the orange rind. Fresh or dried orange flowers added

placed on the host’s table.

32 | air uganda | february – april 2010

Few species, however, are as extensively cultivated as the

Orange juice is specially

mandarin and the common sweet China orange varieties. Much

recommended for winter months

before the sweet orange made its debut, the sour variety had

to ensure a regular supply of

travelled throughout and was equally well received. Seville (Spain)

Vitamin C. Prefer honey to sugar if

is still famous for the bitter variety. These bitter oranges are

a sweetener is desired. When one is not

exported to England where they

able to digest anything, orange juice

are processed for marmalade and

can be considered as it exerts the

medicinal uses.

least pressure on the stomach while transforming it into body elements.

Vasco da Gama’s return to Portugal after the discovery of the

In fact, the orange refreshes the

sea route produced a superior kind

body and purges the system of toxic

of sweet orange. The Portuguese

substances that feed on the blood and

orange was referred to as ‘China

muscles of the human structure and

orange’ and was popular throughout

are the root causes of excessive thirst.

Europe. In Greece it is still called

Orange juice can also be mixed with barley. It is used in rituals in place

Portukali.

of wine.

Too exotic to be afforded, the

Unripe oranges are believed to

orange rested its laurels until it began to make an appearance in

benefit the teenage pimples and adult

English theatres, where Elizabethan

acne. After extracting the pips, dry

young women sold them to the

them in the sun and grind them. Milk is

audiences. Baskets filled with

added to make paste which is applied

colourful oranges became part

on the eruptions. Those suffering from

of the theatre setting, and so

bronchitis can place a split orange

remained for a long time. The

in a saucepan. Stir in a teaspoon of

first greenhouses were called

raw honey and a quarter cup of extra

‘orangeries’ because the fruit

orange juice. Simmer until very soft.

becomes damaged by frost and so

Consume the whole preparation,

the nobles of Europe would not risk

including the skin, twice daily. Varicose veins can be prevented by the intake

such a delicious fruit. The orange has a modest mineral content. One cup of orange juice provides up to two times your daily Vitamin C requirement (60 milligrammes) which disables the free radicals that harm

of orange peel. The peel can be made palatable if it is drunk as orange wine. Cellulose of oranges or lemons impart a laxative effect and for

the blood vessel linings. A cup of

this reason the Mediterranean people

frozen orange juice provides around

prefer the white peel. They remove the

100 microgrammes of folic acid,

outer rind while leaving the white peel

which is vital to pregnant women,

intact on the orange and consume it

as it reduces the risk of premature

together with the fruit.

delivery and of birth defects. Orange

Mughal King, Mohammad Shah

juice lowers the blood levels of

Rangila was fond of oranges and after

homocysteine – an amino acid

procuring the best ones, he got them

linked to an increased risk of heart

peeled and immersed the pulp in syrup

disease and stroke. Besides being

so that it absorbed sweetness and ate

a cardiac medicine, orange juice is

it after three hours. Oranges, if kept

also a hepatic tonic that provides

in an earthen pot in ice for sometime,

a sense of well being by purifying

become exquisitely fragrant. Teeth can

the blood and keeping in control the

be saved from the effects of acidity if

extra production of bile in the liver.

oranges are taken along with a pinch of

Intake of orange juice also controls

salt and pepper.

high blood pressure as it is rich in

Not to worry if you have consumed

potassium that helps to maintain

too many oranges. Any such indigestion

the body’s proper fluid balance and

can be counteracted by taking salt

to transfer nutrients to the cells.

or jaggery.

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 33

biz sense

The simple route to a business’s

health, wealth & happine$$ At heart all healthy businesses are trying to do the same thing, says David Ollerhead.

inguists today think that all languages have the same

the very existence of management consultants who are geared

purpose and deep structure; and are, at heart, doing the

to consulting in any sector where managers need assistance

same thing.This appears to be true of healthy businesses

or guidance, is perhaps the most decisive evidence of all thus

too. All healthy businesses have the same purpose: to grow

‘management skill’ is a tangible, discrete and specific thing which is

and maximise profitability within the markets in which they are

basically sector-independent.

operating. There’s plenty of practical empirical evidence to

Further evidence that healthy businesses are all doing much the

suggest that healthy businesses also share common structures

same thing is found in how brands operate. Major brands positively

and the way they organise their activities.

exult in their ability to win a presence in markets that on the face

Management skills, are thus widely regarded as transferable between different vertical sectors. Senior executives tend to be recruited (or appointed to Boards) based on their successes

of it are disparate but in practice tend to become linked when a brand successfully establishes a loyal, enthusiastic, customer base. Taking two examples, the Virgin brand (including music, travel,

in roles where by it is their positive impact on a particular

publishing, financial services and soft drinks) has come to be

organisation that matters rather than the sector in which the

associated with fun, youthfulness, value for money and Richard

organisation operates. This suggests that healthy businesses

Branson, while the Saga brand (including travel, publishing,

have in common, organic things which good managers can

financial services) is seen by many adherents as signifying reliability,

consistently nurture and develop, whatever the nature of the

good quality, and a square deal for the over-50s. Brand-loyal

vertical sector where the business operates.

customers willing to buy from more than one and very possibly all

Similarly, university and business school courses focus on management skills in a general sense. ‘Serial entrepreneurs’

the different businesses under one particular brand obviously feel that the brand is more important than what’s being sold.

are, by definition, fabled for their expertise at forming, growing

The science of linguistics that originated the idea of, deep

and then selling businesses in a wide variety of sectors. Indeed,

down, all languages being the same is a fascinating science,

34 | air uganda | february – april 2010

biz sense

•

Compromising the need for the business to supply products and services to the required (rather than excessive) level of quality.

•

Incurring costs that make supplying the products and services unprofitable.

•

Reducing prices to a level where supplying the product or service becomes unprofitable. How does a healthy business achieve these vital objectives?

Ultimately, the very nature of what a healthy business actually is suggests there can only be one answer to this question. The only way for a business to sell more products and services to more customers is to have a total focus on its customers. The fact that this answer, baldly stated, sounds straightforward does not make it any easier to achieve, or lessen its importance. The first challenge in achieving this vital customer focus is knowing who your customers are, which includes your existing customers (i.e. the ones you’ve won already) and also your potential customers (i.e. the ones you could win). The second challenge is knowing what your existing and potential customers but ultimately simply an academic pursuit. Business, on the

need, at least in the context of what you are able to sell to them.

other hand, powers the world’s wealth and is, for most people,

This challenge may well be more difficult than the former, but

the source of their income and economic security. Big-picture

mastering this second challenge is vital to your success, because

conclusions about businesses and how they work consequently

until you truly understand what your customers need, it is always

have massive implications for all of us.

possible that:

The route to growing and maximising profits is to sell more products or services to more customers, given that neither the

•

business nor its customers will want there to be any negative changes in the quality of the products or services being delivered.

actually want, or that are not enough to customers’ wants. •

Equally important, in the case of a service, the business will not

You might be focusing on irrelevant issues (e.g. costdiscounting things customers don’t really want) instead of

want customers to be over-serviced, which will increase the quality of what is being supplied but make supplying it much less

You might be offering customers things that they don’t

getting to grips with finding out what customers do want. •

You might start improving areas of your business that have

profitable. The organisation will also want to sell more things to

no ultimate effect on customers and the improvement of

more customers without disproportionately increasing the time

which will therefore not lead to you selling more things to

taken to supply what is being sold.

more customers.

For healthy businesses, a melodious and useful mantra is: ‘Revenue is vanity, profit is sanity, cash-flow is key’. Chasing

The third challenge, once you know what your customers do

revenue for its own sake makes no sense if the revenue does

want from you, is to work out how you can meet these needs by

not come accompanied by a healthy profit and a correspondingly

profitably producing goods and services as efficiently as possible.

healthy and positive cash-flow. Above all, it makes no sense for a business to succeed in its

The fourth challenge is the need to commit yourself to ensuring that your responses to the first three challenges are

aim of selling more products or services to more customers

subjected to a continual state of interrogation that involves

unless the business can do so without disproportionately

making sure your responses are undergoing a continual state of

increasing the cost of supplying what is being sold. Similarly, the

improvement.

business will want to avoid disproportionately reducing the prices

The four challenges are fairly easily stated but by no

of what is being sold. Selling more things to more customers by

means easy to meet. They involve, above all, establishing and

slashing the price (such as through a ‘buy one get one free’ offer)

maintaining a focus on your customers rather than on internal

can easily reduce profit and so be self-defeating.

matters at the business or on your own personal concerns. But

Within the constraints of these qualifications, the aims of

businesses that really do rise to the challenges – businesses that

healthy businesses are clear. All healthy businesses are trying to

become, in effect, experts at focusing on customer needs – can

sell more things to more customers without:

enjoy prodigious success.

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 35

feature

TIME Magicians Can we achieve more with our time? asks Kevin Abdulrahman

You will become aware and amazed as to how you are spending your time. Once you become consciously aware, then you learn to protect your time from being wasted.

Plan in advance Successful people plan their months, weeks, days and hours in advance. By planning in advance they save themselves from wasting time, not knowing what to do next. They reduce the amount of time they spend frustrated and overwhelmed because they simply follow a list of pre-planned events.

80/20 Principle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; busy versus productive There is a difference between being busy and being productive. So many people are caught up being busy. Being busy is being robbed of your time with no return. Being productive is utilising your time to achieve your goals. Most people live under stress. They are overworked, overwhelmed and feel under rewarded. This is because they put too much energy into tasks that generate little value towards their desired end result. In many instances, only 20 per cent of your work is getting 80 per cent of your results. With that in mind, figure out what 20 per cent of your day to day work gives you 80 per cent of your bottom line. Focus on that.

Prioritise, eliminate, systemise and delegate What can I eliminate? Elimination is fun and yet difficult. Fun because you will remove the clutter from your life.

ne of the obvious themes amongst those who are winning their games in life is that they are able to achieve so much with their days. How is it that a few seem to

Difficult because you will not be used to having so much free time once you correctly apply this method. What can I systemise? Of the tasks that remain, what can be systemised? For example, could you have an auto responder

achieve an enormous amount of work whilst the majority remain

setup on your email to confirm the receipt of emails on behalf of

frustrated by their lack of achievement? Why is it that a few

you, rather than have you reply to every single one of them?

seem to be able to fit in work, family, sports and friends with

What can I delegate? What tasks donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t require your level of

ease, whilst many fail to even cope on one of these aspects

expertise? What can you delegate that will not be affected if you

alone?

have someone else do it. If it is making customer service calls

How do these magicians of time achieve what they set out to do? What is it that they do? They use the art of effective time management. Let me share

or getting the cleaning done around the house, could you have someone else take care of that whilst you focus on what you do best to achieve maximum results.

with you six tips to help you become more effective with your time.

What can I prioritise? With the tasks you have left to do,

Apply these six tips and you will see the difference in your results.

prioritise everything you do and ask yourself what actions you need to take, to get the results you desire. Prioritise them in

Be aware of your time Successful people are aware of their time. The question you must first reflect on is, how are you spending your hours? For the

order and get working on them. Spend your time working on high value activities before attending to low value activities. You must ask yourself, what is worth doing? What can I

next week, get your diary and note exactly how you are spending

cut back on? How can I remove the clutter that is bogging

your time. Split your time in segments of 30 minutes using an

me down? What should I focus my attention on? Working on

alarm timer on your watch or mobile phone. Take notes of what

your best 20 per cent should see you increase your results

you have done during each period.

dramatically.

36 | air uganda | february â&#x20AC;&#x201C; april 2010

feature

Get the worst out of the way first It is easy to remain in the cycle of being busy because it is a habit and an easy to do so. The tasks that result in our being productive are the tasks we tend to put off. If you are fearful of something, or are feeling like you are putting off an important action, then you must do it first. Get it out of the way.

Drop your excuses Be true to yourself. Ask yourself, ‘to achieve what my heart desires, am I taking the actions that I need to be taking?’ If you are not, you can actively do something about it. You already know people who achieve so much in the same 24 hours that you live. The proof is already there. Successful people take action. Use the knowledge to start achieving more. So in closing, remember to be assertive with your time. Respect your time for others to respect it. Protect your time for others to protect it. Do what only really matters. Do the above and you will be well on your way to achieving more in your life. https://www.KevInspire.com

Once you become consciously aware, then you learn to protect your time from being wasted

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 37

travelling

Travelling Right

s air travel becomes ever more like taking a trip down the high street, Graham Hancock offers six suggestions for surviving that airbus ride. International jet travel can be an exhausting business. It’s not just the flying for hours and hours – which is bad enough – but also what happens to you after you get to your destination. Arriving in a country you’ve never visited before

can be like landing on the moon. The disorientation gets much worse if you’re also jet-lagged, or just plain pooped. However, there are things you can do to make both the going and the getting there easier. Over the 20 years of heavy-duty travel (including numerous visits to East Africa), I’ve developed a number of hard-fast rules to minimise the aggravation.

Rule number one is always travel light. Nothing makes

10, you just don’t require all those changes of clothes and other

a journey more unpleasant and difficult than a 20-kilogramme

gear that you usually take with you. And if that’s true then you

suitcase (except, of course, a 30-kilogramme suitcase). The

don’t require a suitcase either.

problems begin the minute you start trying to lug your bags to the

I travel only with my briefcase (for papers) and a soft squashy

airport: blistered hands, sore back, bruised shins, aching arms,

shoulder bag into which I can get five shirts, five changes of

shortage of breath, perspiration – and that’s before you get to the

underwear, five pairs of socks, a couple of pairs of slacks and,

front door!

when visiting Uganda, a woolly or two to ward off the chill in the

Then you have to check it in (excess baggage charges if you’re

evenings. I wear a lightweight washable suit onto the plane (I’ve

over your allowance). Then, when you’re airborne, you always find

rarely found I need two suits with me) and usually don’t bother to

there’s some item or other in the hold that you would really like to

bring a spare pair of shoes.

have in the cabin with you. And finally, when you arrive, there’s the worry that your suitcase might have gone elsewhere (you’ve heard the stories – breakfast in London, lunch in New York, baggage in Buenos Aires). At the very least you’re going to have to hang around the

Even for trips lasting two weeks or more this minimal wardrobe is enough to suffice – I’ve never been in a backwater so remote that I couldn’t get laundry done by someone. The great advantage is mobility and speed – with just hand baggage you can afford to check in later than you otherwise might and, of course, you’re off the plane and straight out of the

conveyor belt with all the other passengers waiting for the

airport at the end. But there are definite psychological benefits

luggage to turn up – and depending on the efficiency of the

as well.

airport this can involve anything from minutes to hours. If it’s hot

Unencumbered, you feel – and in fact are – less vulnerable

(Khartoum in August) or cold (London in January with the central

to hustlers. You don’t need to depend on porters and, if you

heating broken down), then the waiting time can be very

don’t like the look of the first taxi driver you see you

uncomfortable. And the problems don’t end here.

can always walk over and start bargaining with the

You still have the ordeal of customs ahead of you (if the

second. All this means you’re more in control –

customs officer got out of bed on the wrong side that morning

and that’s important when you’re arriving for

you might end up having to repack your suitcase completely; and

the first time in a strange place.

you can almost be sure that you won’t be able to close it properly). Thus, flustered, tired, hot (or cold), bruised and blistered,

Rule number two is for people like me who wear glasses.

you emerge from the airport clutching your

Always, always take a spare pair with you when you travel abroad.

bulging suitcase and in no state to resist the

If you have only the one pair and they get broken in Ouagadougou

various hustlers, grifters and crooked taxi drivers lying in wait for you. Ask yourself if you need

or, for that matter, Washington DC, then you’re letting yourself in for major inconvenience and possibly major expense as well. In some destinations – Far East is a good example – you can get a

all this (you don’t) and

replacement pair of spectacles made up quickly

resolve next time to travel

and cheaply but even there you’re going to have

with hand baggage only.

to do without them for atleast 48 hours.

If you think about what

In remote rural areas you simply won’t be

you’re doing before you

able to get a replacement – and the shorter

start packing you’ll realise that for nine trips out of

38 | air uganda | february – april 2010

sighted you are the more crippling that will be.

The solution, as I say, is to bring along a spare pair (in fact I’m

There’s another benefit too: unlike meat, vegetables are low in

so obsessional about this that I usually bring two spare pairs).

saturated fats and there’s now a lot of evidence to suggest that avoiding saturated fats before and during long air journeys helps

Rule number three is that you should carry at least a

cut the effects of jet lag down to size.

dozen small passport-sized photographs of yourself in your wallet. This rule is for any traveller in Africa who intends to visit not only cities but also the provinces. Remember that many African states (often with good reason)

Rule number five is about smoking and drinking. If you want to arrive at your destination in good condition then you should swear off tobacco (which is not allowed on any flights

are suspicious of foreigners who want to trample around outside

these days) and alcohol for the duration. Physiologically, alcohol

the capital. The result of this suspicion is that more and more

has a dehydrating effect on the system (which is what causes

countries now require that special permits be issued for internal

hangovers). When account is taken of the added dehydration

travel (this particularly applies to journalists but also to tourists

that results from the pressurised atmosphere inside airline

or business visitors whose interests take them off the beaten

cabins, you can see why it is that in-flight drinking sprees so

track).

often result in really bad headaches.

While I’m afraid I can’t offer any magic bullet for dealing with

Cigarettes make things worse by reducing the amount of

the bureaucracies that administer internal travel permits (just

oxygen in your bloodstream and, if you’re the masochistic type,

be polite and patient), rule number three will help to iron out

you can go on to deliver the coup de grace to your system by

one of the problems – namely that the forms you have to fill

drinking lots and lots of airline coffee (which will further

in invariably require that you also affix a small photograph of

dehydrate you and virtually guarantee you a mega-hangover

yourself.

on arrival). Almost all cities in Africa are now equipped with those automatic

The only answer, I’m afraid, is to sit and quaff lots of fruit juice or water (both of which will help to rehydrate you). Carbonated

booths that will take your

soft drinks, however, should be avoided. This is because

photograph for a few cents

pressurised atmospheres not only dehydrate you but also have

but it still makes sense to

the effect of expanding the natural gasses in your stomach – an

carry some photos with you.

effect that is worsened by the fizz in fizzy drinks.

While I’m on the subject, I would also advise the well prepared traveller to take some carbon paper along. It really does make life easier when you have to fill out forms in triplicate.

Rule number six is very much a personal preference: if I have a choice I always opt for an aisle rather than a window seat. When I first started travelling I wanted to sit by the window in the belief that I would see picturesque views out of it. I quickly found, however, that I was mistaken in this belief. The fact is that for the bulk of the journey in any modern

Rule number four concerns the

aircraft you’re just too high to make out anything of interest on

care and maintenance of your stomach.

the ground. The few minutes of sightseeing that you may get on

I don’t know about you, but I find it is better

take-off and landing are, in my opinion, not worth the discomfort

to request a vegetarian meal when you fly. Most airlines will willingly oblige as long as you notify them a day or so before departure and, in my experience, the results they come up with are generally very pleasing. Quite a lot of imagination goes into catering these ‘special meals’ and, precisely because they are special, they don’t have that production-line feel about them.

and claustrophobia of being hemmed in beside the window for eight or nine hours. In the aisle seat, on the other hand, you can stretch out your legs that bit further and get up and walk around the cabin without having to worry about disturbing the people next to you. On a long flight, the little bit of extra freedom this affords can make a big difference to your general comfort and state of mind.

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 39

food

along the main roads. While travelling from Kampala to Jinja, you can make a stop-over at Nabiwojjojo – almost at the halfway point of the journey – and enjoy roast chicken meat, gizzards, cow liver, beef, or pork. This can be accompanied by grilled bananas – the sweet speciality locally called gonja – or fresh banana wine. The colourful roadside markets are also the place to buy the incredible

Tastes of Uganda

variety of fresh tropical fruits and vegetables grown in the country, such as several types of banana, passion fruit, oranges, mangoes, onions, tomatoes, juicy pawpaw (papaya), avocados, potatoes, and many more.

isitors wanting to discover the traditional dishes of

Uganda’s traditional ethnic dishes are basic and simple. Beef

Uganda will not be disappointed. Uganda’s fertile soils

stew is the staple diet for the more well-to-do, while ground

and abundant freshwater lakes provide a true cornucopia

peanuts (groundnuts) and beans, boiled and seasoned with ginger

of good things to eat, and visitors are sure to be delighted with what they sample – whether it be the country’s unique traditional

and cooking oil, is the most popular vegetarian dish. But what has become the ‘national dish’ is matoke – peeled

dishes or even the more familiar Western-style dishes, made

bananas boiled in water while wrapped in banana leaves. Every

special by local ingredients.

visitor should try it at least once, preferably as a guest in a rural

From Africa’s largest freshwater lake, Victoria, come two

home, eating with the fingers. When eaten in a private residence,

mainstays of many a Ugandan’s diet: Nile perch and tilapia.

matoke is often accompanied with a variety of tasty relishes

Fishermen can often be seen near the lake in the late afternoon,

and vegetables not often found in more conventional tourist

carrying their day’s catch of Nile perch – a single specimen of

surroundings. Matoke is eaten in most parts of the country,

which may weigh more than 80 kilogrammes (176 pounds) – to

but particularly in the Buganda, western, and eastern regions.

the market. It is usually served fresh, but a small-sized perch

The special matoke bananas are grown mostly in Buganda

may be smoked. The much smaller – but equally tasty – tilapia,

and western Uganda on well-watered land: the banana plant

known locally as ngege, is normally consumed fresh and rarely

requires much rain to yield a good crop. In the drier, northern

dried.

parts of the country, millet, sorghum, and cassava are grown

Uganda’s waters are also home to another – perhaps not

as food crops. They are cooked and eaten with a sauce made

so conventional foodstuff: the Nile crocodile. Ugandans are

out of groundnuts, simsim (sesame), different meats and fish,

beginning to discover the versatility of crocodile meat, which

as well as leafy greens.

is much nicer than it would seem, with a flavour variously

If you really want to throw all caution to the wind, make sure

described as resembling chicken, veal, or fish. As the number of

you try such local delicacies as green grasshoppers, locally called

commercially raised crocodiles increases, in a few years time its

nsenene (particularly abundant during the rainy seasons), and

meat will undoubtedly be appearing in some supermarkets.

white ants (actually, termites). The Bagisu tribe also relish young

For snacks, local people are somewhat addicted to

bamboo shoots, which they call amaleewa. If any of these are

muchomo, charcoal-roasted beef, pork or chicken. Young

offered to you, don’t let the opportunity pass you by; they are

men in the urban areas can often be seen selling skewered

nicer than you might expect.

pieces of meat, which they grill on portable charcoal stoves. Roasted meat can be found at a number of roadside markets

Cultivation of maize has become popular in all regions of the country. Maize is served in local restaurants and if cooked well

So if you’re visiting Uganda, don’t just stick to ‘safe’ western food – if you do you’ll be missing out on something special 40 | air uganda | february – april 2010

food

can be tastier than the more expensive matoke. In most boarding

seven days it is ready to drink and is filtered into gourds or

and day schools in Uganda, maize porridge is served at breakfast,

jerrycans and taken to the market.

with maize meal a regular feature at lunch and dinner. It is often

Making the most of what they grow, the rural people in the

accompanied by a sauce made from groundnuts, simsim, meat,

north and north-east parts make a similar alcoholic drink out

and leafy green vegetables.

of millet. When it is ready, the drink is put in pots and sucked

To wash everything down, try the locally brewed beers, which

out through locally made straws or tubes. Hot water is added

are first class if you like light, lager-type beers. Two large

periodically while three to six people sit around the pot, sucking

breweries produce a variety of beers, with ‘Nile’ and ‘Bell’ being

in the drink, locally called malwa.

the most popular brands. The well-known ‘national drink’ is called Uganda waragi, a

So if you’re visiting Uganda, don’t just stick to ‘safe’ western food – if you do you’ll be missing out on something special.

distillate or gin made out of cassava, banana beer, and brown

Be adventurous, and try the local cuisine. Uganda really does

sugar. The raw material out of which Uganda waragi is made

have some unique specialities that you cannot find elsewhere,

is locally called enguli – a potent white stuff that is almost 100

and if you cannot bring yourself to try green grasshoppers and

per cent pure alcohol. Some people say enguli can be used to

millet beer, at least try the matoke and the excellent locally

generate electricity or power your car! When the enguli is taken

brewed lager.

to the commercial distillery, it is purified, its alcoholic potency is drastically reduced (to less than 40 per cent), and it is given different flavours. Waragi is either bottled or packed in small plastic bags and is sold in almost every supermarket, bar, or

Matoke Recipe

restaurant. Rather than drinking it neat (which could be eye-watering!), mix it with soda, tonic or even Coca-Cola. Another local brew is banana wine, made in the bananagrowing rural areas in a wooden container. It is essentially juice from bananas which is fermented with sorghum flour. After

Ingrediants 8 green or unique bananas 50 grammes butter or margarine 300 grammes groundnuts 2 onions, chopped 1 cup milk or cream salt and pepper Aromat

Right:

Direction

A woman

1. Boil the bananas until they become soft. Drain water and

carrying a

add margarine and salt. Mash until smooth.

massive stem of

2. For the groundnut sauce, fry onions with margarine until

a great, green,

brown, add groundnuts and stir for about 10 minutes. Add

cooking plantain

the milk cream until the paste is smooth. Add salt, pepper

on her head.

and Aromat to taste.

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 41

arts & crafts

Arts & Crafts of Uganda Apart from depicting beauty, the arts and crafts of Uganda have religious, cultural, and psychological significance – as well as a practical use Asante reports.

Left: Uganda’s rich culture features a variety of traditional arts and crafts.

Barkcloth A unique Ugandan craft is the making of barkcloth. According to

Gourds One of the most useful natural objects in Uganda is the

Buganda folklore a hunter in the region invented the art after

calabash or gourd. It grows well in most parts of Africa and,

coming across a species of fig tree in the forest. He noticed its

owing to its diversity of shape, can be put to a large number of

bark had criss-crossing fibres, similar to the warp and weft of

uses. The beauty and utility of a well-shaped gourd has been so

manufactured cloth.

appreciated by many tribes that artisans have copied it in

Barkcloth is made by stripping long lengths of bark from the tree, now known as the ‘barkcloth tree’. The strips are first soaked in water and then beaten on a smooth log with a corrugated

earthenware. Large gourds are also used as musical instruments in several parts of northern Uganda.

wooden mallet called a nsaamo. Beating thins out the bark and makes it firmer. The resulting soft material is often painted or decorated. The strips are then sown together to make larger pieces. Barkcloth, decorated with bold patterns in black dye, was once

Basketry Basketry is possibly the oldest and most highly developed craft in Uganda. This type of weaving is a foundation of homemaking, building and defence. Stockades, enclosure fences, and houses

reserved for the royal family, but it is still in use to this day.

are often woven, as are portable shields. Fences, granaries,

Peasants in rural areas who cannot afford to buy a wooden coffin

reed-work, thatching, traps, and heavy field baskets are made

wrap their dead in barkcloth before they are buried. Barkcloth is

by men. Smaller baskets for storing food in the house are made

also still worn on important cultural events and is used for making

by women. The delicate fancy baskets, pot lids, and pot stands –

beautifully decorated tablecloths, curtains, handbags and floor

whose use is almost more ornamental than functional – are the

mats

product of endless hours of concentrated effort.

42 | air uganda | february – april 2010

Pottery Among Ugandans, potters were a distinct class of workmen. The king had his own potters; many chiefs also had their own earthenware workers. The land provides potters with many different kinds of clay: red soils for large red earthenware, kaolin for white clay, and black soils for dark bluish clay, a substance much favoured for making certain articles. An earthenware article is made by rolling clay into long strips and coiling them into the desired shape. The surfaces are smoothed, and the product is then dried and fired. Earthenware pots are used for carrying and storing water, making and storing beer, and storing grain and other foods. Small pots, called kibya in Ganda, are used as drinking vessels or as receptacles for food, vegetables, or gravy. Several tribes in Uganda use clay to manufacture tobacco pipes and pipes for use in temples and shrines.

Musical Instruments There are as many types, shapes, and varieties of traditional musical instruments in Uganda as there are tribal groups. The most common musical instrument is the drum, which is made out of wood, with its two hollow ends covered by hides or skins. Drums

Wood

are not only used to produce music for entertainment or dancing,

From the many types of wood found in the country, Ugandans

but they are also used for communicating different messages.

make a wide variety of utensils, including spoons, ladles, beer

Ggwanga mujje, for example, is beaten to summon all the people

tubes or straws, mallets used in the making of barkcloth, and

residing in an area in case of trouble or the need for communal

long boxes used for jewellery and similar items.

work.

Wooden stools are also popular items. There are two types of stools in the Buganda kingdom: the leg and base stool and the ‘cotton-reel’ stool (so named because of its shape, and carved

Fine Art Early Ugandan artists, influenced by the foreigners around them during colonial times, often imitated European statuary and

out of logs). Namulondo, the sacred stool used in Ganda coronation rites, is of the cotton-reel variety.

paintings. A good example of this type of art is that of Joachim Basasa Kalange, whose work adorns many churches in the diocese of Masaba. Others of note include Charles Ssekintu,

Weapons

Ignatius Sserulyo, F Musango, and Kivubiro.

Before the arrival of Arab traders and European colonisers

An interesting style of representational art evolved from the

and missionaries, the weapons found in a typical armoury were

need the Baganda felt to illustrate their numerous pithy

shields, sticks, spears, bows and arrows, and simple guns.

aphorisms. In the mid-1920s, people started writing these short

Miniature shields were sometimes kept near their beds by

wise sayings in form of riddles, known as bikokyo, many of which

women as charms.

were printed in the local Gambuze newspaper. Later these

Wooden clubs shaped like a knobkerry were formerly used in

sayings were copied on paper, mounted, and hung on many a

warfare and as a weapon of execution. On their ‘walkabouts’,

living room wall as both maxims and decorations. Between 1936

men from several tribes carried walking sticks, one ends of

and 1940 artists began adding pictures to illustrate the sayings.

which was either club-shaped or pointed. Spears were common among the tribes of ancient Uganda. Even today spears are used in traditional hunting and in

The desire to have clan totems illustrated in pictures was also a big factor in this development. With their roots at Mukono in the Bishop Tucker College, these pictures were later brought to Kampala and finally spread throughout the country.

poaching wild game. The spear has a narrow and tapering blade; the widest portion is not at the extreme base, so that the shoulders slope upwards. It usually has burnished edges and

Gradually the occupation of making ‘mottos’ became popular and commercially practicable; even today you meet people selling these articles anywhere in the country.

often gives the appearance of having two wide, shallow blood courses. The sockets are heavy, with an open split and one nail at the back. Bows and arrows are still commonly used in defence and hunting wild animals.

Where to Find Ugandan Arts and Crafts Arts and crafts in Uganda are found everywhere – in everyday use, displayed and being exchanged for money in marketplaces, people’s homes, public and private galleries, and museums.

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 43

arts & crafts

Ballroom. Some of the best paintings, batiks, and sculptures produced by local artists can be seen here, and the exhibitors or their representatives are often at hand to negotiate prices with serious and potential customers.

National Theatre/Arts and Crafts Village In addition to hosting performing artists, the lobbies of the Uganda National Theatre are often adorned with the works of the country’s finest artists. In the grounds behind the theatre is the permanent Arts and Crafts Village where a great variety of crafts and artwork are for sale in kiosks. It is a fascinating experience to stroll around and talk to the artisans or members of the many self-help groups that run the small shops. They are more than happy to answer your questions and show you their work.

Nnyanzi Art Studio This outstanding private gallery is located in the heart of Kampala. The gallery/studio was established by a self-made artist, Nuwa Wamala Nnyanzi, who is president of the Uganda Artists Association and also the minister for local government in the Buganda kingdom government. His original batik paintings, which have become world famous, often depict family life themes and the scourges of modern city life.

Uganda National Museum The Uganda National Museum, in the north-east section

>> School of Fine Art at Makerere The School of Fine Art at Makerere University is one of the oldest schools at Uganda’s highest institution of learning. It has played a leading role not only in producing some of the country’s greatest artists but also in Uganda’s varied cultural and social transformation. A five-minute walk from the centre of Kampala, the Margaret Trowell School of Fine Art houses a permanent gallery of some of the best works of art left behind by the former students of the school. Outside the gallery are numerous sculptures and statues made out of clay, wood, and metal in all shapes and sizes.

of Kampala on Kitante Hill, is home to many of the country’s treasured historical arts and crafts, including fossils and cultural artefacts.

Roadside Markets Many artisans making items such as baskets, drums, or pottery can be found on the roadside markets along the country’s main roads. Straw furniture makers, for example, are flourishing on the Nsambya-Kabalagala-Kansanga road. Craftspeople specialising in mats and baskets can be found at Mukono shopping centre along the Kampala-Jinja main road.

Collectors can easily be put in touch with the artists so that they can see more of their work.

Nommo Gallery For a long time, Nommo Gallery at Nakasero Hill, near State

Top left:

House in Kampala, has been a regular meeting place for artists,

A drum is made

buyers, and admirers of art. Almost every week this public gallery

out of wood

exhibits the work of one or several well-known and up-and-coming

with its hollow

artists, and it is the perfect place to get an introduction to

ends covered by

Ugandan art.

hides and skins.

Sheraton Hotel

Left:

The Kampala Sheraton allows artists to exhibit their works in its spacious public areas – particularly the foyer of the Ruwenzori

44 | air uganda | february – april 2010

A wood carver at work.

AIR UGANDA FLIGHT SCHEDULE

ENTEBBE – NAIROBI FLIGHT NUMBER U7 U7 U7 U7

202 202 204 204

DEPARTURE TIME 06:45 08:45 18:30 18:45

Hrs Hrs Hrs Hrs

ARRIVAL TIME 07:50 Hrs 09:50 Hrs 19:35 Hrs 19:45 Hrs

FREQUENCY Monday – Friday Saturday Monday – Thursday & Sunday Saturday & Sunday

NAIROBI – ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER U7 U7 U7 U7

203 203 205 205

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 120 U7 120 U7 120

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 119 U7 119 U7 119

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 322

DEPARTURE TIME 08:25 Hrs 10:25 Hrs 20:15 Hrs 20:30 Hrs

ARRIVAL TIME 09:35 Hrs 11:35 Hrs 21:25 Hrs 21:30 Hrs

DEPARTURE TIME 10:25 Hrs 15:00 Hrs 12:15 Hrs

ENTEBBE – JUBA

ARRIVAL TIME 11:25 Hrs 16:00 Hrs 13:15 Hrs

DEPARTURE TIME 12:05 Hrs 17:00 Hrs 13:55 Hrs

JUBA – ENTEBBE

ARRIVAL TIME 13:05 Hrs 18:00 Hrs 14:55 Hrs

ENTEBBE – ZANZIBAR

DEPARTURE TIME 10:30 Hrs

ARRIVAL TIME 12:15 Hrs

FREQUENCY Monday – Friday Saturday Monday – Thursday & Sunday Saturday & Sunday

FREQUENCY Monday – Thursday Friday & Sunday Saturday

FREQUENCY Monday & Friday

ZANZIBAR – ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 323

12:45 Hrs

15:30 Hrs

Monday & Friday

FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

U7 322 U7 320 U7 320

10:30 Hrs 10:30 Hrs 15:30 Hrs

FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ENTEBBE – DAR ES SALAAM ARRIVAL TIME 13:15 Hrs 12:15 Hrs 17:15 Hrs

FREQUENCY Monday & Friday Tuesday – Thursday Sunday

DAR ES SALAAM – ENTEBBE U7 323 U7 321 U7 321

13:45 Hrs 12:50 Hrs 17:50 Hrs

ARRIVAL TIME 15:30 Hrs 14:35 Hrs 19:35 Hrs

FREQUENCY Monday & Friday Tuesday – Thursday Sunday

ENTEBBE – MOMBASA FLIGHT NUMBER U7 340 U7 340

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 341 U7 341

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 350 U7 352

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 351 U7 353

DEPARTURE TIME 14:00 Hrs 11:00 Hrs

ARRIVAL TIME 15:30 Hrs 12:30 Hrs

MOMBASA – ENTEBBE

DEPARTURE TIME 16:10 Hrs 13:15 Hrs

ARRIVAL TIME 17:40 Hrs 14:45 Hrs

ENTEBBE – KIGALI

DEPARTURE TIME 08:00 Hrs 16:15 Hrs

ARRIVAL TIME 07:45Hrs 16:00 Hrs

KIGALI – ENTEBBE

DEPARTURE TIME 08:15 Hrs 16:30 Hrs

ARRIVAL TIME 10:00Hrs 18:15 Hrs

FREQUENCY Tuesday & Thursday Sunday

FREQUENCY Monday – Friday Friday – Sunday

For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on +256 (0) 412 165 555 in KAMPALA

february – april 2010 | air uganda | 45

HEALTHY TRAVELLING

These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise. Foot pumps: Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upward as high as you can. Then put both feet flat on the floor. Then lift heels high, keeping the balls of your feet

Lift leg with knees bent while contracting your thigh muscles. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30

in 30-second intervals.

Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals. 46 | air uganda | february – april 2010

•

For your own comfort try and travel light.

•

Wear loose clothing and elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.

•

Increase your normal intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.

•

Use moisturising cream to keep your skin from drying out.

•

Take off shoes in the plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.

•

Avoid heavy meals during the flight.

•

Short walks once every two hours are excellent for circulation.

•

Try to touch your toes when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.

•

On arrival at your destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.

•

On arrival a quick jog, brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.

times for each leg.

on the floor. Continue cycle

Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

Other Tips for a Comfortable Flight

Knee lifts:

Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.

Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.

ROUTE MAP

february â&#x20AC;&#x201C; april 2010 | air uganda | 47

AIR UGANDA NEWS

Air Uganda is Proud to Announce the Launch of Our Brand New Website http://www.air-uganda.com

Several exciting features will be unveiled over the coming weeks, in particular a new-look, streamlined booking engine offering easy access to book U7 flights on-line as well as an informative, integrated HTML e-Newsletter service for our valued customers. The new home page http://www.air-uganda.com features inviting images from our popular destinations as well as static promotional messages and animated image sequences depicting the welcoming, friendly look and feel of Air Uganda. You will also find a comprehensive snapshot of our ever-popular Smart Buys.The site contains several new pages with lots of interesting and useful information, including: U7 Flights and Fares Schedule http://www.air-uganda.com/content/flights-fares Current Promotions http://www.air-uganda.com/content/promotions Zanzibar Holiday Packages http://www.air-uganda.com/content/holidays

Latest News http://www.air-uganda.com/news Celestars Frequent Flyer Page Where customers can register and manage their account on-line http://www.air-uganda.com/contentcelestars-frequent-flyer-program

About Us page You can read about our growing fleet on the http://www.air-uganda.com/content/about-us To complement our new-look website we have incorporated links to our New Facebook Social Media Page http://www.facebook.com/search/?q=air+uganda&init=quick#/ pages/Air-Uganda/193472814930? ref=search&sid=1198403546.2259493304..1 Also you can check out our new Twitter Page with custom theme https://twitter.com/AirUganda If you have recently flown on an Air Uganda flight, take part in our On-Line Survey http://www.air-uganda.com/content/survey We welcome you to navigate our site http://www.air-uganda.com/ and provide any feedback via our Contact Us Page http://www.air-uganda.com/cotent/contact-us

Fan page is here: http://www.facebook.com/pagesTravelCare/ 170378613429?ref=ts To become a friend - main page is here: http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/profilephp? ref=name&id=100000523273802 The most important aspect is to build up a fan base that we can interact with via Fan Page which is also automatically linked to our Twitter page. Twitter Page Is Here: https://twitter.com/AirUganda

48 | air uganda | february - april 2010

AIR UGANDA NEWS

* Above: Water spray celebrates Air Ugandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arrival at Moi International Airport, Mombasa.

Air Uganda opens new direct flights between Entebbe and Mombasa In a bid to serve our Ugandan and Kenyan customers better, Air Uganda has unveiled another new route within East Africa, flying between Entebbe and Mombasa. This route brings to five the number of routes operated from Entebbe, along with Juba, Nairobi, Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam. Air Uganda as usual is committed to offering excellent value-for-money fares on the route, of $ 299 return and $ 199 one-way, targeting leisure travellers, traders, shipping and forwarding companies. The airline operates direct flights from Mombasa to Entebbe three times a week, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. The launch of the Mombasa-Entebbe route shows that we are growing stronger. We are grateful to all our customers for their support and look forward to serving them even better in the years ahead. The airline recently unveiled a new Bombardier CRJ jet aircraft with a seat capacity of 50 passengers, to support its commitment to expanding its route network serving Uganda and East Africa. The new modern jet will strengthen the airlineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current fleet and provide fast convenient flights to more destinations such as Mombasa.

Enjoy this great companion offer on our direct flights between Mombasa and Entebbe. This offer is valid until 31st March 2010. Contact us for further information. Kampala: +256 (0) 41 216 5555, IPS Building, Plot 14, Parliament Avenue, Kampala. Nairobi: +254 (0) 20 313 933, 5th Floor, Jubilee Insurance Building, Wabera Street, Nairobi.

Above: A workshop and dinner was hosted on 28 November 2009 by Air Uganda for Travel Agents from Mombasa. From left: Cyprian Kabeera, Sales Executive Air Uganda; Harshit Kanabi, Sales Executive Mantra Travel; Meera Nathwani of Mantra Travel; Jenifer Musiime, Head of Sales & Marketing Air Uganda; Goolzaar Rattanashi from Express Travel; Pervis Vatchha of Bunson Travel with Mr. Hugh Fraser, Chief Executive Officer Air Uganda.

february - april 2010 | air uganda | 49

AIR UGANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES

Uganda

Kenya

Kampala

Nairobi

Head Office

Sales Office

Plot 11/13, Lower Kololo Terrace

5th Floor,

Tel: + 256 (0)414 258 262

Jubilee Insurance House,

Fax: +256 414 500 932

Wabera Street

Email: info@air-uganda.com

Tel: +254 (0)20 313 933

Sales Office

Ticketing Office

1st Floor Plot 14,

Jomo Kenyatta International

Jubilee Insurance Centre,

Airport c/o Swissport

Parliament Avenue.

Kenya Unit One

Tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555,

Tel: +254 (0) 735289125

+256 (0) 312 222666

+254 (0) 735289130

Ticketing Office

Mombasa

Entebbe International Airport

Sales Office

2nd Floor,

c/o Jetlink

Passenger Terminal Building

2nd Floor, TSS Towers

Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485

Nkurumah Road

Email: reservations@air-uganda.com

Tel: +254 (0) 714 111 555

Tanzania

Rwanda

Dar es Salaam

Sales Office

c/o Satguru Travel and Tours Services

c/o Holiday Africa Tours & Safaris

Opposite Bank de Kigali

Indiragandhi Street,

Tel: +250 577 497, 511 002,

Tel: +255 (0)22 213 331/5/6

+250 572 643

Southern Sudan

Zanzibar

Juba

Sales Office

Cine Afrique Cinema Malindi

Hai Suk Street (opp. The Mosque)

Tel: +255 (0) 24 22 33506/7

Tel: +256 (0)47 712 0036

50 | air uganda | february â&#x20AC;&#x201C; april 2010

TIPS FOR THE TRAVELLER IN UGANDA

Land Uganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain. Climate Although situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year. Topography It is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux. Economy Uganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers. Language English is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo. Electric supply All installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment. Time Uganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Time remains constant throughout the year. People The people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English. Excursions Uganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-theroad driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya. Hotels There are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels. Banking hours There is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities. Communications Telephone, Telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes. Medical services Uganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.

Currency Uganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates. Credit cards International credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops. Working hours Shops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400. Some businesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items. Public Holidays 2010 1 January 26 January 8 March 2 April 5 April 1 May 3 June 9 June 11 September 9 October 17 November 25 December 26 December

New Year’s Day Liberation Day International Women’s Day Good Friday Easter Monday Labour Day Martyrs’ Day National Heroes’ Day Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan) Independence Day Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice) Christmas Day Boxing Day

Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate. Customs Besides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale. Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies. Health requirements Visitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking. Visa and immigration requirements Visa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted. Taxi services Taxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance. Car rental Several firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a drivertranslator is recommended). Entebbe International Airport The main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar. Security The same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Be careful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe. february – april 2010 | air uganda | 51

CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU

Crossword Clues Across

1. Drat! A mist stirred for playwright (9) 9. Gloomy medical officer with flower (6) 10. Not a quick month for funereal pace (4, 5)

10 11 12

13. Shun wellies – they make you ill inside! (6) 17. A little common painkiller for venomous snake (3) 19, Keep possession of everything, just in case (7) 20. 1 writes words for her! (7)

13 14

29. Does this paint make animals ill? (9)

21 23

22 24

27 28 29

30. Broken slates for upholstery decoration (6) 31. Altered at mix-up some time afterwards (5, 4)

18 20

27. Illumination with which to check one’s pimples? (9) 28. Nothing back to the listener is one-dimensional (6)

21. Prayer aer gone to snoop (3) 23. Drink this country dry? (6)

11. Flag for the commissioned officer? (6) 12. Followed winding course ere demand broken (9)

30 31

Clues Down Answers down 2. Roller; 3. Mewing; 4. Thames; 5. Secrets; 6. Pound note; 7. Policemen; 8. Penniless; 14. Chocolate; 15. Blindness; 16. Sandpaper; 17. Alp; 18. Pay; 22. Replica; 24. Statue; 25. Firmed; 26. Threat

2. Rolls-Royce (slang) and a wave (6) 3. New Mig makes a high-pitched cry (6) 4. A part of London that is always wet (6)

Answers across 1. Dramatist; 9. Morose; 10. Slow march; 11. Ensign; 12. Meandered; 13. Unwell; 17. Asp; 19. Holdall; 20. Actress; 21. Pry; 23. Canada; 27. Spotlight; 28. Linear; 29. Distemper; 30. Tassel; 31. Later date

5. 20 minus A plus E, stirred for hidden things (7) 6. Weighty paper currency? (5, 4)

Sudoku

7. They may clock you if you speed! (9) 8. Not quite enough money? You’re broke! (9) 14. Cool cheat for a sweet tooth (9) 15. Window covering and Scottish loch produce this affliction (9) 16. Do you read this in the desert? It’s rough (9) 17. Mountain in an external place (3)

Place a number from 1 to 9 in every empty cell so that each row, each column and each 3x3 box contains all the numbers from 1 to 9. No number can appear twice in a row, column or 3x3 box.

18. Bark back to get what you have earned (3)

Do not guess – you can work

22. Confused Alec RIP at the double (7)

it out by a process of

24. First at UEFA provides sculpture (6) 25. Conifer by the sea is made stronger (6) 26. Hydrogen in the special celebration becomes hostile (6)

52 | air uganda | february – april 2010

elimination.

8 4 2 9 4 8 3 8 3 7 4 1 6 2 6 4 8 9 1 4 7 7 5 3 8

1 5 2 5 3 8 6

9 7 4 1

issue

number

001

february–april

2010

the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the

The central lounge and reception

The rooms and suites

Maisha Mind Body and Spirit Spa

The pool and garden view

asante issue number 001 february–april 2010

A WORLD AWAY FROM THE CITY

LAKE VICTORIA SERENA RE SO RT

PO Box 37761, Kampala, Uganda, Lweza-Kigo road, Off Entebbe road or Call +256 41 7121000, Fax +256 41 7121550 e-mail: lakevictoria@serena.co.ug your complimentary copy