Falls Church Fall Food 2019 by Falls Church News-Press

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presents

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SEPTEMBER 12 – 18, 2019 | PAGE 13

Fall 2019 Food & Dining Special

since our daughter was two at the time, but Katherine had always been obsessed with food and all she wanted was a way to cook when she was 13. After college she moved to Seattle and tried the whole dotcom thing, then decided she wanted to go to culinary school. She went to the Culinary Institute of America where — even though she’s embarrassed to admit it — she graduated top of her class, which was a goal of hers inspired by Alfred Portale, who did the same. She moved to NYC, got a job at Per Se as a food runner, worked at Del Posto for a while, couple of wine stores and cooked food for events. We met after a few years from that, she helped get me the job at Dell’anima’s because she knew the guys opening it.

THOMPSON ITALIAN CHEF Gabe Thompson sat down with the News-Press to talk about his new venture, his history in the food industry and why he and his team chose the Little City as the location for their new restaurant. (Courtesy photo)

Gabe Thompson Dishes on His New F.C. Restaurant & Why It’s Not Exactly Italian by Matt Delaney

Falls Church News-Press

The opening of Thompson Italian last month has left Falls Church buzzing about the new modern eatery. While the restaurant’s new take on Italian food, in owner and executive chef Gabe Thompson’s own admission, remains a sore spot to some that long for the rustic vibes of 124 N. Washington Streets old inhabitant, Argia’s, you couldn’t tell once inside. A steady stream of patrons make their way to the dining room or rear patio with the cacophony of kitchen sounds never quieting down during business hours. Not bad for a chef who cut his teeth in Texas, Oregon and New York before returning to his wife Katherine’s home in the

Washington D.C. area in 2016. Falls Church can count itself as fortunate that the busy (and expensive) New York City lifestyle caused the family to move down south. Thompson brings with him some tricks of the trade he learned about upscale dining in Manhattan to an accessible, neighborhood level in the D.C. suburbs. He’s managed to do just that — though don’t assume you’ll only get Italian dishes at this restaurant (we’ll let Thompson explain). Thompson shared some time with the News-Press to elaborate on what people can expect with the menu, his impressions of Falls Church so far and what challenges the restaurant is still overcoming. Can you give me your and Katherine’s respective culinary backgrounds?

Baddpizza Coming to F.C.

Tired of this area’s pizza-and-wing selection, a Buffalo, New York native is bringing his hometown’s specialties to the Little City this November.

Page 18

I started out in a bunch of restaurants in Austin, Texas until I finally moved to Portland, Oregon. One of my more powerful experiences in Portland was working at a place called Clarklewis — it changed the way I cooked, how I approached food and how I tasted it. It serves Italian food, but in an American-y, Italian fashion. I then moved to New York City in 2003, worked, at various Italian restaurants before opening up Dell’Anima. From there I started a small restaurant group with some marketers and we opened three restaurants and a wine bar. Katherine is from here. She grew up in Arlington and went to [the College of] William & Mary. I’d been pestering her for years about getting our own restaurant, and started almost immediately after moving here in 2016. She was pretty against it

After Mad Fox

A look at Falls Church’s craft beer trailblazer and how the ensuing wave of area breweries ultimately led to its downfall.

Page 19

Growing up in Texas, with a lot of TexMex food making up the culinary scene, how did you land on Italian as your restaurant’s cuisine? Well, side note — opening a Tex-Mex restaurant is my dream. Was chatting about that with someone when we were putting together the concept for this place and they asked “Why wouldn’t you do the Tex-Mex thing?” and I said “I’d never done it as a restaurant before, so I’d like to do something first that I know instead of launch into something that I’d never had a service of before.” I think it was that experience at Clarklewis that really did it for me. It was amazing because it wasn’t really an Italian restaurant — you know, lasagna and meatballs, not super off-the-boat Italian. It was respecting the ideas of Italian cuisine but using the ingredients you had around you and making your own pasta and or maybe getting a pig and breaking it down, doing a sauce with it, different things like that. I thought that this could be Italian food, or could influence a philosophy of cooking more than anything. What made you want to come to Falls Church? We didn’t want to be in D.C. We wanted to be in this area, because we live in Arlington and our kids go to school there. We knew we weren’t going to do that at a restaurant in D.C. I was never going to see the kids and Katherine wouldn’t be as involved at the restaurant, so it just made sense to do it in this area. When we looked at Arlington, there was nothing available that fit what we were looking for. Someone said “Why don’t you look in Falls Church,

Continued on Page 20

Also Inside: • The Little City’s Sauce Guru Returns • Taste of Falls Church Lineup & Menu • ‘Taste’ Judge Q&A’s

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PAGE 14 | SEPTEMBER 12 – 18, 2019

FALLS CHURCH NEWS-PRESS | FCNP.COM

Taste of Falls Church Menu Selections

Famille at The Kensington (R 1) • Butternut Squash Soup (V) = 1 ticket • Salmon BLT = 2 tickets • The Reuben = 2 tickets • Iced Coffee = 1 ticket Sweet Rice Thai Restaurant (R 2) • Spring Roll (V) = 1 ticket • Spicy Wing Zabb = 1 ticket • Larb Gai = 1 ticket • Pad Thai Tofu (V) = 2 tickets • Panang Chicken = 2 tickets • Spicy Kee Mao Minced Chicken = 2 tickets • Black Sticky Rice w/Mango (V) = 2 tickets El Patron Bar & Grill (R 3) • Chicken Taco = 1 ticket • Pork Taco = 1 ticket • Cheese Pupusa (V) = 1 ticket • Pork Pupusa = 1 ticket Open Road Grill (R 4) • Short Rib Sliders (with bourbon sauce and Carolina slaw) = 1 ticket V = Vegetarian Menu Option R = Restaurant Booth

Clare & Don’s / Lazy Mike’s (R 9) • Corned Beef Hash with Egg = 2 tickets • Vegan Chicken Salad Croissant = 2 tickets • Grilled Kosher Dog with Chili Cheese = 2 tickets • Plain Kids Dog = 1 ticket • Scoop of Ice Cream = 1 ticket Dogwood Tavern (R 11) • Grilled Wings (2) = 1 ticket • Jambalaya = 1 ticket • Mac & Cheese (V) = 1 ticket • Bottled Spring Water = 1 ticket Bakeshop (R 12) • Cupcake (regular or vegan) (V) = 1 ticket • Cookie (regular or vegan) (V) = 1 ticket • Macaron (V) = 1 ticket Café Kindred (R 13) • “Steak & Eggs” (beef Bourguignon stew with sunny side egg) = 1 ticket • Fried Chicken Curry Waffles = 1 ticket • Vegetable Vol au Vent (V) = 1 ticket

1 ticket = $3 10 tickets = $25

Authentic Egyptian Food

Robeks Smoothies & Juices (R 5) • Strawnanberry Smoothie (V) = 2 tickets • Mahalo Mango Smoothie (V) = 2 tickets • Trop-Kale Smoothie (V) = 2 tickets Hot N’ Juicy Crawfish (R 6) • Crawfish Po‘Boy = 2 tickets • Crispy Pork Skins = 1 ticket • Fried Brownies (4 piece) = 1 ticket Taco Bamba (R 7) • Beef Barbacoa Tacos = 2 tickets • Chicken Tinga Tacos = 2 tickets • Spicy Mushroom Tacos (V) = 2 tickets Rare Bird Coffee Roasters (R 8) • Coffee (Iced or Hot) = 1 ticket • Iced Tea = 1 ticket • Latte, Vanilla Latte, or Mocha = 2 tickets • Zucchini Walnut Bread = 1 ticket • Two Doughnut Holes = 1 ticket

Liberty Barbecue (R 14) • Brisket Sandwich = 3 tickets • Pulled Pork Sandwich = 3 tickets • Cole Slaw = 2 tickets • Potato Salad = 1 ticket • Iced Tea = 1 ticket • Lemonade = 1 ticket • Water bottle = 1 ticket Peet’s Coffee (R 15) • Hot Brew Drip Coffee = 1 ticket • Cold Brew Ice Coffee = 1 ticket • Iced Wild Berry Hibiscus Tea = 1 ticket FC Distillers (BG 1) • 4” Meatball Hoagie = 1 ticket • 4” Sausage, Pepper and Onion Hoagie = 1 ticket

Vote for Your #FCFestival Favorite! Follow the QR code or go to fallschurchva.gov/Festival to vote for your favorite Taste of Falls Church! Voting closes 4 p.m.

Come visit the doctors at our Fall Festival Booth!

Dr. Mindy Nasuti

www.favapot.com • (703) 204-0609 7393 D Lee highway Suite D. Falls Church VA 22042 Awarded By: Foot Network • Washington Post • Washingtonian • Arlington Magazine • Northern Virginia Magazine

facebook.com/FavaPot • instagram.com/favapot • twitter.com/FavaPot

No appointment necessary. No sickness necessary either.

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FALLS CHURCH NEWS-PRESS | FCNP.COM

SEPTEMBER 12 - 18, 2019 | PAGE 15

Cherry Hill Playground

Park Avenue

Fair Rides

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ROCK STAR Realty Beer Garden

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Community Center

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Tickets can be purchased by Credit Card inside the Community Center. The outdoor Ticket Booths are Cash Only.

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City Hall

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Tickets 13 8 R S

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Rose Garden

Ride Tickets

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Tours 10am-2pm

MoBu Kids 64 Children’s 62 - 1 1 Tent

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Park Avenue

Cherry Hill Farm House

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Pony Rides

Pavilion

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Civic Booths, Crafters, & Local Merchants

Sponsors Falls Church News-Press --------------Kitchen Saver -----------------------------Burke & Herbert Bank--------------------Power Home Remodeling--------------Goldfish Swim School ------------------The Little Gym ----------------------------LeafFilter ----------------------------------Cabot Creamery Co-Operative -------MoBu Kids - Children’s Tent -----------Galley Foods ------------------------------Bull Run Financial Group --------------Renewal by Andersen ------------------ROCK STAR Realty Beer Garden ----

Restaurants Famille at The Kensington -------------Sweet Rice Thai---------------------------El Patron Bar & Grill ---------------------Open Road Grill---------------------------Robeks Smoothies and Juices -------Hot N Juicy Crawfish---------------------Taco Bamba Tacqueria -----------------Rare Bird Coffee Roasters ------------Clare and Don’s / Lazy Mike’s --------Dogwood Tavern -------------------------Bakeshop ----------------------------------Café Kindred-------------------------------Liberty Barbecue--------------------------Peet’s Coffee -----------------------------FC Distillers -------------------------------Audacious Aleworks ----------------------

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R1 R2 R3 R4 R5 R6 R7 R8 R9 R11 R12 R13 R14 R15 BG1 BG2

Temalle LTD ------------------------------------Falls Church Arts -----------------------------Mary Riley Styles Public Library -----------Your House Paintings & Notecards---------Concerned Citizens Against Gun Violence McCollam Sales -------------------------------Friends of Laura Downs ---------------------Amazing Crystals -----------------------------Falls Church Modern Dentistry -------------Capital Area Pediatrics -----------------------Empower Chiropractic -----------------------World Children’s Choir------------------------Friends of Falls Church Homeless Shelter-The Kensington Falls Church----------------Welcoming Falls Church ---------------------The State Theatre -----------------------------George Mason HS Robotics Team ----------Virginia Energy Sense ------------------------The Dough Jar ---------------------------------Pink Buggy Designs --------------------------The Bathing Raven Candle Co. --------------Falls Church Democratic Committee-------League of Women Voters --------------------LaCigale Studio--------------------------------Earrings with Flair ----------------------------Citizens for a Better City (CBC) -------------Douglass Stevens for School Board--------Code Ninjas ------------------------------------Allure Silver Jewelry --------------------------OneVirginia 2021-------------------------------Lula Roe ----------------------------------------Falls Church VPIS ------------------------------

100 101 102 103 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132

Tom Dolan Swim School ---------------You Are Polished - Color Street ------BalletNova Center for Dance ----------Reinvented Elegance --------------------Falls Church Chamber of CommerceThe Spicy Spouse ------------------------Advantage Trainers ----------------------Bedazzled ----------------------------------Roots of Development -----------------American Books and Carpets --------My Soap Bar--------------------------------Mak Imports--------------------------------True Honey Teas -------------------------Rotary Club of Baileys Crossroads --The Sycamore School -------------------Art of Problem Solving Academy -----Title Boxing Club--------------------------NOVA Spine and Rehab Center-------Falls Church Education Foundation--Family Medicine in Falls Church -----Falun Dafa Association of DC ---------Baha’is of Falls Church -----------------Falls Church Area AAUW --------------Summi Henna -----------------------------Aroma DC Candles ----------------------Bababowtique by Teresa ---------------Crochet by Naha -------------------------Loco Lights and Bubbles ---------------S & S Handcrafts -------------------------Congressional School ------------------Falls Green --------------------------------Lucid Arts -----------------------------------Cyclebar -------------------------------------

133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165

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FALLS CHURCH NEWS-PRESS | FCNP.COM

Judges Talk F.C. Favorites, Eating Out vs. At Home & More

This year’s Taste of Falls Church judges weighed in on everything from potluck dishes to food & entertainment combos with the News-Press

Nader Baroukh, Former City of Falls Church Mayor 1. Do you have any special methods to prepare for being a Taste of Falls Church judge? I may try to go on a long walk to work up a healthy appetite. I may also bring some friends with me to help with the tasting. 2. What’s your favorite restaurant that has opened in Falls Church in the past five years? I love them all. 3. Who’s your favorite celebrity chef or cook? Ming Tsai. Great at incorporating western and eastern cooking. 4. If you could have one dish prepared by one person, who and what would it be? My wife has promised to make me Julia Child’s Beef Bourguignon for years. 5. If you had to prepare one dish for a potluck, what would it be? I can’t cook. So, a green salad. 6. How often do you eat at home versus how often do you eat out? We eat out a lot 7. Are leftovers a cost-saving necessity or an under-appreciated delicacy? I am not a fan of leftovers. So, a cost-saving necessity. 10. Wine, beer or cocktail with a meal? Wine 11. What cut and temperature do you like your steak? Porterhouse medium rare. Unless I am sharing with my daughter...so medium. 10. What’s the best entertainment you’ve experienced to go with dining? Seeing Bruce Springsteen live in concert with any food they have.

Cecily Shea, President of the Falls Church Education Foundation 1. Do you have any special methods to prepare for being a Taste of Falls Church judge? I started working out with Eliot at Advantage Fitness I’m hoping that this helps me! 2. What’s your favorite restaurant that has opened in Falls Church in the past five years? Love the vibe at Northside Social and the fried chicken at Liberty Barbecue is great! 3. Who’s your favorite celebrity chef or cook? Ina Garten. 4. If you could have one dish prepared by one person, who and what would it be? Anything from Johnny Spero at Reverie in Georgetown 5. If you had to prepare one dish for a potluck, what would it be? Bejeweled rice — rice with cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, red pepper flakes and orange zest, topped with cooked carrots, pistachios, almonds and golden raisins 6. How often do you eat at home versus how often do you eat out? I eat out for lunch more than I should... 7. Are leftovers a cost-saving necessity or an under-appreciated delicacy? Nope. I don’t like leftovers. 8. Wine, beer or cocktail with a meal? Wine. 9. What cut and temperature do you like your steak? New York Strip. Medium rare. 10. What’s the best entertainment you’ve experienced to go with dining? Best entertainment is dinners we host in our home with friends.

David Tarter, City of Falls Church Mayor 1. Do you have any special methods to prepare for being a Taste of Falls Church judge? To cleanse my palate of anything edible, I have been eating my own cooking.

Debbie Hiscott, Executive Director of the Falls Church Education Foundation

Jason Tepper, VP of Culinary, Executive Chef

1. Do you have any special methods to prepare for being a Taste of Falls Church judge? Lots of miles on the City trails to build up a calorie deficit.

1. Do you have any special methods to prepare for being a Taste of Falls Church judge? I’m coming hungry and want to taste the best that Falls Church has to offer.

2. What’s your favorite restaurant that has opened in Falls Church in the past five years? What kind of mayor would I be if I didn’t find them all great?!

2. What’s your favorite restaurant that has opened in Falls Church in the past five years? Thompson Italian.

2. What’s your favorite restaurant that has opened in Falls Church in the past five years? China Chicano by Jose Andres.

3. Who’s your favorite celebrity chef or cook? Does Mama Celeste count?

3. Who’s your favorite celebrity chef or cook? Alex Guarneschelli — she’s savvy while still valuing American and international classics!

3. Who’s your favorite celebrity chef or cook? Patrick O’Connell, Inn at Little Washington.

4. If you could have one dish prepared by one person, who and what would it be? Probably my aunt’s Hot Browns. – an open-faced sandwich of turkey and bacon, covered in a cheese sauce that’s baked. 5. If you had to prepare one dish for a potluck, what would it be? As mayor, I frequently end up eating my words, so alphabet soup. 6. How often do you eat at home versus how often do you eat out? I mostly eat at home. 7. Are leftovers a cost-saving necessity or an under-appreciated delicacy? I love leftovers. 8. Wine, beer or cocktail with a meal? Hardest thing I drink is milk. 9. What cut and temperature do you like your steak? Everything is better barbequed! 10. What’s the best entertainment you’ve experienced to go with dining? My boys and I trekked our way, slice by slice, through New York City. We walked 16 miles and had some great pizza and some great fun.

4. If you could have one dish prepared by one person, who and what would it be? My mother’s chicken enchiladas. 5. If you had to prepare one dish for a potluck, what would it be? “Debbie’s Dip” — corn, jalapeno and not-so-healthy ingredients appetizer. 6. How often do you eat at home versus how often do you eat out? I walk to lunch from work in the City and usually eat dinner at home. 7. Are leftovers a cost-saving necessity or an under-appreciated delicacy? Leftovers only under duress. 8. Wine, beer or cocktail with a meal? Cocktails once a weekend 9. What cut and temperature do you like your steak? Filet mignon, rare. 10. What’s the best entertainment you’ve experienced to go with dining? I loved eating Liberty Barbecue al fresco and listening to Sister Sparrow at the Tinner Hill Music Festival.

4. If you could have one dish prepared by one person, who and what would it be? My Mother’s mother (my Nanny) made incredible brisket with plenty of burnt ends, carrots and onions roasted perfectly. 5. If you had to prepare one dish for a potluck, what would it be? Smoked (then roasted and sauced) Buffalo chicken wings. 6. How often do you eat at home versus how often do you eat out? 70 home/30 out. 7. Are leftovers a cost-saving necessity or an under-appreciated delicacy? Under appreciated delicacy 8. Wine, beer or cocktail with a meal? Whatever my wife chooses. (She’s the best bartender) 9. What cut and temperature do you like your steak? Tomahawk Ribeye/ rare. 10. What’s the best entertainment you’ve experienced to go with dining? Dinner at Blues Alley in Georgetown while Jamaican Jazz Pianist Monte Alexander and his wife, Italian jazz singer Caterina Zapponi performed.

FALLS CHURCH NEWS-PRESS | FCNP.COM

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DISTURBINGLY DELICIOUS FOODS owner Dave Forbes at the tap of his vegetable-based soda, Veggie Pop, in his new shop on S. Maple Ave. in the City of Falls Church. (P��: J�� F��)

Veggie Sauce Guru Returns With Disturbingly Delicious BY JODY FELLOWS

FALLS CHURCH NEWS-PRESS

Last summer, Dave Forbes opened up a pop-up shop on West St. selling an assortment of vegetable-based sauces on a lark. “My goal was to fill my garage with sauces,” he says of his venture, Monkeyboy Consumables, which was forced to close last November to make way for the upcoming Founders Row development. Forbes, who admits he never really liked retail, knew the popup was only temporary and he

wanted to have fun with it. And he confirms he did indeed meet his goal of a sauce-filled garage. But now Forbes and his sauces are back with a new location, a new name and a new attitude. “This is me taking it seriously,” he says of his latest operation dubbed Disturbingly Delicious Foods, now open in 570 sq. ft. of space at The Lincoln at Tinner Hill. Equipped with a three-year lease, Forbes says he’s more focused this go-round and learned some things from his first foray. “I’ve tweaked the operation a little

bit,” he says as he shows off a new industrial blending machine he uses to make his signature sauces like the kale-ketchup hybrid Kalechup, and the mayonnaise substitute Mayonot. “I’ve ironed out the process, workflow and technique.” During his time without a storefront, Forbes made 38 new product flavors over the winter. “It’s experimental. I make them just to see what I can do.” Most of Forbe’s sauces have a base of kale, cauliflower or cabbage, which he then builds on to create something new. There’s a cauliflower-based tar-

SEPTEMBER 12 – 18, 2019 | PAGE 17

tar sauce with vinegar, cucumber and horseradish; a mole sauce made up of cabbage, porter beer, vinegar, plantains, onions and a host of spices; and a smoked spicy strawberry sauce made with tequila. There’s even a vegan queso alternative that was born from a contest when a customer asked Forbes to make his own version of Taco Bell’s lava sauce. “My goal is to recreate traditional flavors but make them healthier,” he says. Forbes divides his customer base into three main types: 1) the health conscious who use his sauces because they’re low in calories, carbs, sodium and fat; 2) those on specialized diets but want to add flavor to their meals; and 3) those who just love sauce. When he’s not in the food lab, Forbes runs a software consulting business which he can be seen tending to from time to time at his shop on S. Maple Ave. In fact, his experience in IT, designing systems and data visualizations, he says helps tremendously in the sauce-creation process. “Food is no different [from system design]. You have a limited data set [ingredients] and your variables like color, flavor and lethality,” says Forbes. “The question is how to make a set of ingredients taste like ‘X’.” Forbes searches the internet to research different flavor profiles which he then uses to develop formulas for his products. It’s how he created a satay sauce that nixes the peanuts and instead uses sesame and pumpkin seeds to recreate the traditional flavor, and a tomatoless marinara sauce made with cabbage, vinegar, beets, carrots, onions, figs, garlic and spices. “I’m a non-traditional traditionalist,” he says before quickly adding, “Well, I’m also a nontraditional non-traditionalist, too.” Another source of inspiration for Forbes, the book “The Flavor

Matrix: The Art and Science of Pairing Common Ingredients to Create Extraordinary Dishes,” which uses numbers crunched by big data to find flavors that chemically pair well together. It’s helped him in sauce creation but also with developing flavors for a brand of artisanal sodas. For sale by bottle or on draft at the shop, Veggie Pop is another one of Forbe’s creations, available in unique flavors like tangerine basil, soursop elderberry and fig habanero. And at 60 calories per 12 oz., it’s, again, a healthier alternative to mainstream options. Alongside its own products, Disturbingly Delicious also carries an assortment of locallysourced foods including meats, cheeses, ice cream, produce and eggs. Forbes, a weekly participant in the Falls Church farmers market, says his most popular items are Georgetown-based Stachowski’s sausages and pies from Arlington’s Acme Pie Co., and compares his store’s offerings to items one might find at the City’s Saturday morning event. “Last summer, I didn’t really care about retail,” he says, “Now, I care about carrying what people want.” Forbes also hopes to collaborate in the future, too, making sauces with local businesses and non-profits or for events like weddings. “I’d love to custom-make sauces.” As for his lineup at the store, it shows no signs of slowing. Forbes showed off several concoctions currently in development in the back of his shop and if anybody has any suggestions, he’s always up for a challenge. “I can make cauliflower or cabbage taste like anything,” he says. “For me, it’s fun to make sauce.” Disturbingly Delicious Foods (455H S. Maple Ave., Falls Church) is open from 11 a.m. – 6 p.m., Tuesday – Thursday and on Saturday from 1 – 4 p.m.

Got Lunch? OPHRESTAURANTS.COM 7395 Lee Highway 703-698-6292

PAGE 18 | SEPTEMBER 12 – 18, 2019

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Buffalo-Style ‘Cup & Char’ Pepperoni Pizza, Wings Coming to Falls Church by Jody Fellows

Falls Church News-Press

Buffalo, New York native Joel Salamone isn’t a big fan of the pizza around this area. And that’s putting it mildly. “I don’t like the pizza here, not at all,” he tells the News-Press. And finding a place that serves both good pizza and good wings? Forget about it. “It’s near impossible outside of Buffalo,” Salamone laments. Fed up with the lack of options, the man, who hails from the city that invented the chicken wing as we know it today, is bringing his hometown specialty, along with Buffalostyle pizza, to the Little City when Baddpizza (stylized “baddpizza”) opens in the Broadale Village Shopping Center this November. Since moving to Northern Virginia in 1999, Salamone has long missed the pies he grew up eating in upstate New York where he says he and his family would order pizza-and-wing combos at least once a week. “Here, my son will say ‘Let’s order pizza from Papa John’s’ and I’m like “No,’ ” he laughs. And Salamone insists it’s not just hometown bias. “Over the past 20 years,” he says, “I’ve rarely encountered someone who tells me the name of a restaurant that offers pizza they absolutely love.” Even if he does find a passable option, Salamone says it can’t compare to Buffalo’s regional style. “It’s not thick crust like Chicago or thin like New York,” he describes. “It’s in between the two, with a sweeter sauce and toppings to the edges.” The most iconic of those toppings is what’s known as “cupand-char pepperoni,” and it’s the trademark of a true Buffalo-style pie. Using slices smaller than the typical silver dollar-sized circles, cup-and-char pepperoni curl up at the edges to form small, greasefilled ‘roni cups which get charred around the top during cooking. Salamone says it’s the best pizza he’s ever eaten. The menu at the upcoming Baddpizza will be simple, and alongside the pies and authentic Buffalo wings (“Always cooked correctly — crispy”), Salamone says they’ll serve salads and subs. The pizza will also be big. Real big.

With 18-inch round and party sheet (18”x26”) options, the circular pies will be on par with Flippin’ Pizza’s offerings and outsize both the larges (14”) and XLs (16”) at Domino’s, Paisano’s, Papa John’s and Pizza Hut. While he’s been involved with a host of businesses (IT, real estate development, the oil and gas industry, among others) Salamone has no experience in the restaurant biz. So, in order to facilitate the infusion of upstate N.Y.-style pizzaand-wings into Northern Virginia, he’s bringing his longtime friend, Steve Houck, to town. Known as “Stevie Badd,” Houck is the namesake behind the concept as well as a 25-year veteran of one of Buffalo’s most iconic pizza-andwing joints. With his brotherin-law and Houck, Salamone and a small team of others are working to open three Baddpizza locations concurrently, with additional stores in McLean and South Riding. The Falls Church location, taking over the former Potomac Cleaners’ space (346 W. Broad) next to Starbucks, will be primarily a takeout-and-delivery operation, with eight counter seats available for dine-in eating. Near the end of this month, Salamone plans to relaunch Baddpizza’s website and market the restaurant at the New York State Society of Washington, D.C’s “Buffalo Nite,” an annual downtown celebration of all things Buffalo set for Sept. 25. “Nobody loves their pizza here,” says Salamone. But when Baddpizza opens later this November, he hopes that sentiment will change. A PROTOTYPE of the kind of Buffalo, New York-style “cup-and-char” pepperoni pies Baddpizza will serve when it opens in Falls Church later this year. (Photo: Baddpizza)

FALLS CHURCH NEWS-PRESS | FCNP.COM

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Trailblazer Mad Fox Casualty Of Area’s Craft Brew Success by Matt Delaney

Falls Church News-Press

Mad Fox Brewing Company knows better than most how bittersweet being a victim of its own success is. The brewpub was the tip of the craft beer spear regionally in 2010, but closed for good in July due to increased competition both in the industry and locally in the City of Falls Church in large part because of the innovation it ushered in. “Thank God for Bill Madden. He was the pioneer,” Frank Kuhns, owner of Settle Down Easy Brewing Company just outside City limits, said. “If it wasn’t for [Mad Fox owner] Bill [Madden] doing what we did, guys like Caboose [Brewing Company] and the rest of us wouldn’t be able to open up.” “Yeah, we were pioneers,” Madden told the News-Press separately, and in a more subdued manner. “We were on top of the next craft brew wave, building a brewery before anyone was thinking about it. Most who were around had been for a while, such as Gordon Biersch and Legends Brewing Co. We were one of the only breweries opening up at that time.” Heading into the 21st century’s second decade, breweries and Virginia were on icy terms. According to the Commonwealth of Virginia, only 40 breweries were in operation by 2012. And few of those were in major metropolitan areas. It’s what made Mad Fox’s foray into the brewpub model — which was Madden’s specialty after working in Washington, D.C.’s Capitol City Brewing Co., among others, throughout his 25 career — so daring. That bravery was rewarded by customers coming from the far reaches of D.C.’s ecosystem out in Centreville or Reston for weekend visits to Mad Fox. But 2012 was also the turning point for breweries. The passage of SB 604 allowed breweries to serve their own beer on-site as well as sell them at retail locations in closed containers. Prior to that, establishments that brewed their own beer weren’t allowed to serve a pint unless there was a food component involved, according to Madden.

What followed was a 468-percent explosion in breweries statewide from 2012 to 2016, with more than 200 breweries operating throughout Virginia. Other inhibitors to opening breweries started to come down from there. “Brewery licensing has changed dramatically in the last 20 years,” Brian Reinoehl, a partner at the City’s microbrewery Audacious Aleworks said. “To get a brewery license used to cost somewhere around five-figures, and then it dropped down to fourfigures and now its around $500. The barrier to entry is next to nothing.” Madden’s own tree of brewers and business people he helped cultivate took advantage of the legal sea changes. Mad Fox brewer Charlie Buettner moved on to become the head brewer at Lorton’s Fair Winds Brewing Company. Randy Barnett, who was one of the original minds behind Mad Fox and a restaurant savant, also moved on to a new opportunity. The flight of talent didn’t hurt Madden in the shortterm, but it contributed to the competitive landscape popping up around him. It’s something that Madden admits he would’ve changed if he had the good fortune of SB 604 passing in the brewpub’s planning phase. The farm-to-table concept employed at Mad Fox struggled to keep pace with demand for food truck eating at breweries. Patrons also want the romance of being “in production mode,” according to Kuhns, and Mad Fox’s polished aesthetic likely had customers look elsewhere for their brewery fix. Couple those factors with an explosion of unique dining options in Falls Church — Madden noted six new restaurants opened up within City limits last year alone, not to mention direct competitors in Audacious Aleworks and Settle Down Easy — and suddenly Mad Fox’s business model was looking more likely to become a financial albatross than a nifty, but necessary, disguise for a brewery. An interaction with a regular at Mad Fox in early 2019 confirmed to Madden the state of his brewpub. “‘What a great time to be in Falls Church. There are so many choices in restaurants. When you

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guys opened, there was only this much; now I can go to a new restaurant every night,’” Madden recounted the customer saying, before adding himself. “It’s hard to take that in as a business owner because you put your heart and soul into this, but I saw what was happening in the industry and the City.” Madden’s move now is to do some consulting work for fellow brewers, continuing the fraternal tradition in the business’ culture (for the right price). And even an insider like him has no knowledge of who may be interested in the Mad Fox space, though he suggests that Delaware’s Iron Hill Brewing & Restaurant would fit the mold. He’s just hopeful that the good experiences customers and employees had at Mad Fox will be remembered fondly, too. But Mad Fox’s influence already lives on outside of its old space on West Broad St. Audacious’ partner Mike Frizzell commented that it’s hard to know if they contribute to a craft beer culture because they’re just living it — to him, people simply love craft beer in Falls Church. Chances are Mad Fox played a big role in that.

MAD FOX BREWING COMPANY’S outdoor patio (top) was always a hit during the warmer months of the year. But customers began to flock towards breweries that presented the factory-vibe more openly, such as Settle Down Easy Brewing Company, especially after food components were no longer required to serve alcohol in Virginia. (Photos: News-Press)

PAGE 20 | SEPTEMBER 12 – 18, 2019

FO O D &D I NI NG

Thompson Italian Chef Talks Challenges, Concept & More of F.C.’s Newest Restaurant

Continued from Page 13

it’s the bomb!” So we started looking around Falls Church and thought the community here is really nice. When this space was shown to us we knew it was the space we wanted. Hard part about this spot is that Argia’s used to occupy it, and for the people that really loved it, we’re trying to fill a hole that they may not want filled. So we might not meet people’s expectations, or we also might exceed them, but it’s been hard. There’s been a lot of Argia’s people who say we suck. I understand; it’s a totally different concept and look. If you loved Argia’s and go in there and it’s different, you’re not really into it. But to me, it’s nice that we’re using the space for the same style of restaurant. How did you come up with the aesthetic for the restaurant? Katherine did all the design. It was partially inspired by old some restaurants she worked at in New York, with the deep colors, accented by the pink, teal and gold combinations. We added the neon signs and even have some family members who did some charcoal paintings, such as that one of

18th and H in downtown D.C. Katherine’s dad got really into making soundproofing panels that line the walls after we found light fixtures that we liked, I made shades and sconces and got really into that. With our logo being black and pink, we wanted to use that a lot and add gold anywhere we could. How are you distinguishing yourself from the other nearby Italian restaurants — Pizzeria Orso, Italian Cafe, Pistone’s Italian Inn and Sfizi Cafe? I haven’t eaten any of them yet, so I don’t know what they’re like, but we’re doing the same thing we’ve always done. The same kind of food that we’ve always done in New York. We’re trying to also make it more family friendly than we did in New York. I don’t know the other local spots well enough, I haven’t made the time to check them out, so I think our guests are going to have to dictate to us whether we’re way off base or we fit in perfectly into the what the area wants. Any twists to the Italian food concept you’re bringing to the menu? To be 100 percent honest, we don’t

THE STORM JUST HIT AND WE WENT FROM DONATING TO THE FOOD BANK TO NEEDING IT. Donna, Louisiana

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FALLS CHURCH NEWS-PRESS | FCNP.COM

make Italian food. So I love pasta. I like making it. But we just make things that we think taste good with those things. For example, our Bucatini is kind of a classic taste on pasta, but we load it up with toasted garlic. There’s other things that bring it together — such as the butter, parmesan and red chili flakes — but somebody the other day mentioned that “It just takes like toasted garlic” and I said that it’s exactly what it was. If I had given it a name like “Toasted Garlic Pasta,” they would understand, but I don’t because we tried to get inspired by ingredients and whatever we see — so we may see some apples and we’ll find a way to make an apple salad with other stuff thrown in there. We’re using some really great ingredients, spliced with some Italian ingredients and making whatever we want.”

Probably have to change at least 75 percent of menu, which is difficult for the staff because they’re just now getting used to this menu; every entree and appetizer has to change. I have four or five things on the menu that are non-seasonal, but everything else is seasonal. So right now we’re writing out everything how we’re going to accomplish that and what items we’re gonna roll out and take off. For instance, one of our suppliers is running out of tomatoes, so we’re saying to ourselves “Cool, guess we’ll have to phase out tomatoes, then.”

THE STORM JUST HIT AND WE WENT FROM DONATING TO THE FOOD BANK TO NEEDING IT.

It sounds like the menu is fluid then, where you guys are open to changing as things go? Right now everything’s starting to dwindle, and we have to do a menu change. The fall menu change is always the hardest because we almost have to do something the same week. So it’s a hard thing to do.

Donna, Louisiana

What’s been a consistent challenge that you’ve found yourself having to conquer over and over again? Organization. The space seems big but it’s not. Just constantly moving things here and there, and trying to find the right orientation for it all. I mean, to be honest, there’s been a million challenges, most of the things we thought. Katherine will talk about how all the sleepless nights she had about X, and then everything went fine there, and it ends up being Y that went wrong that we never worried about. So it’s a lot of that, but mostly space and having everything organized and realizing maybe we put a shelf in the wrong space or what have you. Thompson Italian is located at 124 N. Washington St. in Falls Church and open six nights a week, from 5 – 10 p.m. and is closed on Tuesdays.

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