action TRAVEL
Into the Blue Southern Africa is blessed with many world-class dive spots, but there are a few that stand out from the rest. A scuba fanatic chooses five ultimate diving highs Text & photographs fiona ayerst
ba.com
december 2008
81
PREVIOUS PAGE Multicoloured wonderlands await below the waves THIS PAGE The fairy-tale find that is The Eye
Divers swim down green lily-stem ‘tunnels’ into a crystal chamber with prism-like light reflecting from all angles Snorkelling in the Red Sea was frustrating. The colours I could see far below me were so bright and luminous. I wanted to go deeper. Then my travelling companion gave me a gift that was to change my life: a scuba course. On my first dive, I squeezed my instructor’s hand tightly in rapture and awe. I spotted the most magnificent electric-blue fish with a bright crescent moon on its side, and made my instructor follow it around so that I could soak up its beauty. I was hooked. I know now that this a common semi-circle angelfish, but at the time it was my guide and a sign of things to come. Today, I photograph the underwater world for a living.
1
FRESH FIND
Southern Africa has several inland and freshwater dive spots. Many are submerged mine shafts, sinkholes and caves such as Wondergat, and often involve technical diving. But there is a spot that is simple to dive yet pretty special. At the origin of the Marico River, in Herman Charles Bosman country, lies Die Oog (or The Eye, in English). It’s a twohour drive southwest of Joburg in the Zeerust/ Lichtenburg area. This dive spot is a spring – a silent, crisp pool that reaches a depth of just 13 metres and produces 200 000 litres of clean, pure water a day. It is surrounded by lush plant life and massive lily pads supporting all kinds of bird and amphibian life. The waterlilies and
ba.com
moss that line it give it a ‘fairy grotto’ quality. The lily stems are up to five metres long and form green ‘tunnels’ that divers swim down to reach the main pool. It’s like entering into a crystal chamber, with prism-like light reflecting from all angles. The water is around 18˚C, but in summer it’s hot outside so a dive in this mystical, magical pool is a welcome relief. DIFFICULTY Easy diving – many inland divers do their first training dives here. DIVE WITH All About Scuba in Rustenburg, 018-462-6242, www.allaboutscuba.co.za. GOOD TO KNOW You can arrange to dive here directly with the farmer on whose land it is: Willie Muller, 014-252-2012. There are two basic, self-catering chalets for hire.
2
DIVE WITH A BITE
Around four hours south of Sodwana and 30 minutes’ drive from Durban is the Aliwal Shoal off Umkomaas. It has for many years been selected as one of the Top 10 dive sites in the world by various international dive magazines. From June to November, the ragged-tooth sharks (‘raggies’) congregate here to mate, and it’s not uncommon to find up to 50 of these ferocious-looking but docile beasts on a single dive. Some divers refer to raggies as ‘tadpoles with teeth’ and they do look like squadrons of tadpoles hanging in mid-water, barely moving. In summer, strikingly striped tiger sharks and schools of hammerheads also frequent the area, loving the warmer water. It’s not surprising that ‘The Shoal’ is becoming as
popular as Gansbaai in the Western Cape for its shark-diving; the major difference is that all dives here take place without cages. There are also two good wreck dives, one of which is home to the huge brindle bass. I’ve seen one as large as a Volksie Beetle swimming into its hiding hole in the Produce wreck. DIFFICULTY It’s quite an adrenaline rush, so best recommended for advanced divers, but there are beginner sites on The Shoal too. DIVE WITH For general reef dives, Aliwal Dive Centre, 039-973-2233, aliwalshoal.co.za. For wild tiger and black-tip shark action, contact Blue Wilderness Safaris, 039-976-1107, www. bluewilderness.co.za. GOOD TO KNOW Lala Manzi Inn (lalamanzi. co.za) has its own dive centre, a range of accommodation options, a fabulous verandah and is across the road from the golf course.
3
CHOICE ASSORTED
It is widely accepted that Sodwana Bay is the mecca of diving in South Africa. It’s in a marine reserve that now forms part of the World Heritage-classified Greater St Lucia Wetlands Park (or Isimangaliso). This area is famous for its safe and relaxed diving, with depths varying mostly from 12 to 18 metres. There is an abundance of subtropical fish, coral, sponges, moray eels, schools of pelagic (open-water) fish, many types of rays, potato bass, turtles (hawksbill, loggerhead, green and leatherback) and, depending on the time of year, whales, sharks and dolphins. Visibility
december 2008
11
‘The Shoal’ is becoming as popular as Gansbaai for shark-diving;
84
december 2008
horizons
the major difference is all the dives here take place without cages is rarely less than 12 metres, and the water temperature is a pleasant 19˚C (winter) to 24˚C+ (summer). Snorkelling with friendly dolphins remains a firm favourite among visitors. DIFFICULTY Suitable for all levels of diver. DIVE & STAY Sodwana Lodge has wooden chalets on stilts in tropical gardens. The resident dive master is Greg de Valle, 083-2290318, www.sodwanalodge.co.za. For whaleshark action, chat to Sam at Gypsea Centre, 083-772-2112, gypsea.co.za GOOD TO KNOW It’s possible to dive with whale sharks in the morning and see big cats on a game drive in the afternoon, at nearby reserves such as Hluhluwe-Imfolozi and Mkhuze, kznparks.com, or Phinda, phinda.com.
4
TROPICAL PUNCH
Top of the pops for colour, water clarity and warmth as well as the après-dive vibe is Inhambane on the Mozambiquan coast. It’s a jewel in this country’s crown, best known for the colourful fish life, and it’s easily accessible via an international airport. On land, Inhambane offers chilled beach living at its best: swaying coconut palms, soft white-sand beaches and hammocks abound. Here, humble backpacker places rub shoulders with exclusive lodges, and there is something for everyone – especially those who love diving. Of the many marine creatures found here, one of the most enigmatic is the gentle giant of the oceans, the whale shark. They are spotted almost all year round but are most abundant at the time of their annual migration towards India (November to February). Even non-divers can get in on the action; this area is world-famous for offering snorkelling with whale sharks. There is also the renowned Manta Reef, which is visited by up to 10 gigantic manta rays at a time. DIFFICULTY Most dive spots are suitable for beginners, but Manta Reef requires advanced certification due to its depth and currents. DIVE & STAY Guinjata Bay Resort, 25km south of Inhambane town and close to Manta Reef, 013-744-3830, guinjata.com. Five kilometres further is Jeff’s Palm Resort, 013-932-1263, www.jeffsmoz.com. Barra Dive Resorts has two options in Inhambane: Flamingo Bay and Barra Lodge, 011-314-3355, barraresorts.com GOOD TO KNOW All of these lodges offer PADI dive courses. Inhambane is a short flight from South Africa to its international airport.
5
THE WILD ONE
The southeastern coast of Africa has several idyllic islands that are regularly visited by tourists. One that is seldom visited is an atoll called Bassas da India. It sits in the middle of the Mozambique Channel and is a 48-hour sail (wind willing) from either Madagascar or Vilanculos in Mozambique. There is nowhere to stay on Bassas da India because for half of each day it is totally covered in water. The diving here is wild and unexplored. The atoll is washed continually with strong
ba.com
OPPOSITE The reef ecology in Sodwana Bay’s cooler, subtropical waters differs from Mozambique’s tropical sea, despite both being in the Indian Ocean ABOVE Star-gazing takes on new meaning on the coast of Inhambane
acurrents and as a result the water is oxygen- and nutrient-rich. It’s paradise untamed for thousands of marine animals – goldies, hawkfish, clownfish, angelfish and masses of potato bass. The sea water is like a swimming pool’s, which belies the fact that there are many sharks patrolling the depths. I’ve sat on the deck of a dive boat here and watched sharks swim under the boat as deep as 30 metres, so clean and clear is the water. There are said to be approximately 130 wrecks around the atoll, and some of these can be seen perched on the rocks. When the tide is out, it’s possible to take a stroll on the tiny island but amphibious shoes are recommended as the rocks are sharp. DIFFICULTY For very experienced, confident divers only, who have at least 200 dives under their weight-belts. DIVE & STAY On a catamaran, departing from Mozambique – if you can find one. There are very few operators currently taking divers to Bassas. Try Shelley and Craig Garratt, who run their yacht Sarah to the atoll at certain times of the year for diving and fishing, 082-602-7020/082-603-1568, sarah.co.za. GOOD TO KNOW The trip across can be windy and turbulent. Once there, the boat anchors in the flatter water of tiny ‘bays’. Still, this is not a trip for those prone to seasickness.
december 2008
11