food
Revolutionary Recipes In keeping with the Independence Day celebration, we refer to 'Revolutionary' in a purely historical sense. Practically speaking, these recipes evolved with foods that were ripe and available around July 4th in the 18th century. In pre-colonial America, salmon were plentiful, and typically migrated up the New England rivers in early summer. This was an easy source of protein for settlers. Peas and potatoes were ready to eat by the end of June, which added flavor and variety to the meal. Naturally, as America was instituting its first national holiday, these foods became attached to it and the tradition carries on today. Legend tells us John and Abigail Adams served this menu at their home July 4, 1776, but many think that's just a good story to sell more salmon. Still, if you're worried about losing your Southerner card, just consider them "refreshingly seasonal" summer foods.
4TH OF JULY SALMON WITH EGG SAUCE SALMON
• 1 whole salmon with its head (about 8 pounds)
EGG SAUCE
• 6 tbsp butter • 6 tbsp flour
• 1-½ cups hot fish stock or salmon-steaming broth • 1-½ cups milk • salt
• ¼ cup chopped celery
• freshly ground pepper
• ¼ cup chopped carrot
• Tabasco sauce
• 1 scallion, chopped
• lemon juice
• 2 bay leaves
• 3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
• salt
• 1 tsp minced fresh dill or chervil
In a fish steamer or a pan large enough to hold the fish whole, place the salmon on a rack and pour in boiling water to just beneath the rack, it should not touch the fish. Add vegetables and bay leaves, sprinkle well with salt. Cover the pan (can use heavy-duty aluminum foil), if necessary. Steam about 45 minutes, adding more water if it threatens to boil away.
• 2 tbsp fresh chopped parsley Melt butter in heavy saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook over low heat, stirring 2-3 min. Add 1 cup fish stock of the steaming liquid from the poached salmon. Return to heat, stir until sauce thickens. Add milk, whisk until smooth. Season to taste with salt, pepper, Tabasco, and lemon juice. Fold in chopped eggs and herbs. Heat through.
Put the salmon on a platter, remove the skin, and coat with a little of the egg sauce, passing the rest in a bowl. Serve with steamed new potatoes and garden peas cooked in a little boiling water until just tender. Serves 12 or more. 26
