FDQ
SUMMER 2008
FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY
2009 Sneak Peek: Medusa & Empress of The Golden Blossom
Create A Pillbox Hat On Location In Spain Livin’ The DreamHouse! Official Mattel Sheath Pattern SUMMER 2008 $20 US $20 canada www.fashiondollquarterly.net
On The Runway www.fashiondollquarterly.com •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY•
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YOU’RE
INVITED
TO THE PARTY. Join the 2008 Barbie SM Fan Club for the opportunity to purchase this fabulous Haut MondeTM Barbie® Doll. As a member, you’ll enjoy other exclusive doll offers and benefits. Find out more at BarbieCollector.com. http://www.barbiecollector.com
www.fashiondollquarterly.com •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• are limited. Doll quantities ©2008 Mattel, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Doll cannot stand alone.
FDQ FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY
Barbie’s Most Glamorous Moments Wentworth vs. Voss The Decadent Beauty of the Sybarites Dressmaker Details Couture by Steven Fraser MORE Patterns! SUMMER 2008 $10 US $12 canada www.faShiondollqUaRtERly.coM
www.fashiondollquarterly.net •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
Glamour
www.fashiondollquarterly.com •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.dressmakerdetails.com
www.windycitydolls.com
www.mfd.net
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Welcome home is a collection of elegant furniture for the discerning fashion doll collector. Each piece is made by hand of the finest materials to reflect the style and scale of vintage and contemporary furniture. we sell both suites of furniture and separate pieces, each designed to complement your existing dioramas, doll houses and cabinets. sofas and chairs are upholstered in classic style, and side tables, armoires and cabinetry is created with an eye to fine detail seen in full scale decor. come and see our latest offerings of furniture at welcome home. we can be seen regularly in fashion doll quarterly, as well as previews and exclusives offered on internet forums such as the pink parlor and doll divas. indulge your dolls with the finest in miniature home designwelcome home by maryann roy contact: maryann@ntplx.net
www.fashiondollquarterly.com •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY•
FDQ FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Pat Henry
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Alexandra Forbes
SALES MANAGERS Dorinda Balanecki Marsh Matulionis
SENIOR EDITOR Leeann Bernard
FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE Denise Jefferson
FASHION WRITER Amanda Arnold
COPY EDITOR Kathleen Quinn
INTERNATIONAL CORRESPONDENT Annmarie LaBella
MARKETING MANAGER Mary Jo Gennaro
CONTRIBUTORS
Pg.54
Christy Allum, Dorinda Balanecki, J. David Buttry, Kelly Haines, Doug James, Lauren King, M. Dalton King, Linda Leone, Marsh Matulionis, Sally McDonald, Elizabeth Miesner, Frank Miesner, Mercy Neumark, Maryann Roy, Jay Searle, Corinne Skinner, Matt Sky, Pam Tobey, Vin Trapani, Angela P. Wade
FDQ MEDIA 299 Eastern Parkway Germantown, NY 12526 USA (212) 961-0662 www.fashiondollquarterly.com •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
FDQ EDITORS LETTER
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ell, it’s been a long time coming! I have been a Barbie collector for twenty years, starting with a few odd bubblecuts and a very loved number three ponytail, but I have never been to the National Barbie Convention! How could this be, you may ask? When I first began to collect, I pretty much kept it to myself, picking up a doll at a yard sale or in a junk store. It wasn’t until the Internet communities began to grow that I discovered a whole world of collecting, with forums, chat rooms and online clubs like Yahoo groups. It didn’t occur to me right away to get on a plane and mingle with hundreds of strangers just because they liked Barbie. However, as I began to diversify my collection with Gene, Tyler and other fashion dolls, I made friends online and at local clubs. They got me to go to conventions, but for other dolls. As time went on, I simply thought to myself, “Probably next year.” Several years ago after starting FDQ, I was fortunate to get my own private convention, of sorts. I was invited out to Mattel headquarters, where I could see the design room, the archives and the photo studios where the world’s most famous model had her pictures taken. It was truly one of the greatest experiences of my life. So, I thought, nothing could top that, could it? But more and more friends insisted that it wasn’t the same as being there with all the other collectors who lived and loved Barbie doll. And this is the best time to go, just so I can get warmed up and learn the ropes in preparation for the big one next year– Barbie’s fiftieth birthday! That’s a celebration no one should miss, so I wanted to make sure I knew how things worked at convention so I would pack the right clothes, plan the right vacation and buckle up for the golden jubilee to come! Now for you regular readers, you are familiar with our first special issue on Barbie, “That Fabulous Face”. This issue was bundled with our regular quarterly as a special salute to the ultimate vinyl diva. Since then, we have featured Barbie on our Accessories cover (The new Pivotal “Jazz Babies”) and our current cover (Glamour), which features the gorgeous Vera Wang Barbie from this year’s collection. This issue, while being “virtual” marks our fourth cover featuring Barbie doll. “Empress of the Golden Blossom” is a sneak peek from Mattel from the 2009 line. We hope you will enjoy this little scoop as well as all the other wonderful features inside, particularly the chic sheath pattern, direct from Mattel’s design room! With this “plug ‘n play” style issue, you can print this pattern over and over right from your computer. Print the issue, too, or download to your desktop. And the bracelet holds one gig of storage so you can add files, photos and even music to the drive and use as an easy storage device and fashion accessory. It comes in black, and of course, pink, and it’s plastic– but reusable. Barbie would be proud.
The ultimate in glamour is the Empress of the Golden Blossom, new for 2009 from Mattel. Photo courtesy of Mattel, Inc.
www.fashiondollquarterly.com •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY•
CONTENTS
FDQ FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY
SPECIAL VIRTUAL ISSUE SUMMER 2008
ON THE COVER Lucky convention goers are the first to see this sneak peek of a 2009 doll, “Empress of The Golden Blossom” Barbie doll. From the elegant ornaments in her hair to the stunning brocade kimono and gown, this lady is sure to impress! Photography courtesy of Mattel, Inc.
DEPARTMENTS________________________ 9 12 64
Letter from the Editor Newsfront– Sneak peek at 2009 Last Look
FEATURES_____________________________ 11 14 22 36
Pg.36
Barbie Trivia: What’s your BB IQ? Setting Up Your Own Photo Studio by Pat Henry Creating The Classic Pillbox Hat for Barbie Livin’ The Dream– House, of course! by Maryann Roy
FASHION______________________________ 45 The Barbie Style, by Matt Sky 54 On Location in The Meditterannean by Alex Forbes
PATTERNS AND CRAFTS________________ 62 10 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
Official Mattel Sheath Pattern for Silkies
The Think PINK quiz: How well do you know your barbie trivia?
In our special Barbie issue, “That Fabulous Face”, we featured a page of facts and trivia about Miss Roberts. Some questions are easy; some are quite difficult! See what your Barbie quotient is! (If you already have our special issue, you will find all the answers on page 9, if you want to skip the hard part.) 1. What is Barbie’s middle name?
15. What was Barbie’s new “boy toy’s” name?
2. Who is the “Matt” in Mattel?
16. If you placed Barbie and her friends head-totoe, how many times would they circle the earth?
3. What were the first products produced in the Handler’s garage? 4. What year did Barbie first run for President of the U.S.? 5. How many Barbie dolls are sold ever second around the world? 6. What year were the first black and Hispanic Barbie dolls introduced?
17. In what year’s did Barbie doll represent an astronaut? 18. In how many nations are Barbie dolls sold? 19. How many pets has Barbie had? 20. Who was the first celebrity character to join the Barbie doll family?
7. What was the best selling Barbie doll ever produced? 8. How many sisters does Barbie have?
scoring:
9. Can you name them?
18-20: you are a pink skin number one!
10. What year did Midge and Allan (later Alan) wed?
15-17: japanese sidepart american girl
11. What is their son’s name?
11-14: silkstone fashion model
12. How many Barbie dolls were sold in 1959?
7-10: top model
13. What year did Barbie and Ken split up? 14. How many voters logged on to Barbie. com to choose a new boyfriend for Barbie?
3-6: my scene 0-2: strictly playline!
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FDQ NEWSFRONT
Sneak Peek 2009 Convention goers are the first to see! Two exciting new dolls from the 2009 Barbie Collectibles line!
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Opposite page: Ancient myth and contemporary fashion combine to create a spectacular doll. Barbie as Medusa is a stunning creature, with her exquisite golden snake arm cuffs, necklace and earrings. This page: Our elegant cover girl is Empress of The Golden Blossom, wearing an evening ensemble that is part traditional kimono style blending with all that is couture for evening, from the golden ornaments in her hair to the elaborate brocade gown. Find both of these lovely ladies at www.BarbieCollector.com
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FDQ THE INSIDER
Create A Barbie Photo Studio Fashion Doll Quarterly’s publisher, Pat Henry, shares with you the basics in setting up your own home studio to take beautiful and professional shots of Barbie every time!
W
ith the advent of the digital revolution, web sites and online auctions, collectors have taken up a camera and began to shoot their favorite subject, the fashion doll. Unlike a real model, dolls are patient, come with their hair and make-up done, and don’t charge overtime. Who better to capture time and again in all their finery? With this great surge of photography comes lots of new information and technology to learn. For 18 years, I worked on fashion shoots with the likes of Iman, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington and Liv Tyler. Having stood behind many great photographers as a fashion stylist, I have been fortunate to have learned a few valuable tricks on getting the best shot of a subject. At New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, I teach my students how to prop and style sets and models for photo shoots. Here is a crash course on getting just the right shot every time. First, consider your camera. Are you familiar with the camera itself, or is it new? Get comfortable with using the camera before undertaking large complicated shots. Then, what are you shooting the picture for? If you are using a digital camera for a web shot, you can preset the camera for flash or close-ups, and choose the level of quality you want for the picture. Most web photos need only be a resolution of 72dpi, or 72 dots per inch. Most digitals can easily create adequate quality shots for this purpose. But if you are shooting for a magazine, or making a print, the needs are a bit more complicated. A decent quality shot for print must be at least 300dpi, which means your camera must be set for the highest quality. Many digital cameras that are less than 3.3 megapixels cannot create a picture of such high resolution. If they 14 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
do, the size of the photograph itself maybe too small for a full page. Before buying a camera, consider your reason for taking the picture. There are now hundreds of different cameras that range in price from $69.99 to $8,000, depending on how advanced the camera is and what type of quality it can capture. If you have an inexpensive digital, you will be set for web shots and eBay, but you may not be able to use it for reproduction in a magazine or book.
I currently use a Canon EOS20D, which retails for a little under $1000. While this is more than most collectors will ever need, I have used this camera to take professional quality shots for press kits and advertisements, as well as the books, “The Art of Miniature Millinery”, and “The Art of Making Beautiful Fashion Doll Shoes”. However, I also have a more reasonably priced Canon Elph that takes perfectly good shots for my web site and for e-mailing shots of dolls back and forth. Once you know what your needs are, you can make an educated choice as to the camera that will be right for you. After you purchase your camera, make sure to read the instructions carefully! Every time you turn on a digital camera, you have to reset all your choices, depending on what and where you are shooting. For example, shooting outdoors on a sunny day, you won’t need the flash if the light is directly on the doll. If you are shooting with the light behind the doll, it will be “back lit” and the subject will be too dark. You may need the flash to “fill” in the lack of natural light on the front of the doll. Be aware of the time of day, as well. Shooting in the morning will give you strong clear light, while in the afternoon, the light will become warmer and more yellow. In the winter months, outdoor light can be almost blue. Shoot-
This photo is an outtake from the cover shoot for FDQ’s Summer issue, which shipped in April, featuring the new Vera Wang Barbie on the cover. Pat used several fabrics with shine and texture draped over foamcore to create the set. Back lights illuminated the silver fabric behind the doll, while the key light (coming from lower left) lit the doll. A Christman ornament chandelier was hung in the background as a prop but did not show in the final shot used for the cover.low).
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Above: A simple set fits right on the dining room table, using seamless paper and the four light set-up. Two lights for “fill”, one as “hair” light and one as the “key” light, which is directed on the doll when they are placed on the set.
ing at noon, you will get strong overhead light. This can often cause hard shadows on the doll, especially near the eyelashes, and nose. If you have to shoot when the light is high, it is best to use open shade, perhaps under a tree, for even lighting and accurate color in the finished photo. Many novices are not used to taking notice of the available light, and the direction it is coming from. This is very important, because you don’t want those odd shadows on the doll. When I first began shooting dolls, I created a mini studio with lights from the hardware store. Clip on lamps with standard 100 watt bulbs can give you stronger “studio” lighting to allow you to get a crisp, clear shot. I clipped them onto a ladder, and set up the dolls on my dining room table. If you want to diffuse the lights, you can cover them with paper lanterns, or set up a “scrim”. A scrim is basically a panel of sheer fabric, like linen or nylon, which stands in front of the light and softens the direction of the harsh bulb. This is easy to make with available fabric, or you can buy them in photo stores. Another good use for fabric is for the background. Freshly ironed, it can be draped or hung to create a “sweep” of seamless color to put behind your doll. Felt is a great matte fabric that rolls up easily and saves ironing time. It also 16 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
absorbs light well, so shooting on black felt will give you a rich, dark background without hard shadows behind your doll. You can also use gift wrap, sheets, or shower curtains that you have right in your own home. I currently have a large selection of seamless photography paper, which retails for about $25 a roll. You can buy these in art supply stores (http://www.pearlpaint.com) or photo stores (http://www. bhphoto.com). One good roll of white seamless paper can last you a lifetime, and can be the perfect investment for creating a clean, strong background for shooting any doll or mid sized object. If you don’t mind seeing a horizon line of the floor, you can get two large pieces of cardboard or poster board in any color as well. These days, a number of suppliers offer inexpensive digital photo “cubes”; collapsible nylon boxes in which to put the doll, with outside lighting surrounding the box to create soft, evenly distributed light. When shooting a shot with a colorful background, always consider the color of the garment the doll is wearing so that the doll doesn’t blend in with the background. Try to always keep the background simple, so the focus is completely on the subject, your doll. Once your “studio” is set up, play with the lights. Most photographers use a minimum of three lights. The “Key”
In this shot, the model is shot with one key light to the left and one fill light hitting the background on the right. The effect is soft, but even.
In this shot, we go for a silhouette shot, but notice that the shadows are hitting the surface behind the model. Lights must be adjusted to get an even tone.
Here you can see the effect of two fill lights hitting the background. A key light on the model will light the subject, while the fill takes care of the seamless paper. Two pieces of black foam core keep the fill lights from hitting the model.
If we shoot our model with fill lights only, you will get a silhouette effect. This is called “back lighting” and you can do this to create a strong shape for graphics, logos or artistic designs.
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Even Mattel has to use the occasional Photoshop tools to perfect Barbie’s dream kitchen. Here, the doll is shot using the vintage set, but of course, there was a limit to the size of the kitchen. A good artist can bring in original artwork and blend it seamlessly with the photograph to creat the ideal setting for Miss Roberts at home or at play.
light is the main light that shines on the subject. The “fill” lights literally fill the background, and are usually placed one on either side of the doll, facing towards the background. These lights illuminate the backdrop evenly. The “hair” light goes above and behind the doll, to completely balance the key light in front. If you don’t have many lights, you can use a fill card. A large white or silver card can be placed opposite the light to “bounce” light back on the darker side of the subject. Look carefully at the light on the doll. Adjust to remove shadows, and make sure the doll is evenly lit from top to bottom. A digital camera picks up the center of your focus and adjusts the light in the camera. If the doll is unevenly lit, the camera’s computer may overcompensate for the light, and throw off the balance of the shot. Take a few shots of the doll from different angles, and move the lights to different places. Professional photographers usually take 3 or 4 rolls of film for every shot you see on the printed page. So don’t be afraid to take 10 or 20 shots of the doll in different poses, to see what works best. Once you upload them to your computer, you can edit them down to the best selection, and decide what style of lighting works best. Play with your light settings (or color balance on more advanced cameras) 18 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
and write down the different settings, so that you can go back and recapture the look of a shot that you like. Most cameras come with a basic program that allows you to crop, rotate and touch up the picture a bit. If you want to take more advanced photos, and create special effects, I suggest you invest in a program like Photoshop. There is a basic program (Photoshop LE) for less than $100, but I prefer to use PhotoshopCS. This is a professional level program, and takes a while to master, but it is well worth it, if you wish to pursue high quality shots. With these image editing programs, you can not only improve the focus and color quality of the shot, you can make the same shot work for both the Internet and print. Photoshop has tools for lightening, darkening and altering the color of the picture.You can remove telltale doll stands and wires from the picture with these tools.You can even change the color of the dress, or the dolls’ eyes, if you want to create something unique. Many collectors have learned to “knock out” the doll and place them on other backgrounds they have scanned in. This is one of my favorite things to do with my dolls. Instead of building a small scale Versailles, I simply place a studio shot of my doll on the background of choice. This is a fun way to show your collection on web sites, or for your own files.
This number 3 with brown eyeliner strikes a pose on black felt. The felt absorbs the light and the strong flash does not create hard shadows behind the doll.
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While Mattel has a vast team of photographers, stylists and set builders, there are the occasional shots that have “virtual” backgrounds created with Photoshop. The Mattel team does such a good job, you probably don’t even notice when you are looking at a masterwork of Photoshop! If you are using your photos for the web, most camera programs have tools for re-sizing. You will always want to make sure your shots are small enough for uploading. If you are sending an e-mail, a size between 50k and 100k is about as large as you should go to guarantee the shot will be sent quickly, while still showing up large enough to see at the other end. A large shot that measures 8x10” may be a file size of 6 or 7 megabytes, and prove to be too large for your ISP to send. These shots will print up nicely on a color printer instead. This is also an important consideration for web pages, as you want your shots to be well sized to upload quickly. Sometimes, you may find yourself re-sizing the shot right on the web page, but the shot is still a larger file. This may create an aborted upload, so resize the shots before you use them in your web page program. When printing a photo, it’s best to use photo paper made specifically for your printer. Depending on the printer, there will be options for setting up the page, and the size of your paper. Make sure you have selected the right type of paper, color ink settings and highest quality. Today’s home printers are so advanced, they can create stunning color prints as big as 17’x22” that are suitable for framing. For these projects, I strongly suggest the Epson color printers. They have many styles at every price range, and consistently produce high quality prints. If you are not sure about sending jpegs across the internet, making large quality prints can allow a book publisher or magazine to re-scan the prints and size them accordingly. You can also put large size files on a USB drive (like the bracelet drice that houses this special issue), or burn them onto a CD, which is a great way to permanently archive your shots for future repeat use. You can duplicate the shots and resize them again for the internet when you’re ready. It’s always a good idea to back up your files in case your computer freezes or breaks down.
Above: Muffy Roberts wears a DAE dress, Facets by Marcia necklace and BFMC bracelet. The screen in the backgoround can be scanned and reprinted for your own set direct from our current Glamour issue of FDQ!
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Finally, for more elaborate sets, check your doll and teddy bear stores for props and furniture that will create a realistic environment for your shot. Many collectors have turned up computers, stereos and TV sets for their dolls that are refrigerator magnets, desk accessories and accessories from other dolls and toys. If you find fun magazines and paper goods that are too small, use your scanner to enlarge these props for your Barbie dolls. I like to scan real fashion magazines, airline tickets, and maps on the computer and make them 80% smaller for 1/6-scale dolls. These little props add a dimension of reality to the set, and are fun to use. Now you are ready to make fashion history– in miniature!v
This page: “The Secretary” Silkstone Fashion Model wears Couture Details “Patio Party” fashion, while entertaining in the 1960s Dream House. Notice how the addition of tiny props adds realism to the set. Photos on this spread by Denise Jefferson. www.fashiondollquarterly.com •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• 21
The Classic Pillbox
Other than Jackie Kennedy, no one can wear a pillbox hat better than Barbie! FDQ takes you through the process of creating your own haute chapeaux.
pillbox hat design by timothy j. alberts. text by m. dalton king. photography and styling by pat henry. instructions excerpted from the art of making miniature millinery ©2002 published by hobby house press Opposite page: A titian bubblecut with bright red lips shows off her crowing glory– a navy buckram pillbox hat trimmed in ribbons and pearls, created by Tim Alberts. It is the perfect complement to “Commuter Set”.
W
hen you want, or need, to make a very shaped hat for your doll, using buckram for your foundation is an ideal solution. You’ll also find that if you want to create a hat from a really light or transparent fabric, such as organza and lace, using buckram for your foundation is an excellent option. It lends itself to the process beautifully, and eliminates the need to do a completely wired foundation, which can be tiresomely difficult and tricky. Buckram is a very interesting “material”! When dry and in its’ natural state it is as stiff as a board, but when wet, it can be shaped or stretched to any shape you choose. And, when dry it becomes stiff again and successfully retains its new shape. You should be aware however, that because of these very properties, buckram hats cannot be steamed or wet in any way once the desired shape is achieved. Composed of an open weave fabric, buckram is usually sold in black or white. Colors are rare and difficult to come by, and dyeing really isn’t an option because, as stated in Chapter 1, the dyeing process would eliminate 22 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
the very sizing, which is so essential to the making, and the retaining of, the shape of the foundation. Your best bet, in this case, is to make sure that whatever fabric you use to cover the shape does it well enough to camouflage the buckram. Of course there is always the option of painting the buckram with the desired color once it has been blocked and stretched to the desired shape. You will also find that, even when working in a miniature size, either one or two-ply buckram will work equally well. Two-ply, if you can find it, is really quite helpful for the finer weave side makes it easier to more accurately mark your patterns, and helps prevent the edge of the buckram from shredding as you stitch. As far as other the supplies you’ll need, you will find a list of the basics in Chapter 2 of the booko. In this article, a pillbox hat is demonstrated. These hats have never really gone out of style since Jackie Kennedy made them so popular. Using this classic shape has an additional advantage, besides being a good model to demonstrate the technique of working with buckram; it can also be translated into a toque, the beginning
FDQ DESIGN NOTEBOOK
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The key to creating the right shape is in your block. Whether it is a vintage wood hat block, a bottle cap or a ball, any rounded shape can be adapted as a hat block. Compare sizes to see what best suits Barbie, and choose a hairstyle, like the bubblecut, that will best suit the hat shape and scale.
of a turban, and as the fundamental part of a brimmed hat. The scarf hats of the 1940s were created around a pillbox shape, as were the toques of the 1870s. The pillbox demonstrated here is for Barbie doll. We will begin by demonstrating how to stretch buckram over a “headblock” (in this case the headblock being a perfume bottle) or hat shape, in this case cover the hat with fabric and, finally, finish it off. After we have given an example of how to make a hat, which has a blocked buckram shape, we then provide you with an example of a buckram hat that has been made from flat patterned pieces of buckram and covered with fabric to create a Victorian hat for a doll named Emily. We show you how to make the pattern, transfer it to buckram, and then once you have the foundation of the hat, how to proceed and, finish it off. In fact, with the basics demonstrated here you should be able to adapt the techniques and use them to make any buckram hat. So we’ll begin with the first of these, the pillbox for Barbie. 24 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
1. To begin, there are a few standard tips it will help you to know. They will come in handy regardless of the hat you are making. The first of these is called “springing the wire”, which means you straighten the wire by pressing the wire with the padded portion of your thumb against the curve of the wire. The reason you do this is so that when you sew your wire to your buckram, or felt, it won’t twist as you sew it. For if it does twist, it will distort the foundation piece you are working on, making it necessary to undo your work and start again. 2. You’ll find it immensely helpful, to establish the center-front and center back, as soon as possible on your hat. All wires, bindings and trims etc., will begin and end at the center back. 3. The proper way to cut millinery wire is to use wire cutters, straight onto the wire, (see demonstration picture), and the proper way to bend the wire is to use needle-nose pliers and press as demonstrated. 4. There are three stitches you will use with your millinery foundation. The first is a blanket stitch. With this stitch you insert the needle into buck-
fig.1- Springing the wire
fig.2- cutting the millinery wire
fig.3- Bending the wire
fig.4- The blanket stitch
fig.5- The whip stitch
fig.6- The stab stitch
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fig.6- The stab stitch
fig.7- Perfume bottle as hat block
fig.8- Covering the bottle with foil and plastic wrap
fig.9- Wetting the buckram
fig.10- Smoothing the buckram over your block
fig.11- Secured buckram, stretched smoothly over the block
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Using a second bottle cap, you can create a brim to extend the pillbox shape into a picture hat, as seen here on a Silkstone Fashion Model.
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fig.12- Marking dried shape
fig.13- Removing dried buckram shape
fig.14- Trimming the buckram
fig.15- Final shape ready for wiring
fig.16- Tie wire used to join the cloth wire ring to the buckram
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fig.17- Forming cloth wire into an edging circle
ram, over the wire and pass it through the loop that is formed and then make you next stitch.
so small we suggest using cloth wire (see glossary), which is a much thinner wire than millinery wire.
5. The second stitch is the one you will probably use most often for leaves less of a ridge than other stitches, a plus for doll millinery. The whipstitch is very simple, just pass the needle through the buckram, over the wire, and then repeat the movement along the length of the wire.
18. Using a tape measure around the bottom of the hat form, determine the amount of wire you will need, adding enough of an overlap to make a secure join but not so much as to make it bulky. Then cut the wire from the spool.
6. The stab stitch is passed over the wire, through he buckram in a straight up and down motion. 7. When sewing hats, waxing your thread gives a greater strength as well as ease to your thread. To do so, run a piece of beeswax down the length of your thread. After you have coated the thread with the wax, press it with a warm iron, which will melt the wax into the thread. 8. First cover your headblock with aluminum foil, and over that place a layer of plastic wrap, which will make it easier to remove the buckram from the block. 9. The cut- a large enough square of buckram to cover your headblock (in this case a perfume bottle) and extend down several inches, all the way around. 10. Immerse the buckram in a bowl of lukewarm water making sure it is completely submerged. Let it sit 2 seconds, until the buckram begins to soften. 11. Remove the buckram from the water and lay it on the form. Smooth it over your block, and secure it with a rubber band or elastic tie. 12. Working your way around the edge of the buckram, keep pulling and stretching it until your shape is completely smooth and wrinkle free. A wrinkle in the buckram will put a wrinkle in your hat. 13. Allow the buckram to dry completely, making especially sure that the area where the buckram has been tied has also dried. 14. Mark your cutting edge. That is, where you want the edge of your hat to be. 15. Remove the buckram from the block.
19. Make the shape you need with the cloth wire and starting in the center of the overlap, begin to wrap tie wire around the join. Trim the excess tie wire and then using the needle nose pliers, crimp the join to smooth it. 20. Attach the wire shape to the buckram form using a whipstitch. Take care, as you sew, that the needle and thread don’t shred the buckram. For the photos, we used black thread on white buckram, just for the sake of visibility. Ordinarily you would use a matching color thread. And, for these small, fine hats we suggest using quilting thread, which is both very fine, and strong. 21. Place the hat shape on the headblock to make sure its shape hasn’t become distorted. 22. It is at this point that you will need to know what you want your hat to look like. The sample we are doing is going to be left in its raw state. If you want a different color you can paint it, but knowing that moisture can weaken your foundation this will have to be done very lightly. But should you decide to paint your foundation, you should place your shape on your headblock before painting it. 23. Decide what you are going to cover your hat with and begin that process. 24. For our sample the next step is to bind the edge with a bias strip of lightweight batiste, which is ideal for such a small hat. To do this use glue, gluing and stretching the edge as you go to get as smooth an edge as possible. Let the glue dry completely. And because we are doing a very basic covering, it would look best if the bias edge shows as little, and is as narrow as possible, because we are not going to line the sample hat. 25. The next step is covering the hat. You can use net, as we have here, tulle, or draped fabric as has been done with the Elizabeth Taylor doll in the bridesmaid outfit. If you make the hat from draped fabric it’s best to do it on the headblock or head the hat is being made for.
16. Trim the buckram, cutting it where you made the mark. 17. Your next step will be to wire the edge of your hat form. This is done to strengthen and stabilize the buckram form. Because the Barbie hat is
26. Keep checking your hat on the headblock to make sure it hasn’t lost its shape. www.fashiondollquarterly.com •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• 29
fig.18- The completed join on the edge wire
fig.19- Crimping the join to neaten it
fig.20- Placing the wire on the edge prior to stitching
fig.21- The wiring of foundation completed
fig.22- Checking for distortion of the hat foundation
fig.23- The bias batiste strip
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fig.24- Gluing the edging
fig.25- Stretching bias for smooth fit
fig.26- Covering the outside and inside evenly
fig.27- Completed binding
fig.28- Keep your bias edge as narrow as possible
fig.29- Covering the hat with four layers of net
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30. The next step is to bind the edge with a decorative ribbon. For the sample we use 3/8” navy grosgrain ribbon. The one we use is a cotton/rayon blend, which is the best grosgrain you can use for millinery. It can be pressed and keep shapes, it can be ironed into circles, can be used for binding bottom or used for a headband (or sweatband as it is sometimes called). Polyester ribbon is not acceptable for this process. 31. Press the ribbon in half. Apply it by folding over the edge and stitching it on, making sure the ribbon covers all raw edges. The outside and the inside are sewn together at the same time. This will finish off the hat eliminating the need for a lining or headband. 32. Now your hat is ready to be decorated or trimmed.Your trim can be anything you wish, bows, jewels, and flowers. The sample has been covered with small bows, made from satin ribbons that have been glued on. Pearls have been stitched to the bows and hat body. 33. A nice finishing touch is to put a small label or bow at the center back of the interior of the hat. This step also lets the customer or doll know what the intended center back of the hat should be.
Once you have your hat, consider making coordinating accessories to go with it and your favorite ensemble. By wrapping soft wire mesh around a Fashion Queen Barbie’s head and torso, you can make a hat stand/display head as well.
27. For the sample hat, 4 layers of millinery veiling could be used. We use eight, which gives it an even more “intense” look. You can change colors or even the density of colors just by adding layers. 28. Pin the net on and start to shape it over your buckram foundation. Then you will stab stitch the fabric on. Make sure if you’re using veiling that you catch enough to keep it securely in place. A single thread in the needle will suffice, for such a lightweight material. 29. After the veiling has been stitched and trimmed, if there are any little areas that haven’t been caught, just use a little magna-tac to glue any frayed ends down.
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34. Looking inside the finished hat you can see how neat it looks, no raw edges, not stitches showing. Truly a desired result for a creation that has taken some amount of thought and work.
Liz’s Bride’s Maid Hat The peach silk hat Liz wears for the wedding picture (next page) was made the same way as the Barbie hat above. A similar blocked crown of buckram was made and edge-wired. The edge was bound and the hat was draped in peach silk. The hat was then decorated with sewn on peach beads and a bias bow.v You can find “The Art of Making Miniature Millinery” on Amazon.com, as well as “The Art of Creating Beautiful Fashion Doll Shoes”.
fig.30-Covering the hat with eight layers of net
31- fig.31- Stitching net into place
fig.32- Trimmed net
fig.33- Affixing loose fibres in place
fig.34- Grosgrain for finished binding
fig.35- Folding binding equally over edge
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fig.36- Stitching both sides
fig.37- Binding neatly and finishing the interior
fig.38- Marking center back with a label
fig.39- Or bow!
fig.40- Hat finished and trimmed
fig.41- A draped version of the same hat Opposite: Mattel’s Liz Taylor doll plays the bridesmaid in Tim Albert’s peach silk dress with matching hat, made with the pillbox base, and covered with silk and beading.
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Barbie’s New Dream House (1965) gets a makeover with the help of Maryann Roy’s furniture collection, Welcome Home. A new rug and some homey touches
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FDQ FEATURE
Re-living The Dream.. HOUSE, that is! Our Vintage Editor, Maryann Roy, takes another look at a classic, and adds a few touches of her ownphotography, styling and furniture design by maryann roy email maryann at: maryann@ntplx.net
s are all Barbie needs to refresh her home sweet home!
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Design tip: When working with strong colors on walls, use neutrals on the flooring and furniture to balance the bold with the beautiful.
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Design Tip: Just like fashion, a chic home needs the right accessories. Throw pillows are easy to make with cotton batting and left over fabric scraps. They add color and flair to any home!
What could be more inviting than a comfortable place to reside? Our beloved gal, Barbie doll, has owned a few pieces of real estate over the years, one of the most cherished being the 1965 New Dream House. This sprawling ranch included a living room, galley kitchen, bedroom and patio. Barbie has decided to do a little re-modeling and re-decorating to better reflect today’s upscale living. Please allow me to take you on a tour of Barbie’s oh so glorious living quarters as she envisions it today. Living Room – In the Living Room, the heart of the house, there are now upholstered pieces in muted gold and green. A generously sized sofa and two side chairs invite lengthy conversations. A casual seating area by the fireplace is softened by matching throw pillows, while the wall to wall carpeting adds comfort and pulls the whole room together. Adding space without closing in the area, are the modern wall dividers which give the room a more open feel. Large floor lamps exude soft light, while subtle touches such as the book lined shelves, throw pillows and plants make you feel right at home.
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Galley Kitchen Next is the Galley Kitchen, which at first glance may seem quite small. But, by utilizing light and space, the kitchen appears larger and more functional. The dining area has been moved to the back of the kitchen, leaving plenty of space to cook and prepare meals. Using a large frosted piece of plexi-glass for a back wall adds light. A simple textile patterned vinyl covers the floor, adding to the illusion of space. And, a white wall between the kitchen and bedroom promotes privacy to what was once an open room.
Design Tip: New flooring can brighten up even the oldest kitchen. Look in your local hardware store for adhesive shelving paper to create checks, marbled textures and wood grain for floors. 40 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
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Bedroom Moving next, into the Master Bedroom, notice once again, how carpeting invites warmth and charm. A double sized bed has been added along with fresh linens and pillows bringing in a splash of color. Rich pink and gold silk material covers the newly added wall, which in turn, is the back of the kitchen wall. A host of pillows, varied in size and shades add a personal touch to the bed. Barbie’s vanity has been updated with a glass mirror, cushioned vanity seat and accessories. A large closet boasts plenty of room for clothing, shoes, hat boxes and a variety of necessary items. A quite corner shows off a bedroom lamp and memories of loved ones.
Design tip: Fabric can be used as an elegant wall covering to complement existing walls and tie into bedding (as seen below).
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Patio You know what they say about “All work and no play”?… Well, Barbie is no stranger to hosting parties. Step out onto the patio which has also been re-designed with comfortable seating and charm! With plenty of space to entertain, this area also has “sitting on the floor” pillows near the delightful fireplace. The wall ivy and wild roses are blooming as Barbie and friends enjoy a delightful evening of laughter and conversation! Our favorite gal deserves the best, don’t you think ? How will you redecorate your cherished Dream House? Imagine the possibilities!v
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Design tip: Woven fabrics and stripes give an outdoor room a more casual flair. Upgrade the cardboard chairs with real wood and upholstered seating for a new and up-to-date mid-century modern look.
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The Barbie Look The look? Quite simply– iconic in all of her many guises.
American Bend leg Brunette Sidepart wearing hand sewn floral Sheath with Open Road red sunglasses & royal blue closed toe pumps from Beautiful Blues gift set
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photography and styling by matthew sky
1960 #4 Brunette Barbie wearing a Baby Blue & White Stripe Premier swim suit carrying a wicker fruit tote black open toe shoes and original gold hoop earings
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this page: #5 Blond Ponytail 1961 wearing original Zebra swimsuit & Sunglasses with Open Road Hat & Scarf and earlier pony tail original gold hoop earings. opposite page: Midnight ColorMagic wearing Bloom Burst with rare matching bonnet and green hair clip. Ruby Color Magic wearing Fashion Fun 1966 pant suit with rasberry open toe shoes.
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Japanese Francie circa 1966 Wearing Turquoise Lace Kimono with Obi & Silver metallic purse all Japanese Issue 1967 with matching shoes.
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1965 Pale Blond American Girl wearing 1600 Pretty as Picture 1966 borrowing gloves from Campus Sweetheart & rare black spike heeled closed toe pumps.
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1962 vintage Bubblecut wearing early ponytail white sunglasses & pieces from the Sparkling Pink Giftset traveling with Samsonite bone luggage miniatures circa 1965. OPPOSITE PAGE: Titian Twist & Turn Barbie 1967 wearing (Sears exclusive1967) Red Fantastic with matching Marabou Caplet and open toe gold glitter shoes and matching gold clutch.
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BARCELONA BARBIE AND A FEW FRIENDS GO ON LOCATION TO HER HOME BASE– SPAIN– FOR SUN, SAND AND FUN WITH PHOTOGRAPHER ALEX FORBES!
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Barcelona Barbie wearing My Scene Barbie PIECES. www.fashiondollquarterly.com •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• 55
“Jazz Babie” Pivitol Barbie LETS HER HAID DOWN, wearing Fashion Fever mix and match 56 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
Teresa wearS Barcelona Barbie’S dress ON LOCATION.
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Robert Best Barcelona Barbie wearing Fashion Fever mix and match outfit
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Robert Best Southbeach Barbie wearing her own SWIMSUIT.
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Robert Best Southbeach Barbie wearing her own outfit. 60 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com
Teresa IS wearing A Peach Mix and Match Fashion Fever outfit
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Chic Sheath Pattern
pattern and photography courtesy of mattel It’s not often that we collectors get a chance to re-create a classic. FDQ is proud to present an exclusive pattern from the Mattel design atelier. Hollywood BoundTM Barbie® Doll, a 2007 Barbie Fan Club exclusive BFMC doll, is our model, wearing the original design as she strolls onto the set. Now, even if you are not a club member and were not able to get this stunning lady, you can recreate her timeless sheath in any color and fabric, using the official pattern. It’s the perfect fit for all your Silkstone Fashion Models! Print the pattern directly from this issue from your computer and you can use it over and over again to make endless variations of this very chic sheath! In addition, you can use the pieces to create a separate top and skirt for even more design possibilities.
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FDQ EXCLUSIVE PATTERN
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FDQ LAST LOOK
PHOTOGRAPH OF “BARBIE LEARNS TO COOK” COURTESY OF MATTEL Now that we have spent time in the dream house, and looked at the stylish Miss Roberts both now and then, we give you one more look at our favorite fashion model in another of her iconic fashions, “Barbie Learns To Cook”. In our Fifth Anniversary issue (shipping in October), we will have this very pattern, exclusively from Mattel, for you to create your own version of everyone’s favorite shirtwaist. Imagine the different looks that can be created in different fabrie, or with long sleeves or a full length skirt? And how often can you create a classic from the archives of the most famous toy company in the world? Be sure to pick up our next issue as well, the Autumn issue, HAIR, which ships in July.
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http://www.marlbe.com
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Oh my gosh: I can’t believe I won! http://www.barbiecollector.com
CAMPUS
CUTIE
This beautiful vintage reproduction Campus Sweetheart™ Barbie® doll wears a re-creation of a favorite Barbie® fashion from 1965 and is featured in window box packaging including original art from the “Barbie Goes to College” playset. Add this winner to your collection today. Visit BarbieCollector.com. http://www.barbiecollector.com
66 •FASHION DOLL QUARTERLY• www.fashiondollquarterly.com ©2008 Mattel, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Doll cannot stand alone. Doll cannot hold trophy on its own.