The waiting game: how PFN status is achieved

Defra’s guidance document on applying for PFN status says applications can take up to two years to be processed, writes Patrick

McGuigan

Try telling that to the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association, which first lodged its application for Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) designation in 1998. At the time of writing – a decade later – the application has still not been approved by the EC, although it is expected to be rubber-stamped later this year.

The process has taken so long because of well-publicised objections from Northern Foods – a large manufacturer of Melton Mowbray pork pies whose factories fell outside the proposed production zone. The company fought the application all the way to the High Court and Court of Appeal, before withdrawing its objections in 2006 after being granted a five-year transition period to transfer production. Despite the drawn-out process Matthew O’Callaghan, a Melton Mowbray councillor who heads up the Association, says the experience has been positive. “We began with five members and have since taken on two more, who we’ve helped with recipes and production techniques. There’s been a real sense of co-operation between producers,” he says, adding that publicity from the case has pushed up sales of Melton Mowbray pork pies across the board. The application process has also seen members win new contracts with M&S and Asda.

The initial steps of any application involve submitting a 12-page document that specifies details such as the appearance, flavour and history of the product. This is examined by Defra and is then opened up to a National Objection period, which gives other interested parties time to lodge queries and objections. After this, Defra makes a final decision on the eligibility of the application. If favourable, the decision is publicised, offering a last opportunity for comments. Once any issues have been resolved the application is submitted to the EC, where it can take over 18 months to be examined and put out to consultation.

In Cumbria, the Cumberland Sausage Association, which comprises around 20 members, is currently at the National Objection stage in its application for PGI status for the name Traditional Cumberland Sausage.

John Anderson, of county councilbased Made In Cumbria, who has led the application, estimates he has put about six weeks of work into the scheme over the past three years, while costs have been limited to postage and petrol.

With small producers, industrial processors and butchers all members of the association he says agreeing the terms of the PGI was a little tricky. Stumbling blocks included the minimum meat content and whether to apply for the term ‘Cumberland Sausage’ or ‘Traditional Cumberland Sausage’. “Food From Britain and Trading Standards steered us away from ‘Cumberland Sausage’ because for protected status come from associations of producers, there are exceptions. John Knox of the Staffordshire Cheese Company recently managed to gain PDO status for Staffordshire Cheese all by himself. In fact, Knox is the only person currently making the cheese in the world after reviving its production several years ago. Staffordshire Cheese used to be hugely popular in the 18th and 19th century, but production died out after the Second World War because farmers could get a better price for their milk.

Knox single-handedly researched the history and traditions of the cheese, even unearthing recipes in people’s wills, in an effort to bring it back from extinction.

Gaining approval for his application wasn’t easy, he says, because the EU was suspicious that there wasn’t a genuine tradition for the cheese. “I had to do a lot of work. The EU said, ‘If the recipe is so good, why isn’t it still being made?’ So I had to go into a lot of detail and provide a lot of evidence of its history.”

Despite the hard work there were also benefits to being a lone applicant. “It meant I didn’t have to discuss each stage of the process with lots of other producers,” he says.

Knox is now using the PDO to encourage farmers in the area to start producing Staffordshire Cheese.

“When artisanal cheese-makers meet up at farmers markets we’re all great pals, but if you ask to look round someone’s dairy the shutters come down. To me that’s wrong. I want to be open and co-operate with people.” it is too generic and we would have received objections,” he says.

Was there also a danger that, with industrial producers involved in the application, the definitions would become watered down?

“To a degree we had to please everyone,” he answers. “Bigger manufacturers have more to lose if the rules are too stringent, but we never got into heated arguments. We agreed we had to meet somewhere in the middle. For example, some producers wanted 95% meat content, others wanted 70%. We agreed on 80%, which is a hell of a benchmark when there are sausages with meat content as low as 40%.”

Decisions are made via meetings every few months which last for several hours. Representatives from Trading Standards also attend as they will inspect members if the application is approved.

While nearly all applications