Looking at the future of the beauty counter

Looking to the Future: the Beauty Industry, Retail Environments and Store Retailing Faye Wilkinson Nottingham Trent University N0349937 Fashion Communication and Promotion Stage 1: Research Project

CONTENTS Introduction Methodology Beauty Industry Impact of the Internet Retail Environment and Store Retailing Relationship between Consumer, Brand and Counter Conclusion Future Recommendations

page 7 pages 8-9 pages 10-12 pages 13-17 pages 18-23 pages 24-27 pages 28-30

List of References List of Figures Bibliography

page 32 page 33 page 34-37 pages 38-67

Appendix Word Count: 7074 (excluding quotes)

1. INTRODUCTION The aim of this report is to examine the retail environment in which beauty products are sold, with a focus on the beauty counter. The internet and developments in technology have impacted the shopping experience across all markets, which has led to changes in mass consumer expectations and desires.

Looking to the future of technology and applying this to the beauty counter should give insight into how the beauty retail environment may change and offer some reasonable predictions and opportunities.

Harriet Walker writing for the i Newspaper states that businesses must compel us to part with our cash through increasingly complex and also entertaining strategies (2012). Daniel Dalziel, creative director of UK-based design consultancy Danziel & Pow, adds that the retail experience must reflect the drastic shifts in shopping habits, and that stores must be a complete immersive branded experience (2012, online).

Therefore it can be said that brands must create a unique or tailored experience that allows the customer to justify a purchasing choice.

Pascal Armoudon and Hana Ben-Shabat writing on behalf of A.T. Kearney, the global consultancy firm, state that the beauty counter is the most important of the beauty retail environments (2012). According to them: 'it is where the sale is won or lost, where interaction with the brand comes to life, and where the seeds of loyalty are planted' (2012, online). This stresses on the importance of the relationship between the customer and the brand and how this is directly influenced by the beauty counter.

Figure 1

This research project will therefore investigate the four following aspects:

-the current beauty industry -the relationship between the consumer, brand and beauty counter -the impact of the internet and developments in technology -the retail environment This will be done with an intent to establish future predictions for beauty retail environments and how best for beauty brands to utilise them in order to establish strong consumer relationships.

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Figure 2

2. METHODOLOGY ‘Research is the investigation of an idea, subject or topic for a purpose. It offers the opportunity to investigate an area of interest from a particular perspective’ (Clough, P. & Nutbrown, C. 2007 pg. 5)

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When editing the beauty counter experience and design it is imperative to gain customer insights. This is so an overall attitude towards the current experience can be analysed and then recommendations based on this will be synonymous with those recommendations made with developments in technology and overall retail experience in mind. Interviews with those who work on beauty counters will also be completed as their knowledge of how a counter works will be invaluable.

Primary research into different counters across different locations in the UK and many retailers will also be undertaken. This is to broaden knowledge about beauty counter design and merchandising. Observing the way in which customers interact with these counters is also of upmost importance. Investigation into how the customers do this can also have massive impact on the recommendations about the layout of the retail environment.

Secondary research on different topics will be completed in order to gain valuable insights relevant to the beauty retail environments. Such topics will cover: consumer behaviour, psychology behind buying choices, innovation in technology, global market trends. This will be done through reading books with well-respected authors, reading industry-specific journals and marketing reports, reading newspapers and trend prediction web-sites.

Evaluation of Research Methods: Survey: The aim of doing this online survey is to get initial responses from women aged 18+ about their experiences buying beauty products and on beauty counters.

Using social media sites to post my survey means I will get quick responses to gain consumer attitudes towards beauty counters rapidly. Using an online survey meant that the responses were limited to 100 although more than that were received, getting the biggest sample possible is always of upmost importance and this was not taken into consideration. Being able to Tweet people within the industry with the survey link was good as their insights proved valuable.

Focus group with ten beauty counter assistants: I am arranging a focus group with ten counter assistants locally in order to gain feedback about how they think the retail experience is on a beauty counter and what their relationships are like with consumers.

9 group was hugely important, however a secondary focus group should have The focus been set up had time been permitting to get a second view of the conclusions and key findings found throughout the duration of the research. As always, having more people at the focus group would have been better to get a bigger sample and diversify the results.

Ethnographic research: The aim of doing some observations over a period of a week in two different retailers is to get some objective consumer behaviour research. It is to see how consumers interact with different beauty counters.

The ethnographic research was beneficial, however lack of experience and confidence became a bit limiting.

Industry Insight: Contacting people within the beauty industry is important in order to give validity to the research done.

This was limiting as unless the interview was done in person then no response via email was given. 4 interviews were carried out, however two of them were from the same brand so this means the findings were a little narrow.

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3. THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY Figure 3

‘Beauty is unbearable, drives us to despair, offering us for a minute the glimpse of an eternity that we should like to stretch out over the whole of time.’ (Camus, date unknown)

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There will always be a need or desire for beauty products and cosmetics as people have become programmed to constantly try to achieve the beauty ideal. Hannah Betts, writing for the Guardian, talks about the impact of makeup on culture as: 'ornamentation rituals are a defining feature of human society.' (2012, online) Makeup and expectations of women to wear makeup are intrinsically entwined into today's society and culture today. People look to visual imagery created by beauty brands (as one example) to understand the rules for femininity (Bordo & Jagger 1989, Barnard 2007) Malcolm Barnard when talking about fashion theory describes the process of wearing clothing as one that evokes anxiety, as we constantly fear being naked (2007).

The same could be said for makeup, many women say that they cannot even go to the shops without having makeup on. The beauty industry encourages this in order to sell makeup as a commodity and a necessity.

Consumers admit awareness of this, however the need for makeup is now so deep seated it does not deter them from the habitually wearing and buying makeup.

During primary research fourteen per cent of people who were asked why they would not go to a beauty counter said that it was because the counter assistants work based on commission. 'Sometimes I feel like they are only working for their commission rather than to genuinely benefit me.' (Survey Respondent 1, 2012, Appendix A) Consumers doubt the advice given to them by sales assistants because they think they are going for the hard sell most of the time.

Cosmetics often sell the idea of youth to consumer also. The expectation for women to look youthful is utilised by brands that sell anti-wrinkle creams and antipigmentation serums. Again consumers know that they cannot physically turn back time on their skin, and so in the last few years customers expect real scientific results to be attached to a product. It is much more desirable for a product that is scientifically advanced within the market.

Beauty treatments have become very popular in the last 10 years and with gene therapy and cyrotechnology (freezing the nerves in your face) set to be developed within the next five years (Ings-Chambers, 2012) they are probably going to increase in popularity. Big retailers such as Selfridge’s and Harvey Nichols are recognising the importance and popularity of beauty and cosmetic treatments as they both refitted their beauty halls in 2012 to include treatments such as spray tanning, teeth whitening and Botox.

In the aforementioned Future Laboratory Report (2012) it was also stated that by 2022 we will all have diagnostic mirrors that will be able to analyse the skin and will be connected to the internet to show recommended products with the option to purchase. If brands focus their attention on the experiential value of being on a beauty counter then this may still bring consumers in store in the future.

The Press Association reported when the UK beauty industry reached ÂŁ15bn worth on 29th February 2012.

Comparing this with the predictions made by Mintel in their yearly Beauty Retailing report, that beauty products are forecast 4%+ growth per annum to 2017 (2013). This shows the strength of the market and this is put down, in part, to the resilience of the premium segment. The premium segment of the market comprises of mostly brands that retail through beauty counters amongst other distribution channels which suggests that the beauty counter (the premium segment’s most valuable distribution channel) is vitally important to capitalise on this growth.

3. THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

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So to sum up the current state of the beauty industry:

-Beauty products will always be needed and steady growth is expected over the next five years -Consumers are much more aware of beauty brands and counter assistants manipulating them to purchase through promises of youthfulness and femininity -Consumers no longer trust a product that makes empty claims, they want scientific results, this is also in part due to the rise in non-surgical cosmetic treatments which have more effect on the skin than serums and creams -The popularity of beauty and cosmetic treatments is shown through their addition to luxury beauty retailers Harvey Nichols and Selfridge’s -Self-diagnosis technology will be available in homes in a decade, this reduces the need for consumers to come in store for this type of consultation, therefore brands need offer treatments that cannot be administered at home need in order to create a total beauty experience.

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3. THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

4. IMPACT OF THE INTERNET The internet has had a dramatic impact on the beauty industry and also on the retail experience of the beauty counter.

For the brands it has changed how they interact with consumers, social media has allowed them to reach consumers digitally. With this, consumer expectations of how they interact with brands have also changed. This is not just with social media but with the retail experience too. Lastly, the internet has also allowed for developments in wireless devices and access to software that has allowed in-store technology to advance greatly.

The Internet and Beauty Brands Beauty blogs have been a huge influence on the way consumers interact with beauty brands on the internet. Many powerful beauty bloggers are professional makeup artist and beauty editors who immediately gain trust through their history and of experience (Stylus A 2012).

Consumers trust these personal recommendations made by bloggers. Brands are utilising the value of this type of word-of-mouth publicity and have been sending products for bloggers to try and inviting bloggers to press days. The L’Oreal group have scouted some prominent bloggers to be their in-house bloggers.

The growth of digital imaging and rise of the internet generation has catalysed the act of self-documentation. Visual social media sites such as Pinterest and Tumblr have created a very visual form of self-documentation for online users, allowing them to reach beyond their peers. Utilising these visual social sites can allow brands to become more human by showing their brand personality and core values in a visual way (Stylus B 2012). Meaning that many brands can speak to these online users in a way that is most comfortable for them.

The running and maintenance of a beauty brand’s social networking site is hugely important. It can leave a positive lasting impression and create a strong relationship between the consumer and the brand. The Wildfire App by Google measures the return on investment of social media platforms in four categories: ‘Financial – have revenues or profits increased or costs decreased Digital- has the company enhanced its owned and earned digital assets Brand- Have consumer attitudes about the brand improved Risk management- Is the organisation better prepared to note and respond t o attacks or problems that affect reputation’

(Wildfire, 2013, online) This shows that social media sites must assist in helping the brand gain their long term business goals rather than fulfilled short term social media popularity.

Figure 4

‘[Questions posted on Facebook walls are] as important as any question asked at one of our counters, and so we strive to be fully and individually responsive to these,” says Thalberg of Estee Lauder Companies.’

(Thalbery on Mashable, 2011, online)

YouTube makeup tutorials have also become vastly popular. Meaning that viewers need not go into a store to get the tips and tricks that they would otherwise have received on counter. The view that makeovers in-store are not really free and that sales assistants expect consumers to make purchases prevents consumers from coming instore.

36% of people asked said that they felt sales assistants expected them to buy when visiting a beauty counter (Online Survey, 2012, Appendix A) This sort of pressure when combined with the convenience of watching YouTube videos means that beauty brands must come up with much more compelling justification for consumers to keep coming in-store.

replenish through e-commerce, and 18 per cent promote loyalty programs on their sites.’ (Digiday, 2012, online).

This is all allowing brands to improve the shopping experience online and meet consumer’s wants better.

Brands and websites are also creating communities for beauty lovers. Vichy is an example of a brand that has a community-based ‘loyalty programme’, MySkin. It says that online users will get their own personalised skincare routine, share with MySkin community and take advantage of exclusive offers. It allows users to save their favourite products, save personalised diagnoses, save favourite articles and videos and save their nearest pharmacies. (Vichy 2013)

‘I also feel wary when they offer a ‘free’ make over as this is never usually true, they expect you to buy at least 1 product. I think if they were more upfront and open about the services they offer people wouldn’t feel pressured into buying products.’ (Survey Respondent 2012) The internet has also allowed brands to develop their websites. L2 Think Tank, a global think tank for digital innovation, say that: ‘three quarters of brands now incorporate user reviews, 39 per cent support auto-

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4. IMPACT OF THE INTERNET

Websites that are not brand based but encourage an online community are also popular online. Users can upload their own beauty reviews of products. MakeupAlley has over two million user-uploaded beauty reviews and has been going since 1999 (Poq Studio 2012), however it is pretty dated looking and not that enjoyable to use. What’s in my Handbag is a much more visually sophisticated website. It is similar to LookBook.nu in the sense that users can see what is inside stylish people’s makeup bags. It combines a community with reviews, the ability to make purchases, interesting editorial content on a website that is nice to look at (Poq Studio 2012).

If there was a way to combine elements of both of these types of online beauty communities then online users would not have the need to have multiple profiles or join multiple communities. Brands including the visual sophistication and the user interaction of What’s in my Handbag would be beneficial and could entice consumers to buy more of that brand’s products in order show their loyalty online.

Observing consumer behaviour on Clinique.co.uk (2013) shows extremities in the number of reviews a user will upload; it seems as though some users review as many products as possible in order to be seen as the ultimate Clinique fan.

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Consumers and their desires

Innovation in Technology

The internet has changed the way consumers make purchasing choices and what they want to gain from the shopping experience. WGSN define the current consumer as being ‘the multichannel consumer’ (WGSN A 2012). What this means is that consumers are using a variety of channels to purchase products; through, for example, laptops, mobile devices and going in-store.

This is having an impact on the amount of sales made instore. Primary research showed that 5% of people would not purchase from a beauty counter as they would rather shop online (Online Survey 2012)

Clinique have their ‘On Counter Technology’ (OCT) which means that any counters with the technology can access a customer’s personal record online. The sales assistants can scan products with a bar code scanner onto the system under a customer’s name. They can save recommendations and keep a product record for each customer. However, this online customer registry system does not take into account sales made online via the Clinique website.

Comparing this to findings KANTAR have gathered in 2012 they say that 80 per cent of all sales are done in-store and 29.5 per cent of people will only purchase in-store. This shows the importance of the in-store environment. However the multichannel consumer is expecting a synonymous experience online and offline (WGSN B 2012).

Carrie Lennard writing for Skin Inc. Magazine splits the reasons for online beauty product purchase in two (2011).Typically those who buy beauty products online make purchases because they are satisfied with the quality of a prior purchase or having tried out the product in-store and then going online due to better prices. The consumer has access to more information about a brand and products than ever before and beauty brands need to embrace and utilise this.

Consumer desires are altering with the fragmentation of shopping channels due to the internet. Brands that offer a personal level of service are highly desirable to consumers (Stylus C 2012, WGSN B 2012, KANTAR 2012). Beauty brands already offer a personal level of service through the sales assistants doing makeup and offering consultations. If this sort of personalisation can be offered across all channels in some sort of unified way it will be attractive to consumers.

Facial recognition technology has been developed in Japan called NeoFace, created by information technology brand NEC (2012 online). It uses CCTV and a powerful facial detection engine to determine approximate gender, age and whether the person has been in the store previously.

Further to this, if they have been to the store before it will then show the number of times visited before, the length of time of those visits, the areas on the stores they most engaged with and the amount they spent. This developed from the practise of the science of shopping, as the software then analyses trends in consumer behaviour. Broadly speaking it will give an idea of the times or dates that certain demographics shop.

Case Study: Coca Cola created an event called FaceLook at a festival in Israel, which allowed festivalgoers to pre-upload face-data and pre-given permission to log in at kiosks using their faces (2011 online). Then Facebook would automatically update their location and continuously update their progress around the festival via their Facebook wall.

In backlash to facial mapping technology consumers may develops concerns about their privacy. Coca Cola’s respect for privacy and consent shows how this facial mapping technology could be harnessed in a way that users would feel comfortable with.

This type of facial recognition could work very well when combined with an online counter technology system such as Clinique’s as it could seamlessly retrieve someone’s product history and personal details quickly without having to take time to get the customer to give their details in order to get their profile up. It would also encourage consumers to keep coming in-store.

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Key Findings:

4. IMPACT OF THE INTERNET

-The internet has changed the way consumers and brands interact with each other, through their websites and social media platforms -The fragmentation of shopping channels has left consumers wanting a more personal level of service -Careful maintenance of social media sites is imperative in order to leave a good lasting impression and also to gain some sort of return on investment -Technology has been allowed to develop through the internet, meaning Clinique have an On Counter Technology customer registry system -Looking at ways to combine online customer registries with the ones in-store, like Clinique’s, through utilising the internet in-store will allow brands to create a better online and offline relationship, which may make consumers feel like they are being offered a more personal level of service and more like individuals within a community

Figure 6

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5. RETAIL ENVIRONMENTS AND STORE RETAILING ‘Department stores came of age at the turn of the 20th century, and consumers witnessed the introduction of the cosmetics counter, with its many brands and its experts in white coats who could analyse, prescribe and make over a consumer in one sitting.’ (Davis for Skin Inc Magazine 2008 online)

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Looking at store retailing and retail environments within the beauty industry will give insight into the future of the beauty counter. Looking at beauty hall and luxury designer store refurbishments in London suggest retail environments are going to be about technology and innovation. This is in part due to the consumer desires shifting towards a more technological and experiential environment in store.

In 1961, Lazer and Kelley defined the ‘retailing mix’ as being the total package of goods and services that a store offers for sale to the public. Akehurst and Alexander (1995) add further definition by describing the retail mix as being: ‘it is part product, part product and in the case of retailing there is a distribution channel’.

Making up the marketing retail mix are elements such as product range, consumer franchise or loyalty, shelf price, shelving, distribution and advertising (Akehurst and Alexander 1995, McGoldrich 1990). These physical elements are hugely important in for a beauty counter, it is possibly the most important physical retail environment for beauty brands.

The beauty counter has been a part of the luxurious experience of shopping in a department stores for around a century. With the premium and luxury goods that are sold in high end department stores shoppers expect more (A.T. Kearney 2012). It is difficult for brands to keep beauty counters of the same quality in terms of layout and merchandising across all retailers. What must be considered is the value of merchandising the counter in an up-to-date way versus the perception of the retailer.

In 2012 beauty hall refurbishments were popular within high end department stores in London. John Lewis on Oxford Street in London revamped its beauty hall. Harvey Nichols in Liverpool built a threefloor ‘beauty bazaar’ purely for beauty counters and cosmetic treatments. Selfridges also incorporated beauty treatments such as tanning and hair extensions into a separate section of the store called ‘The Beauty Workshop’. The implication of this is that beauty retailers are becoming more of a complete beauty experience, offering much more in terms of variety of treatments.

Figure 7

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Beauty retailers in New York in 2012 showed beauty brands investing in standalone and pop-up stores rather than department stores. WGSN noted that of these retailers and brands providing services alongside product was a key feature (C 2012). The Future Laboratory predicted the future of beauty over the next ten years to change to being a much more sensory experience in stores and salons (2011). This has already started to happen so brands really must step up the experiential value of going to a beauty counter.

Looking outside of beauty many fashion brands are redesigning their London flagship stores in order to be current and offer the consumer the best shopping experience as possible. In an article written by Harriet Walker for the i Newspaper she writes about how luxury designer stores are integrating technology into their retail environments to give customers an experience worth the effort, over online convenience (2012).

Technology on beauty counters has developed in terms of skin diagnosis. People can self diagnose their skin and machines have been developed that give much more thorough scientific insight into the skin. Vichy have developed the ‘Skin-Consult’ handheld device that analyses the skin on a variety of factors such as hydration/oiliness levels and skin pigmentation.

Clinique have integrated iPads onto counters to allow self-diagnose their skin type and skin concerns based on questions a dermatologist would ask. Recommended products are then shown and a print out with the information gives the consumer a reference point and something to take away with them. This gives customers the independence to complete their own consultation in their own time.From primary research consumers often feel that they want to be left alone to browse the counter in their own time (Online Survey 2012).

Nathalie Remy, partner at McKinsey & Co, speaking at the Luxury Marketing Summit in London, 2012 said: ‘Experiential luxury is a key growth category.

Experience matters more and more.’

(Stylus B, 2012, online)

According to Lisa Nivin, writing for Vogue (2012 online) Clinique are demonstrating that they know exactly what consumer want from their shopping experience on beauty counters through the brand new counter in Selfridges. Their counters in Selfridges, London and Bloomingdales, New York have been remerchandised with the ‘service as you like it’ concept, which includes a vending machine with the most popular Clinique products. This interactive form of retailing is highly enjoyable and innovative.

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5. RETAIL ENVIRONMENTS

Figure 8

‘A brand or retailer’s objective is always finding the right balance of product offerings and customer needs, while trying to achieve profit requirements’ (Greenley and Shipley, 1995, pg. 13) Figure 8

AND STORE RETAILING

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5. RETAIL ENVIRONMENTS AND STORE RETAILING Considering the experiential value of going in store and how this is developing through technology and more personal levels of service means that brands can better drive sales. This is due to the splintering of consumer spending across multiple channels as aforementioned this means that the future role of shops will be more about the experience, rather than in store transactions (Stylus D 2012) Although, it has been said that these brands have been returning to bricks and mortar as people are returning to purchasing things in-store rather than over the internet. The growth of online sales has plateaued over the last three years and therefore this again shows the importance of the physical retail environment. Jared Schiffman of Potion, an interactive technology company, says: ‘In store shopping is highly experiential, while online shopping is currently info-led.’ (Stylus B 2012 online.) Showrooming and the integration of interactive technology with access to the internet combines the best of both styles of shopping.

The importance of the physical retail environment can also be put down to the fact that these real experiences leave a much stronger impression on a consumer. This obviously makes it hugely important to manage; a bad experience will leave a bitter taste in the mouth of a customer. An experience can be far more influential in a purchasing choice (Underhill 2009).

Looking at innovation within retail environments shows that e-tailers are creating physical stores. Stylus reports that online e-tailers have set up ‘showrooms’ (Stylus C 2012), which means that people can see the products physically before purchasing them online there and then. eBay and Etsy are two web-sites that have done this. This provides seamless integration between online and offline experiences and a new way of purchasing products in a store.

Figure 9

Bodymetrics, a London-based company, have launched the first 3D body scanner in 2011. The body mapping technology allows for the body to be scanned and then allows customers to virtually try on outfits via the screen.

This innovative interactive technology provides the user with a unique experience that enriched the process of trying clothing on. Interestingly, Bodymetrics make the point that in the future body mapping technology, social media and brands will combine to store a person’s body data and use it to recommend outfits based on this, which will be accessible from home and in-store.

Audi have created the digital car showroom in December 2012 (Laird on Techradar). The two floor showroom is equipped with large touch displays which are linked to multi-panel displays. As the customer designs their Audi on the touch screens the multi-panel displays on the wall show the car being designed and developed.

This fully-interactive consumer-led experience shows a response for the need of a personal level of service in a digital environment. It also shows complete tailoring, which again is highly desirable in a commodity culture of mass-produced products.

Key Findings: -The importance of the retail environment is vast, due to the plateauing of online sales and it being predicted that the retail environment will be less about making a transaction and more about an experience -Experiential retail environments will be the most valuable to a brand, they will be a point of differentiation for a brand but they will also reflect the trend in sensory experiences in beauty -The value of a positive experience is very impressionable and can create very loyal customers -Interactive technology is being deployed in very innovative ways in retail -On counter technology has been developed to enable customers to have a more thorough skin diagnosis and also for them to be able to self-diagnose their own skin

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6. THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN

Figure 10

Looking at the beauty consumer will give insight into how to different consumers may react to the future recommendations and prediction being put in place concerning retail environments. Looking at the way shop and their physical interactions with a store will also allow for some analysis and give justification for these recommendations. It is also important to address the importance of the consumerrelationship to the brand and to the beauty counter.

“The New Beauty Consumer – As the beauty market continues to change, so too does the beauty consumer. We examine how Gen Ds, New Millennials, ThirtyFiveUps, Generation Jones and Boomers differ in their tastes, attitudes and behaviour – and what it means for beauty brands” (The Future Laboratory, 2011, online)

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The study of the way people shop has been around for the last 40 years, Paco Underhill was the pioneer for the ‘science of shopping’ and he describes it as ‘the tools of urban anthropology and using them to study how people interact with the retail environment’ (2009 pgs 18-19). Alongside him, many people have studied and have been commissioned to look into how people interact with retail environments, specific brands and how specific consumer groups behave in the retail environment. There appears not to be much research in terms of the beauty counter or the beauty industry.

CONSUMER, COUNTER AND BRAND ‘When studying the cosmetics section of a drugstore chain, we watched a woman in her sixties approach a wall rack, study it carefully and then kneel before it so she could find the one item she needed: concealer cream, which, due to its lack of glamour, was kept at the very bottom of the display.’

(Underhill, 2009, pgs. 12-13)

Observing beauty counters in John Lewis, Oxford Street on 5th January 2013 proved very insightful. In the two hours spent in-store approaching counters and looking at products only two consultants approached to see if they could be of service; of those two people only one of them offered to demonstrate a product or offer any further assistance. In comparison to this, a woman of 57 did this too and found that five counter assistants approached and asked her if they could be of service.

When going around the beauty halls in Liberty’s and John Lewis in London on 5th January the counters that appeared the busiest were the open counters that were not enclosed by any walls.

Clarins in particular in John Lewis had a wide but short counter with counters are hip height running along the front which made the counter seem very open and Clarins were by far the busiest counter for the two hour duration period.

Going back to the consumer and looking at the psychology of buying and influencing the purchasing choice it appears that it is possible to make changes to the layout or design of a counter to encourage up-selling. Situating products that complement each other well directly next to each other may provide opportunities to increase interest in a higher number of items.

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It has been found, through primary research, that both sales assistants and consumers appreciate the need for a private consultation area. When asked why consumers might not feel inclined to go to a beauty counter five separate people gave the primary reason as being that they do not like having their makeup taken off in an open environment where other shoppers can see them (2012). A member of the focus group undertaken also made it very clear that a private consultation on her counter was something very important for counter layout (2012).

Building positive relationships is vitally important to a beauty brand. The beauty counter is such an important consumer touch point that can influence consumers to be positive about the brand themselves.

The value of reviews is growing rapidly; many people trusting reviews more than the recommendations of sales assistants. With digital platforms many reviews are easily accessible for mass consumers.

Stylus describes the process of creating brand advocates from loyal customers into ‘evangelists’ (Stylus E 2012). These sorts of loyal fans will celebrate in the brand’s successes and will also feel so immersed in the brand that they will often convert as many of their peers as possible into consumers. They are particularly relevant as they embody complete trust in a brand.

The counter assistant is also vitally important to the consumer’s relationship with the brand. They have a direct interaction with the consumer, and also offer personal service whilst representing the brand. Trust in the sales assistant is hugely important: ‘The enhancement of consumer’s feelings of care, concern and trustworthiness is important.’ (Poon et al 2012 page 599) Poon et al go on to state: ‘Consultative task and personal relationship play a vital role in influencing buyer perceptions of expertise, trust and relationship loyalty’ (Poon et al 2012 page 589)

‘Informed sales associates who offer free consultations allow brands to educate the consumer and increase buying opportunities’

(WGSN, 2012, online)

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6. THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN

A sales assistant’s relationship with their brand is also very important. The focus group completed showed the direct relationship between a sales assistant’s happiness and the relationship they had with their brand (2012).

Sales assistants also said that they felt very under pressure to hit their monthly targets which is something that the online survey of counters also picked up on. 36% of consumers said they would not attend a beauty counter because of the sales assistants being too pushy with sales (2012). This is very important as it prevents sales assistants and consumers from developing relationships.

Relationship between consumers and brands can be manipulated for the better through the sales assistant and the counter experience. The following are the main points for maintaining positive relationships: -Creating brand advocates can result in these consumers converting peers into brand followers -Trust in sales assistant and consumer relationships is vital to strengthen trust in brands -Changing the layout of a beauty counter to be tailored to meet consumer needs may increase the length of time spent on a counter and as a result may result in up or link-selling -A sales assistant’s relationship with the brand can also be beneficial; a motivated and happy consultant will have a direct impact on shopping experiences for the better -Targets and commission-based work mean there is a breakdown in trust with consumers and sales assistants feel pressured in their work, which has a detrimental effect on sales

Figure 12

CONSUMER, COUNTER AND BRAND 27

7. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY To conclude a summary of the key factors that are going to contribute towards the changing experience of the beauty counter will be completed.

Firstly, the beauty industry is set to change with consumers demanding much more results from products due to semi cosmetic treatments working deeper into the skin. Beauty treatments have also become very popular and this is important to the beauty brand and counter experience as it is a way to ensure consumers keep coming in store.

It has been predicted that within the next few years physical retail environments will be less about the transaction and more about the experience. Stores will become a place to try products on and to experience a brand, whilst also seamlessly integrating technology and the brand’s digital presence. The value of the experience is leaves a far more lasting impression on a consumer than any other shopping channel.

Creating positive relationships between brands, consumers, sales assistants and counters is vitally important.

Brand advocates will often convert their peers into following a brand. Trust in sales assistants can also have a direct impact on the shopping experience and purchasing decision. The motivational levels of a sales assistant are paramount too, as consumers feel pressurised by sales assistants to make purchases. More often than not the sales assistant is under pressure to complete monthly targets and this stress can be felt by consumers.

Considering elements of design, layout and placement of testers on a counter should be well thought out.

Simple adjustments such as placing complimentary products next to each other can maximise selling. Considering the experience from the consumer’s point of view it is necessary to ensure they are as at ease at possible so private make up or skin treatment stations should be set up.

A set of future recommendations into how exactly to merchandise a beauty counter will be outlined, this will take into the key factors as mentioned here and the key findings from each section of the research project.

Figure 13

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8. FUTURE RECOMMENDATIONS

After analysing the data from the online survey completed, three main categories of consumer concerns.

Problems concerning the general experience on a counter were frequently mentioned, as were issues with the merchandising of the counter and also the sales assistants on beauty counters.

Cross-referencing this with the results of the focus group, the beauty counter assistants also flagged up issues with the merchandising of the counter, not feeling wellsupported by their brand and also the pressures felt to hit targets, which took away from what they enjoyed most about their job; they get most job satisfaction from speaking to customers and helping them achieve more self-confidence through makeup.

Firstly, going through some basic recommendations will help change the beauty counter experience for the brand, sales assistant and consumer. Then some recommendations will be made looking further into the future, taking all the forecasting that has been researched into, into consideration.

If possible design the counter so it is open at the front so consumers feel more comfortable approaching it. Some privacy and height at the back or the sides of the counter is necessary in order to allow consumers to browse without feeling watched. Consultation or makeup stations should be situated in the most private part of the counter so consumers feel most at ease.

The three basic components of any beauty counter are: makeup, skincare and fragrance. The three should be kept separate but the layout of these individually should be taken into consideration. They need to be separate because it is far more likely that link-selling will occur between similar items of products. A fragrance and the same-scented body lotion. A moisturiser and the matching eye cream. A nail varnish and the matching lipstick colour.

Placing singular testers of products such as fragrance testers or hand creams can also result in impulse purchases. Ensuring that a makeup bar is fully stocked with clean testers is one of the ways brands could

encourage impulse purchases. The ‘lipstick’ is a term that has been coined to describe the smaller items of beauty purchased to give a sense of luxury and pampering without spending vast amounts on expensive products.

Link-selling cheaper items such as lipsticks, nail varnishes or eye liners can add value and increase the number of products in a transaction. This could help with sales assistants achieving their targets.

Something else that is hugely important to the running of the beauty counter is maintaining stock levels and not running out of stock of products. Brands working better with retailers to ensure correct stock levels is vastly important. This management of stock levels is important for now, over the next five to ten years the retail environment may not even stock products themselves, as you will order the products you want digitally whilst instore and then the idea would be to send the items to the consumer’s homes.

Building up better relationships with sales assistant and brands is also vitally important. They are crucial to the personalised level of service that is involved on the beauty counter. They can leave a long lasting impression on a consumer and their attitude throughout the buying process can have a very heavy impact on a consumer. For brands it is essential to make the sales assistant feel wellsupported and a valued member of the brand.

An example of the way Clinique and House of Fraser support their members of staff is by producing an in-house magazine, Clinique News and Host. These magazines celebrate the individual successes of staff members whilst also giving updates. This personal type of communication enforces that brand’s value for the staff members in a personal way. If brands can mass produce these sorts of personal communication it will benefit the brand and the sales assistant.

Training is hugely important for the sales assistant.

Consumers sometimes question a sales assistant’s ‘expertise’ so by training them up as best as possible will enable the sales assistant to speak with authority and knowledge. Also encouraging the sales assistant to

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reflect the brand as much as possible, in terms of selfpresentation, is very important. Consumers are put off by sales assistants that wear too much makeup.

in-store consultation. These sort of customer databases would present opportunities for brands in terms of targeting marketing.

Looking to the future of retailing and store environments and beauty counters it is important to consider how to keep consumers coming in-store. Offering relevant beauty treatments in the style of semi cosmetic treatments mean that consumers come into a physical environment rather than making repeat purchases online.

Brands would be able to target a much wider range of consumers in a much more specific way. Having a complete purchasing history combined with a record of their visits in-store will provide brands with the tools to invite them in-store for special relevant events, such as gift with purchase. Relevant, new product launches will also be received by a wider audience.

Many counters offer facials as a part of their service but this is not capitalised on. Clarins do this very well, taking consumers away from the counter to special beauty treatment rooms. They integrate this well within their communication strategies to consumers; they always offer facials within promotional material and as a part of their service. Facials can often open up opportunities to link-sell other items of skincare that a consumer may not be using. Regular beauty treatment can also build up a strong consumer and sales assistant relationship, which is also very important.

On counter technology will develop alongside the retail environment, being a merger of digital and physical will be seen. Technology that will be able to diagnose a consumer’s skin will probably evolve. There are predictions that diagnostic mirrors will be in homes by 2022, and so brands will need to introduce these sorts of technologies as early as possible.

Technologies such a computerised customer registries will most likely roll out across many beauty brands. To date, Clinique are the only well-known beauty brand that does this. However, this does not link with sales that are made with via their website. If a brand invests in this sort of technology on counter, it will be much more worthwhile if a customer’s purchasing history can be updated in-store and online.

Self-diagnosis online can be done with Vichy and Clinique. However this does not link to the in-store environment. If a customer could create a profile, select the types of products they are interested in, diagnose their skin with questions that defines their skin typing and concerns, select services or treatments that they may be interested in, then this would encourage many consumers to try this out from the comfort of their own home.

If a sales assistant could access this information in-store through the online counter technology this would reduce the length of time spent with new customers and also the customer would feel more informed before they had the

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Maintaining the brand’s web-site is hugely important too. The digital platform of a brand can create very loyal customers. Loyal customers can convert peers into brand users too. With personal and targeted social media pages online users will feel like an individual, which is difficult to get across with digital platforms.

Revolutionising the way a beauty brand and counter recommends products could be appropriate when considering the predicted drastic changes to in-store environments. If they are going to function mainly as environments in which consumers test products and have treatments done then it might be relevant to make the design of the counter more product-led.

What is meant by this is having products grouped in complimentary colours or looks. For example, day or night look for different age groups or skin colour. This again could encourage link-selling but importantly it means that products will be presented in a different way, one that is unique. YouTube videos of makeup tutorials show viewers how to apply makeup but they cannot recommend what would suit someone’s complexion or hair and eye colour.

One revolutionary way to change the way beauty products are retailed is to create branded stores. For example, if Estee Lauder Companies created a retailer it would include all of their brands. From Clinique to Mac to Aveda to DKNY Fragrances. This would be more of a one-stop shop for the beauty consumer. Staff members would be able to advise on any of the brands and therefore trust would be placed in them as they would be recommending a product right for someone regardless of brand. This could result in beauty conglomerates achieving more market share within the beauty industry.

In conclusion, much can be done to enrich the beauty counter experience for the consumer and for the sales assistant. This report has suggested potential recommendations to keep the beauty counter relevant in the face of retail environments changing dramatically over the next five years.

8. LIST OF REFERENCES Walker, 2012 Dalziel, 2012: online A.T. Kearney, 2012 A.T. Kearney, 2012 Clough & Nutbrown, 2007: 5 Camus, date unknown Betts, 2012: online Bordo & Jagger, 1989 Barnard, 2007 Barnard, 2007 Survey Respondent, 2012: appendix A Press Association, 2012: online Mintel, 2013 Ings-Chambers, 2012 Ings-Chambers, 2012 Stylus A, 2012 Stylus B, 2012 Wildfire, 2013: online Thalberry on Mashable.com, 2011: online Online Survey, 2012: Appendix A Survey Respondent, 2012: Appendix A Digiday.com, 2012: online Vichy, 2013: online Poq Studio, 2012: online Poq Studio, 2012: online Clinique, 2013: online WGSN A, 2012 Online Survey, 2012: Appendix A KANTAR, 2012 WGSN B, 2012 Lennard, 2011: online Stylus C, 2012 WGSN B, 2012 KANTAR, 2012 NeoFace, 2012: online Digital Buzz Blog, 2011: online Lazer & Kelley, 1961 Akhurst & Alexander, 1995 Akehurst & Alexander, 1995 McGoldrich, 1990 Davis on Skin Inc. Magazine, 2008: online A.T. Kearney, 2012 WGSN C, 2012 The Future Laboratory, 2011 Walker, 2012 Online Suvey, 2012: Appendix A Nivin on Vogue, 2012: online

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The Future Laboratory, 2011: online Underhill, 2009: 18-19 Underhill, 2009: 12-13 Stylus D, 2012 Stylus B, 2012: online Underhill, 2009 Stylus C, 2012 Stylus B, 2012: online Greenley & Shipley, 1995: 13 Laird on Techradar, 2012: online Online Survey, 2012: Appendix A Focus Group, 2012: Appendix B Stylus E, 2012 Poon et al, 2012: 599 Poon et al, 2012 : 589 Focus Group, 2012 ; Appendix B Online Survey, 2012 : Appendix A WGSN A, 2012: online

9. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figure 1 ‘Bobbi Brown makeup testers’ 2012 [photograph] taken by Eva Sirgi Figure 2 ‘Cosmetics Counter’ 2013 [photograph] taken by Darren Liny Figure 3 ‘Makeup brushes’ date unknown [photograph] taken by Akshatta Shetty Figure 4 ‘Clinique Counter’ 2010 [photograph] taken by Clinique for Press Release Figure 5 ‘What’s in my handbag ?’ 2013 [screenshot] www.whatinmyhangbag.com taken 4 Feb 13 Figure 6 ‘Benefit counter’ 2010 [photograph] taken by Holly Curtis Figure 7 ‘Sephora Store’ 2012 [photograph]taken by Vincenzo D’Alto Figure 8 ‘Urban Decay Counter’2012 [photograph] photographer unknown Figure 9 ’Clinique Integrated Technology’ 2010 [photograph] taken by Clinique for Press Release Figure 10 ‘Selfridge’s Beauty Hall 2011 [photograph] taken by Colette Walsh Figure 11 ‘Mac Counter’ 2010 [photograph] taken by Leanne Act Figure 12 ‘Clinique Review’ 2013 [screenshot] www.clinique.co.uk taken 4 Feb 13 Figure 13 ‘Bobbi Brown makeup testers’ 2012 [photograph] taken by Eva Sirgi

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Betts, H. (2012) Beauty industry: a stealth imperalism with self-harm as its main weapon. The Guardian, [online] 29th August.

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(1995) Retail Marketing. 1st ed. Portland, London: Frank Cass, p.13-24.

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Hall, L. et al. on WGSN B (2013) Retail’s Big Show 2013: key themes. [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/report/Business_Strategy/Thought_Leadership/Conference_Reports/2013/January/retails_big_show2013keythemes.html [Accessed: 29 Jan 2013].

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Indvik, L. on Mashable.com (2011) 5 best practices for brands on Facebook. [online] Available at: http://mashable. com/2011/08/01/beauty-brands-facebook/ [Accessed: 26 Jan 2013].

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Kantar (2012) Introduction to Kantar [presentation] 21 Nov 2012. Nottingham: Nottingham Trent University Kumar, S. et al. (2006) Comparative innovative business strategies of major players in cosmetic industry. Journal of Industrial Management & Data Systems, 106 (3), p.285-306.

Laird, J. (2012) Audi’s digital showroom is the ultimate car buying experience. [online] Available at: http://www.techradar.com/ news/car-tech/audis-digital-showroom-is-the-ultimate-car-buying-experience-1116194 [Accessed: 1 Feb 2013].

Lazer, W. & Kelley, E. (1961) The Retailing Mix: Planning and Management Jounral or retailing, Vol. 37, No. 1 LEE, K., & CARTER, S. (2012). Global marketing management: changes, new challenges, and strategies. 3rd ed. Oxford, Oxford University Press.

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10. APPENDIX A: ONLINE SURVEY

This is a completely anonymous questionnaire. Its results will inform a research project of a third year University student. Its findings will be recorded for the purpose of research. In completing this questionnaire you are giving permission for your answers to used and included in the research project. All questionnaire responses will be kept in accordance with the Data Protection Act and destroyed at the end of the project.

1. What is your age?

18 to 24 25 to 34 35 to 44 45 to 54 55 to 64 65 to 74 75 or older 2. How often to you buy a beauty or cosmetic product?

Once a week Once a fortnight Once a month Once every three months Once every six months Once a year 3. Where do you buy your products from? (more than one answer if applicable) Online Specific brand website Beauty counter Supermarket Mail order/catalogue Specific brand store (eg Benefit Boutique, Illamasqua flagship store) Other (Please specify) 4. Do the following factors affect your buying choices? (can choose multiple answers) Offers or deals in-store Brand on ‘gift with purchase’ Presence of sales assistants to help Loyalty points card (Boots, Debenhams, House of Fraser) Whether there is a tester or if someone will test it on you

Other (please specify) 5. How often do you visit beauty counters?

Once a week Once a fortnight Once a month Once every three months Once every six months Once a year 6. How confident do you feel in approaching a beauty counter? (1 being that you have no confidence, 3 being you feel a bit wary, 5 being that you have no problem approaching a counter) 1 2 3 4 5 7. Please give reasons why you might prefer to go to a beauty counter 8. Please give reasons why you would not want to go to a beauty counter 9. If you have been to a beauty counter in the past 12 months please could you name the brands you have bought from?

10. Again, if you have purchased products from a beauty counter in the last months please could you list where these counters were? (eg Debenhams, House of Fraser, Boots etc)

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10. APPENDIX A: ONLINE SURVEY RESULTS 1.

16 -24 25-34 55-64

95% 4% 1%

2.

Once a year nil Once every six months Once every three months Once a month 37% Once a fortnight 32% Once a week 13% More than once a week nil

3% 15%

3.

High street retailer (Boots, Superdrug etc) 78% Online 20% Specific brand web-site 5% Beauty counter in store 57% Supermarket 24% Mail order/catalogue 2% Specific brand store (eg Benefit boutique, Illamasqua, MAC) 28% Other 1 Abroad 4.

Offers or deals in store 85 Brands on ‘gift with purchase’ 24 Presence of assistants for help 29 Loyalty points card 59 Whether there is a tester or someone there to test it for you 41 None of the above 5 Other 8 Low price/offers online Recommendations from friends Reputation of brand 2 Trust in product 2 Blog/YouTube Reviews Cheaper to buy abroad 5.

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Once a year 10% Once every six months Once every three months Once a month 20% Once a fortnight 20% Once a week 14% More than once a week nil

11% 25%

6.

1 7 2 11 3 20 4 24 5 25 ‘I enjoy makeup and I enjoy the buying process, so I like to engage in conversation with the assistant on the counter, also they are able to give me professional advice on what colours suit me etc. and inform me about new products.’ (Survey Respondent, 2012) 7.

C2 To try or sample products 9 C1 To get expertise knowledge or advice 74 C2 Wider range of products on a beauty counter 4 None 8 E More personal experience 11 C2 Have my make up done 4 C2 Better quality of products on counter 2 C2 Try out new products/brand 7 C1 Colour matching foundation done 11 E Better quality of experience 5 E1 More luxurious 3 C2 All the brands I like in one retailer which has beauty counters 2 C2 Brand I use only has beauty counters 2 Total reasons given: 142 Experience-related 11+ 5 + 3= 19 Counter assistant-related

74 + 11 = 95 Convenience-related 9 + 4 + 4+2+7+2+2 = 30 8.

‘The girls can be quite snooty and pushy with sales, sometimes I feel like they are only working for their commission rather than to genuinely benefit me. I also feel wary when they offer a ‘free’ make over as this is never usually true, they expect you to buy at least 1 product. I think if they were more upfront and open about the services they offer people wouldn’t feel pressured into buying products.’ (Survey Respondent, 2012) ‘Because they can be intimidating, rude and unhelpful, some brand only want to serve certain types of customers that they feel suite their brand & brand image. Also they can make you feel rushed and not actually make a good recommendation, yet you feel pressurised to buy. The layout can be intimidating aswell ( especially at boots beauty counters) as you are put on a stool in a very busy walkway, whilst other customers are trying to look at products, it takes away for the shopping experience and the aspirational and luxury feel you would expect when buying from certain brands. It can also be daunting to have you make up wiped off in public.’ (Survey Respondent, 2012) A Sales assistants too pushy or there is an expectation to buy 36 A The sales assistant work on comission/question whether they are being truthful 14 C / A Intimidation approaching counter/sales assistants 17 A Question whether sales assistants are ‘experts’ 7 C Don’t like the layout/having makeup taken off 5 P Prefer to look for products myself/know what I want 10 P None/not applicable 9 C / A Time consuming/too little time for buying process 8 C / A If sales assistants are too busy/no one there/ counter is overly busy 9 A Sales assistants wearing too much makeup 5 P Don’t shop on beauty counters 5 P Other/personal reasons 4 Total reasons given: 120 Counter related 17+5+9+8= 40

Assistant related 36+14+17+7+9+5+8= 96 Personal choice related 10+9+5+4=28 C / A General experience on counter 17+8+9= 34 MAC 36 No7 14 Estee Lauder 10 L’Oreal 2 Clarins 7 Liz Earle 1 Clinique 18 Bioterm 1 Lancome 5 Dior 9 Benefit 36 Chanel 13 Bobbi Brown 9 Girogio Armani Jo Malone 2 Smashbox 3 YSL 18 Laura Mercier 5 Kiehl’s 1 NARS 3 Origins 1 Avene 1 Bare Minerals Elizabeth Arden Illamasqua 2 Urban Decay 5 Tom Ford 1

1

1 2

10.

Boots 51 Debenhams 20 Liberty ‘s 2 Selfridge’s 17 MAC store 9 John Lewis 13 House of Fraser 34 Airport 3 Fenwick’s 3 Bloomingdale’s 1 Harvey Nicols 3 Space NK 1 Macy’s 1 Browns 1 Sephora 1 Lloyd’s Pharmacy/Independent Pharm.

Harrods 1 39

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10. APPENDIX B: FOCUS GROUP Introduction to focus group/interview I am Faye Wilkinson and as part of my programme of study am undertaking research into beauty counters.

To enable me to answer my research questions I wish to talk to you about your experience of working on a beauty counter.

The focus group/interview will be a focussed discussion and will take approximately 40 minutes. We will concentrate on the following: You and your relationship with the beauty brand you work for The way you feel about how your counter is put together Your job role in detail The focus group/interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you.

The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my project/dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making.

The tapes will be kept in a locked room and the transcripts on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

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YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED Project Title: The Future of the Beauty Counter What is the project about?

This project is about beauty counters and in order to research in dept I will be researching the following: -the current beauty industry -the relationship between the consumer, brand and beauty counter -the impact of the internet and developments in technology -the retail environment This will be done with an intent to establish future predictions for beauty retail environments and how best for beauty brands to utilise them in order to establish strong consumer relationships.

Who is running this study?

I am a student from Nottingham Trent University, completing my final year dissertation in concordance with the University’s policies and I am being supervised by a personal tutor there.

Why have I been chosen to take part?

I have picked you to take part in this focus group as you will help me distinguish was may be possible and not. You will also be able to give me invaluable insight into how a counter is run.

What do you want me to do?

I would just like you to answer 10 questions alongside nine other girls who work on beauty counters.

Do I have to take part?

Your participation is entirely voluntary. No one else will be informed of your participation or non-participation.

At any subsequent point, you can withdraw from the project and if you wish, withdraw any of the information that you have given so far (through interview or other). You do not have to give any reason for withdrawing.

What will happen to the information I provide?

In order to keep a record of the interviews I would like to tape the discussion and have transcribed into text. I will then analyse the information and feed it into our results. At the end of the study all the tapes, transcripts and any other information collected will be destroyed.

How will you protect my confidentiality and anonymity.

The tape and transcript will only be handled by me, in line with data protection principles and our approved research protocol.

Hard copies of research notes are kept in locked cabinets, and electronic files are kept on password protected computers which are not accessible to any other person.

You will not be named or otherwise identified in any document or medium that is available to anyone. All evidence used in subsequent publications will be anonymised – I will use a pseudonym or a descriptor’. I will exercise all possible care to ensure that you cannot be identified by the way I write up my findings.

What are the possible disadvantages and risks in taking part?

The main cost to you will be the time needed to be interviewed I am confident that the arrangements described above will prevent any of your information being shared with anyone. For this reason, I believe that the risk of detriment is very low.

What are the possible benefits?

I hope that you will find participation interesting, and you gain some interesting knowledge about the way other beauty brands work.

What will happen to the results?

The results will be used as part of my university assessed work, in a research project dissertation. It will be read by my tutors and be made available to the external examiner, who is an academic from another university.

How can I find out more about this project and its results?

By contacting: Myself at faye-wilko@hotmail.co.uk

Focus Group Thursday 6th December 2012 at 19:00 in Caffe Nero, House of Fraser High Wycombe Focus Group run by Faye Wilkinson 10 participants, all women who work on beauty counters of varying job roles Faye: Ok guys thank you very much for your time, hopefully we will have time to get through the questions I have come up with for you all, but we won’t go over the hour slot I have you for as I know most of you have joined us straight after work. To start us off could we start with going round in a circle and saying the job role and the company you work for? We could start from either side. My left or right. Would either of you like to start?

Toni: I don’t mind starting Faye: Fantastic, thank you. Please go ahead.

Toni: I’m Toni. I am the Clinique counter manager for House of Fraser.

Faye: Brilliant thank you. Have you worked for any other companies or in any other stores?

Toni: Yes. I have worked for Clarins and Decleor. And I have worked in Harrods and also House of Fraser in London.

Faye: Ok. Thank you. Would you like to go next? We will just go round in a circle if that’s ok?

Jess: Oh well. Ok. Well I have worked in lots of different places. I have worked for Benefit and now I am a Clinique account manager. I have worked in House of Fraser and Debenhams and now I work in Boots in Uxbridge. And my name’s Jess.

Faye: Thanks. Next?

Kristie: I’m Kristie and well I am just a sales assistant for Estee Lauder here in HOF. But I did used to be an associate when I was younger for Clinique and that meant I went into any store that they were short-staffed on. I’ve worked in Aylesbury, Milton Keynes and also Northampton. I think that’s it. The stores I worked in were Boots, Debenhams and other House of Fraser stores.

Faye: Ok good, cheers.

Daisy: I’m Daisy. I am the account manager for Lancome. I used to be the account manager for Benefit in House of Fraser in Aylesbury. I have only worked in House of Frasers though.

Faye: That’s fine, I just wanted a general idea of whereabouts people have worked. It doesn’t matter if you have worked in lots of different places or not.

Becki: Hi everyone, I’m Becki. Ok well everywhere I’ve worked is pretty extensive. I am the account manager for Guerlain in Harrods now. But I was the Dior account manager in Selfridges. And before that I was the account manager for Lancome in Lloyds Pharmacy down the road in Beaconsfield. I was also a Dior sales assistant, kind of like, an acting account manager for a while in Lloyds Pharmacy.

Faye: Wow ok cool. Next?

Frieda: Hi Faye. I am Frieda. I used to be the Clinique account manager in Lloyds Pharmacy in Beaconsfield. Then I moved to House of Fraser in Wycombe to be the Estee Lauder account manager. And then I moved to Boots where I am now in the same position still Lauder account manager.

Faye: Thanks.

Laura: I’m Laura. This isn’t my full time job. I just work weekends for Clinique in Lloyds in Beaconsfield. I am a full time personal assistant to someone in Wycombe normally.

Faye: That’s perfect, thank you.

Fareeda: I am Fareeda. I have been the YSL account manager here since the store opened. I didn’t work in this sort of thing before that.

Faye: Cheers.

Leanne: Hi I am Leanne everyone. I used to work upstairs like on the menswear section and then about a year ago I came down here to work on the Clinique counter. I work four days a week.

Faye: Thanks Leanne. And lastly?

Ellie: Hi guys I’m Ellie. I am the Urban Decay manager here for those of you who don’t know me. I used to be a sales assistant there but my old manager has gone on maternity leave and luckily I just kind of like got the manager’s role.

Faye: Ok that’s absolutely fantastic guys. A really good variety of different counters and different stores which is really going to help . Ok now can we go round again starting with Toni if you don’t mind Toni. I would really like to know how much pressure you feel working in your job position.

Toni: I feel a medium amount. More during Christmas, which is coming up. And also Bonus Time, which we’ve just come off. It’s a pretty stressful time of year at the moment!

Faye: Cool thanks.

Jess: Yeah same. Probably like five out of ten.

Kristie: Well I don’t feel pressured by Lauder. I think its mainly pressure I like put on myself.

Faye: Awesome. Thanks. Daisy?

Daisy: Well I feel a lot of pressure. Pressure from Lancome. But mainly pressure from House of Fraser to meet their stupid demands. I don’t want to sell people mastercards, I don’t work in a bank!

Faye: Ok, interesting. Next?

Becki: I have always had high pressured jobs and there is more pressure working in London but I don’t mind it too much because I work pretty well under pressure. I am also pretty well supported by Guerlain.

Faye: Oh wow, cool. And you?

Frieda: Well as an account manager I do feel quite a lot of pressure. But that’s because of my job. Well yeah and cos Lauder is a

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premium brand so people expect the best from you.

Faye: Yep good. Thanks.

Laura: I don’t feel much pressure at all. I really enjoy my job.

Faye: Well that’s good. Cheers.

Fareeda: I feel some pressure on YSL when we are underperforming against the monthly target but that’s about it.

Leanne: I feel a lot of pressure constantly working for Clinique. Sometimes I get scared if I don’t get my target. I just get stressed out easily .

Faye: Oh I see. Do you feel that pressure coming from Clinique to hit your target?

Leanne: Not from Toni, but I do feel pressure. Like they check our targets at head office and I am scared I will get told off.

Faye: Fair enough, that’s not nice having that worry I guess. Ellie?

Ellie: I have felt more since getting the manager’s job. But not too much.

Faye: Ok good. Right. Ok well, basically I would like to know whether you feel well supported by your brand. Like do you feel like if you had a question you would know who to ask or if you were missing some visual merchandising collateral would you be able to locate or order it yourself easily. That kind of thing. Oh and do you feel like well trained and things. And do you have a good relationship with your account manager?

Toni: I speak to my area manager three times a week and I feel very well supported.

Jess: I don’t speak to her as often as that Toni! Well I feel that Clinique are very organised, and they really help you get started out as a manager. They check up on you quite a lot which is nice. I didn’t have that with Benefit.

Faye: Ok interesting to hear the comparisons. Kristie?

Kristie: Yeah, um, well being a sales assistant not a manager I just feel like if I need anything I can go to Sam. If I do need to speak to Lauder though they always help me as much as they can.

Faye: Ok thanks. Next?

Daisy: Yes I feel that Lancome are always there for me. I prefer speaking to them at head office than my area manager actually.

They train you up really well too. The training we go on three times a year is always so good and fun.

Faye: Yep good.

Becki: I feel hugely supported in my job role. Last Christmas my area manager came in and helped me unpack all my boxes for delivery. And also the MD of Guerlain here came in and worked a whole day with me!

Jess: What? That’s insane. I don’t think you’d have that with Clinique. I think the company is too big for that.

Toni: No definitely not.

Faye: Ladies, I know you probably want to like talk about all of these things but I really don’t have a lot of time to be chatting in between different people. Sorry. I am really sorry.

Frieda: Don’t worry, I want to get home as soon as we’re done here anyway so don’t worry about it. Anyway, I am quite happy with the support I get from my brand. We go to training three times a year.

Faye: Thank you very much. And you?

Laura: I am not really at work enough to make a judgement. I do everything through my manager Tanya and I have a good relationship with her. But its only two of us on the counter so I would like expect that of us.

Faye: Ok, thanks.

Fareeda: YSL try to keep us as informed as possible about new products and product knowledge. That’s really important for them and I like it too.

Faye: Brill, cheers.

Leanne: Not really. I have a new area manager who isn’t as good as the one before. The training is good though, but they bring out so many new products on Clinique that I struggle to remember everything. I find it a bit overwhelming.

Faye: Ok then, and lastly Ellie?

Ellie: Yes there’s always someone to speak to at Urban Decay and they are always interested in what we have to say. That’s really important to me. It’s more like a dialogue then.

Faye: Ok this is all really really good and is going to help me out quite a lot. Next I’d like to know what you most and least enjoy about your jobs?

Toni: I love working with the girls on my counter and I love it when we make our targets. Such a sense of satisfaction. The thing I least enjoy would probably was Daisy said earlier. I really don’t like having to sell House of Fraser MasterCards.

Faye: Fab. Ok next?

Jess: My favourite part of my job is when you make someone feel better about themselves and you make their day. I don’t like store politics. I have found there is a lot of bitching and judgement from other counter managers.

Faye: Interesting. Right then, Kristie?

Kristie: I like getting to meet lots of people. Like its lots of talking and getting to know people. I don’t like my wage in all honesty. I get paid an absolute pittance. Is that the right word? I don’t know.

Faye: Yeah well I think everyone identifies with that. And Daisy, how about you?

Daisy: I hate the amount of paperwork I have to do but I love the fact that I get free products all the time.

Faye: Fair enough. And you Becki?

Becki: I love working with an amazing, hard-working team and the company as a whole is very interactive and they great communication across all levels of the management. I don’t enjoy the politics between store and concessions, like having to meet the needs of both. By that I mean disagreements about things like recruitment, and grooming and promotional site appearances

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Faye: Ok that’s really good. Thanks Becki. And you Frieda.

Frieda: Thing things I enjoy about my job was making a difference to someone’s skin, especially when they came back to the counter time and time again to show me the changes. I don’t feel as though there are many opportunities to progress now though. I think I may have gone as far as I can with Lauder.

Faye: That’s interesting to hear. Ok Laura?

Laura: I really like it when you’re hitting targets and also when you really help a customer find everything they need and you build that loyalty and they return to you and you only. I really really like that. I don’t like the targets I receive though as I find them unrealistic for my part time hours.

Fareeda: I really enjoy feeling like a makeup artist. I don’t like House of Fraser though. I want to go to John Lewis when it opens next year. You get treated much better there and there are far more perks to working there.

Faye: Fab. Ok next?

Leanne: I really enjoy meetings people and helping to get them to be confident with makeup. I don’t like having to meet targets, I wish I could just work without them. I wouldn’t even be bothered about not getting commission.

Ellie: For me it’s all about being able to play with products, staff discount and the freebies I get from Urban Decay. I don’t enjoy having to work lates in House of Fraser, they seem to be getting later and later. And also I never seem to be able to take my days off together which I would like to do every now and again.

Faye: This is going really well. Ok thank you so much girlies. Only a couple more things now and this is only if you have something to say. We won’t have to go round in a circle now. Just whoever would like to contribute please feel free. Ok firstly I want to explain a bit more what I am interested in. I am interested in how a counter is put together in terms of layout, merchandising, testers, all those sorts of things. I am also interested in how consumers actually physically interact with the counter. Do they only walk a certain way around a counter or do they gravitate towards a certain area of the counter?

Kristie: Lauder could do with more space for makeovers and could use some updating.The counter looks quite dated.

Faye: Fantastic start, thanks. Anybody else?

Becki: Beauty counters in Guerlain are usually designed with makeup at the front, to attract customers and are more impulse purchases based. Fragrance in the centre, maybe out of a walkway as browsing fragrance can take a bit longer and it allows the customer to interact and keeps them on the counter longer. This means it gives consultant the time needed to make extra sales I find. Skincare is more personal that usually requires specialist advice therefore is always situated near a consultation zone, where clients can take a seat and be tempted with mini facial or treatment. So its normally make up at the front, then fragrance then a skincare bar with seating for a more private moment with the customer.

Faye: Becki that’s amazing, so much detail is going to be fantastic for me and will really inform my research project.

Ellie: Well we have a TV which attracts a lot of attention, also we are bright purple which is quite eye-catching I guess.

Daisy: I think attractive posters, lights and well-known models like Emma Watson attracts many customers of our customers and the idea of it being more like a home than a “shop”. The idea of taking a seat and having a bit of pamper time makes a difference to a woman and also they like to have free bits! Anything advertising a few free things always works in terms of visual merchandising collateral.

Faye: Brilliant. Anyone else got anything that might help me?

Jess: In my experience generally the spaces on counters are rarely designed to support the worker, merely to merchandise. This is difficult when doing make overs and consultations.

Frieda: For me I would like a more private area for consultations but the selling area to be more open. I think customers are unsettled by having consultations in the open when busy.

Faye: Fantastic. Anything else? Ok, well very final thing. Is there anything you’d like to talk about on your counters? Anything at all you can think of that you want to talk about.

Daisy: I feel at the moment Lancome seems to steering away from being a luxury brand towards more fast and quick methods, which doesn’t give us the freedom to connect and satisfy our customers and for us to enjoy our job .

Toni: I really like our computerised counter system. It makes the job so much easier and it also gives me the opportunity to really build up customer relationships.

Jess: I am so jealous of you cos we don’t have OCT on our counter.

Toni: Well hopefully you’ll be getting it soon. We had five computers when we opened the store but this Summer they took two away to go to another counter who didn’t have them. So many they will do the same with you.

Kristie: I’m really jealous of you too. Lauder really need to update their file card system. Its just not practical.

Frieda: I agree.

Daisy: Yeah Lancome are the same, I think they need to update the file card registry.

Jess: When I worked for Benefit I thought there needed to be more support from head office in regards to training. The bigger brands have a lot better training and courses than Benefit but I expect alot of it comes down to finance. Clinique is a much bigger brand so they can probably afford to train their staff much better than Benefit.

Becki: Well going back to counter layouts. Products should be very tactually placed like skincare next to the makeover zone therefore the consultant can easily link sell between the two. New Fragrance by the till point so they are tempted to try before completing their purchase. Even small details like having nail varnish next to lipsticks, eyeliners next to mascara and powders next to foundation all help capitalise on the customer buying needs. Just small things like that really that only really involve small rearrangements on coutner.

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Faye: That’s perfect Becki. Anyone else?

Frieda: The last thing I’d say would be to update the product packing, looks a bit dated and I think it makes young girls not want to buy the products. They don’t look as good in a makeup bag as other makeup brands.

Faye: Good. Anyone else? Ok, well this has been hugely informative. Please feel free to take those sheets I made up about the focus group and my project if you want to. I just need a signature and four ticks from you on these sheets. I have already filled out your names. Thank you so much once again ladies.

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10. APPENDIX C: INTERVIEW

Interview: James Waite, Account Manager for Lancome, John Lewis House of Fraser Date: 5th January 2013 Interviewer: Faye Wilkinson

Interviewer: Hello there, would you mind just having a quick chat with me about your counter?

Interviewee: Um yes sure. I’m not busy at the mo.

Interviewer: Brilliant thank you. Ok well I’m Faye and I’m a student in my third year at University. I am doing my dissertation on beauty counters because they are of special interest to me. I am particularly interested in their role within the industry and their importance to the brand and the consumer.

Interviewee: Ok. Interviewer: Yes well. I want to talk to you about the layout of the counter and how consumers interact with it Interviewee: Oh right.

Interviewer: Well I know you had a complete revamp in here last Summer didn’t you. How do you feel about the new layout of the beauty hall and the layout of your counter. Your counter mostly.

Interviewee: Ok. Well I think the refurb was good. It was needed. It was really dated in here. With all the premium stores in this central area of London its massively competitive. Here we needed to have it all redone in order to compete with the other stores round here.

Interviewer: Fantastic. And do you think its made a difference to the amount of people shopping here?

Interviewee: Yeah it definitely seemed a lot busier. We have just had Christmas though so I don’t know if that’s sort of in my mind right now or not.

Interviewer: Fab. And what do you think of the layout on Lancome here in particular?

Interviewee: I am not thrilled about it in all honesty. We didn’t get to have an input, and being account manager I thought the area manager might ask me what I thought at least. But no. Anyway we are enclosed by three walls which I really think puts people off. It feels like a box in here. And also because the counter at the front is pretty tall which also puts people off. You see so many people walk past whilst looking at the counter. They feel intimidated to go into the counter, its your territory not theirs. Also the problem is where to stand. If you stand in their way at the entrance of the counter then nobody will ever walk in and have a look around. It difficult to get the right balance really.

Interviewer: Ok no that’s really good. I need your honest opinions on everything, good and bad. What do you think about where different types of products on the counter. Like the makeup being there and the skincare over there.

Interviewee: I think they’ve shot themselves in the foot really. Basically people are interested mostly in makeup, the colours are eye-catching and what draw people into counter. I don’t know why John Lewis put the makeup stands at the back where we do the consultations. It means that if someone is doing a makeover, you have to squeeze past them all the time to be able to get testers and products to show other people. It’s a bit stupid really. This counter here at the front has our seasonal colours on it and when they sell out they sell out so it looks bad to people walking past. I just am not a big fan of the way they’ve done it.

Interviewer: Is there anything in particular you think the designers have done well?

Interviewee: Um. Let me think. I think the skin care being over on the left side on its own a bit separate is good. The skincare is the most premium product we do and so I think its only right that its over there a bit away. Other than that, I don’t think there’s anything else particularly good or bad about this counter.

Interviewer: Thank you so much. One more thing whilst I think of it. Is there any patterns that you can see in how customers interact physically with the counter? Like do they always come in through here and then walk over to the skin care or anything like that? Or just any behavioural similarities between consumers?

Interviewee: That’s hard. I need a moment to think about that. I think normally most people wander in and go to the left cos its more open and then if there’s no one about they move over to the makeup bars. That’s normal I think. In terms of similar things about them all, they all love a free sample. And they can normally be persuaded to increase their number of items being sold with a free gift. People can get very uncomfortable having their makeup taken off. But I don’t know if that’s cos I am a man and it makes them more self-conscious. Yeah. Anyway, I think that’s it. I should probably go do some work now.

Interviewer: Ok thanks, if I can just get you to help me fill out this sheet and then I will leave you be. Thank you so much for your help.

Interviewee: No problem, good luck!

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