ITALIAN CITY BREAK: GENOA

Often overshadowed by more scenic Italian cities, Liguria’s capital is an under-the-radar delight, says Sarah Marshall

Where To Drink

Les Rouges, 1st floor of the Piazza Campetto

Staring up at faded frescoes and the chipped busts of classical philosophers, it’s hard not to feel inspired by the surroundings of this sultry, intimate salon - and that’s even before the cocktails have kicked in. Part of Palazzo Imperiale, one of Genoa’s magnificent Rolli palaces which were built in the 16th century and now have Unesco status, the bar honours its past with a signature drink inspired by the city. The Spritz Genovese (€7/£6) features locally-produced vermouth Asinello Corochinato, topped up with basil soda. Visit lesrouges.it

Where To Eat

Il Marin Restaurant, Millo Building Ancient

Port Calata Cattaneo

Despite Genoa’s proximity to the water, when it comes to local delicacies, seafood dishes are overshadowed by sturdier carbs like focaccia. But this sleek, dashingly modern restaurant, which overlooks the Porto Antico, serves a great selection of local catch. Crossing through the Eataly food emporium to get here, you’ll need to bypass deliciously-dressed products flirting for attention. But abstinence is definitely worth it. Sitting at long wooden tables encourages diners to share dishes, which include scallops served with turnip greens, rhubarb and hemp seeds (€19/£16), and lobster prepared with grapes and porcini mushrooms (€26/£22). A set lunch menu costs from E34 (£29). Visit genova.eataly.it.

Where To Sample Local Foods

Mercato Orientale

A rainbow of delicate amber courgette flowers, crisp ruby-red radicchio and bushy forest-green cavolo nero leaves, the vegetables on display at this market are pert and fresh, indicating it’s probably only been a few hours since they were plucked from the ground. Other delights include homemade pesto sauces, best served with thick spirals of pasta known as trofie, and a walnut sauce designed specifically for panzotti, filled parcels similar to ravioli. Operating in former church cloisters since the 19th century, the cherished market is soon to get a revamp, with a new street food wing due to open in May. Ivano Ricchebono, the chef at Genoa’s only Michelinstarred restaurant The Cook, plans to have a stall selling gourmet panini, and there will also be an area upstairs for cooking lessons and workshops, bookable by the public.

WHERE TO STAY Hotel De Ville, Via Di Sottoripa

Most of Genoa’s key modern attractions are in the harbour, so this hotel’s location, set slightly back from the waterfront, is ideally suited for those eager to be in the throng of the action. Occupying several floors of a grand palace which once sheltered noble families, the hotel should be steeped in grandeur. But a minimal, simple design makes it far more understated than you might expect, and only the marble staircase hints at an opulent past. Rooms from E143 (£123) per night (two sharing), including breakfast and city tax. Visit hoteldeville.it/en. visitgenoa.it.