The joy of remoteness PICO IYER, ESSAYIST AND NOVELIST
The joy of travel has always involved getting away from it all, but never has the very notion of escape seemed quite as liberating as it does today. I remember stepping out of my room in a little motel on Easter Island—on the last day of the last millennium—and just walking across its empty lawns to where the sea crashed against black volcanic rocks. I could feel the stillness of the loneliest inhabited place on earth, with our nearest neighbours 1,300 miles away on Pitcairn Island (population 65). I think of the month I once spent in a modest, 11-room Tibetan guest-house in the foothills of the Himalayas, one of whose attractions was that the phones went dead even when the electricity (occasionally) stayed live. Even in modern Iceland, I have sat on a treeless hillside in mid-June, the sun not due to set for 2,400 hours, and heard the wind whistling in my ears as if calling me to an alternative dimension. In an age of acceleration, nothing is so cherished as slowness. In an age of distraction, nothing can make us as happy as a feeling of absorption, of being lost in the scene around us. And in an age of fragmentation, nothing leaves us feeling richer—more ourselves—than lingering over a single point in a single place. I’m not surprised that so many of my friends these days are perpetually on the lookout: not for hip hotels, or seven-star hotels, or boutique hotels in which each room is curated by a different artist, but simply for remote hotels—or guest-houses, or sanctuaries, or monasteries—where you can collect your thoughts and feel and hear the world around and inside you again. I remember the first time I drove up the one-lane coastal road three hours from my home to a Catholic hermitage a friend had recommended. I’m no Catholic—and not always a hermit—but as soon as I stepped into my small, but comfortable room, with its own private walled garden, and long picture windows looking out over the Pacific Ocean 1,200 feet below, surrounded by silence, I felt more restored than when I’ve stayed in some of the world’s plushest establishments. A blue jay landed on my fence, and I was transfixed, all my senses awakened by the stillness. Every few hours, a bell tolled up above me, but I felt as though it was tolling inside me. I took walks after dark, and watched the red blinking lights of planes among more stars than I could begin to count. When I awoke, in the absence of beeping machines, the day seemed to stretch before me for a thousand hours. It’s not hard (or expensive) to go to the New Camaldoli hermitage in Big Sur, California, I tell friends—I’ve been back more than 60 times in the past 22 years, sometimes staying for as long as three weeks. But if circumstances don’t allow you to do so, there will undoubtedly be somewhere offering remoteness very nearby, wherever you happen to be. I’ve stayed in retreat-houses in central Japan and Western Australia and just outside London; I’ve also relished unforgettable nights in a little guest-house next to the lofty rock-churches of Lalibela in Ethiopia, in the peace of a tiny island in Alaska, and even in a crowded Greek holiday spot above a remote taverna. The more space you have around you, the more space you discover within yourself. The less you have in the room, the more you have to bring to others. And the fewer worries you have, the wealthier you feel, in the deepest sense. Years ago, I noticed something interesting. Whenever I took myself to a remote hotel, there were a thousand reasons not to go. I felt guilty about not spending the time with my mother, my bosses were emailing me with reminders of a hundred pressing deadlines, and I would miss my old friend’s birthday party. As soon as I arrived, though, I wondered what I could have been thinking: it was only by taking myself to a place of clarity and seclusion that I could begin to muster anything joyous, generous and refreshed to bring back to my mother, my bosses or my friend. Remoteness offers us the greatest reward of all: reminding us of what we care about, deep down, and showing us how and where to find it.
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places to stay 01
p.12
02
p.26
03
p.40
04
p.52
SNAEFELLSNES, ICELAND
LYNGEN ALPS, NORWAY
BERNER OBERLAND, SWITZERLAND
SANTO STEFANO DI SESSANIO, ITALY
HOTEL BUDIR
LYNGEN LODGE
HOTEL BELLEVUE DES ALPES
SEXTANTIO ALBERGO DIFFUSO
09
p.106
10
p.124
11
p.136
12
p.154
PAGE, UTAH, USA
NATIONAL PARK WRANGELLST. ELIAS, ALASKA, USA
FOGO ISLAND, NEWFOUNDLAND, CANADA
PATAGONIA, CHILE
AMANGIRI
ULTIMA THULE LODGE
FOGO ISLAND INN
ESTANCIA CERRO GUIDO
17
p.230
18
p.248
19
p.262
20
p.272
NAPIER, NEW ZEALAND
COLES BAY, TASMANIA
ESPIRITU SANTO, VANUATU
SAHARA, MOROCCO
CAPE KIDNAPPERS
SAFFIRE FREYCINET
RATUA PRIVATE ISLAND
DAR AZAWAD DUNE CAMP
05
p.62
06
p.72
p.86
07
08
p.94
SOUTH TYROL, ITALY
APULIA, ITALY
MARATHI ISLAND, GREECE
MUHU ISLAND, ESTONIA
PENSION BRIOL
CONVENTO DI SANTA MARIA DI CONSTANTI NOPOLI
PANTELIS MARATHI
PÄDASTE MANOR
13
p.166
14
p.182
p.196
15
16
p.214
TE MIRO OONE, EASTER ISLAND
CENTRAL MONGOLIA
BHUTAN
SHANGRI-LA, CHINA
POSADA DE MIKE RAPU
JALMAN MEADOWS GER CAMP
AMANKORA
SONGTSAM LODGES
21
p.282
22
p.296
KALAHARI DESERT, BOTSWANA
NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE, NAMIBIA
JACK’S CAMP
WOLWEDANS
$ $$ $$$ $$$$
AFFORDABLE REMOTENESS REMOTENESS WITH A TOUCH OF CLASS SOPHISTICATED REMOTENESS EXCLUSIVE REMOTENESS
Hotel Budir
Snaefellsnes Iceland
12
SNAEFELLSNES — ICELAND
HOTEL BUDIR
01 ELEGANT AND ROMANTIC
ARCHITECT
Kári Eiríksson
13
N 64°49’15” W 23°23’17”
Hotel Budir
Snaefellsnes Iceland
14
Hotel Budir Snaefellsnes Iceland
16 top
right
The west coast of Iceland is characterised by the rugged landscape, dotted with quiet and isolated villages.
An archetypal Icelandic chapel, as intensely black as the lava fields that surround and protect it.
Hotel Budir
Snaefellsnes Iceland
17
HOTEL BUDIR SNAEFELLSNES ICELAND
THE PLACE With the Atlantic literally a few metres away, Hotel Budir is perhaps the only real beachfront hotel in Iceland. It lies next to a lava field, with views over the Snaefellsnes glacier, and on a summer’s evening – when fires are lit on the beach and guests go swimming – it’s a surreal place. The Snaefellsnes peninsula in West Iceland is a rustic idyll with a handful of farms, villages and small churches scattered across this vast landscape. The hotel takes its name from the nearby Budir estuary, which wends its way down to Faxafloi bay, where a harem of seals live and play.
AIRPORT
PRICE RANGE
ROOMS
IN JULY AVERAGE BETWEEN 10°C (50°F) AND 15°C (60°F)
KEFLAVIK 220 KM
$
38 ROOMS
IN JANUARY AVERAGE BETWEEN -2°C (28°F) AND 2°C (36°F)
ACCOMMODATION While the lunar-esque environment feels like another planet, the hotel is about making you feel right at home. Large windows make it is possible to take in the natural beauty of the surroundings from the comfort of the lounge, where a fire blazes merrily in the hearth. The terrace opens for the summer months when bonfire parties take place on the beach directly in front of the hotel. The bedrooms are spread throughout the building, and a firm favourite is number 28: an attic room with a balcony overlooking the ocean. It also has a skylight, and in winter (if you are lucky) you may catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. In the library there’s a hefty but remarkable tome entitled Dyrariki Islands teiknao by Benedikt Grondal. At the end of the 19th century, this Icelandic author captured the rich diversity of his country’s wildlife in his drawings and this book is number 329 of a limited edition of 1,500, published in his honour. ON THE MENU The bar has a friendly atmosphere and an Icelandic barman with up-to-the-minute knowledge of current trends in alcoholic beverages. After a full day out hotel guests gravitate towards the cosy restaurant where delicious, regional dishes are made using local produce – even the vegetable oil is sourced directly from the farm. Breakfast is an unpretentious affair consisting of marinated salmon, herring, Icelandic flatbread and rúgbrauð (a dark, slightly sweet rye bread) served with locally-made jams – simple but certainly hearty enough to set you up for a day’s trek through the rugged Icelandic scenery. MUST-DO The Snaefellsnes region has an incredibly diverse landscape that is worth exploring – volcanoes, craters, glaciers and a seemingly never-ending coastline. Don’t miss walking across the lava field (it’s right next to the hotel after all). And other exciting seasonal activities include whale spotting, ocean fishing, or exploring inland volcanoes by jeep.
18 right
The intimate interior of Hotel Budir, keeping the biting, Atlantic winds at bay.
www.hotelbudir.is
THE STORY The story of Hotel Budir began in 1947, when the Snaefellsnes and Hnappdalur Residents Association opened it as a venue for members to gather during summer. It functioned as a place to eat, drink, relax and generally make merry, which they did. At the extremely popular ‘Budir Meets’ in the original hotel the gramophone would play late into the night and the dance floor was always full. Sadly, in 2001, the hotel burned down in a fire caused by an electrical fault (fortunately no one was injured). It didn’t take long for the owners to decide it was worth rebuilding and the new Hotel Budir opened in 2003. Although now owned by an Icelandic businessman, the hotel is still managed by a dedicated team who have worked there for years. The same goes for the guests, many are loyal regulars who see Hotel Budir as a place of retreat and make annual return visits.
CLIMATE
Hotel Budir
Snaefellsnes Iceland
19
20 top
A cosy living room atmosphere, with a view across the rugged landscape of the Snaefellsnes glacier and the Atlantic.
21
top
Inspirational Icelandic cloud formations, above Hotel Budir.
Hotel Budir
Snaefellsnes Iceland
22
left
Powdery snow blankets a lonely road in West Iceland. right
The native Icelandic horses have no difficulty braving a wintery snow shower. They can be spotted all across the island.
Hotel Budir Snaefellsnes Iceland
23
Lyngen Lodge
Lyngen Alps Norway
26
LYNGEN ALPS — NORWAY
LYNGEN LODGE
02 NORWEGIAN CONGENIALITY
ARCHITECT
Graham Austick, Overbygg
27
N 69°44’23” E 20°30’56”
Lyngen Lodge
Lyngen Alps Norway
28
LYNGEN LODGE LYNGEN ALPS NORWAY
THE PLACE The Lyngen Alps are a compact but enchanting mountain range that, at a northerly latitude of 69º 40’, are the gateway to Arctic Europe. The range stretches for more than ninety kilometres along the Lyngen Fjord, on the peninsular of the same name. To the south they reach almost as far as the Swedish border, while to the north they tumble into the cold Arctic Ocean – with nothing else on the horizon until the North Pole. The region is home to a mere 3,200 souls, made up of Norwegians, Finns and local Sami people. For winter sports enthusiasts seeking something a little different to the traditional European Alps, the Lyngen peninsular is a hidden gem. The location, 300 kilometres above the Arctic Circle, offers a unique environment and atmosphere. In winter (the polar winter lasts until about mid-January) there is the amazing spectacle of the Northern Lights, and the midnight sun from April onwards means ultra-long summer days.
30 right
The view over Lyngen Fjord from the living room of the lodge, with a telescope at the ready in case a humpback whale is spotted.
AIRPORT
PRICE RANGE
ROOMS
IN JULY AVERAGE BETWEEN 6°C (42°F) AND 26°C (78°F)
TROMSØ 110 KM
$$
8 ROOMS AND SUITES
IN JANUARY AVERAGE BETWEEN -11°C (11°F) AND 5°C (41°F)
ACCOMMODATION Lyngen Lodge is a luxury version of an extremely large log cabin. Graham designed the lodge but left building works and technical details to a local contractor, so the house is constructed from Norwegian pine using traditional building methods. Geothermal heating ensures that it always feels warm and cosy inside, and the grass roof provides natural insulation. In the lounge, where a log fire burns continuously, enormous windows for gazing out over the fjords below definitely add a wow-factor. In the evenings, having left their heavy ski boots at the door, guests walk around in felt slippers, enjoying an aperitif and admiring the fabulous views. The rooms are not overly large but very comfortable, and decorated with wood panelling and a soft colour palette. The large, outdoor Jacuzzi is the perfect place to marvel at the spectacular Northern Lights, while submerged in bubbling warm water. ON THE MENU With such wonderful local ingredients at their disposal, there’s no need for the chefs to go over the top in creating delicious dishes. There’s King crab from around the corner, or freshly caught fish bought back by the guides – not to mention aromatic loaves of freshly baked bread. A warmwater current of about 5°C keeps the ocean waters ice-free here. So in addition to catfish and haddock, cod – sometimes weighing as much as 25 kilos – may be caught. The Norwegians are passionate about fishing, and as a visitor you are more than welcome to join them and cast a line. MUST-DO Graham takes his guests to the Sorbmegaisa and Store Haugen Mountains, not far from the lodge. Here, at a height of 1,200 metres, you will find wide-open spaces and uninterrupted views of the fjord. If you are going skiing, you will be taken to the foot of the mountain on the Spirit of Lyngen, a fast, high-tech boat specially designed to transport skiers and their equipment.
www.lyngenlodge.com
Aside from the magnificent landscape of the Lyngen Alps, there is another good reason to visit: Lyngen Lodge. By combining their expert knowledge of skiing and flair for design, a young Englishman called Graham Austick and his Norwegian business partner, Elisabeth, have created a luxurious hideaway at the most northerly point of Europe. Graham, who previously lived in Sankt Anton in Austria, discovered this place when on a skiing trip; it was love at first sight. He asked himself what it might be like to bring other skiers to experience this virgin mountain territory and offer them a comfortable place to stay. In answer to this question he bought a piece of land – and the rest, as they say, is history. This small-scale hotel can accommodate a maximum of sixteen guests, many of whom stay for a week or less. Guests come to ski, appreciate nature, or see the Northern Lights and quickly become acquainted – either through organised activities, or around the communal, refectory-style dining table where refined, typically Norwegian dishes are served. THE STORY
CLIMATE
Lyngen Lodge
Lyngen Alps Norway
31
below
right
After a day outside in the vast expanse of nature, warm up in the Nordic chic of the Lyngen Lodge bedrooms.
Lyngen Lodge: 100% Norwegian atmosphere, menu and design.
Lyngen Lodge Lyngen Alps Norway
32
Lyngen Lodge
Lyngen Alps Norway
33
Lyngen Lodge Lyngen Alps Norway
34 top
Skiers are taken on the super-fast Spirit of Lyngen ski boat to the foot of the mountain at 70째 north.
Lyngen Lodge Lyngen Alps Norway
35
below
Graham Austick’s shot of an extreme mountain peak in the Lyngen Alps, one of the best kept secrets in Norway.
Lyngen Lodge
Lyngen Alps Norway
37
Lyngen Lodge Lyngen Alps Norway
38
left-right
The Northern Lights play out in clear night skies above Lyngen Lodge.
Lyngen Lodge
Lyngen Alps Norway
39
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes
Berner Oberland Switzerland
40
BERNER OBERLAND — SWITZERLAND
HIGH ALTITUDE ALPINE ROMANCE
ARCHITECT
Andreas von Almen
41
N 46°35’07” E 7°57’71”
Berner Oberland, Switzerland
03
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes
HOTEL BELLEVUE DES ALPES
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes
Berner Oberland Switzerland
42
HOTEL BELLEVUE DES ALPES BERNER OBERLAND SWITZERLAND
AIRPORT
PRICE RANGE
ROOMS
IN JULY AVERAGE BETWEEN 14°C (57°F) AND 19°C (66°F)
ZURICH 140 KM
$$$
50 ROOMS
IN JANUARY AVERAGE BETWEEN -1,5°C (30°F) AND 4°C (40°F)
THE STORY Andreas von Almen, an architect from Bern, and his wife Sylvia, a flautist, are currently at the helm. Having taken over from Andreas’s aunt, this couple are the fifth generation of the von Almen family to run the hotel and they have restored it with sensitivity, maintaining a sense of nostalgia without it ever feeling tired or dated. Aunt von Almen seldom threw anything away (the mountain was too high, and the valley too far!) so Andreas and Sylvia were delighted to discover many beautiful old pieces – and give them a new lease of life. Enter through the hotel’s revolving doors and it feels as if you have been transported back in time. Reaching the rooms requires ascending a creaky, winding staircase, and walking along corridors lined with old photographs – which tell the story of the hotel and the Alpinist pioneers who once stayed there. ACCOMMODATION It is because the character of Bellevue des Alpes evokes the early days of Alpinism that this hotel has been recognised for its historical value to Switzerland. The Hotel Bellevue and the annex des Alpes have fifty rooms in total, each with a spectacular view of the Eiger and all decorated in fin-de-siècle style. Bedroom walls are decorated with soft Toile De Jouy, depicting summery scenes of déjeuners sur l’herbe and adventurous hot air balloon rides. Many of the rooms still have the original baths (now reconditioned) complete with original taps and cast-iron feet. The only modern touch in some of the rooms is showers by the Danish company Vola. There is neither sauna nor spa, and a ‘wellness treatment’ means taking a long, hot bath after dinner while surveying the glory of the Alps. In summer this can be done with windows flung open but in winter it’s cosier keeping them firmly shut – stormy winds of up to 200 km per hour have been known to rage around the hotel. ON THE MENU A perfect winter’s evening at Bellevue des Alpes begins with an aperitif in the bar accompanied by jazz strains, followed by a five-course dinner from a classic menu. And every one of the mouth-watering dishes is served on antique silverware and vintage Victorian-style porcelain. Lunch happens on the expansive terrace where hotel guests and passers-by consume hearty salads, raclette cheese and steaming bowls of soup. In summer breakfast is served on a sheltered private terrace overlooking the north face of the Eiger.
44 right
The only way to reach the historic Hotel Bellevue des Alpes is either by the mountain’s tourist train, on foot or on skis.
MUST-DO The hotel’s isolated location is the antithesis of chalet parties and après-ski ambiance and guests come here for peace, solitude, and the pure mountain air. Taking the train to the Jungfraujoch railway station is an absolute must for any rail enthusiast, and skiing, hiking and mountain biking take place on the car-free plateau between Interlaken, Grindelwald and Wengen.
www.scheidegg-hotels.ch
THE PLACE Hotel Bellevue des Alpes is only accessible by train. On the Kleine Scheidegg mountain pass, which sits at an altitude of 2,070 metres and leads to this historic hotel, there is not a car in sight. And the only tourists are those on the train, passing through on their way to the railway station at Jungfraujoch – dubbed The Top of Europe and sitting even higher at 3,454 metres. Bellevue des Alpes is a bastion of oldfashioned glamour and class encircled by three mountain giants: the Eiger, the Jungfrau and the Monch. So it’s not surprising that the breathtaking views are entirely dominated by the Alps. Blanketed in snow during winter and a sea of green in summer, this mountainous backdrop has served as location for films such as The Eiger Sanction (starring Clint Eastwood) and North Face with Benno Furmann. Around the mid 19th century, Alpinism gained momentum with local guides taking British visitors to climb the region’s peaks. And as a result, many big names in mountaineering history have stayed in the hotel. In 1908 the first Alpine cable car opened on the Wetterhorn mountain nearby and in 1912 railway tracks made it up to Jungfraujoch, which remains the highest train station in Europe.
CLIMATE
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes
Berner Oberland Switzerland
45
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes
Immerse yourself in the nostalgia of a bygone era with just the right amount of Alpine finesse. top right
The birthplace of alpinism, Kleine Scheidegge is a regular favourite of the Japanese Alpine Club from Tokyo.
Berner Oberland Switzerland
top left
46
right
The creaking wooden staircase in Hotel Bellevue des Alpes speaks volumes.
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes
Berner Oberland Switzerland
47
left-right
Delicate Toile De Jouy on the walls, and soft carpet or creaking floorboards underfoot.
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes
The only modern accents in some bathrooms are Vola taps and Alvar Aalto 60 stools.
Berner Oberland Switzerland
left
48
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes
Berner Oberland Switzerland
49
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes Berner Oberland Switzerland
50 top
The fifth generation of the von Almen family now running the hotel keep tradition alive on their secluded mountain top.
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes
Berner Oberland Switzerland
51
SANTO STEFANO DI SESSANIO — ITALY
SEXTANTIO ALBERGO DIFFUSO SA
04 MEDIAEVAL HIDEAWAY
52
N 42°21’0” E 13°37’60”
ARCHITECT
Oriano Associati Architetti
Sextantio Albergo Diffuso
Santo Stefano di Sessanio Italy
53
Sextantio Albergo Diffuso
Santo Stefano di Sessanio Italy
54
SEXTANTIO ALBERGO DIFFUSO
CLIMATE
AIRPORT
PRICE RANGE
ROOMS
IN JULY AVERAGE BETWEEN 18°C (64°F) AND 28°C (82°F)
ROME 180 KM
$
27 ROOMS AND SUITES
IN JANUARY AVERAGE BETWEEN -5°C (23°F) AND 12°C (53°F)
PESCARA 90 KM
SANTO STEFANO DI SESSANIO ITALY
THE PLACE Nestling in the heart of the quiet Abruzzo region in central Italy there is a characterful sixteenth-century village: Santo Stefano di Sessanio. Its massive, ancient stones speak volumes, and narrow passageways and porticos-withstairs open onto sun drenched piazzettas or a labyrinth of alleyways. However, some of the houses are barely standing. At 1,200 metres above sea level and only a stone’s throw from the Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park in the Apennine Mountains, Santo Stefano di Sessanio is a well-kept secret, surrounded by the incredible beauty of the Abruzzese landscape – reminiscent of New Zealand but with mountain peaks as high as the Alps.
56 right
The mediaeval streets of Santo Stefano di Sessanio do not allow normal cars entry, let alone the modern world.
ON THE MENU At the wine bar, Il Cantinone, you can drink an aperitivo followed by a light meal, and in the morning enjoy a full homemade breakfast. At Kihlgren’s own restaurant, De Locanda Sotto gli Archi, his passion for conservation is evident in the menu. The dishes are made with ingredients once widely used, but now largely forgotten, such as certain varieties of herbs and vegetables and, most notably, the Santo Stefano grey lentil, which has fallen out of favour elsewhere. The attention to detail is extraordinary; even the blue edging on the plates is a particular shade that has historical meaning. It was tracked down by Kilgren’s team (with help from the museum) and specially mixed to be put to use again. MUST-DO In season it is worth making the 25 kilometre journey from Santo Stefano to go skiing in ‘Campo Imperatore’, one of the oldest ski resorts in Italy. Or go hiking to the Fortezza Rocca Calascio – at a height of 1,500 metres the views over Campo Imperatore and the Gran Sasso National Park are stunning. Two well-known movies were also filmed here: The Name of the Rose and Ladyhawke with Michelle Pfeiffer and Rutger Hauer.
www.sextantio.it
THE STORY The unique villages of Abruzzo are all too often abandoned to the hands of fate. Young people move away leaving the older generation behind. Slowly but surely the villages become dominated by uninhabited houses, deserted squares and empty benches. This was the case in Santo Stefano di Sessanio, until 1999 that is, when the Swedish-Italian millionaire Daniele Kihlgren rode into town. He was on a solo motorbike tour, and as an idealist felt compelled to do something about this sad situation. Kihlgren bought one house quickly followed by another ten, acquiring plots of no less than 4,000 square metres from various owners who had allowed their houses to fall into decay. He made a deal with local government officials to preserve Santo Stefano and restore it to its original state: no new houses and a ban on the use of concrete. In exchange, Kihlgren would invest the considerable sum of around 4.5 million Euros to give the village a new lease on life.
ACCOMMODATION In 2004, five years after Kihlgren first wandered the streets of Santo Stefano, the village was ready to begin its new life. Kihlgren enlisted the help of big names such as architect David Chipperfield, who also supports the concept of conservative restoration. Representative of this relatively new concept in the hotel business, Albergo Diffuso consists of hotel rooms distributed over 32 restored village houses. The authentic character of the rooms is cleverly combined with modern elements, such as home automation systems, underfloor heating and open fireplaces. There is no TV, but there is an Internet connection. The Folk Museum of Abruzzo and some of the older residents of Santo Stefano were involved in the restoration project. This becomes obvious in details such as the heavy bedspreads and patterned linen – based on traditional woven designs and specially commissioned for this venture.
Sextantio Albergo Diffuso
Santo Stefano di Sessanio Italy
57
left-right
Original features with modern technology hidden behind the ancient walls and beams. Handmade bedspreads add a colourful accent.
Sextantio Albergo Diffuso Santo Stefano di Sessanio Italy
58
Sextantio Albergo Diffuso
Santo Stefano di Sessanio Italy
59
60 left
Walk along abandoned and secluded pathways in the most beautiful corner of the L’Aquila province.
61
right
The Fortezza Rocca Calascio at an altitude of 1,500 metres with a view over Campo Imperatore and the Gran Sasso National Park.
Amangiri
Page Utah USA
106
PAGE — UTAH — USA
AMANGIRI
09 SUPER DE LUXE
W 111°36’40”
ARCHITECT
Marwan Al Sayed Wendell Burnette Rick Joy
107
N 37°0’52”
Amangiri
Page Utah USA
108
AMANGIRI PAGE - UTAH UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
THE PLACE A stone’s throw from the famous Lake Powell and the invisible border between Arizona and Utah, the nearsecret location of Amangiri at Canyon Point is not easy to find in this desert landscape. A small signpost pointing to a big void in the desert directs you towards a dusty road that disappears into the distance. After a long drive between the looming sandstone rock formations so characteristic of the region, the hotel emerges on the horizon like a mirage. The architecture is stunning. A rectangular pavilion with razor-sharp edges and made of polished concrete stands out in contrast to the enormous rocky outcrop it nestles against. Add the vivid blue of a swimming pool against such dry surroundings, and the whole place has an extraordinary presence.
112 right
Every suite has a luxurious bathroom and a view of one of the most extreme environments in North America: the rugged Navajo Desert.
AIRPORT
PRICE RANGE
ROOMS
IN JULY AVERAGE AROUND 38°C (110°F)
LAS VEGAS 425 KM
$$$$
34 SUITES
IN JANUARY AVERAGE AROUND -16°C (0°F)
ACCOMMODATION The clever design of the hotel complex is inspired by the rugged nature of the Utah landscape and the distinctive Entrada sandstone. It is as if this massive block of stone has emerged from its environs through natural erosion. Zecha and I-10 Studio designed Amangiri so there is constant natural light and the clean, lines of the minimalistic design are emphasised by the equally distinctive play of light; dappled rays make patterns on the sand-coloured walls and windows without glass frame the view as if it were a work of art. In every sense, the architecture is redolent of the extreme environment; the light brings the outside in and like the outstretched wings of an eagle, the 34 rooms and suites extend from the main building into the desert. Every room looks out over the untamed landscape and panoramic views are enjoyed even from the bath or the bed. The idea is that one could walk directly into the desert from every room. The large folding windows can be completely opened, leading on to a private terrace with a fire place, the perfect place to marvel at the starry skies in the intensely black nights of southern Utah. ON THE MENU The restaurant and lounge are hidden away in the main pavilion, with a view over the pool. Breakfast or a leisurely lunch can be enjoyed outside on the shady terrace, or you can enjoy a glass of wine while watching the sun set from the sun-drenched veranda at the back. MUST-DO There are many natural attractions close to Amangiri, such as Antilope Canyon, Rainbow Bridge – an archway carved out of the rocks by the elements. It is 88 metres high and a holy place for the native Navajo. Then there are the surreal, naturally-formed passageways through the archetypal red sandstone at Antelope Canyon. It is also worth getting up half an hour before sunrise, and taking the short drive to Horseshoe Bend, where experiencing the colours in such tranquillity is truly magical.
www.amanresorts.com
THE STORY This is no ordinary hotel: it is an enclave of comfort and style in North America’s most dramatic desert landscape. That the founder of the luxury hotel chain Amanresorts, Adrian Zecha, won the approval of the native Navajo and Hopi tribe elders when he proposed this project, is rather exceptional. The conditions were that it had to be a contemporary interpretation of traditional Native American architecture, not a copy but remaining true to the environment and culture found here. A Las Vegas style hotel was out of the question: it needed to be a resort in harmony with the desert landscape, with nature as the protagonist. The hotel – with grounds covering an area of some 250 hectares – was built by three well-known architects from Arizona: Marwan Al Sayed, Wendell Burnette and Rick Joy. The trio went into partnership for this project and set up the collaborative company I-10 Studio, named after the highway that runs between their offices in Phoenix and Tucson.
CLIMATE
Amangiri
Page Utah USA
113
Amangiri
Page Utah USA
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Amangiri
Page Utah USA
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The stark architecture of Amangiri belongs to the earth and the unique Utah landscape.
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All Amangiri suites have a fireplace, to keep the dark nights of the Navajo Desert at bay.
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Floor-to-ceiling windows in the suites, fold back to reveal the red desert landscape and the round, stone elevations of the mesa.
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The most beautiful suite has its own swimming pool, which reflects the dramatic sunsets.
A bird’s eye view of the camouflaged and unobtrusive architecture of Amangiri.
Fogo Island Inn
Fogo Island Newfoundland Canada
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FOGO ISLAND — NEWFOUNDLAND — CANADA
FOGO ISLAND INN
11 PURE ISLAND ATMOSPHERE
ARCHITECT
Saunders Architecture
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N 49°43’51” W 54°10’35”
Fogo Island Inn
Fogo Island Newfoundland Canada
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FOGO ISLAND INN FOGO ISLAND NEWFOUNDLAND CANADA
THE PLACE The slogan of Fogo Island Inn, Far Away from Far Away could not be more appropriate. The journey to reach the island, which is only accessible by helicopter or by ferry from Farewell Harbour, involves a bit of effort. Especially in winter, when the Atlantic Ocean freezes around the north coast of Newfoundland and the Arctic storms blow across the land. But if you want to be among the first to witness the sun rising over the North American continent, it is well worth it. Fogo is an atmospheric and enchanting island inhabited by 2,500 Newfoundlanders, most of whom are of English or Irish descent. The landscape is a patchwork of countless lakes with a scattering of small, charming villages that carry poetic names such as Tilting Harbour, Little Seldom and Joe Batt’s Arm. In spring, gigantic icebergs float by, passing along the coastline. Caribous roam wild and occasionally in winter there is a polar bear alert on the island. Interesting detail, according to the Flat Earth Society, Brimstone Head on Fogo Island is one of the four corners of the world. You come here to be far away from everything – indeed, Far Away from Far Away.
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Architecture, built to withstand the extreme nature of Newfoundland.
AIRPORT
PRICE RANGE
ROOMS
IN JULY AVERAGE BETWEEN 10°C (50°F) AND 21°C (70°F)
GANDER 120 KM
$$$
2 SUITES, PLUS A FEW SEPARATE HOUSES
IN JANUARY AVERAGE BETWEEN -15°C (5°F) AND 0°C (32°F)
island. The economic driving force behind the project is the Fogo Island Inn, a hotel in the form of an architectural bastion. Cleverly designed, it is constructed out of light wood and run on the principles of entrepreneurial philanthropy, meaning that all the income generated by the hotel goes back to the Fogo Island community. Young families are now returning to their island; there are jobs once more as well as prospects for the future. The older inhabitants are also part of the project, making patchwork quilts and wooden furniture, knitting, gathering berries and herbs, and catching fish again. They also take guests on trips and organise musical evenings. Zita helped give her island a second chance and the future looks bright. ACCOMMODATION Zita’s choice of architect, Todd Saunders, who now lives in Norway but is originally from Newfoundland, demonstrates perfectly the strict but simple philosophy of the Fogo Island Inn: as far as possible use local knowledge and engage local craftspeople and materials. If it can’t be sourced in Newfoundland then preferably in Canada, and if that is not possible, it must be ethically manufactured whatever its place of origin. Often designed by international designers and artists, almost everything used, including the furniture in the hotel, references the island in some way: from the wooden rocking chairs made in a workshop by local carpenters in Joe Batt’s Arm, and the patchwork quilts made by the women of the local quilters guild, to the bronzed key fobs by the Dutch designer Chris Kabel who was inspired by the objects he found washed up on the island’s many beaches. All the suites at the Inn have a view – through floor-to-ceiling windows – over the Labrador Current. Though the design is minimalist it is welcoming, and interiors are kept warm with wood burning fireplaces and cosy patchwork bedspreads. ON THE MENU The menu created by chef Murray McDonald focuses on produce that can be found on and around the island. Anything that grows wild or comes out of the North Atlantic Ocean is given pride of place, from sea cucumbers, snow crab and cod to the many varieties of berries and herbs that grow in abundance. Early in the morning a tray of coffee and freshly-baked goods is delivered to your door. Breakfast follows and covers everything from the substantial Full English to healthier local specialities. For lunch, hearty meals such as fish & chips or cod fish cakes are on offer and in the evenings a lighter and more refined five-course dinner is served. MUST-DO During the winter months Phil and Norm Foley will take you on a snow scooter tour, which finishes with warming up in front of the cosy fireplace in their remote hut. No matter the season, you should go for a long walk along the magnificent coastline. Instead of what we now consider to be ‘traditional pubs’ on Fogo island you can still experience the real thing, small wooden huts to drink, make music, sing and tell stories. One of these is the locally famous Phil’s Shed in Tilting, where throughout the year (even in the depths of winter!) there are sociable gatherings. And, if you are lucky, you may even catch Maureen Foley and Paddy Barry in action, singing and playing the guitar.
www.fogoislandinn.ca
THE STORY In the 1970s, Fogo islander Zita Cobb witnessed how her father and other local fisherman were finally forced to drag their wooden fishing boats onto dry land because they could no longer compete with the enormous offshore draggers taking all the cod (as well as everything else) out of this part of the Atlantic Ocean. The days of the small-scale family fishery were over. The island could no longer offer any kind of future and with heavy hearts many of the young people left, leaving the older generation behind. Zita, an idealist, had resolved to return someday and give something back to her beloved island home. And after a successful career in Silicon Valley the time was ripe. She began by setting up a foundation to keep the local crafts and traditions of Fogo Island alive, inviting artists, craftspeople and designers from other countries to visit this remote
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An inventive design with colourful accents inspired by the island and the history of Newfoundland.
Tables with a view across Labrador Bay which partly freezes over in the winter.
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Fogo Island Newfoundland Canada
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Fogo Island Inn
Fogo Island Inn doesn’t want to be labelled as a design hotel, but rather an accessible inn where clever design plays an important role. Every object, ingredient, design and material used here can be traced back to its origin.
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The Evangelical church along the road to Tilting in Joe Batt’s Arm. On Fogo there are a handful of fishing villages, with wooden shacks huddling around quiet harbours.
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One of the residents of Tilting, Norm Foley, lights a campfire in the wilderness to cook a piece of salted cod.
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The Shorefast Arts Foundation invites designers, artists and craftspeople to come and ‘do their thing’ working together with the islanders. The isolated positioning of all the artists pavilions in the Fogo Island landscape offers the right blend of inspiration and extreme sensations to get the creative juices flowing.
Jack’s Camp
Kalahari Desert Botswana
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KALAHARI DESERT — BOTSWANA
JACK’S CAMP
21 OLD SCHOOL SAFARI CHIC
DESIGNER
Catherine Raphaely
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S 20°28’20” E 25°10’59”
Jack’s Camp
Kalahari Desert Botswana
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JACK’S CAMP KALAHARI DESERT BOTSWANA
THE PLACE Jack’s Camp is located deep in the Kalahari Desert, on the edge of one of the largest salt pans in the world. Welcome to the Makgadikgadi Pans, a white tache de beauté on the African continent that is made up of almost 12,000 square kilometres of shimmering salt flats. Once one of the biggest lakes in Africa but now a blistering void of salt crystals, the Makgadikgadi landscape is captivating and other-worldly. The thick salt crust is interspersed with fertile green islands, where graceful llala palms grow, all set against the backdrop of the Kalahari. It is also the territory of the local San people, the surviving hunter-gatherers in this unspoilt part of Botswana.
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Jack’s Camp is one of the oldest but also the most beautifully styled safari camps in Africa.
AIRPORT
PRICE RANGE
ROOMS
IN JULY AVERAGE BETWEEN 0°C (32°F) AND 30°C (86°F)
MAUN 230 KM
$$$$
10 TENTS
IN JANUARY AVERAGE BETWEEN 18°C (64°F) AND 45°C (113°F)
ACCOMMODATION The ‘vintage colonial’ furniture was discovered after Jack’s death, in old storage containers that travelled with him from Tanzania in 1959. There were also many exceptional skins, and stuffed animals – some of which are now extinct. And as a conservationist, one of Ralph’s first tasks was to make a record of these. Ralph and his ex-wife Catherine didn’t want to create a luxury hotel, and made the conscious decision not to connect electricity to either the ten tents or the communal lounge area. The staff light paraffin lamps every evening, evoking an atmosphere of nostalgia and romance – except perhaps for those wearing contact lenses! Being in a dark bush tent when a lion roars nearby or a supersonic storm lights up the night sky in shades of green, is quite an experience. ON THE MENU It is hard to believe that such a high standard of food is possible out in the middle of nowhere. The cuisine is light and inventive and the drinks menu features South African wines. At lunchtime there are delicious quiches and fresh salads, and in the evening, springbok or kudu steaks. MUST-DO There are other animals on the agenda besides prowling lions and passing elephants so you don’t come to the Makgadikgadi just to see a parade of the ‘Big Five’. Among them are cheetahs, best seen at sunset when the sky over the Kalahari turns shades of pale blue and pink. This is also one of the few places in the world where you can get up close and personal with meerkats. Go out and about with the San bushmen trackers to learn more about their amazing skills and habits.
www.unchartedafrica.com
THE STORY If you feel in need of silence and wide-open spaces then Jack’s Camp is the place for you. The charismatic Ralph Bousfield owns this camp. It is the love of his life – and one of the few camps on the northern edge of the Makgadikgadi salt flats. Ralph’s father, Jack, was a legend in safari history. He lived here for many years alongside the San, learning their language and customs. In the 1960s, Jack set up a simple camp, taking aristocrats and celebrities of that era out onto the salt flats and deep into the Bechuanaland on four-wheel-drive quad bikes. He was a true man of the wild – and achieved a world record by shooting 53,000 crocodiles! After the death of his father during a plane crash Ralph took over the family empire and worked with South African, Catherine Raphaely, to transform Jack’s Camp from primitive bush camp into an oasis of luxury and comfort.
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The San bushmen are your neighbours at Jack’s Camp. Taking guests on memorable explorations into the wilds, their hunting and survival expertise becomes apparent.
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A must-do in Jack’s Camp: driving in the 4x4 through the endless Kalahari Desert.
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In search of footprints left by a cheetah, who make the Makgadikgadi salt pans their playground.
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Meerkats on the lookout across the plains of the Kalahari Desert. right
A cheetah out hunting as the soft evening light falls on the salt pans.
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COLOPHON
TEXT
Debbie Pappyn PHOTOGR APHY
David De Vleeschauwer BOOK DESIGN
Sven Beirnaert EDITING
Nikki Werner Liz Morrison If you have any questions or remarks, please contact: david@findingremote.com debbie@findingremote.com
Š Lannoo Publishers, Tielt, 2014 ISBN: 978 94 014 0994 0 Registration of copyright: D/2014/45/226 NUR: 450/500 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any other information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.
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