FINE Wine Champagne India by Fine Publishing India

WRITERS Rajiv Singhal Rajiv Singhal is an entrepreneur who pioneered activities in the luxury sector in India. He studied

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Volume 8 Issue 4 Q4 2018 Editor Rajiv Singhal

Economics at Yale, and since then has been simplifying access to the Indian market for international clients. Among other path breaking initiatives, he helped set up the market for wine in India over the last 20 years. Appointed Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Merite by the President of France in 2014, Rajiv is the Ambassador of Champagne to India and loves to challenge himself. Ritu Singhal

Publisher Rajiv Singhal for Fine Publishing India Private Limited

Ritu Singhal is co-founder of New Delhi based Group Ritu, which has diverse interests in private equity,

Chief Executive Ritu Singhal

and experiments with new techniques on new media whenever she can. As voluntary work, she set up an

Wine Manager Radhika Puar

marketing, consulting and publishing. She trained as a textile designer at Sophia Polytechnic in Bombay, annual craft bazaar to empower women artisans. When not doting on her two teenaged boys, Ritu is up for any gastronomic adventure. Aishwarya Nair Mathew

Bordeaux Correspondent Ch’ng Poh Tiong

Aishwarya Nair Mathew is Head – Corporate Food & Wine at Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts founded by her grandfather. Having graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in New York,

Acknowledgements Gyula Pethő and Annamária Somogyi

she is focussed on bringing a global offering of culinary arts to guests. She is intensely passionate about

Art & Creative Sandeep Kaul

Champagne in 2008. Currently based in Singapore, Aishwarya is taking fashion to the next level with

Photographs Shivam Bhati Administration Archana Burman

fine wine and was felicitated with the Diplôme d’Honneur of the Corporation des Vignerons de her own label, Aligne. Ch’ng Poh Tiong Ch’ng Poh Tiong is a lawyer by training who has many decades of expertise as a consultant, judge, writer and contributor in the wine space. Author of many books that have received international acclaim, he specialises in Bordeaux. He studied Chinese Art at the School of Oriental & African

Cover Photograph John Jennings on Unsplash

Studies in London and is an ambassador of the European Fine Art Foundation, Maastricht. Poh Tiong

Editorial & Business Offices 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001 E: contact@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in

his daughter.

Subscriber Information T: +91 11 23359874-75 RNI no. DELENG/2010/35861 ISSN 2231-5098

Stuart George is the founder of Vins Extraordinaires, through which he offers fine and rare wine

Edited, Printed and Published by Rajiv Singhal on behalf of Fine Publishing India Private Limited. Published from 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001, India. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201306, India.

plays the 7 string qin, the ancient Chinese instrument, and is happiest when he laughs together with

Stuart George experiences and sales to private clients. He studied English and European literature at Warwick, holds the WSET Diploma in Wine and Spirits since 2000 and was the UK Young Wine Writer of the Year in 2003. Privileged to have tasted vintages back to 1780, he contributes to many wine publications and judges wine competitions. Based in London, Stuart plays the guitar and follows cricket in his free time. Mary Kae Irvin

All rights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced, stored in any retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to nor reflect the opinions of the publisher or the editorial team. While the editorial team do their utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. Fine Publishing India does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent in unsolicited, and hold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Mary Kae Irvin is a wine educator, cheerleader, and Ambassador for Ste Michelle Wine Estates. She's an accomplished actor and voice talent with a Master of Fine Arts in Theatre from the University of Washington. When not evangelizing wines or treading the boards, Ms. Lindsey enjoys quality time with friends, has never met a stranger, is a lifetime work-in-progress and committed to changing the world for the better-one glass at a time.

e struck silver! Two thousand eighteen marked twenty-five glorious years of the

FINE Editorial

Landmark Anniversary incorporation of our very first commercial enterprise in India. We very proudly raised a very special toast to this notable landmark – Group Ritu @ 25. What made

the toast even more special is that the toast was raised at a Pinot Meunier bearing plot in the Vallée de la Marne region of Champagne that manifests the story of a unique Indian intervention in the year of the “legendary” harvest. It has been a trail blazing, trend setting and path breaking journey of pioneering initiatives throughout which we have underwritten risks to chart the unknown. Our commitment to deliver excellence in the most challenging and constantly changing landscapes (read India) has stood testimony to our passion, dedication and diligent hard work. The unstinted and unwavering support of all our stake-holders has been the basis for this coveted milestone. Through these years, we have been introduced to a cross-section of people – some academically inclined, some worldly-wise, some masters of jugaad, some great fun, some flamboyant bon-vivants, some hedonist sybarites, some grounded and down to earth, some bubbling with ideas, some high achievers, some avoidable like the plague – and new relationships have been forged. Our very successful sector-agnostic activities have been concentrated in areas that were hitherto ignored. Early on, we struck off “impossible” as an option from the basket of choices available to us. The rewards have been somewhat gratifying – time and again, we have been recognised as being “ahead of the times”. Our give-back has been the encouragement to new players to break into the “haloed” circles that we have nurtured. Notwithstanding the huge temptation to indulge in self-congratulation, a landmark anniversary is an opportunity to reflect. We have to remain motivated to drive ourselves and to challenge ourselves to continue to create value. We remain mindful that we cannot afford to take our foot off the pedal. We may have come a long way, but there is still a long way to go…

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FINE India Seventh Anniversary

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Chateau Clerc Milon

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8 Wine Pool

52 FINESPORT

The Perfect Start

66 FINELIFESTYLE

Corinthia - The Grand Budapest Hotel

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Experiences with Hungarian Wines

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Budapest

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Hungarian Table Choreographies

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Wine Casts a Movie

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Luxury on the Bosphorus

FINE Experience

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The FINE Ambassadors' and High Commissioners' Table Our Seventh Anniversary Dinner

Text: RITU SINGHAL Photographs: HUNESH AJMANI

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he twenty eighth day of April, two thousand eighteen. The elevator doors of the majestic Leela Palace New Delhi don’t open on the 10th floor to regular guests and patrons. Le Cirque is ‘closed’ for a private

dinner – a FINE occasion – something special enough to merit this..

It is the seventh anniversary of the FINE Wine &

extended their support this year. FINE truly appreciates that

Champagne India magazine, the first and (still) the only

Australia, Champagne, France and Portugal have had an

officially registered wine magazine in India. It’s time for

enviable perfect attendance record – seven on seven! They

FINE’s very unique and now much-awaited world wine

are joined by Canada, Chile, Hungary, Japan, Mexico, New

presentation – the FINE Ambassadors’ & High Commissioners’ Table. In this seventh edition, the invited friends of

Zealand, Serbia and the United States of America. Great Britain and Greece make their debut at this FINE Table.

FINE will partake the

wines that have been so

tradition, we take a rain

painstakingly selected by

check on the some very

the 14 Heads of Mission from the wine world, who have

depart

from

kind offers to host the FINE evening at an ‘Official

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Residence’ of a Head of Mission. The European fine dining

their table card. The customary click is against a larger-than-

best-in-its-class restaurant, Le Cirque, is a personal favourite.

life image of the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine

A few iterative discussions with the General Manager, Louis

cover that towers the photo wall in the majestic Boardroom.

Sailer, and his team establish that the lovely wood panelled main dining room can be re-arranged (and they are willing) to accommodate our guests in a bespoke FINE formation. The FINE Ambassadors’ & High Commissioners’ Table has a new address!

year, the “Reception” red stays with South America. In what will be his last presentation to the FINE Table – it is revealed that the “most beautiful couple” on the diplomatic circuit end their posting in India – H.E. Andres Barbe, Ambassador of

Le Cirque offers a spectacular panoramic view of the capital.

Chile presents the easy drinking Tarapacá Cabernet Sauvignon

This evening, these views are accentuated by the unexpected

from the Central Valley in Chile and remains optimistic about

thunder and lightning playing in the dense cloud cover.

the reduction of duties in India. Giving Chile company is the

Showers cool the sizzling summer temperatures but are

“Reception” rosé from old world Europe. H.E. Gyula Pethő,

thankfully brief enough not to disrupt the city and derail our

Ambassador of Hungary has worked hard through the year

evening.

to move his position in the presentation order and is thrilled

A visiting international celebrity chef in-residence has been keeping the entire team at the Leela Palace quite occupied, but they have ironed out our dinner very meticulously and efficiently. Much like a jigsaw, various permutations and combinations have been worked over weeks to get the

that he keeps his vow from last year’s edition and makes a real jump from the last wine presented to the first! The Hungarian rosé wine is the very refreshingly cool and fruity Günzer Tamás from the “Mediterranean” Villány in the southern part of Hungary – near perfect for the summer day.

many pieces into shape, to reveal the FINE picture. And the

As Chief Executive of FINE, I welcome our guests and thank

transformation of Le Cirque does look stunning.

all heads of missions for their continued participation. All

All-clear from Atul, Sumit and Sahil in the dining room and kitchen to Tanu, the Le Cirque hostess, who greets our FINE guests at her tenth floor lobby welcome desk and hands them

The Reception room soon fills with a vibrant chatter. This

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anniversaries are special, maybe this one a bit more. The world’s leading fine wine magazines in Finland moved on, smitten by digital, and in the last year we moved on to being independent, convinced about the future of print for those who appreciate

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only the FINEst in life. This year, the FINE Table covers the

‘novelty’ is very appropriate for the English wine that he

largest number of wine regions ever from around the world –

carried in – a good representation of what English wine is

14 – each carefully paired by the Leela Palace’s Executive Chef

turning out to be. A young varietal, Bacchus originated in

Adrian.

Germany sometime in between the world wars and settled

The grand Le Cirque dining hall is ready to welcome us. Our guests are guided to their pre-assigned seats at tables that take their names from the Le Cirque restaurants locations around

well in Kent where the temperatures were able to highlight the acidity in this crisp, juicy, tropical wine – sophisticated enough to be served at No. 10 Downing Street.

the world – New York, Las Vegas, Dubai, Delhi, Mumbai and

I am grateful for the generosity of the Ambassador of

Bengaluru.

Champagne to India, whose cellar I have raided for every

We all sit down to the ‘novelty’ showcase and two glasses bearing the flags of Greece and Great Britain, both of them making their debut at the FINE Table. “I enjoy drinking wine and am here as a humble apprentice to learn. This is my first initiation course”, H.E. Panos Kalogeropoulos, Ambassador of Greece, confesses as he presents a 100% indigenous Greek grape variety, ‘Malagousia’ that was saved from extinction by Ktima Gerovassiliou, the producer.

FINE Anniversary to bring a FINE wine for a FINE evening! Raising a toast with the legendary bubbles from the Kingdom of Champagne, Rajiv Singhal announces, “for the FINEst, nothing but the FINEst will do”. The bubbles in our flutes are from Maison Jacquart – the flagship of the co-operative Alliance, whose holding of 2,400Ha across over 60 crus allows Floriane Eznack, their Chef de Cave to create a mosaic that lends the cuvée its name – Brut Mosaique which is served with a very

H.E. Sir Dominic Asquith

generous portion of the White

KCMG,

Asparagus Pannacotta with

British

Commissioner,

thinks

High that

Cucumber and Almond.

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wine”. She describes the wine as a ‘sweetish’ and pleasant wine which carries itself well and complements the Fresh Burrata with Tomato Water Gel, Heritage Tomatoes, and Air-dried Ham (without ham for the vegetarians) as a perfect pairing for this wine but reminds us that we have to have this good wine with good conversation, and very good friends! Alongside on this flight, H.E. Vladimir Marić, Ambassador of Serbia, is delighted to be back at the FINE Table to present yet another wine from Alexandrovic – the Varijanta 2014. He skips the nose, palate, soil… and reiterates that good wine (just like the one he For our next course, Chef Adrian has proposed a Pea and Mint Soup with Mascarpone Mousse, Buckwheat and Truffle which might have ruffled some conservatives in the world of wine, but not open minded and willing to experiment FINE guests. H.E. Harinder Sidhu, Australian High Commissioner has chosen a vibrant white – the O'Leary Walker Riesling Polish Hill River Clare Valley 2016 – (instead of a bold red) to move up the presentation order. “It’s a certified organic wine since 2012 from South Australia, Australia’s premier wine growing region. The winemaker's father, David O’Leary Sr., was Australia’s Deputy High Commissioner to New Delhi (1981-1983). A lovely connection to India, to Ambassadors over the years, and to the practice of Diplomacy. I just had to present that here this evening”. Japan has brought a premium option from

Manns

Wines,

the

Solaris

Koshu Old Vintage 2005. Madame Patricia Hiramatsu is the spouse of the Ambassador of Japan, whom “he generally turns to when it comes to

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

offered from Serbia) should be had with good friends and good times. Our FINE line-up of 14 did make Chef Adrian ponder. The next flight is a white and a red from two regions – one in the far far east in the Southern Hemisphere (New Zealand) and the other in the far west in the Northern Hemisphere (USA) – with the Pan-roasted Fillet of Red Snapper with Gnocchi,

and

Artichokes

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Porcini

(Artichoke

Ragout Stuffed Ravioli with Parmesan Fondue and Artichoke Chips for the vegetarians). The New Zealand Trade Commissioner, Jane Cunliffe, traces the success of the Sauvignon Blanc grape in New Zealand since it was planted first less than 50 years ago. Somewhat lesser known than

Marlborough,

Martinborough

is where Palliser Estate is – just across the hill from Wellington in the North Island. H.E. Joanna Kempkers, the New Zealand High Commissioner, describes their 2017 Sauvignon Blanc as serious, subtle and textural whilst still infusing vibrant tropical and citrus fruit characteristics, on a brisk, racy palate. Mary Kay Loss Carlson, Deputy Chief of Mission of the American Embassy is presenting a very affordable and accessible Pinot Noir – Kendall Jackson Vintner's Reserve 2013 – from California, which takes credit for 90% of the

fine wine produced in America. She describes the wine as a complex blend of floral and earthy notes. Long legs, strong and spicy. It’s time for the mains – the Sous Vide Duck Breast with Celeriac Choucroute, Foie Gras, Bulgar Wheat and Berries (Quinoa and Caponata with Crisp Baby Vegetables and Carrot Dressing for the vegetarians) – and with it, the Encinillas Megacero Premium Blend 2015 from Mexico and the José Maria da Fonseca Periquitta Azeitão 2015 from Portugal. H.E. Melba Pria, Ambassador of Mexico, teleports us to Chihuahua – where the birthplace of the wine, La Hacienda de Encinillas, is nestled by the Apaches and not far from the tercentenary Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, the historic trade tracks now world heritage – and asks for our indulgence. “Take your wine. Take a big sip. No, don’t drink it! Roll your tongue on the upper palate. Freeze just there. And start to breathe (if you can)! Don’t drink it yet! Don’t drink it yet! Let your tongue run dry. Now drink it. That’s what the desert tastes like and that’s what

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resulting wine is described as, “typically Canadian – it is beautiful, it is seductive, it is exceptionally long...” From the very quaint well designed and very well stocked cellar in the French Residence, H.E. Alexandre Ziegler, Ambassador of France, has chosen Château Coutet Premier Cru Classé Sauternes-Barsac 1998, which is the oldest wine this evening. But at the last minute, he has had to delegate the task of presenting the wine to Françoise MoreauLalanne, Agricultural Counsellor. A Bordelais, Françoise shares France’s love-hate relation with its neighbour across the channel. Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry II in the 12th century and the region was forever in war since. But, as English soldiers reached the Sauternes-Barsac region, they so enjoyed the fresh sweet wine that they forgot about the war. “The name of the Chateau translates to knife, but the wine has the taste of peace”! A sensational evening of FINE celebration that has extended Mexico is.” Applause, H.E. Melba has just been nominated an Honorary Member of the Institute of Master of Wine! Charge de Mission of the Embassy of Portugal, Sofia Batalha, presents a wine made by a family business that is one of the oldest Portuguese wine producers and this wine is from the not-so-well-known Setubal Peninsula. The eight months in oak lend a dark ruby colour to the indigenous blend. Fruity, well balanced acidity with soft tannins. The Le Cirque Classic Crème Brulée with Orange Biscotti is offered with a choice – the traditional Sauternes or the modern Canadian Ice Wine. Chateau des Charmes Vidal Ice Wine Niagara-on-the-Lake 2015 is presented by Jennifer Graham, spouse of the Canadian High Commissioner, and Robert McCubbing, Senior Trade Commissioner. German immigrants brought this 18th century tradition over in the 20th century. The Vintners Quality Alliance of Canada ensures the very high standards – vines are registered, grapes must remain free of fungus, 35 brics and over sweetness, freezing grapes must be picked off the vine… – and the

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well past midnight. FINE has been blessed by each of the presenting Heads of Mission and all guests clamour for an encore – indeed, till the next FINE event.

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The Fine Ambassadors

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and High Commissioners

The Fine Ambassadors and High Commissioners

Rajiv Singhal (Champagne) & Ritu Singhal (Fine)

Hungary Gyula PethĹ&#x2018; & Annamari Somogyi

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Japan Kenji Hiramatsu & Patricia Hiramatsu

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UK Sir Dominic Asquith & Louise Asquith

Mexico Melba Pria

New Zealand Joanna Kempkers & Dr Tim Markwell

Canada Jennifer Graham

Portugal Sofia Batalha

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Greece Panos Kalogeropoulos

Serbia Vladimir Maric & Jovanna Maric

Chile Andres Barbe & Lorena Escobar

USA MaryKay L Carlson & Aubrey Carlson

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Australia Harinder Sidhu

Australia Dr Mark Morley

Canada Soyoung Park

Canada Robert McCubbing

France Franรงoise Moreau-Lalanne

New Zealand Jane Cunliffe

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Fine India Seventh Anniversary Günzer Tamás Villány Rosé 2014

Region: Villány, Hungary. Varietal: Furmint. Appearance: Salmon pink with onion skin tints and ever so slight bubbles. Nose: Rose, cherries, red currants with hint of pink peppercorn. Palate: Dry juicy palate of red berries and plums with refreshing acidity. Finish: Fresh and fruity wine. Balanced acidity with minerality. Inside Information: The wines from the region of Villany in the southern part of Hungary are built on strong foundations with a respect for tradition – the first protection of origin system in Hungary was developed here and the treasures on the Villány-Siklós wine route are central to wine tourism. Wine of Villany are recognised by the Crocus trademark – Crocus is a plant unique to the region, found on the south slopes of Szársomlyó Hill. Only wines that meet the strict criteria to be classified as “Villány Classicus” or “Villány Premium” can bear this coveted mark. In a nutshell: Graceful and Summery.

Ktima Gerovassiliou Malagousia 2017 Region: Epanomi-Thessaloniki, Greece. Varietal: Malagousia. Appearance: Bright straw with greenish hues. Nose: Intense with matured fruit – quince, pear, grapefruit and mango. Palate: Prominent flavours of lemon peel and tropical fruit. Finish: Crisp mouthfeel and rich citrusy aftertaste. Inside Information: “Malagousia” is a 100% indigenous Greek grape variety, that was saved from extinction in the seventies. Vangelis Gerovassiliou is known to be the person who planted the long-forgotten grape in an experimental vineyard as an oenologist. He had studied at Aristotle University of Thessaloniki's School of Agriculture and specialised in Oenology and Viticulture at the University of Bordeaux in France. Buoyed by the success of his vinifications, he later introduced this indigenous grape to his own estate Ktima Gerovassiliou in Epanomi that he founded in 1981. In a nutshell: Seductive survivor.

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Tarapacá Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Region: Central Valley, Chile. Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Appearance: Deep ruby with purple tints, bright and opaque. Nose: Oaky aromas reveal ink and red fruits with hint of bell pepper. Palate: Jammy blackcurrants and some mint. Finish: Medium bodied with rounded tannins. Easy to drink. Inside Information: Tarapacá wines are ‘born in a unique place’. The company was founded in 1874 by Don Francisco de Rojas y Salamanca, a winemaker, at the foothills of the Andes range in the heart of the Maipo Valley. This traditional and historical winery crafts elegant wines with cutting-edge technology that preserve the high seal of quality and set the benchmark for viticulture. A part of the Winebow Group, it was awarded Green Company of the Year recognising the sustainable actions across all aspects: economic, social and environmental. In a nutshell: A typical classic.

Chapel Down Bacchus 2016 Region: Tenterden, Kent, Great Britain. Varietal: Bacchus. Appearance: Pale gold. Nose: Aromas of freshly cut grass, elderflower, mango, pineapple and granny smith apples. Palate: Citrusy, zesty and refreshing flavours of gooseberry. Finish: Juicy. Well balanced. Inside Information: Named after the Roman God of Agriculture, Wine and Fertility, the ‘Bacchus’ grape originated in Germany in the 1930s as a cross between Riesling and Sylvaner, and Müller-Thurgau. The grape settled well in the cool maritime climate of Kent where the temperatures were able to highlight the acidity best. Innovative ways of thinking and the evolving and dynamic approach to grape growing keeps Chapel Down ahead of the rapidly expanding game in the British wine industry. “Our aim is always to surprise and delight our customers”. In a nutshell: Sophisticated novelty.

Jacquart Brut Mosaique Region: Reims, Champagne, France. Varietal: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier. Appearance: Pale gold with flashes of jade. Delicate and fine bubbles. Nose: Rich stonefruit aromas. Hints of honey and brioche. Palate: Fresh and Full. Honeysuckle and spices with a touch of nuts. Finish: Fruity, rounded, long. Creamy evolution. Lingering. Inside Information: Maison Jacquart is a dynamic 50 something year old amongst history steeped peers in the region. The flagship of the cooperative, Alliance, that owns around 2,400 hectares across about 60 crus, which is a significant individual holding in this delimited region. The young and innovative Chef de Cave, Floriane Eznack, joined the house in 2011. She manipulates the resources at her command in the new facilities on Boulevard Lundy to create an impression of a mosaic. This lends the cuvée its name – Brut Mosaique. In a nutshell: Generously in harmony.

Manns Wines Solaris Koshu Old Vintage 2005 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Nose:

Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan. Koshu. Bright yellow with silver tints. Complex aromas that range from dried apricots to prunes. Low alcohol. Palate: Lively, velvety and pleasant. Very ripe pears and nuts. Finish: Multi-dimensional balance between sweetness and acidity with a nice aftertaste and lingering finish. Inside Information: Owned by Kikkoman, the very famous makers of soy sauces, Manns Wines Katsunuma Winery is one of the largest in the Yamanashi Prefecture, the region that has the longest history and tradition of making wine in Japan. This Solaris Old Vintage wine is made in years of good harvest. It is matured in glasslined stainless-steel tanks that allow it to attain a maturity as it ages for over 10 years during which the fermentation is suspended by intense refrigeration. In a nutshell: Has a presence of its own.

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Tasting Notes O'Leary Walker Riesling 2016 Region: Polish Hill River, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia. Varietal: Riesling. Appearance: Pale straw with subtle green hues. Nose: Classic petroleum. Perfumed “bath salts” and musk sticks. Palate: Clean. Fruit forward with fine minerality. Finish: Dry. Vibrant and wellintegrated. Inside Information: Since the vineyard was planted in the 1970s, the grapes were grown organically even though the certification of Australia’s Organic could only be secured in 2012. The winemakers have a strong diplomat connect and one with India. The father of one of the winemakers, David O’Leary, was a very prominent and senior Australian diplomat who had many ambassadorial positions before he retired in the 1990s. Between 1981-1983, he was Australia’s Deputy High Commissioner to New Delhi. The great Australian wine industry is a melting pot of many cultures, and many, many different backgrounds. In a nutshell: A diplomat’s treat.

Alexandrovic Varijanta 2014 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Nose:

Oplenecko, Šumadija, Serbia. Muscat Hamburg. Very light brick red. Powerful aromas of roses and strawberries with a hint of forest floor and spices. Palate: Very fruity. Red berries leaping out of the glass. Refreshing. Finish: Mild structured with a long aromatic finish. Inside Information: Family Aleksandrović has been one of the founders of Vinča Winegrowers Cooperative back in 1903. Trijumf was one the most sought after wines in European royal courts before World War II. In 1991, Živan Tadić, a famous royal cellarmaster who had migrated to Canada following the World Wars, learnt about the attempts of the family Aleksandrović to revive Serbian winemaking traditions and shared some original recipes. This marked a new chapter in Trijumf’s long history – which today have a place of pride at La Cité du Vin, Bordeaux. In a nutshell: Handiwork of handwork and hardwork.

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Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2017 Region: Martinborough, New Zealand. Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc. Appearance: Pale lemon yellow with green tints. Nose: Charming aromas of tropical fruit and white stonefruit with a hint of smoke. Palate: Lush, brisk, racy. Grassy and herbaceous, fleshy citrus with a hint of pineapple. Finish: Engaging and textured. Fresh with nice minerality and crunch. Inside Information: Sauvignon Blanc has been the staple of New Zealand’s wine industry in the last four or so decades. Martinborough is area where stones and sheep co-existed, and Palliser are perhaps the mavericks who gambled on turning farmland into vineyards – a seemingly mad idea that turned out to be ground-breaking. A small team, inspired by Captain Cook and dead-set on following his lead, is delivering on the promise of standing on the edge of the world and then going that little bit further in the search of that ‘something great waiting’. In a nutshell: Lazy afternoon cooler.

José Maria da Fonseca Periquita 2015 Region: Azeitão, Setúbal Peninsula, Portugal. Varietal: Castelão, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa. Appearance: Ruby red with dark hues. Nose: Voluptuous aromas of blackberries, blackcurrants and plums with hints of vanilla, cassis and black pepper. Palate: Fruit heavy with touches of dark cocoa. Dense. Balanced acidity Finish: Soft supple tannins. Persistent finish. Strong character. Inside Information: José da Maria da Fonseca is a pioneer in much of what is done in Portuguese oenology, a job that starts in the vineyard under the guidance of Domingos Soares Franco – the first Portuguese winemaker to graduate from University of Davis in California. They first created this wine, that became so well known that it acquired a regional notoriety. Periquita was registered as a trademark in 1941 and remains the oldest registered brand of Portuguese ‘table’ wines and represents a blend between the true and original Periquita tradition and the long term vision. In a nutshell: Traditional view on the future.

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Kendall Jackson Pinot Noir 2013 Vintner’s Reserve Region: Monterey & Santa Barbara, California, USA. Varietal: Pinot Noir. Appearance: Dark Garnet with red tinges. Nose: Complex blend of floral and earthy notes. Blackberry and raspberry with strong whiff of vanilla. Palate: Lush dark cherries infused with cola and spicy accents. Finish: Soft rounded tannins. Toasty. Smooth. Supple. Direct. Inside Information: For over three decades, Kendall-Jackson has remained committed to crafting the finest quality wines from grapes grown in California’s cool coastal vineyards. Parcels are vinified separately so that Randy Ullom, Winemaster and the KJ winemakers have the ability to craft a wine that exhibits the perfect blend of regional flavours and aromas. Each lot is hand-crafted to create wines that have earned a reputation around the world for consistently exhibiting intense layers of flavour with complexity and balance. In a nutshell: Pure Coastal Expression.

Region: Chihuahua, Mexico. Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. Appearance: Deep dark cherry with brick red hues. Nose: Intense. Complex. Aromas of blackberry, with floral and spicy notes. Palate: Full bodied. Mouthy. Opulent. Velvety tannins. Well integrated. Finish: Long permanence and pleasant aftertaste. Inside Information: Encinillas wines are punished by the cold, heat and desert winds and are products of imagination, tenacity and talent. They surprise oenophiles and professionals around the world with delightful wines that share a legacy and recreate history. At an altitude of 1560 meters, the clay-gravel soil and favourable climatic conditions allows a unique quality of grape that lend themselves to exceptional wines of great distinction. Committed to respect nature, the vineyard management is based on organic and sustainable agronomic practices. In a nutshell: A taste of the desert.

Region: Niagara-on-the-lake, Ontario, Canada. Varietal: Vidal. Appearance: Bright shimmering gold. Nose: Manifestation of honey, apricot and flower gardens in full bloom. Palate: A rich mouth-coating feel. Layered texture. Apricots and mangoes spring out. Finish: Straight forward. Charming balance. Citrus finish. Inside Information: “Making wine is not what we do, it’s who we are” – the Bosc family traces its roots back to a winegrowing tradition seven generations ago in Alsace France, in Algeria, as “pied noirs” in France, and finally in Niagara, Canada where in 1978 Chateau de Charmes was founded. In partnership with a lawyer, Canada’s first commercial vineyard dedicated exclusively to European vitis vinifera varietals was planted – the success of which was considered impossible in Canada’s climate. Nay-sayers were proved wrong. The fledgling wine industry was revolutionised. Native varietals were banned from wine under the Wine Content Act of 1988. In a nutshell: The perfect substitute for dessert.

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Encinillas Megacero Premium Blend 2015

Chateau des Charmes Vidal Ice Wine 2015

Chateau Coutet Premier Cru Classe Sauternes 1998 Region: Sauternes Barsac, Bordeaux, France. Varietal: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle. Appearance: Deep gold with antique tints. Nose: Subtle mix of candied orange, apricot liqueur, gingerbread and a touch of saffron. Palate: Fleshy. Caramel and honey with light minerality. Finish: Syrupy. Mastering perfectly the balance between the fullness and the freshness of a vintage full of flavours. Strong personality. Fine. Inside Information: Weather conditions were warm and dry in the first three months of the year and budding happened earlier than usual. Exceptional weather in June restored the vegetation cycle and flowering took place early in the month. A heat wave in August and the very ripe berries showed substantial potential. Botrytis cinereal developed well in the first fortnight of September. The early and even spread of the Noble Rot made it possible to produce very high quality musts with great potential for aromas and flavours. In a nutshell: The wine of peace – disarming and old.

Inputs for tasting notes by Radhika Puar

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Photo: M. Anglada - Saison d'Or

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RENAISSANCE & A NEW APPROACH TEXT: Ch'ng Poh Tiong

hateau Clerc Milon came to be as a result of the French Revolution (1789 - 1799). Originally part of the seigneury of Lafite, it was parcelled out

of that huge estate and sold off as a 'national asset' in 1789. The buyer was the Clerc family who join their name with that of the hamlet of Milon to usher in the birth of Chateau Clerc Milon.

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Photo: Ch'ng Poh Tiong

Text: Stuart George 32

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The quality and reputation of the wine grew with the passing vintages and in 1855, Clerc Milon was ranked a Fifth Growth in the Classification of the MĂŠdoc. At that time, the size of the vineyard was 30 hectares. Then, phylloxera struck in the second half of the 19th century and, in its wake, decimated the vineyards of France and those of the rest of Europe. Recovery was tedious and drawn out. Then, of course, came World War I (1914 - 1918), the Great Depression (1929 - 1939), and World War II (1939 - 1945).

In 1983, Clerc Milon was given a new label which depicts a pair of dancers. The motif is an art piece made from precious stones by a 17th century German goldsmith. This striking new label is taken directly from an intricate work of art that belongs to Chateau Mouton Rothschild's Museum of Wine in Art. What Baron Philippe de Rothschild started when he acquired Clerc Milon, his daughter Philippine de Rothschild completed in a series of added investment to the physical form of the estate. In 1988, on the passing of Baron Philippe, the consolidation of the vineyard

was already well under way and the reputation of Clerc Milon on a steady rise. On the other hand, the technical facilities were limited to a rudimentary vat house and the cellars located some distance away in the town of Pauillac. As for the 'chateau', it was really no more than a small village house. Baroness Philippine de Rothschild set out to complete what her father had inspired when he first bought Clerc Milon. A vat room, gravity-fed, was introduced in 2007. This had been designed to accommodate the patchwork of parcels in the vineyard and to be as flexible as possible when the manual harvest is brought in. After further hand-sorting, the grapes are transferred to the vats in mobile bins. There are a total of 40 vats, all gravity fed in order to reduce the need for handling and pumping

Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix

The modern renaissance of Chateau Clerc Milion took place in our lifetime. In 1970, convinced of the wine's potential, Baron Philippe de Rothschild bought what was by then a pretty run down estate. At the time of the purchase, Clerc Milon was just 16.5 hectares, having shrunk by almost half of its original size. The

baron knew potential when he saw it. Clerk Milon, apart from being a neighbour of Mouton, is practically across the road from Lafite. On the same side, farther up the road is Saint-Estephe's Chateau Cos d'Estournel.

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Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix

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Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix

The proprietors of Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Clerc Milon. From left, Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, Camille Sereys de Rothschild and Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild. which, in turn, makes it easier to keep the grapes intact, thereby retaining all their aroma and flavour. The technical winemaking concerns addressed, the next stage was no less important. In 2008, the Rothschild proprietor family separated the winemaking at Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, Clerc Milon and Chateau d'Armailhac. Prior to that, there was one over-seeing director of winemaking for all three properties, and also one person overall in charge of viticulture for those three chateaux. 'Previously, the organisation was horizontal,' explains JeanEmmanuel Danjoy, who had joined as winemaker at Clerc Milon after 36

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having spent 10 years at Opus One in Napa Valley. 'The new idea was for each chateau to be independent. And, although part of the old team continued to be here, my first vintage with the new team was 2009. ' As a result of the change, Erick Tourbier became in charge of winemaking at Mouton; Jean-Paul Polaert at Chateau d'Armailhac; and Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy at Clerc Milon. The person who oversees all three properties is Philippe Dhalluin, who joined in 2003 following the retirement of Patrick Leon. 'The family realised that if they want to have the best from the

estates, then each estate must become entirely focussed on just its own terrior. It's not just winemaking that is involved because we work in the vineyard too. Clerc Milon alone has 247 blocks of vines. The majority of the soil is gravel, limestone, and with some clay. Clerc Milon attains freshness easily from those soils which is a challenge because if we don't have enough ripeness, the freshness becomes acidity. There must be commensurate ripeness to harness that freshness,' elaborates Danjoy. The consequence of the new approach is that the new team and regime at Clerc Milon now gets a better picture of their terroir and all the varietals in their vineyard. The Pauillac Classified Growth is

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Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix

quite special in that it is planted to the five varieties of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit-Verdot, and 1% Carmenere. Planting density is between 8,500 and 10,000 vines per hectare. Chateau Clerc Milon has 41 hectares of vines in the north-east of the Pauillac appellation, on the Mousset crest overlooking the Gironde. The gentle slope favours natural drainage and exposure to sunlight, while the nearby river creates a microclimate that protects the vines from frost in spring, reduces the risk of hail, and brings a nippy coolness in summer. The soil is made up of two-thirds deep sandy gravel over a clay-limestone base. The average age of the vines is almost 55 years, one of the highest in the Médoc. The strive for a deeper understanding of the vineyard has given Danjoy and his team a clearer, crisper, more resonant picture. It's as if they have become more bonded with their charge. 'Our understanding of our terroir has gone from 5,000 to 5 million pixels,' JeanEmmanuel Danjoy sums up. In 2011, Chateau Clerc Milon unveiled a striking 3,600-square metre complex comprising a half-underground barrel hall, a cellar, and reception and tasting rooms. Power is provided by 300 sq m of photovoltaic cells on the roof, such is the concern for the environment. As for the chateau, that's a rectangular building in the form of a temple, encircled by a spacious terrace giving an uninterrupted view onto the vines and the surrounding estates. A Pauillac classified growth was reborn. >

‘The majority of the soil is gravel, limestone, and with some clay. Clerc Milon attains freshness easily from those soils which is a challenge because if we don’t have enough ripeness, the freshness becomes acidity,’ JeanEmmanuel Danjoy spent 10 years at Opus One in Napa before being lured back to Bordeaux.

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Photo: Alain Benoit/Deepix

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Photo: Ch'ng Poh Tiong

TASTING NOTES I asked my host for me to approach the 10 wines in three flights. From experience, you get much more from each wine this way as we are better able to focus on three or four wines at any one time than have your mind range back and forth 10 of them. Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy then asked in what order I wanted to taste the wines. I asked to be guided by him. The tasting notes are in the sequence in which Danjoy arranged the vintages in the tasting on Monday 8 January 2018.

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2007 This was the first vintage to be vinified in the new cuverie. The aromatics are delicate and include a whiff of mint, soft sandalwood, a dab of tobacco, and light blackcurrant fruit. Mediumplus-ish in body, the wine shows an early maturity. Now to 2025.

2008 More closed on the nose than 2007. And equally tight on the palate. The structure is in front of the fruit at the moment. Blue/black fruit is detected. This needs to be re-tasted in the future when the wine will become more expressive. No rating given.

2009 Immediate sensation of generous fruit: blackcurrant and cassis. The succulence is matched by ripe, rich tannins. Still very youthful. The firm finish is wrapped in freshness. This buoyancy is quite remarkable given that 2009 was a heat-ravaged vintage. Then again, this is the northern MĂŠdoc where Pauillac borders St-Estephe. And, as Danjoy alluded to in the first part of this article, freshness is a forte of Clerc Milon. (Chateau Clerc Milon is located practically opposite of Lafite-Rothschild and, just farther up the road on the same side is StEstephe's Chateau Cos d'Estournel).

2010 A much more complete wine than 2009. The intensity and concentration of fruit - including cherries - is cocooned in an atom of vivacity. Bright, lifted, and with great length. The tannins are very polished. Incredible balance and energy.

Flight II 2011

Delicately smoky and vanilla on the nose. Peppery/capsicum/blue fruit. Fresh, fine tannins. Elegant. Mediumplus bodied. Danjoy informs that

spring was warm and dry and the vines struggled for water. The small berries had thick skin and the wine has more tannins and minerality but is less aromatic.

MĂŠdoc harvest was 'like in Napa where you could wait and not worry about rain and come back anytime to harvest the grapes in optimum ripeness'.

2012

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Flight I

Considerably more aromatic than 2011. Delicious, vivacious red and blue fruit. Lots of freshness. Texturally not as silky as 2011 but the fruit has more vitality. There's just a touch of sappiness on the finish. Mediumplus body. Danjoy informs that 2012 is the total opposite of 2011. 'Spring was very wet and the vine grew a lot. There is a lot less tannins which is why it is so much more aromatic.'

2013 The red fruit, although light, is very elegant. So too the tannins. Lovely balance. Feminine. Danjoy informs that some of the fruit 'was not in good shape in 2013'. As a result, the maceration was shorter. So too the extraction which was also more gentle.

Flight III 2014 Floral and whiff of violets (for Danjoy, it's irises). Ripe red fruit and blueberries. Silky tannins. Marvellous texture. Very polished and classy. Clerc Milon 2014 is truly impressive and over delivers for the vintage which is already regarded as a good to very good year. Danjoy informs that the end of August was completely overcast and that there were small showers. The temperatures were not very high. The general opinion, at the time, was that the vintage would not be very good. Nature then sprung a surprise. The gift was a belated but much appreciated long and dry Indian summer. The harvest started on September 22nd on a few young plots of Merlot and only finished on October 17th for the Carmenere. Reflecting on the 10 years he had spent in California, Danjoy remembered that the 2014

2015 The 2015 was somewhat closed up when I visited on January 8th. But not entirely. The undoubted quality of this stunning vintage simply would be denied. On the nose and palate, there's just richer, riper blue fruit, and riper, richer tannins. The wine has more density, concentration, and power. What makes all that so impressive is the unyielding freshness that accompanies the bounty of fruit and tannins.

2016 Nature smiled on Bordeaux in 2015 and 2016 and delivered two magnificent wines. The fruit of 2016 is considerably more exuberant, forward, and upfront. I remember, in April 2017, tasting La Fleur Petrus in the Pomerol chateau with Christian Moueix, how I described it to the proprietor as 'the Beaujolais Nouveau vintage of Bordeaux', so juicy was the fruit at that youthful curve of the wine. Since then, 2016 has closed up considerably. Still, there's the whiff of violets. Tight but very rich fruit and tannins.The texture is very impressive.

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FLAVOURS WITH FLAIR

Trident Bandra Kurla welcomes you to experience a world-class culinary journey amidst North Mumbai’s most pulsating commercial hub, Bandra Kurla Complex From flavours around the world to authentic Indian and classic Italian cuisine with a contemporary flair, our award winning restaurants offer the very best of regional and international cuisines crafted to please the connoisseur in you. Come discover fine-dining beyond the obvious with innovative chef-led experiences, wine tastings, degustation menus, impeccably curated private dining experiences along with imaginative table set-ups, all customised to suit your preference.

O22–our all-day-dining restaurant, presents world cuisine ranging from of Mediterranean, Western, Indian and Asian fare featuring an interactive sushi bar, the freshest seafood counter, wood-fired pizzas and a decadent dessert deck. The Sunday Brunch here is an opulent affair created by our master chefs offering a limitless selection of inspired global cuisine. A central dining area at O22 offers additional privacy and is perfect for personal and business occasions.

O22 also houses a Bar Lounge that serves classic and signature cocktails and a twostorey glass encased enoteca that stocks some of the world’s most coveted wines labels.

Named after ‘Pietra di Botticino’, the beautifully veined Italian marble – Botticino is an ode to hearty Italian flavours presented with a contemporary flair. Touted amongst the 50 Best Restaurants in India by Condé Nast Traveller India, Botticino features a menu inspired by an explosion of flavours embedded within Italy’s rich history and culture. The Grappa display in Botticino – is the first of its kind in Mumbai, offering a fine range of grappas in beautifully designed Venetian glass bottles. ‘Volare’ the Private Dining space at Botticino offers guests an exclusive setting, perfect for intimate milestone celebrations or important business luncheons.

The first of its kind in Mumbai - The Grappa display in Botticino offers a fine selection of grappas in beautifully designed Venetian glass bottles.

The Sunday Brunch at O22 is an opulent affair created by masterchefs offering a limitless selection of inspired global cuisine.

The Trident Patisserie & Delicatessen offers a selection of fresh bakes, artisanal breads and chocolates, gourmet sandwiches and salads, that are perfect to eat-in or takeaway. The patisserie also offers customised cakes and host of gourmet gift items for special occasions or corporate gifting.

Maya presents a masterful blend of curated recipes for vegetarian and meat lovers alike.

Maya creatively captures the essence of authentic Indian fine dining in a diverse and delectable menu. Presenting traditional North West Frontier delicacies from Awadh, Purani Dilli, Punjab and local Mumbai favourites, the restaurant also features ‘Diva’ – an exquisite private dining experience, the perfect setting for celebratory occasions, business meets or family gatherings.

Trident Bandra Kurla, C-56, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai 400 051, India. Telephone: +91 22 66727777 | Email: concierge.bk.mumbai@tridenthotels.com Website: www.tridenthotels.com/hotels-in-mumbai-bandra-kurla

8 W

ine

Pool Text: Stuart George

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FINE History

t was a year that might turn even the most devout teetotaller to drink â&#x20AC;&#x201C; unless their name is Trump.

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In 2017, we witnessed the inauguration of a Twitter-obsessed reality TV star as US President (whose grandfather came from the Pfalz wine region in Germany); the ongoing tragicomedy of North Korea; shocking events in Manchester and Las Vegas; a never-ending war in Syria; and the devastating consequences of Hurricane Harvey and the Mexican earthquake. Compared to these events, fermented grape juice becomes even more insignificant. Nonetheless, let’s try and look to 2018 with optimism and savour the chance to enjoy some great wines with friends and family. Vintages that end in “8” can be auspicious. Ten years on, the 2008 Bordeaux vintage is not seen as great but those who know what they’re doing made some good and well-priced wines. The modest Château d’Angludet excelled in 2008 because the Sichel team, fearing the inability to ripen the grapes so late in the season, thinned the crop twice, so that in the end they brought in only 30 hl/ha but it was of outstanding quality. Rhône 2008 was tricky, with 300mm of rain – the amount that would normally fall in six months – poured on the hill of Hermitage in just 24 hours on 3rd-4th September. No Hermitage La Chapelle was made this year, so if you see one please run a mile and report it to Wine Searcher. The Chinese milk scandal of 2008, in which milk and infant formulas were adulterated with melamine, which can cause kidney failure, is a reminder that wine fakes and forgeries are not just a financial hazard but also potentially a health hazard. Burgundy 2008 was mixed. In the Loire, yields were reduced by spring frosts in the west and by hail in the east. Champagne was good, if not quite as good as 2002. Barolo and Tuscany produced wines that were built to last. It was not a widely declared Port year, with many producers offering Single Quinta rather than Vintage Port, but Noval released a Vintage. California was more than ok and Australia's fine wine regions – Coonawarra, Margaret River, and Swan Valley in particular – did well. There’s plenty of choice for a tenth anniversary. France won the football – that’s soccer to US readers – World Cup in 1998, which might be an excuse for the Bordelais to open some bottles of the magnificent Right Bank ’98s. At a Cheval Blanc vertical tasting and seminar held by the Institute of Masters of Wine in 2006, the 1998 was by general consensus the wine of the day, superior to 1989, 1990, and perhaps even 1982. It was also a fine year in Alsace, the southern Rhône, and Champagne. Red and white Burgundy were as good as each other. The reds were tough and charmless when young but age has smoothed the abrasiveness. 46

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In the Barossa, Torbreck RunRig 1998 was a superb example of old vine Barossa Shiraz. At a stated 14.5% alcohol, it could be enjoyed without fear of a headache in the morning, unlike some subsequent vintages (like 2006 and 2007) of RunRig that went to 15%+, with the prospect of high Parker scores perhaps as much a cause of this as warm vintages. For 21st celebrations, Italy enjoyed a wonderful vintage almost everywhere in 1997. It was a good vintage in the Rhône, too. Jaboulet’s Hermitage La Chapelle 1997 was included in a vertical tasting by a London auctioneer in May 2005 and it was excellent, albeit atypically fruity and “sweet”. Bordeaux ’97 was a notoriously expensive vintage when released en primeur. The wines were charming but nowhere near the level of the ’96s. However, some ’97s have persisted and flourished – for example, Château Lynch-Moussas 1997, which I tasted repeatedly in December 2016. It was a white Burgundy vintage of plump, rich wines but the dreaded “premox” – premature oxidation with a variety of possible causes (higher-yielding Chardonnay vine clones, vinification techniques, lower sulphur dioxide [SO2] levels, faulty corks… Who knows?) – makes sourcing (and serving) these wines a risk. Extremely rich wines for extremely rich people were made in Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, and the Rhône in 1988. An old tasting note by me on Vieux Château Certan ’88 reads, “Very elegant and balanced, with the exception of the exuberant tannins, which seem rather out of place here. Lacks the finesse of the 1998 and 2000.” Forty year olds can enjoy great wines from Burgundy and the Rhône in 1978 – DRC and Hermitage La Chapelle if you can afford them. It was also a great year for Barolo and California. Bordeaux had a challenging year, saved by a lingering summer. Château Margaux 1978 – the first wine of the Mentzelopoulos era – has always enjoyed a high reputation. When last encountered it was a style of wine that would be perceived by many nowadays as unacceptably lean and tannic. Indeed, Margaux 1989 was harvested almost a month later than this. Other ’78s noted on my travels include a fading Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron and a pleasantly fruity Château Léoville-Poyferré. Argentina won the football World Cup in 1978 but there are not many Argentinean wines of that age still available. They’ve probably been drunk by Argentineans to commemorate their first World Cup win. Fifty year olds can compare how they’ve aged with great wines from California and Tokaj. Old Rioja can be of exceptional

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There’s not much to say about 1958, though it was a good year for Barolo. Madeira of any vintage is usually a decent drink. Cossart Bual 1958 is not a bad example of rustic, warming Madeira in my experience.

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quality and value. A 1968 CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva was cedary and just starting to dry out on the finish but still a good, mature wine a few years ago.

If you’re celebrating a 70th in 2018 then you’re in luck. Although overshadowed by the awesome reputation of the ’47s, 1948 produced some magnificent wines in Bordeaux. Vieux Château Certan 1948 was tasted – or rather, drunk – twice in a short period over ten years ago. I noted it as “a monster of a wine” because of its relentless tannins, which I suspect will keep it going ad nauseam. It was also a great year for Vintage Port. We will have to skip 1938, which was a poor year, but 1928 was one of those vintages when most, if not all, of the classic regions made wonderful wines, though they are now likely to be past their sell-by date. When last seen, Vieux Château Certan 1928 was just about hanging on in there. A better experience was had with a deeply-coloured and still tannic 1928 CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva. Ancient Rioja can be irresistible. Centenarians can enjoy great Vintage Ports from 1908, especially Cockburn’s, which was the preeminent Port producer in the first half of the twentieth century before a long decline that was arrested only when Symington Family Estates acquired it from Beam Global Spirits & Wine in 2010. The nineteenth century had several great “8” years (gr8s?). The last pre-Phylloxera vintage was in 1878, which was also a seminal year for literature: Thomas Hardy’s The Return of the Native, Henry James’s Daisy Miller, and Leo Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina were published this year. Of course you’ve read them all. There is a delicious reference to Chablis and oysters in chapter ten of the first book of Anna Karenina. Levin, Oblonsky, and Stepan Arkadyevitch are dining together: “What shall we drink?” “What you like, only not too much. Champagne,” said Levin. “What! To start with? You’re right though, I dare say. Do you like the white seal?” “Cachet blanc,” prompted the Tatar. “Very well, then, give us that brand with the oysters, and then we’ll see.” “Yes, sir. And what table wine?” “You can give us Nuits. Oh no, better the classic Chablis.” “Yes, sir. And your cheese, your Excellency?” “Oh, yes, Parmesan. Or would you like another?” “No, it’s all the same to me,” said Levin, unable to suppress a smile. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Interesting to note that oysters and Chablis was already “classic” by 1878. Chablis, oysters, and Parmesan sounds like a decent meal to me. White Nuits-St-Georges is produced but it’s a tiny amount of the total percentage of Nuits wine – only about 40,000 bottles per year – and unlikely to have been found in nineteenth century Russian restaurants. Gouges and Chevillon make prime examples of white Nuits. But red Nuits with oysters…? The 1850s were a difficult period for winemakers because of mediocre vintages and the threat of oidium (powdery mildew), a fungus that attacks the green parts of the vine. But by 1858 an antidote had been found: Sulphur. “Natural wine” enthusiasts can therefore enjoy pre-1858 wines with a clear conscience. In his Notes on a Cellar-Book (published in 1920), George Saintsbury describes “the great (Bordeaux) ’58s” as “very dear, not very plentiful, and getting a trifle old”. A bit like wine writers, really. With oidium cured, it was the start of a prosperous period in Bordeaux and there was a lot of money floating around, with châteaux bought and sold for extraordinary sums. It could be similar in 2018. The 1868 vintage at Lafite is less notable for the wine – which was the highest-priced claret until the 20th century – than for the purchase of the château by German-born James Mayer de Rothschild, Baron de Rothschild, for the then colossal price of 4 million francs, equivalent to over $2,000,000 today, or about 600 bottles of 1982 Lafite. Henceforth it was Lafite Rothschild. Not many vintages combine quality and quantity but 1848 did. Château Margaux, for example, produced 12,000 cases of great wine, which is about the same as the typical annual production nowadays of the château’s Grand Vin, with at least as much again of Pavillon Rouge. The year of revolutions saw the publication of William Makepeace Thackeray’s The Book of Snobs, which has many references to wine, including a description of a “wine party”: “Thirty lads round a table covered with bad sweetmeats, drinking bad wines, telling bad stories, singing bad songs over and over again.” A hundred and seventy years later, snobs and lads drinking bad wines, telling bad stories, and singing bad songs can still be witnessed at over-hyped auctions in New York and Hong Kong. >

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Photo:

Singha

l 2018

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FINE Sport

The Perfect Start to… Text: Rajiv Singhal

...the Championships Wimbledon 2018 upon the grounds of the All England Lawn Tennis Club. This year is the 132nd – making it the oldest and arguably the most prestigious Grand Slam tennis tournament. This year celebrates the 150th anniversary of the Club that was better known in the day for croquet mallets than tennis racquets.

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Traditions take centre-stage

The Grounds in London’s SW19

Played over two weeks in July,

at Wimbledon – lawn tennis

neighbourhood are revered for

674 matches are scheduled in 13

should be played on grass; it still

the soles that have tread on them

days to cover 16 events. In the

references Ladies and Gentlemen;

– the legendary champions who

unfortunate event of washed

the all-white dress code is strictly

have inscribed their names on the

out days during the first week of

enforced; strawberries and cream

prized trophies year after year –

the tournament, in exceptional

are gluttoned; the Royal Box is

hundreds of thousands of tennis

years, ‘People’s Sunday’ is rolled

for the monarch, nobility and

lovers and pros, first timers and

out with unreserved seating and

celebrities; the shade of Green

regulars, young and old, students

inexpensive access – last in 2004.

hasn’t changed and Centre Court

and professionals, commoners

isn’t drowned in the clutter of ad

and royals alike turn the stiles to

banners.

pay obeisance at Wimbledon with an electric exuberance!

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It’s Day 9 – the Gentlemen’s Singles Quarter-Finals – the formidable trio of Roger Federer,

Rafael Nadal and Novak FINE Sport

Djokovic will step out to progress their bids to add a 14th Wimbledon title to their names and claim this year’s purse of £2.25 million. Our ‘prized’ Centre Court tickets won’t let us see the icon we have come all the way to see – top seed Federer has not been assigned to Centre Court. Thankfully, a ‘swap’ is organised and we get our space under the Court No. 1 sun! In a clinical display of what has become his trademark,

Photo: AEL TC David Le venson

Federer extends his record 32 set winning streak and swiftly races to a match-winning lead of two sets to love. The lanky South African, Kevin Anderson, serves to save match point in the 10th game of the third set. A very casual backhand lobbed return from the eight-time champion drops wide of the base (and side)

18 nghal 20 Photo: Si

lines! This is the turning point of the match – enough to prompt an end to my pilgrimage – I don’t want to warrant eviction for jeering and can’t bear to watch further. The challenger fights back and takes the game in a five-setter. Game, set, match… Mr. Anderson!

years, have been selected by the All-England Club as the “Official Champagne at Wimbledon” since 2001. At the very stylish Lanson Marquee in the VIP Village, I

Inspired by Emperor Napoléon

pick a smartly jacketed piccolo

Bonaparte, in ‘my’ defeat, I need

(with a straw – paper not plastic)

Champagne!

over a flute of the Lanson Black

Lanson, the Reims-based champagne house which has been around for a little over 250

Label – truly refreshing and delicious enough to overpower my horrifying experience.

Photo: Sing hal 2018

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son 2018 Fisher/Lan Photo: Ben

“Champagne Lanson embodies excellence,

innovation

and

to quench players’ thirst and is the

celebrates achievements. It is an

Official Still Soft Drink since 1935.

honour that our relationship has

“When your traditions are known

been extended for another five

to all, you’ve made history”, Rolex

years – till 2023. Such relationships

has been the Official Timekeeper

set Lanson apart from the other

since 1978. IBM is “making the

Champagne houses”, announces

unmissable, unmissable” as the

Paul Beavis, the Managing Director

Official Supplier of Information

of Lanson UK & Export.

Technology since 1990. “Since

Continuity is the big mantra at the All England Club for Wimbledon, whose unique image and character is maintained through long-term commitments and

the

decision

not

commercialise overtly. Slazenger is “the ball that has seen it all” – the Official Ball since 1902 – the longest partnership in son 2018 Photo: Ben Fisher/Lan

the history of sport. “A real taste of Wimbledon”, Robinsons created

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the recipe for Lemon Barley Water

1977, the perfect start to The Championships, Wimbledon”, Lanson is the Official Champagne

FINE Sport Photo: Ben Fishe r/Lanson 2018

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Photo: Singhal 201 8

since

2001

building

150th Anniversary of the Club

relationship since the centenary

on its special label) to the Cuvée

year 1977. Ralph Lauren kit all on-

Extra Age. Anton Hobbs, Export

court officials and the ball boys

Director, explains “Our unique

and girls in navy and cream outfits

style of Champagne is liked

as the Official Outfitter since

and enjoyed by customers. The

2006…

neoprene bottle cooler

In the hospitality district, guests from around the globe are taken through a guided tasting experience of the Lanson labels – from the Brut Black Label to the Rose Label to the White Label Sec (to meet the dress code on the grounds) to the Green Label Organic (that commemorates the

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jackets that are fun, collectible and cherished were

hugely

popular and have been repeated on demand.” After a delectable Champagne Lanson

Photo

C : AELT

till the very end – Game, Set,

Till next summer, when the doors

Label, I head to Centre Court for

Match… Mr. Nadal was the final

open again – for more Lanson,

the Rafael Nadal – Juan Martin

call by the chair umpire – sets him

more strawberries and cream

Del Potro power slugfest armed

up for the semi-finals against Mr.

and more action-packed tennis

with Lanson piccolos to quench

Djokovic.

– the quintessential Wimbledon

my thirst and shades to cover the scorching summer sun. I didn’t anticipate that this would be another five-setter of epic proportions (had to go back for my piccolos) – it hung in balance

A very eventful day with its

experience! >

FINE Sport

afternoon tea with the White

own highs and lows, but thankful for the calming influence of delicate bubbles rising in glasses marked with the Maltese Cross!

2018 Photo: Singhal

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HEDONISM WINES The finest wine shop

HIDE NEW 1 Michelin star restaurant

Corinthia - The Gra

Photographs: Corinthia Hotel Budapest

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FINE Lifestyle

and Budapest Hotel

A muse inspires your imagination towards creativity and should make you think or want to act. A muse could be a person, a movie, a book or a hotelâ&#x20AC;Ś

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Wes Anderson bagged several Oscars for “The Grand Budapest Hotel” in 2015. Even though he didn’t shoot the movie onlocation and carried the disclaimer that his movie was a purely fictional representation with no connection to the city or hotel, the similarities to the ‘muse’ (Corinthia Hotel Budapest formerly known as the Grand Hotel Royal) are uncanny – aspects of history, the architecture and façade of the hotel and even the requests managed by H. Gustave! It seems that Wes’ stay and back-of-the-house tour of his ‘muse’ in 2012 definitely played its part. Built to celebrate the millennium during the reign of King Franz Joseph, the Grand Hotel Royal opened its doors to guests on 30th April 1896 and soon found favour with the social elite to establish itself as one of the most renowned and modern hotels of its time in Europe – featuring en-suite bathrooms and electricity-operated lifts. The hotel had a glorious run till World War II, in which it headquartered the Germans and was partly damaged. Offices of various departments of the Hungarian government

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occupied what was left of the building till the fifties, when someone in the government realised the worth and a restoration program was launched. But, in the turmoil during the Hungarian revolution, it became another HQ – this time for the Revolutionaries. The hotel was re-opened (a pale shadow of its former self) under the state-owned Hungar Hotels on the 20th August 1961 only to shut down in the nineties. A new life was leased in 2003 by the Corinthia Group founded in Malta in 1962 by Alfred Pisani and his family with “not a lot of money but unbending perseverance and the vision to build a great hotel company”. Family values, authenticity, fussing over individual detail, passion and understanding, discrete vs ostentatious define the Spirit of Corinthia. The Pisanis embarked on a very ambitious project to restore the past glory and original splendour by retaining the best of the old, while sensitively adding the new, respecting the local architecture and cultural traditions and eliminating the scars of the war-torn decades. The doors of the newly christened

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The hotel captures the spirit of the historic city that straddles the River Danube and where World Heritage sites and classical architecture, dating back to the Habsburg Empire, are the backdrop to a very modern city with beautiful parks, designer shops, a vibrant art scene, fine restaurants, pulsating nightlife and thermal spas. And even though it is not on the famed Danube waterfront, the Corinthia is one of the grandest hotels in the heart of the Hungarian capital. We were appointed to meet Tibor Meskál for a “Behind the Scenes” tour of the property. Tibor, who joined the hotel as a young apprentice in June 1961, remains the oldest serving employee and is a treasure chest of stories and insights – he knows the hotel like nobody else. “This hotel has had lives of a cat! I have spent a total of 21 years in these walls. It has been fascinating, interesting, exciting and stimulating. I am the only one who has

seen the two re-openings – I am not aiming for the third!” Tibor explained how a historic building has been painstakingly restored to roll out a modern hotel with 21st century luxury. The building was redesigned and built to fit into the original frame that had survived the wars. The French Renaissance style façade with its statues of the four seasons (guardian spirits) from the 19th century, that binds together the three parts of the building, was left intact as was the six-storey glass panelled atrium. Chairman Pisani directed that the central staircase be blended into the lobby.

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Corinthia Hotel Budapest were re-opened yet again, this time to the new generation traveller.

A commemorative plaque of the Grand Hotel Royal is hung on an original wall in the arrival area to remind everyone of the property’s glorious heritage. The flowing “R” logo from the time has been retained and is found scattered all over the hotel, including on the coffee! The property has 414 keys with an additional block of 26 permanent tenancy apartments with independent access but also

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connected to the main building by a glass bridge. With two official entrances, the hotel is the only one of its kind in Budapest. At the main entrance on Erzsébet körút, liveried doormen usher guests, bellhops swiftly take charge of luggage and valets manage the cars as they roll in (380 cars and even 3 double decker coaches can be parked in this citycentre garage). The entrance at the back of the building is for large groups and VVIPs, where the check-in army discreetly go about their duties – almost whispering and tiptoeing. On a wall in this arrivals area are two shields, ‘Our Most Frequently Returning Guests’ and ‘Our Special Guests’. “Guests stay with us because of our location and our exemplary service. The Franz Liszt Presidential Suite is Hungary’s largest at 240 sq.m.”, Tibor proudly announces. The walls of the magnificent Grand Ballroom “survived the wars, the revolution, everything…” and are now adorned by portraits of statesmen, politicians, composers, artists and poets. The gilded scrolls of Hungarian artists elevate its beauty. The 72

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restorers chiselled out the designs and polished up the brass. The original wooden parquet flooring gave way to Italian limestone and Spanish marble. The solid wood staircase to access the Royal Balcony offers a glimpse of a bygone age. Around the time of the First World War, nobody was hosting lavish dinners, fashion parades, or weddings. As a special effort to bring in revenue, the Lumière Brothers from Paris, the pioneers of cinematography, were called in to setup Europe’s first cinema – Royal Apollo (renamed Red Star Movie during the communist era) – outside London and Paris in Budapest seating 1,000 people. The chandeliers in the Ballroom were kept very high to allow projection on the screen and a clear sighting from the Royal Balcony. A special hydro-electric system allowed the splendid chandeliers to come down from the ceiling (and stop 20 cms from the floor) to allow for cleaning, maintenance and replacements without ladders and vertigo. The Ballroom can serve 240 in a sit-down synchronised silver service by white gloved

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waiters where all dishes are placed at the same time – buffet layouts can accommodate more! 1000 coats can be hung in the cloakroom. At the grand launch of the hotel in 1896, the eight-course inaugural dinner that was served to the city’s high heeled at the ‘Royal Palm Court’ set the tone for the history of gastronomy that the Royal became famous for. Renowned restaurateur, Károly Gundel, took the reputation well beyond Hungary’s borders after the second World War. Tibor recalled that people came to the Royal to get what they couldn’t find elsewhere – the American-style hamburgers and milkshakes served in the sixties saw “line-ups that stretched around the block”. Fine dining has always been the first passion of the Pisani family. The dining options at all Corinthia hotels are many and of the highest calibre. They offer fine cuisine (with a focus on regional), inspiring wines and classic to contemporary cocktails – Budapest boasts a 6 in 1 “Gastro Complex” that caters to a very diverse palate and re-establishes its credentials as a culinary destination in its own right.

Family-friendly Sunday brunches at the Brasserie and Atrium restaurants are popular with the city locals. The pan-Asian Rickshaw brings together the many exotic flavours of the far east. Besides acclaimed cocktails, Le Bar serves special topping juicy burgers and sumptuous dessert. The ‘farmto-table’ concept is embraced at the hotel and ingredients are sourced at an Artisan Market from local family-owned businesses with a focus on organic. Other dining options (not managed by the hotel) are the Michelin recognized Bock Bistro – Lajos Bíró’s version of Hungarian classics in a contemporary bistro culture – well stocked with wines of Hungarian legend, József Bock. Caviar & Bull, the brainchild of celebrity chef Marvin Gauci, re-inforces the Maltese connection at the Corinthia. The Orfeum Club evokes the cabaret glamour of Hapsburg-era Budapest. In keeping with its grand appeal, the accommodation for the discerning traveller is opulent and spacious. Stylish furnishings meet intelligent design. An inspiration of the branching of the River Danube at Margaret Island adorns each room. The Mahogany-

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decorated guestrooms have views of the city’s stately boulevards or the impressive atrium. The in-room entertainment systems are state-of-the-art Bose and for those who may have the time, a host of channels to swap between. The doors are from the Czech Republic and open up into beautiful spaces furnished with Slovakian furniture and South African carpets. This international selection is framed in the expertise of Hungarian craftsmen. The Executive Club is a space which offers business centre facilities and a boardroom, a comprehensive library and the international newspapers, a television room and a selection of drinks (including some carefully chosen local Hungarian wines), snacks and canapés served throughout the day. Access to this special area lent a feeling of space and was very welcome. The Royal Spa was conceived by the architect Vilmos Freund in 1888 with steam baths, wave and shower baths, electric baths, a pneumatic chamber and a medical room with cold water – all with thermal water. The hotel got built to the spa and not the other way

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round. History records the spa as operational till 1944, when it became necessary to control all the thermal water running on the main streets in this part of the city because there was a scare that this district will collapse. The abandoned, obsolete spa survived a bid to be converted into a parking lot and was refurbished to blend tradition with modernity – the 15 metre indoor pool is a highlight. It seems that we had engaged well with Tibor – he used a secret code to access the kitchen. We got the mandatory white coat and protectors. Well laid out and well organised, the place is buzzing with activity – breakfast had just ended and lunch was being prepared. Tibor ended the tour, told us that he shared with us more than he did with other guests and hoped that we would carry good memories. Lovingly restored to its original glory, Corinthia Hotel Budapest was brought to life, like a phoenix rising from the ashes. The Corinthia mission of ‘Craftsmanship of Care’ is an aim to create made-to-measure experiences to make guests feel special from the moment they arrive. >

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with

F I N E Ta s t i n g

Experiences Hungarian Wines I

t is believed that the traditions of wine-making in Hungary predate the Roman influence. The Hungarian word for wine ‘Bor’ does not derive from the Latin word ‘vino’ – and this makes this wine country unique in all of Europe. Straddled between the 46°N and 49°N latitudes (the location benchmark that is France) in a land-locked country, the vines were introduced to the fertile lands made up mostly of volcanic soils on the banks of the Danube. A continental climate creates ideal conditions for Hungarian wines to be crafted. The rise in the prominence of Hungarian wines around Europe was led by the to-die-for iconic dessert wines from Tokaji – a region where the world’s first vineyard classification in the 18th century was based on the soil, exposure to sun, incline of the slope incline and propensity to ‘noble rot’. Favourites with almost all the Royal Courts of Europe, the wines of Tokaji were famously christened by the Sun King Louis XIV of France “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” – the Wine of Kings, and the King of Wines. A ministerial decree defines the 22 wine regions in Hungary – each having a very distinct microclimate that produces specific styles

and tastes. The rich and diverse native varietals originating in Hungary such as Ezerjó, Furmint, Hárslevelű, Juhfark, Kéknyelű, Kadarka, Kékfrankos have dominated in the post-phylloxera plantings and have created a following around the world for their unique characteristics. Modern wine-making is Hungary was revived in the nineties by a group of visionary private winery owners who invested in modern techniques to successfully rehabilitate the international reputation that had been severely damaged by the “quantity – not quality” mantra of communist-era collectivisation. The range of Hungarian wines – from light and fresh and fruity to robust and spicy and full bodied to the varying degrees of sweetness and balance – are so diverse that those adventurous enough to dip into the Pandora’s Box will find one to suit their taste. FINE presents a collection of tasting notes from our experiences with Hungarian wines. It was the generosity of the Ambassador of Hungary in India, H.E. Gyula Pethő, that whet our appetite. And our maiden trip to Budapest found us being treated to gems from the Treasure Chest!

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Grand Tokaj April 2017 Vino India Tasting, New Delhi. Tokaj. Furmint. Pale lemon. A lovely rising mousse. Nose Apricots and passion fruit. Subtle yeast. Palate Ripe citrus fruits, honeydew melon, pineapple and cinnamon. Toasty. Finish Balanced acidity. Minerally finish. Dosage 9 gm/l Alcohol 12% Verdict Fresh, with a linear domination of fruit. Inside Information: In 1996, Vencel Garamvári realised a dream to make his first sparkling wines taking the traditional French School as the basis but clearly with the domestic consumer as his prime target. Pre-disgorgement ageing between 24-36 months in the bottle. The family still manages the enterprise, which embodies the professional experience of nearly four decades of the founder and strives to meet his expectations of creating value. Tasted At Region Varietal Appearance

Torley Hungaria Extra Dry Tasted June 2018 At Brasserie & Atrium at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Etyek-Buda. Appearance Very sparkly. Pale yellow. Nose Buttery. Ripe fruits and walnuts. Palate Green apples. Rounded acidity. Finish Fruity. Fun. Dosage 5.4 g/l Alcohol 11.5% Verdict Bubbles for fun. Inside Information: The Torley Group is the oldest sparkling wine producer in Hungary with an experience of around 130 years. Since 1955, Hungaria is a part of Torley. Only special and unique technologies are used, majority of the range are made in the Méthode Transvasée – a very laborious method which is highly successful, since this procedure ensures that the sparkling wine contained in each and every bottle is of the same quality. That makes it possible for the consumer to enjoy the same refreshing sparkling wine experience every time – to foster the claim “indulge in the moment and reveal the evening’s true character”.

ock

Takler

Chateau Vincent Tokaj Furmint Brut

St. Andrea

Gróf Buttler

Dúzsi Tamás Kekfrankos Rose Szekszard 2016

Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Szekszard. Varietal 100% Kekfrankos. Appearance A subtle salmon hue. Nose Light. Citrusy. Palate Crisp, fruity and juicy. Grapefruit, strawberries and a hint of mango. Refreshing zestiness. Finish Dry. Vibrant acidity. Alcohol 13.5% Verdict Classic. Pleasing aperitif. Inside Information: Tamás Dúzsi is the king of rosés in Hungary – they’re always some of the most refreshing rosés around. His rosés are much awarded – have won every major international rosé contest. Aged in cool stainless steel tanks and bottled in the Spring.

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Bock Olaszrizling Villany 2017

June 2018 Bock Bisztro, Budapest. Siklós Városi-hegy in Villany. 100% Olaszrizling. Bright and clear yellow. Charming. Predominantly almonds. Palate Fresh. Crisp celery. Finish Neutral. Alcohol 12.56% Verdict Dry, easy drinking. Inside Information: An indigenous varietal that accounts for around 60% of the white grapes in the country. Drawn from 36 year old vines grown on limestone and mixed loess soil. Controlled vat fermentation and reductive maturation. Made under the Protected Designation of Origin. Tasted At Region Varietal Appearance Nose

April 2017 Vino India Tasting, New Delhi. Tokaj. Furmint. Golden. Varied. Whiff of vanilla, roasted nuts. Strong leather (like in a shoe store). Palate Caramelised and woody. Finish Balanced acidity with a minerally finish. Alcohol 14.5% Verdict Heady. Inside Information: A family business since 2000, Bodvin was founded in 1992 as a joint venture with the Americans. A very modern winery in the region. 10 hectares are farmed in Mád. 7 hectares are owned by Gábor Orosz. It is difficult to separate Gábor from his winery – wine is his hobby – he works to collect rich experiences and shares his knowledge with peers. Tasted At Region Varietal Appearance Nose

Carpinus Hárslevelű Tokaji 2015

F I N E Ta s t i n g

ovacs Nimrod

Bodvin Aldomas Furmint Tokaj 2012

Dubicz Tasted January 2019 At Hungarian Ambassador’s Residence, New Delhi. Region Tokaji. Varietal 75% Furmint, 25% Hárslevelű. Appearance Light yellow. Nose Pure. Complex. Floral, lime peel, honey and hint of elderflower. Palate Flavourful. Structured. Peach and ripe tropical fruit. Finish Silky and lingering. Alcohol 13% Verdict Summery. Inside Information: Edit and István Bai embrace local values established by the wine families as they aim to make Carpinus a leading winery in the region that is “run sustainably without compromise” – and preserve the natural assets of the region. The Gyertyános vineyard is the largest planted in 1985 with East-South East exposure on particularly varied clay soils. Carpinus single vineyard wines express the individual attributes of the vineyards.

Sauska

Tamás Günzer Dubicz 1014 Chardonnay Matrai 2016

Dubicz Sauvignon Blanc Matrai 2017

Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Mátra. Varietal 100% Chardonnay. Appearance Clear, light lemon yellow with hints of green. Nose Buttery. Pineapple and gooseberries. Richly seasoned vanilla. Palate Citrusy. Oaky. Sweet orange, pear, summer apple. Finish Light and dry with good acidity. Alcohol 13.5% Verdict An alternative Chardonnay. Inside Information: The labels are very unique. They translate the natural phenomena of this wine region into an abstract set of symbols. Each wine has its own symbol depicting a characteristic natural treasure reduced to a geometric form, which then fades away vertically, much like the slopes of the Kékes mountain range.

Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Mátra. Varietal 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Appearance Pale grassy yellow. Nose Very aromatic. Wild grass, floral and ripe fruit notes. Palate Distinctive. Gooseberries and bodza (elderberry) with a hint of pear. Slightly gassy. Finish Well balanced with medium body. Long lasting. Alcohol 12.5% Verdict A very aromatic charmer. Inside Information: A history of over 100 years, Dubicz focus mainly on white wines from their 123 hectares of own vineyard. Mátra region is up in the hills. Balancing the great conditions with tradition and latest technology, Dubicz makes quality wines that are everyday – fresh, aromatic and fruity with excellent value for money.

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Gunzer Tamas Mont Blanc Villany 2017

Tasted April 2017 At Tea and Wine at the T Club, New Delhi. Region Somló. Varietal 100% Juhfark. Appearance Stunning yellow with gold reflexes. Nose Non-explosive. Complex tarragon-lemongrass. Palate Lovely extraction. Distinct walnut notes. Minerally and a touch of salt. Finish Light petroleum aftertaste. A bit bitter at the end. Alcohol 14% Verdict For the new wave wine lovers. Inside Information: The modest family dwellings owned by several generations are located in Apátság-dűlő on the south-side of the Somlo hill. The wines are made in the classical style, following restrictions on volume. Oak is used in the fermentation and ageing. The wines are typical to Somló and rich in minerals. Uniquely designed accommodation is open around the year to soak in the beautiful landscape of the Somló region.

ively

Tasted June 2018 At Lounge at Ferenc Liszt International Airport, Budapest. Region Villany. Varietal Ottonel Muscat, Olasrizling, Chardonnay. Appearance Pale green. Nose A bit short. Reminds of petunias. Palate Crisp. Green apple with mild carbonation. Finish Rounded but bitter finish. Alcohol 12% Verdict Youthful. Inside Information: Inspired by his parents and grandparents, Gunzer Tamas was fascinated by vines and wines. He received a 0.3 hectare plot (with a cellar) as a graduation gift from his father, to whom he remains grateful. The holding has now been upped to 45 hectares. European funds allowed investment in production facilities for 330,000 bottles. The next generation, Roland, is already the head of wine-making and strives to produce youthful wines in which he can show himself.

Kolonics Károly Somló Juhfark 2015

Crisp

Szent Tamás Mád Hárslevelű Tokaj 2015

Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Mád in Tokaji. Varietal 100% Hárslevelű. Appearance Lustrous pale yellow. Nose Delicate. Lush apricots with hints of petroleum. Palate Ripe and fruity. Citrusy. Honey. Finish Well-balanced sweetness and acids. Mineral aftertaste. Alcohol 13% Verdict A subtle medium dry Tokay. Inside Information: The Tokaji region borders with Slovakia, where some were using the name. Protection was ensured and the world-famous Tokay wines are only from Hungary! The wines express the local minerality and represent the true terroir. Integrating more and more growers, who agree to focus on quality. In wine-making the focus is to preserve the fruitiness and prevent even the slightest oxidation. Vinlock glass stoppers are used as closures.

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Szepsy Furmint Tokaj 2016

Voluptuous

Smoky

Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Tokaj. Varietal 100% Furmint. Appearance Yellow hues. Nose Focussed. Smoky and minerally. Palate Voluptuous. Citrusy. Lots of honey with white fruits. Finish Bitter aftertaste. Alcohol 13.5% Verdict Complexity framed in oak. Inside Information: His family has been making wines in the region since the 16th century and they are inseparable. István Szepsy is ageing himself (almost 70 years old), but like his wines, very gracefully. He is an icon in the region, much awarded including as the Winemaker of the Year and the Aszú King. He balances the traditions and culture of the land with modern influences. The 52 hectares of vineyards include high-pitched, stony, steep slopes planted with vines with an average age over 40 years to make wines. Produces the best quality grapes without compromise. Worldwide recognition for his dry wines from the Mád village using the Furmint that are set in mildly fired Zemplén barrels for the 40 month maturation. Some say this is the new Golden age of the Tokaj wine region.

Szöllősi Cserszegi Fűszeres Neszmélyi 2016 Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Ászár-Neszmély. Varietal 100% Cserszegi Fűszeres. Appearance Pale yellow with green tinges. Nose Aromatic. Floral and spicy. Palate Lightly sweet, fruity and lively acidity. Very pleasant. Finish Lasting. Lean and clean. Alcohol 12% Verdict Hungarian answer to Alsace Gewürztraminer! Inside Information: Hungarian Winemaker of the Year 2015, Mihály Szöllősi, sadly passed away soon after this wine was released. The highest rated farm in the region – Taj Grébicshegy is the home to the 5.5 hectare Cserszegi plantation. Guyot plantings on clay, loess, brown forest soil. Spring 2015 was very early in the year and Summer 2015 was warmer than the average of many years. Hand harvesting made gentle and selective selection possible.

F I N E Ta s t i n g

Pleasant

Smooth Villa Patzay Rizling 2017

June 2018 Veritas Winebar, Budapest. Villany. 70% Olaszrizling, 30% Riesling. Light yellow. Green apple and green almond. Minerally. Palate Rich, round and creamy. White pepper. Finish Long finish. Alcohol 11.5% Verdict A pleasant on-the-go wine. Inside Information: Patzay estate is home to the Villa Pátzay Borhotel, which sits on the top of a dormant volcano in Badacsony. Surrounded by vineyards, not only are the panoramic views from the Villa breath-taking, it has all facilities that are expected from a modern hotel. Tasted At Region Varietal Appearance Nose

Fruity Bock Capella Single Vineyard Blend Villany 2011

Bock Cabernet Franc Single Vineyard Villany Fekete-Hegy 2014

June 2018 Bock Bisztro, Budapest. Fekete-Hegy in Villany. 100% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet. Expressive. Ripe cherries and dried fruit. Palate Fruit forward. Berries, chocolate, tobacco. Oaky. Finish Well rounded. Alcohol 15.05% Verdict A robust red. Inside Information: Bock produces wine only in best vintages – not every year. 16 year old vines are growing on limestone and mixed loess. Cabernet France is the main grape for the region. The wine is matured for 24 months in Hungarian and Slovenian oak barrels. Oak is used very elegantly – not too much in the face. This premium red wine is a Protected Designation of Origin. 3,800 bottles were made. Tasted At Region Varietal Appearance Nose

Ripe

Tasted June 2018 At Bock Bisztro, Budapest. Region Ördögárok, Fekete-Hegy, Jammertal in Villany. Varietal 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Appearance Glass-coating dark cherry. Nose Concentrated. Smattering of red fruit and hints of leather. Palate Well-rounded smooth tannins. Abundant ripe blackcurrant, blueberries, black plums with coffee and dark chocolate. Finish Full bodied and long. Alcohol 16% Verdict So old world style. Inside Information: A typical Bordeaux blend sourced from the best estates – Cabernet Franc from Fekete-Hegy, Cabernet Sauvignon from Jammertál and Merlot from Ördögárok. This wine is produced every 4th year. Usually rather high in alcohol. Goes through 100% malolactic fermentation. 24 months in 2nd or 3rd use barrique and another 36 months in bottle, so minimum 5 years before selling.

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hardonna

Cserszegi

Olaszrizling

Bock Libra Single Vineyard Blend 2012

Bock Magnifico Single Vineyard Selection Villany 2007

Tasted June 2018 At Bock Bisztro, Budapest. Region Ördögárok, Fekete-Hegy, Jammertal in Villany. Varietal 50% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. Appearance Deeply intense colour – almost verging on black. Nose Oaky. Red berries coated with vanilla. Palate Full-bodied. Over ripe fruit with tobacco and very strong chocolate. Finish Dominant tannins. Alcohol 15% Verdict Bold new worldish. Inside Information: Another Bordeaux blend of varying percentages made by the younger generation. 24 months in first use French and Hungarian oak barrels. Some experimentation with Slovenian oak. This wine is made every 4 years. A bit closed, allow it to open up to entice you.

June 2018 Bock Bisztro, Budapest. Ördögárok in Villany. 100% Merlot. Deep maroon. Exuberant. Mature. Dates and prunes with strong influence of tobacco. Palate Full bodied. Concentrated. Ripe fruits steeped in rum. Soft tannins. Finish Enticingly long. A hint of ‘anardana churan’ (Indian digestive). Alcohol 16% Verdict An explosion of superabundant flavours. Inside Information: The exceptional quality comes from the special selection from the vineyard, available only in exceptional years. The wine’s name is inspired by Il Magnifico Lorenzo Medici. 100% malolactic fermentation and 24 months in new first use barrique. Only 4 vintages have been produced in 20 years. 6700 bottles only.

Juhfark Bock Royal Cuvée Villany 2013

Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Villany. Varietal Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir. Appearance Dark garnet. Nose Eruption of ripe blackcurrants and blackberries. Spicy. Palate Complex. Herbaceous, leathery, smoky, chocolate – a bit rustic. Vanilla oak. Finish Long with puckery tannins, but stays fresh. Alcohol 13.74% Verdict When you mix Bordeaux and Burgundy blends. Inside Information: The Tokaji region borders with Slovakia, where some were using the name. Protection was ensured and the world-famous Tokay wines are only from Hungary! The wines express the local minerality and represent the true terroir. Integrating more and more growers, who agree to focus on quality. In wine-making the focus is to preserve the fruitiness and prevent even the slightest oxidation. Vinlock glass stoppers are used as closures.

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Tasted At Region Varietal Appearance Nose

Gróf Buttler Egri Bikaver 2015

Tasted June 2018 At Kollazs at Four Seasons Gresham Palace, Budapest. Region Eger. Varietal 27% Kékfrankos, 26% Merlot, 18% Pinot Noir, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Kadarka. Appearance Deep red. Nose Soil like. Forest fruits and spices. Palate Toasty. Prunes, black cherries, cloves. Finish Rich and lasting. Alcohol 13% Verdict Earthy. Inside Information: The Gróf Buttler Winery was founded in Eger in 1999 with the oenological philosophy of making ‘perfect’ wine by traditional wine-making methods and the least possible intervention. With 36 hectares, the wines are exclusively made from the grapes harvested on own cultivated vineyards. The Nagy-Eged plantation is 500 metres above sea level, making it the highest vine plantations in Hungary – complete southern exposure, 20-30% slope gradient, gritty, limestone soil and the continuous air flow – all contribute to a special microclimate that likens this parcel to a true Grand Cru terroir. The wines come with a guarantee of a unique, incomparable experience of the terroir.

Gunzer Zoltan Kadarka 2012 April 2017 Vino India Tasting, New Delhi. Ordogarok and Bocor in Villany. 100% Kadarka. Light ruby. Rose and lavender. Plum and some oaky spiciness. Palate Red fruit preserve, bramble and black cherry. Hints of cedar. Finish Bitter and nutty. Structured acidity. Alcohol 13.5% Verdict An afternoon well spent. Inside Information: Zoltan Günzer started with a plantation of 0.5 hectare. This is now 25 hectares that deliver 150,000 bottles per year. He insisted on making the best use of the natural vales of the vineyards, with attention given to the local particularities. But keeps an eye on investments in technology, because “really good wines require both grapes of excellent quality and technological perfection”.

ekfrankos

Tasted At Region Varietal Appearance Nose

Fűszeres

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Hárslevelű Günzer Tamás Portugieser Villany 2017

Tasted June 2018 At Lounge at Ferenc Liszt International Airport, Budapest. Region Villany. Varietal 100% Portugieser. Appearance Purplish. Nose Clean. Ripe fruit. Red berries. Palate Ripe strawberries and raspberries. Finish Medium bodied. Short. Some tannins. Alcohol 12% Verdict Let’s have another. Inside Information: Tamás Günzer Winery is located in a very charming historic cellar in the wine region of Villány and has been welcoming guests since 1998. They put a lot of emphasis on the Ördögárok, whose microclimate and terrain features make it one of the best growing areas in the region.

Furmint

Kovacs Nimrod Rhapsody Eger Bikaver Monopole 2014

Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Eger. Varietal Kékfrankos, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Appearance Bright garnet red. Nose Cranberries. Oak. Palate Vegetal and green peppers. Cherries. Dry tannins. Minerally. Finish Medium finish with slightly bitter aftertaste. Alcohol 13% Verdict A harmonious Hungarian symphony. Inside Information: Selected from own Premier Cru terroirs, the wines owe their characters to the granite and tufa laden soils. The microclimate of Bogács Lake lends fresh and fruity balanced flavours. The winery is housed in seven continuous cellars on the historic Verőszala Street in Eger. The wines are made in the tradition from the 18th century – where wine press houses were just above the cellars and once the grapes were pressed and the juice fermented, wines were stored in barrels in the cool cellars below – with 21st century technology.

Sauska Cabernet Sauvignon Villany 2015 Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Villany. Varietal 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Appearance Deep purple with red hues. Nose Aromatic. Anise, mint and dill. Subtle oak. Palate Black forest fruit with cherries and chocolate. Jammy. Finish Bold and lively. Muscular tannins. Alcohol 13% Verdict An unforgettable mouthfeel. Inside Information: Established in the year 2000 by the Hungarian entrepreneur Christian Sauska in a historic building in Tokaj once known as the Citizens' Casino. This family-run winery produces wines using a blend of indigenous and international varietals using fruit from their Tokaj and Villány vineyards. With a young, talented and passionate staff, the founding family fulfil their desire to make world-class wines – that are precise, elegant and uniquely Hungarian. Sauska has been granted a special logo for the wine region of Villany – just like an AOC in France – a special flower which only grows in this region.

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Szekszard Ászár-Neszmély

St. Andrea Áldás Egri Bikavér 2012

Tasted November 2017 At Hungarian Table Choreographies, New Delhi. Region Eger. Varietal 50% Kékfrankos, 26% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 5% Pinot Noir, 1% Menoir. Appearance Deep dark ruby. Nose Potpourri of black fruit and pepper. Palate Vibrantly fruity and spicy. Complex. Chocolate and tobacco. Finish Velvety and structured. Full bodied. Alcohol 14% Verdict Hold till 2022 for best drinking potential. Inside Information: St. Andrea Wine Estate believe that the Eger wine region – at the foot of the Bükk mountains in the north-east of Hungary – is one of the most exciting wine regions of Hungary with unique possibilities. They aim to create terroir-specific character wines based on traditions and, at the same time, follow the requirements of today’s quality winemaking. Old varieties, like Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, Furmint, Kadarka and Kékfrankos take priority here. An effort is made to know more about the terroirs and parcels, to improve cultivation and also to adjust the winemaking to suit best the different varieties. They put their heart and soul into understand the essence of our earthly mission.

Takler Görögszói Kékfrankos 2011 Tasted June 2018 At Kollazs at Four Seasons Gresham Palace, Budapest. Region Szekszárd. Varietal 100% Kékfrankos. Appearance Deep red. Nose Concentrated bouquet of ripe fruit with some spices. Palate Complex. Prunes, black cherries, cloves. Finish Long. Soft tannins. Alcohol 14% Verdict Elegance in the glass. Inside Information: The fruit is taken from one of the best-known and most favoured Görögszó vineyard (named after the Greek monks who once live here) which is on the most noted slopes of the Szekszárd wine region. Only 3570 bottles of this single vineyard wine were produced. In 2011, the vineyards flourished at the beginning of summer, undisturbed by wind or rain and then received the right amount of precipitation. Perfect maturity in the clusters for harvest in early October.

Tolna

Takler Szekszardi Bikaver Reserve 2012

Tasted April 2017 At Tea and Wine at the T Club, New Delhi. Region Szekszard. Varietal Kekfrankos, Kadarka, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah. Appearance Deep ruby. Nose Opulent. Dark berries and dates. Smoky. Spicy. Palate Dry. Juicy berries. Hints of cracked black pepper and roast coffee beans. Evident oak. Finish Lasting. Grippy tannins. Alcohol 14.5% Verdict An icon of the region. Inside Information: The Takler family been growing vines and making wines in Szekszárd since the 18th century alongside other wine making families, according to the settlement of Maria Teresia. The current winery was established in 1987 and is controlled by the “consultative board of three” – the father and his two sons. The “Takler Trio” farms 58 hectares in the best locations in the region.

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Trieber Geza Kadarka Szekszard 2013

Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Szekszard. Varietal 100% Kadarka. Appearance Deep ruby red. Nose Aromatic. Redberries. Oak. Palate Re-iteration of the intense redberries. Some spice. Finish Medium and balanced. Elegant. Alcohol 14% Verdict A clonal miracle. Inside Information: The estate is on the fine slopes of the Szekszárd wine region, in which 10 clones of Kadarka are grown on the eastern side. Currently on 5 hectares, it is expected that 3 more hectares will be acquired in the near future. With an objective to preserve traditions, a balance between traditional and modern technology is struck in the cellar. This wine has been barrel aged for 18-24 months.

Tasted June 2018 At Sky Lounge at Corinthia, Budapest. Region Mad, Tokaj. Varietal 100% Sargamuskotaly. Appearance Straw yellow. Nose Locust flowers in fresh bloom and acacia. Palate Creamy and smooth. Nectarines and honey. Hint of botrytis. Apricots and mint. Finish Unending, flavourful and perfectly balanced. Alcohol 9.5% Residual Sugar 110 g/l Verdict A truly noble wine. Inside Information: Grand Tokaj is the leading Hungarian winemaker in state ownership, a guardian and protector of the national wine making tradition. With ownership of 54 hectares of vineyard and an astonishing 1050 hectares under contract, this is the largest winery in the historical Tokaj- Hegyalja wine region which is a coveted UNESCO World Heritage site. Modernisation of the facilities in 2013 saw a storage tank facility of 66,000 hectoliters and a 10 million bottles bottling plant. In the vineyards, a geographic information system allows modelling of grape procurement and forward planning. All to ensure that Tokaj wines regain their rightful place.

Tokaj

Grand Tokaj Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2013

Tasted November 2017 At Hungarian Table Choreographies, New Delhi. Region Tokaj. Varietal 100% Furmint base wine with Hárslevelű, Zéta, Kabar, Kövérszőlő, Yellow Muscat Aszú added during fermentation. Appearance Golden yellow. Nose Fresh dried apricots, nectarines and tropical fruits. Spring chamomile blossoms with a hint of pepper. Palate Seductive. Jammy. Apricots and plums. Finish Mouth-filling. Long lasting. Harmonious. Alcohol 9% Verdict No need for dessert. Inside Information: This wine is made from 100% aszú grapes – shrivelled berries fully encompassed by botrytis are harvested. The fermentation takes place in the Szegi cellar where this wine is let to age in 136-500 litre barrels for at least 18 months. The result is an exquisite quality wine.

Béres Tokaji Magita Cuvée 2016

Tasted December 2018 At Hungarian Ambassador’s Residence, New Delhi. Region Tokaj. Varietal 67% Hárslevelű, 30% Furmint, 3% Sárgamuskotály. Appearance Bright golden yellow. Nose Enticing. Stone fruits. Christmas cake and spice. Palate Lush texture. Ripe apricots, tropical fruits and honey. Finish Lingering – almost everlasting. Defines balance. Residual Sugar 103 g/l Alcohol 11% Verdict Nectar in the glass. Inside Information: A very prestigious family owned, premium class, medium size winery in the Tokaj wine region that made its debut in 2003. State-of-the-art technology and a modern outlook works the historical plots of their estate which is a total of 45 hectares and the wines are outstanding – with even higher promise. “Every single drop is Béres” conveys that the winery upholds proven Béres values of quality, reliability and perseverance.

opron

Mátra

Tasted April 2017 At Tea and Wine at the T Club, New Delhi. Region Tokaj. Varietal Furmint, Harslevelu, Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. Appearance Light bright gold. Nose Orange peel, apricots and honey with hints of sweet spices. Palate Sweet lime, lychee, mangoes, honeycomb, caramel toffee and a bit of hazelnut. Lovely balance of ripe fruit and nuances of botrytis. Residual sugar 115 g/l Alcohol 11.67% Verdict Standout cloying sweetness. Inside Information: In the 19th century, the extravagant Russian Czar who was very fond of the “wines of the gods”, rented a village in the region of Tokaj from the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. About a dozen officers from his military were commissioned to stay in that village with clear orders – choose the best wines for the Czar. But the better part of the job was to taste all the wines and obviously get drunk. In the 21st century, Barta offers you a similar option. Stay in the historic Rákóczi-Aspremont mansion on the estate in the village of Mád and taste the wines of the estate – to get drunk is your choice!

Grand Tokaji Late Harvest Sargamuskotaly Tokaj 2015

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Barta Oreg Kiraly Dulo Tokaj Szamorodni 2013

Villany

Eger

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Photo: Corinthia Hotel Budapest

FINE Spotlight

SPOTLIGHT

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he landmark Chain Bridge on the River Danube links the glory of the past on the Buda side and that of the future on the Pest side in Hungarian Capital Budapest – the “Pearl of the Danube” – a stimulating blend of tradition and contemporary culture which is at the heart of Hungarian creativity. The natural setting of the city, its inspired architecture that say their piece, bustling and diverse culture, glorious heritage dating back many centuries – all string together to create an unparalleled offer to take a pick from.

Photo: Singhal 2018

The ‘Spa City’ for a good part of the post war years, its world famed thermal baths were identified by the Roman legionaries almost 2000 years ago. It is estimated that almost 70 million litres of thermal waters gush out of 123 natural hot springs and drilled wells – the healing powers are legendary!

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A culinary revolution has not been far behind. The celebrated creations of Hungarian cuisine can be savoured in the fingerlicking street food and the fusion menus at haughty establishments. From Michelin starred restaurants to vibrant bars to cruise boat restaurants on the river to pubs – an ultitude of gastronomic delights are precious treasures that make the soul of the city tick. >

BOCK BISTRO

THE NEW YORK CAFÉ

Much awarded chef Lajos Biro is notorious for being straight-forward and very outspoken – his first book is titled “I’m too much”. He leased the boulevard facing west wing of the Corinthia Royal Budapest Hotel to set up Bock Bistro, where the fare is a modern take on local dishes – a fusion of Spanish tapas inspired by traditional Hungarian cuisine – served in a casual, inviting and friendly ambience with an outstanding wine list selected by the acclaimed winemaker József Bock from only the best Hungarian local varieties.

Dating back to the turn of the 20th century, this eclectic Italian Renaissance-style edifice headquartered the New York Life Insurance company – hence the name, the New York Palace – and was home to nobility and artists. Restored to its original grandeur in 2006, this café on the Erzsébet Korut on the Pest side of the city, has earned the title, “The most Beautiful Café in the World”.

“No one has gone broke just because he tried to please his guests”, the team focusses on the basic tenets of hospitality – create excellent dishes of high quality, use only the finest and local ingredients, and serve them with style. Beautifully plated, generously large servings paired with an enjoyable glass by the in-house Sommelier and live accordion music wow diners. The awards have also come through – recommended by the Michelin Guide and Bib Gourmand among a whole cabinet of awards – but the “most important thing is still the guest’s satisfaction”. Bock Bistro Erzsébet körút 43-49, 1073 Budapest T: + 36 1 3210 340 • E: info@bockbisztro.hu

Magnificent frescoes dating back to the mid 19th century adorn the ceiling. Venetian glass, marble columns, rich brocade and gilded stuccoes complete the ornate décor – the place has a lovely Belle Époque charm – an inspiration for intellectuals and cultural visionaries. Actively part of the city’s gastronomic renaissance, the menu pays tribute to the multi-cultural cuisine of the AustroHungarian monarchy with classic dishes like Beef Goulash, Fishermen Soup and Chicken Leg Paprikash-style, not to forget famous desserts such as the Eszterházy cake. New York Café Erzsébet körút 9-11, 1073 Budapest T: +36 1-8866-167 www.newyorkcafe.hu

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Photo: Arvydas Venckus/unsplash.com

It could well be largest wine bar in Budapest – 360 wine references with a wide selection from Hungary and the world of which a constantly changing selection of 60 wines are offered by the glass! And to top that, almost any bottle is opened at the request of the guest.

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VERITAS WINEBAR

Tucked away in a vibrant district off Erzsébet körút on the Pest side, Veritas is a cool and stylish place. A place where wines can be discovered by wine virgins or dissected by wine lovers or flaunted by the wine snobs. The owner, István Pátzay, believes that “frequenting a wine bar is a lifestyle choice..”, and has tried to make sure that prices don’t come in the way of vinos becoming regulars at any time of the day. Keeping up with modern and healthy eating trends, the food offer is mostly curated with local, artisan and organic ingredients.

Veritas Wine Bar Dohány utca 58-62, 1074 Budapest VII T: + 36 30 471 0748 • E: info@veritaswinebar.hu www.veritaswinebar.hu

GERBEAUD Gerbeaud is among the most treasured gastronomic assets of Hungary. Traditions have been preserved through the two wars, a revolution and many owners, even if the business has required evolution from when it was founded in 1858. Gilded interiors, lavish chandeliers, polished marble and intricately carved wooden features adorn the Maison Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty tér which was reopened in 2010 following a grand make-over.

This is where Budapest converges to sin on finger-licking desserts at the opulent café on the square or the laidback terrace or onthe-go. Hailing from a family of pâtissiers, Emile Gerbeaud, made his brand a landmark – the cakes were immortalized by popular songs and the packaging was a work of art. The name-sake Gerbeaud cake is synonymous with the city. No visit is complete without it.

Not content to sit on laurels, current owners Katalin Pintér and Anna Niszkács have carried forward the spirit of innovation and introduce new flavours and textures to their patrons. The signature Gerbeaud 160 created by Chef Tamás László – for the 160th Anniversary – was such a creation. Gerbeaud Confectionery Vörösmarty Square 7-8, 1051 Budapest T: +36 1 429 9000

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Vibrant and inspiring. Glamorous and timeless. Relaxed and very affordable. These adjectives would usually not be taken in the same breath. Kollázs Brasserie & Bar is the contemporary brasserie at the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace. Derived from the Hungarian word for “collage”, the understated experience mirrors the creative permutations in the warm welcoming design that bridges the old and the new, the eclectic blend of local and international flavours, and the presentations that span authentic rustic to contemporary. All well thought of, by the chef, Árpád Győrff.

Photo: Csaba Barbay

KOLLAZS – BRASSERIE AND BAR

The Gresham Palace was built in a “Secession” style for the aristocracy at the turn of the century. A near perfect site at the foot of, and almost in alignment with, the Chain Bridge on the east bank of the Danube River. The palace embodies historic grandeur and youthful exuberance. Diligently restored to bring together almost two million mosaic tiles, an ornate Preciosa chandelier, grand stairways and winter gardens, it opened as a Four Seasons Hotel in 2004.

The Funicular

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Photo: Singhal 2018

Kollazs – Brasserie & Bar Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest Széchenyi István Tér 5-6, 1051 Budapest T +36 1 268 5408 • E: reservations@kollazs.hu www.kollazs.hu

FINE Spotlight

CAVIAR & BULL The most recent entrant has taken the Budapest restaurant scene by storm. “The minute you stand still, you automatically move back”, very thoughtful words of the very eminent Maltese Chef Marvin Gauci who has focussed on successfully raising the bar, ‘one incredible dish at a time’ – and seized the lease to open in the Corinthia Royal Budapest Hotel. Marvin hops tables, engaging his guests in tales about his restaurants and capturing valuable feedback from them – careful to sit down with only those who might be keen to share a conversation. An insider view of the kitchen is the special treat for a seat at the Chef’s Table. The menu is a delicious combination of colour, texture, scent and taste. Largely Mediterranean, it has a strong Hungarian imprint and is based on local produce as it targets the coveted Michelin rating. Served in a fine fine-dining setting, one is advised to ignore the cutlery and enjoy eating with hands! A unique experience that is based on views, hues and symphony of taste.

Caviar & Bull Erzsébet körút 43-49, 1073 Budapest T: +36 30 8 32 32 32 www.caviarandbull.com

ONYX Onyx Restaurant was born when Katalin Pintér of the Gerbeaud Gasztronómia Kft. set out to give Hungary a haute cuisine restaurant of international acclaim. The 55 cover restaurant is housed on the first floor of Maison Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty Square. The interiors share a glimpse into the cuisine – the ornate palatial interiors blend with the modern cabinets showcasing the wine. Building on the legendary traditions, Chef Ádám Mészáros, focusses on innovation and new techniques to create the dishes on the menu using the finest regional ingredients. The “Within Our Borders” menu emphasizes the highest quality domestic components and the “Beyond Our Borders” menu focusses on the creativity and imaginations of the chefs. A unique culinary indulgence and adventure through re-interpreted, extravagantly executed Hungarian dishes. Onyx was awarded the first Michelin star in 2011 (and every year since). The second star in 2018 made it uniquely the very first Two Michelin Star restaurant in Hungary.

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Hungarian

Table Choreographies Text: Ritu and Rajiv Singhal Photographs: Embassy of Hungary New Delhi

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FINE Experience

winter afternoon at the Residence of Hungary. The tea was served in the most exquisite eye-catching porcelain. And rather quickly, our conversation with H.E. The Ambassador of Hungary to India, Gyula Pethő, and his wife, Annamária Somogyi, moved from wine… The piece of art was from Zsolnay – one in the prized collection of traditional chinaware from Hungary at the Residence. FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Chinaware has a very special connect for both of us. Rajiv grew up dining in the finest from Great Britain that would be elaborately laid out on the dining table and Ritu received an enviable collection from her mother-in-law. This might have been our inspiration to create a market for luxury tableware in India, which was hitherto non-existent, with Churchill China and Villeroy & Boch. We must have done something right – H.M. Queen Elizabeth II graced our launch on her last state visit to New Delhi in 1997! A few months later, we received a very special invitation from Gyula and Annamária for the Hungarian Table Choreographies – a unique dinner to showcase the products and traditions of porcelain makers alongside a cultural feast from Hungary – that was laid out at the Residence of Hungary in New Delhi with Judit Merkler-Szántó, Founder and Managing Director of Art Around the Table with the help of Dr. Zoltan Wilhelm, Director of the Hungarian Information and Cultural Centre. 98

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We were welcomed with a flute of Hungarian sparkling wine, Chateau Vincent, a furmint based Methode Traditionnelle non-vintage from the Tokaj region. A card with a floral pattern is handed to each guest as we were shown around the spectacular pop-up display of Hungarian porcelain curated from the various collections in the Residence. In the dining area, four table settings had been laid out for us. Each one was based on a dinner set from the iconic Hungarian porcelain companies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Kalocsa, Zsolnay and Herend â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that been beautifully laid out. The table settings were perfectly co-ordinated with napkins, centre appointments and menu cards that were designed and painted in the same pattern of the dinner set especially for this occasion by talented, young Hungarian artists and designers. One noticed how even the invitation cards had been designed to carry the dinner set patterns.

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The napkins on each table were different from the other one. They mirrored the dinner set design and were hand-painted, embroidered and folded in an origami style – quite stunning! The centre-pieces on each table were handcrafted to combine the elements of the dinner set design and painted flowers designed especially for this occasion. Some of us had managed to misplace the little card that was handed to us – it was the code to the table assigned to us. Annamaria was kind enough to allow us to pick another one and all guests were seated so that the story for the evening could unfold. As we toasted to the aesthetics, our hosts shared with us that porcelain-making in Hungary dates back to the late 18th century – Hollóháza was founded in 1777 – and the

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traditions are very closely guarded. Many makers are still able to produce collections that involve intense intricate hand work from master artists even today. Entire patterns are unique and can’t be duplicated – every stroke is hand done – and most orders are made to order for the customer! The main aim of the evening was to give the selected guests a unique experience that would evoke the common elements of

Indian and Hungarian culture through the installations, music and menu. The four showcase tables were bound together by a special mark of outstanding quality – each one is a “Hungarikum”. A “Hungarikum” is a unique registry that classifies Hungarian natural values and national products including those that should be preserved and protected. It is a collective term for those values/ products that

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are worthy of distinction and are considered an outstanding value of the Hungarian people thanks to their typically Hungarian attribute, uniqueness, specialty and quality. It is a repository that reinforces the sense of togetherness, unity and national awareness and presents Hungarian values/ products in Hungary and abroad. Dinner was served. Annamaria had planned an elaborate menu, in which the ingredients and flavours common to India and Hungary were combined to present a feast, with The Executive Chef Jay Kumar of the Residence and his team. Red Paprika is the most commonly used spice in Hungarian cuisine and it was the key seasoning in the dishes we savoured through the evening.

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If the plates were beautiful, the plating was not far behind – a feast for the eyes. Gyula prized out some special Hungarian wines from his cellar and we were treated to some really lovely bottles and even more special digestives. A delightful evening that was so well choreographed by Annamaria – the special installations on the table, the creations from the kitchen, the wine forms that included liquid gold, the magnificent residence – all blended in perfectly. Gyula summed up the evening, “in this digital age, in the virtual world that we have created around us, there is a real need to spend real time together at the same place and same time. We are very grateful that you spent this evening with us. This is not the end. We will continue to do this.” We had our invite for another special Hungarian evening from very gracious hosts. >

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pearl of Hungarian Culture. This ancient town was founded in the year 1001 by Saint Stephen, the first king of Hungary, and became an important cultural centre even though most of its inhabitants work in agriculture. Folk-art originating from this region is inspired by the famous Hungarian Red Paprika motif – strings of which are left to dry on the walls before grinding to powder – this is complemented by flowers in very simple compositions. Women specialized in drawing – or as it is called in Hungary – ‘writing’ the patterns paint the walls of their houses with decorative patterns and make embroideries. Of late, Kalocsa patterns have inspired the fashion world. 104

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The Kalocsa Porcelain Manufacturing domiciled in the historical town of Kalocsa has been producing high-quality, richly decorated, hand-painted porcelain products since 1971. A tradition of several hundreds of years and the colourful folklore of the region that is so beautifully combined with the art of porcelain painting has been preserved. Colourful and cheerful, this folk art is easy to recognise. When privatised in 1996, its workers acquired ownership, and they continue to hand paint the porcelainware that is much-sought-after internationally. The designs and lines have remained unchanged for years, which makes it possible to reorder the same products years later.

he history of the very talented Zsolnay family is intertwined with that of Pécs, a very old town in south-west Hungary that was founded by the Romans in the 2nd century under the name Sopiane. The porcelain factory was founded in 1852 by Miklos Zsolnay, but it was his multi-faceted son, Vilmos – businessman, artist, ceramist, inventor – who made the brand world famous. Driven by, “I always want to replace the good with the better”, Vilmos was also decorated by the French Government with the order of the Légion d’Honneur in 1878. At the 1878 Paris World Fair, innovative products like ‘pirogranite’ and ‘porcelain faience’ were shown and won the Grand Prix Gold Medal

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– pirogranite pieces were used by architects and artists in their commissions that decorate famous buildings built in the Austro-Hungarian monarchy and Central Europe. Zsolnay’s bestknown and most carefully guarded invention (still made only by Zsolnay) is the ‘eosin’ glaze – a unique opal metallic lustre that resembles the shining dawn light – named after the Greek Goddess of the Dawn, Eos. The brand has upheld tradition and artistic value even as it pioneered technological advances in its age. Zsolnay's unique glaze and dye technology, are unique. The base ivory color and the rich color tones in the décor make each creation unrepeatable, unique and unique!

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he legendary Hungarian porcelain maker was founded in 1826 by Vince Stingl and christened in the town where it was born, an agricultural district not far from Lake Balaton, the largest lake in Central Europe. Herend balances tradition and innovation that transitioned into the 21st Century. The values of skills passed through generations, time tested traditions of porcelain making, secret recipes that bring the ingredients to life, the drive for outstanding quality and continuous renewal are embodied. Focussing on tableware, ornaments and figurines, Herend creations have been inspired by numerous artistic styles to create the very unique and very characteristic Herend world. Widely awarded, Herend found international acclaim and patronage of the royals. The title of Supplier to the Imperial and Royal Court, the highest recognition from the Imperial Court, was awarded by Emperor Francis Joseph, who also bestowed the Certificate of Nobility on the owner, Mór Fischer. The pace that powered the Herend story, as it is known today, was set under his management who took over the reins of the indebted company in 1839. Extremely large orders were placed by Emperor Francis Joseph. The tableware for the personal use of Emperor was set in gold with the

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imperial seal, his military officers got pink, and his courtsmen got lilac. Hungarian Statesman from the 19th Century, Count Albert Apponyi inspired the Apponyi pattern. The set that incorporated his suggestion of the enlarged main motif of the ‘Indian Basket of Flowers’ pattern found its way onto the tables of the Elysée Palace at the state reception in honour of Emperor Francis Joseph. A special dinner set decorated with orientally-inspired butterflies, flowers and blooming branches was ordered by Queen Victoria at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851 and is known since as the Victoria pattern. A modern interpretation of this pattern – Royal Garden – was specially created for the Hungarian State as a gift for the Royal Wedding of the Duke of Cambridge, Prince William. Gift pieces to mark the christening of Prince George and Princess Charlotte Elizabeth Diana were created to extend the set. At the turn of the millennium, Herend managed to ward off acquisition threats from global tableware majors and re-structured itself into a very unique ownership structure in which almost three-fourths of the shareholding is held by its employees. The company has grown to become the world's largest porcelain manufacturer that operates as a profitable enterprise that is proudly Hungarian.

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COLUMN

MARY KAE IRVIN

MOVIES WINES

AND

hen I was first introduced to the wine industry in the United States, the year was 1985. I was a newly minted 21 year old – just barely legal to enjoy alcohol. On route to a job interview, I took a wrong turn (both literally and figuratively) that led me to what would

become a major change of course in my life. I stopped for directions in a beautiful park like setting surrounded by fountains, flower, trout ponds, beautiful trees and a French Empire style Chateau. “Now this,” I thought, “is lovely! I’d love to work in a place like this!” The place was the Chateau Ste Michelle Winery, a fairly young and upcoming enterprise at the time. They offered me a job, and my wine journey began.

Though I was a quick study, there was much to

a la Natalie Portman – think French Chablis.

learn. What better way to catalogue information

But, showcasing her varietal character with or

in my newfound interest than to marry it to

without the mantle of oak – she’s typically the

things I already knew? I loved movies and acting

most complex of the Divas – she’s Meryl Streep,

so in an effort to help myself better understand

Susan Sarandon, Katherine Hepburn, Audrey

and remember wine styles I set about casting a

Hepburn... Elegantly crafted and intelligent,

movie with wine:

she has warranted the most care and attention

Chardonnay is my Leading Lady (Best Actress) – smart, sophisticated and sexy. She

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to detail in her handling. Sauvignon

Blanc

would

Best

might be curvy and voluptuous like Marilyn

Supporting Actress – along with Semillon,

Monroe – think barrel fermented California

Pinot Gris, and Viognier – not quite as complex

ageing ‘sur lees’. She might be lean and sinewy

or layered. She’s the best friend, witty side-kick

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and likeable support – she’s Allison Janney,

find your aesthetic, and run with it. For me,

both grow and craft, we’re always in search of

Laurie Metcalf, Helena Bonham Carter CBE.

a well crafted ‘Cab’ is one you’d love to have

the memorable ones. At its best, he is a perfectly

When you burn out on Chardonnay, she’s the

dinner with today, but would be even sexier and

suave and easy – he’s Mathew McConaughey

company you long for, the welcome respite.

desirable in 20 years.

complete with polished shoes. A spicy, smoky and hedonistic Syrah – think Antonio Banderas

Which leaves us our ingenues – Riesling,

Best Supporting Actors – each have a

Chenin and Gewurztraminer – the Sweet-

personality of their own. Take Merlot. He’s

Young-Things. They are Baywatch Babes of the

Albert Brooks, James Corden, John Goodman –

wine industry – simple, lovely, vivacious – enjoy

he’s got the love handles, is approachable, non-

Rosé is my Disney Channel young adult star

them now as they may not last the test of time.

threatening, congenial and almost everybody

of the day – simple and certainly palatable at

likes him – he’s the “fun guy” in the room.

“that” moment on a picnic or on the water, but

My Leading Man (Best Actor) is Cabernet

in Zorro – offers a mealtime sizzle factor while never taking itself too seriously.

not a lot of depth – unlikely that some years

Sauvignon or any wines using ‘Cab’ as a

Other Best Supporting’s include wonderful

backbone in the blend. Again, he is sexy,

blenders – like Malbec – alone he’s very Johnny

muscular, assertive, a bit of swagger, hair-on-

Depp – a chameleon – depending on where the

Of course, there are many other wines that

his-chest, yet elegant – he’s Harrison Ford, Paul

grape is grown, it presents differently subject

don’t show up on this cast list, but an overview

Newman, Anthony Hopkins, Sean Connery

to terroir. In a blend, it fills in all the gaps like

for those folks just logging wine styles into their

– they age gracefully. Just when you thought

grout on a mosaic. Then there’s Cabernet Franc.

mental rolodex (if you’re my generation) or

they’d hit their peak, they just continued to get

He’s Gregory Peck with a firm tannin core – he

smartphones. I find this very helpful. Hope you

better. Granted, not every Cabernet is going

gives gravitas and depth just like the grape to the

do to! >

to be George Clooney in a tux – some might

Bordeaux blends. Pinot Noir is the stand-alone

present more like Jeff Bridges in True Grit – so

Supporting Actor and while temperamental to

from now, you will remember the name.

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Luxury

on the

Bosphorus Text: Ritu & Rajiv Singhal Photographs: Çirağan Palace Kempinski

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political boundaries of Europe and Asia as they flow through the heart of

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T he shimmering clear blue waters of the famed Bosphorus caress the Istanbul â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the city that was the seat of the mighty Byzantine and Ottoman empires for over 1500 years and is now a bustling cosmopolitan metropolis where a ferry ride from Europe to Asia (and back) is just under a euro!

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to restore the Palace and execute the plans for a new luxury hotel in the traditional Turkish architecture that were whetted by the Council of Historic Buildings. The Kempinski Group would manage the property which opened its historic gates in 1992.

Istanbul Classic

Many phases of modernisation and renovations later, the Çirağan Palace Kempinski Istanbul is the jewel on the European shores of the Bosphorus that mirrors the glamorous life of ultimate luxury of an Ottoman Sultan for its guests.

A Legend

The only Ottoman Imperial Palace on the Bosphorus where the Sultan’s once lived, the Çirağan Palace has a heritage that dates back to the 17th century. The Sultan’s daughter hosted lamp-lit celebrations or “Çirağan Festivals”, in the lush gardens that extended from Ortaköy to Beşiktaş. The Persian word Çirağan meaning “lamps” became synonymous with the Bosphorus shore-line. Sultan Abdülaziz completed the Palace in an “Eastern” style with North African influence and moved in in 1871. No expense was spared to pander to his opulent tastes – the finest marbles, motherof-pearl, rare woods and special craftsmen were brought in from all over the world. The final bill – 2.5 million Ottoman gold coins! A devastating fire in 1910 reduced the splendour to ashes. During the post-war occupation of Istanbul, the charred ruins of the Palace were barracks for the French Military and the grounds were home to the Beşiktaş Football Team. After many decades of neglect, the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism took on a very ambitious project to bring back the glory of the Çirağan and its gardens – the R. H. Sanbar Group secured the mandate 112

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We are celebrating a landmark anniversary. Our dear friends, H.E. Şakir Özkan Torunlar (Ambassador of Turkey to India) and his wife Leyla, have weighed in on our choice of Istanbul as a destination. It is going to be our first ever visit to the historic Eurasian city. As regards our lodgings, it seems that there is no choice – Çirağan Palace it has to be! Bookings done, the concierge Sinan shares details of the special Çirağan Welcome Service – we could choose to arrive by helicopter at the helipad at the Palace entrance on the Bosphorus, by yacht at the Palace jetty or by

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limousine. The service is a very strong recommend – we are welcomed by the CWS team at the aircraft door and zipped out (with all our bags) of the very busy Istanbul Atatürk Airport extremely swiftly to our designated Bimmer 7. As we purr through the boulevards of Istanbul on a bright sunny day, we soak in the sights of an imposing skyline that juxtaposes the conservative past with the modern present. As we drive past the Yildiz Park, once the hunting grounds for the Sultans (now the green lung in Beşiktaş), we manage to translate the message flashed by our chauffeur, that we are approaching our destination. The Indian flag has a position of prominence at the entrance of the Çirağan Palace. The doormen in coattails usher us through the mandatory security checks and the front office team in their very smart Turkish red finery offer a lovely bunch of Palace garden flowers and a traditional welcome in the cheerfully bright plush lobby – where floor to ceiling artworks are accentuated by the imposing flower arrangements and locally crafted kilims.

Majestic Bosphorus

Expecting to be trans-continental haggards on arrival, we have requested an express check-in to our room. Of course, it’s the must-have Bosphorus-view but it’s quite literally on the Bosphorus – just some metres from it! We raise a toast with Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Premier on our private balcony with a panoramic view on the imposing suspension bridge, the city’s Asian shore, the historic peninsula, Maiden’s Tower and some glimpses of the old city. The magnificence of the ancient waters of the Bosphorus is simply stunning… Most of the Çirağan’s 310 rooms are designed to offer a Bosphorus view – glorified by travel reviews through the centuries – and almost every spot in the complex offers a special view. The rooms that harmoniously tie-in the European influence on Asian heritage are luxuriously large and very comfortable – we have six pillows on the bed to choose from and an additional menu just in case! The amenities are Tuscan Soul by Salvatore Ferragamo with special fragrances for his & hers – how very thoughtful.

The soaps are handmade from a selection of natural products – sealed with the Turkish Nazar Boncugu (evil eye charm).

German Workhorse

Ralph Radtke, the highly decorated General Manager, welcomes us at the Bosphorus Grill, and thanks us for choosing his Palace for our special celebration. We raise another glass of Louis Roederer – the Palace’s chosen champagne. Ralph has worked in 17 countries on all continents over several decades. At the Çirağan Palace Kempinski Istanbul since 2011, he is rather matter-offact. “Çirağan has a place in the history of Turkey. Three sultans lived in the Palace. These are the very walls of the Sultan’s Palace”. Ralph is a bundle of energy and has a hawk-eye for detail – he quietly alerts staff to a missing fork on the wobbling table. He is distracted as he spots a flurry of activity – a busload of grammar school valedictorians are taking their time to pass through the private gardens to board their sunset cruise at the Çirağan pier. Ralph admits to being a showman – an actor – the hotel is his stage. Just that the play changes every day!

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Fairy-Tale Weddings

In recent years, travel advisories were issued by governments of many countries, that constitute important markets for the hotel, following the events of unrest in Turkey. And, the devaluation of the Turkish Lira is putting the luxurious environs of the Çirağan Palace out of bounds for the locals. In these trying times, Ralph tells us, “we try not to put all our eggs in one basket. We are focussing on emerging markets like China and India and on weddings.” Under this direction, the Çirağan’s team of wedding professionals vests itself in the latest international trends and popular themes. The historic architecture, the glory of the Bosphorus, the fa m o u s marble staircase, the grand ballrooms piece together the unparalleled settings for epic dreamscome-true weddings for anything upto 1200 guests. The breath-taking decorations, cherrypicked menus across several international cuisines, doting 116

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service, personal bridesmaids and butlers – all bring the human touch to create a lasting memory. The bride’s and groom’s wishes are the team’s command – the team put their best foot forward to ensure that expectations are met, and the couple can enjoy the ceremonies without a care.

Ottoman Treat

Tuğra is the signature restaurant of the Çirağan Palace that revives the glamour of an era – rich velvet curtains, intricately carved woodwork, extravagant paintings and gold gilded glassware are complemented by the customised plates crowned with the flourish of the “Sultan’s signature”. Based on historical references, Chef Hüseyin Ulaş and his team have created dishes just the way they were served to the Sultans – for the “ultimate Ottoman dining experience” – and this has been widely recognised in international awards. Our table is booked for 7pm. A rose sherbet in an ornate gold rimmed crystal glass is served as

Pièce de Résistance

We take up Neslihan Sen, Director of Public Relations, and her colleague, Cansu Baş, on their offer to take us on a guided tour of the property. “Çirağan Palace is an Ambassador of Turkish hospitality”. The autographed photographs of the heads of state, government delegates, billionaires,

royal families, film stars, artists and celebrities on large walls in the reception area are testimony to the countless eminent figures that have come through the Çirağan doors.

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we arrive at the Tuğra Terrace. From our table, we see the Bosphorus gleaming in the sun and glittering under the lights as day transitions to night. Our menu fo r the evening allows us to sample the classics – the “Testi Lamb Casserole” cooked in the traditional Anatolian clay pot and “Sebzavat Aşi” a special vegetarian casserole with produce from the Palace gardens. Nicolas Feuillatte Cuvée Palmes d'Or Brut Millesime are our bubbles for the evening. Sommelier Yücel insists on suggesting a bold Turkish red that shares the name, Tuğra, based on the Öküzgözü grape from the Denizli wine region.

A black and gold iron grill separates the new from the old. The Palace is uniquely steeped in history! Neslihan walks us through the incredibly well documented and preserved archives of the Çirağan Palace. And draws our attention to the carving on the remains of a stone pillar, “this ancient pattern is the inspiration for our logo”. The towering ceilings, glorious chandeliers, opulent wall embellishments, grand staircases and stone pillars have been pain-stakingly restored. Not surprisingly, awards galore. “These recognitions re-iterate that the Çirağan Palace is timeless. The awards offer comfort to guests, who expect nothing but the best”. The Palace and its grounds are buzzing with activity – a film crew is shooting with a celebrity – and Neslihan very discreetly upholds guest privacy.

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Wine philosophy

The Turkish Republic decreed in 1927 that the government monopoly would take control of the production of all alcoholic beverages – but private production of wine and vineyard development was permitted – with a view to protect and develop the local wine industry. The cellar at the Çirağan Palace – inspired by the Ottoman patronage – stores treasures from around the world for their well-heeled guests – from vintage champagne to first growth Bordeaux from exceptional vintages. Not unexpectedly, though. Extremely proud of the many millenniums of wine-making in Turkey, Director of Food & Beverage Marie Grosyeux, believes that it is critical to be respectful of the local culture and showcase local wines. Turkish wines may not be very popular in the city, but this didn’t deter the Çirağan from taking the lead to create a focus on this novelty category – 77 references from white to red to rose to sweet… and 9 wines by the glass!

Sevilen Premium Chardonnay 2014 Region Sevilentepe, Menderes. Varietal Chardonnay. Appearance Light golden yellow. Nose Subtle. Ananas. Hints of vanilla. Palate Buttery. Creamy. Citrusy. Finish Dry. Full. Good acidity. When to drink Now. Ageing 12 months. Verdict Exotic.

Sarafin Merlot 2016 Region Saroz. Varietal Merlot. Appearance Dark ruby. Nose Complex. Nuances of vanilla. Palate Black fruits. Hint of spice. Finish Soft. Lightly oaky. Long. When to drink Now to 2022. Ageing 12 months. Barrels 225 litres French. Verdict Plumpish.

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Sarafin Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Region Saroz. Varietal Cabernet Sauvignon. Appearance Dark violet. Nose Cherries and carnations. Palate Tightly textured. Nuances of bitter chocolate. Finish Intense. Layers open up. Appreciable tannins. When to drink Now to 2025. Ageing 14 months. Barrels 225 litre French. Alcohol 14.5% Verdict Bold and beautiful.

Doluca Tugra Okuzgozu 2015 Region Denizli. Varietal Öküzgözü. Appearance Deep ruby with a purple rim. Nose Closed and shy. Fruity. Palate Menthol. Dark fruits. Strong and fleshy. Soft tannins. Finish Medium bodied. Well balanced. Good length. When to drink Now to 2022. Ageing 5 months on lees and 7 months without lees. Barrels 70% French and 30% American. Alcohol 14.96% Verdict An excellent expression of the varietal.

Karma Shiraz Bogazkere 2014 Region Denizli and Diyarbakir. Varietal Shiraz and Bogazkere. Appearance Deep ruby with bluish tinges. Nose Fruity. Hints of tobacco. Palate Fruit forward. Puckery tannins. Finish Jammy. Vibrant acidity. Powerful. Lasting. When to drink Now to 2022. Ageing 8 months. Barrels French and American. Verdict Immaculate.

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The Restaurants

A royal repast is laid out at the Çirağan Palace with a multitude of culinary delights. Istanbul socialites have discovered the place “to see and to be seen”. The Gazebo Lounge reflects an elegant Turkish style in the elevation, rugs and the stoneware. A few bottles of Turkish wine gems are always kept for those guests who might want to be adventurous. The Turkish coffee is an absolute must – even if just for the aesthetics of the presentation. A more than elaborate breakfast of around 250 dishes is set in the Laledan Restaurant. Basis organic, the options range from regional specialities to health foods to international favourites. Enjoy a king’s breakfast with a glass (or more) of champagne and a relaxing view of the palm courts and the 17th century gate in the gardens. Executive Chef Sezai Erdogan brought together skilled chefs from the holy land of Baklava in Anatolia to create the Çirağan Palace’s own Baklava Room – a first for a luxury hotel in Istanbul. More than 15 types of finger-licking Baklava are on offer. Le Fumoir & Pavilion is very popular with the city socialites and guests. Set in the lush green gardens amidst the palm trees, it as the “only place to have hookah and shisha in style” while enjoying the refreshing breeze of the Bosphorus.

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“On the mystical waters” would best describe the al-fresco Bosphorus Grill that is operational in summers. Spectacular panoramic views complement the Turkish cuisine and large selection of seafood. Don’t miss the ice-cream cart!

Stay Healthy

The "Infinity Pool" takes centre-stage in the Çirağan Gardens. A dip is rewarded with spectacular views and it seems that one is floating on the Bosphorus from the European side to the Anatolian side. A relaxing cool-off in the summer and the pleasure of swimming in a pool surrounded by snow in the winter. For the health freaks, a very well-fitted gym for the international traveller, gender specific sauna-steam rooms and an indoor pool and jacuzzi for those who prefer

ambient temperature. The Çirağan Palace Kempinski Spa is managed by Sanitas. “Indulge your spirit and restore balance in your mind, body and soul”, the treatment offerings are quite elaborate. Hammams were culturally significant and very popular in the local context – not just for cleansing and relaxing the body but also socializing and celebrating – thankfully the tradition survived. Sanitas recreated the authentic and luxurious atmosphere of Turkish baths. Carefully prepped by the masseuse for the “Pasha Treatment” and asked to lie on the central platform in the marble clad hammam room, the body is rubbed down with a textured mitt and covered with the fragrant froth of soap to cleanse and revitalise the skin. End-result – a feeling of relaxation and wellbeing.

Despite the array of dining options in the Palace, we are spoilt silly by the generous servings of the choicest Baklavas, insanely juicy fruits, cakes and chocolates and savoury local delicacies in decorative silver platters that appear in our room every time we step out. Not content with bulging our waist-lines during our stay, a lovely replica of the façade of the Çirağan Palace in chocolate was offered as our take-away memory – we are already carrying so many more.

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taxis, yachts, dinghies, motor launches, fishing caiques) and even a submarine – a thrilling seascape of sea vessels on display.

The Çirağan Palace Kempinski Istanbul is a paradise for those who enjoy the good things in life – where every guests’ wish is a command. Our special getaway was crowned with a royal flair – we lived moments of history. >

Anticipating needs

From the private lounge area in the rooms, one can sit and indulge in the Bosphorus views. It seems that the straits are rather busy – the international ships (oil tankers, tramp steamers, container vessels, cruise liners), the local boats (ferries, FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

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