EFFORTLESS BESPOKE TAILORING TO IMPRESS

Lockdowns and technology have changed the way we work, interact, dress and go about our days. Today we talk how Covid impacted menswear with Tatyana Kozhevnikova, Founder and Creative Director at Artefact London. Artefact London is a boutique bespoke tailoring business in Mayfair. In 2018 Tatyana was recognised by Forbes 30 Under 30 for modernising Savile Row traditions. Are suits in or out? What are some of the trends in menswear?

Is the suit dead post pandemic?

I certainly don’t feel that in my bespoke tailoring business. You see the type of gentlemen that have come to me to get their suits made prior to COVID restrictions are NOT the ones that HAVE to wear a suit, rather the ones that WANT to wear tailoring. It still holds true post lockdowns. Many found new appreciation for being able to dress up and show up in style in the outside world.

Whilst a lot of people are embracing a more relaxed dress code my customers seize an easy opportunity to stand out.

I say this on behalf of many women: us ladies aren’t turned on by comfy sweaters! Ask any woman if she prefers a man wears athleisure or a well fitting casual jacket to the first date? A jacket with correct proportions defines a man’s shoulders and chest like no cardigan or sweater ever will. First impressions matter. Well made tailoring is a short cut to a woman’s heart, elevating an impression & your confidence. Use the shortcut!

What are some of the trends you see in tailoring?

I see and encourage a trend where a classic suit is worn with lightweight knits or a well fitting t-shirt. There is something effortless yet classy about this combination, add dark brown suede shoes to the equation and you are dressed for a day at work that can transition into a date night without the need for a change of clothes. Another request I am getting more of is for work suits to feel & look less office like - more relaxed. My suggestion is making the suits using flannel. When I suggest flannel people often think of a fluffy old fashioned winter cloth. Until I demonstrate the 300gr flannel that gives the suit the perfect drape and can easily be used as separates, dressed up or down. I build capsule wardrobes for my customers using flannel suits (think light grey, dark navy, sage, oatmeal) that can then be mixed & matched to create timeless casual combinations.

Did your business have to adapt post pandemic?

We expanded the bespoke casual wear to offer field jackets, trousers with an elastic waistband that became a hit for working from home. Yet, it is still a small proportion of the requests. Classic tailoring remains the heart of the business.

Navy wedding suit - how to make it look less office like and more special occasion?

Dark navy suits are a very popular colour choice as they complement virtually every skin tone. Since it is the go to colour for weddings and work alike, it is a good idea to differentiate the wedding look.

The simplest way to make a navy suit look special is by adding a waistcoat to it. Want more panachemake it a double-breasted waistcoat. Want to stand out even more? Add colour to the waistcoat and make it a contrasting one.

And then of course accessories: white pocket square or perhaps play with colour. Add a boutonnière for the festive mood.

Ties: In or out?

A tie is a must for a wedding or a very formal meeting.

When it comes to day to day work - skip it. At the same time, I believe fashion is a cycle. Clothes & accessories go out of fashion to subsequently make a return a few years down the line. Don’t rush to give your ties away to charity. Hide them under bed for 4-5 years, bring them out in 2028.

Do you find yourself wearing suits & jackets all the time?

Personally, I am a big fan of athleisure myself when I take my kids to the park or go to the local pizzeria. For a night out I wear my Artefact blazers with leather leggings and high heels. I do love to dress all out for work. If you see a woman wearing a three piece suit with a contrasting waistcoat in Mayfair - there is a good chance it is me. theartefact.com