DE0064 AMERICAN PREPPY PROJECT HOLLY ANNE WATSON W14022779
IVY LEAGUE FASHION
IVY LEAGUE FASHION WAS AT ITS PEAK DURING THE 1960’.BROOKS BROTHERS WERE AT THE HELM OF CREATING THIS REFINED TIMELESS STYLE. TO THIS DAY DESIGNERS ARE TAKING INSPIRATION FROM MANY ASPECTS OF CAMPUS LIFE FROM THE SHARP TAILORING WITH ITS NEW RELAXED EDGE TO THE SPORTING AND LIFESTYLE ATTIRE. IVY FASHION IS STILL PROVING TO BE A RICH RESOURCE FOR INSPIRATION
THE IMPORTANCE OF FOOTWear
the first thing you will be judged by as an ivy league student is your shoes. acceptable footwear includes: -sneakers such as converse -clarks desert boots
“wanna know if a guy is well dressed? look down� -george frazier the boston globe
but 2 styles that are iconic to ivy league style are: -long wing tip brogues -the loafer most notably the bass weejun
RALPH LAUREN LOAFERS guccio gucci moccasin worn by fred astaire
originally made by cole haanoften made in suede
the alden tassel moccasin
“the roll of the collar is the most important thing� -george frazier (colomist for the boston globe)
ICONIC IVY SHIRT STYLES
the brooks brothers button down is said to have the perfect collar roll
straignt point collar
the straight point collar also known in brooks brothers as the tennis point collar - was frequently worn by jfk. the collar points should be between 2 5/8 and 2 7/8
round (club) collar
the round collar originated from eton boys school style
tab collar
the tab collar holds the tie in place with tabs. during the 1960’s alongside the oxford button down was considered the epitome of ivy style
oxford button down
originating from the polo fields in england. in 1900 john brooks saw polo players doing this to avoid the collar flapping in the wind. it became an iconic staple of the ivy league style. worn by icons such as: -miles davis on his 1958 album cover -steve mcqueen -anthony perkins-psycho
THE BROOKS BROTHERS SACK SUIT in 1918 brooks brothers came up with their famous “sack suit” with: - unpadded shoulders -buttonhole on the left -soft front construction - cb vent -plain front straight leg trousers natural shoulders
brands such as dickies were a very popular choice among ivy leaguers - the brand was often seen advertising exclusively to campus’
conservative lapels button holes
1/4 inch welted edges
brooks brothers sack suit most people who still follow ivy league fashion are purists when it comes to fabrics opting for exclusively natural fabrics. however from the early 1950’s to mid 1960’s the most popular trousers were a pair of synthetic trousers created by dupont the material was:
dickies 1950’s advertisement
-lightweight -wrinkle resistant -easily laundered
three button front
patch and flap pockets
many turn up cuffs while wearing
exposed ankles symbolising relaxed elegance -cuffs should be turned up exactly one and three quater inches
SPORTS & IVY LEAGUE the key element of the ivy league style is revolved around sports uniforms. designers both high end and highstreet are still taking inspiration from this
designer vetements has encourperated aspects of ivy fashion from the college colour tie to the relaxed open collar as rowing team even down to the female skirt style
patched on university initial
rowing team in iconic v neck jumper
harvard lacrosse team uniform
ARCHIVE FASHION PIECES RESEARCH I HAD THE CHANCE TO LOOK AROUND THE ARCHIEVE IN AMSTERDAM AT THERE HISTORICAL GARMENTS. THESE ARE SOME KEY PIECES I FOUND REALLY RELEVANT
LACROSSE STYLE ZIP UP SWEATER
PROTECTIVE DETAILS
APPLIQUE DETAIL LEATHER PATCH
MIXED MEDIA RUGBY BALL LEATHER DETAIL JACKET
RAF SIMONS fall 2016
patch on yale style initial
oversized rowing jumper necklines
sports/jersey sweater writing
yale colours
ivy style jacket
princeton colours
ivy league fashion was all about the perfect fit. shoulder pads were removed from suiting, trouserlegs were slim fitting but modern designers are all about oversized & contrasting silhouttes. designer raf simons paired giant oversized rowing jumpers with slim fitting pants & shirts to create a modern iteration of the ivy league style
TOMMY HILFIGER
TOMMY HILFIGER HAS LONG ENCAPSULATED THE SPIRIT OF AMERICAN PREPPY STYLE. TOMMY HILFIGER HAS HOWEVER FREQUENTLY SAID THAT HE THINGS PREPPY FASHION IS NOT A PARTICULAR STYLE IT IS A VAST SCALE AND IS ALL ABOUT MINDSET.
KEY PIECE: LOGO SWEATSHIRT PHOTOGRAPHS OF MY SUPRME JUMPER USING THE ICONIC IVY LEAGUE FELT LETTERING
THE MOST WIDELY USED ASPECT OF IVY LEAGUE FASHION IS THE LOGO JUMPERS AND SWEATSHIRTS.
VETEMENTS DISTORTED LOGO HAS BEEN VERY INSPIRATIONAL THIS YEAR WIDELY REPRODUCED
I DECIDED TO RE-WORK THE OLD NAVY LOGO IN THIS SAME STYLE
TOPSHOP HIGHSTREET REWORKS OF VETEMENTS CONCEPT
THE BURBERRY TRENCHCOAT
EPAULETTES
HANG TAB EMBROIDERED LABEL
STITCHED EYELETS
SLEEVE STRAPS
CHECK UNDER COLLAR
DEEP BACK YOKE
PURE COTTON CLASSIC BURBERRY LINING
RALPH LAUREN AMSTERDAM RALPH LAUREN STORES ARE ALWAYS PACKED WITH AMERICAN MEMORABILIA SUCH AS LARGE AMERICAN FLAGS, PLAIDS & WOODEN SHELVES AND FLOORING.
RALPH LAUREN AMSTERDAM STORE
ICONIC PRODUCTS : RALPH LAUREN POLOS, MERINO WOOL SWEATERS & BUTTON DOWN SHIRTS
FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
RECENTLY THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY HELD AN EXHIBIT DEDICATED TO IVY LEAGUE FASHION. FROM THE SPORTING UNIFORMS TO CASUAL WINTERWEAR & SACK SUITING. THE EXHIBIT WAS EXTREMELY INTERESTING & SHOWED HOW DEFINED AND ICONIC THIS STYLE HAS BECOME THAT IT IS ALL SO WEARABLE NOW
HARVARD MEMORIAL BUILDING I WAS REALLY INSPIRED BY THE MEMORIAL BUILDING & SAW MANY PATTERNS AND POSSIBLE PRINTS BE PRODUCED FROM THE COLOURS OF THIS BUILDING.
KNIT CONCEPTS
BEAUTIFUL HARVARD KNITIING THAT COULD AND PATTERNS
JFK & BOATING FASHION INFLUENCES
the casual outdoors lifestyle has always been a key part of ivy league style. jfk was an icon for his cool casual attire.
flat front shorts just above the knee were a summer staple
crew neck shetland sweatshirt
sperry top sliders
BOATING JACKETS this classic american boating blazer usually had the university crest on the chest. this was a piece that was adopted by mod’s in london in the 1960’s along with many other american pieces such as loafers, gant button down shirts and long wing tip brogues
mod wearing the boating jacket
clipper craft 1957.
IVY LEAGUE LIFESTYLE relaxed fit sweatshirts
varying coloured plaid skirts
one of the main reasons that preppy style adapted the way it did was the campus lifestyle. students became acustomed to this relaxed more casual way of living and clothing reflected this. suiting had shoulder pads removed and was more naturally fitting, comfortable slip on loafers became trendy and campus logo hoodies were a staple of every wardrobe
ILLUSTRATOR BETTY BRADER
perfect trouser roll
betty brader was a popular illustrator during the 1960’s. she perfectly captured the fit and style of the trouser cuff roll and fit.it captured the feel of ivy style at this time my interpretation of betty’s style
CABLE KNIT RESEARCH observational cable knit study
vinyl coated printed cotton
braid cable stitch
KEY PIECE: LEVIS 501 levis 501 along with straight front trousers levis 501’s were iconic of this time. they are still one of the most popular jeans to this day.
james dean in levis 501
denim swatches
IVY LEAGUE CULTURAL INFLUENCES
during the 1950’s racism was still extremely prevelent. black people could generally not attend the same campus’ as white students so specific universities were set up for wealthy black students. due to all of the opression at this time it was common that these students expressed themselves through their way of dressing combining many classic ivy league pieces with their own edgy twist
in tokyo in 1964 a cult appeared who adapted the classic ivy league look they were known as “ miyuki-zoku” most of the ivy league garments produced by the usa were imported by the japanese. japan also produced several photographic books of ivy students