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Fauve This is the first edition of Fauve, an illustrated journal which I hope will inspire on all levels. Through photography, features, interviews (and a fair bit of collage) it explores the interaction – and interdependency – of fashion and the arts. For issue one, this idea led me to examine the emerging fashion film genre and dip into festival culture; to explore the world of Yves Saint Laurent at the major retrospective in Paris and to consider the intangible ‘creative process’ through conversations with multifaceted designer Barbara Hulanicki and this year’s Central Saint Martins MA Fashion graduates. I also pay tribute to the ultimate in cross-cultural endeavours, Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes, which in turn inspired me to investigate the underground art scene in St Petersburg today. Ever since I plagiarised Mizz in my fashioning of Fizz some 13 years ago, I have wanted to make a magazine that created a synthesis between good writing and beautiful imagery. And, although I no longer consider a problem page a requisite for a successful publication, nor do I deem Tammy Girl the dernier cri in style, that intent – and passion – is still there and distilled, I hope, in the following pages. So enjoy Fauve in whichever way you see fit: to read, to look at or to rip up and stick in a sketchbook. Imogen Eveson
Contents Film Fashion film 10 Kathryn Ferguson 18 Summer films 20 Festivals Latitude Festival 24 Glastonbury Fayre 30 Arts and music festivals 34 News Irving Penn Portraits 38 Fashionably Curious 42 Yves Saint Laurent 44 Eonnagata 48 Art and design exhibitions 52 Process Barbara Hulanicki 58 Fashion MA graduates 66 ErtÊ 78 Paris, Russia The Ballets Russes 82 An artist’s Paris 96 St Petersburg 100
Part one
Film I became interested in the emergence of the
Fashion film as a new genre, but one that is hard to define. I speak to a few of its pioneers including Sarah Chatfield and Jaime Perlman to explore its very fabric, and quizzed filmmaker
Kathryn Ferguson on her cinematic influences. Meanwhile, I seek out some of the more offbeat
Summer film releases
Top to bottom: Can Evgin, New Dawn Fades for Test; Sandra Freij, The Long Walk for Test; Kathryn Ferguson, Lady Gaga for Dazed Digital
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Top to bottom: Wendy Bevan, Reaching for the Moon; Sarah Chatfield, Louise Gray A/W 2010; Toyin, Something Sleeps Inside Us; Mel Bles, Craig Lawrence A/W 2010
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Part two
Festivals When it was launched five years ago,
Latitude Festival was distinct from others, bringing together art from all corners of the cultural remit. I speak to the curator behind the idea, Tania Harrison, on how she organises such a spectacle and to mark Glastonbury’s 40th anniversary, my own mother reveals her material memories of 1971’s
Glastonbury Fayre I also run through a selection of this year’s best UK and European
Arts and music festivals
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Previous and following page: lakeside and stage photography courtesy of Latitude Festival
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Above: Brian Walker, Glastonbury Fayre, 1971
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Part three
News I explore the
Irving Penn Portraits exhibition at London’s National Portrait Gallery, take a surreal trip to Fashionably Curious at 118 Stafford Terrace and visit the seminal
Yves Saint Laurent retrospective in Paris. I also preview the Sadler’s Wells ballet
Eonnagata, the only theatre production for which Alexander McQueen ever designed costumes, and run through
Art and design exhibitions with a modernistic bent in the UK and Europe this summer
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Above: Irving Penn, Harlequin Dress (Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn), 1950
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Clockwise from top left: Acne Paper spreads hang in frames in the stariway; Mary Katrantzou A/W ‘09 in the master bedroom; Swash, Dream Machine S/S ‘10 in the studio; Sambourne prints in the bathroom; Peter Jensen, Resort 2010, -in the drawing room
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Clockwise from top left: Andy Warhol, Yves Saint Laurent, 1972; Helmut Newton, Charlotte Rampling in a Prince of Wales wool pantsuit, S/S 1974; David Seidner, Evening dress, A/W 1992 haute couture collection
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This page: FĂŠlix Dagenais, Eonnagata, 2009
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Left: Edvard Munch, Attraction I, 1896
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Above: Paul Gauguin, Teha’mana Has Many Parents, 1893
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Part four
Process In many ways, Fauve is all about investigating the creative process, but I decided to hone in on two sides of the artistic spectrum to build a fuller image.
Barbara Hulanicki, whose prolific and varied career has spanned seven decades, and a host of this year’s Central Saint Martins
MA Fashion graduates, about to embark on life in industry, give me insight as to how they approach their work. Also featured is a short essay on
ErtĂŠ, who died twenty years ago in April, leaving behind a staggering portfolio of illustration, design and unerring craftsmanship
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Top to bottom: Barbara Hulanicki in 1969; Donald Silverstein, page from first Biba mail order catalogue, 1968
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Left to right: First Biba mail order catalogue, 1968; Cosmetic counter at Big Biba, 1973; Barbara Hulanicki sketches, 2010; Barbara Hualnicki design for The Netherland, Miami Beach
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Left to right: hat stand display at Big Biba, 1973; page five from Biba magazine, September 1973
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Thomas Tait dresses a model in one of his designs
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Backstage at the Central Saint Martins Fashion MA show, February 2010
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Illustrations clockwise from right: Thomas Tait; Felipe Rojas-Llanos; Anja Mlakar; Trine Guldager
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Tamara Chung, illustration, 2009
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Right: Erté, cover design for Harper’s Bazaar, 1921
Part five
Paris, Russia The centenary of Sergei Diaghilev’s
Ballets Russes the ultimate in a Franco-Russian love-in, will be marked by a major exhibition at the V&A and while I pay homage to the colours of Léon Bakst in a fashion story, Erdem talks candidly about how their costumes inspire him. I also visit
An artist’s Paris and take a trip to
St Petersburg to paint a portrait of a beautiful city, and uncover a new Russian avant-garde
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Throughout story: Elise Audeyev, dancer; Elvis Schmoulianoff, hair and make-up Left: jumpsuit from Urban Outfitters; jewellery from a selection at Gillian Horsup
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Previous pages: Léon Bakst, Cléopâtre, 1909; top by Fiona Hayne. This page: Léon Bakst, Narcisse, 1911
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Left: pointe shoes, dancer’s own; skirt from Noa Noa
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This page: Léon Bakst, Cléopâtre, 1909; right: Erdem, Pre spring 2010, S/S 2010 and A/W 2009 collections. Next page: hairpiece from Vintage Modes
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Top: Pushkinskaya 10 and bottom: a photography exhibition at Etagi Loft Project
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Above: Valentin Simankov, anonymous, unknown date
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Part six
Colophon Photography, art direction and writing by
Imogen Eveson unless otherwise stated. With thanks to
Hywel Davies Iain R Webb Judith Watt Martin Andersen Lindsay May Zoe Wulfsohn-Dunkley all family and friends Print and production by robsquires@me.com See fauvejournal.com for film, fashion and art