Sur la Terre Arabia - Fall 2014 by Firefly Communications

n. 34

ARABIA

SLT VOYAGER Our comprehensive city guide to magical Miami

A WORLD OF EXPERIENCE From Sri Lanka’s Tea Trails, to the Edinburgh Festival, enjoy an epicurean adventure with Sur la Terre SUR LA TERRE > ARABIA > ISSUE 34 > FALL 2014

FASHION, STYLE & GOOD DESIGN AW14’s latest looks, BMW’s i8, Katherine Pooley and more…

Travelling leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller. - Ibn Battuta

Editorial No truer word could be spoken about the intrepid team at Sur la Terre Arabia, covering nearly 50,000 miles (49,912 to be precise) to bring you their stories from a plethora of exciting and far-flung locations for this, our travel issue. Deputy Editor, Laura Hamilton, clocked up the most distance, a staggering 17,924 miles, as the crow flies, to destinations as diverse as Bangkok, Edinburgh and Sri Lanka. You can indulge her love of all things tea related, as she explores the plantations of the sub-continent in Horizons on page 60; experience her brief visit to the Edinburgh Festival in Artopia on page 66 and read about how she got all Thai’d up at Bangkok’s Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit hotel in Jetset on page 82. All of that was packed in between conducting insightful interviews with interior design guru, Katherine Pooley, and critically-acclaimed Kuwaiti author, Mia Al-Katib. Meanwhile, regular SLT contributor and doyen of motoring journalism, Kevin Hackett, notched up a hefty 16,649 miles travelling from Dubai to Hollywood to give the game-changing BMW i8 a thrashing. That number, by the way, doesn’t include the miles he undoubtedly devoured when traversing some of the most stunning coastal roads that the USA has to offer behind the wheel of the environmentally-friendly super car. I personally added 15,338 miles to the tally when I boarded Qatar Airways’ inaugural flight directly to Miami. That trip inspired our first SLT Voyager city guide, which is nestled among these pages. This edition is a fairly comprehensive overview of America’s Magic City; covering art, culture, shopping, eating and sleeping, as well as a few ideas about how to fill your time away from the beach. We hope that it will whet your appetite for future SLT Voyager guides to other, equally epicurean, destinations. Of course, luxury doesn’t rest, so neither do we. I have just returned from a 4,066 mile journey to the beautiful Maldives and I’ll soon be back on the road again, literally, with a 6,465 mile round trip to London, where I’ll be putting the new Rolls-Royce Ghost II through its paces. You can look forward to reading about all of that in our next issue. We’ll also be taking to the high-seas from the 11th to the 15th of November as the Official Media Partner of the 2nd Qatar International Boat Show, where we hope to see you all, “ship shape and Bristol fashion.” Until then, though, allow me to cast-off, while wishing you a safe and enjoyable peregrination through our lavish Autumnal offering.

James McCarthy

regional managing Editor

. sur la terre . editor’s letter .

CONTENTS

arabia 22

the list

the scene

f o r y o u r e y e s o n ly

st y le con fidenti a l

gl obe tro t ter

up close

hor izons

Art, culture, lifestyle

Were you seen on the scene?

The things you need to own

A Pinch of New Seasoning

Your guide to global luxury

per son a l

Passionate and talented people

A trip through Sri Lanka's Tea Trails

SLT VOYAGER A Sur la Terre City Guide to Magical Miami

a rt opi a A brief visit to the Edinburgh Festival

. sur la terre . contents .

CONTENTS

arabia

i n mo tion

o u t o f t h e b ox

jetset

tr en ds con fiden ti a l

look book

fa s h i o n

102

m a r k e t p l ac e

The game-changing BMW i8

Former F1 driver, Theirry Boutsen's sky high venture

The Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok

Rainbow Fall

The best of the season's looks for guys & girls

A Love of Country

Products available regionally

. sur la terre . contents .

" T he world is a book , and those who don ' t trav el only read a page ." - St Augustine

the list arts and culture

24 apr 2014 24 apr 2015

23-26

23-29

Qal'at Al Bahrain Through The Ages

10th Al Jazeera Documentary Film Festival

UAE National Traditional Handicrafts Festival

WHEN: 24 April 2014 - 24 April 2015 WHERE: Karbabad, Bahrain WHAT: Art Installation A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005, Qal'at Al Bahrain, or Bahrain Fort, is believed to have stood on the site at the heart of the ancient Dilmun civilisation - in some form or another - for 3,000 years. “Qal'at Al Bahrain Through The Ages” is an interactive art installation project, conceived by French artist Marie-Françoise Rouy and French composer and sound designer Luc Martinez, with Guest Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota, and is designed to bring the history of the fort to life through artistic interpretation. The project, which seeks to enhance the visitors' experience of the Qal'at Al Bahrain site and raise awareness about its historical significance, consists of six engraved-glass steles and three art installations. The steles, placed in the lower courtyard of the fort, introduce the visitors to the history of the site and its historical development, while the three installations, entitled Enki's Well, Madbasa and Threads of Memory, are placed in different rooms of the fort and represent an artistic interpretation of the site using cuttingedge interactive technology. www.moc.gov.bh

oct

WHEN: 23 - 26 October 2014 WHERE: Doha, Qatar WHAT: Film Festival Now in its 10th year, The Al Jazeera Documentary Film Festival was formally inaugurated on April 18th, 2005 by the Chairman of the Board of Directors of “Al Jazeera Network,” HH Sheikh Hamad Bin Thamir Al-Thani. In its first year, the work of 14 Arab countries was included under the theme “Social Programs and News.” Since then, the festival has been opened up to international film makers and they compete for gold, silver and bronze medals in five categories: Long Films, Medium Films, Short Films, New Horizons and Promising Films. The festival will take place at the Ritz-Carlton Doha and will include an exhibition as well as screenings of all of the participating documentaries. www.festival.aljazeera.net

. sur la terre . the list .

oct

WHEN: 23 - 29 October WHERE: Al Ain, UAE WHAT: Craft Festival Taking place in the UAE, deep in the Emirates’ heritage heartland of Al Ain, Souq al Qattara will play host to the National Traditional Handicrafts Festival. Organised by the Abu Dhabi Tourism and Culture Authority, this journey into Khaleeji tradition will feature a number of engaging heritage activities and initiatives, including a crafts souk with traditional products. A complementary public programme will include a kids’ Al Yola dance contest, a craftsmanship competition, preparation of traditional dishes and the making of traditional Arabic coffee, as well as Al Harbiyah, Al Ayyalah, rebaba music, Al Shillah and Al Yola performances. There will also be workshops by handicrafts experts, who will demonstrate the techniques and skills that have been passed down from generation to generation. The festival aims to highlight the importance of traditional craftsmanship in Emirati heritage and support craftsmen’s efforts to preserve, revive and transfer their skills to future generations.  www.tcaabudhabi.ae/en

the list ENTERTAINMENT

23 Oct

21-23 nov

dec

Coco Latté presents DJ Brandon Block

2014 Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix

Emirates Dubai Rugby 7s

WHEN: 23 October WHERE: Doha, Qatar WHAT: Party Night Coco Latté is bringing a Balearic vibe to the Grand Hyatt, Doha with legendary Ibiza disc-spinner, Brandon Block. For one night in October, It’s All About The Music, as revelers will be able to party through the night with disco, funk, house music and dancefloorblazing club classics. There is no better way to kick off a Doha weekend than with a two-hour, two-for-one “happy hour,” free entry for ladies before 11pm and kicking tunes from a world class DJ with more than 20 years of experience in getting the crowd jumping. Tickets will be available on the door. www.cocolatte.net

WHEN: 21 - 23 November WHERE: Abu Dhabi, UAE WHAT: Motorsport Event Oh, the insatiable need for speed... this year’s Formula 1 weekend is set to sell out with 50,000 spectators at the Yas Marina Circuit in Abu Dhabi. Chasing their own glory, the drivers will tear around the circuit in an epic struggle to stand on the podium and be victorious! One of the world’s most technologically advanced circuits, the Grand Prix will kick-off with the Australian V8 Supercar championship and finish two days later with floodlights blazing and the crowd roaring. They’ll also keep you entertained when the racing is finished, with a concert every night, where world-class artists will perform. Previous artists to wow race-goers have included Beyoncé, Kanye West and Paul MacCartney. www.yasmarinacircuit.com

WHEN: 4 - 6 December WHERE: Dubai, UAE WHAT: Sports Event Fancy some rucking good fun? Join 120,000 rugby fans for a great vibe, thrilling rugby action and family fun for fans of all ages at the Emirates Dubai Rugby 7s. The first day sees local and international invitational teams in action, while the second and third host the sixteen international sides as they compete for the Emirates International Trophy in the IRB Sevens World Series. Over 1,750 players are going to take part in this truly epic three-day event, making it a weekend to remember. As usual, the championship will be brought to a close with the traditional “Rugby Rock” concert, where international rock ‘n’ roll stars pop over to Dubai to knock everyone’s socks off. www.dubairugby7s.com

. sur la terre . the list .

4-6

the list Lifestyle

24-25

30 Oct 1 nov -

11-15

IGN Convention 2014

2nd Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience

2nd Qatar International Boat Show

WHEN: 24 - 25 October WHERE: Manama, Bahrain WHAT: Lifestyle Convention Time to get out your inner-geek as the region’s biggest film, video games, technology, and comic convention fast approaches. The IGN Convention in Bahrain will host a number of spectacular activities for enthusiasts as international celebrities mingle with the crowds. Fan-favourite Sci-Fi and Super Hero movies will be screened and there will be interactive Q&A sessions with regional artists. The IGN convention will host workshops on creating manga comics and animations, developing video games and movie making. The Artist Alley will promote local artists and developers who will create and sell directly to their audiences. This is all in addition to amazing comic book and film events, including a cosplay competition, gaming announcements, discussion panels on movies and games, trivia quizzes, comic book stalls and a video game tournament. www.ignconvention.com

WHEN: 30 October - 1 November WHERE: Dubai, UAE WHAT: Fashion Festival Dubai Mall will once again host the newest trends in fashion at the 2nd Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience over an extended three days in October. An unparalleled showcase of the world’s most fashion-forward designers in the Middle East region, the 2nd Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience promises much more excitement this year, with exclusive in-store events by the 300 plus participating outlets, live music and lifestyle activities. A high point of the event will be its focus on serving as a platform for emerging fashion talent from across the world, scouting 20 emerging designers, who will showcase their work throughout the Vogue Fashion Dubai Experience. Eight established international talents, selected by Vogue Italia, will also display their newest collections during the event. www.vogue.it

WHEN: 11 - 15 November WHERE: Doha, Qatar WHAT: Boat Show The 2nd Qatar International Boat Show is sure to set out its stall as a world-class liesure marine event in its sophomore year. Promising to be bigger and better than last year, with more than 40 additional berths and the ability to welcome bigger vessels, QIBS is looking to attract yachting enthusiasts and boat manufacturers from all over the world. The 2014 show will see some of the latest models of aquatic elegance floating in the Mourjan Marina at Qatar’s Losail City, as the world's biggest shipyards make some important global launches and announcements over the course of the week. The keen marine enthusiast can also stock up on jet skis and other boating must-haves at the event too, with a plethora of swanky sea toys on show. As official media partner, Sur la Terre will be Sur la Mer and we can't wait to welcome you aboard. www.qibs2014.com

Oct

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nov

th e scen e

New York Fashion Week —

At the alice + olivia by Stacey Bendet Spring 2015 NYFW Presentation, the VIPs and the elite showed off their fashionista credentials.

Guests including Canadian singer Jessica Lowndes and socialite Langley Fox Hemingway were suitably impressed by up-and-coming designer Stacey Bendet’s Spring 2015 collection. Her designs were inspired by a trip to the Versailles Palace, with a feminine rock ‘n’ roll twist.

. sur la terre . the scene .

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th e scen e

London Fashion Week —

The edgiest fashion show of them all.

—

London’s glitterati, including Daisy Lowes, Alexa Chung and MIA hit the front row of London Fashion Week. It’s hard to tell who has more eyes on them; the models traversing the catwalk or those lucky enough to have warranted a front row seat. Anna Wintour, a Londoner herself, was also in attendance, casting a knowing eye over the precedings.

. sur la terre . the scene .

th e scen e

Stars Sparkle In Chopard At Elton John Charity Bash —

Elton John & Chopard hosted a star-studded party to celebrate the 21st anniversary of the singer’s AIDS foundation.

Sir Elton John and David Furnish opened the doors of their Windsor home for the first ever Woodside “End of Summer” party, held in association with Chopard. This exclusive private event welcomed a stunning array of guests, including a number of celebrities sparkling in Chopard creations, such as Elizabeth Hurley, David Gandy, and Sofia Wellesley. Other guests included James Blunt, Lara Stone, David Walliams, Patrick Cox, Ellie Goulding and Pixie Lott.

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u r eyes o

WELCOME To a world where money is no object and Cool comes at a price. FYEO is A millionaire’s shopping list that gives you an iNSIDE track to the things you need to own.

Stones In Your Shoes>>> “She’s a rich girl, she don’t try to hide it; she’s got diamonds on the soles of her shoes,” sang Paul Simon on his 1986 album, Graceland. That album was a bestseller, and I think it’s fair to say a favourite of British jewellery designer Christopher Michael Shellis, founder of the The House of Borgezie, whose “Eternal Borgezie Diamond Stilettos” are dripping with enough “ice” to make even the captain of the Titanic notice them. Yes, faithful sybarites, boasting more than 30-carats of stones per shoe, these are the most expensive heels on the planet. Crafted from more than 30 individual parts, all hand-formed pieces are painstakingly married together by highly skilled goldsmiths using traditional methods, the shoes are made with

either solid gold or platinum, then encrusted with 2,200 hand-set roundcut diamonds. One of the most innovative design features of the Eternal Borgezie Diamond Stiletto is the removable heart sole and heel. This truly unique feature allows the sole and heel to be easily and quickly removed by the wearer when showing any signs of wear. Spare sets are provided with the stilettos and replacements are available. The shoes are also guaranteed for 1,000 years. Yup, you read that right. An entire Millennium. They are designed to outlast their wearer and be handed down from generation to generation. With a starting price of $187,000, that’s pretty good value.  www.borgezie.com

. sur la terre . for your eyes only .

u r eyes o

Protect & Suave >>> If, like us, you are incredibly important, then you probably require a certain level of personal security. However, the big problem is that the utilitarian look of the Kevlar flak jacket is so “Spring 2011,” while all the fashion bloggers are pointing to a more dapper look this season. Thank goodness, then, for Toronto-based tailors, Garrison Bespoke. No matter what the conditions - rain, shine, 45mm hollow-tip slugs - when ensconced in the fine fabrics of one of its tailored garments, you can feel confident that you will be dressed to suppress, because Garrison Bespoke is now offering the world’s first bulletproof suit. A stylish and discreet alternative to wearing a bulky bulletproof vest, it means that you won’t have to worry about looking awkward during meetings and will be able travel to work feeling comfortable, safe and confident. Garrison Bespoke worked alongside suppliers to America’s Special Forces to develop the custom bulletproof suit. Using nanotechnology, it’s comprised of the same carbon nanotubes designed for deployment in the uniforms of US troops. However, the patented suit material is a lot thinner and more flexible than your regular army fatigues, as well as being 50 percent lighter than Kevlar. The entire suit acts like a shield, with nanotubes in the fabric hardening under force and blocking bullets from penetrating it. To see a video of how effective the the suit is at taking ballistic punishment, visit the Garrison Bespoke website. For complete piece of mind, We here at SLT also recommend you pair it with an accessory such as the Tumi bulletproof briefcase we mentioned back in issue 24. www.garrisonbespoke.com

Bullitt-Proof Shades >>> Once you’re suited up in your bulletproof togs, you need to complete the look with a pair of “don’t mess with me” shades, and they come no cooler than these special edition Persols. As we mentioned in our Icons of Luxury issue last time around, Steve McQueen has gifted his timeless essence to a number of things from cars and bikes to fine watches. Another are these chic sunnies. It was 1968 when McQueen first appeared on set wearing his beloved folding Persol PO 714 SM sungalsses. The film was the super-slick, cool-jazz-stylish The Thomas Crown Affair. It was, arguably, the movie which elevated McQueen to legendary status, and his sunglasses tagged along for the ride. On-set

and in his personal life, McQueen was rarely seen without his Persol 714s. They also appeared in his iconic status-affirming movie, Bullitt and, in 2006, one of his many pairs was auctioned off for $70,000. Pierce Brosnan, who reprised McQueen’s role in the 1999 remake of Thomas Crown, is also a fan of the style, often being seen wearing his McQueen 714s for both work and play. The good news is that this übercool eye candy is once again available to us mere mortals since Persol has decided to celebrate the actor by re-launching his favorite 714s as a special Steve McQueen edition.  www.persol.com

. sur la terre . for your eyes only .

u r eyes o

A Financial Pickle >>> Looking for a little bit of an investment property? Something of a landmark, perhaps? Something set conveniently in the heart of one of the world’s most important financial centres? Then you’re in luck. The iconic Gherkin has just been put up for sale and is expected to fetch around $1.1 billion according to the venerable Financial Times. The 41-floor skyscraper, designed by critically-acclaimed architect, Lord Norman Foster, officially known as 30 St Mary Axe, is currently owned by Londonbased investment bank, Evans Randall, and German real estate group, IVG Immobilien. However, it has since fallen into receivership and the administrators at Delloite have put the globally-recognised landmark up for sale. If you fancy a shot at the title deeds, get online and register your interest on the website below. www.gherkinlondon.com

Rolled Gold >>> There’s an old saying that money can often “burn a hole” in one’s pocket, meaning that the monied classes spend it as quickly as they make it. However, it has never been said that one’s gold does the same. Until now, that is. The Black Tie cigar is the ultimate luxury for your financial sector fat cat, or opulently obsessed oligarch. A fine cigar, which, according to New York-based London Cut, the purveyor of these sybaritic stogies, puffs perfectly and actually ashes 24-carat gold. Using fine Dominican tobacco and created using traditional hand-crafting techniques, the Connecticut shade wrapper of the Black Tie is meticulously rolled in 24-carat edible

gold. The cigar can smoulder away until the golden ash extends to around three inches before needing to be tapped, meaning you can, quite literally, watch yourself burn through gold. Each cigar costs around $500 and comes packaged in a presentation box with a special Black Tie cigar cutter, or you can go the whole distance and buy 20 of these auric bad boys, which come packaged in a glass-topped humidor, for around $4,000. It’s fair to say that it has never been easier to burn through your excess cash... even more so if you use a $100 bill to light it. www.londoncutcigars.com

. sur la terre . for your eyes only .

style confidential

A PINCH OF NEW SEASONING Shake up your autumn wardrobe with fabulous fur, boots galore and a personalised poncho for good measure.

knees up

Saint Laurent

Boots always make a comeback at this time of year, and this season you only need to focus on one thing – the knee-high. Whether flat or heeled, statement or modest, the choice is yours, just make sure they cover your whole calf. Saint Laurent’s black patent pair give a quirky and modish sixties vibe, while Lanvin’s wedged grey suede boots add a bohemian folk feel, especially when teamed with Navajo prints and fringing. For a chic and striking on- or off-duty style, you can’t go wrong with a single colour shift dress and black knee-high boots.

Maison Martin Margiela at Net-A-Porter.com, Lanvin at Net-A-Porter.com, Dune, Gucci at Net-A-Porter.com, Bertie, See by Chloé at Net-A-Porter.com, Dune, Saint Laurent, Hobbs, Moda in Pelle

. sur la terre . style confidential .

THE DEFINITIVE SHOE GUIDE FOR MEN Ever wondered what the difference is between an Oxford and a Derby? Or pondered over when to wear a Brogue or Loafer? Well, we are here to demystify the world of gentlemen’s shoes with a simple step-by-step (pardon the pun) guide to men’s footwear, so that you can show off your newfound sartorial credentials this autumn. While you might not consider your shoe choice as important as your collar or tie, what shoes you wear says a lot about your style. Take it from the man himself, Mr. Christian Louboutin: “A shoe is not only a design, but it’s a part of your body language and the way you walk,” he explains. “The way you’re going to move is quite dictated by your shoes.” There are also some serious do’s and don’ts to acquaint yourself with, so gents, put your feet up and read on.

“Good shoes are important. I wear English brogues in a wide fitting. They last me years.” Photographer, David Bailey

DERBYS

OXFORDS Not just any old lace-up smart shoes, Oxfords are the most formal of dress shoes and characterised by their closed lacing – the lace flaps are stitched closed at the bottom. They can be plain with a toecap or detailed with perforations known as Brogueing. As a rule of thumb, the sleeker the design, the more dressy the shoe. Do: Wear with a suit to the office, a wedding or to an after-dark soiree. Don’t: Wear with jeans. Style choice: John Lobb’s slick black leather Oxfords.

These are similar to Oxfords, but less formal, with an open lace. They have a more rugged appeal and are more of an everyday shoe, suitable for both smart and casual. They come in various colours and styles of leather and material, brogued or not, cap-toed and wing-tipped. Do: Wear with jeans or chinos when your style calls for smart not stuffy. Don’t: Wear with black tie; only with less formal suits. Style choice: Paul Smith soft brown leather Derbys.

MONKSTRAPS Easy to spot, Monkstraps are defined by the buckled strap that replaces the shoelaces. They come with one or two straps (on occasions three) and in a variety of colours, with or without the cap-toe and wingtips. The strap can be functional or not. Do: Wear with sharp tailoring for a striking finish. Don’t: Mismatch your buckles. Make sure your watch and belt buckle match that of the shoe’s. Style choice: John Lobb hand-made, two strap monkstraps.

BROGUES Brogues are simply leather shoes with perforation details – usually an Oxford or Derby style. The more detailed the brogueing, the less formal the shoe. Wingtips are a common brogue detail – the stitched "W" pattern on the top of the shoe. Do: Wear with light tailoring or chinos for a preppy finish. Don’t: Wear with black tie. Style choice: Tod’s brown suede brogues. 

LOAFERS The least formal of the shoe gang, loafers are slip-ons and often feature visible stitching around the toe similar to a moccasin. The sleeker and simpler the design and darker the colour, the more formal the shoe. Do: Wear with jeans or cropped trousers for a cool off-duty style. Don’t: Wear with a suit unless you go tie free. Style choice: Gucci grey brushed leather horsebit loafers.

. sur la terre . style confidential .

All shoes available from MrPorter.com

style confidential

5 things you need this autumn... 1. FABULOUS FAKE FUR

Ralph Lauren

This season you have the perfect excuse to unleash your wild side, as fake fur coats, and pretty much anything fabulous and foxy with fur in the mix, is an autumn must-have. As seen at Paris Fashion Week earlier this year, the wackier and bolder the fur, the better. Forget sophisticated blacks and browns. Instead, cover up with pop furs - think dipdyed, multicoloured, black & white, striped and patched.

slt _arabia

Steal the Parisian street style when it comes to fur this autumn. Colour reigns. slt_ ar ab

ia 3h

3. A MONOGRAMMED SCARF Monogrammed Louis Vuitton bags are so last season now that Burberry has launched its heritage scarf and poncho monogramming service. Join Rosie Huntington-Whitely, Cara Delevingne and Olivia Palermo in wearing your very own personalised poncho or cashmere scarf, or send your little one off to school with his or her very own-initialed mini-me version. The monogramming service is available in store and online from September.

4. THE COPYCAT APP How many times have you wanted to ask a stranger where she got her bag, dress or shoes from but not plucked up the courage? Well now thanks to the ASAP54 app, you can simply take a photo of said item of envy, and the app will search to find the product online and where it is available. So now you can cherry pick your new season wardrobe while on the go, out and about and not miss a new season trick.

High street picks... You needn’t invest in hefty designer price tags but have fun with affordable high street furs. We love this black and white bear of a coat from Marks & Spencer and Topshop’s chunky patchwork fur. For a flattering fit go for a short narrow coat that just about covers your behind.

5. DESIGNER CAPSULE COLLECTIONS

2. A LUXE BIKER A biker jacket is a timeless investment, it nearly always injects casual basics with a keen sartorial edge, and this season’s offerings are more luxe than ever with rich, silky leathers and cool, stylish embellishments. For autumn’s ultimate biker look, a shearling collar. For the girlnext-door approach, team your biker with autumn’s dark florals and folky prints, or for a more stark and androgynous finish, wear one over skinny jeans, coupled with brouges and a buttoned shirt.

Limited edition capsule collections are a great way to add a fresh and unique flair to your new season wardrobe. This autumn sees the launch of Coach’s very first ready-to-wear collection – a 14-piece capsule collection with a distinct Americana feel and downtown cool attitude. We love their shearling messenger bag and jean jacket. Also, don’t miss British designer Alice Temperley’s collaboration with THEOUTNET.COM a limited edition 21-piece collection featuring the designer’s signature print dresses and honeycomb wave knits (available from October 7th). “I wanted to create a collection that is playful and fun, perfect for the modern woman who demands a wardrobe of pieces that can be mixed and matched,” explains Alice. “Whether in New York, holidaying in Ibiza, needing something special for work or for meeting friends at the weekend – the collection offers an item of clothing for all occasions.”

. sur la terre . style confidential .

GLOBETROTTER

Where : TORONTO What : Art Toronto From: 24 to 27 October

www.arttoronto.ca Canada’s only modern and contemporary fine art fair with more than a 100 galleries is a must for modern art aficionados. The city of Toronto makes for the perfect backdrop.

Where: Reykjavik, Iceland What: Iceland Airwaves Music Festival When: 5 - 9 November

Where : FORT LAUDERDALE What: International Boat Show From: 30 October - 3 November

www.showmanagement.com Known for being the "yachting capital of the world," the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show is the place to be for would-be sailors. With every boat you could dream of, this show is a must for those who yearn for the high seas.

www.icelandairwaves.is Since it's birth in an airplane hanger in 1999, Iceland Airwaves has been at the forefront of musical taste. Featuring many Icelandic as well as international bands, you're sure to find that new sound you've been looking for.

Global Gatherings Global Gatherings is your at-a-glance

map of magnificence, directing you to all of the culturally essential, entertaining and luxurious events and happenings that will be taking place across the world (or perhaps, we should say, “sur la terre”) over the coming months.

. sur la terre . globetrotter .

Where: PARIS What: FIAC Contemporary Art Fair From: 23 - 26 October

www.fiac.com This year, the Faire Internationale d'Art will be showcasing upwards of 60 French and international contemporary and emerging artists' works. Taking place at the docks in the centre of Paris, what place could be more perfect to sit and stare at something dreamed up by Marcel Duchamp?

Where: ABU DHABI What: Abu Dhabi Film Festival From: 23 October - 1 November

www.abudhabifilmfestival.ae With a special focus on Arab cinema and featuring some of the most acclaimed talent the international movie industry has to offer, it's no wonder why this is fast becoming Abu Dhabi's most popular cultural event.

Where: The Dubai Mall, Dubai What: The Vogue Fashion Experience From: Oct 30 - Nov 1

Fashion powerhouse, Vogue, will be taking Dubai by storm again with an amazing showcase of the best fashion the Middle-East has to offer. With 300 participating outlets as well as live music and lifestyle activities, it's set to be quite the experience.

Where: PALMA What: Oyster Regatta From: 30 September - 4 October

Jet off to the Palma, Majorca and take part in the Oyster Regatta. A low-key affair held at the Real Club Nautico, situated in the bay of Palma. There's a great views of “La Seu” Palma Cathedral to be had whilst tacking across the bay in a sleek, elegant Oyster yacht.

Where: Chiang Mai, Thailand What: Loi Krathong/Yi Peng , Lantern Festival When: 5 - 7 November

www.chiangmai-alacarte.com Based on the Thai lunar calender, the Loi Krathong Lantern Festival, in which people float elaborate lanterns in rivers, is considered by many to be the prettiest festival in the world. Celebrated during November, to appease the river spirits it coincides with a northern Thai festival called “Yi Peng” in which people release floating lanterns.

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GLOBETROTTER

where in the world . . . SLT endeavours to bring you the hidden gems from around the world. This issue we take visit the beautiful Canadian city of Toronto to discover what inspires nouveau hipster chic...

Nightlife The Hardbord Room Where: Toronto, Canada GPS: 43 ˚ 39' 45.75" N, 79 ˚ 24' 12.24" W Here at SLT, we are bored of superstar nightclubs, with their lists, attitudes, booming sound systems and sickly-sweet drinks. What we want is a bit of sophistication. With wooden panels painted pastel pink and a light green leather bench, it seems these Canadians have really got bar culture right. Known for their relaxed attitude to life, but also being in possession of an eye for detail and a penchant for beauty, the bar scene in Canada's capital is one to be envious of and a more than worthy reason to journey to North America. The Hardbord Rooms is a popular place for the cocktail savvy, with drinks like "Summertime Sadness" with Tromba Blanco Tequila, Green Chartreuse, Grapefruit, Lime, Agave and Egg White and "Brilliant Disguise" with Tromba Blanco Tequila, Strawberry on the menu. Be warned, while they may be delicious, with heavy doses of the Tromba Blanco, these drinks can pack a punch as hard as Tornoto native Kiefer Sutherland's tough, terroristwalloping TV character, Jack Bauer. Oysters and charcuterie are available as bar snacks for those who like a nibble before bed. www.theharbordroom.com

Shopping - Pimlico Designs Where: Toronto, Canada GPS: 43 ˚ 40' 18.28" N, 79 ˚ 25' 15.15" W Ever fallen in love with a beautiful piece of furniture, or some funky new kitchen appliance, only to have it fall apart within a week? Sometimes it doesn't matter how much dosh you part with, it's just not that well designed. It's difficult to find something that fits your personal taste at the best of times, and in our opinion, having a beautiful house means having a happy house. That's why Pimlico Designs puts the emphasis on pieces that are not only aesthetically stunning, but also incredibly well made. We at SLT like our furniture hardy and long lasting, personally, so that we can show it off as long as possible. Pimlico has a showcase of international contemporary designers, so the wares are as eclectic and varied as possible, with only one thing in common; everything is functional as well as innovative. www.pimlicogallery.com

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Hotel - The Ivy at Verity Where: Toronto, Canada GPS: 43 ˚ 39' 12.72" N, 79 ˚ 22' 28.43" W There are times when you want to stay at a glitzy, glamorous, super-hotel. Then again, sometimes you want to avoid the paparazzi, but still be pampered and indulged. If it’s the latter, you want to sojourn at The Ivy at Verity, an intimate boutique in downtown Toronto. A sanctuary in the heart of the vibrant city, this hidden gem is an old fashioned, full serviced European style luxury abode, located in a former chocolate factory from the 1850s. We wonder if it still has the heavenly aroma of the delicious confectionary concoctions of the past? There's only one way to find out. This place isn't Willy Wonka's factory, however, it's far more sophisticated. A perfect place for weddings, or a romantic getaway, the hotel’s balcony looks out onto a 19th century courtyard (an ideal place to propose?). Gorge yourself at the George Restaurant, which specialises in locally produced delicacies, and then treat yourself at the Sweetgrass Spa, for a truly memorable stay. www.theivyatverity.ca

Restaurant - Geraldine Where: Toronto, Canada GPS: 43 ˚ 39' 21.43" N, 79 ˚ 26' 30.09" W Geraldine is an old Germanic name which means mighty with the spear, but Toronto's hippest restaurant is more likely to have you reaching for the spearmint; it's that cool. Is there such a thing as minimalist decadence? Geraldine answers that question, with absinthe coloured walls (a drink which you can, of course,

order) and a smattering of eclectic but no doubt carefully chosen paintings, this intimate restaurant has an old fashioned charm, despite being a fairly new addition to the Toronto culinary scene. The cocktail list feels like an in-joke with libations such as "Nat King Creole" and "Ernest Hemingway Goes Hunting" and it seems that Canadians are so grand that oysters are a bar snack. The restaurant menu is a small affair, promising such delicacies as foie gras torchon, grilled quail and seared duck breast, as well as the freshest seafood; Chef Peter Ramsay’s dedication to fresh and local produce seems to be paying off. www.geraldinetoronto.com

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" I t is better to trav el well than to arri v e ." - Bu ddh a

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The House Whisperer Words: Laura Hamilton Images: Katherine Pooley

Laura Hamilton speaks to Katherine Pooley about her decade-long journey from Hong Kong banker to interior designer mogul.

ow did you get into interior design? I fell into it! My old boss at Morgan Stanley said I’d be perfect as an interior designer. I travel so much, and everywhere I go, I pick up lots of beautiful items. Finally, I decided, that’s it, I’m going to open up a shop. It just so happened that one of my first clients asked me if I designed houses. At that stage I didn’t, but I’d just designed four houses around the world for myself as a property investment, and before I knew it, I was designing interiors. What’s the most important aspect of design? I think things need to be timeless. Everything is so expensive nowadays, so you need to make sure you get good value for money; so value engineering. It has to be very beautiful, but it has to feel like home. Everyone is very different and has different tastes. It has to be what the house tells me it wants. 

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As a career woman, what is the most important thing you’ve learned? I’m never going to stop learning until they put the lid on my coffin - really, you learn everyday. It’s balance. Owning your own business, you have to be good at not only designing, but also marketing, PR, accounting, sales... it’s everything. I have two small kids and a medium-sized business, so I need to make sure I get the balance right. Where do you find your inspiration? Travel. It’s always travel. It’s becoming a smaller world, but it’s a beautiful world, and there are some wonderful things out there. Whether it’s Africa, or the countryside... I’ve just been to Saudi Arabia and I loved it; seeing the traditional craftsmanship was amazing. I always go back to Africa, and Asia has more things to get inspired about. What’s your creative process like? First of all, I have to interview the client, and find out what the client wants. That’s the most important part. You always have to listen to what they want, rather than what they need. Funnily enough, I’ve just done my own house and I didn’t know what I wanted, so I now understand the process from the other side. We do sketches, drawings, choose fabrics, then we put boards together and show the client. It’s a journey. Touch wood, I’ve never had a situation where a client has turned around and said, I hate this. They’ve always loved it. I used to be a head hunter before Morgan Stanley so I think that has helped! One of my Kuwaiti clients has said to me that I’m the only interior designer that she’s met that has the financial banking experience. It’s

helped me be structured, to understand finance and budgets, to be administratively focused and on time with projects. If you think about the stereotypical interior designer, they’re usually very creative and it’s all about the design, rather than the procurement process or the installation. What does your house look like? The one in Scotland is very beautiful. It’s called Forter Castle (fortercastle.com), it’s completely different to my boutique in Qatar obviously this wouldn’t work in Scotland. It’s all about the environment. My father found it in 1988; it was a ruin, and over 300 years old. I then bought it off my father. It’s breathtaking. Do you have a dream house? My husband wants to live by the sea, and I’m the same. Either the sea or the mountains! I love the Hamptons, though. I love that sort of space. A castle is big, but the rooms are small. In London, it’s all mews houses. So I would love to have more space. What’s your connection to the Middle East? I grew up in Bahrain. My mother is still there after 42 years. I met my business partner Nasser Al Ansari in Kuwait and he asked me to come out to Qatar and here we are! There are a lot of people here that love the simplistic look, and there are still people who prefer the traditional aesthetic. I find that there are a lot of Lebanese who are bringing in their craftsmanship. Like everywhere, there is a lot of good taste and bad taste. www.katharinepooley.com

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Inside the Writer’s Mind Words: Laura Hamilton Images: Bloomsbury Qatar Foundation Publishing

sur la terre speaks to one of the nominees of the Edinburgh Book Festival “First Book Award,” writer Mai Al-Nakib , about her work.

ow would you describe your writing career so far, and do you have ambitions you have yet to achieve? My writing life is split down the middle: there’s my academic writing and my fiction. In both cases, there are many things I still want to work on, experiments I want to carry out. I’ve been tinkering with a collection of essays on cultural politics in the Middle East for quite some time, and this is something I hope to complete soon. My focus on academic work—from writing the dissertation, to articles and conference papers, to teaching and supervising theses—no doubt diverted me away from writing fiction, which is something I always assumed I would do. In some ways, my academic work still eats up my time, and it certainly did throughout the writing of The Hidden Light of Objects. At this point, I want to turn to fiction more firmly. There are many things I’d like to attempt with fiction, the novel form in particular, but short stories too. I have ideas and this is the time to do it. I’m just getting started. Which writers influenced you while growing up, and which writers influence you now? I read voraciously as a kid, everything I could get my hands on. The book that opened me up to the idea of writing as something I could do myself was Louise Fitzhugh’s Harriet the Spy. I was ten when I first read it and immediately got myself a notebook and started to write things down—observations, overheard conversations, what I did that day. That turned into a diary habit I kept into my twenties. As a teenager, if I had to name one book, it would be the first volume of Anaïs Nin’s Diary. I read it when I was fourteen. That book was important to me for two reasons: first, because it revealed to me that writing could be made the centre of one’s life; and second, because it demonstrated the value of being adventurous, of taking risks, of living without guilt or regret. Valuable lessons. I’m picking only two books here, which it hurts me to do! As for the present, the writers I return to again and again include: Woolf, Rhys, Beckett, Kafka, Rushdie, Márquez, Proust, Ishiguro, Maso, Djebar,

Kundera, among others. I’m drawn to writers who engage time, chance, memory, fragments, the quotidian—the kinds of things I’m interested in. I tend to read writers who take chances with form and who consider it carefully in relation to their content. Again, I’m leaving so many writers out. Do you find writing a short story to be very different to writing a novel? Are there different rules and challenges? I do think there are differences and these differences demand different approaches. The short story is, by definition, concise in a way the novel is not. On the one hand, the short story is less unwieldy than the novel as a form. There is a built-in limit so everything needs to be more reigned in—the characters, the events, the trajectory (if there is one). This can be difficult; it requires precision and tolerates less imperfection. But it can also be a relief: there’s an end in sight. The novel, on the other hand, has more of a sprawl to it. There is space and time to digress, to go on little adventures. This aspect of the novel is what produces its intimacy with the reader: it gives readers the time to live in the fictional world with the characters, to really get to know them, to miss them when they’re gone. It allows the same thing to happen with the writer, too, to develop an intimacy with the environment and the characters, to inhabit their skin. This does not occur to the same extent with short stories (which is not to say it doesn’t happen at all). However, the length of the novel can make it more difficult to structure and shape. There’s more opportunity for it to get away from you. In short, there are risks to both forms and each have their own particular charms. The response to your book has been so positive – how does it feel? It feels tremendous, and I am incredibly grateful to readers and reviewers who have enjoyed the book and have had such generous things to say about it. When I was writing the short stories in the collection, I didn’t think too much about audience at first. After about the third story, I had a sense that I was writing, at least in part, to a small group of people who came of age in Kuwait 

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around the same time I did. It didn’t affect the way I wrote the stories, but it did give me a sense of excitement to consider how this particular group would respond. Márquez has said that “[i]n the end, all books are written for your friends.” I did not allow myself to think too much beyond that. I certainly had no thought about the book’s wider reception. But there is no doubt in my mind that I write because I want to be read, and not only by my friends. Readers are an indispensable part of the equation, and it is immensely gratifying to know that I have a few who like what I’ve done. Some writers maintain that writing is mostly editing – how much did your work change during the editing process? Editing my writing gives me enormous satisfaction. I’m becoming more and more ruthless with my cuts. With short stories, I edit as I go. That is to say, I write one day and the following day I edit the previous day’s work before picking up where I left off. I edit the story carefully once it’s complete. I leave it alone for a while, then go back and edit it yet again. I have a few readers I trust, and once I feel like I have the story where I want it, I share it with them. Then I edit based on their responses. I write slowly, sentence by sentence (word by word, comma by comma), so the editing does not normally involve a complete overhaul. In the case of The Hidden Light of Objects, once the collection was complete and I put the stories together in the order I wanted them, I revisited the stories again as part of a whole. Although I already considered them part of a whole early in the process, reading them together highlighted aspects I might not have been sufficiently attentive to initially. Before publication, the book went through a final edit with an editor. I worked with Michelle Wallin, who was an ideal reader, both subtle and meticulous. I’m finding that with the novel, my approach is somewhat different. I’m giving myself some breathing room, space to sketch it out first. I still edit as I go (day by day, chapter by chapter), but I’m not quite as ruthless yet. I have no doubt the time for that will come. How did you find the Edinburgh Book Festival? Did you find unexpected readers, and have you discovered new writers? It was my first time at the Edinburgh International Book Festival and I absolutely loved it. It was fantastic to be surrounded by people who love books—eager readers who care about discovering new writers, who are sincerely interested in what they have to say. The festival was superbly organised, and I was happy to be on three panels. I presented my book on a panel about the short story with Tom Barbash, the wonderful author of Stay Up With Me. At the signing, I met a group of women who had read my collection in their book club. Needless to say, I was thrilled about that! I also presented on one of five panels organised by Raja Shehadeh on the experience of living and writing in the Middle East. It was a pleasure to share that discussion with Selma Dabbagh, author of Out of It, and

Middle East Studies scholar and translator Marilyn Booth. It was also an honour to participate in this year’s Amnesty International Imprisoned Writers Series, highlighting the plight of so many writers all over the world. My panel focused on Syria. I’m eager to read a few books I picked up at the Festival bookstore by new authors who, like me, are nominated for the Festival’s First Book Award—in particular Eimear McBride’s A Girl Is A Half-formed Thing, Emma Healey’s Elizabeth Is Missing, and Jessie Burton’s The Miniaturist. I’m currently reading a remarkable book by Lynne Segal called Out of Time. It was a real pleasure to meet her in person and to hear her talk at the Festival. Do you feel it’s reductive to be labelled as a “Kuwaiti” writer, as well as a “female” writer? Like many writers, I don’t like labels. They are limiting and, in fact, leave so much of what’s interesting and important out. Labels facilitate categorisation, which may help sell books, but tends to obfuscate alternative understandings and more singular considerations. I might have more in common with a writer from, say, Iceland than I do with another Kuwaiti female writer, but slapping on the label will make that former similarity more difficult to identify. One of the things literature can do, has always done so well, is cross divisions and traverse borders— geographical, temporal, even linguistic—and labels tend to make that harder to do. At the same time, I do not have a problem being identified as a “Kuwaiti,” “Arab,” or “female” writer if it thickens what those categories can mean. In fact, I do feel affiliated in some ways with other Arab women writers, though that’s certainly not my only affiliation or even my strongest one. But I will always choose flexibility over “fixity,” so labels will never sit too well with me. Do you think that questions about how autobiographical The Hidden Light of Objects are missing the point, or do you welcome them? Reading fiction as autobiography limits what fiction can do. My personal experiences will undoubtedly affect my writing, but that does not mean what I write is reducible to autobiography. Even if parallels exist between a writer’s experiences and the experiences of a character in that writer’s work, if the work is presented as fiction, it is doing something other than attempting to represent the writer’s life. The special function of fiction is to invent worlds, to imagine alternatives to the present, to conjure up eccentric angles, to uncover unlikely connections, among many other fascinating things. If we refuse to allow fiction to move beyond autobiography, we restrict the things fiction can do better than any other literary form. To my mind, that would be a shame. 

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The interlocking stories – was that a conscious decision or an organic growth? A mix of both. By the third or fourth story I began to realise the stories would be linked. Certain images kept recurring, as did specific words, a tone, some of the characters, and, most importantly, the trope of objects. All this gave me a strong sense that the stories were related and made sense together. I began to see them as lines that intersected. The stories aren’t organised in any strict chronological order, though there is a logic to the order. Each can be read independently, but, to me, they resonate and overlap in a way that works best together, contrapuntally, as it were. The first-person vignettes—narrated by Mina, a character who appears in a few of the stories—can be considered the invisible wire holding the collection together. Each vignette is tangentially linked to the story that follows, but they are also connected to each other. Early into the process, I knew I was working on a collection, not individual stories, which is why I did not spend much time sending individual stories out for publication. I wanted to shape the whole and didn’t want the parts getting away from me too early. I was quite surprised at the range and issues you wrote about – were you subject to censorship, whether external or internal, and was there ever a fear of a backlash? I never self-censor and will always write exactly what I want. I can’t see the point of doing otherwise. I don’t think about negative responses either. People’s responses—whether positive or negative—are outside my control. My concern must be my writing and fear plays no part in that. Do you think that writers have an agenda, a secret message to tell the world? Writers often have things of interest to say, and they do so in their own unique ways. Great writers have a particular style, a way of expressing their specific take on the world. I wouldn’t say that all writers have an agenda or message, although some certainly do. In my experience, however, readers tend not to like didacticism and are wary of being

hit over the head with a message. The best books, I think, teach us indirectly, leave us with a perspective on life we had not thought about or encountered before. I like to feel I am not the same person after reading a book that I was when I started it. I suppose the same could be said about writing books as well. I do like the idea of writers having secrets, though; preferably secrets we’ll never know! Can you tell us anything about your upcoming novel? The form is polyphonic. It is set in the Middle East, India, and the United States, from the 1920s to the present. That’s all I feel comfortable saying about it for now. As a teacher, what’s your one piece of advice to improve writing skills, or your one pet peeve? The best advice I can give to students who want to improve their writing skills is to read as widely and as attentively as possible. I don’t believe that reading alone will improve writing skills, as if by osmosis, but it certainly helps. If I have to narrow it down to one, my pet peeve as a professor is convoluted structure in a sentence or an entire essay (a sure sign of convoluted thinking).

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h o r izo n s

Tea Trails Sri Lanka boasts a long history with camellia sinensis, with over a thousand tea plantations on the island. Ceylon Tea Trails plays host to SLT Deputy Editor, Laura Hamilton, for a special “Tea Experience” in the Norwood Plantation. Words: Laura Hamilton Images: Richard Whiston / Tea Trails / Shutterstock

y obsession with tea may be newly founded, but Scotland has a long history with the blessed brew. It was a Scot who first brought the tea leaf to Sri Lanka; in the mid 19th century James Taylor travelled from Glasgow to Ceylon, as it was known then, to work on coffee plantations. It was he who came up with the idea to diversify the crop and soon he was working with Thomas Lipton, of Lipton Tea fame, to export tea all over the world. Of course, he was soon pushed out when the coffee plantations caught a fungus that wiped out their entire crops and every Sri Lankan planter turned to tea, too. His legacy lives on, however, and I met one of his descendants at the Norwood tea plantation, a tea connoisseur by the name of Andrew Taylor (who may be a distant relation of mine!). 

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Old books live in glass cabinets, antiques and vintage photos decorate the walls, the staff are so relaxed about everything, the stress and rush of Gulf living seem like a distant memory. The tea plantation at Norwood is like stepping into the past. As we hopped off the train at Hatton, we began a car ride through the mountains, a serpentine journey up the slope. Even through my motion sickness, I could appreciate the beauty of the mountains. The pure serenity that emanates from the lake at the foot of the valley calmed my stress-addled soul. After being in the Gulf for a few months without reprieve, the sheer verdancy of nature is always a surprise. The tea terraces give a structured look to the land (quite similar to rice paddies), which is covered in tea shrubs that look like bonsai. It smells very refreshing.Â As soon as we stepped from the car and entered the Norwood bungalow, we were treated like honoured guests. Complete with a private

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butler, this was truly the most relaxing and decadent stay in a boutique hotel I’ve ever had. Don’t let the word “bungalow” fool you - there are only two suites in Norwood, giving you the run of the place. We checked into our suite, marveling at the elegance of our four poster bed, the chaise longue, the beautiful porcelain bathroom and the French windows that opened out onto our private garden. We had arrived just in time for breakfast, a threecourse affair which started with eggs benedict and coffee, then were treated to delicious pastries beofre ending with a fruit selection that could have fed a small army, which we hungrily scoffed. The large dining room and living room are open plan, surrounded by windows through which you can see the gardens and beyond that, fields and fields of tea. Sitting drinking coffee in the only building for miles, it felt as if we were the only people in the world. The highly anticipated “Tea Experience” started at the plantation down the road

just after breakfast. We started in a noisy room filled with a peculiar assortment of machinery that would not have looked out of place in a documentary about factories from the Victorian era; it seems that tea manufacturing hasn’t changed a whole lot since it started, but why tinker with a perfect recipe? I will never take a cup of tea for granted again. First of all is the backbreaking labour of picking the tea leaves, and then is the drying process, the roasting process which is incredibly precise and my favourite, the testing. Tea is only ready after it’s been brewed for six minutes precisely (none of the malarky of dangling the tea bag in the cup and drinking it) and after sipping it with a spoon, swishing it around my mouth and waiting for the tingle, I was well on my way to becoming a tea connoisseur. Then, the tea is graded and goes to a tea auction in the capital of Colombo. A tea auction is my idea of heaven. Each tea company, like Twinings

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for example, will taste the tea and bid on it. The tea you drink each morning could come from Norwood. Back at our digs, we had time to explore. The atmosphere in the luxury bungalow is that of the 1950s. Old books live in glass cabinets, antiques and vintage photos decorate the walls, the staff are so relaxed about everything, the stress and rush of Gulf living seem like a distant memory. It was the monsoon season in Sri Lanka in July, and up in the mountains, the clouds drifted overhead ominously, occasionally showering us with a light drizzle, but for the most part, inspiring an ambience that encouraged us to curl up next to the fire. After a late lunch, we decided to climb one of the trails with the aim of kick-starting our metabolism, so we could fit in afternoon tea. A greedy ambition, perhaps, but one that paid off. As we scaled the heights of the hill, the heavens opened. Enjoying the rain, we meandered 

It’s easy to romanticise colonialism and forget the damage that it has done, but the tea industry in Sri Lanka is thriving with over a thousand plantations on the island. around the tea shrubs and did a circle of the estate. For those of us who find Gulf-living claustrophobic, Norwood Estate has many walking trails, some several miles long. There is something to be said for getting back to nature and breathing in the clean oxygen, it makes you feel instantly rejuvenated and healthier.

playing scrabble and listening to songs by the original Rat Pack, I felt as far away from the constant buzz of emails and social media, the heaving traffic and the muggy, dusty air as I have ever been. Especially as I nursed a cup of tea, using leaves picked from the tea bushes outside mere weeks ago.

Relaxing after dinner by the flames (the cool mountain air is surprisingly sharp),

Staying at the Norwood bungalow is like a journey into the past, a simple time of

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simple pleasures, like nature, space and tea. It’s easy to romanticise colonialism and forget the damage that it has done, but the tea industry in Sri Lanka is thriving with over a thousand plantations on the island. Sri Lanka is a popular tourist destination for everyone from the backpacker to the seasoned jetsetter, but the “Tea Experience” really is exceptional. www.teatrails.com

Miami MAGIC sur la terre's city guide to florida's crown jewel

voyag er

For ewor d - 2

Cu ltu r e - 5

24 H o u r s - 6

A bodes - 8

Shoppi ng - 1 0

Epicu r e - 12

F ly i n g - 1 5

A City With A Soul A railway tycoon, a widower and a real estate prospector buy a mangrove swamp...

hile that may sound like the start of some bawdy nineteenth century bar room joke, it is actually the first chapter, albeit quite a simplified version, in the tale of how a few very singular-minded people with a vision laid the foundations upon which the glamorous sundrenched city of Miami is built.

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It’s a city whose name evokes images of wealth and excess. Anyone of a certain age will remember the NBC TV series, Miami Vice. From the art deco title graphic materialising over azure blue water, to bikini-clad beauties strutting along miles of unspoiled beach; cut to a white Ferrari Testarossa cruising down Collins Avenue and you have no greater advert for the glitz of the show’s eponymous locale. Even at its grittiest, the semi-serious buddy-cop drama never failed to frame the city as anything other than a millionaire's playground, where being beautiful was as potent a currency as the fat stacks of greenbacks you needed to live there. For a more contemporary televisual reference, because Dexter doesn’t quite deliver the same aspirational qualities as Miami Vice, for those too young to remember Crockett & Tubbs, the best I can come up with is Kourtney & Kim Take Miami. Sorry. These shows portrayed the city, and rightly so, as a glittering paradise where, if you have the wherewithal (and some serious cash), your dreams can come true. Given the city’s origins, an urban endeavour built on the dreams of a handful of visionaries, this all-pervading air of positivity is completely understandable. “A C i t y B e au t i f u l” Dragonfly Expeditions’ Jim Martin explains that it was Julia Tuttle, a widower with large tracts of land, who first saw the potential of a city near the Miami River. In 1894, she convinced Henry Flagler (with a bag of oranges, as legend would have it) to extend his Florida East Coast Railway from Palm Beach to Biscayne Bay in exchange for a portion of land on which to build the Royal Palm hotel. It earned her the moniker “The Mother of Miami,” as new residents and holiday makers came in their droves to enjoy the clement year-round weather, growing the small town into a metropolis. One of those vacationers, a realtor and automotive entrepreneur named Carl Fisher, saw the potential for development and high-end resort hotels. 

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He funded the completion of a bridge that joined Biscayne Bay to a mangrove covered barrier island just off the coast and, with his real estate prowess, turned it into the exclusive sandy escape we now know as Miami Beach single-handedly creating one of the city, and the world’s, most vibrant, and luxurious lifestyle destinations.

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Luxury was also the watchword when, in 1926, George Merrick’s $10m Biltmore Hotel opened its doors to the monied classes, quickly establishing itself as a social epicentre for the burgeoning town’s high society. Visitors came to enjoy the hotel’s vast pool and the famous Bathing Beauty contests. Today, little remains of those well-attended, salubrious aquatic pastimes of the social elite, but the hotel still remains a staple weekend haunt for the city’s well-to-do, boasting fine food on a stunning Mediterranean-style terrace and beautiful, well preserved, period decor. It wasn’t Merrick’s only triumph, either. The suburb in which the Biltmore holds court is one of the most desirable and expensive neighbourhoods in the whole of the US. As a strong proponent of the “City Beautiful Movement,” a reform philosophy of North American architecture and urban planning that flourished during the turn of the 20th century with the intent of beautifying and adding grandeur to American cities, Merrick created a community centred around large, wide avenues of picturesque, low-rise houses, punctuated only by sculptures and fountains designed to blend in with the uninterrupted, scar-less landscape. Unfortunately, like many visionaries, he wasn’t appreciated during his lifetime. He lost a great deal of power and influence, as did many, during the Great Depression of the 1930s, and his contemporaries turned against him. His Coral Gables experiment, however, has stood the test of time and, as their property values continue to rise, the current residents appreciate his endeavour more than ever. C r e at i v e Co n u r bat i o n While Martin has no doubt that the city he calls home owes a huge debt of gratitude to this handful of prescient pioneers, in the 110 years since Ms. Tuttle’s basket of oranges convinced Flagler to provide the artery that enabled life to flow into Miami, the city has consistently evolved and shifted with the times and continues to spread its urban tendrils into the surrounding everglades.

of symbiosis in the way that once-neglected neighbourhoods are being transformed into modern lifestyle hubs, built upon the principles to which the city as a whole aspires: art, design and luxury consumerism. Miami Design District is one such project and the vision of a Carl Fisheresque entrepreneur who saw opportunity where only ramshackle red brick buildings once stood. Craig Robins started scooping up property in a rundown midtown Miami neighbourhood in the late 1990s. Currently, Robins’ company, Darca, owns most of the buildings in the area and, in partnership with a subsidiary of the behemoth LVMH group, L Real Estate, he plans to develop a game-changing, artistic, luxury retail experience that will become a beacon for fashionistas and aesthetes alike. Public art will adorn the über high-end boutique-lined streets, while tall trees will grow from the building-top roof gardens. Cars will be valet parked, fine food will be prepared in the plethora of cafes and restaurants, while a boutique hotel will share residential space with chic, multi-million dollar condos. When the project is completed in 2016, the Design District will be a status-affirming epicurean utopia. It is undertakings such as these that ensure Miami’s continuing appeal and cements its place as one of the world’s true destination cities. From its monolithic skyscrapers, art deco palaces and wide boulevards, to its pastel-coloured, singlestorey suburbs, if nothing else, it is a wonderfully aesthetic conurbation. But there is so much more to it than the veneer of an attractive sun-soaked idyll; the city has a vibe that grips you from the moment you arrive and it hurts when you have to leave. In little over a century, it has achieved something that it has taken the likes of Rome and London three millennia to develop, and it has as much to do with the principles of its founders as it does with the diversity of its population and its ever-changing modern facade; it’s a city with a soul.

It has been built, demolished and rebuilt again, leaving a wonderful melting pot of cultures living amongst a myriad architectural styles.

He describes Miami as “a city in a constant state of flux.” It has been built, demolished and rebuilt again, leaving a wonderful melting pot of cultures living amongst a myriad architectural styles. Striking art deco edifices seamlessly merge with the post-war musings of the Miami Modernist architectural movement (MiMo), while 1980s designs by Philippe Starke share the skyline with 21st century sentinels of glass and steel, moulded by the likes of Zaha Hadid. Against this backdrop, a languid, artistic temperament engulfs the city, which acts as a crossroads between North and South America as well as a gateway to the lackadaisical pace of the Caribbean. From the Cuban jazz music that dances on the breeze in Little Havana, to the colourful street art of Wynwood, the city sways to its own unique tempo and, as such, has established itself as a global cultural hub. From Design Miami to Art Basel, the city, built on the inventiveness of a quixotic few, has become a Mecca for global creativity. It’s not clear whether the latest bout of urban regeneration is fuelling this influx of artistry, or if it is the other way around, but there is certainly a sense

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a designer destination

panels and lectures with luminaries from the worlds of design, architecture, art and fashion. The show also encourages exciting collaborations and unique commissions between show sponsors like Fendi or Swarovski, and some of the world’s top emerging and established designers and architects, many of which take place during the event’s week-long run.

Design Miami’s public days run between the 3rd and 7th of December 2014. Tickets cost $25 and can be bought at the entrance to the venue each day. Tickets are valid for one day only. Venue and exhibition information can be found at: www.designmiami.com

Design Miami

Art Basel

Design Miami

The event is not just about the exhibits, either. Each year the organisers continue to grow the event’s progressive cultural programming, with leading designers and design institutions chairing

Design Miami

Meanwhile, Design Miami brings together influential collectors, designers, curators and critics from around the world in celebration of design culture and commerce. As well as a creative platform, the event acts as a marketplace for the three-dozen galleries from around the world that exhibit everything from furniture, jewellery, architecture and lighting to collectible objets d’art.

Art Basel

Together, Art Basel in Miami, now in its 12th year, and Design Miami, celebrating its tenth anniversary this December, draw around 100,000 visitors to the city. Over 250 of the world's leading art galleries participate in Art Basel alone, showing work from masters of modern and contemporary art, as well as pieces by newly emerging stars. Paintings, sculptures, drawings, installations, photographs, films and works of the highest quality are displayed in the main exhibition hall, while ambitious artworks and performances become part of the landscape at nearby beaches, Collins Park and SoundScape Park.

A rt Ba s e l / D e s i g n M i a m i 20 1 4 Art Basel 2014 is open to the public between the 4th and the 7th of December. As a visitor, you do not need to register beforehand and tickets can be purchased at the show venues or in advance through the event’s website: www.artbasel.com/en/Miami-Beach

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or design professionals, culture vultures and aesthetes, there really is only one time of year to visit Miami. The first week of December is host to, arguably, one of the USA’s largest creative festivals, as two highly acclaimed events run side-by-side at venues up and down Miami Beach.

Art Basel

over the last decade, miami has established itself as a creative capital. In December, the city plays host to, arguably, America's biggest art & design festival

24 hours in miami Aside from lounging on the golden sands of South Beach, there is lots to see in and around the city. Here are some of the experiences we think you shouldn’t miss.

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24 h o u r s in miami

Little havana Since the 1960s, following Fidel Castro’s revolution, there has been a steady flow of Cuban immigrants to the US, most of whom have made Miami their home. Little Havana is the heart of the Cuban community and is centred around the colourful “Calle Ocho,” or Eighth Street. Domino park is the place where the old boys go to while away their day playing chess, dominos and cards. Don’t be fooled, these games are not a languid pastime, they are taken very seriously, and it’s not unusual to

see heated discussions and a little sporting banter taking place (all in Spanish, of course). We highly recommend a stroll down the Latin American Walk of Fame to one of the many cafés and food outlets. Be sure to try a traditional Cuban sandwich and shot of the local coffee, before stopping into the Cuba Tobacco Co. to watch your premium cigars being hand-rolled by legendary tobacconist Pedro Bello Sr., holder of the prestigious Crystal Leaf Award. 2d

Lunch at the biltmore

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Where better to enjoy your hand-rolled cigar than in the surrounds of the Biltmore Hotel’s courtyard? Take the trip through Coral Gables to this grand old dame of the Miami social scene and embark on an Italian culinary journey at The Fontana restaurant, with its centre fountain and views of the Biltmore’s Mediterranean architecture. The Fontana's Chef Beppe Galazzi uses only local and farm fresh organic ingredients throughout the menu, which also offers a pretty comprehensive beverage list. When you’re done with lunch, take a coffee by the expansive pool or maybe even sneak in a quick round of golf on the hotel’s private course. www.biltmorehotel.com

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The Wynwood Walls After lunch, take a stroll around the colourful and artistic Wynwood neighbourhood, especially The Wynwood Walls art centre. It was conceived by the late Tony Goldman in 2009. He was looking to transform the warehouse district of Wynwood, and he arrived at a simple idea: "Wynwood's large stock of warehouse buildings, all with no windows, would be my giant canvases to bring to them the greatest collection of street art ever seen in one place." Now home to edgy fashion boutiques, independent gallaries and cool hangouts, the district has become a must-visit destination in the city. The Wynwood Walls has grown into a major art statement, with a commitment to graffiti and street art, a genre that the late Mr Goldman believed is underappreciated and not respected historically. Among the artists on show there are Jeff Soto, Kenny Scharf and Shepard Fairey. www.thewynwoodwalls.com

24 h o u r s in miami

cheer with dolphins With the NFL season currently in full swing, we recommend that you try to take in a Miami Dolphins game at the Sun Life Stadium. Founded in 1966, the Miami Dolphins pre-date the modern iteration of the NFL by four years. In 1972, they became the only team in the league’s history to complete a “perfect season,” winning all 14 of its regular-season games, its playoff games, all culminating in a victory at Superbowl VII. The regular season is short, starting in September and ending on December 28th, but there are still five home fixtures left, against the San Diego Chargers on November 2nd; the Buffalo Bills on November 13th; the Baltimore Ravens on December 7th; the Minnesota Vikings on December 21st and the New York Jets on the last day of the regular season. www.miamidolphins.com 7d

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Dragonfly Expeditions can arrange walking and bus tours of Little Havana, Coral Gables and Wynwood. www.dragonflyexpeditions.com

liv through the night Finish your day by soaking up some of Miami’s epic party atmosphere. There is a glut of great lounges, bars and clubs to choose from, either in downtown Miami or the bustling South Beach. While there are always new venues popping up along Collins Avenue, we recommend LIV at the iconic Fontainebleau hotel. Of course, fans of James Bond will recognise the name of the hotel, it being the first place 007 gets one over on Auric Goldfinger, but it was also a regular haunt of Elvis, Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack, who were all spotted at the Fontainbleau in their hedonistic party days. These days, however, Britain’s Prince Harry is a fan, being spotted partying in the club when he visited Miami for his pal’s wedding in May. In the last couple of years, LIV has established itself as the quintessential South Beach nightspot, fusing the appeal of an ultra-exclusive lounge with the vibe of a high-energy party venue. With over 18,000 square feet of lavish decor and some of the world’s top DJs - stellar disc spinners who have taken to the decks in the last month include Calvin Harris and Sander Van Doorn - play everything from hip-hop to house music late into the night. www.livnightclub.com

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SoBe, or not SoBe? That Is The Question...

The Delano

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South Beach boasts the largest collection of Art Deco architecture in the world â&#x20AC;&#x201C; much of it lovingly restored into boutique and lifestyle hotels - meaning there is only one place to stay in Miami: the place locals call "SoBe."

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V i l l a By Ba rto n G 1116 Ocean Drive The former home of Gianni Versace, who bought the property in 1992 and lived there until his death in 1997, has been divided into ten luxuriously-appointed suites, all designed by Versace himself. This elite lodging has become one of the city’s go-to hotels for A-list celebrities and the world’s foremost fashionistas, some of whom just come to pay

S L S H ot e l S o u t h B e ac h 170 1 Co l l i n s Av e n u e This is one of SoBe’s latest additions to the haute hotel scene. Listed by the New Yorker as one of the top ten party hotels in the US, SLS is a creative cocktail of sophistication and playfulness. The hotel is the result of a

collaborative effort between Sam Nazarian, Philippe Starck, Chef José Andrés and rocker, Lenny Kravitz. The building which the SLS now occupies was originally built in 1939 by renowned Miami architect L. Murray Dixon and is one of SoBe’s tallest art deco buildings. This resuscitated iteration comprises 132 original rooms and 10 new luxury bungalow suites, each featuring the whimsical interior designs of Starck. The pick of the SLS, though, is the Penthouse Villa or Tower Penthouse Suite; fit for royalty, these elegant quarters are nothing short of spectacular. It’s a social place, and the gourmet restaurant by Chef Andrés and the Katsuya sushi restaurant are each considered to be among the top eateries in South Beach, while the Hyde nightclub is definitely the place to be seen partying. www.slssouthbeach.com

The Art Deco District is littered with trendy boutique and lifestyle hotels... Built in the 1930s and 1940s to be a whimsical escape.

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The Delano 1 6 8 5 Co l l i n s Av e n u e Often credited with South Beach’s rebirth as a place for the “in-crowd,” the Delano, originally built in 1947, was cleverly restored by hotel guru Ian Schrager and designed with rare imagination by Philippe Starck, re-opening its doors in 1995. It quickly established itself as the epicentre of cool and became internationally renowned for its “white on white” design, its criticallyacclaimed Blue Door restaurant, rooftop spa and celebrity scene. The lobby attracts an eclectic crowd of late-night minglers, as does the communal sushi bar, along with the back lawn and pool area, which pipes in underwater classical music. The hotel features a stunning international collection of furniture and objects, including works from such renowned artists as Antonio Gaudi, Man Ray, Charles & Ray Eames, Salvador Dali and Mark Newson. www.delano-hotel.com

tribute to the expired doyen of design. Those who stay can experience his opulent lifestyle, with the attentions of a personal butler at their disposal and the latest in cutting-edge technology mingling with luxuriant soft furnishing and custom-designed Frette linens. The property’s Il Sole restaurant serves fine continental cuisine inside the pebble-mosaic dining room and offers al fresco dining beside the renowned Thousand Mosaic Pool, which is literally dripping in 24-carat gold. www.thevillabybartong.com

SLS Hotel South Beach

While you can opt for familiarity of the big chain hotels like the St. Regis Bal Harbour or the W South Beach, both of which are excellent, before you pull the trigger on that WOW suite, we encourage you to check out these super luxurious and ultra-chic boutique hotels.

SLS Hotel South Beach

iami offers amazing beach and golf resorts, as well as sophisticated, ultra-highend luxury hotels, but if you’re looking for intimate, fashion-forward and in the thick of things, then South Beach is the place. The Art Deco District, which fills Ocean Drive, James Avenue, Collins Avenue, Washington Avenue and beyond, is littered with trendy boutique and lifestyle hotels. Built in the 1930s and 1940s to be a whimsical escape from the Depression. These lovingly-restored domiciles now court the jet-setting clientele that demand a unique and luxurious experience.

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Buena Vista Spending Club The Design District is set to become the place for luxury shopping

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Christian Louboutin has opened its first men’s store outside Paris in the neighbourhood, and Hermès and Louis Vuitton have based themselves in temporary outlets while they wait for the completion of their multistorey flagship stores, which are set to open next year. Yohji Yamamoto and Fendi also have taken up residence. The list of other current tenants reads like a Paris Fashion Week programme: Cartier, Celine, Dior Homme, Berluti and Prada. They will all be joined by even more haute brands in 2015, not least of which include Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana.

Maria Ruiz, director of community relations at Dacra, the company behind this ambitious project, is keen, however, to play down the importance of the retail aspect. “This is a neighbourhood, it is not a mall,” she notes during a presentation given to the press. “Everything, first and foremost is design-focused.

iami’s latest regeneration project, the Miami Design District, is set to become a shopping paradise for the art-conscious fashionista. Formerly part of the mid-town neighbourhood of Buena Vista, which was built during the 1920s, the Design District lies at the crossroads of many prominent Miami neighbourhoods, with the artsy Wynwood neighbourhood to the south, Little Haiti to the north, and the wealthy Upper East Side to the, um, upper east side.

Pictures: Dacra

Made up primarily of old low-rise warehouses which have been reconverted into retail spaces, art galleries, restaurants and cafés, it has become the city’s hub for the arts, design and fashion. Commercially, though, its the securing of flagship high-luxe retail outlets that will attract the most visitors.

“There will be public art spaces and areas of natural beauty. We’re going to plant 40-foot trees on some of the rooftops,” she adds. The brainchild of Craig Robins and his company, Dacra, the District will be fully LEED-certified and will feature public artworks from the likes of Zaha Hadid and Buckminster Fuller, while Robins has also emplyed the talents of architects like Alison Spear and Sou Fujimoto to help create a stylish nirvana. As well as the high-price-tag retail experience, the neighbourhood will also offer 130 art galleries, creative services, architectural firms, antiques dealers, restaurants and bars. On the second Saturday of each month, the community comes together for Art & Design Night, where Art Galleries and Design Showrooms open their doors to the public for music and refreshments, adding a real sense of community to an area which was once an eyesore of urban decay.

Heavily supported by the LVMH conglomerate, as well as a number of other luxury groups, the district is becoming stiff competition to the more established Bal Harbour shops or Lincoln Road for the A-list’s disposable dollars.

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For nearly half a century, Bal Harbour Shops has been America’s most fashion-forward mall.

t the northern end of Miami Beach is the well-to-do district of Bal Harbour, home to some of the city’s top hotels, such as The St Regis and The ONE Bal Harbour, as well as America’s first all-high-fashion mall, the Bal Harbour Shops. Built and owned by the influential Whitman family, the mall opened in 1965 and remains to this day, one of Miami’s most upscale shopping destinations. An intimate, open air mall, top-name boutiques, over three floors, surround a central courtyard with koi ponds and palm trees. It was the location for a number of high-end fashion houses to not only open their first mall-based stores, but in some cases, their first stores in the US.

Pictures: Bal Harbour Shops

Today, brands such as Chanel, Gucci, Prada, Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta call Bal Harbour their home, as well as some sexy, up-and-coming brands like John Varvatos and Tory Burch. Approaching its 50th anniversary, Bal Harbour remains one of the few familyowned malls in the US, and still has a waiting list for retail space, necessitating an expansion to the third storey, previously reserved for offices. The mall boasts an enviable record in terms of productivity based on sales per square foot and has run at 100 percent occupancy for the last few decades. The expansion will enable it to defend that record against projects like the Design District, allowing for the addition of around 20 new stores. Already those include the mall’s first two-storey boutique, as Salvatore Ferragamo

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Bal Harbour’s Haute Property

brands such as Chanel, Gucci and Prada call Bal Harbour their home, as well as sexy, up-and-coming brands, like John Varvatos and Tory Burch. recently undertook a redesign, while in the next month or so, Bal Harbour will welcome The Webster, Italian jewellery brand, Buccellati, Vince and Dsquared2 to its family. The mall also boasts world-class dining, with the likes of popular modern Japanese concept restaurant, Makoto, the brainchild of Chef Makoto Okuwa. Serving up contemporary and inventive cuisine based on traditional Japanese food, the restaurant is the culinary star of the area and enjoys a full house almost every night. The Texas-based upscale casual dining restaurant, Hillstone, will be joining it in the next couple of months. As well as fashion, jewellery and fine dining, like much of the city, you will also find something for the artistically-minded. Bal Harbour Shops is home to the Miami branch of the Opera Gallery, which GCC-based readers will know from its DIFC address in Dubai. The gallery houses the usual eclectic mix of paintings and sculptures, and mixtures of both, that you will find in other Opera galleries, but with the obvious nod to local tastes and artists, just like in Dubai, London, New York or Hong Kong. The manager, Victor Uphaus, is happy to let you come and get your shot of culture and browse at your leisure, while also being happy to assist with shipping of any items that may catch your eye back home to the GCC.

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Ode To The Sea

One of the biggest gastronomic hits to open in Miami in recent times is La Mar, a South American epicurean adventure for the taste buds. Words: Harry Tanner Pictures: Mandarin Oriental, Miami

ver the past few years, South America has become the destination on everyone’s lips. This is down to a variety of winning components, including the region’s fabulous blend of charisma, culture, a soupçon of chaos – and, of course, cuisine. Peruvian food sits particularly well with me; its bold, powerful flavours have no truck with subtle intricacies, delivering a wallop of flavour that builds to a mesmerising crescendo, and lingers lovingly on the palette. Combine that with the culinary finesse of Peruvian-Japanese “Nikkei” cuisine and rare ingredients from the foothills of the Andes and the Amazon Basin, and I'm a quivering wreck before the first dish is served at La Mar by Aston Acurio at Mandarin Oriental Miami.

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Gaston Acurio is to Lima what Marco Pierre White was to London or Thomas Keller was to California – nothing less than a culinary revolutionary. He dared to question the norms of Peruvian cuisine and use the skills he’d learned in Paris in the kitchens of acclaimed restaurants including La Tour d’Argent and La Grande Cascade, to refine and update Peruvian classics and create his own twists on traditional dishes, embracing the other gastronomic trends that were sweeping through Lima.

La Mar is a spin-off from the original, with a more casual approach to dining that serves a combination of Asian-Peruvian fusion, ceviche and anticuchos (tapas) along with Nuevo Andino (New Andean) fare, in a menu that offers a mixture of sharing plates and hearty main dishes. Today, Lima-born executive chef Diego Oka, who worked with Acurio in Peru before taking up posts at his restaurants in Mexico City, Colombia and San Francisco and then launching La Mar in Miami, has put together a lunch menu highlighting some of his signature items. There are modern twists on familiar dishes like Quinoa Caprese and Arroz con Mariscos (rice with seafood); Asian-Peruvian specialties like Cebiche Nikei (a Japanese take on Peru’s national dish of marinated raw fish) and a demonstration of New Andean cuisine in the form of Paiche Chorrillana; an indigenous Amazonian fish. The first two appetisers demonstrate how a familiar dish can be transformed with the addition of a few new ingredients. A rustic-looking Quinoa Caprese sounds familiar enough: huge slices of heirloom tomato and hunks of buratta cheese, dusted with red quinoa and basil. But it’s the aji amarillo vinaigrette that brings it to life, injecting a fiery, tangy flavour that adds oomph to an Italian staple and delight to the faces of my dining companions. La Mar’s Causa Cangrejo gives a flamboyant, colourful salute to a traditional Peruvian dish. The crab and potato dumpling has been given a 21st century twist, with light, flavoursome crabmeat served over a pile of creamy avocado on a croquette of potato, dyed bright pink with 

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A former punk-rock musician and the son of a prominent politician, Acurio was an unlikely candidate for the role of culinary rebel, but that’s exactly what he became when he returned from France with his wife Astrid, borrowed some money and opened Astrid Y Gaston in Lima in 1994, fundamentally changing Peru’s culinary landscape forever. What started off as a family-run dining room serving classical French cuisine is now the flagship of a business empire that includes restaurants throughout the Americas, and holds the number 18 position in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants – number two in Latin America.

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beetroot juice. Everything is drizzled with a touch of slightly spicy huancaina sauce and there are dainty segments of quail’s egg on the side, all presented on a platter that resembles a Spanish galleon. It’s a joy to behold, although the sum of so many soft ingredients gives it a rather mushy, indistinct texture. Nevertheless, the flavour is profoundly good, and I’m told by other more experienced causa connoisseurs on the table that this is as good as it gets.

everything’s a little bit different here; a little bit cooler. By the time main courses arrive, I’m already won over; intoxicated by the bright and brilliant menu. The Arroz con Mariscos comprises ají panca fried rice with shrimp, mussels, octopus, calamari and criolla sauce. It’s traditional Peruvian food done exceptionally well; the kind of thing you might be served in any number of restaurants around Latin America, albeit with slightly more expensive ingredients.

But the best of the appetiser trio is yet to come.

But the essence of New Andean cuisine comes together in the final dish. The eponymous Paiche chorrillana is a large, meaty freshwater fish found in the Amazon basin that can grow to more than two metres long. It’s fleshy meat separates easily when you take the fork to it, allowing the delighted diner to enjoy huge chunks of surprisingly light meat, flavoured wonderfully with tamarind “chorrillana” sauce and piled on a hearty serving of mashed yucca with delicate flakes of smoked bacon. If this is what the Amazon tastes like, sign me up for the next departure.

Ceviche is the cornerstone of Peruvian cuisine, and good ceviche is worth travelling a long way for. The silky smooth Cebiche Nikei served at La Mar bursts with flavours at once sweet, fresh and brilliantly tart thanks to the excellent leche de tigre – fresh lime juice and aji limo (another of Peru’s most prolific chillies) – spiked with tamarind. Slices of red onion add a crunchy texture to the soft, plump morsel of fresh tuna. The “Nikei” element of this otherwise typically Peruvian dish comes from daikon (Japanese radish) and small strips of nori (seaweed), which are sufficient to add the dish to the Pantheon of new Asian-Peruvian fare without affecting the essence of the ceviche. I would return to Miami in a heartbeat for another helping of this indulgent incarnation of a dish that is arguably the greatest of Peru’s culinary heritage. During a pause between courses, there’s time for a look around. The informal design and layout of La Mar reflects the casual dining menu. The large indoor space has separate ceviche and anticucho bars, both of which open up onto the restaurant, making the chefs part of the dining experience. Even at 3pm on a Thursday afternoon, when the lunchtime rush (a mix of hotel guests and businessmen from the neighbouring Brickell business district) has died down, there is a pleasant buzz in the airy restaurant. Inside, La Mar is decorated in dark woods and aquamarine tiles reminiscent of fish scales, along with other artistic touches like a plant wall, and light fixtures that look like fishing nets. The broad outside terrace overlooking the CBD and Biscayne Bay must be atmospheric at night, but during the day it boasts one of the best views in Miami. This informal design and the “casual fine dining” menu is perhaps not what you’d expect from a Mandarin Oriental – a brand with a reputation for high-end, Michelin-starred restaurants – but this is Miami, and

Desserts, though superfluous by now, are Key Lime Pie – a classic Miami dish enlivened with delicious chichi morada (a zingy corn and spice-based purple sauce) – and a Peruvian chocolate-covered popsicle made from lucuma (a mango-like fruit from the Andes) sprinkled with cocoa nibs. It is whimsical and wonderful; a final hurrah to Andean ingredients and creative culinary design. And that is the takeaway message from La Mar: from traditional dishes to Nuevo Andean cuisine, Peru is a garden state with such variety in its fertile lands that there is no excuse for any shortage of flavour. Living proof that casual dining does not mean a casual approach to cooking or ingredients, La Mar delivers a flavoursome flash of Peruvian cuisine to this, the most Latin of US cities.

co n tac t La Mar by Gaston Acurio 500 Brickell Key Dr, Miami, FL 33131, United States Book: +1 305 913 8358 Mail: momia-restaurants@mohg.com www.mandarinoriental.com

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mile high health club Qatar Airways now flies directly to Miami four times a week and Sur la Terre was lucky enough to be invited by the airline to visit the city on its inaugural flight from Doha’s new Hamad International Airport.

owever, despite lounging in five-star luxury at the front of a Boeing 777, the journey was still a gruelling 15 and a half hours. Then, once we arrived, the first few days of the trip were spent battling with crippling jetlag. To give you the best possible start to your Miami adventure, SLT sought the advice of BE.FIT Qatar’s Mark Paterson, a personal trainer and nutritionist, about the best preventative methods you can employ to hit the ground running:

Fortunately, you can help yourself in avoiding, or minimising, some of the body trauma associated with flying for long periods, through proper nutrition and simple exercises, including how you feel afterwards, alleviating the effects of Jet lag. Alcohol and caffeine are major factors to consider when flying. Consumed at altitude, both alcohol and caffeine dehydrates you quicker than normal, causing headaches and nausea and a lack of energy. Alcohol will also give you a more potent hangover after being consumed on-board. Avoid this by keeping yourself properly hydrated whilst flying. I would recommend drinking at least two cups of water per hour of your flight and limiting consumption of tea, coffee and alcohol. Where food is concerned, I recommend steering clear of salty crisps and nuts, as these can affect the salt balance within your blood and increases the chances of bloating around the lower limbs and hands. Look to consume protein-rich foods and limit carbohydrate consumption, as these tend to make you feel sleepy and somewhat drowsy. Ideally, a meal on-board should consist of protein-rich meats, wholegrains for fibre, fruits

- including dried fruits - and vegetables, all of which provide sustained energy and keep the digestive system in order.

in a smooth circular motion, this can also be done in reverse. Repeat the motion 10-20 times.

To combat bloating, swelling and pressure in your lower limbs, remove tight footwear for the duration of the flight. It will help to make you feel more comfortable.

• Knee To Chest: Bend forward slightly, fold your hands together around your right knee and pull it towards your chest. Hold this position for approximately 15-20 seconds. Repeat on the left knee.

Exercising on-board can be a very simple and effective way to limit the effects of flying, both physically and mentally. Here are some easy tips for travellers of all ages on all flights, not only long haul journeys, to follow that will ensure a perfect landing every time: • Walk around the cabin every 15-30 minutes if possible, moving your legs and upper body as much as you can. • Ankle Turns: Lift your feet off the floor, moving your toes and foot in a clockwise/anti-clockwise direction. Repeat and change direction several times. • Foot Lifts: Place your heels on the floor, bringing your toes up as high as you can. Then put both feet back flat on the floor, pulling your heels up whilst keeping the balls of your feet on the floor. Repeat several times. • Knee Lifts: Whilst keeping the knee bent, raise your leg while tensing the thigh muscle. Repeat the movement 10-20 times, alternating legs. • Shoulder Rolls: Raise your shoulders, moving them forward, downwards and backwards

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• Arm Circles: Start with your elbows on the armrests and hands pointing upwards, then take in turn to rotate your arms inwards and outwards in a circular motion. Repeat on each arm 10-15 times. • Upper Body Stretch: Stretch both hands overhead. Using your right hand, grab your left wrist and stretch it slowly to the right. Hold for 15-20 seconds and repeat several times each side. • Neck Roll: Relax your shoulders and let your head drop to your right shoulder, then allow your head to slowly roll to the front, then to your left shoulder. From there, lean the head back and roll back towards the right shoulder. Repeat this both ways 5-8 times per side.

Mark Paterson is a personal trainer and sports nutritionist at BE.FIT Qatar. For personal appointments or more information, contact him at befitqatar@gmail.com

Flyi n g

Straighten Up & Fly Right While flying can be a very frequent part of life and business for a lot of residents in the Middle East, especially long haul flights to other continents, it can potentially be bad for your health. Concerns about Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT), a potentially life threatening disorder in which blood clots form in the deep veins of the body, particularly the legs, are usually attributed to long haul flights. Other health concerns to be aware of whilst flying long haul are irritability and anxiousness; feeling faint; bloating and swelling around lower limbs, ankles and hands; dehydration; headaches and indigestion.

- Editorial James McCarthy Harry Tanner Mark Paterson - Art & Design Helen Louise Carter

With thanks to: Qatar Airways Greater Miami Visitors & Convention Bureau

A rto pi a

A clip of the fringe Edinburgh native Laura Hamilton pays a brief visit to the city's eponymous festival.

Set up by my great-uncle in the 1950s, The Edinburgh Festival is something of an institution. The biggest festival in the world, it is a festival of everything. There’s the Edinburgh Book Festival, where international novelists and writers share their inspirations; the Fringe Festival, where comedians come to get spotted; and roving operas and dance troupes delight the huge crowds that come to take in the culture in what has been referred to as the Athens of the North. The whole town erupts with colour in August. People flood in from all over the world, and the price of everything skyrockets. Actors, comedians, dancers and general eccentrics can be seen wandering around in full costume. It’s not unusual to see “death” skulking around Edinburgh’s many cemeteries at night, complete with scythe; just slightly unnerving. There are thousands of shows on, everything from big name orchestras on huge stages to amateurs performing in a cupboard. It’s a strange mix of the majestic, wonderful, creepy and talentless. This year’s festival was a rather mixed bag. Big name stars like BJ Novak, known for his roles on the American version of The Office, Quentin Tarantino films and being Mindy Kaling’s soup snake, are often drawn to the Fringe. It’s a tough gig, though, as we seasoned festival hacks are very comedy savvy. It’s sad to say, but BJ Novak has been ill-named. It should be

BJ Nojokes. Resting on his laurels, the Harvard education film star and comedian simply read short stories from his book, a mildly amusing venture which raised a few laughs, but all-inall, was rather tame. How disappointing that he took the safe route, and that he didn’t use this chance to either woo a new set of fans or try something new and bold. One of the surprises of the festival was Joe Bor. We took a gamble at the Free Fringe, and with low expectations and a heavy wallet, I sat down for an hour to watch the Londoner. Having seen him once before a few years ago, I was surprised that he hasn’t made it yet, in the conventional sense. His set was solid, his comedy persona charming, yet self deprecating and his audience interaction was confident and self-assured, without bullying the hecklers. Another comedian to watch out for is David O’Doherty. Sporadically seen on British TV, the Dubliner’s whimsical charm and truly amateurish skills on a mini keyboard make him a must-see. His inept Irish rage against technology and the foibles of human nature see him lying on the ground in frustration, while the audience laughs and wonders if they are witnessing a nervous breakdown. It was the Free Fringe that actually produced the most talent. I wasted an hour, trapped in a small, claustrophobic room with a crazed

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The vestibule at the National Portrait Gallery. The grand lobby of the Balmoral hotel and Street performers entertaining on the Royal Mile

The Free Fringe... Reinforces the idea that All Humans are creative. When forced from our of our comfort zones and onto a stage for an hour, we can all create a strange and magical show.

old man ranting about the medical industry and I also saw some terrible shows. It was, however, those which I paid nothing to see at the Free Fringe, put on by an eclectic range of people (A Pint and Two Halves being the best), that reinforced the idea that all humans are creative. When forced from our of our comfort zones and onto a stage for an hour, we can all create a strange and magical show; or induce the audience into cringing and trying to hide in their coat in second-hand embarrassment. For the more artistically minded, there is plenty of culture in Edinburgh and the National Galleries on Princes Street are full of the best of Scottish and international art. I would, however, recommend a visit to the National Portrait Gallery. A Victorian building that

calls to mind the Victoria & Albert Museum, forget the art and just admire the interior! That’s not to say that the exhibitions it holds aren’t equally fascinating. Currently an exhibit on John Ruskin, the 19th century art critic and painter, who has gone down in history as holding some slightly naive views when it comes to the fairer sex, is showing. John Ruskin: Artist and Observer is no less intriguing than his personal life. Also considering a film about Ruskin is due to hit the silver screen soon, it’s worth taking a look at his art. W h e r e to S tay: If you do not happen to have access to a mews house in the New Town complete with its own staff (aka: parents), and the idea of renting one to partake in the real Edinburgh experience,

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there are several acceptable hotels in the vicinity. The Balmoral, for example, through which auspicious doors many prestigious personages have walked, is a fine example of five-star Scottish hospitailty. So much so, apparently, that it allowed JK Rowling to commit an act of graffiti to commemorate finishing her yarns about the boy wizard. The Caledonian Waldorf Astoria is at the other end of Princes’ Street and I can confirm that its high tea is delicious. The hotel is considered in equally high standing as that of The Balmoral, despite the fact that Ms. Rowling has not defaced any part of it (yet).

" W e wander for distraction , but we trav el for fulfillment." - Hi l l a i r e B e l o c

i n m oti o n

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Something, Kevin Hackett gets the Hollywood

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That i8!

treatment in the BMW i8 and discovers the future of the Supercar. ď&#x201A;&#x201E; Words: Kevin Hackett Pictures: BMW

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"The message from BMW here is loud and clear: efficiency is the order of the day â&#x20AC;&#x201C; go clean or go home."

. sur la terre . in motion .

MW rarely, if ever, puts a foot wrong. Every year the company unveils outrageous profits and the reason is simple: it designs and builds cars that people love to own and drive, for all manner of reasons. And even if you’re not sold on the styling of certain models when they’re unveiled, you probably will be before you know it. The X5, X6 and new X4 are good examples of how, when an all-new Bimmer is launched and we can’t possibly see it ever selling in healthy numbers, the company appears to have its finger on the collective pulse of car buyers everywhere. BMW takes carefully calculated risks. Yet, the company’s new “i” sub-brand could well be BMW’s biggest gamble yet. In a little under a year, the company has launched two models: the diminutive, all-electric i3 city car (with a small petrol engine “range extender” inside) and the car you see here, the incredible, groundbreaking and trailblazing i8 supercar – both cars built using the most environmentally aware methods available today. This is uncharted territory, not just for BMW but for the car industry in its entirety. The i8, claims BMW, represents the future of the performance car – and the company has been spending tens of millions of dollars making sure it can steal a march on the competition, even building an entire new factory in Leipzig and a plant for carbon fibre production in Washington, USA. Nobody has done this before but, years from now, we’ll be talking about how BMW captured the eco-sports car zeitgeist and how it tapped into a market populated by those fascinated by new tech. Because, if you buy an i8, you get yourself a veritable science laboratory on wheels; only this isn’t unproved technology – it’s simply technology that works and that no other car manufacturer is offering to the masses. BMW calls it a supercar and certainly the basics are there. It has a twinturbocharged engine that’s mounted amidships; it has perfect 50:50 weight distribution; it will reach 100km/h from rest in just 4.4 seconds; it looks like something from a Dan Dare comic and its doors open outward and upwards, just like those of a McLaren. It has almost no luggage space whatsoever (there’s still a bespoke Louis Vuitton luggage set available, though – fashioned from carbon fibre…) and, while it does come with two rear seats, you’d need to be either a two-year old or an amputee to comfortably fit in them. It also has a striking body constructed from carbon fibre and composites, making it incredibly light and stiff. It’s all extremely sexy, exciting stuff. However, there are a number of things about the i8 that would ordinarily deny it supercar status. Its engine is basically the same as the one Mini fits in the new Cooper (and no, it isn’t even the Cooper S), which means it is a 1.5-litre, turbocharged three-cylinder unit. Yes, this supercar has half the cylinder quota of most BMW 3 Series. It has skinny tyres, no visible exhaust pipes and, when you start it, it’s silent and remains so as you start to move. Then, too, consider that it’s entirely capable of

returning fuel economy to the tune of 2.1-litres for every 100 kilometres driven and, if you only ever use it for shortish commuting to and from the office (a maximum of 37 kilometres per day), your tank of fuel would probably last forever. The i8’s hybrid powertrain is easily the most impressive that I’ve yet seen. In essence, the tiny engine is supplemented by an electric motor, which comes on stream as and when the car’s on-board computers decide it’s required, working in conjunction with the driving mode you personally select. For example, for ultimate performance, you can choose for everything to work together at the same time, or you can simply cruise around in all-electric mode. No matter what mode you’re in, the car has its torque instantly on tap – that’s the beauty of electro-motive force. With the engine powering the rear wheels and the motor turning the fronts, it’s effectively four-wheel drive when you’re really gunning it, too. In the Gulf, the i8 is going to sell on its looks alone, but if you do have an environmental conscience, you can keep the car’s batteries brimmed by charging it with what BMW calls its “i Wallbox Pure” or “Pro” (the overuse of the lowercase letter “i” is almost enough to suspect Apple involvement). These charging stations can be mounted on your house or garage wall and are quite funky to look at. But, crucially, they also charge the i8 much faster than would be possible with the standard charging cable. With either of these charging stations, you can replenish 80 per cent of the car’s battery power in less than two hours. The batteries are also, as one would expect, topped up when the petrol engine is running but with the potential abundance of solar generated power in this part of the world, there are bound to be owners tempted to use it as only an electric car, with the engine being there as a back-up to negate any possible “range anxiety.” Either way, the message from BMW here is loud and clear: efficiency is the order of the day – go clean or go home. It’s impossible to overstate the lengths BMW has gone to in order to make everything work just so; to make the i8 feel and work like any other BMW and the way the car shifts between these different power sources is hugely impressive. There’s nothing jarring or uncouth about it; rather it seamlessly goes about its business maximising either efficiency or performance, depending on what you want. And there’s plenty of both on offer here. My first drive takes place in Malibu, where a car only turns heads if it’s truly stunning, and the i8 proves to be a massive draw to people surrounded by the great and the good. The elderly stop, stare and point, joggers collide with lampposts, women shout “that’s pritteeeeee” in appreciation and a thousand phones are pointed in its direction to capture the moment of its passing for posterity. Only supercars can do this – things are looking up. 

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It’s easy to see why everyone is so taken with the i8 and, truth be told, it looks better in person than in any photograph. It has all the visual characteristics of a desirable sports car, with a long wheelbase, short overhangs and a mean, solid stance. The nose appears extremely low and wide but this isn’t simply to make it look aggressive because everything with this car is designed to be optimally aerodynamic. At the sharp end, a prominent double kidney grille tells us this is a BMW, even though there’s no radiator behind it, and a V-shaped “black belt” starts on the bonnet, leading the eye and the rushing air around the body to the rear via a rollercoaster of curves. Viewed from either side, there is an exaggerated wedge shape and long, drawn-out lines that shout “performance” and all the surfaces join together in a cohesive whole that lends it a truly unique appearance. And before you start thinking some aspects of its design are rather contrived or unnecessary, they’re not. Every curve, crease, channel, dip, bump or flat expanse has been designed that way for a reason: maximisation of efficiency, which has resulted in a drag coefficient of just 0.26 – something else highly appreciated by the Californian populace who have taken to hybrids like no one else. Getting into the i8 isn’t a particularly glamorous affair. With the “dihedral” doors swung up (do allow plenty of room for this, as they need 552 millimetres of space to open outward and upwards), you enter posterior first. Once your bottom is in place, you bring your legs up and over the wide sills, and you’re good to go. It takes a couple of tries to perfect it, but it’s the only way, without contorting and ending up on a chiropractor’s bench. Pull down the door and you’re surrounded by a beautifully appointed interior, slightly reminiscent of the 6 Series, but much cleaner in design, where cool blue light bathes the sculpted surfaces. An analogue power indicator within the driver’s main instrument binnacle displays electric power inputs and outputs, as well as showing what’s left in reserve. It’s all very elegant and intuitive but, after the future shock visuals outside, it’s perhaps a little unimaginative and BMW has missed a trick, I reckon, by not radically changing the concept of car interiors while it had the chance – perhaps that risk was calculated as not worth taking.

"Pull down the door and you’re surrounded by a beautifully appointed interior, slightly reminiscent of the 6 Series, but much cleaner in design, where cool blue light bathes the sculpted surfaces."

Starting the i8 is an exercise in zero aural drama. With the instrumentation telling you you’re in “Drive,” that’s all there is to it – no blare of quad exhausts, not even any rev-counter action – and, as you ease away from wherever it was you were parked, all you can hear is the clatter of underbody mechanicals that are normally drowned out by the sound of an engine. Silent electric propulsion soon gives way to a pleasing rush as the air passes over the cabin, however, lending it an appealing jet fighter vibe. Sink the throttle and there’s an uninterrupted burst of acceleration as the i8 gains speed at an alarming rate, with the engine joining in whenever you’re in danger of flattening the batteries. And that engine, despite its specification, sounds utterly terrific – gruff and raucous, like a proper sports car should. The engine noise is channeled into the cabin via the car’s speakers but while the soundtrack is contrived, what could never be faked is the way that this car moves when you keep the throttle nailed. Its performance is (sorry about this) electrifying. Unstoppable torque thrusts the car with tremendous force, with or without the engine. It’s incredibly quick, especially on the canyon switchbacks, and feels boundless in its energy. Try as I might, I cannot find a chink in the i8’s impressive armour and I just want to keep on driving and driving, seeking out its flaws (they must be there somewhere, surely?), exploring its depths and plumbing its reserves of character and sheer intelligence of design. It’s not a car that bores you; on the contrary it’s such a uniquely entertaining steer that BMW’s age-old “Ultimate Driving Machine” advertising slogan is entirely appropriate. But find a chink I inevitably do and it’s nothing to do with the way the i8 goes in a straight line. The twisting roads that snake through the hills above the California coastline expose the car’s narrow tyres (less rolling

resistance equals greater efficiency) as an area for improvement. They don’t take long to start squealing in protest and understeer is prevalent. Steering on the throttle, performing doughnuts or tyre-smoking drifts is out of the question because, well, they’re not the most efficient way to drive, are they? This is, in light of the quantum leap the rest of the i8 represents, merely nitpicking because right here and right now, it really does feel like the future of the performance car. It’s not perfect – its handling prowess isn’t quite the match for a 911 or F-Type – but it’s almost there and I don’t doubt for a second that BMW is listening to critics and customers alike, already planning for its next generation. If the i8 right now is anything to go by, it could completely alter the supercar forever. It’s a game changer in every respect.

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o ut o f th e box

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the sky's The Limit Words: Richard Whitehead Pictures: Boutsen Aviation / Getty

He is oft-remembered for his adrenalineinducing duel with Ayrton Senna from behind the wheel of a WilliamsRenault at the 1990 Hungarian Grand Prix, but these days, former F1 driver, Thierry Boutsen , gets his kicks closing multi-million dollar deals. With the regional market for private jets hitting triple figures in the last five years, his latest venture, Monaco-based Boutsen Aviation, is looking to catch the updraft of a lucrative market trend here in the GCC. He chats to SLT about his days behind the wheel, modern F1 and how his eponymous business is taking flight.

here were suggestions that, as a driver, you lacked the ruthless streak that might have taken you to more F1 wins. Now you are in high-level business, have you discovered that hardness that might have been lacking in the past?Â

It may have looked so because I never had the most competitive car. But if you look closely at my results, most of the time I have beaten my teammates, whoever they were. So, I don't think that I lacked a ruthless streak, I just had no opportunity. This suggestion may also have come from the fact that I have a quiet character, outside the car, but in the car it was not the same!

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Thierry Boutsen fends off the attentions of Ayrton Senna to claim a famous victory for Willaims-Renault at the Hungarian Grand Prix in 1990.

"In my early days in F1, we did not have computers. the car was hand-designed by the engineer and the driver was a key element for the development of the car." What has your experience of driving for top teams when they were running underperforming cars taught you about acquiring complex machines, like private aircraft? Driving and flying have some similarities: speed, noise, danger… but also some big divergences, like flight preparation, situation awareness and anticipation. In a plane you have time to react if anything goes wrong, in an F1 car you have milliseconds to make decisions that could be life-threatening. You drove at a time when the safety levels in cars and around tracks is terrifying to think about. At the same time, the sophistication of technology used nowadays is quite breathtaking and allows incredible performance and handling. What do drivers of a different era think about modern F1? How would today’s cars and competitors suit your style of driving? Like everything in our modern life, technology has taken over human capacities. In my early days in F1, we did not have computers. The car was hand-designed by the engineer and the driver was a key element for the development of the car. I studied mechanical engineering, and I think that the capabilities I had as a result allowed me to have a better dialogue with the engineers. More than once, I progressed an almost un-drivable car to a potential "rostrum-car:" Arrows in 1985, Benetton in 1987, Williams FW13 (I hardly qualified in Jerez, then won in Australia 4 races later). You were known as a keen pilot, and now you own an aviation brokerage. In light of this, and the fact you drove in F1 for a living, could you imagine what it would be like to work a job that is not also your hobby? And why did you not stick to roles in motorsport, as so many others have done? I must say that I really wanted to change horizons. In motorsport, you are in a very small microcosm, you meet the same people all the time, talk about the same subject, continuously answer the same questions from journalists and sponsors, but as long as you enjoy driving and accept the physical risk of getting hurt - or worse - it is ok. However, once I reached a certain point, I decided to develop my other passion, which is aviation.

The transition was easy and I enjoy what I am doing now as much as I enjoyed motorsport before. Which career is the more thrilling, and how do they make you feel: fending off Ayrton Senna at Budapest in 1990 or sealing a big aviation deal? Selling a big aircraft like an Airbus ACJ, for example, is as thrilling as winning the most difficult race! Do you still sell planes to F1 racers? I started my aircraft brokerage business in 1997 and my first clients were F1 people: HH Frentzen, Keke Rosberg, Mika Hakkinen, Michael Schumacher, Guy Ligier, etc. Once I reached 10 sales, I decided to expand and started to explore the rest of the world. To date we have sold 288 aircraft ranging from Cessna Citation to Airbus, in 50 different countries. Critics compare the “technocratic” drivers of today with the swagger and strong personalities of your Eighties and early Nineties? Do you feel the drivers before you would look down on your generation the way the current generation admires your era? We were free to live and socialise, today's drivers are "in golden jails,” every word they say is controlled, their private life is somewhat limited by contract. It is sad… Which constructor do you support now? Four years after you retired, Williams went on the wane after being one of the most successful constructors for many years. Do you see Williams ever returning to its former glory after so many years without challenging? Like in all businesses, and mainly in Motorsport, you have cycles. Take Williams, McLaren, Ferrari, even Red Bull; they may have three, maybe four or five, very good years, then another team takes their place. It is just a matter of time before they come back and win again. Of course, I am a big fan of Williams and I hope they will win a few races this year! To see the current roster of aircraft Boutsen has for sale, visit www. boutsen.com

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Tiziano Bizzotto

Luxury

j e ts e t

The Big Bang Sur la Terre visits the sprawling metropolis of Thailand's capital city and discovers an oasis of luxury amidst the hustle and bustle. Welcome to the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit.

Words: Laura Hamilton Images: Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit / Katie Schwartz / Shutterstock

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o, The Hangover II is a lie. I went to Bangkok for a few days, and I didn’t see anything nefarious, get a face tattoo or outsmarted by a monkey. And the iconic words from Mr Chow; “Holla! City of Squalor!” simply don’t ring true. As soon as we touched down after the six hour flight, Bangkok treated us well and I was not only impressed by how colourful the city is but also, in an urban centre with a population of over six million, how clean it was. In downtown Bangkok, where the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit sits, connected to my favourite mall and the sky train, it was raining, washing the streets clean. After living in the desert, any kind of precipitation

is wondrous, and the temperature was the perfect reprieve from the hot Arabian sun. As my sidekick, Katie, was sporting a cast and a limp, no epic adventure was ever going to take place, but nevertheless, the city was easy to navigate by the walking impaired. On first arriving in the hotel, the friendly PR Betty showed us around the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, one of the biggest and most luxurious hotels in the area, pointing out the many restaurants and bars, but more importantly the pool and spa. Ah, the pool. If only the trip had been longer and the desire to see Bangkok’s shops and all the culture had been less strong; then we could have reclined in the leafy oasis by the water 

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3d slt_

arabia

slt _ ar

abia 3h

to our heart’s content. On spying the luxurious day beds, we decided to return the next morning, armed with bikinis and Bloody Marys. S h o p ' T i l Yo u D ro p If there’s one thing I’ve come to loathe, it’s malls. They're a warren of small, claustrophobic hallways, bathed in neon light, where sad little shops reside. There’s nothing I love more than shopping, but malls depress me. It turns out that Thai malls do not; very bad news for my wallet. The shopping in Bangkok is “off the hook,” as the kids say. The leather goods are beautifully handcrafted, and the malls are lined with little boutiques full of clothes you didn’t even know that you needed. Thai style, as far as I can see, is very classic and feminine, without being twee, girlie, or showing off too much décolletage or leg. It’s quite colourful, without being loud, too, which means it’s perfect for Gulf living. I picked up a flouncy a-line skirt, with thin black, pink and white stripes that would look perfect on a 1950s housewife, a dark pink shirt and a tan leather clutch; very timeless, but also stylish. My friend Katie picked up a few cute dresses that would be perfect for brunching. What impressed me most about the malls, particularly Terminal 21, was that the character imbued into each

storey. Each had a completely different setup, as dictated by the iconic city that inspired it. There were a few sculptures spread over the store; London Bobbies and sumo wrestlers being my favourite. There are, of course, other options for the big spender. The weekend market at Chatuchak is a labyrinth of excitement in which you could easily get lost. It has over 15,000 stalls and everything your heart could possibly desire, as well things you never even knew existed. From large traditional Thai masks to swords, Thai silks to graphic t-shirts and leather goods, it can all be found at the market, and you’ll need a good few hours to wander around. We stopped at a little bar and had an iced tea to rest our weary feet, but I doubt we explored a tenth of what the market had to offer. V i b r a n t V e n e r at i o n Our experience at Wa Phra Kaew got off to a bad start. As we walked up to the National Palace, a man resembling a guide approached us to tell us that visitors were prohibited from entering the temple. Due to my intensely cynical mindset and a keen ear for prevarication, I brushed him aside and talked to the actual tourist information staff who shepherded us inside. As with all temples, it’s required to cover your extremities,

which is quite a task in the humidity of Bangkok. Wandering round the immense sculptures and marveling at the sheer size of the structures, I loved the colour and vibrancy. The phrase “over the top” had clearly never passed the artisans’ lips! The throng of people, however, was quite suffocating, and slightly marred the serenity of the worshippers. Inside the famous temple, the Emerald Buddha was hugely disappointing, and the gold paint was flaking off the outside. It was, however, incredibly grand and worth a visit. Spice Girls The day we landed, the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit was hosting a Korean Food Festival. It’s no secret that I love Korean food; my heart beats to the tune of kim-chi. So when I was told that the Orchid Cafe was having a food festival, my stomach rumbled in appreciation and anticipation. There was sushi, tempura (not hugely Korean by my standards) and marinated beef. The Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit was also kind enough to treat us to cooking lessons. Thai cuisine seems to be a thankless task, a shopping list as long as your arm, and a mountain of ingredients that all need chopping into pieces so tiny, you need a microscope to see them. However, locating the ingredients is the hardest work; most of

It’s impressive that the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit has managed to create such a paradise in the middle of such an urban landscape.

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Thai cooking merely involves putting things in a pot and stirring, and relying heavily on coconut products. It’s quite therapeutic, actually, and since you’re boiling everything, very time efficient; certainly one for the dinner party repertoire to impress guests. The restaurants at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit were superb. I ate in rapture, only invoking the deities and inwardly berating myself for the lack of culinary skill that I would need to reproduce the Thai food without the Sheraton’s head chef guiding me. Even poolside, our curries (perhaps not your average pool fare, but who could resist such temptation?) were light and delectable, the herbs and spices making merry in my mouth. For someone who enjoys seafood as much as I do, the brunch was a treat. Full of authentic Asian cuisine, with a focus on seafood, I spent most of my time ogling the oysters and salivating over the squid, while my more generous friend was bidding in the charity auction for a trip to stay in a sister hotel in Kuala Lumpur.

of life leave your body. You simply cannot go to Thailand and not indulge in a massage. The last time I was in the country, I had about four, but this time I wouldn’t be satisfied by the side of the road massage, even though I will never turn down a good back cracking. I wanted Thai luxury, as done by the locals, and I was not let down. After perusing the menu at the spa, and agonising about which treatment to go for, I chose the “Grande Therapeutic Luk Pra Kob”. Using a herbal compress, the masseuse rubbed

my weary bones, relieved muscle tension and gave my head a massage. The aroma of the herbs, combined with the gentle but strong hands of the masseuse, made the massage, like my visit to Bangkok, just the therapy I needed. I had previously only visited Phuket, one of the touristy islands that European holidaymakers frequent and invariably ruin, but Bangkok far exceeded my expectations. www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com

W e l l t h a i ' d k n ot s Lying on the lounges by the pool, Katie and I decided we never needed to move. It’s impressive that the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit has managed to create such a paradise in the middle of such an urban landscape. It was a shady reprieve from the hot sun, and the cold pool was perfect for escaping the humidity (the jacuzzi was overkill in the heat sadly), but it was the perfect environment to relax and let the stress

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Dolce & Gabbana

tr en ds confidential

. sur la terre . trends confidential .

rainbow fall

ainbows are fascinating works of nature; one minute there is sun, the next, rain and the result: a kaleidoscope of intense colour swathing through the sky as if by magic. Without colour, the world would be a pretty dull place; no golden Ibiza sunsets, no turquoise oceans, no fields of green, green grass and no endless Middle Eastern blue skies. Even winter brings icy whites and sparkling silvers. Autumn, however, gifts us an abundance of rich russets and burnt oranges. Oh, how I love autumn. So as we leave the bright summer behind to make way for autumn, it is not only the landscape that is working its way around the colour wheel, but our wardrobes, too. As we do away with summer’s hot hues, and the sun makes way for rain, we welcome a fresh and vibrant rainbow of autumn colour into our closets.

For a refined and feminine approach, try a silky sheath knee length dress (we love Prada’s longsleeved draped version) or a luxe pussy bow silk blouse. Team your red blouse with equally chic, billowing wide-legged tailored trousers and towering stilettos for an elegant finish. If you are feeling daring, swap your classic black tailoring for red and adorn the head-to-toe effect. It does require a heavy dose of confidence and perhaps best left until after dark, but is sure to get heads turning and give your look instant siren appeal. Again, silky fabrics and good tailoring is key. If the recent Emmy Awards are anything to go by, red is not just reserved for the carpet at evening events, but is the colour for goddess gowns and cocktail dresses. January Jones, Michelle Dockery, Claire Danes and even red-headed bombshell, Christina Hendricks, all opted for eye-popping rubescent show stoppers. If any more proof is needed that red needn’t look trashy, look to Valentino’s AW 14 gowns, which ooze a delicate feminine flair and exude an air of fairytale romance.

For a more casual approach, give your wardrobe a glam rock injection, teaming red with black or indigo blue. By red and black, I don’t mean fall into the trap of a 90s Vivienne Westwood-style punk combo, but go for a more sophisticated fairytale heroine approach. Adding even the most subtle splash of bold red to an off-duty jeans day will see your denim welcomed into the AW 14 club. This season, red and black are more downtown luxe and rock chic retro. A red bomber or biker is also a failsafe way to give past season separates and everyday casuals an instant new season twist, as well as adding that much sought-after retro feel. You can also hone autumn’s 60s vibe with a pillar-box red shift dress, or go all out with Tom Ford’s red animal skin skirt, top and boots trio, complete with fish nets. For a more classic approach though, Saint Laurent’s red riding hood cape coat is just the ticket, over an all-black ensemble.

Colour is, in fact, my first port of call when it comes to the new season (especially when revamping and organising my day, work and evening wear). Chances are, we all have some existing pieces from previous seasons in autumn-worthy shades, which means it is simply a question of investing in some strategic new pieces in the essential AW 14 colours and voilá, you have yourself a renewed wardrobe ready for the season ahead.

Accessories are also a great way to bring such a bold colour into your wardrobe. A red tote, pair of red-framed sunnies or the ubiquitous red stilettos are all simple, yet striking, ways to wear my colour of the season. Simply swing Marni’s glossed red leather bag over your shoulder, carry your evening essentials in Bottega Veneta’s Knot crocodile clutch or don Prada’s red square framed shades.

Saint Laurent

And what better place to start than at the top of the rainbow? Yes - red. This fiery, passionate and energetic colour has to be my shade of the season. As designer Bill Blass once said, “When in doubt, wear red.” This might strike you as a rather bold statement as red is not the easiest of colours to wear, but if worn correctly, it can transform your style and attitude into a striking and confident expression. And do not shy away from the reddest of reds. This season, cherry, tomato ketchup, ruby or scarlet red are the shades to go for. Red is brighter than bright this autumn, as

Victoria Beckham

Sophie Jones-Cooper fast tracks your wardrobe into autumn with this season’s hottest hues and the way to wear them.

brought to us by designer heavyweights Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Tom Ford, Dior and Valentino. Even Victoria Beckham left behind her usual monochrome palette to play around with a little rouge this autumn.

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Paris, Milan, London and particularly New York. Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors both chose grey as a key player in their autumn palette. Team grey with brown or navy for a chic and elegant style or opt for an all over grey ensemble, layering tonal shades for subtle contrast and definition, finishing the look with a pair of grey suede kneehigh boots. This effortless layering of shades also works well with camel – another of autumn’s cool and sophisticated colours. A simple camel coat will give your wardrobe an instant boost.

While these eye-popping, vibrant shades look set to brighten up any dull autumn day, it is always a good idea to choose what I like to call a base colour for your wardrobe from which to layer and add other colours, textures and shapes. The obvious choice of black, quite rightly, means less new season purchasing. However, if you want to be spot on for AW 14, or to simply update your look with a more contemporary twist, opt for navy. Navy is more forgiving than black, a little less harsh and you can be guaranteed a stylish and classic finish when wearing navy during the day or night. It works effortlessly with other key autumn colours, like grey and camel, but doesn’t mind a splash of the rainbow effect. Topshop Unique sent a sea of navy and blues down its AW14 catwalk and Stella McCartney’s cool and chic navy suit sums up this colour’s wearability and ability to offer a polished alternative to black.

At the end of our new season rainbow are autumn’s most favoured shades – the ubiquitous mustards, burgundy and bottle green, which always come out to play at this time of year. Christian Dior and Stella McCartney both sent striking green suits down the catwalk so, if in doubt when it comes to updating your work wear, when black - or even navy - is too “play it safe” for you, go for bottle green. Burgundy accessories will also inject a chic and “new season” feel into day and evening wear. You can pair burgundy boots with your jeans and knit combo, or throw a burgundy shoulder bag over a black or navy shift dress – even just wrap yourself up in an oversized burgundy scarf. Combining all three autumnal shades in one ensemble will also prove a style hit. These shades work particularly well with autumn’s love for folkstyle and Navajo prints, patchwork knits and nature-inspired autumn florals.

Dior

In fact, when it comes to new season colour, teaming your shades together is a pretty good option. Dior even combined head-totoe burgundy with a shocking pink coat, so you could say that anything goes. However, if you want to stick to the rulebook, when it comes to AW 14 colour, here are my three basic rules: one, choose a single base colour (navy, grey or camel) and layer with varying tones for an effortless louche appeal; two, sling on a bold statement coat (fur, or no fur) for a no-nonsense, sleek approach; and three, go all out and team either electric brights (red, yellow, blue, orange) OR the more somber hues (mustard, burgundy and bottle green) together in print, patterns or separates.

Celine

Another great palette cleanser is grey, and you couldn’t miss greys of all tones and shades in

Burberry

Michael Kors

Stella McCartney

Celine

Dior

Next on the rainbow arch is orange. Orange is one of those colours that you might not wear again next season, so make the most of it now. If you were ahead of the game, you may already have something orange hanging around from summer, but, if not, the easiest way to wear orange this autumn is with a coat. The same has to be said for pretty much any of the stand-alone acid brights – canary yellow, shocking pink and cobalt blue. A bold statement coat screams new season chic as seen at Dior, whose AW 14 collection is bursting with primary shades and electric hued coats. For a high street alternative, Marks & Spencer have a stunning range of statement colour-coded coats.

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Follow these three simple directions and I can guarantee that you’ll find fashion gold at the end of your wardrobe’s autumn rainbow.

LOOK BOOK

Image courtesy of Marks & Spencer

animal kingdom

As the dawn rises on a new season, listen out for the call of the tiger and the lure of the leopard.

TOP TIP:

Treat animal print as you would colour, teaming it with other shades such as camel, black and white, and introduce splashes of print with accessories.

DRESS Fenn Wright Manson, CARDIGAN Elizabeth & James at Net-A-Porter.com, SKIRT House of Fraser, DRESS Marks & Spencer, TROUSERS Lanvin at Net-a-Porter.com, JACKET Simone Rocha at Net-A-Porter.com, SKIRT Gucci at Net-A-Porter.com, SCARF Dune, BAG ChloĂŠ at Net-A-Porter.com, BAG Miu Miu at Net-A-Porter.com, BELT Marks & Spencer, BOOTS Office, SUNGLASSES Sunglass Junkie, SHOES Christian Louboutin at Net-A-Porter.com

. sur la terre . look book .

CATWALK MOMENT:

Saint Laurent pairs leopard print with tweed while Celine makes a bold statement with head to toe animal print.

The dapper gent Charm your way through autumn by brightening up your luxe tailored separates with tactile pops of cool colour.

Image courtesy of Topman

TROUSERS Richard James at MrPorter.com, SWEATER John Smedley at MrPorter.com, TROUSERS Burberry Prorsum at MrPorter. com, TROUSERS Debenhams, SHIRT Lanvin at MrPorter.com, SWEATER Massimo Alba at MrPorter.com, JACKET Boglioli at MrPorter.com, JACKET Saint Laurent at MrPorter.com, JACKET Topman, SOCKS Paul Smith at MrPorter.com, SOCKS Falke at MrPorter.com, POCKET SQUARE Etro at MrPorter.com, POCKET SQUARE Richard James at MrPorter.com, BELT Marks & Spencer, SHOES Topman.

TOP TIP: Opt for cashmere and merino wool sweaters for added refinement and don a quirky pocket square for the ultimate toast to debonair cool.

. sur la terre . look book .

White all-over giant moss stitch polo neck pullover by Eric Bompard Black leather belt by Georges Rech (Apostrophe) Military green calf skirt by Bally “Bonyta“ light cuoio leather boots by Bally Willow tote bag by Mulberry Draperie ring by Harry Winston Midnight Diamond Second watch by Harry Winston “Bisquit“ pink gold, grey and white mother of pearl necklace by Vhernier Pair of diamond briolette ear pendants by Sheffield Geneva

A Love Of Country . sur la terre . fashion .

F Photographed by Ian Abela www.ianabela.com Styled by Mélanie Hearnden “Melane“ www.justmelane.com Hair by Loïc Hauck – Le Bal des Créateurs Make-up by Gabrielle Dupont – Le Bal des Créateurs www.lebaldescreateurs.wordpress.com Models: Cristiana Grasu (Crystal Model Management) & Clément Barreda (Bananas Models) Special thanks to Manège de Crête (Julien Pradervand, Louise & Samouraï)

Plum jacket by Chanel Black waxed pant by Georges Rech (Apostrophe) The medium orchard in tapestry and leather bag by Burberry Vintage platinum and diamond “ribbon” necklace (Sheffield Geneva) “Links“ diamonds bracelet by Harry Winston “Solitaire“ pink gold with diamonds and ruby watch by Sarcar (Stephen Webster)

. sur la terre . fashion .

Black cashmere jacket by Eric Bompard Yellow pullover by Brunello Cucinelli Blue pant by Henri Cottonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (Globus) 1966 pink gold full calendar watch by Girard-Perregaux

. sur la terre . fashion .

Brown and burgundy jacket by Hackett London (Boutique rue Tour-Maîtresse) Burgundy velvet pant by Hackett London (Boutique rue Tour-Maîtresse) Spirit of Big Bang King Gold watch by Hublot

. sur la terre . fashion .

Floral print layered silk dress by Burberry Prorsum Blue fur by Couto (Picibi) “Jeanne“ black sandals by Hermès Icy diamond necklace by Bogh-Art Diamond, mandarine garnet and citrine earrings by Bogh-Art Melo pearl and diamond bracelet by Bogh-Art

. sur la terre . fashion .

Printed cashmere poncho by Circus Hôtel (Avant-Garde) Beige gabardine pant by Hermès “Joan“ printed calf boots by Hermès Lady eight red gold set watch by Jaquet Droz Pink gold lacrima earrings by Bucherer

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. sur la terre . fashion .

M ARKETPLACE

WelcomE

to the SLT Marketplace.

a go-to guide

to the hot products that are available in the regional market now.

Long, Narrow leather belt by Marina Rinaldi.

Geometric print scarf by Marina Rinaldi.

Mykita sunglasses, available at Qatar Optics.

Jami Box, available from TheOne.

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. sur la terre . marketplace .

Givenchy Dahlia Divin perfume available at fifty ONE EAST, Qatar.

Paco Rabanne Lady Million "Eau My Gold!" edition available at Salam stores in Qatar.

Fendi Furiosa available at Fifty One East, Qatar.

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. sur la terre . marketplace .

Jimmy Choo Man, available at all good perfume counters.

B&O H6 special edition headphones, available at Fifty One East in qatar.

Special collection by Hind Al Oud exclusively for The Gate Mall in Qatar.

IWC Pilotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watch Chronograph limited edition Antoine De Saint Exuper, available in Doha through Al Majed Jewellery and IWC dealers across the region.

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. sur la terre . marketplace .

Lanvin Me Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;absolu, available at Salam Stores, Qatar.

Chopard Happy Sport Medium Automatic, available in qatar through alfardan jewellery.

T Wire Bracelets by Tiffany & Co., availble from Tiffany boutiques throughout the region and also alfardan jewellery in qatar.

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. sur la terre . marketplace .

Richard Mille 037 Ladies watch, available from Ali Bin Ali watches & Jewellery.

Mondetour Bed by Jacques Garcia for Baker Furniture, available at Living In Interiors, qatar

Lancome Grandiose Mascara available at all good cosmetic counters.

Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT 24H, available from Ali Bin Ali watches & Jewellery.

Jaeger-Le Coultre Joaillerie 101 RĂŠsille, available at JaegerLeCoultre dealers regionally.

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. sur la terre . marketplace .

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DETAILS Director of Publications Mohamed Jaidah m.jaidah@firefly-me.com General Manager Joe Marritt j.marritt@firefly-me.com - Editorial Regional Managing Editor James McCarthy j.mccarthy@firefly-me.com Deputy Editor Laura Hamilton l.hamilton@firefly-me.com Fashion & Style Sophie Jones-Cooper - Contributors Kevin Hackett Xander Hamilton Harry Tanner Richard Whitehead

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SLT VOYAGER Our comprehensive city guide to magical Miami

A WORLD OF EXPERIENCE From Sri Lanka’s Tea Trails, to the Edinburgh Festival, enjoy an epicurean adventure with Sur la Terre SUR LA TERRE > ARABIA > ISSUE 34 > FALL 2014

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FASHION, STYLE & GOOD DESIGN AW14’s latest looks, BMW’s i8, Katherine Pooley and more…

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ARABIA

SLT VOYAGER Our comprehensive city guide to magical Miami

A WORLD OF EXPERIENCE From Sri Lanka’s Tea Trails, to the Edinburgh Festival, enjoy an epicurean adventure with Sur la Terre SUR LA TERRE > ARABIA > ISSUE 34 > FALL 2014

FASHION, STYLE & GOOD DESIGN AW14’s latest looks, BMW’s i8, Katherine Pooley and more…