16 minute read
This is wine: SAINT ESTÈPHE IN CHRISTMAS
FRANCE – BORDEAUX – LEFT BANK – HAUT MEDOC – ST ESTÈPHE
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Taken from the fourth chapter in This is wine: its storied place and taste.
Tour Pey-Berland, Bordeaux - Saint-André Cathedral's original 12th century tower was insufficiently squat to support the weight of the tenor bell and in 1440 a dedicated free-standing tower was built next to the cathedral.
Photograph Clement Roy.
St Estèphe is the largest appellation and on paper has some of the least classified chateaux, only five 1855 Classifications of the major Medoc regions, but in terms of quality and appreciation, it holds its own with the best. Perhaps what best describes the region is not what it gives us just in terms of wine, but the courage and ambitious flair in winemaking that some winegrowers are bestowed with to compete with more enshrined chateaux, writes Kris Bonavita.
Château Cos d'Estournel, one of the best producers in the Medoc, classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. Top: The majestic pagodas of Cos d'Estournel. Bottom: The cellar, with vintages arranged like books under the watch of stone elephants.
Photography courtesy Château Cos d’Estournel.
Château Lafon-Rochet in St Estèphe dates back to the 17th century. Bottom: Château de Pez, perhaps the oldest Bordeaux wine-making estate in St Estèphe, created in 1452.
Photography TOP courtesy Château Lafon-Rochet, photographer Mathieu Garçon. Photography BOTTOM courtesy Château de Pez, photographer Gunther Vicente.
This is Saint Estèphe
Above, from left to right: Château Coutelin-Merville, Château de Pez, Pagodes de Cos, Château Lafon-Rochet, Château Meyney, Château Ormes de Pez, Château Haut Baradieu.
Photography FIRSTMagazine Malta.
These wines have been chosen for their popular ratings, acclaim among wine critics, medium price point, rich terroir and/or great vintages. Our team have been given complimentary bottles from local suppliers to give our view on how they best express and characterize the various styles of the appellation.
Saint Estèphe is chiefly a Cabernet Sauvignon blend with the most middling balance of Left Bank appellations in the use of luscious Merlot and sometimes other grape varieties. The large proportion of gravel in its soils means that Saint Estèphe is known historically as having some of the strongest most austere wines that need aging. However, over the recent decades, a switch to more Merlot on the substantial clay that is equally present has resulted in softer wines approachable at a younger age. Saint Estèphe is known for its signature minerality and exotic spices over and above the serene structure of powerful tannins that verge on the dark fruit with age. Its paucity of classified chateaux means that prices are much more approachable than its hallowed neighbours next door with relatively delicious fare.
Vintage is important in terms of personal taste and structure with some of the hotter years producing relatively better wines since the clay ensures the vines still have access to water, where the gravels provide structure and help in ripening in wetter vintages. The wines have been placed in order of price, but roughly in order of full to more medium mouthfeel with highlights in character, style or vintage: Meyney 2012 is a tour de force of concentrated intensity with a multi-faceted structure; Lafon-Rochet 2016 is the quintessential vintage of left bank strength and elegance; Pagodes de Cos 2016 is a decadent blend of spice, wood, earth and fruit; De Pez 2015 is a luscious combination of fruit and earthy flavours and aromas; Ormes de Pez 2017 is a spice and wood confection that is readily approachable; Haut Baradieu 2010 is a forest berried confection with great structure; Coutelin-Merville 2012 is a lighter blend of varieties with all the panache.
Bordeaux wines in the 40 to 70 euro price range when well-rated have all the complexity and depth of much more expensive wines but are still enjoyable as being a cut above more mass-produced cheaper wines. Saint Estèphe has a constellation of historic chateaux that consistently produce wines enjoyed for their good value high calibre. A further ring of cru bourgeois chateaux help keep up this reputation. As such the signature combination of clay, gravel, sand and limestone mean that wines come with a range of strengths and enduring elements, however wine style is important in so far as winemakers choose to veer towards a cru that is more easily accessible as a young vintage in contrast to ones that need patient aging before reaching their full expression. In practice, Saint Estèphe wines offer a combination of both. In general, the Vivino popular ratings tend to be overly critical, where the wine critic ratings ironically can be more spot on.
Young to medium aged red wines should be decanted for a few minutes to a few hours (depending on personal preference and age and type of vintage) to increase aeration and allow the wine to soften and unfurl its character and bouquet (it can be well worth the wait especially with full-bodied wines). Red wine should be served at 15 degrees.
The tasting notes are deliberately by a wine aficionado not by a professional sommelier. If wine is good it should be distinguishable to amateurs otherwise there would be no public interest.
Château Meyney 2012.
Photography FIRSTMagazine Malta.
Château Meyney 2012 Cru Bourgeois available from Attard & Co. Wines.
Terroir: 35-year-old vines (some are close to 100) on gravel and sand on a thick blue clay subsoil near Montrose.
TASTING NOTES: BAY OF CAPRI – OVEN-ROASTED PULLED PORK WITH APPLE AND PLUM CHUTNEY.
Château Meyney 2012 is dark garnet blushing on the crimson. The bouquet is a rich mulled cocktail of cherry, plum and blueberry laced in candied orange peel, chocolate, cinnamon and vanilla bean with base notes of caramelized creamy molasses and wet earth in tow. The tertiary spice notes and secondary wood notes are well integrated and woven succinctly into the plush fruit aromas in the shape of log cabin fire smoke and elderflower berry. Upon tasting the attack is a full range of plum, cherry and dark berry with a cavernous serene depth. A mid-palate full-bodied sweetness and soft tannins and acidity end in a polished finish. A pulsating core of autumn fruit with sultry winter spices is enshrouded in an elegant structure with suave and unedged contours that show this is ready for drinking. Upon decanting for an hour more of the same only with textures and greater appeal explaining why Meyney has a cult following.
I suggest decanting for just enough time to allow the wine to blossom with full force but this is ripe for the drinking even if there is potential on the upside. Even in a trying year terroir like Meyney comes through in leaps and bounds and the tour de force of deep fruit and elegant structure ensure that its full-bodied character has a wide berth of enviable expression.
Supplier details: Attard & Co. Wines has a range of Bordeaux wines in the Cordier portfolio with a number of well-rated St Estèphe wines, including Château La Rousseliere and Tronquoy Lalande. Attard & Co. Wines, Canter House, P. Felicjan Bilocca Str., Marsa. Tel 00356 2123 7555 (Gozo Outlet: Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Victoria. Tel: 00356 2156 4570). Web attardcowines.com
Château Lafon-Rochet 2016.
Photography FIRSTMagazine Malta.
Château Lafon-Rochet Fourth Growth Grand Cru Classe 2016 available from Farsonsdirect.
Terroir: 35-year-old vines planted in deep gravel and blue clay on slopes and hills with high elevations at the southern end of St Estèphe near Cos D’ Estournel.
TASTING NOTES: LE NOZZE DI FIGARO – ROAST TURKEY WITH SAGE AND ONION, PLUM AND CHESTNUT STUFFING WITH TRIMMINGS.
Upon opening Château Lafon-Rochet 2016 is satiny cardinal ruby red in appearance. Mineral wisps of mint, truffle, exotic Chinese five-spice, savoury venison, regally mark off the signature Saint Estèphe boundaries. A core heart of wild forest berries, bramble bush, dark ripe summer fruit punch their own weight on the lush vintage. The attack is sweet red plum with a medium-light body of racy acids and plush tannins ending in a fine cherry, cigar box, cedar and vanilla finish. The wine is rearing with potential needing time to blossom. Upon decanting for three hours the rich cherry and berry confection turn more mulled and fleshy with roasted nuts to boot.
I suggest decanting this wine for as long as one wishes. There is an awe-inspiring Burgundian purity to the core of this wine such is its seamless polish and ethereal dancing poise even if this is a strong contender for the quintessential wine of the appellation and vintage that has brought out the best of its gravel and blue clay terroir. The fruit core speak volumes but are textured with spice and oak notes ensuring that none of this falls flat, the structure is a roaring edifice of things yet to happen by way of gracious aging but can still be savoured at this stage with gusto.
Supplier details: Farsonsdirect has a large range of St Estèphe wines amongst which Cos D’Estournel, Montrose, Phelan Segur, Petit Bocq and Calon Segur. Farsonsdirect, The Brewery, Mdina Road, B’Kara. Tel 00356 2381 4444. Web farsonsdirect.com
Pagodes de Cos 2016.
Photography FIRSTMagazine Malta.
Pagodes de Cos 2016 Fourth Growth Grand Cru Classe available from Farsonsdirect.
Terroir: 40-year-old vines planted on the Cos hill of pebbles with a mixture of gravel, sand, clay and limestone (unique to Cos is a higher concentration of gravel than most of St Estèphe and more similar to Pauillac which it borders).
TASTING NOTES: DUCCIO’S MAESTA – ROAST VENISON SAUSAGES WITH CARAMELIZED ONION MARINADE AND MASHED POTATOES.
Pagodes de Cos 2016 in appearance is deep ruby red with a plum density. The bouquet has an intense core of forest fruit; crushed blackberries and blackcurrant syrup with cherry and plum in trail. An intricate filigree of secondary and tertiary notes of tobacco leaf, cedar, pepper and clove spice, wet forest and truffle speak volumes of the gilded vintage and wine at hand. On the attack, a full confection of dark fruit is wrapped in savoury textures of caramelized roast venison with a lovely base of tongue-tingling acidity and tannins ending in a wild mountain strawberry and dry timbre and spice inflected finish. The overarching structure has depths and volumes which are literally evolving on the tongue and in the glass promising that this is still in its prime youth. Upon decanting for three hours the aromas have plumbed new depths unfolding into flavours of creamy molasses and roast walnuts with more texture and flesh to the dark plum and cherry and an even longer finish.
I suggest drinking this wine at intervals from first opening for a varied experience. This is an incredibly complex wine with a multifaceted expression of a bountiful vintage where racy Cabernet is giving plush Merlot a run for its money in the mid-palate contours. St Estèphe happened to be in the sweet spot in bringing out the best of what nature had to offer and this wine encapsulates succinctly and decadently that fortuitous alignment.
Supplier details: Farsonsdirect has a large range of St Estèphe wines amongst which Cos D’Estournel, Montrose, Phelan Segur, Petit Bocq and Calon Segur. Farsonsdirect, The Brewery, Mdina Road, B’Kara. Tel 00356 2381 4444. Web farsonsdirect.com
Château de Pez 2015.
Photography FIRSTMagazine Malta.
Château de Pez 2015 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel available from Charles Grech Ltd.
Terroir: north of the appellation just west of Calon Segur 25-year-old vines on gravel, sand and clay soils with high elevations.
Upon uncorking Château de Pez 2015 is a deep ruby red with a glowing red lustre hallow. The bouquet is an orchestrated bevy of high notes; ripe cherry and plum, tobacco leaf and wet undergrowth. The cedarwood and baked spice are well integrated with depth and aplomb even at this youthful age. On the palate the attack is full dark stone fruit with wafts and wafts of berried colouration adding a mid-palate texture and intensity which sings itself off beautifully in a long-lasting textured finish. A mouth thirsting acidity and subtle dryness ensures you dip in for more. 2015 in this neck of the woods was a hot summer vintage with a wet autumn but de Pez came through with flying colours. A light vein minerality of molasses, toasted walnut and dry rose petal and violet accompanies a tinge of green bell pepper and sour wild cherry backdrop. The tannins are textured but satiny with the wine evolving in the glass suggesting that even though this is youthful and structured it will age with ease. Upon decanting for an hour the full fruit spectrum has added muster with verve and character in the structure built on a backbone of toasted and earthy notes giving amplitude and delicious depth.
I suggest decanting this wine for as long as one wishes but taste upon opening for good measure. The vintage is one of the most complex in the last decade and this wine fulfils its seasonal role admirably and with perfect balance. St Estèphe is surely a poster child for easily approachable and affordable left bank wines that also have a weight to vie with more expensive wines and this bottle and vintage is certainly the standard of admirable measure.
Supplier details: Charles Grech has a vast range of Bordeaux wines at varying price points and vintages. Charles Grech, Valley Road, B’Kara. Tel: 00356 2144 4400 (Sliema 2132 3731, Ibragg 2137 8609, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront 2131 5064). Web charlesgrech.com
Château Ormes de Pez 2017.
Photography FIRSTMagazine Malta.
Château Ormes de Pez 2017 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel available from The Store.
Terroir: Around the hameau/hamlet of Pez 30-year-old vines planted in two parcels with more gravel in one and more clay and sand in the other.
TASTING NOTES: VENUS DE MILO = HAKKA NOODLES WITH STIR-FRY CHICKEN, PRAWNS, LEMONGRASS, LIME AND CHILLIES.
In appearance Ormes de Pez 2017 is deep garnet with a soft lush density. On the nose a rich bouquet of maraschino cherries laced in cedarwood, baked clove and bitter-sweet almond. Base notes of cocoa, prune, treacle, mint and anise attest to the rich and varied terroir of clay, gravel and sand. The attack is a quick succession of mulled dense red berries with a medium-plus bodied corpulent mouth feel and pleasingly long creamy dry finish. The wine despite its youth is already quite forthcoming even if a bit tight at this stage. Upon a three hour decant tongue wrapping tannins turn more satin with a florality of iris, violet and wild mountain strawberry setting the end of summer tone.
I suggest decanting this wine for an hour or more just to let it open up gracefully. The body is a shapely combination of arching grape varieties vying to please with a firm balanced structure ensuring none of this blossom in vane. A smooth silhouette of luscious fruit, intricate spice and rich minerality explain why Pez hamlet wines are so endearing, this already has subtle tertiary notes readily and deliciously accessible even if cellaring will add further depths.
Supplier details: The Store has a wide range of Bordeaux wines at various price points and vintages. The Store, Triq taz-Zwejt, San Gwann (Industrial Estate). Tel 00356 2144 4364. Web thestore.mt
Château Haut Baradieu 2010.
Photography FIRSTMagazine Malta.
Château Haut Baradieu 2010 (made for Cordier) available from Attard & Co. Wines.
Terroir: chalky-clay soils near Calon-Segur in the northern end of Pauillac.
TASTING NOTES: IN THE MIDST OF WATER –ROAST CAPON WITH CHESTNUT STUFFING, YORKSHIRE PUDDINGS AND GRAVY.
Upon opening Château Haut Baradieu 2010 is a dark scarlet red verging on deep crimson. The bouquet is a medley of forest berries wrapped in timbre oak notes, tobacco leaf, pencil shavings, and peppermint. Savoury notes of light game, hot spice and smoke also come into play. Upon tasting a luscious range of berries, cassis and mulberry on the attack are complemented by a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel with tongue-tingling tannins and a tart acidity that unfolds into a toasted brioche and cream sherry dry finish. The wine is full of understated structure that speaks volumes with the assemblage of grape varieties providing a well-rounded core of fruit and more fruit at varying stages of ripening. Upon decanting for three hours some of the berries have turned more to crisp damson with more aplomb adding flesh to the bones of aromas that are now even more in full swing. Plusher tones of baked spice with tertiary notes of dry rose and wet earth unfurl, suggesting this can promisingly age further.
I suggest decanting this wine for a few hours just on the basis of a stellar vintage if a true expression of the seasons in play in full bloom are to be properly appreciated. The structure is all there providing the backdrop for a wine that speaks volumes of luscious fruit but has dimensions that need time to savour in good order.
Supplier details: Attard & Co. Wines has a range of Bordeaux wines in the Cordier portfolio with a number of well-rated St Estèphe wines, including Château La Rousseliere and Tronquoy Lalande. Attard & Co. Wines, Canter House, P. Felicjan Bilocca Str., Marsa. Tel 00356 2123 7555 (Gozo Outlet: Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Victoria. Tel: 00356 2156 4570). Web attardcowines.com
Château Coutelin-Merville 2012.
Photography FIRSTMagazine Malta.
Château Coutelin-Merville 2012 Cru Bourgeois available from S. Rausi Trading Ltd.
Terroir: 26-year-old vines on clay and gravel near Lafon-Rochet at the southern end of the appellation.
TASTING NOTES: THE GENTLE HILL –PARPADELLE ALLA CARBONARA – EGGS, GUANCIALE, PECORINO.
Coutelin-Merville 2012 is a dark cherry red with a warm density in colour. On the nose soft notes of dry tobacco leaf and vanilla bean with wafts of rose petal, sandalwood and pencil shavings. Mid notes are blackcurrant, damascene plum and strawberry preserve. On the palate the attack is a dry tart red fruit berry followed by a medium to light-bodied mouthfeel with gracious textures throughout and pleasing full fruit finish. Upon decanting for three hours the wine opens up to more fruit and flesh with savoury notes of caramelized creamy molasses and juicy red meat.
I suggest decanting this wine for as long as desired both in terms of the vintage and terroir. The content is a balanced combination and harbinger of ripe Merlot and tarter Cabernet Sauvignon with a soothingly sweet and dry tempo vying to make their mark. This is St Estèphe at its most approachable in terms of value and light drinking without losing out on the trace of minerality and gorgeous fruit flavours that enshrine its boundaries.
Supplier details: S. Rausi Trading has a large range of French wines with an emphasis on Bordeaux. S Rausi Trading Ltd, Empire Stadium Str, Gzira. Tel 00356 2131 6210. Web srausi.com/shop
