Notes on Japanese Cuisine- Revised Edition 2021 by Fenneko

Notes on Japanese Cuisine Revised Edition 2021

Holly Granken

The original introduction to Notes on Japanese Cuisine by Katsumata Senkichiro and published by the Japan Tourist Bureau is in dire need of updating. It is lled with outdated information based on very outdated notions of both travellers (as opposed to “tourists” as they are referred to in the original copy) and Japan itself. I propose that this booklet not be aimed at those tourists who want to “travel carrying their homes with them…”- in other words those who seek the familiarity of the things/places/food they have back home- wherever that may be. Generally, people do not travel to experience what they already know. According to his essay entitled "Why Tourists Travel”, Donald E. Lundberg, PhD states that travel can ful l many needs; to experience beauty and wonder, to rest or to seek excitement, to challenge oneself, as a spiritual journey, and to sharpen one’s perspective on life. In 2009, British philosopher Alain de Botton spent a week at Heathrow airport observing the comings and goings of travellers. He suggests that travellers must ask their destinations to help them “feel more generous, less afraid, always curious.” It is my thought that this booklet should be targeted at the traveller who has come for a truly Japanese experience, which is something that should be available to anyone who wants it, regardless of budget. Therefore I will be including a section on konbini (Japanese convenience stores) which are a way to experience a wide variety of Japanese food and to truly eat like a local for very little money. I will also rewrite the section on soba. Soba is a very integral part of Japanese culture, but the information found in the original text is full of outdated ideas and would be a deterrent to anyone seeking more information on soba today. Finally, I will also include a section on sushi, a dish that can feature raw sh, something the original text deemed “dangerous because [it] may repel and disgust” a so-called beginner in Japanese cuisine. Since sushi is so commonly associated with Japan, and can be quite a big deal, I say to those who would be “repelled” or “disgusted” by it to, quite literally, go

big, or go home.

The very rst thing to understand about sushi is that it does not mean “raw sh”. Sushi actually refers to vinegared rice served with a variety of llings or toppings including vegetables, raw sh, and eggs. Sushi was originally used as a means of preservation and only eaten during feast days and festivals. Using fermented rice, sh could be stored for up to a year, a technique that originated in China between the 5th and 3rd century BC. In this method, known as narezushi, the rice was only used as packaging. It was thrown away while only the sh was consumed. In the 16th century, a di erent variant called namanarezushi, using vinegared rice to preserve the sh was introduced. This time the rice was consumed along with the sh instead of discarded. This is similar to nigirizushi, which is the form of sushi most of us are familiar with today. Nigirizushi rst appeared around 1800. Back then it looked very di erent, with a piece of raw sh laid on a bed of vinegared rice approximately the size of a small baseball.

Nigirizushi grew in popularity even though many regions throughout the country were experiencing severe hunger and food shortages. It was seen as a luxury item and eaten during celebrations, yet it also lent itself to frugality as the rice served not only as a preservation device, but was eaten as well. At rst, sushi was bought from sellers who walked the streets carrying their wares in boxes, but over time, permanent stalls appeared where people would gather to eat sushi.

In 1870, the country opened its borders to the rest of the world. The Meiji period brought railway travel, and sushi began featuring in railway station bento. It was at this time that di erent regional recipes as well as other forms of sushi began to develop like makizushi (rolled sushi) from Kansai.

Good sushi involves selecting quality ingredients at their seasonal best, and enjoying their natural avours. These ingredients had to be kept fresh and its preparation required specialised skills and knowledge. With the advent of refrigeration, these ingredients were

easier to keep fresh, especially raw sh, and its use became more and more widespread.

Sushi

Here is a quick guide to the di erent types of sushi available.

Nigirizushi: The most common type of sushi available today. It is a small serving of ngershaped vinegared rice, topped with raw or cooked sh or shell sh, served with wasabi.

Makizushi: This is rolled sushi. Inside is a lling of vegetables or sh, wrapped in vinegared rice, which is then wrapped in nori (seaweed), and cut into bite sized pieces. A variant of this is the California roll, where the position of the nori and the rice are swapped.

Gunkanmaki: This translates as “battleship roll”. A portion of nger-shaped vinegared rice is wrapped in a strip of nori so that the topping of sh roe can be placed on top without risk of falling o . The end result is said to resemble a battleship.

Temakizushi: Hand-rolled sushi, a popular choice for dinner parties. Vinegared rice is spread on a square of nori, llings are added, and everything is rolled together in a cone shape.

Chirashizushi: Translates to “scattered sushi”. It is vinegared rice typically topped with raw

sh, served in a bowl.

Types of Sushi

Inarizushi: Vinegared rice is served in a pocket of abura-age (deep fried tofu). Inari are the fox gods of the Shinto religion and are reputed to adore abura-age, so the dish is named for them.

There are some general dos and don’ts when it comes to eating sushi. It is generally acceptable to eat most sushi with your hands if you like, although chopsticks are usually provided. When dipping your sushi into soy sauce, only dip the topping- never dip the rice. Sushi should also be eaten in a single bite, and not placed back down once it has been picked up. Sushi should also be eaten as soon as possible after it is made. This is why in many ne sushi restaurants, the chef will make the pieces one at a time, not making the next one until

you are ready to eat it.

Soba

It must be noted to the publisher that the section on soba in the original text is not only far too long, but it has a strange habit of referring to soba alternatively as “macaroni”. Not once in my research have I come across the use of this term in reference to soba, so I am leaving it out.

The history of soba dates back to the Jomon period, (14,000-300BC) where it was consumed in the form of something similar to a dumpling or a cracker. The noodle form of soba we all know today was developed during the Edo period. (1603-1868). While the details of the soba noodle’s development are varied, there is record noted in a haiku collection from the Edo period that states that soba was developed in Nagano prefecture. From there it spread to Edo (present-day Tokyo) and because it was easy to make and inexpensive, became a popular fast food item. Evidence of soba’s existence and wide-spread popularity can be noted in several ukiyo-e prints from the Edo period as well.

There are many long-established soba restaurants in Tokyo today, with some still displaying their original noren, (the short curtain that hangs above the entrance) some of which are more than 300 years old. In 2019 the Tokyo 2:8 soba initiative was established. This organisation recognises soba restaurants in Tokyo that are maintaining and promoting authentic soba traditions in terms of ingredients, preparation, and presentation. As of December 2019, there were 516 shops in Tokyo a liated with this initiative.

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Soba is a dish that can be prepared in a variety of ways. It can be eaten hot or cold, usually dependant on the weather, and as soba’s popularity spread, each region perfected their own signature dish. Here are a few of the di erent types of soba you can enjoy throughout the country.

Mori/Zaru Soba (cold)

Basic chilled soba served on a tray with a dipping sauce of soup stock, water, and mirin served on the side.

Kake Soba (hot)

Soba noodles served in hot clear broth.

Kitsune Soba (hot or cold)

Served with a piece of abura-age on top. Kitsune is the Japanese word for fox. Just like inarizushi, this dish is named for the fox gods associated with the Shinto religion.

Tanuki Soba (hot or cold)

This soba is served with crunchy bits of friend tempura batter.

Tempura Soba (hot or cold)

In this dish, the soba noodles are served on a tray along with a side of three to ve di erent

kinds of tempura.

Tsukimi Soba (hot)

The name of this dish translates to “moon watching” and is served with a raw egg, meant to resemble the moon.

Tororo Soba (hot or cold)

Soba noodles with grated raw yam served either on the side or presented on top.

Sansai Soba (hot)

Soba noodles served with cooked wild vegetables.

Nanban Soba (hot)

The soup portion of this dish is typically avoured with leeks and either chicken or duck stock.

While Japan o ers a wide variety of amazing food that should not be missed, experiencing it all can be quite expensive. A perfect way to save money is to visit one of Japan’s many konbini or convenience stores. Unlike many similar shops in other parts of the world, Japanese konbini o er a vast array of cheap and sometimes even healthy snacks and complete meals. You can nd onigiri, (rice balls often stu ed with sh), sandwiches, bento, instant ramen, fried chicken, nikuman (steamed pork buns), oden (Japanese sh stew), anpan (buns lled with sweet red bean paste), gyudon (beef served on rice), and salads. You can also purchase sweets, side dishes, and drinks, including alcohol, and most are open twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week.

Konbini date back to the 1960s and 1970s, and was an idea brought over from the United States. The rst, a Super-7, now a 7Eleven, opened in Tokyo in May 1974, and soon more konbini spread throughout the country. 7-Eleven is Japan’s top chain with over 20,000 stores, followed by Lawson, and FamilyMart. There are other smaller chains like Sunkus, Circle K, Coco Store, Ministop, Daily Yamazaki, AM/PM Japan, and Seico Mart. Lawson has even opened a sub-chain called Natural Lawson that sells healthy and organic items.

One of the most important things to know about konbini is that the food they sell has never been hanging out on the shelves for days at a time. Most stores get a delivery of fresh food items three times a day- once for each meal. With a large part of the population visiting a konbini at least three times a week, there is nothing stopping a traveller with even the smallest

budget from eating like a true local.

Konbini

Where To Eat

Below is a list of sushi restaurants, soba restaurants, and konbini to help guide your way through Japan’s culinary landscape.

Sushi Tokyo

Genki Sushi; cheap and tasty conveyor belt style sushi with several locations.

143-0023 Tokyo, Ota-ku, 2-5-9 Sanno

173-0014, Itabashi-ku, Tokyo Oyamahigashi cho, 20-4-52

210-0006, Kawasaki-shi, Kanagawa-ken, Kawasaki Isago 2-6-22

Sushi Shokunin Hatano Yoshiki; hand-formed sushi located in Azabu-Juban.

3F, Toriizaka Annex, 5-11-25, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo

Kyoto

Musashi Sushi; inexpensive, conveyor belt style.

440 Ebisucho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-8005, Kyoto Prefecture

Soba Hokkaido

Mimi; fresh hand-pulled soba made daily.

4F, Kamiya Bldg., 9, Minami 3-jo Nishi 4, Chuo-ku, Sapporo-shi, Hokkaido

Nagoya

Ishiusubiki Soba Ishizuki; inexpensive and refreshing.

B1, 3-28-12 Meieki, Nakamura-ku, Nagoya, Aichi

Tokyo

Kanda Yabu Soba; serves seasonal ingredients, in business for more than 100 years.

Japan, 〒101-0063 Tokyo, Chiyoda City, Kanda Awajicho, 2 Chome−１０

Konbini Tokyo

Lawson

2 Chome-23-14 Higashiazabu, Minato City, Tokyo 106-0044, Japan

Natural Lawson

3 Chome-7-13 Higashiazabu, Minato City, Tokyo 106-0044, Japan

Kyoto

7-Eleven

9-1 Utanobabacho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8202, Japan

Hiroshima

FamilyMart

1 Chome-5-17 Sakaimachi, Naka Ward, Hiroshima, 730-0853, Japan

References

Lundberg, D.E. (1972). Why Tourists Travel. Cornell Hotel and Restaurant Administration Quarterly, 12(4), 64-70. http://doi.org/10.1177/00108804720120041 Kazato, M. (n.d.). Eat-Japan. EatJapan. Retrieved December 5, 2021, from https://www.eatjapan.com/sushi-perfect/sushi-knwoledge/sushi-history/. Prebensen, N. K., Chen, J. S., & Uysal, M. S. (Eds.). (2021). Creating experience value in tourism. CABI PUBLISHING. Rath, E. C., & Assmann, S. (2010). Japanese foodways, past and present. University of Illinois Press. Senkichiro, K. (1946). Notes on Japanese cuisine. Japan Tourist Bureau. Wang, Y., & Pearce, P. L. (2011). Chapter 3. In Destination Marketing and management: Theories and applications (pp. 39–42). essay, CAB International. Japanese convenience stores konbini. Japanese Convenience Stores Konbini | JapanVisitor Japan Travel Guide. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2021, from https://www.japanvisitor.com/ japanese-culture/convenience-stores. Shinshu soba noodles: Authentic Japanese product. JAPAN BRAND. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2021, from https://japan-brand.jnto.go.jp/foods/noodles/2801/. Soba noodles. Japan Travel and Living Guide. (n.d.). Retrieved December 5, 2021, from https:// www.japan-guide.com/e/e2341.html.

The Ultimate Guide to konbini: Japanese Convenience Stores. byFood. (2021, November 2). Retrieved December 5, 2021, from https://www.byfood.com/blog/culture/guide-tokonbini-japanese-convenience-stores.