MFA.FASHION.DESIGN THE FINE-ART of FASHION and TECHNOLOGY ISSUE
SPRING 2019
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN THE FINE-ART of FASHION and TECHNOLOGY ISSUE
FULL-TIME FACULTY MFA FASHION DESIGN
Jonathan KYLE Farmer ma(rca) Professor and Chair - MFA FASHION DESIGN FULL-TIME STAFF MFA FASHION DESIGN
ARIELE Elia Industry/Project Coordinator
Upon graduating from this program, students have gained a new level of design fluency and creative confidence, a mastery of their own specialized craft:OLOGY, and an understanding of their place as a maker and influencer in fashion history/futures. They enter personally defined industries as articulate, vocal, and formidable design specialists, not design generalists, and are expected to populate a mix of large-scale, high-end design houses, smaller ateliers, entrepreneurial ventures, experimental think tanks and consultancies, or continued study at the MPhil or PhD level.
HENRY Wallace Studio Technician
ADJUNCT FACULTY MFA FASHION DESIGN
AMMAR Belal
Program Overview The 60-credit Fashion Design MFA program is a two-year, full-time program that invites students to embark on a highly mentored personal journey into their own ideas and philosophies around fashion and design. They are be encouraged and supported to innovate in design, fit, cut, construction, silhouette, and materiality, all with intention and meaning. Students are required to reflect with critical distance on their own work as well as contribute as an active participant in the critique space in a collaborative studio environment to gain new perspectives on their own ideas, concepts, philosophies, and ideologies, and to give feedback and insight to others on theirs.
JUN JY Hong Highlights Direct access to The Museum at FIT’s collection of fashion and textiles and to the college’s Special Collections
AURA Taylor
JOSHUA Williams
BACH Mai
KIRA Craft
BRIAN Emery
SARAH Byrd
Connections to design and business innovators through FIT’s position as a pioneer in fashion education with close ties to industry International Making Seminars include travel to global destinations to investigate fit and local and international production systems Perspectives on brand identity, legal issues, and supply chain through business courses Opportunities to present your work and engage with investors and industry leaders
JAMES Mendolia
JEANNINE Han
SIKI Im
VASILIJA Zivanic
Enquires: jonathan_farmer@fitnyc.edu ariele_elia@fitnyc.edu mfafashiondesign@fitnyc.edu gradadmissions@fitnyc.edu www.fitnyc.edu/fd-mfa www.facebook.com/FITfashionmfa www.instagram.com/fitfashionmfa
The success of this program would not have been possible without The Fashion Institute of Technology
CONTENT 4. Letters 5. Graduate Studies Invites - A Sample of posters generated to promote MFAFD SGS Events. 6. The Tomorrow Project - Sponsored by WGSN and COLORO. CFDA Geoffrey Beene Scholarship Award Winner 2018 7. HEROES AMONG US - TODAY 8. X-RAYS of Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior and Givenchy MF 601 - Fashion Creation III: Design Archaeology in co:LAB with the Museum at FIT
9. 15 RUN|a|WAYS - THE STUDENTS 10 – 13. ANASTASIA Edwards-Morel 14 – 17. AMY Sperber 18 – 21. ELIZA Fisher 22 – 25. Jingqi GINA Yang 26 – 29. TJACOB Hooker 30 – 33. JOHN Lenahan .aka. LENNY VUITTON 34 – 37. JUNKAI Huang 38 – 41. KRITIKA Manchanda 42 – 45. MOON Chang 46 – 49. YUNRAY Chang 50 – 53. Na RENA Ren 54 – 57. UTKARSH Shukla 58 – 61. WU Yutong 62 – 65. YI-TING Lee 66 – 69. YUCHEN Han 70 – 79. THANK YOU’s and ADVERTORIALS
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN THE FINE-ART of FASHION and TECHNOLOGY ISSUE
Jonathan KYLE Farmer Editor/Creative Director JEANNINE Han Art Director ANTONIO Mah Technical Graphic Support
Dr. Joyce F. Brown, President, Fashion Institute of Technology Dr. Giacomo Oliva, Vice President for Academic Affairs Sherry F. Brabham, Treasurer and Vice President for Finance and Administration Loretta Lawrence Keane, Vice President for Communications and External Relations Dr. Yasemin Jones, Associate VP for Academic Affairs June Ng, Director, Space Management and Planning Dr. Valerie Steele, Director of The Museum at FIT School of Graduate Studies Chairs School of Graduate Studies Faculty and Staff There is a very long list of others to Thank alas this little magazine does not have the room A HUGE THANK YOU to all that have contributed your support is very much valued and appreciated
INDUSTRY FRIENDS Alex Brownless - Arts Thread Chris Healer and Matt Fleischer - The Molocule Claudia Li - Claudia Li Eve Lin - Royal College of Art Francis Wong - WGSN Gahee Lim - Thom Browne Gilles Montezin - Gilles Montezin Maud Lescroart - Sophie Hallette Maya Kano - Tory Burch Murphy Guo, Siyu Tang and Yuan He NOISÉ Penji Cai - Diane von Furstenberg Sander Lak - Sies Marjan Sara Kozlowski - CFDA Susan Nickle - Freudenberg Yvonne Watson - The New School Parsons PERSONAL Most importantly to Family— Blood or otherwise, without you there would be no US Thank you on every level for all you have done And a special Acknowledgment to those we have lost in the last 2 years MUM’s and DAD’s this one is for you
MARY Davis, Ph.D. Dean, School of Graduate Studies
It’s a great pleasure and an honor to present the work of our inaugural class of MFA Fashion Design students at FIT. It has been exciting and exhilarating to see these exceptional students bring their visions to fruition—they have set a high bar for all who follow. They exemplify the values that define the School of Graduate Studies, including creative excellence, social responsibility, and above all, the need to contribute to a meaningful and globallyfocused future. All of us at FIT are proud of the accomplishments and achievements of this first class and are eager to see what comes next for each of them!
Jonathan KYLE Farmer ma(rca) Professor and Chair - MFA FASHION DESIGN
One of my dreams—dating back to my years as a master’s stu-
dent—was to design and build a new kind of Masters of Fine Arts in Fashion Design program. Never in my wildest dreams this would become my reality, to develop one at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. Since 2015, I’ve embarked on the position of Chairperson in the MFA Fashion Design program, overseeing the conceptualization, design, and curriculum of a twoyear, Master of Fine Arts program in Fashion Design, set to launch in August 2017. This new program is placed within the School of Graduate Studies at FIT that has high standards in academic rigor. These expectations were met with having to go through many layers of approval at an unprecedented pace in order to launch the program in the time that we did. It is with much pride and thanks to the support of many people at FIT that the deadline was met and the program was indeed launched on time. They say—Time flies when you’re having fun—Fast forward to May 2019 as we Graduate the first cohort of fifteen students who I have affectionately nick-named—My 15RUN|a|WAYS. This group have collectively challenged me both creatively and intellectually and at times have made me question and rethink my own fundamental understanding of what it means to be a designer and an educator, a gift I am most grateful of. I am so very proud of each of them, for their accomplishments and the massive growth they have made. And I wish them every success as they move forward in their careers as multi-disciplinary Fashion Designers. Please remember I am always here for you. And look forward to you returning to share with future generations of the program your stories, words of wisdom and support.
GENDER:ON/OFF
Research_Alive N.Y.C. brings the Royal College of Art, London to The Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. Speakers will discuss, material culture, technology, design pedagogy and research methods. FIT’s School of Graduate Studies new MFA Fashion Design program provides a space for a conversation to take place about multi-dimensional methods used in research-through-practice. How can we bring research alive? What methods are being used to capture the results of practice-led research? What technologies are being used in the varied research processes?
Over the course of three evenings, garments, styling and commercialisation will be explored. Through interactive exercises and discussions, this cluster aims to highlight the differences between the conscious and implicit perception of gender difference, as well as the contrast between its language and actual visual representation. Breaking down the complicated concepts of gender into its most basic components, the intention is not to reassemble those pieces but rather observe them individually and to assess to what extent they inform creative practice in fashion, or if they elude that practice altogether. Day 1. The garment * How is gender indicated in a garment? * What makes it feminine, masculine, unisex or entirely ambiguous?
Jonathan KYLE Farmer ma(rca) Professor and Chair MFA Fashion Design School of Graduate Studies Fashion Institute of Technology New York
Yu Lun EVE.Lin MPhil Candidate - Fashion Royal College of Art, London
Designing - Fashion design education- into the Future
Fashion design pedagogy and culture differences in learning and teaching
AMY Konstanze Mercedes Rainbow Winters Doctoral Candidate - Textile Royal College of Art, London
Merging technology with fashion, interactive textiles, which respond to external influences such as light, sound, speed and moisture
Dr. CLAIRE Pajaczkowska Senior Research Tutor Fashion and Textile School of Material Royal College of Art, London
Contemporary cultural studies, practices from art to industry. The interface between subjectivity and social structure demands new methods of enquiry
November 15, 2016. 11 am to 2 pm Katie Murphy Amphitheatre
G E N D E R: O N / O F F
Day 2. Styling * How can styling affect the way garments are perceived? * How can styling affect the way a person is perceived?
Gender: ON/OFF is a series of workshops centred around the representation and construction of conventional gender difference in contemporary fashion. with
Teresa F. Kroenung
Day 3. Commercialisation * What role does the commercialisation of fashion play with regards to conventional gender difference? * Can creative practice counteract capitalism’s binary?
MPhil Fashion Candidate, Royal College of Art, London.
6 pm - 9 pm November 29, 30 and December 1, 2016 OPEN TO FACULTY AND STUDENTS
Seventh Avenue at 27 Street, New York City.
SGS INVITES: CLICK TO RSVP
Hosted by: Jonathan KYLE Farmer ma(rca) Chair MFA Fashion Design, School of Graduate Studies. Co-Hosted by:
Design + Tech Lab
SCHOOL OF GRADUATE STUDIES
MA ART MARKET MPS COSMETIC and FRAGRANCE MARKETING and MANAGEMENT MA EXHIBITION DESIGN
MFA FASHION DESIGN
MA FASHION and TEXTILE STUDIES: HISTORY, THEORY, MUSEUM PRACTICE MPS GLOBAL FASHION MANAGEMENT MFA ILLUSTRATION
CFDA AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR - NOMINEE (2019)
Sander Lak Creative Director | BoF 500 | The People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry
In Conversation with: Chair/Professor Jonathan KYLE Farmer
MFA Fashion Design, School of Graduate Studies
Thursday, April 25th, 2019 5:00 PM – 7.00 PM EST
Pomerantz Center, Katie Murphy Amphitheater, Fashion Institute of Technology 227 West 27th Street, New York, NY 10001
SCHOOL OF GRADUATE STUDIES
MA ART MARKET STUDIES MPS COSMETIC and FRAGRANCE MARKETING and MANAGEMENT MA EXHIBITION AND EXPERIENCE DESIGN MFA FASHION DESIGN MA FASHION and TEXTILE STUDIES: HISTORY, THEORY, MUSEUM PRACTICE MPS GLOBAL FASHION MANAGEMENT MFA ILLUSTRATION
SCHOOL OF GRADUATE STUDIES
ART MARKET STUDIES MPS COSMETIC and FRAGRANCE MARKETING and MANAGEMENT GRADUATE EXHIBITION AND EXPERIENCE DESIGN MFA FASHION DESIGN MA FASHION and TEXTILE STUDIES: HISTORY, THEORY, MUSEUM PRACTICE MPS GLOBAL FASHION MANAGEMENT MFA ILLUSTRATION
SCHOOL OF GRADUATE STUDIES
MA ART MARKET STUDIES MPS COSMETIC and FRAGRANCE MARKETING and MANAGEMENT MA EXHIBITION AND EXPERIENCE DESIGN
MFA FASHION DESIGN
MA FASHION and TEXTILE STUDIES: HISTORY, THEORY, MUSEUM PRACTICE MPS GLOBAL FASHION MANAGEMENT MFA ILLUSTRATION
Rituals of Death and Memory A Panel Discussion and Exhibition
Write [ing]
Method
Design [ing] Read [ing] Method
F r i d a y N o v e m b e r 2, 2 0 1 8, 6 - 8 p m Fashion Institute of Technology KATIE MURPHY AMPHITHEATRE - Seventh Avenue at 27 Street, New York City. 10001
Yu Lun Eve Lin MPhil/PhD Fashion Royal College of Art
Read [ing]
REDRESSING the BODY
Design [ing]
Write [ing]
Research_Alive N.Y.C. 2016
Read[ing] offered useful references and build your knowledge. Design[ing] allowed a space for your practice to grow. Write[ing] enabled you to reflect on your process and put the thought into words. Methods and Practices: they both offer skills and knowledge for you to apply in the creative process as you need.
Yu Lun Eve Lin MPhil/PhD Fashion Royal College of Art ROOM A605 : Tuesday 30th January 2018 10 a.m -11 a.m Lecture - Write[ing] from Design[ing] method 1:00 p.m -2 p.m Workshop i - Lecture : Read[ing], Design[ing] and Write[ing] 2:30 p.m -4p.m Workshop ii- Writing exercise
Write [ing]
Design [ing] Read [ing]
This program is organized in collaboration with the MFA Fashion Design, School of Graduate Studies at FIT and Reimagine: End of Life, a week long, city-wide, interdisciplinary exploration of death and remembrance (October 28- November 3, 2018). In every culture around the world the body of the deceased is prepared for departure from life. While rituals surrounding death vary significantly from culture to culture, many involve dressing or covering the body with cloth or adorning it with jewels and paint. This event aims to highlight personal or cultural rituals of dressing the body as a way to memorialize the deceased and allow a respectful passage from life. The participants in the panel are fashion practitioners and academics who weave together personal stories, memory, and loss. A moderated discussion will highlight how their work reflects and challenges contemporary attitudes towards end of life. In addition, students from the MFA Fashion Design program will showcase original designs commissioned specifically for this event, which draw from their own cultural background.
The marriage of color science and creativity We believe in a world with unlimited creative freedom. And to realize this potential, you need to realize the limitless power of color. Based on a 100-year-old color methodology, refined with 20 years of applied science, we’ve designed an intuitive, ultra-contemporary color system that decodes color as the human eye sees it. It will revolutionize the way you work with color giving you complete creative freedom and helping you to realize your creative potential. The only limit is your imagination. Presenters: Thorsten Traugott, Managing Director of Coloro International (based in Germany) Detlev Pross, Managing Director of Coloro China (based in Shanghai) Francis Wong, Executive Vice President, Global Creative Director of WGSN (based in New York)
JOIN US: Thursday 28th September 5.30PM -6.30PM MFA FASHION DESIGN STUDIOS - ROOM A605 Fashion Institute of Technology, School of Graduate Studies 27th Street & 7th Avenue (6th Floor, A Building)
ARTWORK By: John Lenahan - MFA Fashion Design candidate 2019 (Thesis- MY MOBILE CANVAS FROM SPACES TO PLACES)
https://int.coloro.com
Panelists: Host: Professor Jonathan KYLE Farmer ma(rca) - Chair, MFA Fashion Design, School of Graduate Studies, FIT Mark Mitchell - Arizona-Based Artist Anastasia Edwards Morel - MFA Fashion Design candidate 2019 (Thesis-Living with Loss) Patrick Boylan - Adjunct Professor, FIT Fashion Design/Grace Liturgical Vestments Owner and Designer Moderator: Keren Ben-Horin - Adjunct Professor, School of Graduate Studies/Textile Development & Marketing
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
O S T
PTSD
PTSD
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U G A R E H Y D R A T ii O N
U G A R
E H Y D R A T ii O N
POST TINSEL SUGAR DEHYDRATION
PTSD (Post Tinsel Sugar Dehydration) is the serious disease which human can be infected from fruits. It causes damages on a human brain because the flavors become too strong, human cannot stand this range of sourness and sweetness. At the end, it will make a human die. How can a human die from fruits? It is possible. However, Venus Chang, a makeup artist, he invented a special cosmetic that can eat fruits by absorbing through skins. Chang said, “you can use PTSD Cosmetic Gel to eat fruits with no harm, and also you can make your skin juicy!�
JUNKAI hung
MOON jung chang r
POST TINSEL SUGAR DEHYDRATION
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The perfect food matches matched by LEGO. LEGO cooking is a new food system that merges and reconstructs two ingredients into one new dishes. A modern taste of combination. Diners no longer need to worry about the proportion of two common food match. Never need to concern about which wine goes with which steak, neither how much lemon should be put on fish. LEGO cooking creates perfect infusion.
KRITIKA Manchanda, from Fashion Institute of Technology, was awarded the top prize of $25,000. The Geoffrey Beene Design Scholarship Award is presented to an MA/MFA student who creates an exploratory collection that best represents the future of innovation, technology, and materiality in fashion design by using the body as a three dimensional canvas. Finalists for the Geoffrey Beene Design Scholarship award are selected and receive a $1,000 stipend to prototype a design. This competitive award is based solely on merit as judged by a prestigious panel of industry experts and helps defray tuition and educational expenses. The winner attends and is announced at the annual CFDA Fashion Awards in June.
https://issuu.com/kritika.manchanda/docs/kritika_manchanda_cfda_1c32911cd63d86 6
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X-RAYS of Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, and Givenchy is the result of a collaboration between the students of FIT’s MFA Fashion Design program and The Museum at FIT. The project is part of a course entitled “Fashion Creation 3 - Design Archaeology,” which centers on the concept that in order to move design forward, it is of utmost value to know where it has been. The students were divided into four groups, and then each group was tasked with producing a replica of a couture garment from a leading fashion house: Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, or Givenchy. The original garments, housed in The Museum at FIT collection, were carefully researched by the students. In addition to creating the line-for-line replicas, the students gained a deep understanding of the brand’s heritage. They then developed a contemporary, technologydriven collection. The display of process-based design work highlights each student’s personal development, resulting in a fully realized look and an advertorial that completes their vision and projects a new direction for each house. Collar Designed By: Utkarsh Shukla for Givenchy - MFA Fashion Design Candidate 2019 @oot.kar.sh Dress Designed by: Kritika Manchanda - MFA Fashion Design Candidate 2019 @kritikamanchanda Make-up Artsit: Ashtyn @ashtynthurbs Model: Avery Ashton @aveuhhree Photographer: April Blum @aprilblumphoto Styled + Art Direction By: Utkarsh Shukla
THANK YOU for making X-RAYS happen:
Dr Valerie Steele Fred Dennis Colleen Hill Tommy Synnamon Ann Coppinger Michael Goitia Ryan Wolfe Kenneth Wiesinger Gabrielle Lauricella Boris Chesakov FACULTY: Aura Taylor Sara Byrd Photographer: April Blum Instagram @aprilblumphoto
PRESENTING THE STUDENTS of the 1st GRADUATING YEAR Master of Fine Arts in FASHION DESIGN within the School of Graduates The Fashion Institute of Technology, NYC Fall 2017 – Spring 2019
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01.ANASTASIA Edwards-Morel 02.AMY Sperber 03.ELIZA Fisher 04.Jingqi GINA Yang 05.TJACOB Hooker 06.JOHN Lenahan .aka. LENNY VUITTON 07.JUNKAI Huang 08.KRITIKA Manchanda 09.MOON Chang 10.YUNRAY Chung 11.Na RENA Ren 12.UTKARSH Shukla 13.WU Yutong 14.YI-TING Lee 15.YUCHEN Han
Living with Loss.01 ME:SPOKE.02 Accessible design for an Inclusive world.03 non-sensory WASTE.04 Techno-craft.05 MY MOBILE CANVAS : FROM SPACES TO PLACES.06 My Little Finger.07 Body of Clothing | An Ontology of Culture.08 Hybrid Beauty.09 NEW AMERICANA.10 CREATE FUN.11 AMENDED IDENTITY.12 BLACK-HOLE TAILOR.13 Characters complete characters.14 A second before awakening.15
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
ANASTASIA Edwards-Morel Living with Loss
anastasia@studioxstaz.com Studioxstaz.com @studioXstaz +1(408)416-8569 10
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MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
I explore the narrative of reality creating a new semiotic for applied clothing. Her work questions the intent behind the making and champions innovation through the cross-pollination of schools of thought, design, and perspective. Building on the craft of fashion design through technology to evolve it to a collaborative field, thus dissipating of the singularity of creativity. Her process is a mastery of common to bring the unexpected to making methods. This thesis investigates the mental impact that our garment has on us and questions what garments become when we set an intention at the beginning of the design process. This research led me to a sweater that can do more in moments of unexpected grief. The sweaters are made from a hybrid of knit and embroidery. Embedded in these developed textiles are soft robotics and magnets to create touch points that interact with the body when grief overcomes the wearer. This thesis is presented through digital 3d models, to further question the boundaries and impact of our ideation and push the possibility of visualization for future materials and concepts. 12
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THANK YOU Amy Sperber Amy Canavan Ariele Elia Boris Kontorovich Branden Rush Eric Kaplan Flora Gil James Ferraro John Anderson Jonathan KYLE Farmer Judith Bowens Joseph Wagner MFA Faculty Michael Ferraro Suzanne Goetz Theanne Schiros CREDITS Pgae 13 Image by April Blum 13
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
Mespoke Mission Statement Mespoke embodies the idea that all fashion consumers should have the ability to modify and change the way clothing fits and appears. Our system is a reflection of the current capability of how a digital on-demand approach can give agency back to the wearer. Regardless of how you are shaped everything developed in this system will fit how you the customer wants. Mespoke gives the users the ability to select from contributing designers collections, and the chance to collaborate on a garment that genuinely reflects them. The process uses less natural resources and is a contemporary approach to sustainable production. Mespoke is fully transparent in pricing to give the customer an authentic understanding of the business. Mespoke is for anyone looking for that item of clothing you cannot find anywhere.
AMY Sperber ME:SPOKE Amy_sperber@fitnyc.edu
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As a multidisciplinary fashion designer, consultant, and educator. As a hybrid thinker and a delusional optimist, Amy is expanding
and redefining the role of a fashion designer through the methodology and approach of human-centered design. After graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology in 1997, she went on to a globetrotting career in the apparel mass market; this experience lead her to shift her thinking and to focus on fashion design projects that aid consumers and support healing or treatment. She has successfully collaborated with doctors and specialists on several projects. She returned to FIT 20 years later to earn her MFA, and is currently exploring alternative manufacturing systems as a tool for fashion customization. This is realized by using advanced technologies including body scanning, 3d modeling, and innovative garment construction methods with a sustainable mindset. Amy believes in creating garments and design solutions that do not just dress the consumer but address the consumers needs. 15
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
3D rendered puffer cardigan and butterfly dress image, download the Arilyn app in the app store to experience the image in AR and in 360 views 16
THE FINE-ART of FASHION and TECHNOLOGY ISSUE
THANK YOU Thank you to the Fashion Institute of Technology for the opportunity to be a student and a faculty member, to KYLE Farmer for creating a space for offbeat ideas to become mainstream solutions. to all the individuals who have offered advice, help, and introductions I am most grateful this work is a direct result of you. Thanks to the faculty and staff of the program for navigating this new frontier. To Amy Canavan at CLO3D thank you for all the answers to my many many questions. to the FRS and Dtech lab thank you for the tools, taking the time to help figure tech out and the gift of hybrid thinking. Special thanks to My family who have held me up for two years with support, participation, and insight. My husband Matt Owens, My parent’s Terry and Paul Sperber. My In-laws Michael Owens and Peggy Sue Owens, who was one of my body muse. CREDITS website bio photo Ida June Owens 17
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
ELIZA Fisher
Eli; Accessible design for an Inclusive world Elizabethfishera@gmail.com Elizafisher.com eellii.com @_eelizzaaa_
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Originally from the west coast, Eliza completed her undergraduate degree in Fashion Design in 2009 at the Academy of Art Univer-
sity in San Francisco. After moving to New York in 2012, she has worked as a design teacher at Parsons The New School for Design, as an on-set tailor, and as a designer and technical designer, most notably with the design collective ThreeAsFour.
Eliza uses heat setting techniques as her primary method of construction and to create the motifs seen on the garments. She consulted with an engineer to develop a heat-sealing technique that works with a CNC machine to create the inflatables. All garments are made using ethically sourced polyurethane fabrics which she hopes someday can be recycled in the post-consumer waste market. Eliza’s thesis investigates the needs of individuals with Sensory Processing Impairments within the Special Needs community, with the aim of proposing new integrated design solutions for this underserved community that allow for greater expression of individual identity. She has worked with individuals and therapists to understand the sensory needs of people with aspergers, ADHD, ADD, Autism and Sensory Processing Disorders. This idea was informed by life experience. With her thesis she hopes to create a greater awareness of the Special Needs community and those with invisible disabilities. Her goal has been to create garments that are inclusive of all needs and abilities. 19
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
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THANK YOU Lauren Baker, Lucille Reynolds, Valerie Potterm Kelly Stafford, Eve Lin, Ida, Woozy and Amy Sperber, Krista Wilbur, Gareth Jones and Anna Koch, Special thanks: My parents, sisters and classmates PHOTO CREDITS Collaborators: Lucille Reynolds, Kiran Usmani, Photographer: Megan Krause Model: Anastasia Alexander, Photographer: Loise Eisenhart CREDITS Sponsorship by Sensitive Fabrics, Pyrates Smart Fabrics, Bemis, Teijin Frontier Co., LTD 21
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
Jingqi GINA Yang non-sensory WASTE
ginayangnyc@gmail.com https://cargocollective.com/jingqiyang +1(929)3100419
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MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
The way I design is to find some inspirations from my daily life. I like the ocean, but I am afraid of water. To over come this fear, I conducted
a case study in placing myself in a sensory deprivation tank where I had no sense of gravity, sight, sound or touch. However, a stream of images were running across my mind where I imagined myself as the ocean made up of all sorts of pollutants. I was extremely terrified, I understood the ocean as a living organism that was about to die. The reaction from this experience made me pro-actively collect waste over the course of one week. With the discarded materials I made my own ocean tank using the wastes from my daily life as well as the objects I gleaned from Coney Island. This little ocean tank is a tiny marine environment of my own simulation. This made me discover the form and to visualize the waste subjectively; colors, feelings, and fashion language. This is my to bring attention to the current state of ocean ecology. 24
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THANK YOU all FIT Fashion Design faculty especially Jonathan KYLE Farmer all my lovely classmates my dear daddy, mummy and sister CREDITS Photographers: Yuchen Han Models: Ira Pavlova - EMG Models Fabric Print support: DESIGN2PRINT 25
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
TJACOB Hooker Techno-craft
tjacob.hooker@gmail.com https://cargocollective.com/tjacobhooker +1(917)806-6331
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ALIGNMENT
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REFLECTION BRACE FOR INCOMING ADAPTABILITY - EQUILIBRIUM ARE KEY TO SUCCESS BE THE CHANGE
THANK YOU Generous Sponsorship provided by Ecco Leather, and Paige West. Everlasting Gratitude to my partner Jordan Mattos, my parents Tim Hooker & Christine Small, My siblings Isobel & Woodson Hooker, Liz & Herschel Coley, Brianna and Addison Hill, Orfa, Monika & Rafael Mattos, Paige West, Jack Keeler, Amber Johnston, Ania Hammam, Kalico De La Fey, Autumn Adamme, Cynthia Altoriso, David White, Sarah Mullins, Sass Brown, KYLE Farmer, Mary Davis PhD, Shelley Parker, Sarah Byrd, Josh Williams, Kira Craft, Amy Sperber, Lenny Vuitton, Utkarsh Shukla, Anastasia Morel, Eliza Fisher, and my mother Sandra. CREDITS Photographer: David White Stylist: Cynthia Altoriso Makeup: Corinne Model: Asia Lopez Producer: Jordan Mattos 27
STRENGTH - LETTING GO
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
How many languages can we speak? 2 years of rigorous research has expanded my horizons beyond what I imagined possible when I began my MFA in Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology. After thorough development of my own expertise in craft, leather and technology, I have become what we can refer to as a TechnΦcraft Conceptualist. Carefully nurturing and encouraging the exploration of matters as far and wide as literature, cinema, rave and nature has exploded my sphere of influence. Through this process my toolkit as an artist, designer, concept developer, and creative strategist has grown to overflow with value and relevance. I have created a human connection with research of self to an expertise in textile and leather development, tools, and methodologies in leather development, applications of experimental fabrics, like Apparition leather, acrylics, laser cutting, and silk-screening. I am able now to introduce my thesis – TechnΦcraft. Through new contexts, TechnΦcraft explores juxtapositions of fine art techniques, with fashion practices and other disciplines. By means of the development of high contrast relationships between textiles and other components, this work creates exciting exchange--establishing a new language between materials and their interactions. Layering esoteric concepts with nature and traditional hand work, the weaving of these universal themes through my work has shown the importance of relation and forms of thought in a fundamental, rooted sense. 28
BONJOUR
FROM THE
COSMOS
Prepare yourself and space for a Proper Reading Move about, Burn Incense or other Cleanser, Focus Intention. Eyes open to the possibilities through Connection to your physical core Use this Spread to connect with yourself/the Universe For use with Technicraft Tarot
MFA.FASHION.DESIGN
JOHN Lenahan .aka. LENNY VUITTON MY MOBILE CANVAS : FROM SPACES TO PLACES LennyVuitton@icloud.com www.lennyvuitton.com +1(716)435-9428 @LennyVuitton
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Lenny Vuitton is truly a dreamer; from inside his surreal conscious out fly creatures with three eyes and slimy noses turning into elaborate doodles and
garments. Lenny Vuitton takes a daring yet exciting approach in his mission to dismantle society’s expectations. A lifestyle brand that unifies art and fashion while drawing relations to every aspect of life; offering a variety of products from painted furniture and abstract sculptures to crazy swag. This cult-like lifestyle is truly a FUCK YOU to the standard fashion industry and in the bigger picture, society. Lenny Vuitton creates inspiration for those who want to escape reality. Being a graffiti artist Lenny is inspired by dismantling and recreating; taking common iconography and remixing it as his own. Something about doing what’s provocative or different is so enticing to people; “the rush felt when others are observing or gawking at you while being different is compelling.” “Originally a painter, I now use clothing to act as my mobile canvas. With my mobile canvases I aim to destroy the expectations that society holds on masculinity, culture, race, gender, art and fashion. From graffiti to the utmost wealthy, my eclectic designs merge and juxtapose various cultures, styles, interests, and lifestyles. 31
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A lot of my inspiration resonates from the streets and the art within these various street cultures. Being around graffiti and street artists I pull a lot of inspiration from these different cultures that either break the rules or have no rules… My aesthetic is constantly changing and evolving with time, while my inspirations remain eclectic and resonate with the experience of life. When I put art on clothes it is like spray painting on a train car and sending it off into the world for the public to see. I create clothes because they aren’t just hanging on someone’s wall for very few to see. By putting my designs on the body, the art moves from space to space creating experiences around them for anyone to enjoy. My entire life and even coming into this program I have always been the odd one, the square peg in the round hole. Through the two years in this program I have studied myself extensively and explored deep into finding my purpose, I believe that I have changed a lot from the designer I was when applying for the MFA. When applying I envisioned myself as being a traditional designer, as time went on I acknowledged the void that needed to be filled. This program, the mentors and my peers have helped me to overcome my comfort zone to embrace my own madness. Before I wasn’t fully accepting who I truly was, now that I have accepted being different I have noticed a rise in success for myself and my art. 32
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THANK YOU Special Thank you to my biggest supporters, Mom & Dad, I Thank you both for always being there for me and supporting me to help me get to where I am. Thank you for letting me follow and live my dreams. I Couldn’t have done any of this without out you guys,I love you. R.I.P John James Lenahan III ; Love you Forever and Always CREDITS Also thank you to all my teachers, mentors and sponsors that have guided me and helped along this journey. Huge Thank you to KYLE Farmer, Charlie Ross at Saga Furs and the Pologeorgis Team for bringing my vision to reality and helping me to create my designs to the highest potential. Models: names nicknames and Instagram Marc Andre @Marcushizzle, Khajonsak Sudsue (Thunder) @T hundersyefah, Kydd Burton @Kyddburton Boyé’ Adebiyi @Boye_a, Dandre Norman (DRE) @Dnormzz, Denise Montero @Yng.cw 33
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JUNKAI Huang My Little Finger
Junkaihuang01@gmail.com @magical.yellow +1(929)283-9639
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As a womenswear designer from China. With over twenty years of experience in Art, he thinks approaches life as an art form. Within
his practice as a fashion designer, he approaches the same as a fine artist. In his mind, the worst kind of art creation is the modular and hence he constantly tries to steer away from the modular norms that are established. Also as a fashion designer, he wants to let the audience look more in an art way instead of traditional fashion design. ‘ I started traditional painting when I was 8 years old. And also I tried to do music, calligraphy and so on. Although I am not good at them. They gave me the sense to do art. To me, Fashion is a way to express your thoughts and yourself to the world, seems like. other kinds of art. In painting, I would like to paint curves. So I have more sense about curves which leads so many curves in my fashion design works. And also I brought fine arts into the fashion design just because they are almost same to me.’ In 2016, Junkai got bachelor degree from Fashion Design Womenswear program of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. After four years study, he got the skills of doing pattern, draping and design. And also he already did some works in some Chinese brands. But he still wants to do the further thinking of fashion. And also he wants to know who he is in this industry and also strengthen his own style of doing design. 35
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THANK YOU Firstly, I will thank KYLE for accepting me onto this program you have provided so many new opportunities and pushed me into finding who I should to be in this industry. Thanks you also all faculty that contribute to this program. You all helped me grow. Especially Professors Aura, Sarah and Jun. A Special thanks to My dear parents. Most of my dreams have been achieved because of your efforts and supports. To my friends, especially Moon and Utkarsh. There has been so many hard times ion this journey. The pretty sweet thing is it is good to know those friends will always be there CREDITS Model: Chrystal Copland Agency: Fenton Model Photographer: Junkai Huang - Insta: @magical.yellow 37
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KRITIKA Manchanda
Body of Clothing | An Ontology of Culture kritikamanchanda@gmail.com kritika-manchanda.com bodyofclothing.com @kritikamanchanda +1(732)298-2808
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Born in India, Kritika spent her childhood traveling to remote destinations across the country. After earning her Bachelors in Commerce
from the University of Delhi, she relocated to New York to study design at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She won the CFDA Geoffrey Beene design scholar award in the first year of her MFA. Drawing from a profoundly rich and diverse culture, her work showcases the use of craftsmanship that is hundreds of years old. She hopes to restore value in the term ‘Made in India’ which was once synonymous with fine craftsmanship and skill. Her process as an artist involves curating historical objects and reinterpreting, re-contextualising and reimagining them. She is able to communicate complex and layered stories and dispel them through minimal shapes and forms. Her work often defies conventions of the physicality of dimension taking a new look at how the wearer may occupy and inhabit clothing. The wearer is taken on a journey through space and time as the garments serve as the vehicle for conceptual historical curation. As a designer, she is intrigued by how clothing can reflect the social, cultural and political landscape of it’s time. 39
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THANK YOU Jonathan KYLE Farmer MFAFD Faculty - Special Thank you to Sarah Byrd Ariele Elia Team in Lucknow: Mahendar Singh Ji, Shanu Bhai, Haseem Bhai and all the artisans involved with the project State Museum,Lucknow Craft Museum, New Delhi April Blum Shiv Biddanda Utkarsh Shukla My Family for their unending support: Mom, dad and Kanika Hitesh Mulani
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MOON Chang Hybrid Beauty
moon@venus-in-black.com moon-chang.com venus-in-black.com
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My aesthetic focus on the dichotomy between beauty and ugliness as an invaluable asset of my own visual vocabulary as a designer. Moreover, I am always inspired by personal stories and stretch this to social movement. My binary perception illustrates the contrast of the beauty and the beast, the light of purity and the darkness of shadow, and the fantasy and the reality. These dual aesthetic evolves into the imaginary and dark fairy-tale story line. The massive size and weight of black with cute elements such as a flowers, bows, and ruffles create the tensions of contrasts and emphasize the aesthetic of massive minimalism as well as the cuteness in ugly ways. My thesis has a story based on the evolutionary order I created. Starting from my personal story, when the time I had PTSD ( Post Traumatic Stress Disorder), I had to deal with the time of suffocation and extinction due to the stress and anxiety. To deal with this, I became myself the adult who tends to go back to childhood, also on the other hand, “Being Cute�. Therefore, I use the cuteness to survive from the death situation. While doing research, I compared the animals like a puppy, cat and rabbit, which have been survived until now, they have cute characteristics like big eyes, ears, with soft furs, they have used those features as a protective mechanism to survive. This method also can be applied to the clothes. The cute features which have been traditionally used and inherited until present is a ribbon, ruffles, and flowers. As a designer, I want my own design atelier as a garden, in house farming and farm to table, so I am building my own ways of handmade and artisanal touch into hybrid couture house. Therefore, I practice the traditional millinery and couture techniques with using velvet and silk to mold flowers, and ribbon folding, and I reinterpret these old couture techniques to hybrid version, which is not just beautiful, but also ugly. 44
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THANK YOU Thanks to my family, especially, mom and dad Thanks to FIT teachers, especially KYLE Thanks to friends, especially Junkai Thanks to doggies, especially, Mimzy & Littleman and Apple Special BIG thanks to my lovely muse, Venus Chang CREDITS Editorial Photographer: the Noise Model: Malka Hynan Agency: APM models
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YUNRAY Chung NEW AMERICANA yunraychung@gmail.com www.sincerelyyunray.com @sincerely.yunray
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Four Performances, four belongings, four stories about immigrating from one country to another. This is a performance resembling how people exchange cultures and identity, like the immigrants learning a new language and culture, the performers exchanged and tried on clothes of different colors, while leaving marks on each other. In the end, one performer put on everything from both of the performers, forming a heavy-loading hybrid, neither the old nor the new. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------YunRay Chung is a combination of a fashion researcher, concept developer, and performance artist. With a wide range of mediums like performances, objects, films and interactive installations, YunRay observes, researches, and tries to understand human emotions and experiences. Through the researches, he builds objects, installations and performance pieces as his commentary, using second-hand garments as a vessel. The final products can be the deconstructed second-hand garments, the performances, the visual images, or just the thoughts. Everything YunRay does, concludes as his concept development, observed by his eyes, thought by his brain, and felt by his heart. And he invites you to feel them too. 48
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THANK YOU Design consulting with Jonathan KYLE Farmer Research consulting with Sarah Byrd Books planning with Jeannine Han Visual consulting with Brian Emery Special thanks to my family and friends for loving and supporting me CREDITS Photographer: Steven Molina Contreras Performers: YunRay Chung, Feng Jiang, Chia-Hao Shen, Celine Lin Location: Candy Studio NYC 49
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Na RENA Ren CREATE FUN
na.ren.patented@gmail.com +1(929)888-4706 @aanbro.official
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Create Fun is our mission.
Designing with fun process, silhouettes supported with amazing traditional tailoring skills and techniques to create innovative products that are fresh but with great value. We are always on a journey of searching for the balance. The balance of old and new, the balance of raw and clean, and more importantly, the balance of give and get. Creating a fun, honest, trustworthy and motivated environment for our team as well as our outside partners so that we are happy , motivated and bring what we can to the table is what we are really aiming for.
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THANK YOU Thanks to my families and my bf for supporting me the last two years Thanks to KYLE for pushing me, coaching me it made me grow during the two years Thanks to Timo for recommending me to the FITMFAFD Thanks to my Tailor partner for being the best partner a designer can ask for CREDITS Tailor partner: Xiaoming Photographer: Hazel Chiu and Jhen Ying Lin Talent: Aaron Vernon. Eris Pruthi. Jentz Zirbel. Daleela. Make-Up Artist: Mari Kobayashi Hair stylist: Satoshi Ikeda 53
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UTKARSH Shukla AMENDED IDENTITY
OOTKARSH.SHUKLA@GMAIL.COM @OOT.KAR.SH +1(631)946-4722
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A FASHION DESIGNER FROM INDIA. HAVING MOVED ALL OVER THE WORLD IN HIS 24 YEARS, HIS FASHION IS HEAVILY
INFLUENCED FROM THE CULTURAL CLASHES HE EXPERIENCED. HE EXPLORES THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN IDENTITY AND REALITY THROUGH AN ARRAY OF MULTIDISCIPLINARY PRACTICES SPEAKING TO A MULTICULTURAL IDENTITY. HIS WORK DRAWS A PARALLEL BETWEEN ABUSE WITHIN A SEXUAL PREMISE AND ABUSE OF CULTURE BY THE BRITISH RAJ OVER INDIA THROUGH FASHION WHILE FOCUSING ON THE CONSCIOUS CULTURAL DEGRADATION OF FLAVOR. THE QUESTION THAT HE POSES WITH HIS WORK IS THE ASK OF COMPLIANCE, BE IT THE CONSTRUCT OF GENDER, SEXUALITY OR NATIONALITY. WITHIN THAT PREMISE HE EXPLORES THE SEMANTICS OF THE PAST WITH THE SEMIOTICS OF THE FUTURE. HE GRADUATED FROM THE PRESTIGIOUS NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, NEW DELHI, WITH A BACHELORS IN FASHION DESIGN, WINNING THE MOST INNOVATIVE GRADUATE COLLECTION AWARD. HE ALSO HAS AN ASSOCIATES DEGREE FROM THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY, NEW YORK. HIS WORK, WHILE IN INDIA FOCUSED A LOT ON WORKING WITH THE ARTISANS AND CRAFTSMEN, SPECIFICALLY WITH THE VARANASI WEAVING COMMUNITY TO CREATE A NEW VERNACULAR FOR THE CENTURY OLD ART OF BROCADE. 55
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THANK YOU TO SAY IT TOOK A VILLAGE TO CREATE THIS BODY OF WORK WOULD BE AN UNDERSTATEMENT. FIRST AND FOREMOST I WOULD LIKE TO EXTEND MY SINCEREST GRATITUDE TO JONATHAN KYLE FARMER, FOR HELPING ME NAVIGATE THIS HIGHLY EMOTIONAL AND HARD EXPLORATION OF SELF. WITH THAT I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO THANK THE ENTIRE MFA FASHION DESIGN STAFF AND COHORT, FOR BEING AN IMMENSE SUPPORT. I WOULD LIKE TO ACKNOWLEDGE MY PHOTOGRAPHY COLLABORATOR, APRIL BUM, FOR ALSO BEING WILLING TO PUSH THE ENVELOPE OF ACCEPTANCE AND TO AVA AND CHLOE WILLIAMS FOR BEING THE WONDERFUL SUBJECT AND SHARING YOUR STORIES. I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO THANK SARAH BYRD AND KIRA CRAFT, FOR MAKING THIS EXPLORATION A WELL ROUNDED RESEARCHED BODY OF WORK, AND FOR HELPING ME MOVE THIS THESIS TO A PLACE WHERE IT WOULD BE MUCH MORE THAN JUST ME. TO KRITIKA MANCHANDA, FOR BEING SO GENEROUS WITH HER KNOWLEDGE AND ALSO BEING AN HONEST CRITIC AT EVERY STEP. AND LASTLY, MY PARENTS AND RICHA AND JEREMY, FOR I WOULDN’T BE IN THIS POSITION IF IT WEREN’T FOR YOUR CONSTANT MOTIVATION AND BELIEF IN ME AND FOR MAKING IT POSSIBLE FOR ME TO DO WHAT I LOVE AND DO IT WITH YOU GUYS HAVING MY BACK. CREDITS APRIL BLUM | INSTA: @APRILBLUMPHOTO UTKARSH SHUKLA | INSTA: @OOT.KAR.SH 57
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WU Yutong
BLACK-HOLE TAILOR yutongwu612@gmail.com www.yutongwu.com +1(857)-302-9210
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The modern tailor, has adapted and grown from traditional tailoring processes, approaches menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern needs conceptually and functionally, creating design that expresses emotion, function, and wearabilty. The Blackhole Tailor collection is grown from the conceptual project <Astro-Tailor>, by observe the shape and illusion of black-hole, creating 3D structures on the flat fabric base on my stitch laying technique, while combining different materials texture and shape to achieve harmony, also keep a good level of function and wearability. 59
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THANK YOU Special thanks to my parents who always support me no matter what Special thanks to All professors who led me to education success Special thanks to my Classmates who always be my side and help me to grown CREDITS Photographers: Hazel Chui. Jhen-Ying Lin Models: Make-Up Artist: Accessory machinist: Yi-Rong Chen Accessory technical design: Han-Fang Hsiao Embroidery technical design/machinist: Yun-Ju Lai 61
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YI-TING Lee
Characters complete characters yitingleedesign@gmail.com @yitingweilee
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Characters were created, and clothes started to be made. <The Thousand Character Classic>
My work combines my calligraphy and fashion identity. The patterns of the collection were first made as a character and then made into clothes which tell the story of characters as clothes and clothes as characters at the same time. This collection was first inspired by my running scripts practice which accompanies me for more then 10 years. By research and self-discovered, I tried to push the concept deeper. To elevate the art of calligraphy beyond decorations in the fashion world. My calligraphy works documents the moments in my life. Consciously and Unconsciously, my personalities, character, emotions at the moment appears in the line qualities in my works. Doing calligraphy is a ritual that I deeply communicate to myself. My character completes the characters and characters complete me. To interpret the concept by the language of fashion, I started defining myself as a calligrapher and a fashion designer, a pattern maker, a cutter. What would it be? How does a Calligrapher do pattern? How would a cutter do calligraphy? 63
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THANK YOU Educator and supporter: Professor Jonathan KYLE Farmer Calligraphy consular: Professor Rong-Da Lin Woven technical support: Professor Jun Jy Hong Knitwear technical support: Professor Jeanine Han. Professor Florence Spurling My lovely family and friends Wendy, Carol and all the sewing machinists CREDITS: Talent: Aaron Vernon. Eris Pruthi. Jentz Zirbel. Daleela. Photographer: Hazel Chiu and Jhen Ying Lin Make-Up Artist: Mari Kobayashi Hair stylist: Satoshi Ikeda Accessory machinist: Yi-Rong Chen. Accessory technical design: Han-Fang Hsiao. Embroidery technical design/machinist: Yun-Ju Lai 65
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YUCHEN Han
A second before awakening alienantofficial@gmail.com https://cargocollective.com/yuchenhan
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A fashion artist who is focused on self-emotion expression with four keywords dream, subconscious, glitch and surreal emotions. The graduation collection A Dream Caused By A Tiny Ant Carrying A Grain of Mega Rice, A Second Before Awaking is based on a six-year-long childhood depressive dream of the designer. The major depression happened in the first academic year at MFA made the designer start to realize more about himself as a person and an artist. After reading the book The Interpretation of Dreams by Sigmund Freud, he connects his childhood experience with the depression experience and realized he has always trying to find a place where he belongs to, a surreal and illusionary world where he could escape from the miserable reality. He would rather describe himself as a glitch rather than a person. All of his emotions are all become glitched imagines. The way how he transfers all these feelings and craziness is suddenly compressing them in his innovative developed couture textile, glitched fringe lace. This is a five layers based and high-temperature compressed handmade textile, the way how he combs millions of fringe hair is just represents the art how he deals with his millions of surreal emotions and makes it real. 67
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THANK YOU Jonathan KYLE Farmer Mother - Wei Liu All FIT MFAFD faculty and peers, My cat Millionaire CREDITS Model: Kseniia Bazhenova Agency: The Queens Model Sophie Hallette 69
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THANK YOU for supporting us:
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THANK YOU for supporting us:
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THANK YOU for supporting us:
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The FIT/Infor Design and Technology Lab congratulates the first FIT MFA Fashion Design Program Graduates, you are the future!
we learn, we work and we unite ideas that shape the future of business and creativity
Congratulations to FIT on their 1st cohort of MFA Fashion Design students from everyone at ARTS THREAD
Congratulations! WGSN congratulates FIT in graduating their first year of MFA Fashion Design Students
WGSN is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading trend authority. Our services cover consumer, fashion and lifestyle forecasting, data analytics, crowd-sourced design validation and expert consulting. Together, we Create Tomorrow. wgsn.com
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