WONDERMENT
ISSUE 337 OCTOBER 2022 A CAPSULE OF THE WORLD
“In order to see birds it is necessary to become a part of the silence.” Robert Lynd
It's hard to believe that Iran, the same country in the headlines today, depicted such an ideal way of life in its art, ensconced in dreamy landscapes, with a sophisticated civilization that was the envy of its time. At various highlighted moments in its history, women were given rare glimpses of freedoms which are still heavy battlegrounds today. In this miniature, on the bank of a cool spring in a lush meadow, a beautiful princess swoons at the sight of a young prince who has stumbled upon her bathing. Medieval audiences would have instantly recognised Shirin and Khusrau, two of the most famous lovers in the history of Persian literature. Indeed Persian miniatures of this type are inspiring, and full of colour and life. We hope that peace and freedom triumph.
ON THE COVER: Lalique panels engraved with "blackbirds and grapes" motifs, emblematic of the Art Deco style, recovered from the Nostalgie-Istanbul-Orient-Express which was rediscovered in 2015. Courtesy Orient Express, Accor © Xavier Antoinet. See full article –The Future Orient Express Train – page 6. THIS PAGE: Illustration of the Khamsa of Nizami. Khusrau finds Shirin bathing in the river. 1500 - 1600, Persia. Rijksmuseum, Holland.
EDITORIAL CONTENT AND SALES MANAGER SEAN ELLUL SELLUL@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT DESIGNER CONRAD BONDIN CBONDIN@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT PRODUCTION MANAGER ANDRE CAMILLERI ACAMILLERI@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT PUBLISHER STANDARD PUBLICATIONS, STANDARD HOUSE, BIRKIKARA HILL, ST JULIAN’S. TEL: 003562134 5888,WEB: WWW.INDEPENDENT.COM.MT FACEBOOK FIRSTMAGAZINE INSTAGRAM FIRSTMAGAZINEMALTA PRINTER PRINT-IT. FIRST IS PUBLISHED AS A COMPLIMENTARY MAGAZINE WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY AND IS NOT TO BE SOLD SEPARATELY. NO PART OF THE PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE PRIOR AGREEMENT OF THE PUBLISHER.
FIRST MAGAZINE SINCE 1993. ISSUE NUMBER 337.
EDITORIAL 3
“She decided to free herself, dance into the wind, create a new language. And birds fluttered around her, writing “yes” in the sky.” Monique Duval
WOMEN DIE EVERYDAY FOR SAYING OR LIVING THE TRUTH THE COLOUR OF PINK
CONTENTS 6 40
EXCLUSIVE SERIES: THIS IS WINE. Chambolle-Musigny. Queen of Burgundy. Vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny. Photo courtesy Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), © BIVB / photography Michel Joly.
THiS IS WiNE
11th chapter inthis issue
22 64
LA DOLCE VITA. Inside the Future Orient Express. The Bar Cart by Night. Photography© Maxime d’Angeac, Orient Express, Accor –Bar night.
TRIBUTE: QUEEN ELIZABETH II’s GRAND STATE FUNERAL. A member of the Royal cavalry rides behind the gun carriage with the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II. PhotographyAP/Bernat Armangue.
The EY Exhibition: CEZANNE AT THE TATE MODERN. Paul Cezanne, Still Life with Apples, 1893-1894. The J Paul Getty Museum.
CONTENTS
76
LA DOLCE VITA
The Future Orient Express Train Revelation.
TRIBUTE
Queen Elizabeth II. The Grand State Funeral.
THIS IS WINE
The 11th Chapter in This is Wine: Its Storied Place and Taste.
Chambolle-Musigny. Queen of Burgundy.
Corton Joy.Grand Cru.
FRESH SEAFOOD
Classicswith
Culinary Academy.
CHOCOLATE
A Short History. Superb Chocolate Ganache Tart.
EXHIBITION
Cézanne at Tate Modern.
HEALTH & FITNESS
Health. How Exercise Keeps Your Brain Healthy.
ENVIRONMENT
Global Warming. No More Excuses.
AUCTION
The Runaway Vase.
TRIBUTE 86
An October Tribute to Daphne Caruana Galizia.
MEP David Casa. Justice Delayed is Justice Denied
50 69 76
CORTON JOY. Grand Cru Explained. Photography Sean Gabriel Ellul.
Chocolate Ganache Tart with Mediterranean Culinary Academy. Photography Ruth Georgiev.
THE
EXERCISE PILL. How Exercise Keeps Your Brain Healthy.
PhotographyMilo Weiler.
ENVIRONMENT. Climate Change –No More Excuses. Photography Sebastien
Goldberg, Amazonia, Brazil
AN OCTOBER TRIBUTE TO DAPHNE
CARUANA GALIZIA. Roseate Spoonbill, 1836. Robert Havell after John James Audubon. National Gallery of Art, Washington DC.
[ISSUE 337. OCTOBER 2022]
CONTENTS 6
22
40
50
53
Seafood
Mediterranean
60
64
69
Mental
84
87
60 86 5
ONCE UPON A TIME... THERE WAS THE FUTURE ORIENT EXPRESS TRAIN
140 years ago, Georges Nagelmackers, the Belgian engineer and businessman turned his dream into reality by launching the first luxury Orient Express trains. Now, the legend continues with the unveiling of the future Orient Express train. Completely re-imagined, the old historic carriages, disappeared, forgotten, and then found again, are back in service. This is the story of a train born from a dream, one that defies time. Today it has been reimagined by architect Maxime d’Angeac. An original design, inspired by the 1920s, created with the codes of contemporary luxury. Prior to its launch in 2025, and on the occasion of Contemporary Art Week in Paris, Orient Express, part of the Accor Group, has just unveiled the design of its future train this October in Paris.
Photography courtesy Orient Express, Accor.
6 LA DOLCE VITA
LA DOLCE VITA 7
This page: The new Orient Express reinterpreted by Maxime d’Angeac. © Maxime d’Angeac, Orient Express, Accor.
LA DOLCE VITA 8
This page: The Lalique panels (recovered from the Nostalgie-Istanbul-Orient-Express), emblematic of the Art Deco style, which remained intact and engraved with “blackbirds and grapes” motifs. © Xavier Antoinet.
THE ORIENT EXPRESS: A LEGEND, REDISCOVERED
Artisan of travel since 1883, Orient Express began as the realization of the dream of its founder, Georges Nagelmackers. Inspired by his trip to the Americas, he launched the most luxurious train in the world and the rest is history: a legend was born. The Orient Express traversed the great European capitals, linking the West to the gates of the East. It was an era filled with magic that ended in 1977.
In the early 1980s, two private entrepreneurs decided to resurrect the legend. James Sherwood, the American owner of the Cipriani Hotel in Venice, put the VeniceSimplon-Orient-Express back on track. In
addition, the Swiss tour operator and businessman Albert Glatt inaugurated the Nostalgie-Istanbul-Orient-Express. This “cruise train” of dreams, made up of the historic cars of the Orient Express, ran between Zurich and Istanbul and was a resounding success. In 1992, the King of Pop, Michael Jackson, travelled on the train for a few weeks during his European tour for Dangerous. Called the “Extrême-OrientExpress”, the train embarked on its longest journey, linking Paris to Tokyo. Despite this great achievement, the Nostalgie-IstanbulOrient-Express stopped service a few years later and disappeared off the rails and off the grid.
IN SEARCH OF THE LAST ORIENT EXPRESS
In 2015, Arthur Mettetal, a researcher specializing in industrial history, conducted a worldwide inventory of the Orient Express for France’s national train service, SNCF. During the course of his research, he discovered a providential video of a train in full service, posted by an anonymous person on YouTube. “We knew that the Glatt train existed somewhere, but
nobody knew exactly where. While deciphering the video, we saw the sign for the “Malaszewicze” station, a name widely used in Poland. With a bit of persistence, Google Maps and Google 3D put us on the right track. The car roofs, visible on the aerial views, were indeed those of the Nostalgie-Istanbul-Orient-Express, neatly lined up on the border between Belarus and Poland.”
AN ART DECO GEM
The treasure was discovered a few months later. Arthur Mettetal went to Warsaw accompanied by a translator, a photographer and Orient-Express’ Vice President Guillaume de Saint Lager. After a 4hour drive from the Polish capital, the group reached an isolated marshalling area in the middle of the steppe, right on the Belarusian border. The visit took place the next day, at dawn. The cars appeared to have been sleeping there in the open air for about ten years.
Surprisingly well preserved, the interiors still revealed the Morrison and Nelson marquetry, as well as the Lalique panels, emblematic of the Art Deco style, which remained intact and engraved with “blackbirds and grapes” motifs. A true miracle and discovery of a lost treasure. After two years of negotiations, the owner of the Nostalgie-Istanbul-Orient-Express ceded his coveted train to Orient Express. The agreement was signed at the Bristol Hotel in Vienna in July 2018. A Dantesque convoy of trucks escorted by several police vehicles brought the 17 cars – 12 sleeping cars, 1 restaurant, 3 lounges and 1 van – back to France.
Orient Express entrusted architect Maxime d’Angeac with a crucial and historic mission, namely to revive the Orient Express, to sublimate and extend its history by reinterpreting the decor of the NostalgieIstanbul-Orient-Express. Known for his collaborations with the houses Daum and Hermès in partnership with the American designer Hilton McConnico, Maxime d’Angeac has been behind several prestigious restoration and decoration projects for the past 20 years – from the Maison Guerlain on the Champs-Elysées to breathing new life into the apartments, castles and private villas entrusted to him. Fascinated by the great revolutionary artistic movements, in love with the Italian Renaissance as well as Art Deco, a lover of travel novels, a follower of the stories of Jules Verne, Henry Miller and the postapocalyptic comic book Transperceneige, the architect took on the challenge of reinventing the legendary Orient Express. In 2024, just in time for the Paris Olympic Games, the first cars restored to d’Angeac’s savoir-faire and imagined in collaboration with the finest French artisans, will reveal the new charms of the Orient Express.
9 LA DOLCE VITA
“The starting point of this fabulous project is a dream”, said d’Angeac in a press release detailing the project. “A contemporary story that sprung from the legend of the Orient Express. It’s a projection into an era – the 1920s – and into the culture of luxury and its artisans.
It all began with drawings, sketches and models made by hand. The work is meticulous just like it was in the past. By slipping into the shoes of its crea – tors, from René Prou to Suzanne Lalique, I tried to reinterpret the history of this legendary train, not only with nostalgia, but with a desire to extend its history, to transport us to another place. As if it was all a dream.”
LA DOLCE VITA 10
This page: The intimate lounges of the Bar Car emanate with spectacular green hues. © Maxime d'Angeac, Orient Express, Accor.
A DREAM
LA DOLCE VITA
This page: The Bar Car by night, under large Second Empire-style domes of light, each supported by four columns. © Maxime d’Angeac, Orient Express, Accor.
12
THE BAR CAR
One hundred and forty years after the launch of the first luxury Orient Express trains, Maxime d’Angeac pays tribute to a legend by revisiting the decorative codes of the 19th century. Under large Second Empire-style domes of light, each supported by four columns, the intimate lounges of the Bar Car emanate with spectacular green hues. From the rosewood to the marble covering the tables to the bronze of the column capitals, the mood is “travel chic.” At each table, a clock rings out the time for cocktails and dinner. A call button is reserved for champagne service. The charm of the past effortlessly fuses with the present.
13 LA DOLCE VITA
THE DINING CAR
Spectacular and unexpected, the Dining Car of the future Orient Express reinterprets the codes of the legendary train. Inspired by tapestry motifs by Suzanne Lalique, which were part of the
composition of the first Orient Express trains, Maxime d’Angeac has reinterpreted the “rail” motif, diverted on the partitions thanks to the stoneboard. The technique was born in the nineteenth century and used to make ornaments of moldings and ceiling decorations.
15 LA DOLCE VITA
This page: In the Dining car, under a mirrored ceiling, crossed by a series of arches reflecting a soft subdued light, napa tables and armchairs are lined up, lit by lamps with shades revisiting the original models. © Maxime d’Angeac, Orient Express, Accor.
THE CORRIDORS
Under a vaulted ceiling, and punctuated by “flower” lamps signed by Lalique, original pieces are recovered from the Nostalgie-Istanbul-OrientExpress, and a graphic and rhythmic carpet animates the space.
THE SUITES
To counter the strict lines and designs of the train, Maxime d’Angeac introduced the circular shape to add softness and balance. The angles are rounded throughout the train. Magic mirrors play with perspectives. Here, the partitions are covered with precious wood and a leather wall that reinterprets Suzanne Lalique’s famous “rail” motifs. The headboards are covered with wooden embroidery with mother-of-pearl and bronze beads, while the nooks are adorned with Lalique’s original “Blackbirds & grapes” panels, recovered from the original Nostalgie-Istanbul-Orient Express cars. When it’s time for “the Great Transformation” the suites transform from day to night configuration with smart shifts in the decor.
Above:
The corridors of the future Orient Express train are places of travel, encounters and surprises, and offer a theatrical décor. © Maxime d’Angeac, Orient Express, Accor. Below: A look inside a Suite –by “Day”,
the
sofa
and
settee invite you
to rest,
relax and read. © Maxime d’Angeac, Orient Express, Accor.
LA DOLCE VITA 16
LA DOLCE VITA 18
This page: Inside a Suite by night. To counter the strict lines and designs of the train, Maxime d’Angeac introduced the circular shape to add softness and balance. © Maxime d’Angeac, Orient Express, Accor. Facing page: Discreet and surprisingly comfortable, the bathroom with sliding doors is adorned with marble and the toilets and dressing room complete the beautiful layout. © Maxime d’Angeac, Orient Express, Accor.
19 LA DOLCE VITA
“Created like a work of art, the future Orient Express train was born from a marvel, the Nostalgie-Istanbul-Orient-Express, entirely reinvented and equipped with outstanding facilities. From this framework, a decor emerged – one without a defined era, instead inspired by Art Deco, Empire and contemporary styles”, says Maxime d’Angeac. “The train’s history has been rewritten, this time transcending trends. Nothing is superfluous –each detail has meaning. It is part engineering feat, part
dream-inspiring work of art that is the epitome of French Luxury, complete with refined decor, sublimated by the savoir-faire and talent of the finest French artisans.”
Already making a Grand Tour of sorts, the next stop for the ‘Orient Express Revelation’ after Paris will be at Design Miami, from November 30th to December 4th 2022. And in 2024, just in time for the Paris Olympic Games, the first cars will be on display and passengers will be able to hop on board for the first time to get a sneak peek at the new décor of the future train.
LA DOLCE VITA 20
This page: Evening in a Suite. © Maxime d’Angeac, Orient Express, Accor.
TRIBUTE 22
“Each day is a new beginning, I know that the only way to live my life is to try to do what is right, to take the long view, to give of my best in all that the day brings, and to put my trust in God.”
Queen Elizabeth II
Queen Elizabeth II The Grand State Funeral
The United Kingdom and the world bid farewell to Queen Elizabeth II this year on Monday September 19th with a state funeral that drew presidents, prime ministers and royalty, as well as crowds in the streets of London and at Windsor Castle, to honour a monarch whose 70-year reign defined an age. Indeed about a quarter-million people joined the longest queue most have ever seen for a chance to file past the Queen’s coffin from September 14th until shortly before her state funeral. Many in the queue waited for up to 13 hours, spending entire nights shuffling for miles along the River Thames to pay their respects. The first state funeral since Winston Churchill’s was filled with spectacle and was followed around the world. Before the service, a bell at Westminster Abbey tolled 96 times – once a minute for each year of Elizabeth’s life. The abbey’s Tenor Bell struck at 9:24 a.m. and rang once a minute until the Queen’s funeral service began at 11 a.m. 142 Royal Navy sailors used ropes to draw the gun carriage carrying her flag-draped coffin to Westminster Abbey.
This page: Royal mounted guards escort the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II to Westminster Abbey. The Queen’s Coffin had been Lying-in-State since the evening of Wednesday 14th September. At 6.30am on the morning of Monday 19th September, the Lying-in-State ended. At 1044hrs the Coffin was borne in Procession on the State Gun Carriage of the Royal Navy from the Palace of Westminster to Westminster Abbey for the State Funeral. Immediately following the Coffin was The King, Members of the Royal
and members of The King’s Household.
AP/Petr David Josek.
TRIBUTE
MONDAY
SEPTEMBER 19, 2022
Family
Photograph
INFORMATION SOURCED FROM AP, HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES HRP.ORG.UK, THE ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST RCT.UK, AND THE ROYAL HOUSEHOLD ROYAL.UK. 23
WESTMINSTER ABBEY
It has been 262 years since the last funeral was held at Westminster Abbey for a British monarch. King George II’s funeral was held at the abbey in 1760. Since then two royal consorts have had their final rites there: Queen Alexandra, King Edward VII’s widow, in 1925; and Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother who died in 2002. Instead of continuing down the path of Britain’s previous Kings and Queens to the chapel at Windsor, Queen Elizabeth’s body was taken from where it was lying in state at Westminster Hall directly to the abbey. The service ended with two minutes of silence observed across the United Kingdom, after which the attendees sang the national anthem, now titled “God Save the King.”
This page: The coffin of Queen Elizabeth II, draped in the Royal Standard, is placed in Westminster Abbey for the funeral service. Photograph AP/Ben Stansall.
24 TRIBUTE
“I know just how much I rely on my own faith to guide me through the good times and the bad.”
Queen Elizabeth II
COINS COMMEMORATING QUEEN ELIZABETH II
The Central Bank of Malta in collaboration with the Commonwealth Mint & Philatelic Bureau Ltd UK proudly presents 4 Gold Bullion coins and 4 Silver Bullion coins, in memory of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. These coins are designed by the renowned artist Jody Clark who also designed the official effigy of HM Queen Elizabeth II that has featured on The Royal Mint coinage since 2016. The Central Bank of Malta will have a very limited number of these coins available for its customers. If interested kindly send an email to mcc@centralbankmalta.org with your order.
THE IMPERIAL STATE CROWN
The coffin was draped with the Royal Standard and atop it was the Imperial State Crown, sparkling with almost 3,000 diamonds, along with 17 sapphires, 11 emeralds, 269 pearls, and 4 rubies, and the sovereign’s orb and scepter. The Imperial State Crown, one of the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom, symbolises the sovereignty of the monarch, and has existed in various forms since the 15th centur y. The current version was commissioned for the Coronation of King George VI on 12 May 1937, from the Crown Jewellers, Garrard & Co, and is worn by the monarch after a coronation (St Edward’s Crown is used at the moment of crowning itself) and used at the State Openings of Parliament. The Imperial State Crown is adorned with 2,901 precious stones, including the Cullinan II diamond, St Edward’s Sapphire, the Stuart Sapphire, and the Black Prince’s Ruby. During a coronation the monarch is presented with objects representing their powers and responsibilities. This is called the investiture. Among the objects is the Sovereign’s Orb, a golden globe surmounted by a cross which reminds the monarch that their power is derived from God. The Sovereign’s Sceptre with Cross has been used at every coronation since Charles II’s in 1661, and was transformed in 1910 for George V with the addition of the Cullinan I diamond. At 530.2 carats, it is the largest colourless cut diamond in the world.
27 TRIBUTE
“It has been women who have breathed gentleness and care into the harsh progress of mankind.”
Queen Elizabeth II
This page: At The King’s request, the wreath atop the coffin contained foliage of Rosemary, English Oak and Myrtle (cut from a plant grown from Myrtle in The Queen’s wedding bouquet) and flowers, in shades of gold, pink and deep burgundy, with touches of white, cut from the gardens of Royal Residences (source:@RoyalFamily/Twitter). The handwritten note on the wreath read, “In loving and devoted memory,” signed Charles R (Rex). Photograph AP/Bernat Armangue.
MILITARY PERSONNEL
The meticulously choreographed operation that began with the Queen’s death on September 8th at her Balmoral Estate in the Scottish Highlands saw 5,949 military personnel deployed throughout. This included 4,416 from the army, 847 from the navy and 686 from the air force. In addition, around 175 armed forces personnel from Commonwealth nations were involved. At least 1,650 military personnel were involved in the pomp-filled procession of the Queen’s coffin from Westminster Abbey to Wellington Arch after her funeral, while a further 1,000 lined the streets along the procession route. When the Queen’s coffin reached Windsor, 410 military personnel took part in the procession, 480 lined the streets, 150 were in a guard of honour and lined steps, while 130 more fulfilled other ceremonial duties. 142 Royal Navy ratings were tasked with pulling the state gun carriage carrying the Queen’s coffin from the Houses of Parliament to Westminster Abbey for her funeral and afterward for a procession through London. More than 10,000 police officers were involved, the policing operation was the biggest in the London force’s history, surpassing the London 2012 Olympics.
29 TRIBUTE
“Perhaps we make too much of what is wrong and too little of what is right. The trouble with gloom is that it feeds upon itself and depression causes more depression.”
Queen Elizabeth II
This page: The coffin of Queen Elizabeth II, draped in the Royal Standard, is pulled on the State Gun Carriage of the Royal Navy following her funeral service in Westminster Abbey. Photograph AP/Vadim Ghirda.
Queen Elizabeth II
THE BIDDING
“In grief and also in profound thanksgiving we come to this House of God, to a place of prayer, to a church where remembrance and hope are sacred duties. Here, where Queen Elizabeth was married and crowned, we gather from across the nation, from the Commonwealth, and from the nations of the world, to mourn our loss, to remember her long life of selfless service, and in sure confidence to commit her to the mercy of God our maker and redeemer. With gratitude we remember her unswerving commitment to a high calling over so many years as Queen and Head of the Commonwealth. With admiration we recall her life-long sense of duty and dedication to her people. With thanksgiving we praise God for her constant example of Christian faith and devotion. With affection we recall her love for her family and her commitment to the causes she held dear. Now, in silence, let us in our hearts and minds recall our many reasons for thanksgiving, pray for all members of her family, and commend Queen Elizabeth to the care and keeping of almighty God.”
The Bidding by the Very Reverend Dr David Hoyle MBE, Dean of Westminster, at Queen Elizabeth II’s state funeral in Westminster Abbey.
TRIBUTE
“Everyone is our neighbour, no matter what race, creed or colour.”
This page: At the end of the Service at Westminster, the Queen’s coffin was borne to Welington Arch, via The Mall, past Buckingham Palace, on the State Gun Carriage of the Royal Navy followed by members of the Royal family. Photograph AP/Carl Court.
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MELITA Gold
This issue is available in four denominations; 1oz-€100, 1/2oz-€50, 1/4oz-€25 and 1/10oz-€10. Melita coins are legal tender and classed as investment gold, and their price is based primarily on the spot price of gold on the international markets. These bullion coins are exempt from any Value Added Tax. Each coin is set in an individually numbered sealed card that certifies the coin within.
MALTA Weight Alloy Diameter Quality Face Value Thickness Edge Year of Issue 1oz 31.103g (1oz) Fine Gold 999.9 34mm Proof-like €100 1.78mm Milled 2022 1/2oz 15.55g (1/2oz) Fine Gold 999.9 27mm Proof-like €50 1.40mm Milled 2022 1/4oz 7.77g (1/4oz) Fine Gold 999.9 22mm Proof-like €25 1.06mm Milled 2022 1/10oz 3.110g (1/10oz) Fine Gold 999.9 16mm Proof-like €10 0.80mm Milled 2022 Real size illustrations www.lombardmalta.com • www.maltacoins.com Available online at www.maltacoins.com or Lombard Bank, 67, Republic Street, Valletta in collaboration with Gold
LOVE OF ANIMALS
Onlookers lined the route the hearse carrying Queen Elizabeth’s coffin took from London to Windsor Castle, and many tossed flowers at the cortege as it passed. As the coffin arrived at the castle, there were poignant reminders of her love of animals. A groom stood at the roadside with one of her ponies, Emma, and another member of staff held the leashes of two of her beloved corgis, Sandy and Muick. Since coming to the throne in 1952 the Queen became a patron of Royal Ascot, and although she scaled back on some of her duties when she turned 90, she remained attending race meetings until the event turned digital. In 2013 Queen Elizabeth became the first ever reigning monarch to win the Royal Ascot Gold Cup with her horse Estimate.
This page: Emma, the monarch’s fell pony, stands as the Ceremonial Procession of the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II arrives at Windsor Castle for the Committal Service at St George’s Chapel. Photograph AP/Aaron Chown.
TRIBUTE
“In times of doubt and anxiety the attitudes people show in their daily lives, in their homes, and in their work, are of supreme importance.”
Queen Elizabeth II
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MOB: 9989 6286 FACEBOOK GIO. BATTA DELIA 1901 Gio. Batta Delia ESTABLISHED 1901
TRIBUTE 34
ST. GEORGE’S CHAPEL AND WINDSOR CASTLE
Eight hundred mourners, many of them the Queen’s staff, joined the King and Royal family members at St. George’s Chapel for a Committal Service – the last public ceremony in the grand state funeral. St. George’s, a gothic chapel on the grounds of Windsor Castle, and Windsor Castle itself, featured prominently throughout Queen Elizabeth’s life. Believed to be the largest occupied castle in the world, Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret were sent to live at Windsor during World War II while their parents were busy with the war effort. As Queen, Elizabeth spent most of her weekends in Windsor, a quiet and more private retreat away from Buckingham Palace in central London, and in recent years she made Windsor her main residence, moving there in early 2020 at the start of the coronavirus pandemic. St. George’s Chapel was a place of many happy memories where she marked many Christmas and Easter holidays. She also celebrated the weddings of three of her grandchildren at St George’s: Prince Harry married Meghan Markle there in 2018, as did Princess Eugenie and Jack Brooksbank; and Peter Philips, the Queen’s oldest grandchild, married Autumn Kelly there in 2008.
35 TRIBUTE
“Over the years, those who have seemed to me to be the most happy, contented and fulfilled have always been the people who have lived the most outgoing and unselfish lives.”
Queen Elizabeth II
This page: The Royal State Hearse carrying the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II arrives at Windsor Castle, Windsor, ahead of the Committal Service. Photograph AP/Ryan Pierse.
THE COMMITTAL SERVICE
The Committal Service was conducted by the Dean of Windsor who praised the Queen. “We have come together to commit into the hands of God the soul of his servant Queen Elizabeth. Here, in St George’s Chapel, where she so often worshipped, we are bound to call to mind someone whose uncomplicated yet profound Christian Faith bore so much fruit. Fruit, in a life of unstinting service to the Nation, the Commonwealth and the wider world, but also (and especially to be remembered in this place) in kindness,concern and reassuring care for her family and friends and neighbours. In the midst of our rapidly changing and frequently troubled world, her calm and dignified presence has given us confidence to face the future, as she did, with courage and with hope. As, with grateful hearts, we reflect on these and all the many other ways in which her long life has been a blessing to us, we pray that God will give us grace to honour her memory by following her example, and that, with our sister Elizabeth, at the last, we shall know the joys of life eternal.”
This page: The coffin of Queen Elizabeth II is carried into St George’s Chapel for her Committal Service, in Windsor Castle. Photograph Ap/Jonathan Brady.
TRIBUTE
“No age group has a monopoly of wisdom, and indeed I think the young can sometimes be wiser than us. But the older I get, the more conscious I become of the difficulties young people have to face as they learn to live in the modern world.”
Queen Elizabeth II
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FINAL RESTING
The Reading given by the Dean of Windsor, Revelation 21, verses 1-7, was also read at the funerals of the Queen’s grandparents, King George V in 1936 and Queen Mary in 1953, and her father King George VI in 1952. “I saw a new heaven and a new earth: for the first heaven and the first earth were passed away; and there was no more sea. And I John saw the holy city, new Jerusalem, coming down from God out of heaven, prepared as a bride adorned for her husband. And I heard a great voice out of heaven saying, Behold, the tabernacle of God is with men, and he will dwell with them, and they shall be his people, and God himself shall be with them, and be their God. And God shall wipe away all tears from their eyes; and there shall be no more death, neither sorrow, nor crying, neither shall there be any more pain: for the former things are passed away. And he that sat upon the throne said, Behold, I make all things new. And he said unto me, Write: for these words are true and faithful. And he said unto me, It is done. I am Alpha and Omega, the beginning and the end. I will give unto him that is a thirst of the fountain of the water of life freely. He that overcometh shall inherit all things; and I will be his God, and he shall be my son.” Then prior to the final Hymn, the crown and the orb and scepter were removed from atop the coffin and placed on the altar – separating them from the Queen for the last time, and her coffin was lowered into the royal vault through an opening in the chapel’s floor. At a private family service in The King George VI Memorial Chapel later that evening, the Queen was laid to rest with her husband, Prince Philip, and with her parents.
TRIBUTE
“We know the reward is peace on earth, goodwill toward men, but we cannot win it without determination and concerted effort.”
Queen Elizabeth II
This page: The Imperial State Crown rests on the high altar after being removed from the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II during the Committal Service at St George’s Chapel in Windsor Castle. Photograph AP/Joe Giddens.
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CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
QUEEN OF BURGUNDY
THIS IS WINE for its most delicate of wines. Lavalle of course was being complimentary in that the beautifully named and picturesque hamlet is famous for its wines and they are refined and perfumed to the point where the appellation is fondly known as the Queen of Burgundy, writes Kris Bonavita.
BURGUNDY - COTE D’OR - COTE DE NUITS - CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
The eleventh chapter in This is wine: its storied place and taste. “Fruit of the earth, work of human hands, blessed be God forever”
This page: Vines at Chambolle-Musigny. Photo courtesy Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), © BIVB / photography Jean-Louis Bernuy. 40
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
n 1855 Dr Jules Lavalle, in his classification of Burgundy wines, set Chambolle apart as worthy of note for its most delicate of wines. Lavalle of course was being complimentary in that the beautifully named and picturesque hamlet is famous for its wines and they are refined and perfumed to the point where the appellation is fondly known as the Queen of Burgundy. Possibly because French is a romance language with genderized nouns this would all be very fine, but to the Anglo-phonic world where everything is neuter it is up for discussion. However, regardless of whether one wishes to see wines as feminine upon their floral, fragrant and refined attributes, as opposed to masculine wines considered fullbodied, strong in tannins and having heavier aromas and flavours with its ensuing gender-stereotype minefield; it is worth noting that when blind tests were done to ascertain how feminine Chambolle was in contrast to Gevrey, considered masculine, the results did not in any way confirm this. This is not a sensory fact but a cultural conceit, albeit for good reason.
Which brings us to how far wine has been categorized as strong or refined just on the belief that it would serve its producers well in their marketing strategies. The 19th and 20th centuries would see important developments in the quality and categorization of wines with the institution of stricter rules determining terroir and promoting wines as distinct purely on their origins. The 1850s Lavalle Classification of vineyards was enshrined in French law in the 1930s Appellation Origine Controlee grand and premier cru and village labelling. While this is very much the case and as a consequence some wines are considered, such as Vosne-Romanée, as being the height of perfect balance in both male and female attributes, it is worth noting that regardless of gender, Chambolle is in fact famous for producing wines that are affable on the ground that they are fragrant and delicate, even if some Chambolle wines are equally valued for being far from that. But there again having a cultural stereotype is useful even if it is just to prove that it is far from reality. At the risk of labouring the metaphor, Chambolle which added its most famous vineyard Les Musigny to its name, as was fashionable in the late 19th century, has a number of important vineyards and climats whose names are equally floral, such as Les Amoureuses (the female lovers), Les Bonnes Mares (the good mothers) and Les Charmes (the charms), for good measure.
Wines of Silk and Lace
The picturesque village of Chambolle-Musigny is home to some of the greatest vineyards and winemakers. Being one of the smallest appellations it lays claim to two grand cru and 25 premier cru climats, over and above Village designated vineyards. The finest wines from Chambolle, such as those of Les Musigny, are seen as on par even with Vosne-Romanée grand crus themselves and are famed for their sensuous fruit and silky lace textures. In what Shakespeare in King Lear would refer to as the ‘vines of France and milk of Burgundy’ Chambolle punches a weight greater than its size. One of the factors in its development similar to its esteemed neighbours to its immediate south, Vosne-Romanée, Flagey-Echézeaux and Clos de Vougeot, was the settling of monks
Winemaking in Burgundy
One of the reasons why Burgundy wines are so special is not just down to incredible climat and vine-growing skills, but equally to the style of winemaking prevalent in the region. Pinot Noir is about phenolic maturity which is the level of ripeness of the anthocyanins and tannins. These are found in the grape and especially the skins and are preserved in the final wine as the deep colours and flavours we see and taste. Winemaking is essentially about capturing, preserving and letting these phenolic compounds develop to their highest expression within the constraints or qualities of each vintage year. Since at least the 15th century there has been a ban on early harvesting precisely to aid quality, where early picking due to the risk of inclement weather was a convenient way of ensuring good yields; as opposed to precariously allowing the grapes to reach the right level of ripeness. Harvesting is often done by hand and grapes are sorted on perforated tables to allow rainwater to drain away, a common occurrence in early autumn.
Depending upon the winemaker and vintage the grapes are either
nearby. In the 9th century the nearby Abbey of Saint Vivant was founded and became large landowners in this region, which included vineyards that at the time had not yet been delineated according to terroir. By the early 12th century the monks from Citeaux founded the other neighbouring monastery of Clos de Vougeot with records showing vineyards having already been established around the hamlet. The monks over several centuries were at the forefront of discovering and parcelling the land according to type in a way which has led to the formal classifications we know of today. While Saint Vivant was demolished and all the church’s land confiscated in the French revolution, an entrepreneurial class would take over their important work in vine growing and winemaking that essentially makes up Chambolle-Musigny.
destemmed or partially left with their stems as a source of tannins and flavours in less ripe years. The destemmed grapes or clusters are then crushed and placed into fermentation vats often still as lightcoloured juice. Upon maceration, where the must, made up of skins, seeds and stems, is left to steep for a couple of weeks in the vats, the juice takes on a more familiar reddish colour. It has become more common for cuveries or estates to cold macerate for two or three days maintaining a temperature around 15 degrees to allow for a softer extraction of flavour, giving time to harvest all grapes before alcoholic fermentation. During fermentation yeast, added or naturally present, converts sugars into alcohol and the by-product of carbon dioxide brings the skins and grape solids to the surface. Extraction can also involve gently pumping the juice over the floating caps of skins and seeds or breaking the cap with poking sticks; methods known as remontage and pigeage respectively. The all-important flavourpreserving tannins and colour-enhancing anthocyanins adhere better in the presence of oxygen and with more contact between the juice and caps, over and above the preserving qualities of alcohol.
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After two or three weeks of alcoholic fermentation, the new wine is freely drained and aged in oak barrels. The remaining juice and must is then hard pressed for its stronger colours and tannins and either incorporated in the same barrels or aged separately for one to two years and blended accordingly at the bottling stage. While the wines are being stored in the first few months they undergo a process of malolactic fermentation where bitter acetic and malic acids are transformed by bacteria through oxidization into more palatable lactic acids adding a further layer of complexity. The barrels are sometimes decanted into cleaner barrels in order to remove the lees (grape and yeast debris), a process of filtering known as racking. This also exposes the wine to oxygen and softens the tannins further. Some winemakers choose to stir the fine lees in the barrels to make richer wines; a process known as batonnage. The forests from which the oak comes from and the method of cooperage (barrel making) contribute different flavours and tannins to the wine, and aide in minute oxygenation, an important process in the
gracious aging. Domaines often use a variety of barrels from new to old to add complexity to the wine. Varying parcels of vines often have their grapes aged separately and are skilfully blended at the bottling stage. About a month before bottling egg whites are normally added to the red wine in the barrels as a fining agent to remove some of the larger precipitates or tannins and pigments before bottling. Sulphur may also be added to protect the wine from further oxidation at this most delicate stage of bottling. Sometimes wines are also filtered as a further means of stabilization for greater aging potential.
While this is the general method of winemaking in Burgundy, this is far from a standard process as every winemaker makes countless decisions relying on intuitive savoire-faire, manual and technical skills and machinery to extract the best out of a particular vintage and given vineyard and their own personal domain or appellation style. Burgundy hounds or aficionados place more weight on the producer than the vineyard name for any given year. Yet, the diversity of wine styles adds a further layer of complexity, sophistication and otherworldliness to a region already famed as such.
Riveting and Beautiful –Weighted Weightlessness CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY WINE CARD Geography
Chambolle-Musigny is one of the smallest appellations in the Cote de Nuits which forms part of the Cote D’Or wine region. The roughly square-shaped commune of 3 square miles lies between Vougeot to the south and Morey-St Denis to the north and is split in two by the Grone River valley or combe with two slopes on either side of the picturesque village lying at an altitude of around 300 metres. Chambolle derives its name from the term champ bouillant or ebullient field which describes the overflowing of the river banks. Chambolle-Musigny has
Terroir –Soil, Climate and Vintage
Unlike the clay-rich soils of the rest of the Cote de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny is unique in having predominantly limestone soils made up of a thin but iron-rich chalk and pebble topsoil overlying a hard but fissured rocky subsoil. This combination is what lies beneath the delicate but intense characteristics associated with its wines as the vines have a more stressed disposition which sharply reduces their yields and the size of berries. Its most famous vineyard Musigny has some of the most elevated and steep land and possibly the most iron and calcium-rich terroir in the commune, lying westwards just above the Clos de Vougeot appellation. The other Grand Cru, Les Bonnes Mares, also enjoys an elevated position even if its more northerly location with a clay subsoil gives rise to a more full-bodied style of wine. Both vineyards have an advantageously east-facing orientation. Nestled in between Les Musigny and Clos de Vougeot lies one the top Premier Cru climats in Burgundy, Les Amoureuses, followed in close succession by its neighbour Les Charmes. Slightly thinner soils with fast draining elevation allow both climats to produce grapes of limited but concentrated yields that in some way
around 180 hectares of vinified land, around 60 hectares on the midslopes are taken up by 25 premier cru climats and the rest is designated Village. The commune also has two of the highest-rated grand cru appellations Les Musigny and Bonnes Mares, the second of which it partially shares with the neighbouring commune of Morey-St Denis. The best-known Premier crus are Les Amoureuses, which is considered on par with a Grand cru, and Les Charmes. However, even at Village level, Chambolle-Musigny has some of the best and most consistent red wines in Burgundy.
epitomize the whole appellation.
Chambolle Musigny has probably some of the best weather conditions and rainfall patterns for growing Pinot Noir which apart from the welldraining soils half explains the rich consistency in its wines. Over and above east and southeast exposures of its most famous vineyards allowing for early morning sun; the cool continental climate with cold nights and warmer days ensures that ripeness does not take place at the expense of acidity which as such is what gives Chambolle-Musigny its welcoming delicate and balanced freshness over and above intensity. This perhaps explains the quality of vintages even in difficult years with wine aficionados looking more at individual domaine styles. Schematically the best years for Cote De Nuits red wines are 2019, 2016, 2018, 2015, 2010, 2005, and 2009. Less outstanding but still very good are 2017, 2014, 2012, and 2011. Older vintages where value may be found with the right ratings are 2013, 2008 and 2002. However individual wines should be assessed according to popular and wine critics’ ratings available online. It is worth keeping an eye out for generic Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru labelled wines which combine fruit from many of the less-known premier cru vineyards.
Heaven in a Glass –Soft Power and Velvety Depth
WINE STYLE AND CHARACTER
The overriding feature of Chambolle-Musigny wine is its elegant intensity and silky purity. While a diversity of domaine styles exists, the terroir of the region, with its light soils rich in iron and limestone, is believed to be the main factor in the delicate yet powerful character of its wines. In colour they range in the bright ruby red spectrum darkening with age. The bouquet is distinguishable in being floral violet and rose, with red fruit raspberry and strawberry notes, turning towards the spicy dark fruit, earthy truffle and savoury game range with time. The wines are delicate in structure with soft tannins and a mild acidity, but by no means without power and complexity.
In terms of diversity from the most southwest to the northeast: Les Musigny has its followers as the best expression of Pinot Noir possibly on
par with the likes of Romanée-Conti and nicknamed the iron fist in a velvet glove. Concentrated in bouquet and flavour it is famed for its perfectly balanced structure and powerful but elegant tannins with a mouthenduring complexity and sensual finish. The comparatively less pricey Les Amoureuses is considered the best expression of Premier Cru with its supple fruit, earthy but perfumed character balanced by its soft tannins and good ageability. Les Charmes is mouth-filling rich and fleshy with a fullbodied structure and well-rounded textures. At the other end of the appellation, Bonnes Mares blends perfectly the two distinct styles of Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-St-Denis which it overlies into one firmer and more tannic wine. However, the multiple domains that own land in this vineyard and its variation in soils result in a range of wines from the delicate and perfumed to the more austere and full-bodied.
THIS IS WINE
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The overriding feature of Chambolle-Musigny wine is its elegant intensity and silky purity. While a diversity of domaine styles exists, the terroir of the region, with its light soils rich in iron and limestone, is believed to be the main factor in the delicate yet powerful character of its wines.
THIS IS WINE 44
This page: The village of Chambolle-Musigny ensconced either side of the valley by vineyards. Photo courtesy Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), © BIVB / photography Aurélien Ibanez.
45 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
THIS IS WINE
Chambolle-Musigny, unlike the clay-rich soils of the rest of the Cote de Nuits, is unique in having predominantly limestone soils made up of a thin but iron-rich chalk and pebble topsoil overlying a hard but fissured rocky subsoil.
This page: Vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny. Photo courtesy Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), © BIVB / photography Michel Joly.
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Domaine Roux Chambolle-Musigny 2017 exclusively represented by M. Demajo Wines & Spirits
Roux Pere et Fils
Chambolle-Musigny 2017 is pure scarlet red. The opening overture is strawberry fields, forest berries, some griotte cherries. The bouquet quickly evolves into wood tones, blue flower petals, sherbet frosting, snow peas, and tangerine rind with base notes of incense, nutmeg adding an extreme finesse to an already heady perfume. The attack has an ethereally powered quality taken in by a mid-palate lightness of red cherries and bramble berries with a touch of gravel and limestone undergrowth in the finish. Wood ash, pine, clove, chocolate and candied apples speak both of the Echézeaux/Vougeot-like gravels which are not far off and the crystal purity of chalky grown fruit. The racy nature of the 2017 vintage rears its beautiful head in good order. Upon breathing impressive sillage of perfume in the allspice and French polish mahogany neck of the woods, more tart cherry schnapps to the fruit with kid skin glove smooth tannins unusual for a village-level wine. Judging from the performance this is probably a blend between the chalky upper slope floral aromatics with gravel and pebble scree (maybe Les Cras) and some deeper lower sloped silts east of the village providing the mid-palate pulpy fruitiness and spice for accompaniment.
As such this is drinking well from the moment of opening and if anyone out there needs to be inducted into the world of Burgundy, I cannot think of a better place to start both value and quality-wise than an entry-level Chambolle wine. Pinot Noir expresses itself with a finesse and poised power that belies its otherwise temperamental character. There is a touch of the unbearable lightness of being in the ethereal nature of Burgundy’s wines and Chambolle certainly is at the forefront of holding this title in abeyance.
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
Supplier details: M. Demajo Wines & Spirits has a vast selection of Burgundy wines from Roux Pere & Fils. M. Demajo Wines & Spirits, 103, Archbishop Street, Valletta. Tel 00356 2552 0000. Web demajowinesandspirits.com
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Les Sentiers
Chambolle-Musigny, unlike the clay-rich soils of the rest of the Cote de Nuits, is unique in having predominantly limestone soils made up of a thin but iron-rich chalk and pebble topsoil overlying a hard but fissured rocky subsoil. This combination is what lies beneath the delicate but intense characteristics associated with its wines as the vines have a more stressed disposition. The key appreciating feature of their wine is the contrasting finesse and strengths of grapes grown on the more firm but silky-bodied terre rouge versus the crystalline purity of fruit and aromatic lightness of chalkier terre blanc. Climats often have both soils within their boundaries but the predominance of one comes through as an identifying characteristic of a domaine holding or blend style.
Burgundy of course makes a virtue of being complicated both in its rules and delightfully in its exceptions and while Chambolle can safely be divided into red and whites soils it also has a swathe of northern climats whose main feature is structured brown clay soils more similar to their northern neighbour Morey St Denis, chief amongst which are the shared grand cru of Bonnes Mares and its underlying premier cru Les Sentiers.
This page: Domaines Albert Bichot's head office in Beaune. Photo courtesy Domaines Albert Bichot © Flore Deronzier.
48 THIS IS WINE
Domaines Albert Bichot 1re Cru Les Sentiers Chambolle-Musigny 2017
Musigny 2017. Upon opening; a delightful bouquet of strawberries and cream ripe with a rhubarb tartness, milk chocolate and vanilla bean, sporting the typical Chambolle gravel pebble scree. The entry is a graphite-inflected energetic attack of strawberries and red cherries with a mid-bodied lightness of smooth tannins ending in a tonguein-cheek tart cherry pie finish. The evolution in the glass swayed towards a light wood and floral fragrance of hibiscus and soft rose accented towards a crystalline purity in the fruit typical of chalky midslope soils.
At first glance, considering this is on the border with Morey, none of the darker clays are yet evident possibly due to the classic style of the vintage or the relative youth of the wine. Upon breathing for a few hours, the brown clay pedigree finally wakes up from its sleep as the wine sports a tenser musculature with denser mid-palate fruit and out bearings. Toasted notes of brioche buns, dark cherry compote, twigs and sticks, chocolate parfait, fresh tomato pulp all make their mark. The energy is there, typical of Bichot’s upper echelon fare, but the cadence and lush exuberant layers of secondary and tertiary notes make good on the premier cru promise. As such this is a wonderful compromise toying between the finesse of Chambolle, the power of Bonnes Mares and the broadness of Morey with an exotic streak that makes this fun and bewildering in any blind wine-tasting contest. Very Burgundian indeed.
49 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
Here we taste Albert Bichot’s 1re Cru Les Sentiers Chambolle
€110, exclusively represented by Mirachem
Supplier details: Mirachem has
a vast
selection of Burgundy wines. Mirachem, Mira Building, Triq Kan K Pirotta, B’Kara.
Tel 00356 2148 8590. Web
wine.mt
accolade of Grand
CORTON JOY
(or
in
THIS IS WINE
Cru status
Great Growths), appellations
their own right. Corton and Musigny are the only two allowed to grow both red and white wines, which says a lot about the flirtatious power and finesse of their coveted grounds,
writes Kris Bonavita.
BURGUNDY –COTE D’OR –COTE DE BEAUNE –CORTON
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Corton is the largest grand cru, and straddles three villages (Aloxe, Pernand, and Ladoix). With a diversity of climats overlying the lower part of a hill, Corton also has the unusual practice of having the name of each specific climat added to its AOC. White grapes are famously grown on the Corton Charlemagne mineral-rich limestone, higher up the Corton hill. The lower fields with a more balanced share of marls and iron soils are the perfect breeding grounds for intense but elegant Pinot Noirs. Indeed, Corton is the only red wine-producing grand cru of the Cote de Beaune in contrast to the famously red Cote De Nuits further north. The distinguishing feature is an intensity in the primaries on the red scale of fruit and berries, with a gamey secondary streak of leather and spice, touched with an overarching structure requiring a few good years in the cellar.
Right: In 1891, Maison Latour purchased Château Corton Grancey, the Cuverie and also 33 hectares of vines which were owned by the Grancey family in Aloxe-Corton, amongst which 15 hectares were Corton Grand Cru.
Château Corton Grancey is in the north of Aloxe-Corton and is surrounded by a large 18th-century walled garden and a Clos that houses part of the premier cru appellation of Aloxe-Corton Les Chaillots. It was built in 1749 by Gabriel Lebault, the grandfather of the Marquis de Cordoue (who later inherited the Château) and the President of the Burgundian Parliament. On his death, the Marquis left the property to the Comtes de Grancey who sold it to the third Louis Latour in 1891 at the height of the Phylloxera crisis. Photo courtesy Maison Louis Latour © Serge Chapuis.
Louis Latour Corton Grancey Grand Cru 2010 €146.50, exclusively represented by The Master Cellar
Here we taste Maison Louis Latour’s Corton Grancey 2010, a selected blend from five vineyards situated centrally just above the village of Aloxe: Bressandes, Perrières, Grèves, Clos du Roi and Chaumes.
The bouquet is baskets of strawberries fresh and preserved with a depth of aromas ranging from pink flowers, wood tones, cherry pie flaky pastry and vanilla bean. The attack is cassis and strawberry, with syrupy dollops of well-aged and beautifully layered flavours and textures, the heart of which is a mirrored ballroom of baroque finesse and intense delights. The finish a dramatic turn of events, with a mineralised
streak of arsenic-laced wild almond and cherry orchard blooms filling the room. Upon breathing, iron fillings, dry flowery perfume, saffron, mushrooms, tangerine rind, wild boar and fox fur show this is in its tertiary prime, with tons of upside in the beginnings of its fabulous trajectory ahead.
2010 is loyally and beautifully represented with a racy broad-shouldered structure attesting the cold classics of a Burgundian harsh winter and hail-driven spring, only to be saved by a balmy harvest, allowing the fruit that survived to capture the purity and mineral essence of the fields in a way which only a stellar vintage can do, now at the cracking dawn of its drinking age.
Supplier details: The Master Cellar has a vast selection of Burgundy wines. The Master Cellar, Oratory Street, Naxxar Tel 00356 2141 7666, and Sliema Road, Gzira, Tel 00356 2133 9224. Web themastercellar.com
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CORTON
“Other creatures receive food simply as fodder. But we take the raw materials of the earth and work with them –touch them, manipulate them, taste them, glory in their heady smells and colours, and then, through a bit of alchemy, transform them into delicious creations.”
Judith Jones
SEAFOOD CLASSICS
most people think. The important thing is to choose the freshest possible from a fishmonger you trust.
Cooking and photography Mediterranean Culinary Academy.
FRESH SEAFOOD 53
SEAFOOD
LAMPUKI TARTARE
Using simple techniques, this Lampuki tartare brings seasonal ingredients together to produce something exceptional.
1 - 2
100g Lampuki fillet, boneless
capers, in vinegar
lemon, zest
basil
chives
parsley
chilli
shallot extra virgin olive oil to taste salt to taste
Place Lampuki fillet on a board skin side down. Make an insertion at tail end between skin and flesh.
Hold knife flat against skin and slowly run knife towards head end at a slight downward angle.
Using a knife, remove all dark muscle flesh around fillet.
Chop clear white flesh into small chunks and place into a mixing bowl.
Add a small amount of salt, oil and lemon zest and mix well. Leave to marinate for a few minutes.
Finely chop herbs, capers, chilli and shallot, and add to bowl. Mix all ingredients well.
Taste tartare and correct seasoning as needed.
Serve with a few drops of olive oil.
SERVING SUGGESTION
For a brunch treat, serve on toast topped with blanched asparagus and soft poached eggs, finished with chopped chives, and salt and pepper to taste (as shown previous page).
SERVES
10g
5g
5g
5g
5g
5g
10g
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
FRESH
54
SEARED LAMPUKI
Whether served cooked or raw, Lampuki is a delicious and versatile fish, and also a sustainable choice. For this quick recipe the Lampuki fillets are seared and served with a rocket and tomato salad.
SERVES 2
1 whole Lampuki, filleted olive oil as needed salt to taste lemon juice to taste parchment paper
1. Cut a round of parchment paper to fit inside of a sauté pan. Onto this add enough olive oil to grease paper.
2. Preheat the sauté pan at medium high heat.
3. Once oil starts to shimmer, sear fillets on skin side until half of flesh has turned white.
4. Turn over and cook for 1 more minute.
5. Remove from heat and season with lemon juice. Rest for 2 minutes, then serve immediately with rocket and tomato salad.
WILD ROCKET AND TOMATO SALAD
basil,
handful of parsley,
THE DRESSING
leaves from
leaves
To make dressing, add lemon juice and zest, mustard, salt and pepper to a bowl. Whisk to combine.
Slowly whisk in olive oil to form an emulsion. Add chopped chives.
Taste for seasoning, add salt and pepper as needed.
To finish salad, combine all ingredients in a bowl and toss together with enough dressing to lightly coat.
then serve immediately with rocket and tomato salad.
FRESH SEAFOOD 56
1.
2.
3.
4.
minutes,
SERVES 1-2 FOR THE SALAD 120g wild rocket 1 large tomato, cut into 8 40g cherry tomatoes, cut in half 30g spring onion, thinly sliced 30g chili, thinly sliced small handful of
remove
stem small
remove
from stem FOR
10g Dijon mustard 5g chives, finely chopped 40ml extra virgin olive oil juice of 1/2 lemon and zest to taste salt to taste black pepper to taste
1. Add Pernod to wine with saffron.
2. Set a pot onto moderate to low heat. Add enough oil to cover the base and once hot add in chopped vegetables and aromatics; rosemary, thyme, fennel frond and orange peel.
3. Allow to sweat off for ten minutes until vegetables begin to turn a golden brown. Turn up heat and add tomato passata. Allow it to begin caramelising before adding the wine mixture. Let alcohol burn off and reduce by half, then pour in water.
4. Add gutted small fish: Skorfna, Gurnard, Eel and Kahli. Allow soup to boil for half an hour.
5. Once half hour has elapsed reduce soup to a simmer and leave for another half an hour.
6. Fillet larger fish - Red Mullet and Bogue. Add bones to the stock. Cut the fish into bite size pieces, season lightly with salt and set aside in the fridge.
7. Once time has elapsed strain liquid and discard solids.
8 Once ready to serve, reheat broth and then turn off. Drop in fish fillets, they will take seconds to cook. Divide into bowls and serve with the rouille and toasted bread.
well with fish and seafood, and bouillabaisse. Spoon a bit onto a piece of toasted bread and place it on top of the stew.
2 small cloves garlic small handful bread extra virgin olive oil as needed 1 pinch saffron fresh chili to taste lemon juice to taste salt to taste fish stock enough to soak 1 egg yolk
1. Add a good pinch of salt, chili to taste and garlic to a mortar and pestle. Mash to a fine paste.
2. Pour some simmering fish soup over bread with saffron and wait until it is absorbed.
3. Squeeze out excess stock and add to mortar and pestle, continue to mash. Add in egg yolk and combine.
4. Transfer to a bowl and slowly whisk in olive oil until emulsified. Squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice and check for seasoning.
BOUILLABAISSE
Bouillabaisse is a traditional Provençal fish stew originating from the port city of Marseille, in the South of France. Bouillabaisse was originally a stew made by Marseille fishers, using the bony rockfish which they were unable to sell to restaurants or markets. What sets bouillabaisse apart from other fish soups is the selection of Provençal herbs and spices used for the broth; the use of bony Mediterranean fish; and the way the fish are added in phases and brought to a boil. Flavoured with tomato, fennel and saffron, this classic dish can be made using a good variety of whatever is in season at the time of cooking.
stalk celery,
carrot,
onion,
spring garlic,
slices fennel bulb,
pieces orange peel
large fennel frond sprig rosemary sprig thyme
tin tomato passata
white wine
Pernod
pinch saffron
small Scorpion fish
Gurnard (Gallina)*
Moray Eel*
Saddled Bream (Kahli)*
Red Mullet/ Goat fish
Bogue (Vopi)*
All fish should be gutted and cleaned. This is only a guide of recommended fish
FRESH SEAFOOD 57 SERVES 3-4 half
sliced 1
sliced 1
diced 2
sliced 2
diced 4
1
1/2
150ml
50ml
good
2
(Skorfna)* 2 small
1/2
1
1
(Trill)* 1
*
ROUILLE
SPAGHETTI ALLE VONGOLE
Spaghetti alle vongole, or spaghetti with clams, is popular throughout Italy and especially in Campania, where it is part of traditional Neapolitan cuisine. Traditionally the dish is prepared in two ways, with in bianco, with oil, garlic, parsley, and occasionally a splash of white wine; or in rosso with tomatoes.
SERVES 2 100g spaghetti (dry) 10 clams, cleaned 100ml olive oil
1 green garlic, chopped 1 lemon small bunch parsley, chopped small bunch mint leaves, chopped 160ml white wine chilli, chopped to taste
1. Heat a pot of heavily salted water to a rolling boil.
2. In a sauté pan add chopped garlic and half olive oil, cook on a low heat until garlic is soft but has not developed any colour (around 3 minutes).
3. Add zest of half lemon and chopped chilli. Cook for 1 minute.
4. Add clams and wine, reduce by half.
5. Once clams have opened remove from pan and set aside.
6. Cook pasta to almost al dente. Add to pan of wine and aromatics with a ladleful of pasta water.
7. Reduce and cook while stirring constantly.
8. When little liquid remains, add remainder of olive oil and toss to emulsify into sauce.
9. Once pasta is cooked through, add clams and chopped herbs and serve immediately.
Recipes are from The Mediterranean Culinary Academy's collection developed by their chef instructors. For more recipes, or to book a cooking class visit www.mcamalta.com or email contact@mcamalta.com. Share your creations by tagging @mca_malta or sending MCA a photo on their socials.
FRESH SEAFOOD 58
A Short History of Chocolate
CHOCOLATE GANACHE TART
Cacao has been consumed in some form since the 19th-11th century BC in Mesoamerica by the Olmec civilization, and by the Maya and Aztecs who made chocolate beverages. But until the 16th century, no European had ever heard of cocoa. Christopher Columbus encountered the cocoa bean on his fourth mission to the Americas in 1502, when he and his crew stole a large native canoe that contained cocoa beans among other goods for trade. While Columbus brought cocoa beans back with him to Spain, chocolate made no impact until Spanish friars introduced it to the Spanish court where it became a court favorite, served as a beverage with added sugar and honey to counteract the natural bitterness. It would take another couple of hundred years though for chocolate to reach mass appeal –and affordability. Prized by royal courts across Europe, production costs remained high. Then in 1815, Dutch chemist Coenraad van Houten introduced alkaline salts to chocolate, which reduced its bitterness, and in 1828, he created a press to remove half the natural fat (cocoa butter) from chocolate liquor, which made chocolate cheaper to produce and more consistent in quality. This innovation introduced the modern era of chocolate and would pave the way for mass-produced chocolate. By 1847 the English chocolatier Joseph Fry had developed a way to make moldable chocolate by mixing cocoa powder, sugar and melted cocoa butter, and his chocolate factory, Fry's of Bristol, would make the first mass-produced, Fry's Chocolate Cream.
Nearly twenty years later, an indulgent way to enjoy chocolate would be developed in Paris - ganache, or crème ganache. Ganache is one of the most versatile of concoctions - it can be used as a glaze, as a filling for a tart, or as a sauce for chocolate fondue, to fill cakes and macaroons, to make sweets such as truffles and gianduja, and to decorate pastries. In 1860 the French playwright-turnedconfectioner Paul Siraudin opened a confectionery at 17 rue de la Paix in Paris. According to popular culture, ganache would take its name from a handling error by one of the apprentice chocolate makers, when, having mistakenly poured boiling cream on chocolate, he was called a ganache (moron) by his master. The mixture, far from being unusable, took the nickname of its inventor, “ganache”. Whether this story is entirely true or not, ganache has been popular ever since the late 1870s.
Cooking Mediterranean Culinary Academy. Photography this page, Ruth Georgiev. Photography overleaf Anton.
CHOCOLATE
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CHOCOLATE 61
TART
Combine with your fingers to obtain a coarse, sandy texture.
Incorporate egg yolk into dough and add ice water in small additions, combining between each addition, until dough comes together.
Gently knead until it comes together.
Shape into a disk and wrap well with cling film. Chill well to allow pastry to relax and butter to chill.
Roll dough out onto a floured surface to just under 3mm in thickness.
Mold dough into desired shape in greased baking dish.
Fold edges over sides and trim excess.
Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least one hour. Overnight is best.
Line pie pan with baking paper and pour in baking beans.
Bake in preheated oven at 200C for 20 minutes.
Remove beans and baking paper. Bake for an additional 10-12 minutes.
Once nicely browned, remove from the tart shell and cool on a cooling rack.
Bring cream to boil over high heat in a medium sized saucepan.
Pour over a container with chopped chocolate and allow to sit for 3 minutes.
Stir to combine until mixture is smooth and homogenous.
Pour room temperature ganache to cover tart base, using a rubber spatula to flatten surface.
Chill to firm ganache but bring out to temper for at least half an hour before serving.
TO DECORATE
chocolate ganache tart may be finished and decorated to your taste. Overleaf –decorated with forest fruit, freshly cut figs and finished with chopped pistachios. This page –decorated with Maltesers and finely chopped nuts, and served with fresh strawberries.
CHOCOLATE 62 CHOCOLATE GANACHE
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8.
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The
20g sugar 5g salt 25-30ml ice water 120g butter, cubed 1 egg yolk SWEET PIE PASTRY 150g good quality dark chocolate, chopped 150ml cream CHOCOLATE GANACHE
TASTE THE QUALITY
THE EY EXHIBITION
Cezanne at Tate Modern
Tate Modern’s current once-in-a-generation exhibition of paintings, watercolours and drawings by Paul Cézanne (1839-1906) is a magnificent homage to the artist famously referred to as the “greatest of us all” by Claude Monet. Cézanne remains a pivotal figure in modern painting who gave license to generations of artists to break the rules. Created amid a rapidly accelerating world, his works focus on the local and the everyday, concentrating on the artist’s own personal experiences to make sense of the chaos and uncertainty of modern life. Photography courtesy Tate Modern.
The EY Exhibition: Cezanne brings together 80 carefully selected works fromcollections in Europe, Asia, North and South America, giving audiences in the UK their first opportunity in over 25 years to explore the breadth of Cézanne’s career. It features key examples of his iconic still life paintings, Provençale landscapes, portraits and bather scenes, including over 20 works never seen in the UK before such as The Basket of Apples c.1893 (The Art Institute of Chicago), Mont SainteVictoire 1902-06 (Philadelphia Museum of Art) and Still Life with Milk Pot, Melon, and Sugar Bowl 1900-06 (private collection). New research into the colours, compositions and techniques used in these works reveal how the artist’s bold approach challenged conventions and in ways that continue to influence painters working today.
64 EXHIBITION
“I will astonish Paris with an apple.”
Paul Cézanne
Visitors to Tate Modern will discover the events, places and relationships that shaped Cézanne’s life and work. The exhibition tells the story of a young ambitious painter from the southern city of Aix-en-Provence, determined to succeed as an artist in metropolitan Paris in the 1860s, yet constantly rejected by the art establishment. It reveals how he befriended Camille Pissarro and associated with the impressionists in the 1870s, but soon distanced himself from their circle and the Parisian art scene to forge his own path, returning to his native Provence in relentless pursuit of his own radical style.
65 EXHIBITION
Top left: Paul Cezanne, Still Life with Apples,1893-1894. The J Paul Getty Museum. Bottom left: Paul Cezanne, Bathers, c.1894-1905. Presented by the National Gallery, purchased with a special grant and the aid of the Max Rayne Foundation, 1964. © The National Gallery, London. Above: Paul Cezanne, Bathers, 1874-75.The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Below: Paul Cezanne, The François Zola Dam (Mountains in Provence), 1877-8. © Amgueddfa Cymru – National Museum Wales.
The exhibition tracesCézanne’s artistic development from early paintings made in his twenties through to works completed in the final months of his life. Highlights include a room of outstanding paintings depicting the limestone mountain Sainte-Victoire, charting the dramatic evolution of his style through this single motif. Another gallery brings together several magnificent examples of Cézanne’s bather paintings, a lifelong subject for the artist, including The National Gallery’s Bathers 1894–1905, one of his largest and most celebrated paintings created in the final stage of his career.
While Cézanne is often mythologised as a solitary figure, the exhibition spotlights the relationships central to his life, particularly
his wife Marie-Hortense Fiquet and their son Paul, immortalised in paintings. It examinesCézanne’s intense relationship with childhood friend Émile Zola and reveals how peers such as Monet and Pissarro were among the first to appreciate his unique vision. Many great artists even collected Cézanne’s works, with previous owners including Paul Gauguin, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Henry Moore. This is one not to miss if you are visting London – up to March.
The EY Exhibition: Cezanne is organised by Tate Modern and the Art Institute of Chicago. Tate Modern, until 12 March 2023. Open daily 10.00 – 18.00. For public information call +44(0)20 7887 8888, visit tate.org.uk or follow @Tate #Cézanne
Top: Paul Cezanne, Portrait of the Artist’s Son, 1881-2. Paris, Musée de l’Orangerie, Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume Collection.© Photo RMN–Franck Raux.
Left: Paul Cezanne, Sous-Bois, 1894. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Wallis Foundation Fund in memory of Hal B. Wallis. Far left: Paul Cezanne, Still Life with Fruit Dish,1879-80. © The Museum of Modern Art, New York/Scala, Florence.
66 EXHIBITION
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Working out regularly really does change the brain biology, and it is not just “go walk and you will just feel better.” Regular exercise, especially cardio, does change the brain. Contrary to what some may think, the brain is a very plastic organ. Not only are new neuronal connections formed every day, but also new cells are generated in important areas of the brain. One key area is the hippocampus, which is involved in learning and memory and regulating negative emotions. New research also shows that individuals with mental-health problems are a high-priority group to monitor for signs of faster aging –such as hearing impairment, motor problems, and cognitive decline –as well as chronic diseases.
HOW EXERCISE KEEPS YOUR BRAIN HEALTHY AND PROTECTS IT AGAINST DEPRESSION AND ANXIETY
THE EXERCISE PILL
As with many other physicians, recommending physical activity to patients was just a doctor chore for me –until a few years ago. That was because I myself was not very active. Over the years, as I picked up boxing and became more active, I got firsthand experience of positive impacts on my mind. I also started researching the effects of dance and movement therapies on trauma and anxiety in refugee children, and I learned a lot more about the neurobiology of exercise, writes Arash Javanbakht, Associate Professor of Psychiatry, Wayne State University. Photography Milo Weiler.
Iam a psychiatrist and neuroscientist researching the neurobiology of anxiety and how our interventions change the brain. I have begun to think of prescribing exercise as telling patients to take their “exercise pills.”
Now knowing the importance of exercising, almost all my patients commit to some level of exercise, and I have seen how it benefits several areas of their life and livelihood.
We all have heard details on how exercise improves musculoskeletal, cardiovascular, metabolic and other aspects of health. What you may not know is how this happens within the brain.
BRAIN BIOLOGY AND GROWTH
Working out regularly really does change the brain biology, and it is not just “go walk and you will just feel better.” Regular exercise, especially cardio, does change the brain.
Contrary to what some may think, the brain is a very plastic organ. Not only are new neuronal connections formed every
day, but also new cells are generated in important areas of the brain. One key area is the hippocampus, which is involved in learning and memory and regulating negative emotions.
A molecule called brain-derived neurotrophic factor helps the brain produce neurons, or brain cells. A variety of aerobic and high-intensity interval training exercises significantly increase BDNF levels. There is evidence from animal research that these changes are at epigenetic level, which means these behaviors affect how genes are expressed, leading to changes in the neuronal connections and function.
Moderate exercise also seems to have anti-inflammatory effects, regulating the immune system and excessive inflammation. This is important, given the new insight neuroscience is gaining into the potential role of inflammation in anxiety and depression.
Finally, there is evidence for the positive effects of exercise on the neurotransmitters – brain chemicals that send signals between neurons – dopamine and endorphins. Both of these are involved in positive mood and motivation.
HEALTH & FITNESS
69
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EXERCISE IMPROVES CLINICAL SYMPTOMS OF ANXIETY AND DEPRESSION
Researchers also have examined the effects of exercise on measurable brain function and symptoms of depression and anxiety. Exercise improves memory function, cognitive performance and academic achievement. Studies also suggest regular exercise has a moderate effect on depressive symptoms even comparable to psychotherapy. For anxiety disorders, this effect is mild to moderate in reducing anxiety symptoms. In a study that I conducted with others among refugee children, we found a reduction in symptoms of anxiety and PTSD among children who attended eight to 12 weeks of dance and movement therapies.
Exercise could even potentially desensitize people to physical symptoms of anxiety. That is because of the similarity between bodily effects of exercise, specifically high-intensity exercise, and those of anxiety, including shortness of breath, heart palpitation and chest tightness. Also, by reducing baseline heart rate, exercise might lead to signaling of a calmer internal physical environment to the brain.
It is important to note that the majority of studies examined the effects of exercise in isolation and not in combination with other effective treatments of clinical anxiety and depression, such as psychotherapy and medication. For the same reason, I am not suggesting exercise as a replacement for necessary mental health care of depression or anxiety, but as part of it, and for prevention.
There are other perks besides the neurobiological impacts of exercise. When going out for a walk, one gets more exposure to sunlight, fresh air and nature. One of my patients befriended a neighbor during her regular walks, leading to regular taco Tuesdays with that new friend. I have made some great friends at my boxing gym, who are not only my motivators, but also a great supporting social network. One might pick a dog as their running mate, and another might meet a new date, or enjoy the high energy at the gym. Exercise can also function as a mindfulness practice and a respite from common daily stressors, and from our electronic devices and TV.
By increasing energy and fitness level, exercise can also improve self-image and self-esteem.
71 HEALTH & FITNESS
AT ESPLORA Date: 28th October (18:00 – 22:30) 29th October - 2nd November (10:00 – 17:00) Esplora Interactive Science Centre was partfinanced by ERDF. Esplora was declared to be an Emblematic Project by the EU Commission tickets AVAILABLE FROM SHOWSHAPPENING.COM Terms and Conditions may apply. Kindly visit our website for more information. Scan the QR code for more information
10 October is World Mental Health Day, an international day for global mental health education, awareness and advocacy against social stigma. Linking together mental and physical health problems may seem surprising, however, mental health has an impact on physical health and vice versa. For example, older adults with physical health conditions such as heart disease have higher rates of depression than those who are healthy. The mental health of older adults can be improved through promoting Active and Healthy Ageing.
PRACTICAL WAYS FOR A BUSY LIFE
So how can you find time to exercise, especially with all the additional time demands of the pandemic, and the limitations imposed by the pandemic such as limited access to the gyms?
Pick something you can love. Not all of us have to run on a treadmill (I actually hate it). What works for one person might not work for another. Try a diverse group of activities and see which one you will like more: running, walking, dancing, biking, kayaking, boxing, weights, swimming. You can even rotate between some or make seasonal changes to avoid boredom. It does not even have to be called an exercise. Whatever ups your heartbeat, even dancing with the TV ads or playing with the kids.
Use positive peer pressure to your advantage. I have created a group messaging for the boxing gym because at 5:30 p.m., after a busy day at the clinic, I might have trouble finding the motivation to go to the gym or do an online workout. It is easier when friends send a message they are going and motivate you. And even if you do not feel comfortable going to a gym during the pandemic, you can join an online workout together.
Do not see it as all or none. It does not have to be a onehour drive to and from the gym or biking trail for a one-hour workout vs. staying on the couch. I always say to my patients: “One more step is better than none, and three squats are better than no squats.” When less motivated, or in the beginning, just be nice to yourself. Do as much as possible. Three minutes of dancing with your favorite music still counts.
Merge it with other activities: 15 minutes of walking while on the phone with a friend, even around the house, is still being active.
When hesitant or low on motivation, ask yourself: “When was the last time I regretted doing it?”
Although it can help, exercise is not the ultimate weight loss strategy; diet is. One large brownie might be more calories than one hour of running. Don’t give up on exercise if you are not losing weight. It is still providing all the benefits we discussed.
Even if you do not feel anxious or depressed, still take the exercise pills. Use them for protecting your brain. This article first appeared on The Conversation.
73 HEALTH & FITNESS
RETIRE TO A LIFE OF LUXURY AND COMFORT IN THE HEART OF SLIEMA
The Imperial offers an exclusive and professionally managed retirement opportunity located in the heart of Sliema. Experience the luxurious facilities, companionship of others, a multitude of activities and top class dining experience. You can maintain your daily routines and live independently but with the peace of mind that help is at hand should you require additional support. We will support and enable you to lead a full and active lifestyle.
Tastefully decorated in a traditional style, the home houses single rooms, double rooms and suites with 6,000 square meters of facilities including:
a state-of-the-art wellness centre;
a heated indoor hydrotherapy swimming pool;
a three-storey underground car park;
coffee shop;
a hair and beauty salon; and
an onsite convenience shop.
At the Imperial we will support you and advise you in making the best decision for you or your loved one. Whether you are completely independent or require round-the-clock care, we will tailor your stay with us to your specific needs.
Ultimately, what we want is for our residents to live happy, healthy and independent lives with us. Our dedicated team is waiting to meet you so why not contact us today to make an appointment to come and view our beautiful home.
GETTING THE CARE YOU DESERVE
OPEN ALSO FOR REHABILITATION AND SHORT STAYS
For more information: info@theimperialmalta.com The Imperial, Rudolph Street, Sliema, SLM 1279 | 2145 6440 | www.theimperial.com.mt A member of St George’s Care Limited – LIVE LIFE WITH US
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Independent and Active Ageing
The Imperial and Casa Antonia, both operated by St George's Care Ltd, are synonymous with quality care and homes that genuinely care for their residents. The care homes support independent life and active aging among a plethora of excellent geriatric services. We strongly believe that life does not come to halt when one moves into a care home, indeed, we promote the opposite. Residents moving into our care homes are given the opportunity to ‘Live the life they choose’, writes Dr Sarah Cassar, Managing Director of St George’s Care.
Our dedicated activity organisers create an enjoyable and varied daily program of regular activities. We encourage and offer an active social life and events program which we believe provides companionship and opportunity to stimulate body and mind. In addition to the popular weekly favorites like bingo, mass, live music, cinema nights and crafts we also include cultural excursions and wine-tasting events.
We value bringing the outside world into our care homes and to link our residents with the local community. We recently invited the Hamrun Spartans Football Club to come and show their skills and challenge a few of our residents to a one-to-one playoff.
Teatru Salesjan performs weekly rehearsals at the Imperial which residents can attend giving them an opportunity to see some ‘behind the stage work’ as well. The Malta Cultural Institute hosts monthly concerts at the Imperial allowing our residents the opportunity to see a varied program of performing arts. The Ibstock Place School Singers UK will be performing at The Imperial in October.
We work with the Malta Dementia Society which hosts Dancing to Dementia sessions, a new initiative to promote communication with residents living with dementia.
We believe that no matter your age, sports and fitness activities should be encouraged on a regular basis. An active body hosts a healthy mind and spirit. We provide weekly yoga and meditation sessions, aquarobics, chair pilates, and keep-fit exercise classes.
Residents are encouraged not only to partake in activities but also to present them. For Pink October we hosted a bake sale with residents manning the stalls and helping to raise funds for this worthy cause. On a weekly basis, we have residents leading exercise groups and informative sessions talking about past memories and experiences. In November we will be hosting an art exhibition displaying works by Perit Jospeh
Ellul Vincenti and his wife Margaret Ellul Vincenti which will be open to the public for viewing.
Our two-decade-long experience and expertise ensure that residents can enjoy high standards and genuine dedication from carers while staying in charge of their lives for the longest time possible, as they enjoy their blissful golden age.
For more information and to arrange for a visit to one of our welcoming residential homes, please call on +356 2145 6440 for The Imperial, Sliema or on +356 2149 6277 for Casa Antonia, Balzan.
PROMOTION 75
RESTORING NATURE IS NOT A SILVER BULLET FOR GLOBAL WARMING, WE MUST CUT EMISSIONS OUTRIGHT
No More Excuses
Restoring degraded environments, such as by planting trees, is often touted as a solution to the climate crisis. But our new research shows this, while important, is no substitute for preventing fossil fuel emissions to limit global warming, write researchers Kate Dooley and Zebedee Nicholls, at The Climate and Energy College, The University of Melbourne.
We calculated the maximum potential for responsible nature restoration to absorb carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. And we found that, combined with ending deforestation by 2030, this could reduce global warming 0.18C by 2100. In comparison, current pledges from countries put us on track for 1.9-2C warming. This is far from what’s needed to mitigate the catastrophic impacts of climate change, and is well above the 1.5C goal of the Paris Agreement. And it pours cold water on the idea we can offset our way out of ongoing global warming. The priority remains rapidly phasing out fossil fuels, which have contributed 86% of all CO₂ emissions in the past decade. Deforestation must also end, with land use, deforestation and forest degradation contributing 11% of global emissions.
ENVIRONMENT 76
Main photography Sebastien Goldberg, Amazonia, Brazil. Photography this page James Cheung.
“If working apart we are a force powerful to destabilise our planet, surely working together we are powerful enough to save it… in my lifetime I’ve witnessed a terrible decline. In yours, you could and should witness a wonderful recovery.”
77 ENVIRONMENT
David Attenborough
“You knock down a rainforest tree, and you get a lot of money from the timber which you sell. Then you deal so with the land. You put crops on the land and get another reward. And then you clear that furthermore for cattle. So it’s very profitable in the short term. But that rainforest is one of the key elements in the whole of the weather patterns of the world. And if you knock down the whole of the Amazon rainforest, the whole of the climatic systems of rainfall and other climatic factors will be –go off balance. And who knows what effect that will have on the world.”
David Attenborough
ENVIRONMENT 78
THE HYPE AROUND NATURE RESTORATION Growing
commitments to net-zero climate targets have seen an increasing focus on nature restoration to remove CO₂ from the atmosphere, based on claims nature can provide over one-third of climate mitigation needed by 2030. However, the term “nature restoration” often encompasses a wide range of activities, some of which actually degrade nature. This includes monoculture tree plantations, which destroy biodiversity, increase pollution and remove land available for food production.
Indeed, we find the hype around nature restoration tends to obscure the importance of restoring degraded landscapes, and conserving existing forests and other ecosystems already storing carbon. This is why we applied a “responsible development” framework to nature restoration for our study.
Broadly, this means restoration activities must follow ecological principles, respect land rights and minimise changes to land use.
This requires differentiating between activities that restore degraded lands and forests (such as ending native forest harvest or increasing vegetation in grazing lands), compared to planting a new forest. The distinction matters. Creating new tree plantations means changing the way land is used. This presents risks to biodiversity and has potential trade-offs, such as removing important farmland.
THE POTENTIAL OF NATURE RESTORATION
Wesuggest this presents the maximum “responsible” land restoration potential that’s available for climate mitigation. We found this would result in a median 378 billion tonnes of CO₂ removed from the atmosphere between 2020 and 2100. That might sound like a lot but, for perspective, global CO₂ equivalent emissions were 59 billion tonnes in 2019 alone. This means the removals we could expect from nature restoration over the rest of the century is the same as just six years worth of current emissions. Based on this CO₂ removal potential, we assessed the impacts on peak global warming and century-long temperature reduction. We found nature restoration only marginally lowers global warming – and any climate benefits are dwarfed by the scale of ongoing fossil fuel emissions, which could be over 2,000 billion tonnes of CO₂ between now and 2100, under current policies. On the other hand, restoring degraded lands does not displace existing land uses. Restoration enhances, rather than changes, biodiversity and existing agriculture.
But let’s say we combine this potential with a deep decarbonisation scenario, where renewable energy is scaled up rapidly and we reach net zero emissions globally by 2050. Then, we calculate the planet would briefly exceed a 1.5C temperature rise, before declining to 1.25-1.5C by 2100. Of course, phasing out fossil fuels while restoring degraded lands and forests must also be coupled with ending deforestation. Otherwise, the emissions from deforestation will wipe out any gains from carbon removal. Given this, we also explored the impact of phasing out ongoing land-use emissions, to reach net-zero in the land sector by 2030. As with restoration, we found halting deforestation by 2030 has a very small impact on global temperatures, and would reduce warming by only around 0.08C over the century. This was largely because our baseline scenario already assumed governments will take some action. Increasing deforestation would lead to much larger warming. Taken together – nature restoration plus stopping deforestation – end-of-century warming could be reduced by 0.18C.
ENVIRONMENT 79
How to reduce your carbon footprint? Carbon footprint is a concept used to quantify the impact of an activity, a person or a country on climate change. Your carbon footprint depends on production and consumption choices. For example, in the case of transport, on average taking a plane emits 285g of carbon per kilometre, compared to 104g for a car and 14g for a train. The same goes for the type of food you eat or jeans that you buy. So what can you do? Try to choose cycling, walking and public transit over driving wherever possible. Support local agriculture and seasonal produce. Opt for more plant-based meals and less meat and dairy products. Beef, lamb and cheese have some of the largest carbon footprints. More importantly, don’t waste food and purchase products which will end up being binned. Reduce energy consumption in the home –something simple did you know that the ‘dry’ mode on your AC remote can use up to 30% less energy than ‘cool’ mode in summer?
IS THIS ENOUGH?
If we enter a low-emissions pathway to limit global warming to 1.5C this century, we expect global temperature rise to peak in the next one to two decades. As our research shows, nature restoration will unlikely be done quickly enough to offset the fossil emissions and notably reduce these global peak temperatures. But let us be clear. We are not suggesting nature restoration is fruitless, nor unimportant. In our urgency to mitigate climate change, every fraction of a degree of warming we can prevent counts. Restoring degraded landscapes is also crucial for planetary health – the idea human health and flourishing natural systems are inextricably linked.What’s more, protecting existing ecosystems – such as intact forests, peatlands and wetlands – has an important immediate climate benefit, as it avoids releasing the carbon they store. What our research makes clear is that it’s dangerous to rely on restoring nature to meet our climate targets, rather than effectively and drastically phasing out fossil fuels. We see this reliance in, for instance, carbon offset schemes. Retaining the possibility of limiting warming to 1.5C requires rapid reductions in fossil fuel emissions before 2030 and global net-zero emissions by 2050, with some studies even calling for 2040.
We now need new international cooperation and agreements to stop expansion of fossil fuels globally and for governments to strengthen their national climate pledges under the Paris Agreements ratcheting mechanism. Promises of carbon dioxide removals via land cannot justify delays in these necessary actions. This article first appeared on The Conversation.
ENVIRONMENT 80
ENVIRONMENT 81
Using the bus has just become even more attractive with the service now being made available for free for all users. This is an added advantage to the fact that mass transit can reduce emissions when replacing trips by private cars and the time on the bus replaces stressful moments searching for parking.
ENVIRONMENT 82
Reducing Our Transport Carbon Footprint
As we continue to return to life as we knew it pre-COVID, vehicles on the road and the need to travel likewise continue to go up. As lifestyles changed and slowed down during the pandemic and the lockdowns that accompanied it, our planet started to heal. Less traffic on the land, sea, and in the skies led to less air pollution and nature becoming more active. However, a few months into “normality” and we are practically back to the emission levels of pre-2019, despite the insight into how our transport choices impact our climate and planet, writes the team at Transport Malta.
Almost a quarter of our GHG (greenhouse gas) emissions in Malta come from the transport sector where road vehicles contribute to the largest share. This is unsurprising, considering the ever-increasing number of vehicles on Maltese roads as well as the general public’s attitude towards private vehicles. However, with increased awareness of the challenges that our planet is facing, it is now high time that individuals start rethinking their mobility choices rather than opting for private vehicles, as if by default.
1 ELECTRIFICATION
Whilst it is understandable that personal transport cannot be completely replaced by alternative modes, it should be highlighted that an average petrol car emits about 4.6 metric tons of carbon dioxide per year. In consideration of this, investing in an electric vehicle goes beyond substantial savings in maintenance and running costs. To further encourage this shift to the electrification of transport, Government is providing attractive grants which make purchasing an EV even more achievable. The zero tailpipe emissions can then be further enhanced if the vehicle is charged using renewable energy sources where the on-road footprint would be negligible.
2 PEDESTRIANS AND CYCLISTS OVER CARS
Active transport ranks as the ultimate in benefits both for the planet and the commuter. Walking and cycling for short distances can easily replace car trips, using the commute to enjoy the outdoors, relieve stress, socialise and improve general fitness levels. This earliest form of transport is easy to shift to locally where services and retail are still concentrated in urban cores.
3 TAKE THE BUS
Using the bus has just become even more attractive with the service now being made available for free for all users. This is an added advantage to the fact that mass transit can reduce emissions when replacing trips by private cars and the time on the bus replaces stressful moments searching for parking.
4 COMBINE AND REDUCE TRIPS
Thinking ahead and combining trips reduces kilometres traveled, time, fuel, and emissions. The COVID-19 pandemic has been a stark realisation that a meeting, that would take a 20-minute or so drive to and from, can as effectively be carried out virtually without the need to travel. Similarly, shifting a conference to an online platform can reduce the carbon footprint by 94%.
5 CARPOOL
When a private car remains the best option for a trip, finding people who are going to the same place and sharing the vehicle (and the emissions), makes the impact per person smaller. Adopting this practice is a great step in challenging the culture of everyone wanting to drive their own car everywhere.
Alternative options to private cars are available and multiple. However, it is understandable that private transport cannot be eliminated or replaced for everyone and for all trips. Here, the concept of multimodality is encouraged. When a private car is essential, this does not necessarily have to be the sole mode of transport for the whole trip. Combining with a bus ride, a walk, or a bicycle ride can reduce costs, time, and emissions. The critical aspect lies in making informed and flexible transport choices, and shifting away from private cars as the first and only option for all our transport needs.
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THE RUNAWAY VASE
The short story of an 'ordinary' Chinese vase that sold for 4,000 times its estimated value after a furious bidding war at an auction house in Fontainebleau.
Photography courtesy Maison Osenat.
This October, at a Furniture and Works of Art sale, on a Saturday afternoon at the Fontainebleau arm of Osenat Auction House, at Hôtel d'Albe, a bidding war erupted over a porcelain and polychrome enamel object, measuring 54 cm high, and 40 cm wide. Lot 36, listed as a "Large Tianqiuping porcelain and polychrome enamel vase, in the style of the bluewhite, with globular body and long cylindrical neck, decorated with nine fierce dragons and clouds (mark under the base) - China - Republic of China - good condition", was estimated to sell at €1500 to €2000. Tianqiuping refers to this specific shape of vase in Chinese, which translates as 'heavenly globe vase'.
That afternoon there were ten people in the room and fifteen on the telephone. By the time the frenetic bidding had come to an end, the vase had been sold for €7.7m, nearly 4,000 times its estimate, purchased by a Chinese buyer following the sale by telephone. With seller's fees the final price was €9.12m. The seller was a 59-year-old woman who lives abroad. She inherited the vase from her mother who lived in Brittany, who in turn had inherited the vase from her mother who was a big Paris collector in the last century. Without even having seen the vase, she contacted Osenat in Paris to offer the object for sale. The rest is incredible auction history and the stuff dreams are made of.
AUCTION 84
2022 23-27 NOVEMBER MALTA FAIRS & CONVENTIONS CENTRE (MFCC) malta book festival 2022
REMEMBERING DAPHNE
“Some birds are not meant to be caged, that's all. Their feathers are too bright, their songs too sweet and wild. So you let them go, or when you open the cage to feed them they somehow fly out past you. And the part of you that knows it was wrong to imprison them in the first place rejoices, but still, the place where you live is that much more drab and empty for their departure.”
TRIBUTE
This page: Robert Havell (1793 - 1878) after John James Audubon (1785 - 1851), American Flamingo, 1838. Hand-colored engraving and aquatint on Whatman wove paper. National Gallery of Art, Washington DC.
Mother, wife, sister, daughter, friend, writer, journalist, blogger and anti-corruption activist.
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Stephen King, Rita Hayworth and Shawshank Redemption
DAPHNE ANNE CARUANA GALIZIA (NÉE VELLA) 26 AUGUST 1964 - 16 OCTOBER 2017
MOB: 9989 6286 FACEBOOK GIO. BATTA DELIA 1901 EXCLUSIVELY AT 7, REPUBLIC STREET, VALLETTA Gio. Batta Delia ESTABLISHED 1901