issue
number
005
february–april
2011
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ǩȝȠȡǂȟȜǪ ȟȞȣȢțțț
ǩȝȠȟǂȝțǪ ȝȣȟȤțțț
ǩȝȠȠǂȝȝǪ ȝȜȜȟȣȣȣǠȤț
ǩȝȠȢǂȝȝǪ ȝȠ ȤȤ ȣȣ ǀ ǀ
the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the asante issue number 005 february–april 2011
your complimentary copy
EDITORIAL
Welcome Aboard!
O
n behalf of all my colleagues at Air Uganda, I welcome you aboard this U7 flight and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. Please relax and our crew will get you to your destination safely,
comfortably and on time. Air Uganda is a member of the Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development (AKFED) and a member of Group Celestair, with partner airlines Air Burkina and Air Mali. We aim to align Air Uganda with the Celestair Group Human Resources Strategy by providing a structure that identifies with the organisation’s values, promotes the growth of people and talent, encourages teamwork, and values training, while embracing change. As the Human Resources Manager, I am tasked with ensuring that the company has employees with the knowledge, skills and attitude to exceed your expectations in our service delivery. With this in mind, I am to set up and create a business partnership with all stakeholders through attracting, developing, and retaining a highly qualified and diverse workforce, creating a culture that promotes quality service and excellence throughout the company. The aviation industry is highly regulated and therefore, to meet the standards of the Civil Aviation Authority, training is a core and valued aspect in our company. We carry out routine proficiency checks for the cockpit crew, refresher training for the cabin crew, maintenance engineers and airport supervisors. To keep abreast with the competition in the industry, all employees in the company undergo customer care training and team building sessions which equip them with skills to serve you better. At Air Uganda, we value performance management to help us identify talent for the future and develop our people for growth and implementation of Air Uganda’s Vision. Air Uganda is a growing company that is constantly expanding its network across East Africa and therefore job opportunities are often available. Potential candidates for advertised positions can send their resumÊs to hrdept@air-uganda.com or visit our website on www.air-uganda.com for more details. Finally, I would like to extend my warm gratitude for the continued support, encouragement, and ideas for improvement that our customers have suggested and we look forward to seeing you on this U7 flight again. Thank you for flying with us and we look forward to serving you in 2011. John Kasangaki Human Resources Manager
CONTENTS
6
JINJA
If you’re seeking an adrenaline rush amidst some of the most spectacular scenery in Uganda, you’ll be well rewarded for charting a course to Jinja.
12
KENYA’S CAPITAL CITY, NAIROBI
18
TWO TANZANIAN SAFARIS WITH A TWIST
22
SOUTHERN SUDAN BEYOND JUBA
26
OUT OF AFRICA
30
CAT CALLS
34
SEEING RED
38
EXQUISITENESS OF THE BLUE GEMS
40
WORK-LIFE BALANCE
42
EXERCISE COULD HELP WOMEN ON BED REST
44
WHAT PROBIOTICS CAN DO FOR YOU
Photo © Peter Holthusen
Explore Nairobi -- now regarded as the economic capital of much of east and central Africa and an excellent centre to visit for business or leisure.
There is nothing quite like being on an African safari.
Cover picture: Exhilarating white-water rafting on the White Nile near Jinja.
A journey into Southern Sudan offers a unique insight into the life of the Dinka people.
Visit Kenya and recapture a little of its magic by exploring some of the places associated with the renowned author, Karen Blixen.
Here is a brief guide to enhance your encounters with Africa’s majestic felines.
REGULARS 1
Editorial by Human Resources Manager, Air Uganda
25
Book World
46
News Page
47
Air Uganda Flight Schedule
48
Healthy Travelling
49
Route Map
50
Offices
51
Tips for the Traveller
52
Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku
Just about every culture celebrates New Year, but none more heartily than the Chinese.
Insight into the new blue gemstones that are making headlines …
In this world of a seemingly increasing pressure, is it really feasible to seek this balance?
Here is a message for women and their doctors.
Discover why life on earth would be impossible without these tiny chemical wizards.
WELCOME ABOARD
Publishers:
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Editorial Director:
Rukhsana Haq
Editor:
Roger Barnard
Editorial Assistant: Senior Designer: Design Assistant:
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26
Camerapix Magazines Ltd
Cecilia W. Gaitho Sam Kimani Fatima Janmohamed
Production Manager:
Azra Chaudhry, U.K
Production Assistant:
Rose Judha
Editorial Board:
Rukhsana Haq Jenifer B. Musiime Regina Busingye
ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili is published quarterly for Air Uganda by Camerapix Magazines Limited P.O.Box 45048,00100 GPO Nairobi, Kenya Telephone: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5
34
Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021 E-mail: creative@camerapix.co.ke Editorial and Advertising Office: Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited 32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP
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Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942 Mobile: +44 79411 21458 E-mail: camerapixuk@btinternet.com Correspondance on editorial and advertising matters may be sent to either of the above addresses.
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©2011 CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTD All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced by any means without permission in writing from the publisher. All photographs by Camerapix unless otherwise indicated.
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Choosing the right school in East Africa is a complicated matter for all parents; setting the standard internationally is one leading school in Nairobi...
R
In Nairobi Brookhouse School is leading the way in international education for children from forty nations
ound Square is an odd phrase to the uninitiated, but is is the name given to a group of 80 like-minded schools worldwide that share a common educational philosophy based on developing leadership skills in young people through service to others. In the leafy suburb of Langata, Nairobi’s Brookhouse School is one such Round Square member school, devoted to the development of each child as a responsible contributor to society. With outstanding academic results each year and a vast range of extra-curricular activities, Brookhouse prides itself on nurturing the unique talents and aspirations of each pupil, sending graduates every year to the finest universities around the globe, including the UK and Canada’s leading institutions of higher learning, Ivy League colleges in the USA and the Group of 8 foremost universities in Australia. The Brookhouse Boarding House is home to children from across Africa and beyond, with forty different nationalities represented amongst the student body. This focus on internationalism is a key element of the Round Square philosophy and part of what makes the school a very special place. The boarding facilities at Brookhouse are extensive, leading many parents to choose this option for their children. Brookhouse standards are maintained through full accreditation with the Council of International Schools and IAPS, organisations that provide the most stringent benchmarks against which the school is judged in terms of academic delivery and good governance. Indeed, Brookhouse has the distinction of being the only international school in East Africa to hold both CIS and IAPS accreditations, providing parents with the security of knowing they are investing in
quality education provided by a secure and stable institution. At Brookhouse one can see the signs of constant reinvestment to meet the academic and extra-curricular demands of a 21 st Century education: flat screen Mac computers, all fully networked with e-mail and internet access in several computer laboratories; a gymnasium and indoor sports centre that would not be out of place in a 5 star hotel; well equipped specialist science laboratories; Art & Design and Music studios; and a theatre that can lay claim to being the finest performance venue in the region. Of course, the most well known facility at Brookhouse would have to be the “castle style” primary school, already a landmark along Langata Road, which has set new standards in innovative school design for East Africa. A strict code of conduct to ensure high standards of manners, behaviour and respect, plus an ongoing focus on serious academic achievement are key features of a Brookhouse education, and the students also seem to always be busy extending themselves: whether it is in the choir or orchestra, Model United Nations or the President’s Award Scheme, sporting teams or school plays, as all such activities are an integral part of what makes for a full and rounded education at the school. So then, for parents choosing the international school environment for the education of their children there is much to consider in the standards set by Brookhouse, and although there is no denying that it is a signficant financial undertaking for any parent, it is also true that a first-class education is the greatest investment a parent can make in the future for their children. A visit to Brookhouse only reaffirms this.
For further information please contact: www.brookhouse.ac.ke
february – april 2011 | asante | 5
Photo © Peter Holthusen
destination: uganda
JINJA
Attractively Lush, Adrenaline Rush By Peter Holthusen.
Above:
T
he White Nile near Jinja, Uganda’s second largest town
wandering north for 6,437 kilometres (4,000 miles) until it
has become known as the adventure sports capital of East
reaches the Mediterranean Sea.
Africa, for the river here has several grade five rapids
In the middle of the 19th century, the river Nile, one of the
which offer exhilarating white-water rafting on a par with the
greatest remaining challenges for explorers, still had its origins
world-renowned Zambezi Gorge below Victoria Falls.
behind a barrier of fetid swamps, fatal diseases and seemingly
Less than 17 years ago, tourism activity on the Nile north of Jinja was limited to a peaceful picnic site at the Bujagali Falls – a series of impressive rapids about 10 kilometres (6 miles)
ferocious tribesmen. Its mystery was compounded by reports of fabulous lakes and mountains. This challenge fired the imagination of the British Royal
downriver of the source of the Nile – visited by a handful of
Geographical Society (RGS), who had a particular interest
travellers annually. Today, the eastern bank of the Nile between
in determining the source of the Nile. Thus, in a series of
Jinja and Bujagali has developed into a world-class
expeditions between 1856 and 1877, several British explorers
adventure-tourism centre, serviced by four bustling backpacker
were sent to unravel the mystery of the source of the Nile.
facilities, and an upmarket tented camp and hotel. This is
This river, the longest in the world, flowed through the desert,
because the 50 kilometres (31 miles) stretch of the Nile north
yet brought life in its floodwater every year. Where did all this
of Jinja is now a mecca for white-water rafting, river surfing,
water come from? The Sudd (Arabic for obstacle) – a huge,
kayaking, bungee jumping, jet-boat riding and quad biking.
papyrus-clogged swamp, thwarted earlier attempts to follow the
All the rapids at the Bujagali Falls are named to heighten the anticipation, for instance: ‘Total Gunga’, ‘Silverback’, ‘Rib
river upstream. Until 1856 little was known of the source of the Nile, the
Cage’ and ‘Surf City’. Jinja is at the head of the Napoleon Gulf,
great river that was the cradle of western civilisation, that had
on the northern edge of Lake Victoria, and lies on the east
been known to the Greek geographer Ptolemy in AD 150. He
bank of the Victoria Nile. The town is perhaps best known for
had reported that the Nile originated in two great lakes in central
being the source of the Nile. Even as it leaves the lake, the Nile
Africa about 10 degrees south of the Equator, and flanked by the
is a surprisingly large river and it is a bit spooky to think of it
peaks of the ‘Mountains of the Moon’. This explanation had been
6 | asante | february – april 2011
The White Nile near Jinja, has several grade five rapids which offer exhilarating white-water rafting.
destination: uganda
Photo © Peter Holthusen
Above: The latest
incorporated in a map made by an Arab geographer about
activity on
AD 1100.
Photo © David Pluth/Camerapix Magazines Ltd.
the rapids is
In the mid-1850s, the mysteries of the Niger and the Blue Nile
Adrift’s
solved, scientific curiosity reverted to the next of Africa’s great
adrenaline-
rivers, the White Nile. European missionaries and traders had
soaked
ascended it as far as the border of Uganda, but beyond here
jet-boat
its course was unknown. Finally, in 1862, John Hanning Speke
Wild Nile Jet.
correctly identified Ripon Falls as the source of the Nile, a theory that would be confirmed by Henry Morton Stanley in 1875.
Left:
Speke named the falls after the Marquess of Ripon, a former
Two
President of the RGS, while a second set of rapids about one
kilometres
kilometre downriver subsequently became known as Owen
upstream
Falls, after Major Roddy Owen, a member of Sir Gerald Portal’s
beside the Jinja
1893 expedition to Uganda. But the local name for the site has
Nile Resort is
survived too, since Jinja is a corruption of ‘Ejjinja’ (The Place of
the Nile High
Flat Rocks), which is not only the original Luganda name for the
Camp which
Ripon Falls, but also that of a village and associated sacrificial
has a 44
stone that stood close by.
metres bungee jump.
Jinja lies in southeastern Uganda, approximately 87 kilometres (54 miles) by road, east of Kampala. The city is considered the
>>
The White Nile near Jinja, has become known as the adventure sports capital of East Africa. february – april 2011 | asante | 7
Photo © Camerapix
Photo © Camerapix
destination: uganda
and railway access all enabled Jinja to grow in size. By 1906, a street pattern had been laid out, and Indian traders moved in, establishing a small community in 1910.
>>
The local economy was further boosted capital of the Kingdom of Busoga. It was formerly the industrial
by the successful introduction of cotton as
heartland of Uganda, and its present population stands at
a cash crop for export, and by the construction of a railway
138,000, which includes Njeru directly across the river.
line north to Namasagali in 1912. Further growth took place
An informal settlement was founded at Jinja in 1900, when the rocky waterfall was selected as the most suitable place for the telegraph line to Kampala to cross the Nile. Before 1900, Jinja
in 1928 when British-American Tobacco Uganda (BATU) established a tobacco processing factory in Jinja. In 1954, with the opening of the Owen Falls Dam, (later
was a small fishing village that benefited from being located on
renamed Nalubaale Power Station), the Ripon Falls were
the long-distance trade routes
submerged. Most of the ‘Flat Rocks’ that gave the area its name
Jinja’s rapid emergence as a pivotal commercial centre and
disappeared under the water as well. However, the dam meant
international transport hub was encouraged by the completion
that Jinja enjoyed clean, potable water on tap and an unwavering
of the railway line from Mombasa, 1,400 kilometres (900 miles)
electricity supply.
away, to the Kenyan lake port of Kisumu, and the introduction of a connecting ferry service. Cotton packing, nearby sugar estates,
8 | asante | february – april 2011
Jinja’s proximity to this reliable source of cheap electricity proved attractive to industry, and several companies, including
Above: Construction of the Owen Falls Dam changed the face of Jinja forever. Inset: Whitewashed walls and neatly manicured lawn of the Jinja Post Office.
destination: uganda
Photo © Camerapix
Above: The railway bridge spanning the Nile was opened in 1931.
the Manchester-based Calico Printers Association, in association
been mirrored by the emergence of the river corridor as a major
with the Uganda Development Corporation (UDC), constructed a
tourism centre in the region, with the emphasis strongly on
large textile mill (Nyanza Textile Industries Limited), known locally
adrenalin-orientated activities.
as ‘Nytil’. By 1973 the company employed about 3,000 people
The Bujagali Falls, which lies downstream of the source of
and exclusively used Ugandan cotton to spin, weave, and dye or
the Nile, an hour’s drive east of Kampala, is the launching point
print, to sell via its own retail chain, Lebel, throughout Uganda
for a commercial white-water rafting route that ranks as one of
and Kenya. Genuine Nytil fabric was recognised by the ‘Silver
the most thrilling and safest in the world, passing through three
Shilling’ – a foil piece resembling a shilling which was inserted at
heart-stopping grade five rapids in one day.
approximately one metre intervals along the edge of every length of cloth produced. As Jinja grew, new roads were constructed, serving the
There are several companies offering a variety of itineraries without compromise. A typical itinerary would include a transfer from your hotel at Jinja. After a full safety demonstration you will
many who lived outside the town. Each morning in the 1960s
then enjoy a half-day adventure white-water rafting. With lots of
there would be a line of two-wheel traffic heading for the
good rapids, including the mighty ‘Itanda’ (The Bad Place) and a
sokoni or marketplace with cargoes of bananas or sacks of
beautiful river with spectacular flora and fauna, there are some
charcoal.
very exciting sections with space between to lie back and float
Jinja suffered during the 1970s and subsequent periods of economic turmoil, but a more recent economic upswing has
along taking in the scenery and enjoying the wildlife, particularly the many species of birds to be found here.
>>
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NFT Consult – BURUNDI Kinanira, Bujumbura, Burundi Tel: 257 (0) 79300660
General Email: inquiries@nftconsult.com Website: www.nftconsult.com
february – april 2011 | asante | 9
destination: uganda
Photo © Peter Holthusen
The Bujagali Falls is the launching point for a commercial white-water rafting route that ranks as one of the most thrilling and safest in the world.
>> Two kilometres upstream beside the Jinja Nile Resort is the
nearby Mabira Forest Reserve, which straddles the Kampala-
Nile High Camp which has a 44 metres bungee jump. Here,
Jinja road about 20 kilometres (12 miles) west of Jinja, is one of
intrepid jumpers leap from a 12 metres cantilevered steel
the largest forest areas in Central Uganda. This popular nature
structure on top of a towering cliff above the Nile. If you want
park hosts grasslands, forested valleys and an astonishing
an extra adrenaline rush, there is the option of being dipped into
variety of bird and monkey species.
the river on a longer bungee. Often performing at this site is the ‘Ugandan Acrobatic’, Jeremiah Bazale. Another form of adrenaline rush is supplied by Uganda’s first
Apart from its natural attractions, Jinja also offers a variety of fascinating cultural sites such as the Satya Narayan Hindu Temple with its bronze statue of Mahatma Gandhi,
jet-boat Wild Nile Jet, a 12-seater beast powered by a 450
commemorating one of the spots where his ashes were
horsepower Chevrolet engine and capable of speeds of over
scattered. For a less religious experience, Jinja also hosts
90 kilometres per hour (60 metres per hour). The 30-minute
the famous Nile Brewery in Njeru, which gives you a taste of
assault on the river won’t reduce your carbon footprint, but it’s
a local beer that is very popular in Africa, the Nile Special
an amazing white-knuckle ride, racing up and down minor rapids,
Lager.
throwing 360 spins and playing chicken with riverine rocks
Possibilities for nightlife in Jinja are quite modest, although
Kayaking, river surfing and quad biking trips are available for those
some bars and restaurants such as Black Lantern, Bujagali’s
seeking solitude in a magical setting.
premier dining destination, and Gately on Nile, a uniquely
Fishing for Nile perch and tilapia attracts many anglers to the
renovated grand colonial guest house on the shores of Lake
Bujagali Falls. The fast-flowing waters above and below the falls
Victoria, which offers a Bistro-style menu of continental dishes
are probably the best places from which to cast off. The king
spiced by an authentic Thai cuisine, are well worth a visit.
of the freshwater fish is without doubt the massive Nile perch,
A visit to this enchanting city on the shores of Africa’s largest
while the much smaller tilapia, which makes good eating, can be
lake will not disappoint. It is the human psyche that demands we
found on the menus of many of Kampala’s finest restaurants.
discover and explore. If you’re seeking an adrenaline rush amidst
The actual ‘Source of the Nile’ is marked by a plaque, but if you are seeking to explore the natural wonders of the area, the 10 | asante | february – april 2011
some of the most spectacular scenery in Uganda, you’ll be well rewarded for charting a course to Jinja.
Above: Sun deck at the Wild Waters Lodge overlooking the rapids at the Bujagali Falls.
destination: kenya
KENYA’S Capital City, Nairobi
Photo © Wikimedia
Nairobi extends to all-comers the warmth of a golden welcome. Asante explores this city in the sun.
T
from nothing into a city of more than three million people in an area of about 700 square kilometres (270 square
miles) is remarkable enough. But it is also a brawling, dynamic maelstrom of cultures and enterprises that reflects its melting-pot heritage. The city sometimes seems a little contradictory and
eccentric. Indeed, Nairobi only arose as a secondary coincidence of George Whitehouse’s unwavering ambition and steely determination to build a railway line from the Kenyan coast to Lake Victoria. As General Manager of the Uganda railway, Whitehouse was no visionary in matters metropolitan and he chose Nairobi (Maasai for ‘place of the cool waters’) as his main upcountry railhead. Nairobi, then just a bleak and disease-infested swamp, was, in engineering terms, the last piece of totally flat ground
12 | asante | february – april 2011
Photo © Philip Kamakya
he fact that Nairobi has grown in a little over 100 years
before the hard climb up the eastern shoulders of the Great Rift Valley escarpment. It is doubtful if the thought that ‘Nairobi might one day be an
covered an area of 350 square
might have chosen a more suitable location. But, like so much of
kilometres (135 square miles). Presently,
Kenya in the first 50 years of the 20th century, Nairobi evolved
Kenya continues to grow at an astonishing
spontaneously, half-way between the Indian Ocean and the lake.
speed and with great energy if, at times,
In less than a year after the railhead was established, on 16 April
seemingly without control. Despite its
1900, Nairobi was given township status by the Zanzibar-based
shantytown origins, to which many suburban
British consul-general, Sir Arthur Hardinge.
areas seem to be reverting, Nairobi remains truly
Nairobi was a municipality covering 104 square kilometres (40
Nairobi’s buildings stand in silhouette against the evening sky. Below: Uhuru Park panorama, Nairobi.
at half a million and the city
important capital’ ever crossed Whitehouse’s mind: otherwise he
The first town clerk was appointed in 1904, by which time
Opposite:
At independence, the population was estimated
memorable in the contrasts and experiences it affords. Today, Nairobi is not just the capital city of Kenya but the
square miles). It was invested as a city on 30 March 1950 when
economic, if not political, capital of much of east and central
the visiting Duke of Gloucester presented a Royal charter on
Africa, as well as the headquarters of the United Nations
behalf of Great Britain’s King George VI.
Environment Programme (UNEP).
Kenya attained independence on 12 December 1963,
Situated approximately 500 kilometres (300 miles) from the
an event that took place at Uhuru Gardens, Kenya’s largest
coast and 1,670 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level in the city
memorial park, located along Lang’ata road in Nairobi. The Uhuru
centre, the metropolitan area stretches from the Embakasi plains
(meaning freedom) Gardens was given the name in memory of
in the east up the once-wooded slopes of the eastern wall of the
Kenya’s struggle for independence. In 1988, 25 years later,
Great Rift Valley in the west, from the Ngong hills in the south to
the Independence Monument was constructed in Uhuru Park,
the foothills of the Aberdare mountains in the north.
a famous recreational Park, along Uhuru Highway. Uhuru Park
Blessed with a pleasant, temperate climate all the year round,
surrounds a man-made lake and hosts various political and
Nairobi is best in September when the jacaranda, bougainvillea
religious meetings. Adjacent to Uhuru Park is Central Park which
and flame trees bloom. Most rain falls in April/ May and
contains a memorial Mzee Jomo Kenyatta, the first president
November and between June and August the skies are often
of Kenya.
heavily overcast.
Today, Nairobi is not just the capital city of Kenya but the economic capital of much of east and central Africa. International flights serve Nairobi daily from many centres in Europe, as well as regular scheduled services from America and Asia. Refurbished in 1991 with many improved passenger facilities and well equipped duty free shopping mall, Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) is one of the busiest in Africa. From there, the tarmacadamed broad dual carriageway, currently undergoing major improvements. Starts as Mombasa Highway and connects JKIA, to the city and beyond. It slices through part of the industrial area which houses, among others, Nairobi’s inland port with its giant container terminal, the General Motors vehicle assembly plant and the Firestone tyre factory. It is hard to imagine that, nearby, wildlife roams free in the Nairobi National Park which celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2007. With its savannah plains, swamps, gallery forests, valleys and gorges, the park is a rare legacy for any city. More than 80 mammal species have been recorded – including black rhino and several prides of lions – and some 500 species of bird life. Hippo and crocodile live in the Athi River and the park’s several ponds and waterholes. At close proximity and overlooking the Nairobi National Park is the African Heritage House that offers
>>
february – april 2011 | asante | 13
Photo © Wikimedia
destination: kenya
>>
spectacular views and has a blend of the mud architecture from
Neighbouring KICC is City Hall (1937) which lies across the road
Above:
across Africa.
next to the old law courts designed by Sir Herbert Baker.
A snapshot
The Parliament Buildings, built in the 1950s to the design of
of Nairobi’s
Kenya Railways headquarters. The railway station has changed
the architects Amyas Connell and Thornley Dyer, are a focal point
resplendent
little over the years, a reminder of the great days of steam.
of the city’s master plan, drawn up initially in 1948. A tour of the
thoroughfare
Trains travel from there daily, south to Mombasa and north to the
Parliament Buildings can be arranged through the sergeant-at-
in the central
Kenya highlands and beyond to Kampala, Uganda, as well as to
arms. The remains of Kenya’s first president of the republic, Mzee
business
Kisumu on the shores of Lake Victoria.
Jomo Kenyatta, lie in a mausoleum in the buildings’ grounds.
district.
Situated at Nairobi railway station, near the city centre is the
The Railway Museum, located near the railway station, is a
All Saints Cathedral (Anglican), on Kenyatta Avenue, is another
‘must’ for steam buffs. Along with several old steam locomotives,
national landmark, as is a small protected building at the Kenyatta
including the massive Garratt articulated juggernauts; one can sit
Avenue/ Uhuru Highway roundabout, the now sadly neglected
in the carriage from which railways police inspector Charles Ryall
1913 Nairobi provincial commissioner’s office.
was dragged to his death by one of the infamous man-eating lions of Tsavo more than 100 years ago. Approaching the city centre from the airport, past the Nyayo
The McMillan Library on Banda Street, guarded by two handsome stone lions, was donated to the city by Lady McMillan as a memorial to her husband, Sir William Northrup McMillan,
stadium (crammed at weekends by football fans watching their
knighted for his services to East Africa during the First World
favourite teams in action) the city centre skyline is outlined by
War. The Jamia mosque, the city’s main Muslim place of worship,
a number of strikingly attractive, modern high-rise buildings,
stands next to the library, beautiful when it is illuminated by night.
including the Kenyatta International Conference Centre (KICC),
The colourful city market and bazaar area are in this same vicinity,
a premiere events venue in Africa, with its 33-storey tower
both worth visiting, if only to see how Nairobi lives. This is a good
block, amphitheatre and plenary hall seating 4,000. Since
place to buy Kenyan carvings and other souvenirs.
its construction in the early 1970s, KICC has hosted many major conferences and brought countless visitors to Nairobi.
A quaint reminder of times past can be found in Jeevanjee Gardens, to the left of Moi Avenue when heading out of the city. It is
>>
Nairobi is an excellent centre to visit for business or leisure since it is well-served with international standard facilities. 14 | asante | february – april 2011
Photo © Camerapix
destination: kenya
>>
Above:
the stone statue of Queen Victoria, unveiled by her son, the Duke of
as Westlands, Hurlingham, Lavington, Karen and Muthaiga.
Connaught, in March 1906. The gardens, the city’s first recreational
Nairobi
Shopping malls provide adequate parking whilst you visit the
area, were donated to Nairobi by A M ‘Haj’ Jeevanjee, who made
National Park,
shops, coffee bars and restaurants, although most visitors will
his fortune as a railway contractor. A favourite lunchtime spot of
in which these
probably use one of the many taxis that are available around
Nairobi’s workers and itinerant preachers who noisily harangue
two rhino live
the city. There are some good restaurants, too, at Karen,
them, the gardens are transformed toward the last quarter of each
is less
a visit to which can be combined with an Out of Africa trip to the
year when their jacaranda trees come into full bloom.
than 10
Karen Blixen Museum in the shadow of the five-knuckle Ngong-
kilometres
Hills.
from the
Major hotels in the city centre include: opposite the National Archives on Moi avenue, the Nairobi Hilton, around which much
For the sports-crazy nation which excels not least in football
legendary
of Nairobi’s traffic seems to speed non-stop whatever the time of
and athletics, the vast Moi International Sports Complex at
day; the New Stanley Hotel, with its famous Thorn Tree pavement
Kenyatta
Kasarani, with its 60,000-seat arena, lies 15 kilometres (9
café, at the ever-busy intersection of Kenyatta Avenue and
International
miles) beyond the city centre. Other popular leisure facilities on
Kimathi Street; the 680 Hotel on Kenyatta Avenue; the Nairobi
Conference
Nairobi’s perimeter include the City Park; the magnificently treed
Intercontinental, opposite the Holy Family Basilica Cathedral on City
Centre.
Arboretum, social, golf and sailing clubs; a fine race-course off
Hall Way; the park-facing Nairobi Serena, on Nyerere road just
the Ngong Road where horse racing takes place most Sunday
off Kenyatta Avenue; the Panafric at the top of Kenyatta avenue;
afternoons of the year, and the Bomas of Kenya, one of the
the Grand Regency, off the Uhuru highway; the elegant Nairobi
largest theatres in East Africa, where the rich wonderful diverse
Safari Club on University Way and, on Harry Thuku road past
cultures that make up Kenya are showcased. For souvenir
Nairobi University, the tradition-preserving, legend-creating Norfolk
hunters, the vibrant and exciting Maasai Market offers diverse
Hotel which has stood on the same site since 1904. Out-of-town-
colourful displays of artisan’s products.
centre hotels, several of which provide regular commuter services
Nairobi is an excellent centre to visit for business or leisure
to and from the city and lie in their own spacious gardens, include
since it is well-served with international standard facilities. It is
the Fairview, the Boulevard, the Landmark, the Mayfair Court and
certainly worth spending two or three days there as part of a
the Safari Park Hotel.
longer holiday to Kenya. It’s fresh, temperate climate providing a
In recent years, much of Nairobi’s action has moved away from the city centre, with its acute parking problems, to suburbs such 16 | asante | february – april 2011
refreshing contrast to the sultry heat of the coastal beaches and the hot and dusty game parks.
february – april 2011 | asante | 17
destination: tanzania
Two
Tanzanian
Photos © Christine O’Maley
Safaris with a Twist
There is nothing quite like being on an African safari. Hanging out the roof of a jeep, the hot savannah air blowing through your hair like a hairdryer on full bore and the endless anticipation – what will we see next? It is one of my all time favourite things to do, says Christine O’Maley. However, she found there are other ways to take in this vast wilderness.
Hot air ballooning over the Serengeti – Tanzania
I
f I feel too hot, I can ascend; if too cold, I can come down. Should there be a mountain, I can pass over it; a precipice, I can sweep across it; a river, I can sail beyond it; a storm, I can
rise away above it; a torrent, I can skim it like a bird! I can speed onward with the rapidity of a tornado, sometimes
A green and gold striped balloon, a mind-boggling 14-storeys high, lies limp on the grass. As night’s dark blanket lifts and more Range Rovers pull up we all pile out for the safety briefing. Aside from a bunch of strangers needing to lie horizontally on top of each other in the two-person compartments – take off sounds pretty easy. Jason, our pilot,
at the loftiest heights, sometimes only a hundred feet above the
pulls heartily on ropes and pumps the gas until he is red-faced.
soil, while the map of Africa unrolls itself beneath my gaze in the
Before we have a chance to bid terra firma farewell, we are
great atlas of the world.”
upright and drifting gently off the ground. Jules Verne – Five Weeks in a Balloon
The flight follows the Seronera river, wriggling like a silvery snake below us.
Whether or not you’re a fan of Jules Verne, there is something
Hyenas pounce as if playing an invisible game and we are
incredibly adventurous and romantic about the idea of hot air
treated to the rare sight of hippos out of the water. We are
ballooning. Add the vast golden game-rich plains of the Serengeti
rising with the sun.
to the equation and you have an unforgettable safari. The stars are still sparkling when we are collected from our
When Jason isn’t filling the balloon with loud shots from the powerful whisper burners, we are absorbed in the silence of the
central Serengeti campsite for a hot air balloon safari. Having just
sleepy Serengeti. The first lion is on its own under a tree, a little
started five weeks in a Balloon, mum is particularly excited about
too far away to get excited about. Then we fly right over the top
the rare chance to see Africa from above.
of a pride that sits and watches us glide by with a look that
We arrive at a large field and are told to stay in the four-wheel-drive; lions occasionally venture into the area. We can make out the shape of the 16-man basket on its side.
18 | asante | february – april 2011
seems more filled with hunger than curiousity. For most of the flight we are in line with the treetops but still above the birds and their nests. When we reach the open
Above: A rare treat – champagne breakfast at the Serengeti plains.
Add the vast golden game-rich plains of the Serengeti to the equation and you have an unforgettable safari. plains Jason takes us to 304.8 metres (1,000 feet). We glide so high that a trio of gazelles looks like ants darting awkwardly at the sound of the burners. As the sun climbs higher in the sky the balloon’s shadow appears like a bruise on the arid ground.
Right: ‘We are treated to the rare sight of hippos out of the water.’ Below: ‘Then we fly right over the top of a pride that sits and watches us glide by with a look that seems more filled with hunger than curiousity.’
Unfortunately we have missed the wildebeest migration but their tracks are so ingrained in the black and gold soil it’s easy to imagine what a spectacle the annual event must be from the air. All too quickly, it’s time to land. Back in sitting position, with all loose items tucked in, Jason brings the balloon down with the lightest touch near a road. We are safely back on terra firma but this isn’t just any old ground – we are walking through the same plains that lions and leopards frequent. We have just seen a hyena terrorising some gazelle and a giraffe is striding elegantly across a distant field. To celebrate the voyage we share a couple of glasses of champagne – still standing around in the wild – and Jason regales us with the story of how champagne became interconnected with ballooning after the French king made every pilot carry a bottle to prove his pioneering countrymen weren’t aliens. We’re whisked to a large acacia tree nearby where two tables have been set up for our bush breakfast. Men in turbans wash our hands with warm water from urns and two toilets open to the Serengeti proudly proclaim ‘Loo with a view’. Robed waiters tend
>>
february – april 2011 | asante | 19
destination: tanzania
It jumps on the bonnet of a nearby car, moves to the window then brazenly leaps into the drivers seat as if heading off for a drive. It’s one of several regulars at the farm and has been named Bahati, which means ‘good luck’ in Kiswahili. I’m not exactly a ‘monkey person’ so it takes some time before I’m comfortable with Bahati climbing on me but I only have to realise how much of a treat it is and in no time I’m loving the primate’s affection. As owner Elisabeth and Laslo are vets as well as horse enthusiasts there is a real menagerie of animals on the farm. Willy the warthog jumps up on the fence like an excited dog, Bambi the impala acts bashful and banded mongooses Fix and Foxi scamper around their cage under the cackling silverycheeked hornbills Snoopy and Kelele. If you’re lucky you might even get to see some serval cats and kittens, and this is all before we have even mounted our horses and left the farm. Over three days we saddle up for rides through the coffee farm (fresh Makoa coffee is delivered to our room first thing every morning); around Europe’s vegetable garden where potatoes and beans are growing; across rivers bubbling with icy water from Mt. Kilimanjaro’s peak; into villages where children leap back at the sight of the farasi (‘horses’ in Kiswahili) before waving wildly at us; and through endless fields of golden maize. Only from horseback are we able to get this unique perspective
>>
of the real Africa. I want to practise, practise, practise so I can to our every need; refilling champagne glasses, pouring coffee, serving fruit. The smell of bacon fills the air. ``Isn’t this dangerous?’’ I ask, wondering if lions might get the smell confused with warthog. During the migration the odd wildebeest or zebra wanders by but other than that animals tend to stay away, I’m told. What a rare treat, to not only glimpse the Serengeti and its residents waking up with the sun but starting our own day with a champagne breakfast under the shade of an acacia tree in the wilds of Africa! Horse riding on the slopes of Mt. Kilimanjaro – Tanzania There is a farm on the southern slopes of Africa’s highest peak, Mt. Kilimanjaro, offering horse riding safaris. If you are experienced enough – and you need to be a real pro to handle a horse during encounters with wild animals – you can head out with Elisabeth and spot game. If you are not, however, there are still plenty of opportunities to get out and about in the heart and soul of Africa on horseback. I fall into the latter category. In fact, I have never really ridden a horse but I just love the idea of trotting through villages and fields throbbing with African culture. From the moment we arrive at Makoa Farm, a short drive from the town of Moshi in northern Tanzania, it’s clear we don’t need to head out on a safari to get up close and personal with wild animals. As we unload our bags from the boot of the taxi a Sykes monkey appears.
20 | asante | february – april 2011
come back and head out on a safari ride. Did you know ‘safari’ is actually a Kiswahili word meaning to travel?
Left: The African wildcat is fierce when threatened. Below: ‘Only from horseback are we able to get this unique perspective of the real Africa.’
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destination: southern sudan
Southern Sudan
Photos © Reto Kuster
Beyond Juba
Travelling in rural areas of Southern Sudan offers a unique insight into a life that is strongly shaped by traditions.
Above:
However, a visit to a Dinka cattle camp is a challenge, as Reto Kuster found out.
Dinka cattle in swamps
in Juba, the booming centre of Southern Sudan, we are
A
forest, dot the otherwise rather flat landscape. Traffic is sparse
greeted with a mix of friendliness and surprise as we
and, in some small villages, hidden between stands of mango
enquire about departures for buses heading north. While we
trees, children sell wild honey in small bottles and fresh peanuts.
talk to bus owners, several Landcruisers are being loaded with
Before heading to Aweil, we stock up with provisions and spend
baggage. Four-wheel drive vehicles carrying a dozen and more
the night in Wau, Southern Sudan’s second biggest town.
s we approach the bus station in the Customs Market
passengers leave for places where roads are impassable for
Just north of Juba impressive inselbergs, covered in lush
Southern Sudan is a destination for explorers, a true
ordinary buses. We opt for transport to Aweil in northern
wilderness. Featuring Africa’s second largest swamp, the Sudd is
Bahr-el-Ghazal state, some 700 kilometres north of Juba.
a vast labyrinth of rivers and swamps, devoid of roads, navigable
Travelling in Southern Sudan is a challenge. Only a few major
by riverboats only in some parts. During the rainy season, vast
towns, such as Rumbek, Wau and Aweil are connected by daily
areas of Southern Sudan are flooded. Now, at the end of the
buses to Juba. Distances are long and during the rainy season
rainy season, the landscape is an intense green, and the air is
many roads are impassable. Even in the dry season it is advisable
clear, devoid of the dust storms coming from the north. During
to carry an extra spare wheel and other equipment in case of a
the dry season however, the vegetation turns brownish, small
breakdown.
rivers dry up and dust is everywhere.
22 | asante | february – april 2011
of Northern Bahr-el-Ghazal state, Southern Sudan. Opposite: Dinka elder ponders over the day’s activities. The cattle camp is the most important cultural asset of the Dinka.
destination: southern sudan
Southern Sudan is a destination for explorers, a true wilderness that features Africa’s second largest swamp, the Sudd. Southern Sudan features one of Africa’s lowest population densities. At times, no sign of human life is seen along roads for hours. However, the first impression is misleading: the land is not empty. Dinka people, who are the largest ethnic group in Southern Sudan, traditionally move with their cattle over huge distances following the seasonal availability of pasture and water. At the cattle market in Wanyok, cattle keepers from the region sell their animals under the eyes of many bystanders. Negotiations over prices of cattle can take a while, but at the end both seller and buyer are happy. Here, we meet a ‘spear master’ called bany dit, an elderly man carrying several spears. Spear masters are highly respected among the Dinka. As spiritual leaders, they perform rituals to protect the cattle from disease and to call for rain and good harvest. To experience the Dinka’s symbiosis with cattle, we drive a sturdy car from Aweil town towards Warawar, first on a murram road, then following narrow roads which sometimes turn into
>>
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february – april 2011 | asante | 23
destination: southern sudan
>>
mere paths, often filled with water and mud. After a while, our car gets stuck in the mud, and we have no other choice than to continue on foot to a nearby homestead. By the time we arrive it is already dark. Luol, a cattle keeper and head of a family, greets us warmly and arranges the slaughtering of a goat. Hospitality to visitors is held in high regard. We enjoy the delicious speciality of the area, goat’s meat with a sauce consisting of cow milk and vegetables. Meanwhile, the full moon illuminates the homestead and, from afar, we can hear the sound of cows. When we inquire
Above:
whether we could see them the next morning, Luol explains that
a large, flat area during the day, slowly follow the call of the drum.
by then they might have moved far.
Cattle are
Huge oxen and bulls, and numerous cows and calves return to
“The cattle move quickly, following the grass. And there is no road
the pride and
the cattle camp. As the cattle arrive at the camp, boys and girls
where they are heading to.”
wealth of the
tie them to a stick. Suddenly, to the cheering of the youngsters,
Dinka people.
The Dinka’s life is closely related to their cattle. The status of
two impressive bulls start to fight. Akuei, an elderly cattle camp
a man is defined by the number of cattle he owns. “Cattle are
leader, laughs as we seek cover behind a tree. “Don’t worry. They
our bank accounts”, laughs Luol. Large herds of several hundred
just challenge each other. We will separate them if they cause
cows are not uncommon. The bigger the herd and the more
trouble.” Akuei then mentions that the camp would probably move
beautiful the cows, the larger the pride of the owner. In Dinka
to another place next week. Following seasonal changes of rain
culture, cattle are only slaughtered for special occasions such
and drought, cattle keepers move between the lowland swamps
as weddings, and a Dinka man can only marry if he owns enough
called toc in the dry season (November to April) and the highland
cows. Cattle are used as bride price and are paid in legal disputes
pastures called gok during the rainy season (May to October)
as compensation. “Cows are not killed for nothing,” explains Luol.
when large parts of the land are flooded.
“Nowadays cows are also sold to pay for medical treatment in the
Life still follows the traditions that are passed down from
regional hospital and for school fees.” The night is warm enough,
generation to generation. Dinka boys and girls live in the cattle
so we sleep under the stars in the Dinka settlement consisting
camps and acquire skills of cattle keeping. They help the cattle
of half a dozen grass-thatched houses called tukuls. In gardens
owners in milking the cows and they collect the dried cow dung
nearby, sorghum and millet are grown.
which is lit in the evening to protect cattle and people against
The next morning we set off early at dawn, moving on foot at
mosquitoes and flies. As the sun goes down, a flock of beautiful
a fast pace, but Luol warned us that the distance would be long.
crowned cranes flies in. Bird life is particularily profilic along
Finally, after several hours’ walk, we arrive at the cattle camp, but
swampy areas where various species of kingfisher, herons and
the cows have already moved further to graze. In late afternoon,
various migratory birds abound. To the sound of old Dinka songs,
several men beat a drum called a loor. The cattle, spread out over
we settle for another night.
24 | asante | february – april 2011
Photo © Wikimedia
feature
OUT OF AFRICA Kate Nivison follows in the footsteps of Karen Blixen.
I
Above: Karen Blixen Museum, Karen, Kenya. The house is surrounded
had a farm in Africa at the foot of the Ngong Hills . . .’
Madagascar, the Comoros or Mozambique. The Dhow Harbour
by a tranquil
To write a book that has become a much-loved classic is one
is still very atmospheric, and can be easily reached on a walking
garden and
way to be remembered, but when it is made into an
tour of Mombasa Old Town or by taxi from the city centre. There
indigenous
Oscar-winning film with Hollywood stars and wonderfully
might even be a few dhows at anchor (where once there would
forest.
evocative music, you are well on your way to immortality.
have been hundreds), but Kilindini Creek hasn’t changed that
Something like 60 million people have seen Out of Africa, and the
much, because most of the new port development is not visible
book has sold over 1.5 million copies. Of the many thousands of
from here.
‘
people who visit Kenya each year, many are hoping to recapture
The passengers were then rowed ashore, often risking a
a little of its magic by visiting some of the places associated with
soaking, to the Leven Steps, and escorted to Leven House to
its author, Karen Blixen. But how much is there left to see, and
complete the formalities. Looking at it now, it’s hard to believe
what would she herself now recognise of the Africa she wrote so
that in those days this venerable building was both the Customs
movingly about?
House and Government House. To send word home of their
In January 1914, Karen, or Tania to her friends, arrived
arrival, the newcomers would have visited the Post Office, which
in Mombasa’s Kilindini harbour after a 19-days voyage from
has survived largely because it was built very solidly to reassure
Europe, as did all would-be settlers at that time. There was no
the Indian railway workers that their savings would get home
dock, and the steamer anchored among the trading dhows to
safely. Meanwhile the luggage, which in Karen’s case included
be immediately besieged by a mini-armada of canoes offering
her fine china and glass, would be dispatched up the hill to the
everything from shells, trinkets and fruit to trips ashore. To get
Mombasa Club beside the Fort by an ingenious rail-and-trolley
the flavour of that experience these days, it has to be from a
system, and some wonderful pictures of it in use can be seen in
small cruise ship visiting the tiny ports of lesser-known places in
the Fort Museum.
26 | asante | february – april 2011
Opposite top: Front view of the Karen Blixen Museum.
feature
gift shop. Many of the Old Town streets have been partially restored, especially the finer merchants’ houses with their brass-studded, heavy wooden doors, balconies and fretwork screens for the women’s quarters. Some of these are now small hotels or antique shops selling Out-of-Africa-type souvenirs, but there’s still enough original ambience to deflect charges of theme-parkery. After their wedding luncheon, the Blixens’ party took the famous Uganda Railway to Photo © Kate Nivison
Nairobi and apparently drank champagne in their pyjamas before settling in for one of Africa’s most interesting train rides. Unofficially called the Lunatic Express, the train still somehow manages to chug its way from sea level up a series of scenic
Of the many thousands of people who visit Kenya each year, many are hoping to recapture a little of its magic by visiting some of the places associated with its author, Karen Blixen. escarpments through the Tsavo National Park to the main plateau height of around 2,000 metres (6,000 feet). Most visitors now make the journey by air, but on a fine day when there’s a view of snow-capped Kilimanjaro and the high plains, it’s possible to capture some of what Karen Blixen herself said of flying in Africa with no intended pun – that it was the most transporting pleasure of her life. In smaller planes going directly to the game parks from Nairobi or Mombasa, the experience can be even more Out of Africa, as her words come back: “You may at times fly low enough to see the animals on the Photo © Kate Nivison
plains and feel towards them as God did when he had just created them . . .” Before leaving the Mombasa connections behind, however, and especially if travelling north to one of the coastal resorts, it’s worth mentioning that Denys Finch Hatton, Karen Blixen’s lover after her marriage foundered,
Above: Old farm machinery in the grounds of the house.
had a small estate at Takaunga near Kilifi The Mombasa Club, where Karen Dinesen was married to
Creek. He would sometimes fly her down there, landing on the
Baron Bror Blixen the morning after her arrival, has been much
beach, for a weekend by the Indian Ocean. One night, she wrote
enlarged since, yet retains its air of exclusivity. Opposite the Club,
of how ‘a row of Arab dhows came along, close to the coast,
the original Coffee House where the Swahili traders would do
running noiselessly before the monsoon, a file of brown
business continues to serve refreshments, but is now more of a
shadow-sails under the moon.’ You could be as lucky.
>>
february – april 2011 | asante | 27
Photo © Kate Nivison
feature
>>
Even today Takaunga is slightly off the beaten track (the new coast
traffic, little is left that Karen Blixen would recognise. Imagine
road to Malindi) but the beach is beautiful and was used for both
her amazement, and perhaps dismay, at the way the town has
Out of Africa and White Mischief which features the goings-on of
grown, from a population of tens of thousands when she first
Kenya’s ‘Happy Valley’ set, some of whom were their friends.
arrived, to the bustling, jostling one and a half million people
But it is of course the scenes of her life on that coffee farm at
today. Many of the roads and tree-lined avenues have been
the foot of the Ngong Hills, only 19 kilometres (12 miles) from
renamed, but there is of course, the once infamous Muthaiga
the centre of Nairobi, that stay longest in the mind. In fact the
Country Club, which opened for business (and pleasure) on New
couple did not move to the stone-built house seen in the film for
Year’s Eve 1913 and is still going strong. Its modern amenities
nearly five years. Their original more modest bungalow is now
include acres of fine tropical gardens with an excellent golf
incorporated into a hotel in the suburb of Karen, named after
course.Only 15 minutes’ drive north-east of the city centre
her when she eventually had to sell the estate. But the house,
through the wealthy suburb of Parklands, it is unfortunately for
now the Karen Blixen Museum, is a must for all her fans. It is
members only. In the Blixens’ day, things were more relaxed,
much as it was when she left it so regretfully in 1931. Many
with settlers coming in by ox-wagon for a hot bath or taking the
fascinating photographs with some of her belongings are there,
odd pot-shot at the fixtures and fittings, and occasionally each
and the film company has donated the copies of original furniture
other. So exclusive is it that some maps and guide books omit
made specially for the film, including the white mosquito-netted
it completely.
bed and famous gramophone. The elegant panelled dining room is
Instead, try the Ngong Races, held every second Sunday for
set as if for one of her sophisticated, candle-lit evenings, and the
most of the year. The course is easily accessible by bus, matatu
stone fireplace by whose light Karen and Denys would dazzle their
(minibus) or taxi (shared or otherwise). And for pure nostalgia,
friends, or each other, with their tales of the place. Outside, along
close to the summit of the Ngong Hills at Point Lamwia, there is
a covered way, is Kumante’s kitchen, re-kitted out with period
the grave of Denys Finch Hatton, marked by an obelisk.
utensils – all of which makes it rather disappointing that no inside photography is allowed.
In Out of Africa, the woman who loved him, and Kenya, so dearly, memorably asks: “If I know a song of Africa, of the giraffe
Perhaps the most evocative spots to pause for a quiet
and the African new moon lying on her back . . . does Africa
moment, are the side veranda with a view of her beloved
know a song of me? Will the air over the plains quiver with a
Ngong Hills, and the back, as seen in the film, where her
colour that I have had on . . . or the full moon throw a shadow
belongings were laid out for sale when she left. Other photo
on the gravel of the drive that is like me?” Her drive may be
opportunities include the drive where she would light a lantern
rough tarmac now, and her dream gone, but Africa certainly
to let friends know she was at home, and a collection of old
does know of Karen Blixen’s song. A suburb of Nairobi is named
coffee farm machinery.
after her, and the emotive music from the film wafts from hotel
As for Nairobi itself, once a morning’s horse ride away, but now around 30 minutes by car from the house, depending on the
28 | asante | february – april 2011
lobbies all over the continent. Maybe she would have approved of that.
Above: Quieter now than in Karen Blixen’s day, Mombasa harbour.
Visi t us at www.jubileeinsurance.com
feature
CATCALLS
Photos © Camerapix
Cristina Kessler offers a brief guide to give you more than a cat in hell’s chance of surviving a close encounter with Africa’s majestic felines.
T
he sun was just beginning to win through the early
what I will never forget – was the power of that almighty roar.
morning chill in Amboseli National Park. We were
It wrapped our bodies with its sheer, vibrating force. Even the
creeping silently through the bush when a troop of
air shook.
baboons started crashing through the treetops overhead.
When we got back to our camp, I read up on a lion’s roar.
“Freeze!” commanded Benson, the local ranger, in an
Another lion can hear it up to five kilometres away, so powerful
urgent whisper. We shuddered to a halt beside him: silent,
is the call. This strange little fact drove me to search for
trembling statues. Suddenly, a 150-kilogrammes lioness came
other unusual facts about the three big cats: lion, leopard and
charging through the bush and skidded to a stop not three
cheetah. Although they all belong to the same genetic family,
metres from us. She was the matriarch of her pride, the
they have very distinct approaches to life.
huntress, and she was angry. As we stood motionless before her, she let out a heaving, ground-shaking roar – Whooooooaaaaarr! – leaving us in no
Calling the Shots The lion’s roar serves two main purposes. It can be a far-flung
doubt as to exactly who was in charge. Every muscle was
warning to wandering nomad lions who may be contemplating
tensed in her lean, powerful body. She showed us her teeth
entering another male’s territory. A five-kilometre range gives
and shook her head, then shattered the dawn with another
the interloper plenty of time to change his mind. It can also
mighty roar.
serve as a beacon, guiding a dispersed pride back home.
It’s an exhilarating and thrilling experience to be charged by a lion while you are on foot. But what impressed me the most –
30 | asante | february – april 2011
The cheetah has a call one would not really associate with a large predator. It’s almost a chirping whimper. I once watched a
Above: Lion cubs are dependent upon their mothers until they can walk to the kill. Opposite: The African leopard resting on a tree.
feature
A little knowledge about these wonderful animals can not only enhance your encounters with them – it can also save your life! forlorn mother, perched on a termite hill, emit short little
The cheetah, often called ‘the greyhound of the cats’, has a
whines to her clubs that were lost in the tall grass. Meck meck,
sleek, streamlined appearance. Its coat is covered with near
she called out, and the babies returned her cries. Eventually
uniform dots that run all the way to the tip of the tail. Two dark
they met again, but I shall never forget the delicateness of that
black lines, the ‘tear lines’, extend from the corners of its eyes
call. The cheetah’s call is a whisper alongside the lion’s shout.
to the corner of its mouth. The head is very small in comparison
The leopard, the shiest and most silent member of the cat
to the rest of the lanky body. Cheetahs are unique in the cat
family, has a very distinctive call. Once you’ve heard it, you’ll
world because they have non-retractable claws, which provide
always recognise it. Some compare it to a raspy human cough,
traction for the high-speed chases they’re so famous for.
while others insist it sounds like a coarse saw cutting wood.
At first glimpse, it’s easy to confuse the cheetah and leopard,
These solitary animals have little use for a call, but when they
if one is just looking at their colours. The leopard is an elegant,
use it, it’s to send one of two messages. Both males and
powerfully built cat with a coat that has always been coveted
females send out a signal that says, ‘This is my territory,
by hunters. Black spots like the cheetah’s adorn the legs,
stay away.’ The other message is strictly female: ‘I’m ready
hindquarters, flanks and head, but the animals’ sides are
to mate, where are you?’
covered with rosettes formed by circular patterns of broken dots. A leopard’s pelt is like a human fingerprint – no two are
Dream Coats With its coat of tawny red to light brown fur, a lion is easy to
ever the same. The jaw muscles and front body muscles are massive, and the sharp teeth are even stronger than a lion’s.
distinguish from a leopard or cheetah. The females and males are also easily discernible, for only the male wears a mane.
Flying Felines
It provides him with protection against neck bites and scratches
Lions are the most sociable of the cats, living in prides of
when fighting, as well as being an attraction for females. It also
between eight and 20 animals. The dominant male lords its
provides males with an excellent excuse not to hunt with the
over three or four females, their young, and two or three
pride, for the bulk of his mane can give him away to potential
juvenile males. The pride generally spends up to 20 hours a
victims. The lion has all the attributes of the perfect predator.
day sleeping, resting or playing in the shade. As the sun sets,
Its head is massive, with powerful jaw muscles and extraordinary
they rise to look for dinner.
teeth. And its tongue has back-curving bumps, designed to give extra traction on fresh, slippery meat.
There are several advantages to living in a pride. Mothers share the responsibility of cub rearing and, when it comes to
>>
february – april 2011 | asante | 31
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Above:
>>
hunting, three heads are better than one. Lions hunting alone
Leopards rely heavily on their keen hearing and sight. They
Cheetah
are estimated to succeed only 17 per cent of the time, while
climb trees or tall termite hills to scan the horizon for game,
family on the
lions hunting in groups of two or three double that average.
then begin a long and arduous stalk to get within pouncing
alert. No
distance. Approaching grazing warthogs, duikers or impalas can
moving object,
The hunt has three clear stages. It begins with a stalking walk,
take hours. This patience serves them well in water, too. They
nor many
crouching low but moving at a trot once the prey has been
are the best swimmers and fishers of the cat genus.
a still one,
The females are the hunters, while the male awaits his meal.
spotted. The lions fan out to reduce the number of escape
Once a leopard gets within pouncing distance, it grabs its
routes, then move into step two, the crouching walk. Slinking
prey with deadly extended claws, then goes for the throat to
low to the ground, they inch forward when the prey is inattentive.
suffocate the animal. One of the leopard’s best-known traits is
This start-and-stop approach allows the lion to get within 50
that it prefers to dine up a tree. This is to protect its kill from
metres of its prey before it drops to a crouch. Tensing all its
passing lions, hyenas, wild dogs and vultures. Leopards are so
muscles, it awaits the perfect moment to pounce. Flying through
powerful that they have been seen jumping three metres high
the air, it swipes at the animal with great sweeping paws,
with a carcass equal to their own 60-80 kilogrammes weight. A
knocking it down and getting it in a stranglehold. Groups of lions
fork in a tree provides the perfect place to prepare their meal by
have been known to bring down giraffes and even elephants.
stripping off the prey’s fur and skin. The mighty cats can survive
The cheetah, in contrast, usually lives alone or in small family groups of mother and cubs. This means they almost always hunt alone. Known for being the fastest land animal over a short
on very little water, drinking down their prey’s blood to meet their moisture and salt needs. Leopards are unusual in that they often develop specific
distance, a cheetah on the hunt is the ultimate speed machine.
eating tastes, hunting only warthogs, gazelle or evenfish – a cat
They begin by stalking their prey to within 100 metres in a
with a particular palette.
low-slung crouch. This is an easy position to attain because they have another unique distinction in the cat family – flexible spines, which allow them to cut from side to side while running at top speed. Full speed is achieved very quickly. A cheetah can go from zero to 110 kilometres an hour in just three seconds. Its stride is six
Rules of the Wild I survived my charging, roaring, heart-stopping lion encounter because I knew three very important rules about cats: 1. Never run from a lion. If you meet a lion, remain
times its body length, and it can take three strides a second.
absolutely still. Even if it goes into a serious charge, do
The average chase lasts 20 seconds, and covers 250 to 300
not flee. Running will guarantee that you will not survive
metres. A cheetah at full speed has all four feet off the ground
what could be the thrill
for more than half of the time. They knock down their prey by the back legs, then strangle it. They do not eat right away, for first they must recover from the chase. The massive expenditure of energy raises their body temperature to a potentially deadly 40ºC. Their respiration rate rises to 150/160 per minute – 10 times their normal rate. It
of a lifetime. 2. If you meet a cheetah, freeze. Cheetah are not usually dangerous to humans. If you stay still they will take a good long look at you, then take off in the opposite direction. 3. Leopards are so cunning and solitary that they are rarely
can take up to 20 minutes to cool down, before they can begin
encountered by walkers. If you have the good fortune to
their meal.
meet one, make no sudden moves or efforts to flee. In
The leopard’s approach to hunting is the complete opposite. Leopards have two hunting domains – land and water. As the most solitary cats, they only form pairs during the mating season, which means they spend the majority of their lives alone.
32 | asante | february – april 2011
nearly all cases, the leopard will flee first. A little knowledge about these wonderful animals can not only enhance your encounters with them – it can also save your life!
escapes their keen eye.
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Remaining long after the holiday has faded from memory, the ‘Beauty of’ series is an ideal souvenir. Bringing to glorious life the Kenyan communities and their wealth of cultures and customs is The Beautiful People of Kenya. Testimony to the grandeur of nature’s design is The Beauty of Amboseli which pays tribute to the snow-capped dome of Africa’s highest mountain – Kilimanjaro. Brilliantly explored in The Beauty of Ngorongoro is the timeless wonder of Ngorongoro, formed aeons ago and its attendant wildlife and culture. Everything you need to know about the beautiful animals of Kenya – their feeding habits and where to find them – is captured in The Beautiful Animals of Kenya. Both The Beauty of Historic Ethiopia and The Beauty of Addis Ababa celebrate Ethiopia as truly a land of discovery – brilliant, beautiful, secretive, mysterious, diverse and extraordinary. Rich with outstanding full-colour photographs and accompanying informative text the ‘Beauty of’ series captures the unique and diverse beauty of countries; proving an invaluable companion on your travels.
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february – april 2011 | asante | 33
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SEEING RED
Just about every culture in the world celebrates New Year, but none more heartily than the Chinese. As Brian Johnston explains, their New Year arrives with a bang!
whole affair is referred to as Spring Festival: a time of symbolic goodbyes and greetings, odd omens and legend, celebration and good fun. It’s all about making a fresh start, ushering out the old Photos © Brian Johnston
and welcoming in the new, accompanied by as much good luck as you can accumulate. Imbued with superstition and old beliefs, many of the observances of Chinese New Year have actually fallen out of favour in Mainland China. Although they’re now undergoing something of a renaissance, most mainland Chinese celebrate a very secularised New Year, with the emphasis mainly on family get-togethers, eating and holidays, since most Chinese get a
F
orget a mere evening of fun: how about 15 days? Forget the little poppers of December 31 that people call fireworks: the Chinese light up the entire night sky with a dazzling display, and throw in laser beams, illuminated skyscrapers and
two-week break for the occasion. You have to head elsewhere to enjoy Chinese New Year to the fullest. Hong Kong goes all-out and has undoubtedly the best fireworks display, with the harbour and laser-lit skyscrapers
thousands of firecrackers as well. And don’t even blink at the idle superstitions of other
as backdrop. Taiwanese families also still observe many
New Years; the Chinese have knives, noodles, plum blossoms, red envelopes, dragons,
traditional practices. In Taipei, four huge New Year’s markets
gods, goddesses, ghosts and evil spirits to worry about.
are particularly renowned, combining street market with cultural
If you’re going to celebrate New Year, do it loud and long. Celebrations continue over
activities in a wonderfully festive atmosphere. The holiday ends
15 days between late January and mid-February. Far from having run out of steam, the
with a Lantern Festival marked by a giant parade of floats
final day is the Lantern Festival and a good excuse for another round of partying. The
decorated with lanterns and displaying mechanised heroes from
34 | asante | february – april 2011
feature
Above: A street parade in Hong Kong for New Year. Above right: Participants
Red is the colour of choice for decorations, since it’s associated with good luck and happiness. Chinese legend. Dragon and lion dances are performed, and the
Increasingly, Chinese New Year is also becoming a major
God of Happiness eventually makes an appearance and prays for
event in Western cities with large immigrant populations, even if
prosperity and happiness for all in the coming year.
many of these are shortened occasions; few overseas Chinese
In Singapore, the God of Prosperity presides; the gigantic and
get two weeks off for Spring Festival. Numerous American cities
in the New
much-loved figure sprinkles gold dust over the crowds, bringing
such as Los Angeles, New York and Chicago have parades and
Year’s parade
fortune for the year ahead. Fireworks and a showcase of Chinese
observances of the Lantern Festival, beauty pageants, dragon
in Paris,
food and culture follow. Singapore’s Chinatown is full of bustle as
dances and fireworks. No firecracker ban here, so Chinese New
wearing
local shops gear up for the festive season, which culminates in the
Year is a very noisy affair. The parade in San Francisco takes place
traditional
Chingay Parade: 3,000 participants on floats or performing in the
at night and is illuminated; the city hosts the largest Chinese New
street. With a typically modern Singaporean twist, rock bands also
Year’s celebration outside Asia and includes the crowning of Miss
participate, and laser beams pierce the sky. As firecrackers are
Chinatown United States of America.
dress. Opposite: Lucky red dragons, another symbol of the New Year.
banned in Singapore, people relay the sounds of exploding
In London, there’s a parade of children and Chinese lions,
firecrackers through their stereo sets. Lots of noise frightens away
as well as stage performances, market stalls and fireworks in
the evil spirits and ghosts which often become restless at the
Leicester Square. Sydney has a full three-week programme of
turning of the year: this is why Chinese New Year everywhere is so
events centred on its Chinatown and involving food markets,
loud with vigorous lion and dragon dances, clashing cymbals,
dragon boat races on the harbour and a parade that shuts down
booming drums and staccato bursts of firecrackers and fireworks.
the main thoroughfare in the city centre.
>>
february – april 2011 | asante | 35
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>> permeate Spring Festival and is still observed, to a greater or lesser degree, by many Chinese. Avoid bad language, unlucky words such as ‘death’, and don’t speak of the past year. Don’t use knives and scissors on the first day of New Year, since that
>>
A major feature of Chinese New Year everywhere is
will ‘cut’ your good luck. Try not to fall or stumble for the same
theemphasis on fine and abundant food. Plenty of everything
reason. And don’t cry, since it’s foretold that you’ll keep crying
now,the idea goes, will mean plenty of everything to come, and
all year. (Worrisome enough to get many children off their
whatever comes to you on New Year’s Day will set the style for
punishments for the day!) The second day of New Year is said to
the rest of the year. The Chinese make merry over the dining
be the birthday of all dogs: be especially nice to your furry friends.
table throughout the 15 days, the most important moment being
Chinese New Year is shared by the Vietnamese (where it’s
a gargantuan family feast on New Year’s Eve. (Only on the 13th
called Tet) and by the Koreans (Je-Sok). Deeply influenced by
day of New Year does austerity creep in: simple rice congee and
Chinese culture, both Tet and Je-Sok are similar to the Chinese
greens are supposed to cleanse the system after the excesses of
tradition, with local variations. In Vietnam, for example, the
the preceding two weeks.) Much of the food served has various
yellow blossom of the hoa mai flower is favoured for decoration.
symbolic associations: oysters for success in business, black
Families also ‘plant’ a tree or branch in front of their homes from
seaweed and dried beancurd for wealth, abalone for abundance.
whichall the leaves have been removed; the tree is then wrapped
Long noodles for a long life are also widely eaten.
ordecorated with red paper. It remains there until the last day
Chinese homes are decorated with tangerines – symbolic
of New Year. At midnight on New Year’s Eve people head to the
of enduring friendship, so an ideal gift from visitors – and with
temples to pray, then to the parks to watch fireworks and dragon
‘trays of togetherness’ containing peanuts (longevity), candied
dances. In Hanoi, boys and girls gather outside the cultural
melon (good health) and other snacks for good fortune. Flowers
centre dressed as kings and queens and perform as live pieces in
and plants such as water lilies, narcissus and sprigs of pine
a giant chess game, bringing a touch of intellectual effort to the
andbamboo are also traditionally associated with Chinese New
festivities.
Year, making flower markets in Chinese cities at this time a sight to behold. Red is the colour of choice for decorations, since it’s
In Korea, families sit up all night on New Year’s Eve with lit torches, and in their bare feet, in order to defend the coming year against evil spirits. Footwear is hidden away, since ghosts
associated with good luck and happiness. Buildings and doorsare
are supposed to enter the house and take away the best pair of
pasted with strips of red paper inked with prayers for the
shoes – should they be able to find them. It’s also said that, if you
coming year or elegant couplets celebrating spring, and giantred
fall asleep on the night, your eyebrows will turn grey. Chestnuts
Chinese characters for ‘spring’ and ‘luck’ profilerate. Money in
and pine nuts are the traditional snack, and rice wine is drunk
red envelopes is handed out to children and unmarried friends,
chilled, whereas it’s generally enjoyed warmed at other times.
with the token amounts of money being less important than the
In Seoul, the striking of the giant Chonggak bell, the biggest and
red envelope itself. There’s another very good reason for all this
best-known bell in all Korea, is a significant moment. Vast crowds
red: it’s said that the legendary monster known as Nian (or ‘year’)
gather at midnight to hear it toll, an event that is also broadcast
which comes out of the mountains and preys on people is not only
on television. On New Year’s Day, Koreans wear traditional
afraid of loud noises, but the colour red as well.
costume and formally greet their parents and grandparents.
Embrace red, avoid white – that would be the traditional colour of mourning. A whole host of other superstitions and beliefs
36 | asante | february – april 2011
Farmers perform dances in the fields, accompanied by gongs and drums. Happy New Year indeed!
Above: The Hong Kong skyline erupts in laser displays for Chinese New Year.
feature
Exquisiteness of the
BlueGems The new blue gemstones are making headlines, reports Kate Nivison. Photos courtesy of The Onyx Jewellers.
R
ock hounds are a
of the mineral zoisite with decidedly ‘chameleon’ tendencies.
dedicated and
When subjected to heat of around 600ºC it was capable of
secretive bunch.
Some are highly trained
undergoing a dramatic and permanent change from its usual dull brown to a beautiful translucent shade of blue/violet. Its
geologists, while others
crystal orientation was such that some specimens might show
have simply acquired an
variations from sky blue, through to deep-sea sapphire and even
experienced eye for something
burgundy within their basic ‘blueness’. Others could manage
new, interesting or potentially
hints of pale lavender, violet, deep purple and emerald. D’Souza
valuable. Sometimes what they
realised he was on to something rather special and potentially
find turns out to be far more
valuable, and he was right. In January 1969, the legendary
interesting than what they were
Tiffany & Company of New York declared his find “the most
actually looking for, and maybe
exciting gemmological event of the century”, and named the new
it’s this element of surprise that
gemstone tanzanite.
keeps them tapping away with
Apparently all you needed to become very rich indeed was
their hammers in some of the
lots of the right kind of zoisite and a very hot oven. But nothing
most remote regions of the world.
in the gem world is that simple. The raw material proved to be
What happened to Manuel D’Souza,
extremely elusive. Intensive rock hounding round the world since
a tailor from Arusha, Tanzania, is a
the discovery has revealed only tiny amounts elsewhere, mainly
case in point.
in Scandinavia, South Africa and Kenya. The only site worth
Tanzanite
square kilometres of the Merelani Hills, to the south of Kilimanjaro
exploiting commercially turned out to be the original one – a few Originally from Goa, D’Souza was
International Airport, and within sight of the snow-capped Mother
also a keen rock hound. One day in
Mountain herself.
July 1967 he was out prospecting
The good news was that this made tanzanite rarer than
for rubies on the plains around Mount
diamonds. The bad was that poor Manuel D’Souza soon found his
Kilimanjaro when a Maasai herdsman
original claims swamped by an army of freelance diggers. It did
showed him some gleaming blue/
not make his fortune – in fact he estimated that over 80 per cent
violet stones. At first glance, D’Souza
of the gems from his own claims left the country before he had
thought they could be sapphires, but his
even set eyes on them. A story in The Wall Street Journal that
initial disappointment that the samples
cash from smuggled tanzanite was funding terrorist groups proved
proved too soft to be in the valuable
exaggerated, but the gem-cutting and jewellery industry of India’s
sapphire family was short-lived. These
Golden Triangle, headed by the city of Jaipur, has certainly been
stones revealed a rare quality known
a beneficiary. Here they say that anyone driving a new Mercedes
in the gem trade as polychroism – the
must have just received a big order involving tanzanite.
ability to show several colours, depending
One big boost for tanzanite came with the hugely
on the angle from which they are viewed,
successful Hollywood film Titanic, where actress Kate
and they were clearly very attractive.
Winslet’s character wears a beautiful blue heart-
Maasai stories indicated that their
shaped gem in a pendant set with diamonds – a love
finding of such stones often coincided with
token from her fiancé. Modelled on the notorious
violent lightening strikes or intense bush
blue Hope Diamond (rumoured to have brought
fires. Following this useful lead, geologists
misfortune to all its owners), the pendant, named
realised that what D’Souza had brought in
‘Heart of the Ocean’, was actually a semi-precious
for testing was a previously unknown form
sapphire, and the whole concept was a neat touch
38 | asante | february – april 2011
feature
of pure fiction, put in for dramatic effect. It certainly worked. A clever merchandising tie-in with the film created a market for look-alike (smaller) pendants that is still going strong, but often using tanzanite rather than sapphire. The State Mining Corporation of Tanzania has now been able to get back enough control to ensure that more of the profits from this sparkling windfall stay within the country, and India has offered training for local people in cutting and setting the stones. Tanzanite One, the main company involved, raised production to over one million carats in the first six months of 2008, and intends to increase this. If you feel tempted to buy, it’s worth remembering that, as with other precious stones, size increases the chance of flaws, so it’s best to choose the most reliable dealer you can find. Large, clear specimens tend to show more depth of colour variation than
the world – beneath the forest-covered ridges of the Bahoruco
smaller pieces and are very expensive.
Range along the south-eastern coast of the Dominican Republic.
Tanzanite is also softer and more brittle than sapphire and
Miguel Mendez called his ‘rediscovery’ Larimar, using a
diamond. It needs special care, and don’t believe anyone who
combination of his daughter Larissa’s name and ‘mar’, the
tells you otherwise. Sudden changes of temperature could
Spanish for sea, not only because of its colour, but because local
cause it to shatter, as could the sonic cleaning process used by
people believed it had come from the sea. Others pointed out
jewellers on harder gems. It should be stored in the dark since
that Father Loren had noted it first, so both larimar and lorima
permanent exposure to light will eventually weaken its colours.
are accepted.
Some say it looks best set in silver, platinum or white gold, and
Larimar is classed as semi-precious rather than precious.
with the right outfit the effect can be quite stunning. Moreover,
The most prized specimens are a ‘volcanic’ deep blue, and
there is now a real prospect of the supply running out, which
will sometimes warrant a gold setting. Paler ‘sea’ blues are
should only increase its value.
also popular, but are more often set in silver. Like tanzanite, it registers as fairly soft on the mineralogist’s scale of hardness,
Lorimar or Larimar?
and will fade when exposed to light for long periods. Unlike
Meanwhile on the other side of the world, in the Dominican
tanzanite it is opaque, so highly skilled facetted cutting is not
Republic, another rare blue stone was waiting in the wings. In
required, and a piece is finished by polishing. It is also subject
1916, Miguel Loren, a Catholic priest who was also a keen
to occasional price fluctuation according to which colours are
naturalist and rock hound, requested permission from his bishop
fashionable, but as with tanzanite, its rarity value gives it a solid
to mine an attractive, opaque sea-blue (as in shallow waters of the
profile in the gem industry.
Caribbean) stone that he’d found in the mountains. His request
Mendez got little else for his powers of observation except the
was ignored. It wasn’t until 1974 when a glint of blue on a beach
privilege of naming it, but hundreds of his compatriots are now
below the mountains attracted the attention of Miguel Mendez,
engaged in mining, working and selling larimar, and it has been
a local craftsman, that the Dominican Republic realised it had a
declared the national stone of the Dominican Republic. Some
gemmological hit on its hands.
of the larger chunks, when cut across and polished, are valued
Many precious and semi-precious stones are the results of freak local conditions associated with volcanic activity, and this one was no exception. In this case, the area affected was basically limestone
as souvenirs because they show a strong resemblance to the dappling of sunlight and fluffy white clouds across a beautiful tropical sea. All of which goes to show that you don’t have to be a trained geologist to make exciting finds of previously unknown minerals that could be valuable, or indeed to discover new sources of
and it was found
some old favourites. A small hammer and a keen eye could be
that blue cobalt
all that is required, while simply beach combing, talking to local
had seeped in to
people or the constructive kicking of boots through river sands
replace the calcium in some of the tiny natural cavities typical of this very common rock. For geologists, the interesting part was that this seems to have happened only in one place in
and gravel beds has founded a surprising number of multi-million dollars industries, especially in Africa. Existing sources of many gemstones are running out fast, and the next ‘new blue’ – or red, or green, or pink – could be just under your feet. Note – You can sometimes see the tanzanite mines from the air, about 16 kilometres south of Kilimanjaro International Airport.
february – april 2011 | asante | 39
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WORK-LIFE BALANCE how to get yours back! by Graham Yemm.
rk o W
W
Life
Having said this, the reality is that the problem
e hear and read a lot about the need
of a lack of work-life balance is self-inflicted. You
for people to achieve a work-life balance. In this world of seemingly increasing pressure and
have allowed it to happen! The other challenging factor is that
workplace demands, is it really feasible to seek this balance?
the solution lies within you. You need to start by accepting
Does it matter? The short answer is yes, to both.
more responsibility for how you use, or abuse, your own time.
When you don’t have this balance it leads to even more
You need to acknowledge that the underlying problems arise
pressure building. You may be getting it from home and your
because you are allowing others to take more control of your
life outside because you are not devoting time to that, or
time!
possibly from work as you struggle to cope with the demands
To change your life and begin moving towards getting the
there whilst keeping ‘life’ going. As these pressures mount and
right work-life balance for you, begin by thinking about what
the imbalance becomes worse, there is a probability of stress
it should be. One of the problems many people face is that
occurring. Organisations are more aware of the costs of stress
they do not know what their ideal work-life balance would be
related issues these days – local government included. Not
like! (They often know they don’t want what they have.) To get
achieving balance can begin to affect you as an individual, your
an idea of what you want, spend some time doodling your
team or colleagues, your family and friends, so it matters!
thoughts. Write them down, mindmap them or even draw an
For most people, the lack of desired work-life balance is a
image of what you want. As with many other activities, it can
result of things creeping up on them rather than a specific
help you mobilise yourself into action if you have a really clear
event causing it. The trouble is they do not take action on these
and compelling idea of what the end result will be. Be specific
small issues and changes as they happen, and before long
about what you want for you, personally, and for time with family
these are the habit. This is often combined with events around
and friends – and for work.
them at work and the culture which has evolved around use of time and expectations from staff. 40 | asante | february – april 2011
Now you know what you want, think about what needs to be different to achieve this. Identify what is happening with
feature
if you continue to do what you have always done, you will always get what you have always got. your time, and your life, currently. You can start with some
them alone. Go back and look at them, decide what else you
generalised thinking, but this may lead to your overlooking some
might want to add and then prioritise them. This can be a
vital events or people. It can be useful to back-up your thinking
great exercise to do with a partner or significant other! When
by completing a time-log to make a note of exactly what you are
prioritised, evaluate how well you think these are being met
doing, who and what interrupts you and how long these things
with your current work-life balance. Where there is a gap,
are taking. Assess the activities against the key tasks of your
there will be a greater probability of pressure and stress being
job – and ask yourself which of these could or should be done by
generated. If these really matter to you, you will take steps to
someone else.
start to make sure that your life is being lived to achieve them.
The next step is to do a form of ‘gap analysis’. You can be specific about what needs to change in order to begin to achieve the desired balance which you created earlier. Before
This is why I said earlier, the solutions to getting your work-life balance lie with you! The next stage is to do an action plan to tackle the areas
setting plans in place to address these areas, you can help
in your gap analysis. Check back on your time logs and notice
yourself with a bit more self-assessment.
what is stealing your time from what would be your priorities
Over a number of years of working with groups and individuals
in your balanced life. Be open to change – remember, ‘if you
in all aspects of time management and stress management, I
continue to do what you have always done, you will always get
have come to a conclusion that we make choices about what
what you have always got.’ Some basic things to do:
we do with our time. We do not think of it in those terms
• Decide what you need to reduce or cut back at work.
because those choices operate at such a deep-rooted level that
• Learn to say ‘no’ more often, be OK about being unavailable
we make them unconsciously. When we work late, even if asked by the boss, we are choosing to do that rather than go home to our family. These choices are based on our values and beliefs. Our values are the things which are important to us and they have evolved over the years. Beliefs, in this context, are things we ‘hold to be true’. They take two forms, empowering and limiting. Put simply, the empowering ones are our ‘can do…’ or ‘it’s OK to…’ thoughts, whereas the limiting ones are the
to others in order to get on with your own work. This includes the telephone! • Accept that you need to take breaks and have a life in order to be more productive. • Organise your time with basic time management techniques, ‘to do lists’, time planners etc. • Plan to do things for yourself and with your family and friends – and stick to those plans.
‘must…’, ‘mustn’t…’, ‘can’t do…’ or ‘it’s not OK to…’ thoughts
• Schedule to leave work at a certain time – and stick to it.
we have. This combination of values and beliefs dictate what
• Avoid taking work home and doing it in evenings or
we choose to do with our time. Taking the example above, you probably have values around security, career and ambition,
weekends, only allowing yourself very rare exceptions. If your work-life balance is not what you want it to be,
which rate higher than values about family, relationships or self.
recognise that one of the reasons for this is you have allowed
You might have some limiting beliefs which say, ‘I must do what
others to take control of your time (and life!). To achieve the
my manager (or other authority figures) asks.’
balance you want, which leads to a happier life, less pressure
If you decide that achieving a better work-life balance is
and greater contentment, you need to put yourself back in
important, you need to start by examining your values and
control. To do this, be willing to change, take responsibility
beliefs. Firstly, identify what are your values (not something
for your own actions and reactions and use the appropriate
many people do or have done!). List them and then leave
behaviours to get the work-life balance you want.
Nairobi - Kenya
health
Exercise Could Help Women on Bed Rest bed rest stay strong and recuperate more quickly,
S
NASA for more than a decade to examine the impact spaceflight
according to a NASA-funded study by researchers at Ball
has on humans, according to Scott Trappe, the lab’s director. He
State University, Muncie, Indiana, United States Of America.
co-authored the study with fellow lab researcher Todd Trappe, his
The findings of the first comprehensive bed rest study focusing
brother.
hort but intense sessions of exercise may help women on
exclusively on women will help NASA (National Aeronautics and
Ball State’s Human Performance Lab has been working with
“Until we completed this study, we had no solid research on
Space Administration) develop more effective countermeasures
how women would adapt to long durations in space,” Trappe said.
to mitigate strength and muscle loss in female astronauts on
“This information should have a dramatic impact for NASA in the
long-duration missions to the International Space Station and,
coming years.”
perhaps, someday to Mars. It also may have implications for women on Earth confined to bed rest because of illness, injury or pregnancy. “With NASA astronaut Peggy Whitson commanding the International Space Station now and astronaut Pam Melroy commanding the last space shuttle mission, we’re reminded daily
Conducted in Toulouse, France, the study was sponsored jointly by the European Space Agency, the Canadian Space Agency, the French space agency CNES (Centre National d’Etudes Spatiales), and NASA. Results were published recently in the Journal of Applied Physiology and Acta Physiologica. The study examined 24 female participants to determine
that women make up an important segment of our astronaut
whether specific exercise regimens or nutritional supplements
corps and are taking on more and more leadership roles,” said
could prevent the loss of lower body muscle mass and strength.
Carl Walz, a former long-duration astronaut and head of NASA’s
The women spent 60 days on bed rest. They lay with their heads
advanced capabilities division in the agency’s Exploration Systems
pointing downward at a 6-degree angle, which researchers
Mission Directorate, Washington. “It’s important that we look at
believe most accurately simulates the weightless conditions of
how space travel – microgravity, radiation, and other factors –
space. One group was put on an exercise regimen. A second
affects women and men differently.”
group was put on a high-protein diet rich with leucine, an
42 | asante | february – april 2011
Above: Exercise at sunrise – a positive step towards health.
health
The message for women and their doctors is that it really took very little exercise to make an impact. or dietary protocols. “When we looked at these women after two months, the
Using a magnetic resonance imaging device, or MRI, researchers measured muscle mass in all of the study subjects after the 60-day period. They found that women in the control
difference in the physical condition among the three groups was
group lost 21 per cent of the muscle mass in their quadriceps,
undeniable, ” Trappe said. “The women who did not exercise lost
and the nutrition group lost more than 24 per cent, but the
nearly half their strength in some cases. What’s more, the group
exercise group lost none. Results were similar for MRI scans of
who ate a high-protein diet but did not exercise lost even more
the calf muscle.
muscle mass than the control group.” The exercise regimen included a 40 to 50 minute aerobic
The loss of muscle strength was even more significant. Researchers tested strength using the flywheel device. Women
workout two or three times a week and 20-minute strength
who did not exercise during the study lost as much as 33 per
training sessions two or three days a week. While lying on their
cent of their strength in squat exercises and 46 per cent in calf
backs, the women did multiple sets of thigh and calf exercises
press exercises. But the women who exercised maintained their
using a flywheel device similar to a typical leg press machine at a
strength.
gym. They also worked out on a vertical treadmill. “The message for women and their doctors is that it really took
NASA’s Human Research Programme is working to understand the health effects of spaceflight on astronauts
very little exercise to make an impact,” said Trappe. “The total
in preparation for long-duration missions. “It could take six
time spent exercising was less than two per cent of the time they
months to reach the surface of Mars, and we have to make
spent in bed during the entire 60-day period. In the end, a little bit
sure our astronauts are healthy when they get there,
of intense exercise goes a long way.”
” Walz said.
february – april 2011 | asante | 43
For more on NASA’s space exploration plans, www.nasa.gov/exploration
amino acid. The control group did not take part in any exercise
health
What Probiotics Can Do For You by Shaheen Perveen.
O
ne of the world’s earliest processed
The body maintains a balance between beneficial and harmful
foods – the yoghurt – has long been
bacteria in the intestine. It is a symbiotic relationship that relies
popular in the alternative health
on balance and when this is disrupted by factors like illness,
community. It is only in the recent past
aging, medication, it can give bad bugs the edge.
that compelling scientific evidence has persuaded doctors to give these ‘living drugs’ a second look. Isn’t it fun to find 25 billion good bacteria thriving in
Probiotics in the shape of supplements (capsules, tablets, powders and drinks) or food (like yoghurt, acidophilus milk, etc) tend to restore the balance by replenishing beneficial bacteria. These ‘good’ bugs use up some of the food and other resources that symptom causing bacteria need in order to thrive. Besides rectifying the imbalances, yoghurt (particularly cow’s milk yoghurt) is packed with calcium, protein, and vitamin D and also assists in the production of vitamins K and the B group of vitamins. The neutral and friendly bacteria further help in
a single
food digestion, stimulating the immune system and preventing
capsule or
carcinogens from forming.
250,000
Probiotics are believed to reduce diarrhoea, particularly when
million
antibiotics have swept away the bad as well as good bacteria.
probiotic
Probiotics have also been claimed to lower the blood pressure
bacteria being consumed per serving of yoghurt? Yes, it is all about the teeming bacteria. Life on earth would be impossible without these tiny chemical
and cholesterol. According to the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, a newly characterised strain of probiotic bacteria may have potential to kill Listeria monocytogenes, an often lethal pathogen in pregnant women. According to the journal BMC Microbiology, supplements of Lactobacillus rhamnosus GG probiotic bacteria may provide
wizards. Nothing would biodegrade,
added protection against gastro-intestinal infection and
there would be no nitrogen and in
diarrhoea in infants.
fact countless chemical reactions
If you are lactose (natural milk sugar) intolerant, consider
would come to a grinding halt.
yoghurt, because the live bacteria will have consumed some
There would be no butter, cheese,
of the lactose. Another option is to consider non-milk
yoghurt or even wine !
soy-based yoghurt.
Probiotics are defined as ‘a live microbial food ingredient that is beneficial to health.’ The word ‘biotic’ refers to life and alludes to the components of complex living systems. But it’s
At the same time, probiotics create healthful pH levels in the gut and produce germ fighting compounds. Availability: Probiotics can be found either in food sources or supplements sold in health food stores as well as most pharmacies. Only a few bacterial strains have been
not just any life to which this term specifically refers – it’s
thoroughly studied and the optimal doses haven’t been
gastro-intestinal life.
determined. Studies on diarrhoea and other conditions
How it works: Trillions of bacteria (referred to as microflora), weighing no less than around one kilogramme (three pounds), dwell in our intestine. Some of them are trouble makers, some
suggest that most people need a daily dose of at least 10 billion organisms. Good quality yoghurts contain more varieties of
are neutral, while most are friendly and they help to keep the bad
bacteria. More is better because different bacteria
ones at bay (meaning less bloating and gas).
do different jobs.
44 | asante | february – april 2011
health
Caution:
Baked Yoghurt Chicken Recipe
1. Yoghurts that are heat treated after fermentation do not contain live bacteria. 2. Premature infants should not be given probiotics. 3. Calcium in dairy foods can interfere with the absorption of certain antibiotics. Seek medical clarification before proceeding with probiotics. 4. Some of the yoghurts are full of sugar. Keep away from them and prefer plain yoghurt where you can add fruits and natural sweeteners (maple syrup). 5. There are no regulations to ascertain the number of organisms mentioned on the label. Some commercial probiotics have been tested to contain bacteria not mentioned on the label while some contained no living
Ingredients
bacteria at all.
• 1 cut up frying chicken (2.5 to 3 pounds).
6. Effectiveness and safety of probiotics for different medical conditions have not yet been clearly established.
• Salt and pepper. • 6 tablespoons butter or margarine. • 2 tablespoons flour.
Add yoghurt to your meals: Everyone may not like the
• 1 tablespoon paprika.
simple, plain yoghurt. Consider the following options to
• 2 cups plain yoghurt.
make it more appealing: 1. Prepare a smoothie by blending yoghurt with fresh fruits and soy milk.
• 1/4 pound fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced.
2. Consider adding garlic or other herbs to make a dip.
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice.
3. Replace the use of cream by yoghurt wherever
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or parsley.
posible.
Method 1. Wash chicken pieces and wipe dry. Add salt and pepper. In a large pan, melt 4 tablespoons of butter. Fry chicken until golden brown. Remove to buttered shallow baking dish. 2. Sprinkle flour and paprika into pan juices and cook, stirring for 1 minute. 3. Stir in yoghurt and mix well.Spoon over chicken. 4. Sautée mushrooms in remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and lemon juice for 1 minute and spoon over pan. 5. Sprinkle with the dill. Bake, covered, in preheated 164 C oven for about 75 minutes, or until chicken is tender. 0
february – april 2011 | asante | 45
asante news
OFFICIAL OPENING OF THE NEW CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS IN KAMPALA
YOUR FEEDBACK Dear Sir, On August 15th I was travelling from Rwanda to Uganda via Air Uganda with a group of 10 people. Unfortunately, our flight was delayed. We were very anxious because we were planning on transferring to Kajjansi Airfield in order to travel to Murchison Falls for a few days of rest and relaxation. We had been working in Rwanda for eight days volunteering – we were helping to construct a building for a poor women’s cooperative. Our plan
Left to right: Mr. Patrick Bitature, Chairman of the Uganda Investment Authority
was to take a few days off and then travel back
cuts the ribbon to officially open the new corporate headquaters, Mr. Mahmood Manji,
to Kampala to volunteer at a Baby Orphanage
the Chairman of the Board, Air Uganda and Mr. Jan Mohammed, the Head of AKDN (Aga Khan Development Network) Uganda with Air Uganda staff.
On 18 January 2011, Air Uganda officially opened its new corporate headquarters located at Investment House, Kololo. The Opening was presided over by the Chairman of the Uganda Investment Authority, Mr. Patrick Bitature; the Chairman of the Board, Air Uganda, Mr. Mahmood Manji and the Head of AKDN Uganda, Mr. Jan Mohammed. The new headquarters incorporates a sales office to enable customers to have greater access to both airline tickets and holiday packages as well as the convenience of another sales outlet. It provides easy car parking reserved for Air Uganda clients.
and a home for rescued street boys. Our flight departing Kigali was extremely late and our charter carrier said that they could not take us to Murchison Falls. When we arrived at Entebbe our plan was to rent a van and drive the group up that evening. As we came through Customs we were met by Johan du Toit. He first apologised that our flight was late and asked us about our plan. I was not expecting to be met by the Station Manager. When he heard that our
SEASONAL FLIGHTS FROM ENTEBBE TO ZANZIBAR AND MOMBASA
plan was to drive at night he immediately implored us not to do so – he said it was not safe. He offered to put us up in a hotel and do
Air Uganda now has seasonal flights from Entebbe to Mombasa and Zanzibar.
his best to contact a charter air company that
We also offer great holiday packages to both Mombasa and Zanzibar. Please visit our
would fly us to Murchison Falls. I can’t tell you
website www.air-uganda.com/holidays to book these packages or email us at
how much this impressed our whole group.
packages@air-uganda.com. Whichever holiday package you choose, you will experience the bliss of a pre-planned luxury getaway. Give yourself the blessing of luxury.
FLIGHT SCHEDULE FROM ENTEBBE TO MOMBASA AND ZANZIBAR
Within an hour we were checked in at the local hotel and Mr. du Toit had found a charter air company that would take our group first thing the following morning.
01 Jan-30 April 2011 – Flights twice weekly on Thursday and Sunday. 01 May-30 June 2011 – No flights during this season.
I travel to Uganda, Rwanda or Kenya at least
01 July-30 Aug 2011 – Flights twice weekly on Thursday and Sunday.
once a year and I can tell you that I am now a big
01 Sept-30 Nov 2011 – No flights during this season.
fan of Air Uganda as a result of the kindness and
01 Dec-11 Jan 2012 – Flights twice weekly on Thursday and Sunday.
great customer service offered by Johan du Toit.
SPECIAL CHILDREN’S OFFER
management team. He understands what it
Air Uganda has introduced a special ‘Children’s Offer’ for only USD 60 return (taxes exclusive). One adult can fly with up to three children from the ages of 2-15. This offer is applicable on our routes to Nairobi, Mombasa, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar and the offer is valid for travel until 17 April 2011. For more information on this offer, please contact Air Uganda at any of our sales and ticketing offices in Uganda, Kenya or Tanzania, or your travel agency. Better still, visit our website at www.air-uganda.com.
46 | asante | february – april 2011
You are lucky to have this man on your takes to stand out from the crowd. I look forward to my next flight on Air Uganda! Sincerely, Nick Foster Toronto, Canada _______________________________________________
AIR UGANDA FLIGHT SCHEDULE FLIGHT NUMBER U7 202 U7 206 U7 202 U7 206 U7 204 U7 204 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 203 U7 207 U7 203 U7 207 U7 205 U7 205 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 120 U7 120 U7 120 U7 120 U7 120 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 119 U7 119 U7 119 U7 119 U7 119 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 340 U7 340 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 341 U7 341 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 320 U7 320 U7 320 U7 320 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 321 U7 321 U7 321 U7 321 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 340 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 341 U7 341 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 350 U7 350 U7 350 U7 352 U7 352 FLIGHT NUMBER U7 351 U7 351 U7 351 U7 353 U7 353
ENTEBBE – NAIROBI ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 07:40 Hrs Mon-Fri 15:35 Hrs Mon-Fri 09:40 Hrs Sat 13:25 Hrs Sun 17:50 Hrs Sat 19:50 Hrs Mon-Fri & Sun NAIROBI – ENTEBBE DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 08:15 Hrs 09:25 Hrs Mon-Fri 16:15 Hrs 17:20 Hrs Mon-Fri 10:15 Hrs 11:25 Hrs Sat 13:55 Hrs 15:00 Hrs Sun 18:20 Hrs 19:25 Hrs Sat 20:30 Hrs 21:30 Hrs Mon-Fri & Sun ENTEBBE – JUBA DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 10:15 Hrs 11:15 Hrs Mon-Thur 10:15 Hrs 11:15 Hrs Tue & Wed 14:45 Hrs 15:45 Hrs Fri 12:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs Sat 15:15 Hrs 16:15 Hrs Sun JUBA – ENTEBBE DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 12:00 Hrs 13:00 Hrs Mon 12:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs Tue-Thur 16:45 Hrs 17:45 Hrs Fri 13:55 Hrs 14:55 Hrs Sat 17:00 Hrs 18:00 Hrs Sun ENTEBBE – ZANZIBAR DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 09:00 Hrs 11:40 Hrs Thur 09:00 Hrs 11:35 Hrs Sun ZANZIBAR – ENTEBBE DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 12:10 Hrs 13:50 Hrs Thur 12:05 Hrs 14:50 Hrs Sun ENTEBBE – DAR ES SALAAM DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 13:00 Hrs 14:45 Hrs Mon 14:45 Hrs 16:30 Hrs Tue-Thur 11:30 Hrs 13:15 Hrs Fri 15:30 Hrs 17:15 Hrs Sun DAR ES SALAAM – ENTEBBE DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 15:20 Hrs 17:05 Hrs Mon 17:05 Hrs 18:50 Hrs Tue-Thur 13:55 Hrs 15:40 Hrs Fri 17:50 Hrs 19:35 Hrs Sun ENTEBBE – MOMBASA DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 09:00 Hrs 10:40 Hrs Thur & Sun MOMBASA – ENTEBBE DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 11:10 Hrs 13:50 Hrs Thur 13:10 Hrs 14:50 Hrs Sun ENTEBBE – KIGALI DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 09:30 Hrs 09:15 Hrs Mon 12:00 Hrs 11:45 Hrs Tue-Wed 09:55 Hrs 09:40 Hrs Thur 16:15 Hrs 16:00 Hrs Fri 16:00 Hrs 15:45 Hrs Sun KIGALI – ENTEBBE DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY 10:00 Hrs 11:45 Hrs Mon 12:15 Hrs 14:00 Hrs Tue-Wed 10:15 Hrs 12:00 Hrs Thur 16:30 Hrs 18:15 Hrs Fri 16:15 Hrs 18:00 Hrs Sun For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on 041 2 165555 in KAMPALA . DEPARTURE TIME 06:30 Hrs 14:30 Hrs 08:30 Hrs 12:20 Hrs 16:45 Hrs 18:45 Hrs
Seasonal Flights to both Mombasa and Zanzibar: 01 Jan-30 April 2011 – Flights 2 times weekly Thursday and Sunday. | 01 May-30 June 2011 – No flights during this season. 01 July-30 Aug 2011 – Flights 2 times weekly on Thursday and Sunday. | 01 Sept-30 Nov 2011 – No flights during this season. 01 Dec-11 Jan 2012 – Flights 2 times weekly on Thursday and Sunday. february – april 2011 | asante | 47
HEALTHY TRAVELLING
These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise. Foot pumps: Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upward as high as you can. Then put both feet flat on the floor. Then lift heels high, keeping the balls of your feet
Other Tips for a Comfortable Flight
Knee lifts: Lift leg with knees bent while contracting your thigh muscles. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30
•
For your own comfort try and travel light.
•
Wear loose clothing and elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.
•
Increase your normal intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.
•
Use moisturising cream to keep your skin from drying out.
•
Take off shoes in the plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.
•
Avoid heavy meals during the flight.
•
Short walks once every two hours are excellent for circulation.
•
Try to touch your toes when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.
•
On arrival at your destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.
•
On arrival a quick jog, brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.
times for each leg.
on the floor. Continue cycle in 30-second intervals.
Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.
Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.
Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.
Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals. 48 | asante | february – april 2011
Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.
Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.
Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.
Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.
ROUTE MAP
Entebbe
Seasonal flights to both Mombasa and Zanzibar: See flight schedule on page 47.
february – april 2011 | asante | 49
AIR UGANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES
Kampala Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555 +256 (0) 312 165 555 Email: info@air-uganda.com Fax: +256 (0) 414 258 267 Jubilee Insurance Centre, 1st Floor, Podium Level, Plot 14 Parliment Avenue, Kampala, Uganda. P. O. Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.
Dar es Salaam Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 783 111 992 +255 (0) 222 133 322 Email: reservation@air-uganda.com Haidery Plaza, 1st Floor, Mkwepu Street, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. P.O. Box 22636, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.
Nairobi Sales Office: Tel: +254 (0) 20 313 933 Email: infoke@air-uganda.com 5th Floor, Jubilee Insurance Building, Wabera Street, Nairobi, Kenya.
Mombasa Sales Office: Tel: +254 (0) 20 313 933 +254 (0) 734 605 203 Email: vwamakau@air-uganda.com 1st Floor, TSS Towers, Nkrumah Road, Mombasa Kenya.
Zanzibar Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 242 233 506/7 +255 (0) 713 666 602 Email: info@air-uganda.com Office no. 23, Mlandege Street, Muzammil Center Building P.O. Box 22636, Zanzibar, Tanzania.
50 | asante | february – april 2011
Juba Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 477 153 912 Email: info@air-uganda.com Hai Suk Street, (Opp. the Mosque) Juba, Sudan. Kigali Sales Office: Tel: +250 (0) 252 577 926 +250 (0) 252 577 928 +250 (0) 788 380 926 +250 (0) 722 926 926 Email: info@air-uganda.com Office No. 26 UTC (Union Trade Centre) Building, Town Centre. Kigali, Rwanda. Head Office: Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4 +256 (0) 417 717 401 Fax: +256 414 500 932 Email: info@air-uganda.com Investment House, Plot 4, Wampewo Avenue, Kololo. P.O.Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda. Entebbe International Airport (Ticketing Office): Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 41771722 Email: reservations@air-uganda.com or info@air-uganda.com 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building, Entebbe, Uganda. PLEASE NOTE : After working hours on Weekdays (17:45 hrs - 21:00 hrs), Saturday (14:00 hrs - 21:00 hrs) and Sunday (07:30 hrs - 21:00 hrs) Please call our Entebbe ticketing office on Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222 for assistance.
TIPS FOR THE TRAVELLER IN UGANDA
Land Uganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain. Climate Although situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year. Topography It is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux. Economy Uganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers. Language English is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo. Electric supply All installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment. Time Uganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Time remains constant throughout the year. People The people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English. Excursions Uganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-theroad driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya. Hotels There are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels. Banking hours There is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 hours on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200 hours. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 hours on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 hours on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities. Communications Telephone, telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes. Medical services Uganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.
Currency Uganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates. Credit cards International credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops. Working hours Shops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 hours on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400 hours. Some businesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 hours and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items. Public Holidays 2011 1 January 26 January 8 March 22 April 25 April 1 May 3 June 9 June 30 August 9 October 6 November 25 December 26 December
New Year’s Day Liberation Day International Women’s Day Good Friday Easter Monday Labour Day Martyrs’ Day National Heroes’ Day Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan) Independence Day Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice) Christmas Day Boxing Day
Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate. Customs Besides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale. Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies. Health requirements Visitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking. Visa and immigration requirements Visa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted. Taxi services Taxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance. Car rental Several firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a drivertranslator is recommended). Entebbe International Airport The main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar. Security The same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Be careful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.
february – april 2011 | asante | 51
CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU Crossword Clues Across
1
2
5
4
3
6
1. Lost part of chain of interest to anthropologists. (7,4) 8. Two-sided and hypocritical. (6-5) 11. Rant about small mountain lake. (4) 12. Ruminant sounds expensive! (4) 13. French wine is part dance and endless bliss. (7)
7
10
9
8 12
11
15. No pines twisted for retirement benefit. (7) 16. 51 + 1,000 it is the end! (5) 17. Female 12. (4)
13
18. Turn new one over for a fresh start. (4) 19. It’s said to be lined with silver! (5) 21. Two French articles end up dry in cleaning establishment. (7)
16 17
18
26. Cane activity causes spots. (4)
20
19
22. Lesser vantage point has paid helper. (7) 23. Reverberation sounds like a headless gecko. (4)
15
14
22
21
27. Enable roast to turn and describe action against the state. (11) 28. To change country means constant resubstitution. (11)
Clues Down
24
23
25
26
27
2. Relic only contains religious image. (4) 3. Bus silo moves beneath the surface. (7) 4. Confederation of tribes in Sudan and western Ethiopia. (4)
28
5. Does this reading matter grow on a small tree? (7)
8. Old battleship has no fear. (11) 9. Reel IV turned in dance provides salvation. (11) 10. Relatively speaking, everybody has two of them. (11) 14. Willy changes direction in front – it’s daft! (5)
Answers across 1 Missing link | 8 Double-faced | 11 Tarn | 12 Deer | 13 Chablis | 15 Pension |16 Limit 17 Hind | 18 Leaf | 19 Cloud | 21 Laundry | 22 Servant | 23 Echo | 26 Acne 27 Treasonable | 28 Alternation
7. Cattle rancher in the financial market? (5-6)
Answers down 2 Icon | 3 Subsoil | 4 Nuer |5 Leaflet | 6 Need | 7 Stockholder | 8 Dreadnought 9 Deliverance | 10 Grandfather | 14 Silly | 15 Pious | 19 Cremate | 20 Defiant | 24 Oral 25 Soon | 26 Also
6. Want comes from disturbed Eden. (4)
15. Peter is only initially before us to be devout. (5)
Sudoku
19. Emu is curtailed inside the box to consume by fire. (7) 20. Fainted in confusion, but remaining disobedient. (7) 24. Spoken from hero rally driver. (4)
Place a number from
25. It will not be long for male off spring to hold ring. (4)
1 to 9 in every empty
26. And Alfred joins forces with half 25. (4)
cell so that each row, each column and each
3 2
4 6
3x3 box contains all the numbers from 1
8 5
to 9. No number can appear twice in a row,
9
column or 3x3 box. Do not guess – you
7
can work it out by a process of elimination.
52 | asante | february – april 2011
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5
9
9 5
2
3
8 3
8 4
6
2
1 8 4 3
6
2
1
4 3
8 9
issue
number
005
february–april
2011
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the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the asante issue number 005 february–april 2011
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