Sur la Terre - Issue 15 Doha (July 2011) by Firefly Communications

FOREWORD. >>> Fasting. Culture. Charity. Aside from the obvious testing of faith, to the uninitiated, these three words represent the more familiar aspects of Ramadan. It is these three pillars of the Holy Month that we have chosen to focus on in this issue which, fortuitously, arrives just in time to celebrate all that is great about the month-long religious festival. So let’s start with Fasting. For many, the long hours of self-imposed starvation culminates in a glorious night of feasting and socialising as we break fast at Iftar and carry on late into the night. With so many rich foods and fabulous flavours to enjoy, it is not surprising that many of us binge our way to torpidity after sunset. Fortunately, we have Bahraini author and nutritional therapist, Alia Almoayed, here to guide us through the crucial dos and don’ts of Iftar and Suhour eating which, if followed, will guarantee you will feel fitter, not fatter, by the time Eid arrives. As the bountiful Ramadan tents spring up in the region’s fine hotels, the night time will be filled with whirling dervishes, traditional music and of course thick plumes of shisha smoke. Shisha, and the narghile pipe itself, is an icon of Arabic culture, so SLT takes a brief look at the origins of this vapourous diversion and re-discovers the narghile in a modern context thanks to Lebanese design firm, Ex Nihilo. The cultural journey doesn’t stop there, as we have a special Up Close & Personal with Till Fellrath and Sam Bardaouil, the curators of Mathaf’s inaugural Told/Untold/ Retold exhibition and founders of Art Reoriented, an organisation championing the cause of Arabic and Middle Eastern contemporary art on a global scale. Finally to the third, and perhaps most important pillar of Ramadan: Charity. Sophie JonesCooper discovers that East & West are only a “chukka” apart when it comes to supporting great causes, when she joins British and GCC Royalty at the 15th King Abdullah Polo Cup in Windsor, UK, played annually in support of the charitable initiatives of the BMG Foundation. Just as the Holy Month is one small island of faith adrift in a long and busy year, our tailored Ramadan coverage, too, is just a small part of what to expect when you turn the page. Kevin Hackett takes us to Italy to drive the Ferrari FF, while Tim Stevens stays home to ride the new Ducati 1198S. I review the region’s most stylish hotel, while Steve Paugh enjoys a 5-year long Scottish romance. With the addition of Cad & The Dandy’s style guide for the sartorial gent, all of the latest international fashion as well as the most exclusive products from around the globe and available locally, all that is left for me to do is to wish you all a safe and happy Holy Month. Ramadan Kareem, everyone. James mcCarthy Regional Managing Editor

• sur la terre • foreword •

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sur la terre

Editorial

Regional Managing Editor James McCarthy j.mccarthy@firefly-me.com Senior Editor Steve Paugh s.paugh@firefly-me.com Fashion & Style Sophie Jones-Cooper s.jones-cooper@firefly-me.com

Contributors Alia Almoayed Kevin Hackett Megan Masterson Tim Stevens Luisa Tagariello

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• sur la terre • details •

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10 EARTH 10 • the list 18 • the scene 28 • globe trotter 30 • for your eyes only 33 • revue 38 • style confidential 42 • in focus

WATER 47 • up close and personal 53 • accessories 58 • feature 64 • trends confidential 68 • look book

WIND 72 • in motion 80 • fashion 87 • design FIRE 92 • horizons 100 • origins 104 • market place 106 • out of the box 108 • beauty 112 • between the lines Sur la Terre is published bi-monthly. © 2011 Firefly Communications. All material strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, without the prior written permission of Firefly Communications, is strictly forbidden.

• sur la terre • contents •

THE LIST

THE SCENE

GLOBE TROTTER

FOR YOUR EYES ONLY

REVUE

STYLE CONFIDENTIAL

IN FOCUS

arts & culture

Ramadan Kareem!

When: August 2011 Where: Various What: With the arrival of the crescent moon in the early August night sky, Muslims across the world will begin to celebrate their holiest month. Fasting is the most recognised activity during this period, but it is just one of the pillars of the Islamic faith, helping to remind Muslims of the plight of the poor, sick and needy. In Qatar, Ramadan has been known to be marked by the firing of a traditional Arab canon near the Corniche area, and the call to prayer, with Imams beckoning people to the mosques for When: September 24th prayer and to share food with family, friends and the less Where: Opera House, Katara, Doha fortunate. Eid al-Fitr marks the end of the fasting period What: Once again, the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra will be delighting and is a great celebration throughout the Muslim world, Doha-based music lovers with an amazing programme this coming September. with fireworks, functions and various activities occuring Starting at 7:30pm, new Music Director, Michalis Economou, will conduct his around the country. In the evening of Eid al-Fitr, it is inaugural performance to the tune of Tchaikovsky’s Romeo and Juliet. Also on common to get together with friends, families and tap for the evening is a bounty of beautiful sounds in the form of El Saedi’s Festive loved ones for a feast, while cafes and restaurants Overture, Beethoven’s Symphony No. 2 in D Major (Op. 36) and Mussorgsky’s around Doha fill to the brim with young and old Night on Bald Mountain. The classical community in Doha is expecting big things alike as they come together and socialise until from Economou, who studied musicology at Athens University as well as violin, the early hours of the following day. theory, and composition at the National Conservatory of Athensbefore obtaining his www.ramadan.com Doctorate of Musical Arts in composition. He has won eleven national and international competitions including the prestigious ALEA III International Composition and the Dimitris Mitropoulos International Composition Competitions, and has conducted the Athens State Orchestra, the Kamerata Orchestra of Megaron, the Municipal and State Orchestras of Thessaloniki, the Orchestra of Colours, the Contemporary Radio Orchestra of Greece and various others. Do not miss the maestro and the Qatar Philharmonic in action! www.qatarphilharmonicorchestra.org

Qatar Philharmonic

Mathaf’s New Exhibition: Swalif

When: August 14th - October 29th Where: Arab Museum of Modern Art, Doha What: The Mathaf Arab Museum of Modern Art is all set to present Swalif: Qatari Art Between Memory and Modernity, which will feature art from the country between the 1960s and early 2000s. Twenty-three artists will tell the story of Qatar over five decades, focusing on the strong visual narrative that brings a country’s bedouin traditions together with its newfound position as a global financial leader in mineral wealth. “Swalif,” which in Arabic means a sort of casual conversation, defines the laid back, slice-of-life climate of the exhibition that the organisers hope to produce. Featured during the exhibition will be the works of HE Sheikh Hassan bin Mohamed bin Ali Al-Thani, Jassim Zai, Ali Abdulla, Ahmed al-Asadi and Senior Curatorial Advisor of the exhibition, Yousef Ahmad. To make the exhibition more hands-on, the Mathaf educational department will simultaneously run programmes, offering a number of workshops and opening community dialogues with the artist themselves for a deeper understanding of each one’s work, as well as the entire exhibition as a whole. www.mathaf.org.qa

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Lagoona Mall

When: August Where: Doha, Qatar What: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been a long wait, but we here at Sur la Terre are sure it will have been worth it when Lagoona Shopping Mall, in the shadow of Dohaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Zig Zig Towers, opens its doors for the first time in August. Eventually, the mall will boast the best and most fashionable names like Rolex, Zegna, Boucheron, Brioni, Bose, Moreschi and of course, the hometown hero, 51 East, among others. The impressive mall will have a total area of 127,000 square metres, which includes a fully landscaped 20,000 square metre European Piazza lined with restaurants. The highly anticipated mall is destined to be a five-star shopping experience, replete with twinkling chandeliers, glass and Moroccan marble highlights nestled amongst rich woods and intimate lighting. When the soft opening commences in August, it will be plain to see it is more than a mall, it is a luxury experience. www.lagoonaqatar.com

lifestyle

Lebanese Film Academy Summer Camp

IFDEX Qatar

When: October 3rd - 5th Where: Doha Exhibition Centre What: All of you budding interior designers, prepare for one of the regions biggest furniture, house wares and luxury decor events. INFDEX opens its doors When: August 29th - September 15th in October for the 10th year running, providing a glimpse into all that is possible Where: Lebanon when looking to refresh the look and feel of your decadent dwelling. Organised What: Would you like to spend three weeks in conjunction with Messe Frankfurt, around 120 big name home furnishing living in a bungalow eating homemade Lebanese brands from all over the world will attend the event, showing an array of food and making films? If this is your thing, then this living space layouts and combinations; if you are looking to make a change summer film camp is for you. Offering hands-on film at home then we can guarantee you will find some inspiration here. From workshops with Arab and European experts in both fabulous flooring to sumptuous sofas, glittering lamps will shed light on 16mm and 35mm cameras, as well as lighting, gripping and all of the possibilities for your dream home. www.qatar-expo.com other film equipment, all while enjoying sports and other recreational camping activities in the mountains of Lebanon, the camp is a must-attend if movie-making is your passion. If you are a professional, student or a keen amateur interested in discovering Lebanon through a lens, there are classes for every level. Photo, TV, communication or Film students enrolled in any university in the world get internal transportation and full accommodation for free. Run by the Lebanese Film Academy, the course will be overseen by Gille Bissot from INSAS University in Belgium, alongside directors, Frederic Noirhomme and Jean-Rene Lorand. www.lebanesefilmacademy.com

eat. drink, dance

Zuma

When: Daily Where: DIFC, Dubai What: Located in the Dubai International Financial Centre just beside the Emirates Towers, Zuma is one of the best, most authentic modern Japanese restaurants in the Gulf. Using as its basis the restaurant/bar atmosphere and communal dining experience of the classic Japanese “izakaya” concept, Zuma is all about sharing the delicious items from the eclectic menu with fellow diners in either the spacious main sitting area, or within the Wabi and Sabi private dining area, which can seat 20 people. If you’re not in the mood for food, just sidle up to Zuma’s signature sake bar, which not only boasts an extensive collection of Japan’s most famous drink, but also a wide array of health boosting cleansers and delicious mocktails. Taking your drinks to Zuma’s premium lounge to enjoy a slightly more intimate affair with that special someone, or a group of friends is a great way to spend an evening of class. www.zumarestaurant.com

Mövenpick Iftar

When: Throughout Ramadan Where: Mövenpick Hotels, UAE What: If you happen to be in the UAE this Ramadan, two of the best places to check out for your Iftar meal are at the Mövenpick’s Fountain and Chutneys restaurants. It’s as authentic a dining experience as you can get in the modern Gulf, with that added dash of international spice to keep things interesting. For the respectable price of AED 110, you can sample the offerings by Chef Manar at Fountain or for AED 85, the North Indian dishes prepared specially by Chef Hafeez Qureshi at Chutneys. Here’s a hot tip: if you “Like” Mövenpick on Facebook, they’ll hook you up with a 20% discount on the Iftar for a maximum booking of eight people, so give them the thumbs up, grab a few friends and head over to feast on good eats! If a bit more privacy is what you’re after, the Mövenpick is also offering up its Oud Metha Ballroom as an When: Throughout Ramadan impressive space to host your own Ramadan celebrations for yourself Where: Four Seasons, Doha and up to 350 of your guests. There’s no better place in the UAE What: Doha’s Four Seasons will once again be shining its beacon to get a great taste of truly Ramadan moments than Mövenpick. this Ramadan with what it calls “a brigade of international chefs,” not to www.moevenpick-hotels.com mention a platoon of traditional elements that will make this holy month something truly special for everyone. The hotel’s Arabica Terrace Tent goes from classy to class-ic, as it is transformed into a festive, family-friendly fiesta! After Iftar at dusk, take a break in the Seasons Tea Lounge and then come back to be filled with the sounds, sights, smells and tastes of Ramadan. As shishas and ouds respectively pipe scent and song into the Arabica Terrace Tent, the Il Teatro Team throws open its doors for a slightly different suhour experience. From 7:00 p.m. onwards, the Four Season’s signature Italian restaurant temporarily transforms your night into an Italian-inspired celebration, while the outdoor Pool Grill serves up cold drinks and lighter dishes. Sohour (buffet) Sat-Wed: 9:00 pm to 12:00 midnight / Thurs-Fri: 9:00 pm – 01:00 am - QAR 285 (inclusive of beverages). www.fourseasons.com

Four Seasons Suhour

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global gatherings

irb rugby World Cup

WHEN: September 9th - October 23rd WHERE: New Zealand WHAT: 2011 will prove to be another bumper year for sports fans as the seventh IRB Rugby World Cup kicks off in New Zealand in September. The world’s top twenty teams will battle it out for the glory of lifting the coveted Webb-Ellis Cup and the bragging rights that come for the next four years by being the best team in the world. New Zealand’s All Blacks will, as always, start as favourites, especially with the competition being in their own back yard. They will be under huge pressure to finally capture the trophy that has so cruelly eluded them since 1987 when they became the first team to claim it. However, standing in their way will be their bogey team, France, while current holders, South Africa will have to get past the mighty Welsh in their opening game before they can mount the defence of their crown. The competition promises a month-long jamboree of bone-crunching tackles and sidestepping, try-scoring stardust. It is the perfect way to finish a sweltering summer. www.rugbyworldcup.com

Frankfurt motor show

WHEN: September 15th - 25th WHERE: Frankfurt, Germany WHAT: The Frankfurt International Motor Show is the second biggest in the world and will be opening its doors in September for the 64th time, as the major players of automotive industry gather to unveil their latest automotive offerings. Alternating bi-annually with the Paris show, Frankfurt is a petrol head’s dream, as the latest models of every marque from Lamborghini to Lada are revealed. The former will definitely be one to look out for, as the Italian supercar marque will undoubtedly have a new special edition to show alongside its new V12 Aventador. Other highly anticipated exhibitors will be Aston Martin and Ferrari. Under the banner “future comes as WHEN: September 15th & 16th standard” there will also be a greater emphasis on greener motoring, WHERE: Globally as a range of environmentally friendly technologies of the future will WHAT: What happens when 80,000+ of the world’s elite gather in be on display. No doubt Volkswagen’s electric saloon that made its more than 80 destinations around the world? The Global Party, that’s debut in Qatar earlier this year will make an appearance, as will the what. Inspired by Phileas Fogg’s journey around the world in 80 days, they the Rolls Royce Electric Ghost which was unveiled in Geneva Global Party brings together only the most powerful, the most wealthy and recently made its first dynamic public appearance at the and the most elite people on the planet to enjoy one stunning night of Goodwood Festival of Speed. www.iaa.de/en entertainment in the name of several of the world’s biggest charities. The event supports the Ark Foundation, the Raisa Gorbachev Foundation, 21st Century Leaders and TUSK among several others. However, there is only one catch: to get in you have to be invited. If you have a special silver Key2Luxury key ring, given as corporate gifts to only the most elite people on the planet, you are in; however, if you don’t, you’re not. All is not lost, though, as charity tickets can be bought for a cool $4,800, for which you will receive two key rings and access to the party of the century. It is also worth noting that, even after the party, the key ring will open up many doors and offer many privileges when it is discreetly produced at top restaurants, hotels and other lifestyle or retail venues. www.theglobalparty.com www.key2luxury.com

the global Party

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the scene

1. Hashem Salem, David Crickmore and Khaled Juman

2. The focus of the evening was on Amouage’s fabulous new scent 3. Elizabeth Winston-Dew with Amouage Creative Director, Christopher Chong 4. Wafa Alobaidat with designer friend 5. Kevin Hackett and Sarah Jane Charles with Sur la Terre’s James McCarthy 6. Sara and Noura Bouzo 7. Attendees sample Honour on origami butterflies 8. Members of the GCC press sampling Honour for men and women 9. The Armani Hotel was the perfect venue to launch Honour

Amouage Honour Launch, Dubai Oman-based perfumer, The House of Amouage chose the uber-trendy Armani Hotel in Dubai to launch its latest fragrance, Honour, for men and women. Joining the regional press corps were the company’s top brass, as well as a host of local VIPs. CEO, Divid Crickmore and Creative Director, Christopher Chong addressed the throng before the festivities got underway with a short promotional film and a fantastic band that mixed up contemporary renderings of Puccini’s Madame Butterfly and tracks from Adele’s smash hit album, 21.

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the scene

1. Sisters Bibi and Dalal Al Ghanim 2. Zainab Abdulaziz and Sarah Al Mukaimy

3. Always cheerful, Rosita Missoni meets with Guests 4. (L-R) Abdul Mutalib Marafie, Hussain Daishi, Abdul Ellah Marafie, Etedal Al Aayar, Dana Al Hilal and yasmine Marafie 5. Fahad Al Mazrouq and Hind Al Wazzan 6. Guests relax and enjoy the evening at the Pool Terrace 7. (L-R) Elena Olaypena, Leticia Sevilla, Mark Flaherty, Rob Crossan and Katherine Ellis 8. Juliet Dunne and Sandra Lane 9. Sarah Saade 10. (L-R) Lara Ritter, Eda Pallaud, Zainab Marafie, Zainab Al Mehama, Rasha Marafie, Shoq Murad

Hotel Missoni Grand Opening, Kuwait It seems these days that every fashion designer wants his or her own hotel. Very few, however, do it with the style of Missoni. In June, the Italian fashion house opened its second Missoni Hotel and its first in the Middle East. Kuwait played host to Rosita Missoni, Creative Director of the fashion house and Kurt Ritter, President and CEO of Rezidor Hotel Group, as they celebrated the opening of the hotel in style with VIPs and the hotel’s inaugural guests. Fine food and wonderful music were the order of the evening as guests enjoyed the spectacular hospitality of a hotel that is sure to become the beacon for five-star hospitality in the emirate.

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the scene

1. Chairman of The Guards’ Polo Club, Colonel Paul Belcher 2. Nayla Lahoud, BMG Foundation 3. HRH Prince Turki Al Saud chats to Mr Basil Al Ghalayini and Colonel Paul Belcher 4. Tala Samman

5. Prince Marcello and Princess Nina of Seborga 6. Bright colours were the wardrobe order of the day 7. The King Abdullah Cup went to the winning Guards Team 8. HRH Prince Philip chats to some Eton pupils 9. Horses and high stakes 10. Vicomte A’s Marcy de Soultrait with Sur la Terre’s Sophie Jones-Cooper 11. HRH Queen Elizabeth looks on with interest 12. HRH Prince Turki Bin Abdullah Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud of Saudi Arabia Photography: Lottie Ettling

BMG King Abdullah Polo Cup, Windsor Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, members of several Middle Eastern royal families, international dignitaries, prominent personalities and, of course, Sur la Terre, gathered to watch the 15th Annual GCC Polo Cup at the Guards Polo Club in Windsor. Recently renamed the King Abdullah Cup in honour of HRH King Abdullah bin Abdul-Aziz Al Saud, the competition is the flagship event of the BMG Foundation and was held this year under the banner of the foundation’s “Our Water, Our Life” initiative, which is pioneering awareness and addressing the global issue of water preservation.

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the scene

1. The Gucci Artisans 2. The Craftsmen (and woman) showing off their skills 3. One happy customer pays for her limited edition Gucci bag 4. One of the limited “Qatar Edition” bags made on the night 5. Guests enjoying the event at the Villaggio Gucci store

Gucci Artisan Corner, Doha To celebrate its 90th anniversary, Gucci recently held a very special, very private cocktail party at its boutique in Villaggio Mall, Doha. Dubbed “the Artisan Corner,” this event brought the finest of Gucci’s Florentine leather goods craftsmen to Doha to allow attendees a unique glimpse into their time-honoured and tailor-made world as they created and personalised a number of bags with special plaques.

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the scene

1. Mercedes chose Beirut’s famous Sky Bar to launch its new cars

2. Sara Hmaydeh 3. Tony Sidgwick and Sur la Terre’s Steve Paugh 4. Sara Al Hares 5. Pablo and Zeina Nassif 6. Zeina Nassif and Nancy Hawat 7. Neven El Shater 8. The SLK was unveiled to the night time backdrop of Beirut’s corniche 9. Leigh Cleaver and Marina Litvinova 10.Fadi El Aswad and Ramzy Nakad

Mercedes Launch, Beirut To launch its new C-Class and SLK models in the region, Mercedes lit up the Lebanese night sky with a spectacular party at the Sky Bar in Beirut. SLT went along to get into the party spirit and catch a first glimpse at the German car maker’s latest offerings as they were unveiled against the stunning backdrop of Beirut’s corniche at the famous rooftop venue.

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globe trotter

The Gray Where: Milan, Italy GPS: 45° 27’ 56.24” N, 9° 11’ 29.00” E

H te o l

As you approach The Gray, you would not be alone in thinking how nondescript it looks; just another door breaking up the typically elaborate Milanese art-deco walls of a city side street. However, the magical transformation that takes place the minute you cross the threshold will leave you stunned. The Gray is one of Milan’s best kept secrets and one among many fantastic designer/boutique hotels that dot Europe. The minimalist modern-zen lobby sets the tone for the rooms, of which there are only 21, making this a pretty exclusive little bolt hole. If you can, opt for the “Gray 3” room with the large, round hydrotub - equipped with a

TV and music system - to add that little bit of extra spice to your stay. Each room offers optimum chic, from electronically operated blinds and drapes, which are controlled by free-standing brushed steel columns, to cool under-surface lighting and the finest fixtures

and fittings available. In the heart of Milan’s main shopping district and right next to the city’s imposing Gothic cathedral, most rooms offer wonderful vistas of the famous Vittorio Emanuele Gallery arcade. www.sinahotels.com

Cad & The Dandy

in pp o

Savile Row in London always was the best place to buy a bespoke suit. However, for the uninitiated, the likes of Gieves & Hawkes, with its imposing tradition and royal warrants can be somewhat intimidating. Fortunately, for those of you looking for some bespoke gentleman’s tailoring, but without the haughty colonial-era stuffiness and snobbery, the quirkily-monikered Cad & The Dandy is at hand. Founded at the height of the financial crisis by two City of London bankers, James Sleater and Ian Meiers, after they were made redundant, Cad & The Dandy stamped its mark by manufacturing bespoke suits from quality Italian and English fabrics using traditional tailoring methods, but for considerably less

Where: London, UK GPS: 51° 30’ 46.86” N, 0° 05’ 09.16” W

than its Savile Row Counterparts. It became a beacon of City fashion for the austere times. Since then, Cad & The Dandy has become the last word in contemporary tailoring, bringing a fresh flair to the City’s sartorial landscape with

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an often unique take on classic suit styles and shirt designs - even to the point of stitching a client’s favourite football shirt into the lining of his jacket! www.cadandthedandy.co.uk

At:moshphere Where: Dubai, UAE GPS: 25° 11’ 49.96” N, 55° 16’ 26.78” E

N ig h tl if e

There have probably been many evenings where, after a fine meal and a cocktail or two, you have thought to yourself, “I’m on top of the world.” However, until you have been wined and dined at At:mosphere, situated on the 122nd floor of the Burj Khalifa (a staggering 422m in the sky), with the glistening emirate laid out before you like a carpet of twinkling lights, that statement cannot have any literal meaning. If the speed of the elevator ride doesn’t impress you, the wonderful ambience, beautiful decor and breathtaking views will. When you are this high up, everything must have a sense of theatre, so enjoy a night time rendezvous over a meal at the fine dining

restaurant or liquid refreshment in the cigar lounge/piano bar as you drink in the stunning vista from your window seat. www.atmosphereburjkhalifa.com

The English Tea Room at Brown’s Hotel

Where: London, UK

st au

GPS: 51° 30’ 33.50” N, 0° 08’ 31.82” W

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When you are in London, nothing refreshes you more after a busy day of buying up large swathes of Knightsbridge than a spot of “tiffin.” Who can resist a scone slathered in cream and strawberry jam, all washed down with the quintessential British “cuppa.” Well if that is indeed your thing, then you might as well do it in style. That means Mayfair. In the heart of this opulent neighbourhood is Brown’s Hotel, which conveniently serves one of the most famous afternoon teas in London. Voted “Top London Afternoon Tea 2009” by The Tea Guild, this awardwinning Traditional Afternoon Tea consists of a choice of 17 teas, including Brown’s own blend, along with delicious finger sandwiches, an assortment of delicate pastries, fruit and plain scones with clotted cream and strawberry preserve, as well as freshly baked cakes from the trolley - all accompanied by a classically-trained pianist. The English Tea Room at Brown’s is open daily from 7am to 11pm and Tea is served between 3pm and 6pm Monday to Friday and between 1pm and 6pm on weekends. www.brownshotel.com

Chariot of Fibre >>> Here at Sur la Terre, we are always looking for ways to beat the interminable traffic problems of the Gulf region, especially as the baking summer heat excludes even the shortest walk to the nearest luxury boutique. Finally we think we have found the answer. Enter the Yikebike, the vehicle that would be created if a Segway mated with a Victorian-era Penny Farthing. Developed in New Zealand, the Yikebike is a foldable electric mini-bike that is capable of travelling six miles at 16mph on a single charge. The 10kg Carbon Fibre model folds down in under fifteen seconds and can easily be stowed and carried in a special shoulder bag and, at a mere US$3,500, is a snip compared to the valuable hours you normally waste sitting in traffic. If taking it outdoors in the searing summer sun is still not an option for you, its portability means that it is ideal for getting from one end of the mall to the other in a hurry! www.yikebike.com

You Are Gold! >>> For those with true sartorial flair, adding a bit of shimmer to an outfit comes naturally. Just ask Elton John. However, for the more reserved amongst us, rocking up to the W Hotel in a gold lamé suit would be considered just a little too much. That’s why Hugo Boss has created limited edition jeans, infused with gold trim, for those that want a more sophisticated luxe look than a showy one. Sold under the Boss Selection

label, the company’s upscale marque, the jeans are designed in a classic five-pocket silhouette and woven with gold plated fibres that are specially treated to retain their value no matter how many times they are washed. Limited to just 300 pairs worldwide, these stylish strides will cost you $895 through special order. www.hugoboss.com

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Crystalise Your Cut >>> It isn’t just the boys who like to shine on a night out in their gold-plated Hugo jeans; traditionally it has always been the girls who were better at putting the sparkle on their look. This takes on a more literal connotation than ever with the introduction of the Corioliss Linea Pro C2 Styling Iron. Adorned with over 2553 Swarovski crystals and is designed using pure titanium plates, which apparently means it generates the most negative ions and infra red heat... according to the company’s hair-obsessed boffins, this means it is better at locking in the hair’s moisture than other irons, thereby doing less long-term damage to your locks. Therefore, we think it is well worth forking out the $600 for the C2, so you can even look stylish while you’re styling. www.corioliss.com

Look Sharp >>> If James Bond uses a wet razor, this is the one he owns: The Zafirro Iridium, the world’s first razor with solid white Sapphire blades. You read that right. Sapphires. Sharpened using high-energy, ionised particles to create an edge less than 100 atoms in width, that’s 5,000 times smaller than the width of a human hair! Not only will you be running atomically sharpened gemstones down your face, but while you are doing it you will be holding a handle made from iridium, one of the rarest and strongest metals in existence. Iridium, derived almost exclusively from meteorites, is ten times rarer than the platinum from which the razor’s custom-made hexagonal screws are hewn. Due the rarity of the metal and the complexities of the manufacturing process only 99 of these stunning razors will be created. Priced at $100,000 with a ten-year guarantee and sharpening service, think of the all shavings you’ll make. www.zafirro.com

• sur la terre • for your eyes only •

Finger-Linkin’ good >>> Expressing one’s individuality can be difficult in the Gulf, where many of your peers have the same kind of buying power as you. However, thanks to jewellery designer, James de Givenchy and his New York-based company Taffin, you can now truly express your one-off individuality through your solid 18-carat gold cufflinks. Selling for $4,500, de Givenchy will take an impression of your fingerprints, or those of a loved one, in wax and cast them into solid gold links that will be totally unique to the wearer. Equally, de Givenchy says that as they age they become more and more elegant, as the gold acquires a patina and the grooves of the print seemingly deepen, making these the ultimate statement in subtle, elegant and sentimental sartorialism. www.taffin.com

The Taste of Luxury >>> This region has long been able to turn oil into gold, but what about putting gold in oil. Olive oil, that is. Yes folks, for that true taste of decadence, toss your salad in this little concoction from Croatia. Made from the purest olives from the groves on the Hvar Island in the Adriatic Sea, this 0.2 litre bottle contains extra virgin olive oil with edible 24-carat gold flakes. The exquisite glass bottle comes packaged inside a crafted black lacquered wooden box that is protected by a small lock and comes enrobed in a velvet pouch. Because Golden Olive Oil is produced in a limited edition of 444 pieces and each bottle comes with certificate of ownership and authenticity, you won’t find this classy condiment on just any old table. It takes more than 120 hours to produce one finished product and at $850 a bottle, when people tell you money can’t buy taste... you can now tell them they are absolutely wrong. www.goldenoliveoil.com

• sur la terre • for your eyes only •

revue hotel

By Giorgio! 5 stars, because its cooler than an Armani suit with ice cream in the pockets and, unlike many Gulf hotels, it’s more chic than shocker.

James McCarthy slips into something stylish as he tries on the Armani Hotel for comfort.

•• sur sur lala terre terre •• section revue ••

>>> When talking about the Armani Hotel in Dubai it is easy to get carried away on a wave of hyperbole. Especially considering the fact that it was predominantly designed by Giorgio Armani, himself. This is the man who single-handedly rescued 1980s fashion with his yuppy-chic clothing and pays David Beckham to wear his underpants. Therefore, the sheer “coolness” of this hotel cannot be understated, even if its colours and the decor are. From the moment you step out of the black Mercedes limousine and through the front doors of the hotel, you will be taken aback. Not, as is the case in many regional hotels, by the overzealous use of mirrored panelling, brightly coloured carpet and gold leaf that comes by the barrel, but by its cool, muted Italian chic. Not for Giorgio are the ornate, throne-like wooden chairs and glasstopped, French-polished faux antique tables that usually populate hotel lobbies; equally, he deftly avoids the use of the ubiquitous Trevi Fountain-sized internal water feature as well as ostentatious chandeliers that could eclipse a north Atlantic iceberg. Only the subtle, clean lines of Armani Casa furniture inhabit the minimalist main reception area, a theme that, as I was to discover, runs throughout the entire property. The hotel itself actually occupies the first eight floors of the Burj Khalifa, as well as floors 38 and 39. Upon walking in, I was immediately approached by an immaculately turned-out, Armani suit-wearing concierge, who directed me to the ground floor Armani lounge, where I was to wait with a welcome drink for my personally-appointed “Lifestyle Manager,” Mohammad, who is there to cater to the guest’s every whim, to come and check me in.

Mohammad duly turned up and escorted me to my room, one of the 54 sophisticated “Classic” rooms, each of which opens up to greet guests with contoured, dark wood-panelled walls that can slide away to reveal the entertainment system, mini-bar and wardrobe, respectively. The beautiful minimalist furniture, all in black wood, polished chrome or geometrically-shaped black laquered plastic puts you straight into Gordon Gekko’s über slick Wall Street apartment. Even though I was only on the sixth floor, my room offered stunning aerial vistas of the spectacular Dubai Fountain. In the gorgeous bathroom, with its deep tub and refreshing rain shower, all complimentary toiletries are taken from the Armani Privé range, to add that luxurious touch to your personal pampering regimen. Apart from the huge marshmallow bed, with its soft Egyptian cotton sheets, it was a toss-up between the fully-equipped fold-open writing bureau or the remote control as to which was the coolest thing in the room. Overall, I think the winner was the remote control, that allows guests to control the drapes, the lighting, the iPod dock and the TV/ DVD player. You can even set the “do not disturb” indicator with it but, best of all, with the press of a button you can summon your Lifestyle Manager, and open the door to let him in without leaving the comfort of the bed. Once I had grown tired of playing with the remote, and been suitably admonished by Mohammad after the fifth time I had called him to my room, I decided to check out the Armani Spa. The Spa offers a full menu, ranging from a simple massage to facial lymphatic drainage treatments. Still weary from my arduous journey from Qatar, I opted for an Energising Travel Recovery massage.

• sur la terre • revue •

The following morning, the spa manager sat with me for ten minutes in order to completely customise my experience, enabling me to highlight areas that needed extra work, or limbs that required a gentler touch. I was then whisked off to the treatment area, where I was given a full tour of the facility. As well as the standard fare (full gym, relaxation room, pool etc.), the Armani Spa Terme offers a cascade of sequential thermal bathing experiences, each more refreshing than the last. Starting with the Sauna, you then jump to the Steam Vapore before entering the Acqua room for a warm freshwater shower that finishes with a “cool mist” walkway. The Terme experience can be undertaken alone or as part of a 30-minute programme where you will be guided through the sequence and various herbal infusions will be added to the three treatments in order to enhance their benefit. Kneaded and broiled to a relaxed perfection, a spot of lunch was required before heading to the Dubai Mall which, by the time you read this, will be serviced by air-conditioned Armani-branded golf carts that will ferry guests from door-to-door. The Armani Hotel offers no less than six restaurants, all of which have been favourably reviewed and critically acclaimed to varying degrees, including Peck, in collaboration with Milan’s 125 yearold Peck Deli, offering gourmet food on the go; Ristorante, an epicurian masterpiece of Italian fine dining; Amal, delivering a fresh an innovative approach to Indian cuisine; Hashi, with modern twists on traditional Japanese fare and Oasi, a light-bite lounge experience for casual dining and socialising.

I, however, booked into Mediterraneo, a lunchtime buffet of classic Mediterranean dishes served up with a local flavour. I worked my way through a fine selection of fresh fish on ice, from New Zealand mussels and John Dory to sushi and sashimi, a paella that took me back to a Spanish seaside taverna with its heady mix of plump shrimp, perfect calamari and succulent mussels, before eschewing the lighter, creamy desserts such as pannacotta and tiramisu for the more robust straightfrom-the-oven chocolate fondant. All of this was devoured to the audio visual accompaniment of the Dubai Fountain, which performed its aqueous acrobatics to Andrea Bocelli’s Con te Partirò. Satiated and with a slaked thirst, it was nearly, as that beautifully haunting song says, “Time To Say Goodbye” to the Armani Hotel, but not before using my Sur la Terrean status to bypass the toughest velvet rope in the emirate, that of the city’s top nightspot: The Armani Privé Lounge. Walking into Privé is like climbing into the pocket of one of Giorgio’s more extravagant suits. You feel the designer’s presence seeping out of every pore of the place. I am pretty sure the blueprint for the club was taken straight out of 1980s Manhattan, at the height of the Wall Street boom years. In fact, while queuing at the bar, you would not look out of place with a brick-sized mobile phone and a filofax laying on the black laquered surface in front of you. As the resident DJ pumped out a mood enhancing mix of house music and Arabesque dance tunes to an appreciative crowd, I reflected on how, while giving off that opulent 80s vibe, it is in no way tacky. Instead, it is done with such panache and style, just like the hotel above it, that it is easy to see how Giorgio Armani changed the face of an entire decade of fashion faux pas because, 25 years on, he is doing exactly the same thing for five-star hotels in the Gulf.

• sur la terre • revue •

revue spa

Hurry up & re l a x 4.5 stars because it’s a customised spa experience that’s out of this world. With summer already in full swing, the time to de-stress and get beach-beautiful is closer than ever. Megan Masterson investigates the peak of peacefulness and the acme of athleticism that is Spa Chakra; a haven of health and wellness that will have you feeling (almost literally) on top of the world... >>> There is no denying that Doha is a hustle-and-bustle city, crammed with urgent deadlines, incessant traffic and the exhausting demands of modern living. Thankfully, it’s also home to Spa Chakra. “Is this what I’ve been missing?” I ask myself as I step out onto the 39th floor of Alfardan Towers. With its incredible wraparound views and exuding a luxurious hush that the world’s best spas seem to specialise in, Spa Chakra is an oasis of calm and privacy. High above the city, Spa Chakra is another world. Unsurprisingly, it has been named the “Reader’s Choice for Favourite Spa” in the Middle East, as awarded by Spa Finder. The approach of the team is one of customisation and of creating an experience that is about total relaxation.

So whether you’re looking to lose a few pounds, spend an afternoon enjoying massages and pedicures with your best girlfriends, or just want to spend some quiet time in a hair salon, Spa Chakra is ready to welcome you. As one of the few remaining salons in Doha to offer ladies’ hours, the women’s salon is extremely private, offering an all-female staff and the first in the Middle East to use Guerlain Paris products. Therapy staff are trained regularly, both at Guerlain in Paris and locally by visiting Parisian therapists. Guerlain’s Orchidee Imperiale treatment has proven ideal for the harsh Qatar climate, and Spa Chakra offers a two-week programme that hydrates and rejuvenates skin.

• sur la terre • revue •

Meanwhile, the steam room – bathed in chakra colours – is where Those struggling with extra weight around the midriff can try to head for the Herbal Steam, the ultimate way to unwind before a vacutraining, a treatment that promises to give clientele a flatter stomach within 12 sessions. treatment. For those desperate for a lunchtime escape that will The therapy utilises a quieten the chaos of the workday, combination of vacuum therapy the Hydro Room is a marvellous in the form of a pressure suit that little haven. Relax in a centre-set 1. Complete customisation. Mums can drop their children targets weight loss from the waist bath while water jets go to work at the second floor play area and steal some time for a hair and hips. Spa Chakra claims that on those tight knots accumulated appointment. Couples celebrating anniversaries can book in for many a satisfied customer has from hours at a desk, all while special treatments followed by a light lunch. Groups of friends successfully sucked away both enjoying the floor-to-ceiling view can enjoy massages and mani-pedis together, before taking a the inches and the kilos. A fully over the ocean. dip in the Spa’s eternity pool. equipped health club, split into 2. The 39th floor eternity swimming pool, with its bird’s-eye view two separate rooms for weight However, the Spa’s most popular over Doha, is available to anyone booked in for a treatment. training and cardio exercise, service – and one that I’m booking 3. The new weight-loss packages, including specialist nutritionist has a “guaranteed-to-work” for myself – is the Vichy shower, a and Perfect Figure slimming machines. Powerplate, similar to those used fantastically futuristic room where 4. The privacy of ladies’ hours. in the fitness regimes of gymclients are rubbed down with 5. The Vichy shower, a perfect early birthday present to myself. addicted celebs like Madonna. exfoliating scrubs as Vichy water is sprayed onto them from jets suspended from the ceiling. The skin is then hydrated with rich creams The Powerplate’s vibrating base, which helps strengthen core muscles, is said to be one of the most reliable methods of weight loss. The spa’s and gels, leaving you with super-smooth skin. personal trainers will help you perform specialised exercises on the Spa Chakra now also offers a specialised nutritionist for consultations Powerplate, tailored to your problem areas and ability level. regarding weight-loss and has been overwhelmed by the popularity of its new Perfect Figure body-shaping equipment. The Hypoxi L250 is a Spa Chakra is dedicated to offering an experience and an environment proven figure-sculpting machine that is especially suited to targeting that offers nothing less than an absolute escape from daily life. The pear-shaped figures, rewarding clientele with visible fat loss from the emphasis is on total relaxation in a soothing environment; one that is perched high above the skyscrapers of Doha. hips, thighs and buttocks.

Our top 5 reasons for choosing Spa Chakra:

• sur la terre • revue •

e n ti al fi d

sty

le con

the SuIt StRIKES BACK Making a sure fire comeback this season, the suit and all its trimmings are a style essential for every gent’s wardrobe. Sur La Terre speaks to James Sleater, one half of contemporary Savile Row tailors Cad & the Dandy, to get the sartorial low down on all things bespoke when it comes to savvy suit dressing… >>> “The name Cad & The Dandy comes from the fact that we wanted to make a concerted effort to demystify tailoring and also have a name that would make us stand out from the crowd,” explains James Sleater, a former London city banker who left behind the stocks and shares for a needle and thread; and stand out they do. With a unique “Do-it yourself” style website where you can choose everything from your pocket angle to the number of buttons on your cuffs before you even stepping onto the measuring floor, Cad & The Dandy are not your usual stuffy Savile Row tailor. And not only do these gents offer bespoke tailoring for suits, shirts and overcoats, they have also joined forces with some big names for unique collections for the dapper dresser. “We have collaborated with a few high profile people to bring something different to our customers, including Chris Eubank,” explains James. “We are currently working with Ben Westwood (designer Vivienne Westwood’s son) on a collection which is a happy blend of country and city clothing. The overcoats made from waxed cotton are bang on trend and in huge demand,” he adds. But if you are after the truly bespoke, where do you start in a world full of choices? James gives us his expert advice on how to get the perfect style for you...

ARE YOu A CAd OR A dAndY??? > THE CAD <

> THE DANDY <

dEFINITION: “Someone who doesn’t take himself too seriously, yet likes the finer things in life. Someone who is fun to be around.”

dEFINITION: “Someone who is well dressed and portrays himself well. Someone who wants to stand out from the crowd.”

whAT SUIT? “The Cad should opt for a slightly lighter shade of blue when it comes to a suit. It is ideal for summer simply as a suit, or just wear the jacket with a pair of jeans for a more casual look.”

whAT SUIT? “For the Dandy, something a little more flamboyant in terms of the cloth works well for the suit, or perhaps a bright hidden lining.”

• sur la terre • style confidential •

What to choose for autumn Don’t just follow Broadwalk Empire’s Nucky Thompson or Madmen’s Don Draper. Be ahead of the style curve by following these tips and choices for autumn suit dressing.

Go for: 1. A higher waisted trouser. 2. Flat fronted trousers. 3. Jackets with a more structured look. 4. More traditional, plain weaves of cloth. 5. Move away from skinny lapels and go back to a more traditional look.

The sartorial dos and don’ts Take it from James; these are important points not to be missed…

Concerned about having the time to get a Savile Row suit stitched up? Cad & The Dandy offer a delivery service and can produce suits to tight time frames. They can also travel worldwide to meet with clients upon their request.

• Never do the bottom button up on a jacket. The same applies to waistcoats.

After something a little

• In the UK, wearing a belt with a suit is not really the done thing.

“At Cad & The Dandy we can put the customer’s DNA print on the inside of the suit to make it the most unique suit possible,” explains James. “These DNA linings are a result of our collaboration with DNA Art UK. We profile our customers DNA and print the unique results on lining fabric and put this inside the suit. It has proved hugely popular for a variety of reasons, for its uniqueness, for weddings and also just for a bit of fun.” For more information visit www.cadandthedandy.co.uk

• Avoid matching the colour of your pocket square and tie. • Match your socks to your suit and not your shoes.

more personal?

Top tips >>> for the choosing the ultimate bespoke business suit for the Middle East…

FABRIC Go for lightweight cloths especially mohair and finer wools. LINING Cupro or ermazines are best to keep cool but C&D can half or quaterline jackets to give more comfort in warmer climates. JACKET One-button jackets are hugely popular, with slanted pockets. It’s a modern elegant look. TROUSERS Choose buckle adjusters rather than belts, no back pockets and flat fronts with a nice slim leg.

• sur la terre • style confidential •

Dress Down For

Autumn

Off the block

Unlike the ladies, gents don’t always want to look like a catwalk replica, instead they find a look that suits them but with a distinct nod to what’s hot on the style scene. Sur La Terre goes in search of some of summer and autumn’s most lust-worthy pieces to add to your wardrobe. • A Farrell flat cap No, not a music collaboration with an American rapper, but a fashion label from the very British Mr. Robbie Williams. Yes, after making some serious progress with the boys from Take That, the pop sensation has now turned his hand to fashion design with a label inspired by his “Jack the lad” grandfather, Jack Farrell. This is British fashion inspired by the working class, but perfect for anyone at any time and “balancing past influence with modern male style,” explains Robbie. Available exclusively from House of Fraser and Very.co.uk from September. • Jimmy Choos for you By now, if you haven’t clicked on MrPorter.com then you are missing a fashion trick or two. Set up as the little brother to the women’s Net-A-Porter, Mr Porter is style central for men, offering expertly selected clothes and accessories, as well as trend tips and style advice. From July onwards, you can be the envy of your lady with your very own pair of Jimmy Choos. Yes, Jimmy Choo’s debut collection for men is launching and they are available at Mr Porter. We love these brown suede Oxford brogues, grey flannel trainers and monk-strap black boots.

• Swimmers from TOPMAN’S The Swimwear Project When it comes to swim shorts, we cannot deny the allure of the rather flamboyant style of Villebrequin or Orlebar Brown’s über stylish swimmers, but why not splash out in something a little different this summer. British high street giants TOPMAN have teamed up with top designers including Jonathan Saunders, Todd Selby and East London brand, Cassette Playa, to bring The Swimwear Project with some seriously cool designs.

• sur la terre • style confidential •

• The Gucci snaffle loafer You can’t put a foot wrong in a classic loafer and, to celebrate their 90th anniversary, Gucci have revamped the classic snaffle loafer as part of the 1921 collection. Available in three tones.

When it comes to the more casual side of style this autumn, choose between two of the top trends to emerge from the catwalks… Go back to your university days of good boy dapper dressing. Layer patterned sweaters with blazers and dropped crotch or colourful pants, statement brogues and a mismatching scarf.

PREPPY MILITARY Tough luxe is sticking around for autumn, so don’t ditch last season’s heavy leather military boots. Be sure to invest in a rugged camouflage or structured aviator jacket and a heavy snood style scarf.

Style gives back…

Fashion can be quite a self-obsessive sport, so why not give something back with your purchases. Choose your charity and get shopping…

Save Japan Project

Help raise funds for the devastating earthquake in Japan by clicking onto the Uniqlo website and buying one of their celebrity designed message t-shirts. Karl Lagerfeld, Orlando Bloom, Lady Gaga and Victoria Beckham are just some of the big names that have teamed up with Vogue Japan, GQ Japan and Uniqlo to help the victims of this tragedy. www.savejapanproject.com and www.uniqlo.com.uk

Project Dirt

In an effort to help with the world’s super-sized carbon footprint, Timberland are collaborating with Project Dirt by selling an eco-friendly Earthkeeprs boat shoe made from leather from a responsible tannery with organic cotton laces and recycled rubber soles. Their aim is to donate thousands of pounds to with their Earthkeepers Grant to plant conservation projects in the UK. http://earthkeepers.timberland.com and www.projectdirt.com

Project Ocean

The original inventor of slogan tees over twenty years ago, Katherine Hamnett has joined eco forces with Selfridges as part of their “Project Ocean”, which highlights the serious issue of over fishing in our world’s seas. With a range of tees and bags with slogans such as “No more fish in the sea?” and “Save the Sea”, this has to be a sure fire way to wear your heart on your sleeve and get the message across. www.selfridges.com

• sur la terre • style confidential •

In focus

the Fast Way to

Ramadan

Health

>>> Ramadan is a time for introspection, the strengthening of one’s faith and, of course, fasting. While this is ultimately a spiritual aspect of the Holy Month, there are many health-benefits to be drawn from our Ramadan abstinence.

As the Holy Month of Ramadan approaches, Bahrain-based Nutritional Therapist, author and consultant speaker, Alia Almoayed, serves up a healthy dose of advice for tackling the after-dark feasting that follows the Sunset Prayer.

Besides religious reasons, and if done correctly, fasting can boost immunity, help digestion and add years to our lives by eliminating waste, boosting the immune system and enabling the body to flush out toxins more efficiently. However, fasting is a very extreme method of detoxification and it is important that your body be prepared properly to eliminate the toxins effectively. During fasting, the body releases toxins from fat stores into the bloodstream; but, if the body doesn’t have enough antioxidants and enzymes to help flush them out, then the toxins can become more dangerous because they circulate in the bloodstream, affecting different organs and causing many side-effects from headaches to skin rashes. To avoid this, it is very important that your diet is full of nutritious foods such as fruits, vegetables and their juices. Also important for the detoxification process are green leafy salads, fibre from wholegrains and water. Supplement this with a quality multivitamin/mineral to provide general support and a daily dose of 500-1000mg of Vitamin C. Ideally, this diet should be started a few days before Ramadan and then carried out during the rest of the month, after Iftar. Your lifestyle during Ramadan should also aid the body in its elimination processes. In addition to taking frequent naps and light exercise, it is important to steer away from environmental toxins such as smoking and pollution. These may burden the body further and slow down any benefits of your detoxification.

• sur la terre • in focus •

There are several mistakes that people make when they fast, chief among which is overeating at Iftar, when breaking the fast. This often comes as a natural reaction to food deprivation. What often happens when we fast is that our metabolism slows down in an effort to conserve energy, which is our body’s natural survival mechanism. Our body doesn’t know that we are going to eat in a few hours, so it prepares for the worst: starvation. As a result, any food that enters the body after breaking the fast is more likely to be stored as fat for possible energy needs in the future, which may result in weight gain. Secondly, eating rich, fatty, sugary foods is a cultural habit that has shifted the focus of the month from “fasting” to “feasting”. For example, desserts play a very big role at Iftar, and they are often very rich in sugar and saturated fats. The combination of rich carbohydrate meals, fatty/sugary desserts, and the lack of fibre from salads and vegetables often adds to weight and fat stores and defies the whole purpose of detoxification. Also, because fasting can lead to low blood sugar, we often experience the symptoms of blood sugar imbalance, which include sweet cravings. This further contributes to weight gain when we give in to those cravings. That’s why balancing blood sugar is very important; it requires eating small, frequent meals after Iftar, avoiding sugary and refined foods, reducing stimulants (tea/ coffee), and adding protein to every meal and snack. By following a few simple rules and guidelines, I can guarantee you will enjoy the healthiest of Holy Months and will feel fitter, rather than fatter, by the time Eid rolls around.

healthy eating During iftar After a whole day of fasting, it is important to have a small meal, eat slowly and choose your foods carefully. • When it is time to break your fast, start by drinking a glass of pure room-temperature water. This aids in flushing out any toxins that have accumulated during the day. • Dates give a quick sugar rush to the body, which creates an energy boost and then a slump soon afterwards. To combat that, combine dates with raw nuts (like almonds or walnuts), which contain some protein and can slow the release of sugar into the blood. • Introduce solid foods gradually by limiting your portions. Eat foods at room temperature and resist the temptation to overeat. Eat slowly and chew thoroughly. • Always add protein with your carbohydrate-rich meal in order to avoid an energy slump after eating. For example, if you eat rice, combine it with chicken or lentils for a balanced meal. • Drink water or sugar-free fresh juices - which are diluted with 50% water - to minimise the effects of concentrated sugar entering the body. And try to drink either before or after the meal, not during. • Don’t forget to go easy on the sweets. Try to minimise or avoid your intake of fatty, sugary desserts and learn to enjoy the natural sweetness of fruits! Visit www.aliaalmoayed.com for more Ramadan health advice.

• sur la terre • in focus •

UP CLOSE & PERSONAL

ACCESSORiES

FEATURE

TRENDS CONFIDENTIAL

LOOK BOOK

TIll FEllRATH & sAm bARDAouIl

REORIENTING ART:

up close & personal passion

On the back of curating the successful inaugural exhibition at Doha’s new Modern Arab Art Museum, Mathaf, Sur la Terre sat down with Till Fellrath and Sam Bardaouil, the founders of Art Reoriented, an organisation passionate about re-orienting the external misconceptions of contemporary art from the Middle East.

• sur la terre • up close & personal •

Let’s first begin with your name. Why “Art Reoriented?” Why did you choose that name? What are you reorienting, and how are you doing it? In essence, what is your philosophy and how does your name exemplify that? Picasso once said: “There are painters who transform the sun to a yellow spot, but there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence, transform a yellow spot into the sun.” Art, curating and all forms of creativity are matters of perspective, of orientation, of discovering and exploring new ways of looking at things that, upon first glance, might seem mundane and familiar. “Reorienting” is our way of saying that there are infinite and unexpected ways through which one could articulate a specific topic or approach and present a particular work of art. Art Reoriented is a response to the percolating interest in the art and artists of the Arab world, the Middle East at large or the socalled “periphery.” First and foremost, we seek to highlight the formalistic innovations and contributions of the artists we work with by contextualising these artists in the current contemporary moment or within a revisionist re-writing of the canon of art history rather than the limiting rhetoric of geo-political associations and ethnic backgrounds. “Reorienting” requires the courage to take risks. Creativity entails problem solving. In our curatorial methodology, we constantly challenge ourselves to make unexpected choices. For instance, an archaic object juxtaposed with an edgy video installation adds a new layer of meaning to both. This can only be achieved by breaking the rules of historical classification. To sum it up, we do not want to simply say things. We want to question that which has been already said.

• sur la terre • up close & personal •

Understanding that each has a unique perspective into creating something like Art Reoriented, it still seems like an unlikely union between you both (Till’s politics and economics and Sam’s theatre and arts backgrounds) to get involved together. What led to that partnership? What makes our curatorial work different is exactly the fact that we come from such different backgrounds both culturally and professionally (Till is originally from Germany and Sam is originally from Lebanon). This difference allows us to approach our work from “within” and “without.” In our kind of work, it is imperative to have a genuine insider experience and knowledge of the culture, the language and the social fabric. But it is equally important not to be introverted and self-referential. Our diverse cultural backgrounds allow us to find that balance in perspective and not fall into the trap of either “exoticising” the other or “orientalising” one’s self. In addition to our cultural differences, there are our academic and professional disciplines that are different yet complimentary. When you look at an artwork from an art historical perspective, you see it extremely differently from when you explore it through the lens of socio-politics. So how did it all begin? It all started in 2008. Our first collaboration was on the exhibition ItaliaArabia. The show explored the convergences – it is important to stress the word CONVERGENCES and not Influences – between prominent Middle Eastern modernist masters such as Fateh AlMoudarress, Louay Kayyali, Aref Al-Rayess, Paul Guiragossian, Seif Wanly, Parviz Tanavoli and Faramarz Pilaram and their Italian counterparts such as Massimo Campigli, Renato Guttuso, Remo Bianco, Gulio Turcato and Gino Severni. The reactions the exhibition instigated from visitors as well as the critical response from the press was extremely encouraging. The experience of putting this exhibition together and then witnessing the ripples it sent across art audiences in New York was probably what made us both think, “wait a minute, there is something different and important going on here.” Instead of following the model of what is generally referred to as “the role of the arts in promoting cross-cultural dialogue” – a worn out approach that often ends up rigidifying people’s a-priori and false perceptions of the “other” – we went for a less apologetic, more assertive polemic that did not shy away from taking upon itself a very ambitious task: To challenge the canon of art history as far as the Middle East and its relationship to the West is concerned. Bang! We were actually “Reorienting” people’s associations and expectations, and most importantly their conclusions about the “orient” so to speak.

“Innovation” is a current buzzword, particularly in a place like Qatar. What are the boons of working within the Gulf and with artists from the Middle East? In your experience in curating exhibitions, are the artists hungrier to express themselves, or are they more discouraged with being recognized before you meet with them? In either case, how do you help them? Do you have any favourites? Innovation is a term that has come under so much scrutiny over the least decade. What it means to innovate today is a question that artists, curators, critics, academics and even the audience at large constantly ask. Some go as far as claiming that there is no more space for genuine innovation; that everything today is a reinvented version of something else which precedes it. Others maintain that despite the infinite amount of existing cultural production, there is always space for more, for the new, for the never-done-before. In our opinion, both arguments are too simplistic. We tend to view artworks as sites of navigation, similar to a website if you wish, where the traditional linear way of reading a text has been rendered archaic by the non-linear, non didactic manner through which one can browse the net. Therefore, we are not afraid to take the risks that many other curators might consider too unorthodox. Placing a 15th century Anatolian Iron War Mask right next to Picasso’s Guernica, for instance, forces us to look at both with more attentiveness, allowing us to dwell on their formalistic elements as well as their topical relevance with a different kind of insight and from a different position that otherwise would not have been conceivable if they were to be viewed in separation and within the art historical and presentational frameworks within which they are usually displayed. This kind of innovation knows no boundaries and is more intelligent than asking whether artists can present us with something new or not. Today, the cultural institutions that are being developed in the Gulf region have an important choice to make. On one hand, they can opt to copy the curatorial models, almost verbatim, from long standing institutions in other parts of the world. On the other hand, they can make use of the freedom that comes with establishing something from the ground up and embrace a more diverse approach to collecting, curating, educating and patronage at large. What is important to note here, is that many of the so called “canonical” museums and institutions of the West are themselves in the process of questioning the relevance of the models that they have followed for decades in an attempt to boost attendance and develop new audiences.

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Someone once said, “a picture speaks a thousand words.” Of all the pieces you have helped exhibit, do you think there is one that accurately sums up what Art Reoriented is? If a picture speaks a thousand words, imagine the thousands of sentences that an exhibition can. To ask a curator to single out one or two art works is like asking a parent to choose a favorite from several children. They are all special, but each for different reasons. At the end of the day, you have to be convinced that every artwork you have chosen to display constitutes a part of the narrative that you as a curator are putting forward through the bigger picture of an entire exhibition. There are instances where the hanging of two or more artworks next to each other or underneath a certain heading

allows the art works to take on an additional layer of meaning where the intention of the artist and the curator confound to expand the semantic of the work, allowing for a fresh or unexpected reading of the work. In one of our exhibitions for example, we placed a life size painting of a reclining young man right underneath an installation by another artist comprising of hundreds of images of women. This juxtaposition created a dramaturgy that transformed the artworks from mere aesthetic objects to characters engaged in a plot of sorts. The works were reoriented to tell a new story without losing the original purpose for which they were created.

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Let’s speak more generally about the Gulf as an artistic ground. Many people not familiar with the recent movements to get art recognised via larger institutions (like Mathaf, the Third Line, the Museum of Islamic Art, etc.) as well as some of our smaller art houses, would say that there is a dearth of art in our region. If that’s the general conception, then why are you working here? Is this simply a niche of unexplored territory, or is it truly a fertile field of potential artistic greatness? Your question brings us back to the whole notion of perceptions. More often than not, when we engage in discussions about the region, be it formally on a panel or at a conference, or informally in a passing conversation, we have realised that many people (not from the Middle East) tend to think of the region as one colour. The complex nuances and pronounced diversities within the region are completely beyond them. Everything from the region - artists and art included - is clustered under one label: the Middle East. For many, that means Arabs and, for many, that signifies Islam and often worse, militant radical Islam and terrorism. The misperception of the dearth of art in the Gulf, or the Middle East, is only a part of this overall image. We find ourselves having to peel through so many layers of misinformed historiography, misplaced geography – recently Fox News places Egypt on the map where Iraq is – and simplified ethnography – not all Middle Easterners are Arabs and not all Arabs are Muslims, etc. - before we get to the crux: art! When we do eventually get there, the task of educating becomes even more challenging. How do you explain, for instance, that Beirut and Cairo have had a long history of visual artistic production that continued beyond what is referred to as Islamic Art? How can you, in a few minutes of conversation, clarify that artists in the 1920s, or the 1950s, from these cities, and other places like Damascus and Baghdad, were aware of the European Avant–Garde and Western Modernism and were engaged with and contributing to it? Or, how do you correct the misconception that Islamic art is not completely opposed to figuration or that contemporary artists form the Middle East have indeed tapped beyond calligraphy, arabesque and images of veiled women? The list goes on… At Art Reoriented, we believe that the best way to attend to this lack of awareness is through intelligent and complex exhibitions that, while primarily focusing on the artistic contributions of artists from the region, can also play a role in fixing the common narrative and introducing our audiences to the complexity of the region. There is no doubt that the Gulf region has positioned itself as a significant player in the field of cultural patronage over the last decade. Many opportunities have been created for artists to do things that otherwise could not have been possible in their home countries. Have these initiatives been flawless? Absolutely not! Is there room for improvement? Definitely yes!

Finally, and in general, what is next for Art Reoriented? Where and when can we see you and your efforts next? Let us simply say that we are currently in discussions about two future exhibitions for 2012 and 2013. One will be in a major museum in Europe and the other one under the auspices of an important cultural platform in the Middle East. They will hopefully exemplify everything that we stand for and continue to build on what we have managed to achieve so far. All in good time!

All images © Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art 2010.

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accessories

Cocktail Hour

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Dress, Aragone Shoes, René Caovilla Clutch, Chanel

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Dress, Bottega Veneta Shoes, Jimmy Choo Clutch, Paola Graglia Watch, Patek Philippe

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Dress, Krizia Shoes, Mila Schon Clutch, Ernesto Esposito

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feature

A Gallant

Game

Sophie Jones-Cooper heads to the GCC Polo Cup in Windsor to find out how, thanks to an after-match encounter with British royalty, one Saudi investment banker has created a charity juggernaut and propelled the “Sport of Kings” into Middle Eastern equestrian culture. Photography: Lottie Ettling

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“Over the last decade, the BMG Foundation has raised funds for needy children in Saudi Arabia, Pakistan, Lebanon and the UK,” explains Ghalayini. “We have raised appreciation of both the sport and high art culture in the region; and we have brought the East closer to the West.” As for raising the profile of the sport, polo in the Gulf has developed at quite a pace since those early tentative steps according to Ghalayini. “Polo has grown remarkably in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. It is also played in Morocco and Jordan. In Saudi there is a club, but no official team as of yet.” >>> When Saudi national Basil Al Ghalayini struck up a conversation with HRH Charles, the Prince of Wales at a polo match in England sixteen years ago, the British royal was surprised to hear that Saudi Arabia, one of the world’s equestrian heartlands, did not have a polo federation or even a team. It was, as result of this chance meeting, that the annual GCC Polo Cup, and its charitable raison d’etre, the BMG Foundation, was born. Fifteen years on and the charitable initiative has not only bought the “Sport of Kings” to the Middle East, helped bridged cultural gaps between the East and West through sport and the arts but, perhaps most importantly, raised a vast amount of money for young children in need around the world. “I was speaking to Prince Charles after a polo match between the Army and Navy (he was Navy team captain) and we were discussing polo in the GCC region,” explains Ghalayini, Founder and Chairman of the BMG Foundation. “He asked me, why don’t you start something to do with polo in the region so the sport can become more known to Saudis and the Gulf? That is why we decided to call it the Gulf Co-operation Cup (GCC).” “After speaking to The Prince of Wales, I thought it was such a nice angle to start the foundation and raise money for needy children. For the first seven years, the GCC polo match was played between the Prince of Wales’ team and the GCC. We started with raising money for The Prince’s Trust, the Prince of Wales’ favourite charity,” explains Ghalayini, whose charity cup match is now played annually between the GCC team and the Guards’ Polo team in Windsor in the presence of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Every year, the flagship event brings together British and Arab royalty, as well as high profile business and social leaders from the East and West, to join forces in raising funds for those in need, as well as helping to strengthen cultural links between the Middle East and Great Britain.

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“It would be great to see more polo in Qatar as well. Qatar is working to be such an international hub at the moment and polo really attracts the jet-setters and VIPs. I would love to bring in some Qatari sponsors in the future and I hope we can reach out to them.” “For instance, Qatar Foundation, set up by Her Highness, Sheikha Mozah bint Nasser Al Thani, is massive and incredibly active. I would be keen to start a dialogue with them to see how we can co-operate. I believe we share a common vision.” Under Ghalayini’s vision, this year sees the event support the foundation’s latest initiative, the “Our Water, Our Life” campaign, addressing the pressing global issue of water conservation. The 15th annual GCC Cup, recently renamed the King Abdullah Cup in recognition of the achievements of King Abdullah bin Abdul-Aziz Al Saud, the ruler of Saudi Arabia, was held on June 15th 2011 in the presence of Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II and His Highness, Prince Turki Bin Abdullah Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud.

After a late arrival from Ascot, where her horse was running in the last race, The Queen and her husband, The Duke of Edinburgh, joined HH Prince Turki Bin Abdullah Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud to watch the much-anticipated match. “The GCC Cup is a great opportunity to bring together the who’s who of the Gulf and Europe and unite the two cultures,” says Ghalayini. Also in attendance were international royalty including Prince Marcello and Princess Nina of Seborga, as well as eminent Earth Institute scientist, Dr. Enrico Bonatti, and other international dignitaries, business leaders, foundation sponsors and VIPs. When one mingles in such circles, one has to look one’s best, and guests were decked out in all their finery, with umbrellas at the ready under the brooding skies of the Royal Borough. Luckily for the Choos and Louboutins, the British weather pretty much held out, and rain did not stop play. While Her Majesty dazzled in white with a blush pink hat, all eyes were firmly on the GCC team, who were sporting striking blue polo shirts designed by a key sponsor of the event, French fashion brand, Vicomte A. “We wanted to bring some colour to the polo shirts,” explained designer Marcy de Soultrait. “That is what makes Vicomte A different from the rest,” he noted. The day’s proceedings began with a lunch, speeches from Ghalayini and Chairman of the Guards’ Polo Club, Colonel Paul Belcher, as well as an introduction to the game of polo for the uninitiated. The VIP guests then took to the grandstand and welcomed the two teams to the pitch to the sounds of The Band of the Scots Guards playing both the Saudi and British national anthems. Ghalayini later confessed that to have the Saudi National Anthem played during the event “is very special to me.” From the first “chukka,” the match was played at a frenetic pace, with some seriously close action up to the last seconds. Although the GCC team piled on the pressure, it was the Guards’ team that walked away with the win with a final score of Guards five and a half, GCC five.

The Queen, accompanied by HH Prince Turki Bin Abdullah Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud, presented the cup to the winning team as well as a blanket to the GCC’s Habtoor Al Habtoor for his horse, which won the award for “Pony of the Match,” before the day drew to a close with that quintessentially British of pastimes: afternoon tea. “It is special for me to see British and Arab royalty together at such an event,” exclaimed Ghalayini. “As a Saudi national, I look to the UK as a strategic partner to Saudi, and to see this union gives me a sense of achievement in bridging the cultural divide.” However, the festivities served only as a sideshow to the real and less frivolous issue, and the main reason everybody was there: “Our Water, Our Life.” The scarcity of water is a very critical concern around the world and particularly in the Gulf region. “Every fifteen seconds a child dies of a water-related disease,” explained Ghalayini. “Fresh water is a depleting resource. You could say we will be running out of water before we will run out oil in a way. I believe wars will be fought over water and not politics in the next eight years.” As part of this water conservation initiative and to raise awareness, particularly amongst the younger generation, the BMG Foundation has launched a competition for university students aged 18-22-years old in the GCC countries to come up with the most innovative campaign. The winning campaign will be broadcast by Pan regional TV stations and will appear in the printed press from January 2012. It is a key part of the foundation’s initiative to encourage the younger generation to use their talent to educate households and future generations to change their habits when it comes to water consumption. BMG believes that this is a generation that can adapt to ways and techniques that promote more frugal usage of this valuable resource and pass this on to future generations.

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“It is hard to change the bad habits of adults. With the younger crowd we have a better chance of communicating our initiative and making them more sympathetic to the issue. We also have a big youth population in the region,” Ghalayini noted. With Saudi as the third biggest per capita consumers of water in the world, this is an issue that needs some serious attention in the region. “When we see the campaign, it will have a shocking impact to help change our bad habits,” Ghalayini said.

How to get involved… Sponsorship

If you are interested in becoming a member or sponsor of the BMG Foundation visit www.bmgfoundation.com. To find out more about the “Our Water, Our Life” initiative, visit www.ourwaterourlife.org.

Student competition

The competition to come up with the most innovative idea to promote water conservation is being held across universities in the GCC. The three finalists will be announced at the Saudi Water and Power Week on December 5th 2011. The winning campaign will be launched in January 2012 and will run for six months, culminating in a celebration at the 16th GCC Polo Cup next June (entrants must be aged between 18 and 22 years).

Music concert

BMG Foundation will also be staging a pop concert in the Gulf region (Dubai, Doha or Beirut TBC) in October/November with international bands performing as part of a show based around the concept of saving water. More information will become available at www.bmgfoundation.com

“In a wealthy country the usage of water is not always as relevant. Nobody says you cannot own a huge palace or mansion, ten cars and luxury items that consume a lot of water; but we need smart homes where that water can be reused for other consumptions. It is important for us to be aware of the issue and apply good practice to our homes and lifestyles in order to save water for our grandchildren and generations to come.”

But water shortage and wastage isn’t just an issue limited to our households. A huge concern is with businesses and, in particular, the oil industry, something which is next on the agenda for Ghalayini and the BMG Foundation. ”We started off with the household, but the next initiative will be the oil industry, as they use a lot of water to extract oil. Agricultural wastage of water is also another problem, especially here in the Gulf. In other countries you don’t need so much water, as it comes from natural sources.

“We need to think more about importing products from other countries in order to save water. Why waste five litres of water to produce one litre of milk? From a pure economics point of view, it is not practical to produce dairy products that desperately need water. We need to import from other countries who have more water and this will, in turn, benefit their economy too.”

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1. Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, accompanied by His Highness, Prince Turki Bin Abdullah Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud, present the cup to the winning team. 2. A stylish couple arrive from the racing at Royal Ascot to catch the polo action. 3. Basil Al Ghalayini. 4. Nayla Lahoud from the BMG Foundation celebrates with the victorious Guards’ team. 5. Arabic and Western royalty rubbed shoulders at the event. 6. His Highness, Prince Turki Bin Abdullah Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud with members of the GCC team. And this is not just a problem that needs addressing in the Gulf. Water preservation is a global concern, he continued. “Water shortage is not only about the Middle East, Africa or certain parts of Asia. It is a global problem and we need to join forces.” “When I started the foundation we were focusing on the cultural bridge between the East and the West through sports and arts etc. I believe that now, if they collaborate and join forces by comparing scientific research, I am sure we can forge peaceful relationships and not fight about water. Water should be a tool of peace.” In that mission for peace and commitment to the environment, as well as bringing the younger generation on board, the foundation also needs international support from individuals and businesses who want to share in its quest to make change: “I would like to reach out to companies in the Gulf and internationally who share the same concerns and vision as me. Water is a crucial issue and a global social responsibility.”

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s d n e r T ential d confi

A nOd TO

NosTAlGIA >>> Type the word “nostalgia” into Wikipedia and up pops “a yearning for the past, often in idealised form.” Now we all know that Wikipedia isn’t always the last word in 100% accuracy; but that pretty much sums up a term that refers back to those good old days and a beautiful old time. And who can deny it, whether it’s the euphoria of the post-war buzz or simply an antique with a happy story to tell; nostalgia makes us smile.

After summer’s seventies redux, our autumn wardrobes look set to reminisce about the good old days of the fabulous forties.

So if nostalgia is that good then why, when it comes to our wardrobes, have we all been so preoccupied first with the eighties, the decade of excess, and more recently “retro,” which draws heavily from the seventies? Why has retro taken over our vocabulary, home interiors and wardrobes, while “nostalgia” simply remains as something in our hearts?

Retro is defined as “a culturally outdated, or aged, style, trend or fashion, from the postmodern past that has since become functionally or superficially the norm once again.” While nostalgia is a reference back to memories of “all things bright and beautiful,” retro is, in fact, a trend that we once dismissed and has gone out of fashion and then come back again.

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But why limit style to bringing back something which was banished first time around, when those much-loved nostalgic times are just waiting to be given a second wind, especially during such tough economic times. Yes, the hedonistic seventies have brightened up our spirits and wardrobes for the summer, but add a hefty serving of nostalgia into the world of fashion and watch our wardrobes glisten for autumn. Autumn is set to be the season that harks back to the beguilingly beautiful and the eternally stylish. As designers embrace this newfound love of nostalgia, we herald the beauty of a much-loved era and, most predominantly for autumn, the elegance of the fabulous forties. What is there not to love about the forties? This was the decade which began the post World War II boom, taking society out of a war and into a new free-spirited world which would last on into the 1970s. This was the era when Tupperware and Velcro were invented and commercial TV began its dominance over our consumption of entertainment.

MIU MIU

JONATHAN SAUNDERS

EMPORIO ARMANI In terms of fashion, just ten or twenty years ago, the term retro was relegated to merely a less than sophisticated fancy dress theme. But more recently, and with particular attention to the SS 11 season, we have seen a serious retro renaissance with the stylish return to the seventies with hippy flares, flower power ruffle blouses and spaghetti strapped gold lurex all-in-ones. Our fashion senses turned to buried, has-been trends which have been exhumed and reanimated to tread the catwalks once again. What was once a fashion faux pas is now the height of cool.

Women yearned after Frank Sinatra and Humphrey Bogart. This was the decade of good old-fashioned feminine allure and the era of glamorous pin-up girls such as Rita Hayworth, Katherine Hepburn and Betty Grable. In terms of the actual fashion, who doesn’t yearn for a tiny waist and an elegant sleek silhouette? Although we might not be cutting up our table cloths to make our skirts, or utilising men’s clothes to make a chic suit, designers have certainly taken inspiration from this optimistic and glamour seeking era. And the influx of a new decade into today’s fashion doesn’t call for like-for-like reproductions of fashions from half a century ago. The times are merely an inspiration and a rebirth of a fashion spirit, and this is what the designers do best. Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders’ AW 11 collection recalls and reminisces the optimistic days of the forties, oozing post war elegance but with a modern day twist. His legendary prints have brought nostalgic forties prints up to date, while pencil skirts, belted suits and slit sheath dresses are a stunning take on a style synonymous with ladylike grace. “Fashion is reactionary to culture,” explains Jonathan. “For example, you would never have a 1980s theme right now because it has connotations of the ostentatious and the flamboyant and that just doesn’t feel appropriate.” The forties was an era too, fuelled by passion; a passion for change. “I’m curious about women, I want to challenge their passion,” said designer Miuccia Prada at her AW 11 show, which saw a nostalgic collection

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But it is really Miuccia’s collection for Miu Miu that exudes the glamour associated with the 1940s and in particular post-war Paris. Shift dresses are figure hugging and womanly, but with bold shoulders, demure long sleeves, a below the knee hem and high necklines often with a little white collar. Colours are simple and prints of birds and white flowers hark back to the original prints of the day. One designer who has incorporated the more “make do and mend” attitude reminiscent of the era with his AW 11 collection is Erdem Moralioglu. His muse for the collection, an artist’s wife, would

make clothes from pieces of her partner’s canvasses, which she had torn up in a rage. The result is a beautiful collection which the Canadian designer describes as “fragile with disheveled sex appeal,” a collage of calf skimming shift dresses merging lace with tweeds and sequins and impressionist style prints, all amongst a dark and subdued palette, but with flashes of vibrance and the psychedelic. Slinky to the elbow gloves also give a sophisticated feel to the collection and, if you are looking for an easy way to add a forties feel to your autumn wardrobe, invest in a pair of elbow length gloves. They have been all over the catwalks, including Emporio Armani, who debuted a chic black leather variety. Film Noir was the theme for this AW 11 Emporio Armani collection, which took the colour theme to the extreme with a pretty much all black collection. The silhouette created by a slinky pencil skirt matched with a broad shouldered coat and a dose of the

• sur la terre • trends confidential •

VICTORIA BECKHAM

PRADA taking inspiration from not only the forties, but also the 1920s and the swinging sixties. The collection has hints of the innocence of forties glamour with sheer shifts and below the knee lengths, but twenties style dropped waists with a more demure straight up and down silhouette and 60s style big buttoned swing coats add a distinct dolly bird feel.

femme fatale attitude is certainly one to be reckoned with this autumn. Renowned for her beautifully cut and tailored hour-glass silhouetted dresses, Victoria Beckham’s autumn collection has a distinct forties touch. Speaking at her show in New York, Victoria stated: “I want to give women more freedom,” which she has done brilliantly by not only sticking to her trademark waist cinching dresses and gripping pencil skirts, but by introducing a looser and liberating shift style silhouette, perfectly embodying the post-war sentiment. With the help of Mrs. Beckham, Miss. Prada and Mr. Armani, if we can sum up autumn’s nostalgia in three words, it has to be elegance, freedom and passion. So, what are the three key wardrobe essentials for the season’s nod to nostalgia? A pencil skirt, sheath dress and a broad shouldered, big buttoned, belted coat - finished off with a fine pair of to-the-elbow gloves for added evening elegance.

>>> A style icon at just 5-years old, Suri Cruise shows how summer brights and girly dresses are picture perfect for little ladies

Image: GUCCI

Look book

Colour Cruise

Top tip >>>

Ruffles and tiers give a grown up look without being too over-the-top, but to keep things really cute and girly add a flower or bow hair accessory.

CELEBRITY STYLE: For little Suri Cruise, her style is all about “mini-me” dressing, always accessorising her dress with cute jewellery, matching shoes and even a handbag. All celeberty images © splashnews.com

ORANGE DRESS Ilgufo, SPOTTY DRESS Ilgufo, FLORAL DRESS Next, SHOES Armani Junior, SWIMSUIT Sunuva at Gift-Library. com, FLIP FLOPS Next, PINK TOP Debenhams, HAIR CLIP Peach Ribbons at Gift-Library.com

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Where Art Thou Romeo? Look book

Image: GUCCI

>>> Debuting at number 26 on GQ’s Best Dressed Male list, Romeo Beckham certainly has summer’s quirky fun style to a tee

Top tip >>>

Trainers or Converse All Stars work for both casual or formal outings and look fabulous when teamed with jeans, a T-shirt and waistcoat.

CELEBRITY STYLE: It’s all about the accessories for Romeo Beckham. Go the extra style mile with coloured shades, caps and beanies. All celeberty images © splashnews.com / Getty images.

SHORTS Ilgufo, SHIRT J by Jasper Conran, JEANS Ilgufo, JACKET Next, TRAINERS Armani Junior, POLO SHIRT Ilgufo, SUNGLASSES Ray Ban, TRAINERS Armani Junior, POLO SHIRT Mothercare

• sur la terre • look book •

IN MOTION

FASHION

DESIGN

In motion

FF ur

Play On a snow-capped Italian mountain, Kevin Hackett gets to grips with the hottest hatchback ever, the Ferarri FF.

• •sur surlalaterre terre• •insection motion• •

>>> Something strange is happening. I’m hammering out of a tight corner on a mountain road in northern Italy’s spectacular Dolomites, driving a V12 Ferrari. The sun is hot and the road is slippery as the winter snows start to thaw, but what’s thrown me is that, despite the tarmac being turned into Teflon, and the fact that this Ferrari is putting down no less than 650bhp, it’s utterly, sublimely composed. It’s practically egging me on, sneering at me with a maniacal cackle as if to say: “Is that all you’ve got? You’re pathetic.” Err, sorry, I’ll try harder next time. But if you’ll bear with me, I need to pull over so my Kuwaiti passenger can throw up. He’s been looking a bit pasty all afternoon, but the Ferrari’s obviously beaten him into submission. While he’s otherwise engaged in a roadside hedgerow, let’s take a moment or two to check out this Modenese badboy. Normal cars don’t have 650 horses straining at the barn door. Even normal Ferraris don’t have this much firepower. But this, the all-new FF, is no normal Ferrari. Hang on a minute. Haven’t we been here before? A large, two-plus-two GT styled by an Italian design house, powered by a huge engine up front with a distinctive rear hatchback? With four-wheel drive, called the FF?

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It was back in 1966 that the British car company Jensen turned the motoring world on its head with its FF, only that time the nomenclature stood for ‘Ferguson Formula’ in deference to Ferguson Research, the geniuses that invented the stunning Jensen’s all-wheel drive transmission. It was, and still is, an undisputed classic. Everyone seems to credit Audi with bringing four-wheel drive to production cars but little old Jensen was there way before the Germans.

The interior is a study in Italian flair with rich, supple hides covering practically every surface. Overall the design is pure and simple, only the carbon fibre steering wheel and its F1-style buttons threatening to upset the Learjet vibe. An (optional) passenger display screen relays information about speed, gear selections, rpm, g-force, you name it. It’s bound to be used as evidence in a divorce court some day - what were they thinking? Best give that one a miss.

It’s a pity then, that Ferrari chooses to ignore the blindingly obvious similarities to its new model’s namesake. At the very least, perhaps, they should have given it a different name. No matter, because while the Jensen FF changed the way car designers viewed traction and safety (it was also the first production car with ABS), the new Ferrari could be said to be a trailblazer in different ways because it marks a sea change in the Prancing Horse’s technical arsenal. The FF could very well be the most important Ferrari for decades.

There genuinely is room in the rear for two grown-ups and the boot offers 450 litres of space, almost doubling to 800 if you fold the back seats. So it’s practical, and this is one of the reasons the FF has been treated to four-wheel drive. Ferrari’s customers were evidently getting fed up because they couldn’t use their cars for the annual skiing trip to Chamonix. And now they can, thanks to a revolutionary transmission system that makes the FF feel like a Ferrari should, only safer.

FF stands for Ferrari Four. But four what, exactly? Four seats? Fourwheel drive? Actually, both. According to Ferrari, the FF is the answer to the demands and wishes of many of its customers. It turned out that what Ferrari’s clientele wanted was a stylish, powerful supercar with enough room for the kids/colleagues/golf buddies/Labradors, that was safe to drive in all weather conditions and felt like a Ferrari should feel. The result is a truly spectacular car. The looks, it has to be said, are controversial, with a front end that’s reminiscent of the recent 458 Italia and a backside that cannot help but remind onlookers of BMW’s crazy Z3 M Coupe. In its defence, though, it does look much better when you see it for real. Just like the Jensen FF, in fact. And, at almost five metres long and two metres wide, the Ferrari is nothing if not physically imposing.

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It’s perhaps worth considering what 650bhp would be like on the road without the aid of traction control. Utterly undriveable. Even cars that are stuffed with tech struggle to put down that sort of power if only the rear boots are pressed into service. Ferrari calls its new transmission 4RM and I could tie you up in knots with the incredible science of it all but, essentially, it’s 50 per cent lighter than traditional four-wheel drive systems, allows for more than half the FF’s weight to be pressing down on the rear axle and there’s no mechanical connection between rear and front axles because they’re linked to two completely independent traction systems. All of which means the FF can be rear-wheel drive only, except in extreme conditions, which in turn means it drives just like a V12 Ferrari should. It’s an utter joy to drive hard. The engine is a masterpiece and any fears about the FF being a softie are banished as soon as the key is turned and the starter button pressed. Mountain roads mean lots of tunnels, which is what’s known as ‘a very good thing’. The process for deepseated joy is simple: reduce speed, drop into second gear and stamp on the throttle. Result? Savage acceleration and a noise unlike anything else, as the racket bounces back off the walls and into the appreciative eardrums of anyone within a 2km radius. Seriously, it’s absolutely epic.

It goes without saying that performance levels are astronomical but, thanks to that clever tech, there’s a newfound confidence in the way the FF handles. It does feel like the shove is coming from the back but hit a corner with too much speed (easily done) and you feel the front instantly grip, turning the car in with razor-sharp precision. Car and occupants live to see another day, even if one of them loses his lunch on the autostrada. Despite the FF’s size and power reserves, it feels smaller and more focused than any car this big has a right to. The brakes (carbon, naturally) are brilliant, the magnetic dampers ensure the FF remains utterly unfazed in all conditions and the F1 gearbox shifts ratios so quickly now, that anyone hankering for a manual shifter needs his head examined. It really is instantaneous. It’s a superb car, but then it should be. It’s a Ferrari. What it’s done, though, is take the brand on all fours into uncharted territory with mind-blowing technology and an all-new style. But its most impressive accomplishment is that it’s the first genuinely desirable four-seat Ferrari. Mission accomplished: the FF is a proper Ferrari, a genuine four-seat supercar.

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In motion

Low Flying

Duke Motorcycle enthusiast, Tim Stevens, gets to grips with an Italian Stallion at Losail International Circuit on the Ducati 1198S. Photography: Jonathan Doe

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>>> It was the afternoon before the open track day at Losail International Circuit, and I was pondering the same conundrum I always seem to have on the eve of these things. Should I take the big Suzuki or, well, the big Suzuki? Just when I was resigned to throwing the Japanese crotch rocket around Qatar’s MotoGP circuit again, the phone rang. It was Alfardan Motorcycles, asking me whether I would like to play with the new Ducati 1198S for the weekend. My heart leapt, “do one legged ducks swim in circles?” I responded. I was like a kid at Christmas as the The Ducati 1198S was unloaded on my driveway and was stunned by its mechanical beauty! If Elisabetta Canalis was a bike, she would be this one. Ducati definitely got it right with the single sided swing arm when they introduced it on the 916, it is just gorgeous. It doesn’t belong on a bike, it should be hanging in some art museum. Of course, the archetypal Ducati is red, just like it’s four wheel cousin, the Ferrari, and purists will consider anything else is “not a real Ducati”. In fact, I subscribed to that school of thought right up until I saw the 1198S in deep, shiny, gloss black! Forget the bike snobs, I predict that in two year’s time, Ducati will have a problem keeping up with demand for re-sprays. A quick shufti at the detail of the bike showed lightweight wheels, Brembo calipers, Brembo master cylinder and levers, Öhlins-built front suspension and I was pleased to clock that the 1198S was running Pirelli Diablo Corsas - my favorite track day rubber. So, with this nice looking, tricked out two-wheeled terror taunting me to climb aboard and open her up, I recall the immortal words of Chuck Jeager: “How fast does it go then, mate?”

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I turn the key, and like Tron’s Lightcycle, the LED dash springs to life with “Ducati 1198S” spelt out as it cycles (cool!). I push the button, wait a few seconds while the starter motor overcomes the compression (or whatever it does) and I am rewarded with a purposeful bark from the twin, underseat mufflers. Adreniline courses through me as I pull away and the engine delivers its glorious, deep, resonant - distinctly Ducati - approval. I rode it to the track and while fast, I did not really enjoy this; the road is not really what the 1198S is designed for. It is painful on the wrists, and I got a cramp within about a metre of pulling away and there was a nasty flat spot at 5000rpm. Then there are the roads themselves, which are littered with things waiting to damage the bike. I don’t think I would take this on a long road trip around the region, but that could just be me... Once at the track, however, the bike found its rhythm. I found myself really looking forward to the next hour or so; and the Duke did not disappoint. It was an amazing transformation from the on-road performance and everything worked in a synergistic way to, literally, hurl me round the track. The torque from the 1200cc V-twin was awesome, especially between turns one and two; the bike just launched itself from its almost horizontal position on the way out of turn one to the braking point of turn two, which, on the first few laps, I missed altogether, deciding instead to barrel straight ahead! I did have the traction control set at the midway point, but it didn’t really seem to be intervening. Even the most fearless rider would be hesitant to test it to its limits with sheer power of the Duke underneath them, and likewise the thought of fully opening the throttle violently while banked over was not one that appealed to me more than my instinct to remain alive. Saying that, though, the brakes were phenomenal; there did not seem to be a point that I could consider that the bike would not stop;

common sense stopped me exploring this further, but I never came close to upsetting the bike. This total control from the brakes gives the rider enormous confidence. Once in the corner, the suspension and the tyres allowed, frankly, silly angles of lean with great stability and control that reminded me of my race bike on slicks; incredible for a road bike on road tyres, especially considering that the suspension was set at standard and thus very soft for the track. The only place this softness was an issue was in turn 11, a sweeper taken with full acceleration; the bike was a bit “wallowy” here. I have some negatives of the bike on the day, all of which can be dialled out. I wasn’t sure that the slipper clutch was working, as the back end hopped and skipped into corners if I changed too early and the throttle was super sensitive, leading to some jerkiness in the delivery. It was the gearbox that caused the most upset; it needed a hard engagement of the lever to go up or down the box, and anything else resulted in a missed neutral or worse, losing the engaged gear. However, that said, this may be related to the clutch comment and I am sure was only on this bike (A little Italian temprement is to be expected though, surely? - Man. Ed.). Despite these issues, the gear shift enabled a satisfying burble and backfire that I am sure could have been heard on the main road when changing down! The riding position is designed for the track and I am pleased to report no sore wrists or cramp during the session. All in all, the Duke is a must have toy for those well-heeled thrill seekers looking for a weekend adrenaline rush. Those who know the Ducati range in detail will know that the 1198S has now stepped aside for the 1198SP and if it’s sibling is anything to go by, with it’s upgraded specification sheet, it will be the bike to have; I cannot wait until the track day season opens again and see this in the metal, doing what it was designed to do.

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Silk dress, Burberry Prorsum Leather laser cut coat, Schumacher Bracelets, Hermès Shoes, Lerre

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fashion

Weekend on the lake

Photographer Giuliano Plorutti Stylist Gloria Storchi and Eleonora Da Vià Model Debora Franchi@fashion Makeup and hair stylist Antonio Musumeci@coppola Assistant digital Valentina Vitali Assistant photographer Nicolò Bombolotti Assistant stylist Carolina Baldacchini Gargano

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Knit top, Vicedomini Trousers, Stella McCartney Coat, Maison Albino Bag, Chanel Shoes, Jimmy Choo Sunglasses, Giorgio Armani by Safilo

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White sleeveless shirt, Aragone Skirt, Andrew Gn Bag, COCCINELLE Leather belt, ERMANNO SCERVINO Shoes, Christian Louboutin

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105 83

Red chiffon top and trousers, DKNY Shoes, Roberto del Carlo Bag, Trussardi Scarf, Valentino Sunglasses, Chanel

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Trousers, Mila Schon Scarf, Valentino Bag, RED Valentino Top, Schumacher Shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti

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Total look, Prada Scarf, Hermès Shoes, Christian Louboutin Bracelet, Chanel

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design

mirrors:

With Ramadan swiftly settling in like the thick haze of summer heat that heralds it, Sur la Terre looks into the past, present and future of quite possibly the most favoured flavoured activity to do once the sun goes down during the Holy Month: enjoying a shisha. 1

The Myth and Magic of the Narghile â&#x20AC;˘ sur la terre â&#x20AC;˘ design â&#x20AC;˘

Wisping in History The history of the narghile, alternatively known as the water, shisha or hookah pipe, is, if you’ll pardon the pun, something of a smokescreen. Some say the tradition was first sparked in China, while others maintain that it was a Persian invention dating back to the early 16th century Shah, Tahmasp I. However, the most widely held belief is that the origins of the narghile rose from the embers in northern India during the 15th century, when the country first began seeing an influx of tobacco from the British East India Company and simultaneously began producing and exporting glass.

Here in the Middle East, the narghile is not just an instrument... it’s an institution. Most side streets in cities like Doha are perfumed with the pungent bouquet of shisha smoke, and through darkened windows, it’s a regular sight to see large narghiles blooming like palm fronds under plumes of thick, almost viscous smoke, all set to the symphony of clinking glass and brass. While it may not be the healthiest of hobbies, sitting down with a cup of sweet tea, a couple of friends and a few cards, all over a piping narghile is a cultural observance that is steeped in history, and one that persists in popularity today. Of course, if you took a picture of the above proceedings and filtered it through a sepia-tone app on your newfangled smart phone, you probably wouldn’t be able to tell much difference from the look of the practice today and a similar picture taken in the time of Hakim Abu’l Fath Gīlānī.

In fact, some historians even credit one person with the idea, citing a gentleman of Iranian descent by the name of Hakim Abu’l Fath Gīlānī, who it turns out has his own Facebook page, by the way. In his role as a physician within the court of Mughal, Gīlānī began voicing a few health concerns about tobacco smoking once it became popular within the Indian aristocracy of the time. He therefore (allegedly) devised a system whereby a coconut base would act as a water reservoir and “purify” the tobacco smoke that was drawn through it. Once the invention inevitably found its way back to Persia, it was named for its focal elements, the coconut, which in Persian translates to, as you might guess, nārghile. Now, some “hookanspiracy theorists” say that the process Gīlānī created was already being used in the Persian province of Gilan, and that it was from here (the region from whence Hakim’s family originally hailed) that he got the idea, thus taking the true origins back to Persia. However, this could just be rabble-rousers blowing smoke, so let’s all just pipe down. Regardless of whomever came up with the idea or where and how it was generated, use of the narghile has become a multi-cultural pastime, and is enjoyed in just about every country throughout the world, each implementing its own attributes, customs and traditions.

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Founded by architect/designer Joseph El Khoury in 2003, Ex Nihilo has taken the ethos of its name - a Latin phrase meaning “out of nothing,” and used it as its core philosophy, particularly in its avant-garde approach to the humble hookah. Considered one of the first designers to contribute to a new concept of hookah design, El Khoury quickly gained international notoriety for his new take on an old standard. Anyone who was fortunate to have lived in Doha during the days when the Wahm at the W Hotel still offered shisha would have seen his classy, modern and angular take on the narghile. Other hookah designs he has created through Ex Nihilo have been the cylindrical Café Blanc, which he says encapsulates the current style of modern Lebanon; the Aladdin, which takes its cues from the mythic traditions of oriental civilisation made popular in One Thousand and One Nights and the Discus, which uses shape, colour and, as El Khoury puts it “a game of transparency and contrast” to give this pastime a new flavour.

That visual anachronism is mostly thanks to the seemingly stagnant development of the narghiles themselves. Admittedly, they have come a long way from being little more than a lovely bunch of coconuts, but while the glass-blown billow is iconic and indeed beautiful, it’s a bit played out as a cool lifestyle accessory. So, what do you do when an institution as fundamental to a culture goes, for lack of a better pun, “up in smoke?” Well, you do what you always do when you think you’ve found all the answers. You start changing the questions. Deus Ex Nihilo “Why is there something rather than nothing?” In posing this elementary inquiry, Lebanese design house Ex Nihilo has changed the way we look at and experience the previous sacrosanct simplicity of otherwise prosaic household items. In its bid to spin something new from nothing special, Ex Nihilo has created, amongst other things, colour-palpitating platters, labyrinthian lamps, bulbous tissue holders and extraterrestrial mosquito repellants. Its narghile, however, are the pièces de résistance of the entire collection, and from them is where the true spirit of the company billows.

Using modern materials like stainless steel, chromed brass and plexiglas have allowed El Khoury to add an endurance, both in physical strength and aesthetic, that previously did not exist in hookah-making, and it is that new approach that is allowing the narghile to transcend itself into new territories of appreciation. “Many non-smokers have bought my hookah designs,” says El Khoury, “for the simple reason of displaying them for their elegant shapes.” Even though Ex Nihilo, much like Hakim Abu’l Fath Gīlānī before it, has proven to be a game-changer on the smoking scene, that doesn’t mean it’s willing to rest on the laurels of it historical success. “Every breaking dawn embraces a new idea and a new project,” says El Khoury. “Currently, I am working on developing several new hookah designs that will see the light soon.” We can’t wait to breathe in these new designs and see where the next evolution of the narghile will lead.

1. The Aladdin 2. The Discus 3. The Cafe Blanc 4. The W Hotel Narghile

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HORIZONS

ORIGINS

MARKET PLACE

out of the box

BEAUTY

BETWEEN THE LINES

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on z i r o h

Empress of the North

For the first time since he has developed a disposable income, Senior Editor Steve Paugh revisits his old stomping grounds in Edinburgh, Scotland, and in the process, falls in love all over again.

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Tucked discreetly under coal-black spires that scratch with gnarled tendrils at the sky, Boswell’s Court generally looks like all the other closes (as alleys are called in Edinburgh) cobwebbing from the famed main street in clusters of wet cobblestone veins. The difference of Boswell’s Court, however, is what waits in hiding at its end. The Witchery by the Castle is quite probably the most mythic restaurant in Edinburgh. Thanks to its dark and decadent character, it is the ultimate sign of unattainable luxury and is the piquant sybaritic tease that inspires our low-salary salivation. It is, in short, the eye of aspiration. Princes Street - Edinburgh, Scotland Five years ago “Let’s get a drink” is one of my favourite and, thus, more regular suggestions, and on this fine summer day spent walking down one of Edinburgh’s most well-travelled thoroughfares, I say it with not a small amount of enthusiasm. In response, and with the uncanny speed of a startled pigeon, my girlfriend Katy twists her head towards me, at the same time shooting me one of her classic wide-eyed looks; the kind that seems to silently say, “You, sir, are a keeper,” but could also mean, “You, sir, have a drinking problem.” “Ooh, good idea,” she says, giving voice to my preferred interpretation, and we’re off down the pub for a quick pint and a long chat. As we turn on our heels in the direction of one of Edinburgh’s finer establishments, we suddenly, and simultaneously, realise the fallacy of our plan. As two struggling post-postgraduates with degrees in the liberal arts, we are both, to use the vernacular, “broke as hell.” Defeated, deflated and a bit dejected, we instead opt for a long walk through the city to take in the two things you CAN get for free in Scotland’s capital during the summer: fresh air and beautiful scenery. We eventually make our way onto another of Edinburgh’s most famous streets, The Royal Mile. On our way up to the castle, however, we get distracted by what, to anyone else, would appear to be an otherwise unremarkable alley.

“One day...” I begin, glaring down Boswell’s Close into a secret garden of witches and wonders. “One day...” I say again, this time looking at Katy, who, as always, smiles back encouragingly. “One day... we will go to the Witchery.” The Witchery - Edinburgh, Scotland - Today “I’ll have the venison,” I say, smiling at Katy as she orders, with relish, the steak pie. After our knowledgeable waiter takes our order and we clink together the glasses of cold, crisp Brut Champagne kindly ordered by the Witchery’s Wine Buyer and Head Sommelier, John Power, we shift around and take in the medieval mystique of The Witchery’s famed outdoor grotto, The Secret Garden, and smile the smiles of silent disbelief. “This is perfect,” says Katy, again lifting her glass. As I finger the diamond ring in my pocket and prepare in my mind exactly how I’m going to ask this gorgeous woman to marry me, I smile and say, “Yes it is.”

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“What Paris ought to be” It’s almost impossible NOT to fall in love in, around and indeed with Edinburgh. Celebrated writer and Edinburgh native Robert Louis Stevenson once said of the city that it, “is what Paris ought to be.” Understandable bias from a hometown boy notwithstanding, the inherent romance of Edinburgh is inescapable, and while it may not be as internationally lauded as that which so flippantly perambulates throughout the French capital, its gravity and depth somehow seem more palpable, and beat with a much deeper thrum. You can see it in the piercingly verdant canopy of landscape that sways in an intoxicated canter through the smoke and time-stained beauty of the city’s brickwork facade, and in the unbelievable dynamism of ever swirling skies. You can read it in the liner notes of its visceral lore, and taste it in the stodgy texture of its warmly Another area to check out is Leith. Edinburgh’s old port used to have a reputation for comforting cuisine. You can hear it in the light cadence being a bit rough, but has recenlty cleaned up its act and become quite trendy in parts, of the thick Scottish brogue as it peppers the night in especially with restaurants like the Plumed Horse, which boasts three AA Rosettes and its “auld” song and new revelry, and in the heavy haunt of own Michelin Star. Leith still has a lot of old tasty charm to enjoy too, like the legendary bagpipes, sounding in a chorus of moist voices down fish and chips at The Famous Peacock Inn, the haggis at The King’s Wark and the good narrow wynds and closes. Never, and nowhere else, times and cheap pints at The Port O’Leith pub. will you feel a city like you do Edinburgh. An entire series of books could be written on Edinburgh, and indeed many have, but Perhaps this is because Edinburgh is a city of many suffice it to say that everything you can imagine, and some things you never could, are on worlds, not to mention multiple eras. After exiting offer here. From pagan fire festivals (Beltane in April) to family outdoor picnics (Arthur’s Waverley Station, you will see to your right, not only Seat / Blackford Hill) to citywide, month-long celebrations of the arts (the International the new hustle and modern day bustle of the city’s and Fringe Festivals in August) to simply going for a walk on one of the welcome sunny shopping epicentre, Princes Street, but also the days (Royal Botanical Gardens / Princes Street Gardens), Edinburgh has it all, lovingly beginnings of the New Town’s planned Georgian tucked into a city of facets. architecture. On your left rises the dense, stoic spine of Edinburgh’s Old Town, undulating in the In perhaps no other structure is this metropolitan multiplicity better exemplified than in ongoing yet still brick and glass thrash of its organic our first official port of call in Edinburgh, The Balmoral Hotel. medieval writhe. Within this thick phalanx of stone is Edinburgh’s historic centre, including the aforementioned Royal Mile, which connects Edinburgh Castle at the top of the hill to The Palace of Holyrood House at the bottom. Along the way, of course, there are tours that take you beneath the city, where haunt the ghosts of history, both in the felled architecture that once stood, and the apparitions of populaces past. You don’t have to look far in Edinburgh to experience spirits of a different kind, as the watering holes and nightlife spots are as numerous as the clouds in the Scottish sky. George and Rose Streets in the New Town feature your more up-market venues, wherein a few, like Milnes Bar, you can literally drink in Edinburgh’s literary legacy and others, like The Cafe Royal and The Dome, offer a more refined feel. Grassmarket just behind the castle on the Old Town side is another well-loved hangout. A pint at The Last Drop, where prisoners were allowed their last wee dram of whiskey before heading to the nearby gallows, or a dance at Cabaret Voltaire, shouldn’t be missed.

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The Balmoral Hotel Originally built in 1902 under the auspices of the North British Railway Company, the Balmoral went through a £23 million refurbishment in 1988. Within that period, some of the most wellknown stars of screen and stage stayed there, including Sophia Loren, the late Elizabeth Taylor and Paul McCartney. Since its renaming, purchase and subsequent rebranding under the Rocco Forte Collection in 1997, The Balmoral has had many claims to fame, including the opening of the city’s first and only Michelin-starred hotel restaurant (Number One), Britain’s only Bollinger Bar and the site where J.K. Rowling finished the final installment of her popular series of novels, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. While I may not have the otherworldly prowess of the protagonist in the above book, walking through the large glass doors of The Balmoral was indeed a magical experience, although one that I didn’t necessarily expect. On first entering the foyer, it’s easy to see that, while definitely espousing a Scottish flair, the Balmoral enjoys a natural effervescence; not one weighed down by the sometimes thick and heavy tartan tonality often associated with the country. The exterior may exude with the presence of a renaissance castle, replete with the panopticon gaze of its all-seeing clock tower against an imposing background of granite sky, but the inside is bright, airy and welcoming, draped in silken whites and skylit by dandling chandeliers. Walking in from the oft-grey streets of Edinburgh into this oasis is an immediate mood enhancer. This lightness of being continues through to the 188 bedrooms and 20 uniquely individualised suites at the Balmoral. I was fortunate to have a room overlooking Edinburgh Castle looming in the distance, and the soot-black Scott Monument slashing its dark and beautiful Gothic scar along Princes Street in the foreground. However imposing our view, though, our spacious room was the perfect example of what Olga Polizzi, Rocco Forte’s Director of Building & Design, was going for in the hotel’s 2007 refurbishment. Everything has a subtle, more homegrown luxury than we are used to in the ostentatious Arabian Gulf, with only sophisticated hints at a deeper culture lounging throughout its asymmetrical yet open and welcoming plan. After taking my own self-guided tour of the Balmoral, noting particularly its spectacularly appointed Bollinger Bar, and then spending an hour taking tea in the inviting Drawing Room with Lauren Meldrum, the hotel’s knowledgeable and accommodating PR & Marketing Manager, it became clear that, just as I had imagined whilst looking in from the outside cold of the Edinburgh street, the Balmoral was a place of refinement and taste... a description, in this case, I found to be indeed quite literal.

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Number One Naming your restaurant “Number One” is a bit like naming your child “Doctor” or “President.” It’s a big thing to live up to. Luckily, the Balmoral’s signature restaurant meets its self-fulfilling prophecy with gusto, and deserves its well-chosen monicker. Number One has enjoyed the lustre of its Michelin Star since 2003, thanks in most part to the leadership of its kitchen’s kaiser, Chef Jeff Bland. Don’t let his name fool you though, the French-infused cuisine at Number One under his direction is anything BUT “bland,” and in fact is some of the best I have ever had the pleasure of tasting in my position here at Sur la Terre. Your appetite for finer tastes at Number One begins long before the meal is served thanks mainly to the flavour of its interior decor. Yet another delicious idea from Olga Polizzi was seamlessly marrying a rich feel, brought to bear by deep, lush, red lacquered walls and golden velvet banquettes, with a refreshingly funky verve in the brushstrokes of hand-chosen pieces of art procured from former graduates of the Institute of Art in London. The effect of this synthesis of sorts is an ethos of being haute... without being haughty.

surprisingly piquant tang of seafood foam and the mellow melt of West Coast scallops (freshly dived earlier that week) was a collision of earthy flavours that never clashed with one another. The mains consisted of impossibly soft Scottish beef and a sea bass fillet that continued Number One’s textural trend, captivating us and itself within its blackened, crispy skin. We followed these filling (and fulfilling) dishes with yet another tasting, but this on the sweet side of the meal. One white chocolate delice, a perfect Crème brûlée and a strangely satisfying celery sorbet later, and our souls could not have been more sated. Number One exemplifies the gourmet grounded in an earthliness, and in that, it is without peer, but to transcend the bonds of taste into something perhaps more “ethereal,” we must return to the beginning, where the legacy of our discovery of Edinburgh luxury first began, and the place where my own personal life further ascended. By the licking of my gums... something wicked this way comes.

The waiting staff at Number One was par excellence, and set a new standard for being an accessory to your meal without being part of it. Championing a “live and let dine” attitude I find missing elsewhere, our servers intrinsically knew when they were needed and when to stand back; when to inquire and when to instruct. The sommelier was similarly outstanding, offering her vast knowledge to complement our culinary quest with distinction. And what a journey it was. Chef Bland changes the menu at Number One regularly to keep abreast with the best in seasonal freshness. My dinner guest, once again the very fortunate Katy, opted for a tasting of the spring starter courses, which ended up being a tale of textures. The auld alliance was already alive in a gorgeous rabbit confit, complemented by haggis balls, the crackling shell of which swaddled its smooth-as-mousse heart with crisp perfection. What followed in the

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The Witchery Unlike Number One, The Witchery by the Castle is more deeply glazed in the varnish of the arcane. Named after the many witch burnings that took place in the adjacent Castlehill during the time of King James VI, the Witchery, since its establishment some 30 years ago by James Thomson OBE, may use its ovens for decidedly less distasteful fare, but its legacy still simmers in the double, double toil and trouble of the devilishly delicious. For the first time in our lengthy relationship with each other and with Edinburgh, Katy and I walked down Boswell’s Close towards The Witchery, slipping on its rain-slick street skin and tripping headily over our own anticipation. A hyacinth scent cast further enchantment as we entered the Secret Garden at The Witchery. Added in 1990, this venue may be a more recent addition, but it still resonates with the old and otherworldly charm of the original. After being led by the hostess down into what Katy called the “gardeny dungeon” of its dark environs, we were soon enveloped in the sparse flicker of candlelight. When combined with the ghostly luminosity that crept in from the great window overlooking its outdoor garden, in turn shedding a pale glow on the calligraphic scrawl that signed itself into the rich wood ceiling above us, the effect became something fantastically phantasmaglorious.

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However deep the mystique and darkly alluring the ambience of the Witchery’s atmosphere, the one element that lifted its veil with white magic was our server. Astonishing us with his ability to psychoanalyse our taste buds, he decanted a cornucopia of information about each dish’s ingredients and was able to help us decide what to order from the honestly intimidating menu. It was like a seance of taste, and we were happy to have him as our medium. Although the Witchery has its heart in another world, its head is concerned with this one. As a strong supporter of Scotland’s food producers, including its local farmers, fishermen, butchers and cheese makers, the restaurant sources all of its ingredients from home. My first taste of this commitment came in the form of my starter: scallops from the nearby Isle of Mull. Wrapped in butter, ham and a thyme dressing, the only thing better than the scallops’ semi-sweet caramel aroma was the incomparable taste it left as it evaporated on my tongue. Similarly arresting in both its bouquet and bite was the salmon tarine. Smoked in-house in birch and oak, the salmon gave off the distinctive perfume of a dram of whiskey, while the experience of tasting it was even more intoxicating. What followed for mains was a loin of Cairngorm venison served with a potato and turnip cake, squash puree, red cabbage and chocolate oil. The rich, hearty, thick slab of venison was rendered exquisitely in both taste and texture, showing off at the same time a deep and beautiful burgundy colour to herald its musky, resounding flavour. The sweet side of cabbage, in combination with the inspired mix of broccoli in anchovy butter, was just the thing to boil over the cauldron of my desire into a sorcerous sensory overload.

The final ingredients to my bewitchment came from the Witchery’s desserts, which included a chocolate torte, mango parfait, bread and butter pudding, a pistachio macaroon and puff candy ice cream. However, this was not the icing on the cake of our experience there. As spellbinding as The Witchery’s service and cuisine was, its best trick most definitely came with its finale, wherein it perfectly captured why Edinburgh is such an entrancing world capital. As the maître d swiftly, and with sly, slight-of-hand cunning, placed the diamond ring I had left with him earlier before an unsuspecting Katy, I knew that there would be no better time and no better place to ask, “Will you marry me?” In its tastes, sights and the cacophony of scents that gave it the nickname “Auld Reekie,” Edinburgh is alive with the senses, and it’s no small wonder that its seemingly stone-still soul can so easily move those who have seen it. Its spirit, like its weather, can saturate a man to the bone, while its hoary, charcoal soul can creep into the romance of memory like the misty Scottish “haar” and haunt it like a company of apparitions. It is a city of stone and sky; of luxury and lore. It is the city with, and in which, I fell in love. I guarantee, with the utmost certainty, that you will too. She said yes, by the way.

• sur la terre • horizons •

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• sur la terre • subscription •

origins

The Show Maria Luisa Tagariello takes a retrospective look at the origins of fashionista favourite, the late Alexander McQueen, and what the future holds for his brand.

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On. goes

• sur la terre • origins •

2 >>> It was October 6, 2009 when the most revolutionary catwalk show ever seen took place in Paris. This fashion show saw mutant women from a submarine world walk the catwalk to the tune of Bad Romance by Lady Gaga, while being filmed by cameras that multiplied their figures onto a giant screen. The show was directed by photographer and filmmaker Nick Knight and was transmitted live online and accessible to anyone in the world. “Every year, buyers and the press come to see the spectacle of my show,” McQueen said in an interview with WWD about his Spring/Summer 2010 collection. “But I want to generate something else, something for a wider audience - for people in Australia, Asia and Middle America, who don’t have a seat at the show. Really, what I’m aiming for is world domination! This is the birth of a new dawn.”

It actually heralded the end of a short but intense career. The designer took his own life on 11 February 2010, a desperate act following a severe depression. Between dream and reality, fine tailoring skill and imagination, Victorian reminiscences and futuristic cyborg style, romanticism and transgression, light and darkness... the visionary genius of McQueen captured the hearts of all those who love the often colliding worlds of fashion and art. In some cases, fashion may indeed be called art and it’s an art museum that is now celebrating the 19-year career of the “fashion hooligan,” as McQueen was once nicknamed in reference to his subversive streak. A retrospective of the tormented English genius is on at the Metropolitan Museum in New York until the 7th of August, and explores the complex and dark beauty of his creations, tracing his career - from the first sketches to the final collection presented posthumously - in an attempt to reveal something of the artist, but also of the man who struggled with depression and then gave in to it and put an end to his days aged just 40. Born in 1969 in London’s East End, Lee Alexander McQueen began his training with Anderson and Shepherd on Savile Row – London’s tailoring street par excellence – and then continued it with theatre costume designers Bermans & Nathans. It was these years that allowed the young McQueen to hone his elaborate tailoring techniques and become familiar with theatre and period costumes, in particular 17th century and Shakespearean-era clothing.

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After becoming acquainted with ready-to-wear fashion under Japanese designer Koji Tatsuno and working in the Romeo Gigli studio in Milan, he returned to London to complete his studies at Central Saint Martin’s School of Art. It was in 1992, during his end-of-year show, that he was spotted by Isabella Blow, a renowned fashion journalist (who also committed suicide in 2007). She bought the entire collection for £5,000 and became, from that moment on, the promising young designer’s mentor and muse. Also, Suzy Menkes, an influential journalist on the International Herald Tribune, was impressed by that first collection: “It is full of unusually creative substance and mastery of technique,” she wrote. “The cuts and embellishments are sublime.” The skills of a Savile Row tailor combined with the creativity of a boy from the street were always McQueen’s stylistic trademarks, even when he was appointed – to great clamour in the fashion cosmos - artistic director of Givenchy in 1997, taking over from his scandal-courting compatriot, John Galliano, to becoming the youngest couturier in history.

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The collaboration with the French fashion house lasted until 2001, the year in which the Gucci Group entered acquired 51% of the Alexander McQueen brand.

Unique, surprising and unconventional, his sartorial creations have the power to transport people into the realm of fantasy and are able to tell us much about the emotions of their creator.

Today, following the death of its creator, the brand continues life with McQueen’s friend and former first mate, Sarah Burton, at the helm. Pledging allegiance to McQueen’s legacy, her two debut collections have shown that she shares McQueen’s vision and she has been successful in the difficult task of maintaining continuity in terms of style and spirit, while transforming the label into something a little softer and less theatrical.

“His fashions were an outlet for his emotions, an expression of the deepest, often darkest, aspect of his imagination,” says curator of the retrospective, Andrew Bolton, in an interview with British newspaper The Guardian. “He was a true romantic in the Byronic sense of the word; he channelled the sublime.”

Winner of the best UK designer of the year award four times, awarded the CFDA’s International Designer of the Year Award and a prestigious CBE by Queen Elizabeth II for his contribution to British fashion, the enfant terrible of the fashion world was famous for his collections, both innovative and experimental, but also for his incredible catwalk shows.

“There is no way back for me now. I am going to take you on journeys you’ve never dreamed were possible.” Alexander McQueen.

For both the press and potential buyers, the British designer’s fashion shows were the most anticipated of the season; spectacularly flamboyant and provocative, they were always capable of generating a great deal of hype. In 1999 he hired model and double amputee, Aimee Mullins, to take part in his show on finely carved wooden prosthetic legs. For the Spring/Summer 2005 Collection he staged a game of human chess. The next season, his show was called Windows of Culloden, projecting the hologram of Kate Moss on to the catwalk while the UK was in the full throes of the cocaine-Kate scandal. In 2009, in addition to streaming his fashion show online, McQueen presented his Armadillo Shoes, hated by models for their towering 30 cm height but loved by Lady Gaga who chose them for her Bad Romance video. Endlessly creative and talented, Alexander McQueen was also the creator of “portable” trends, from low-waisted bumster trousers to the skull motif, still the logo for all the brand’s accessories, first reproduced on a scarf that immediately became a must-have for fashion addicts around the world.

Romanticism is, in fact, the underlying theme of the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition; the result of a thorough investigation conducted by Bolton into the work of the designer.

“Love looks not with the eyes but with the mind,” was inscribed into the designer’s right arm. A verse taken from Shakespeare’s Midsummer Night’s Dream which, according to Bolton, reflects, in many ways, the idea McQueen had of fashion, his unconventional sense of beauty and, above all, his romantic spirit.

A great deal of the designer’s history can be understood by the way he made fashion, explains Susannah Frankel, AnOther Magazine’s Fashion Director and The Independent’s Fashion Editor, in her introduction to the book accompanying the exhibition. “[This is] the story of a young man who rose to fame provoking extreme reactions, not only among the public and press but also within the supposedly shockproof fashion industry.” The name, Lee Alexander McQueen, is already a legend.

1. Alexander McQueen Autumn / Winter 2011 Collection 2. Alexander McQueen 3. Autumn / Winter 2008 Collection 4. Alexander McQueen Gallery “Romantic Primitivism” at the MET 5. Autumn / Winter 2006 Collection 6. Autumn / Winter 2011 Collection 7. Autumn / Winter 2011 Collection 8. Spring 2007 “Sarabande Flowers” 9. Alexander McQueen Gallery “Romantic Primitivism” at the MET

McQueen Is Dead! Long Live McQueen!

Perhaps McQueen’s crowning moment came, posthumously, on April 19th 2011 when commoner Catherine Middleton walked down the aisle of Westminster Abbey to marry Prince William, the future King of England. The Duchess of Cambridge’s dress was created under the McQueen banner by his protégé, Sarah Burton, but the bore all the hallmarks of her deceased mentor’s work. Somewhat ironically then, it is likely that, more so than any of the garments he masterminded during his life, that the McQueen worn by the future Queen will become his fashion label’s most iconic creation.

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mARkETPLACE >>> Welcome to the slt marketplace, the go-to guide to the hottest products available locally right now. this time, we offer up a selection of products that will add spice to your ramadan nights and some great gift ideas for the eid holiday that follows.

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10 8

1. Hand-crafted Qatari and Arabic ceremonial swords made and sold exclusively at Al Bidaa Sword Shop in Souq Waqif, Doha. 2, 3. Gilan Contemporary Heritage Collection Ring and pendant, available at Moda Mall, Bahrain. 4. “Honour” by Amouage, now available from the Amouage boutique at Dubai Mall, 51 East at City Centre Doha and Yousuf A Wahab Al Hawaj & Sons at Seef Mall, Bahrain. 5. baccarat limited Edition Red, Gold & Crystal Airdiem Narghile, available from Baccarat in Dubai Mall. 6. loewe Amazona handbag, available in Qatar at NBK and the Loewe boutique at Villaggio Mall; in Saudi Arabia at the Centria Mall in Riyadh and at the Karagulla Building in Beirut, Lebanon. 7, 8. boucheron Ava pendant and Quatre ring, available in Qatar at the Boucheron boutique in Lagoona Mall; in Dubai at Mall of the Emirates and in Lebanon at the Beirut Souks. 9. Roberto Coin Golden Table available at the Roberto Coin Boutique at the Wafi City Mall in Dubai, through Damas in Qatar and Saks Fifth Avenue in Bahrain. 10. mont blanc profile lady Elegance Cabochon Watch, available at Mont Blanc boutiques and Salam Studio & Stores region-wide. 11. Rolf-benz 557 Recliner. Rolf-Benz is now available in Doha exclusively from WAW: Wood Architectural Works on The Pearl Qatar.

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out of the box

Parchettificio Toscano has, for over 40 years, been one of the most recognised names in luxurious Italian flooring. With its new presence in the Middle East under the P.T.E. Qatar banner, this leader of Tuscan industry is set to literally build a new groundwork of class.

>>> The structure for Parchettificio Toscano’s own fame was established way back in the 1950s, when a young Franco Mannucci began to pursue his interest in quality woodworking. Establishing himself as a master craftsman in 1967, he soon set up his business, and by the end of the 1970s had established his own house for creative floor design and production. Today, Franco has passed the running of the business on to his sons, Gabriele and Giuliano and their partners, who have taken the company’s renown to international heights. Parchettificio Toscano’s focus continues to be parquet, boiserie and exceptional wood floorings decorated by marble, precious stones and metal. Catering to all facets of life, from personal homes to government buildings, Parchettificio Toscano has become lauded the world over for its meticulous attention to both detail and beauty in flooring, an element of luxury that is too often overlooked.

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• sur la terre • out of the box •

Alternatively is the San Miniato collection, which is undoubtedly the most precious in the Parchettificio Toscano range. Designed itself into six different substyles - Calimala, Lusitania, Minias, Totila, Aretusa and Nesea - San Miniato shines its spotlight on rare and restored woods with multi-material inserts such as steel, slate, marble, onyx, gold and silver.

Throughout the vast dynamism of its six different collections is a range of styles, from traditional solid wood planks to the prestige of custom made designs and precious materials. In all of them, however, runs the common thread of sophistication and universal beauty.

The swirling, almost Arabesque designs of this collection will pry open the otherwise floorboard boredom of your personal space. However, even if these dreamlike designs somehow fail to arrest you, customisation is limited only by your imagination as every aspect from materials to design can be tailored to your own personal tastes.

In its Pontevecchio line there exists simultaneously the traditional Tuscan craftsmanship associated with the company’s historic reputation, with a modern, clean and enticing sensibility, including the freedom of individualised identity. As they say at the company, “the Pontevecchio collection is like a designer model made to measure for each customer.” Never has flooring been so custom-centred, allowing you to trace the tracks through which your life shall so blissfully trip.

With P.T.E. Qatar, we finally have the best of what Parchettificio Toscano has to offer, and with all of the luxurious options now available here in Doha, it’s a given that you will soon be leaving your guests truly “floored.”

• sur la terre • out of the box •

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beauty

Photographer Fabrizio Nannini Stylist Gloria Storchi and Eleonora Davià

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Plaid, Missoni Home Set of coffee cups, Milla – Bugatti design by Innocenzo Rifin, Lorenzo Ruggieri The advanced texture and the multiple harmonies of LES 4 OMBRES, Chanel Bronzer, Shiseido Blush, Chanel Torrid Blue, Yellow eyeshadow, YSL

• sur la terre • beauty •

Plaid, Missoni Home. Aquasource, Biotherm Radiant Serum, La Mer DayWear lotion, Estee Lauder Face Cream for Mature Skin, Silicum+

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Plaid, Missoni Home Dish with a decoration flower, Ken Scott by Desart Daisy Eau, Marc Jacobs Infusion de Rose, Prada Eternity, Calvin Klein Limited-edition Sakura Cherry Blossom Cologne, Jo Malone

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• sur la terre • beauty •

Plaid, Missoni Home Unique cream to powder blush, YSL Rouge, Armani Phyto-Rouge à Lèvres Hydratant Longue Tenue, Sisley Phyto-Lip Shine, Sisley Blazing Coral, Estee Lauder Gloss Pure Blue Frosty, and volupte Sheer Candy, YSL

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