Native American
Jewelry Collection
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Eugene B. Adkins Native American Jewelry Collection Oklahoma collector Eugene Brady Adkins (b.1920, d.2006) was an acquisitive man with an intense interest in the American Southwest. He amassed an art collection totaling almost 3,200 pieces, most of which were made by Native artists between the 1950s and 1990s. This diverse assemblage of baskets, beadwork, paintings and pottery is dominated by nearly 1,200 pieces of jewelry and silverwork that compose the largest portion of the collection. Adkins purchased these pieces from artists at annual juried competitions, such as the Heard Museum Guild Indian Fair and Market in Phoenix, Arizona and the Gallup Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial and Santa Fe Southwestern Association for Indian Arts Indian Market in New Mexico, as well as from galleries and auctions throughout the United States. The collection includes work done in traditional tribally specific styles as well as contemporary pieces. Christina E. Burke 21
Courtesy of American Indian Art Magazine,
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Vol. 34, No. 4, Autumn 2009. http://www.aiamagazine.com
Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art University of Oklahoma 555 Elm Avenue Norman, Oklahoma 73019 The Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art at the University of Oklahoma and the Philbrook Museum of Art in Tulsa share joint stewardship of the Eugene B. Adkins Collection.
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www.ou.edu/fjjma
eugen e b . ad k ins c olle c tion fred j one s jr . mus e um of art
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Navajo – Dine (The People)
Santo Domingo – Kewa
Hopi – Hopituh Shi-nu-mu
Zuni – A:shiwi
The 2000 census reported a Navajo population of 290,000 confirming this as one of the largest tribes in the United States. Their lands are located in three different states including New Mexico, Arizona and Utah. The Navajo and the Apache are both thought to have migrated from Canada, approximately 1000 to 1300 C.E., although this is contested by some tribal people who defer to the early origin stories. In this region of the greater Southwest the Navajo learned to farm and, after the Spanish arrived, pursued other economic means developing herds of sheep and goats. In 1846 the United States took possession of the Southwestern territories from Mexico, at which time the Navajo were weaving baskets and blankets in distinctive patterns. One Navajo, Atsidi Sani, learned the art of working silver from Mexicans who lived close to their reservation. It was only after Sani returned from imprisonment at Fort Sumner in 1867 that he commenced to make silver jewelry, passing it on to his four sons. Others quickly learned and the Navajo nation is now known for creating exquisite silver and turquoise jewelry.
Located halfway between Santa Fe and Albuquerque, Santo Domingo is one of the most conservative Pueblos, leading to a strong continuance of traditional customs and language. Due to the long and violent conflict with the Spanish many Southwestern tribes adopted a certain level of secrecy concerning their rituals and art. Santo Domingo’s small population, fewer than 3,000, also has added to its insular nature. The Pueblo changed its name to Kewa Pueblo in 2010 in order to reflect an indigenous vision of their native land. Santo Domingo Pueblo’s jewelry legacy is longer than any other Southwest tribe, as they did not learn their craft at Indian boarding schools or from Spanish metalworkers. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries almost every Santo Domingo family made jewelry for trade. Many of the same ancient designs and materials are used in their contemporary work. Rolled bead, or heishi, necklaces are a large portion of Santo Domingo jewelry (nos. 9 and 14). Many beads are turquoise or shell, but imported coral is popular as well. Also common to Santo Domingo jewelry are Corn Dance shells inlaid with turquoise, jet and other colored stones (nos. 15 and 19).
The Hopi live in northeast Arizona surrounded by the lands of the Navajo. The village of Oraibi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the Americas, having had residents since 1100 C.E. Early on, the Hopi developed a very advanced culture and exceeded at agriculture, coal mining and art, including pottery and mural painting. They also are known for their katsina carvings: figures representing the Hopi spirit world. Today the Hopi population is just under 7,000. They primarily live in small villages atop and around three mesas. Like other tribes in the Southwest, the Hopi did not work in metal before the arrival of the Spanish. In the late 19th century, a Hopi named Yellow Light learned to work silver from the Zuni. Yellow Light’s influence spread between the mesas and began to be passed down from father to son. Hopi silverwork greatly increased after World War II, when classes were organized for returning veterans, and the distinctive Hopi style of silver overlay was invented. Like their neighbors, the Hopi also have flourished at turquoise mosaic and lapidary work.
The Zuni Pueblo is located in western New Mexico along the Arizona border. Artifacts of several ancient Pueblo peoples exist in this area, and their influence can be seen in contemporary work of the Zuni. Ancestors of the modern Zuni began occupying this area of the Southwestern United States between 1200 and 1680 C.E. Current Zuni population estimates are approximately 8,000 and more than 60% of the population works in art production. While jewelry making began as a craft for men, women are now active designers; often husband and wife will collaborate. The Zuni learned metalworking and stone cutting at the turn of the 20th century from the Navajo. Since then, they have developed their own jewelry style. While the Zuni excel at metalwork, the use of stone and shell lapidary is primary in their work, using both native and imported materials. Fetishes (protective spiritual objects) are principle in Zuni art. According to Zuni creation stories, the gods found the world’s abundance of animals too dangerous for the newly-created humans. They struck many of the animals with lightning, shrinking the beasts to small stones. The Zuni believe that rocks that resemble animals still contain the spirit and power of these ancient beings. Frog fetishes (nos. 6 and 7) are very common and are the major rain fetish. Another popular Zuni symbol is the Rainbow Man. A sacred being who could bridge between worlds, Rainbow Man was originally found on the shields of Zuni warriors.
All the work listed below are by Navajo artists:
All the work listed below are by Hopi artists:
1 Jerry Roan (1919-1977) Watch Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise
15 Kenneth Begay (1913-1977) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise
28 Bessie Padilla Pendant on Chain, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and coral
2 Kenneth Begay (1913-1977) Necklace, n.d. Silver and turquoise
16 Unknown Squash Blossom Necklace, n.d. Silver and turquoise
29 Richard Henry Yazzie Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise
3 Unknown Squash Blossom Necklace, n.d. Silver 4 Michael L. Slim Bracelet, n.d. Silver and lapis lazuli
17 Edison Sandy Smith Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise 18 Mary Marie Lincoln Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise
5 Johnny Mike Begay (d. 1976) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise
19 Unknown Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise
6 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver, coral, and turquoise
20 Yellowhorse Belt Buckle, n.d. Silver, turquoise, serpentine malachite, coral, sugilite, and lapis lazuli see image on cover
7 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise 8 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise
21 Kenneth Begay (1913-1977) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise
9 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise
22 Kenneth Begay (1913-1977) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, coral, and onyx
10 Johnny Mike Begay (d. 1976) Ring, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and coral
23 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise
11 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver and turquoise
24 H. Morgan Squash Blossom Necklace, n.d. Silver, cabochons of turquoise, and shell
12 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise 13 Unknown Insect Brooch, n.d. Silver and turquoise see image right 14 Unknown Squash Blossom Necklace, n.d. Silver and turquoise
All the work listed below are by Santo Domingo artists: 1
Unknown Multi-strand Necklace with Silver Cones, n.d. Silver and coral
2 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and shell
30 H. Morgan Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and coral
3 Sedlio F. Lovato (b. 1929) Buckle, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and coral
31 Joy Hanley Bracelet, n.d. Gold tone metal and turquoise
4 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver and spiny oyster shell
32 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and Morenci turquoise
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9 Unknown Necklace, n.d. Turquoise and shell 10 Tony Aguilar Necklace, n.d. Brass and turquoise 11 Tony Aguilar Bead Necklace, n.d. Brass, turquoise, and beads 12 Tony Aguilar Earrings, n.d. Brass and turquoise
13 Tony Aguilar 5 Mary C. Lovato (b. 1936) Necklace, n.d. Heishi and Disc Necklace, n.d. Brass and turquoise Turquoise, brass, spiny oyster shell, and onyx 14 Charles Lovato (1937-1987) Multi-strand Heishi 6 Harold Lovato (1954-1996) Necklace, n.d. Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise Silver and turquoise 15 Unknown 7 Harold Lovato (1954-1996) Medallion, n.d. Silver Overlay Pendant, n.d. Silver, spiny oyster shell, Silver turquoise, mother of pearl, and onyx 8 Harold Lovato (1954-1996) Bracelet, n.d. 16 Unknown Silver and turquoise Earrings, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and shell
17 Charles Lovato (1937-1987) Multi-strand Heishi Necklace, n.d. Silver and shell beads 18 Unknown Inlaid Shell Pendant, n.d. Bronze, onyx, oyster shell, and turquoise 19 Unknown Inlaid Shell Medallion, n.d. Spiny oyster shell, onyx, turquoise, and white stone 20 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Spiny oyster shell and string see image below
21 Joe Tortalita Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise
1 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Necklace with Multi-stone Bear Paw Pendant, n.d. Silver, mother of pearl, turquoise, onyx, and coral 2 Preston Monongye (1927-1987 ) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, onyx, and mother of pearl 3
Michael Kabotie (Lomawywesa) (1942-2009) Buckle, n.d. Silver and turquoise
4 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, onyx, mother of pearl, coral, and green stone 5
Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Necklace, c. 1970s Silver, coral, ironwood, turquoise, and ivory
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Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Buckle, c. 1970s Silver, lapis lazuli, ironwood, coral, turquoise, wood, and stone
8 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, coral, and mother of pearl 9 Victor Coochwytewa (b. 1922) Pendant, n.d. Silver and turquoise
14 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Snake Pin, c. 1974 Silver, turquoise, coral, and lapis lazuli see image below 15 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise 16 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Medallion with Cord, n.d. Silver, wood, turquoise, and velvet cord
21 Unknown Necklace, n.d. Silver 22 Lawrence Saufkie (b. 1935) Overlay Bracelet, n.d. Silver 23 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Overlay Bracelet, n.d. Silver 24 Unknown Bird Overlay Necklace, n.d. Silver
10 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Mosaic Inlaid Bracelet, c. 1970s 17 Preston Monongye Leather, silver, turquoise, 25 Eveli Sabatie lapis lazuli, coral, and ironwood (1927-1987 ) Ring, n.d. Bracelet, n.d. Silver, oyster, shell, ironwood, Silver, turquoise, onyx, coral, and coral 11 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) and mother of pearl Ring, c. 1970s Silver, coral, ironwood, 18 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) turquoise, and ivory Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, mother of 12 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) pearl, onyx, and coral Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise 19 Unknown 13 Victor Coochwytewa (b. 1922) Man in the Maize Pendant, n.d. Silver Bow Guard, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and leather 20 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Necklace, n.d. Necklace: silver, coral, onyx, turquoise, and shell; Pendant: silver, turquoise, onyx, coral, and mother of pearl
All the work listed below are by Zuni artists: 1
Roger Tsabetsaye Bracelet, n.d. Silver, spiny oyster shell, turquoise, onyx, and mother of pearl
13 Dennis Edaakie (1931-2008) Bolo, n.d. Silver, leather, onyx, coral, and abalone shell 14 Leekya Deyuse (1889-1966) 3 Unknown Silver and Turquoise Bolo Tie Cuff links, n.d. Silver, inlaid turquoise, coral, (Bird), 1938 Silver and turquoise onyx, and mother of pearl 4 Unknown Watchband, n.d. Silver and inlay of shells and stone 5
Unknown Buffalo Dancer Pendant, n.d. Silver, oyster shell, turquoise, onyx, and stone
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Unknown Frog Fetish, n.d. Serpentine and spiny oyster shell
7 Unknown Frog Fetish, n.d. Spiny oyster shell and turquoise
10 Frank Vacit (1915-1999) Ring, n.d. Silver, turquoise, coral, onyx, and shell
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12 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver, coral, tortoise shell, turquoise, and mother of pearl
2 Unknown Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise
9 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and coral
26 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver
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Delbridge Honanie (b. 1946) Earrings, n.d. Wood, silver, turquoise, and shell
8 Leekya Deyuse (1889-1966) Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise
25 Henry Clark Buckle, n.d. Silver and turquoise
27 Clarence Lee (b. 1952) Buckle, n.d. Silver, turquoise, onyx, coral, and mother of pearl
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11 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver, coral, jade, turquoise, onyx, and shell
21 Unknown Channel Inlay Pin of Rainbow Man, n.d. Silver, turquoise, coral, jet, abalone shell, mother of pearl, and tortoise shell see image on left overleaf
22 Frances Leekya (1928-2003) Buckle, n.d. Silver, tortoise shell, turquoise, coral, onyx, and mother of pearl
30 Leekya Deyuse (1889-1966) Bird Fetish Necklace, n.d. Stone beads, spiny oyster, and abalone shell 31 Unknown Mosaic Parrot Pin, n.d. Silver, spiny oyster shell, turquoise, and lapis lazuli 32 Unknown Roadrunner, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and onyx
33 Unknown Waterbird Brooch, n.d. 23 Unknown Silver, mother of pearl, Sunface Brooch, n.d. Silver, turquoise, melon shell, turquoise, and coral coral, jet, and sugilite 34 Unknown Inlay Pin, n.d. 24 Unknown Silver, turquoise, jet, coral, and 16 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. mother of pearl Rainbow Man Brooch, n.d. Silver, onyx, turquoise, and Silver, spiny oyster shell, mother of pearl 35 Unknown turquoise, jet, coral, and Four Directions Pin, n.d. 25 Dennis (1931-2008) & mother of pearl Silver, coral, turquoise, jet, and Nancy Edaakie (b. 1937) mother of pearl 17 Unknown Medallion, n.d. Rainbow Man Ring, n.d. Silver with inlaid coral, 36 Teddy Weahkee (1900-1965) Silver, lapis lazuli, turquoise, turquoise, onyx, mother of oyster shell, and coral pearl, abalone, and tortoise shell Inlaid Shell with Silver see image on right overleaf Edging, 1930 Silver, pink shell, turquoise, jet, 18 Unknown and white shell Necklace with Katsina Mask, 26 Unknown n.d. Four Directions Pin, n.d. Silver, turquoise, oyster shell, Silver, mother of pearl, onyx, 37 Unknown Earrings, n.d. and stone turquoise, and spiny Silver and turquoise oyster shell 19 Dennis Edaakie (1931-2008) 38 Unknown Hummingbird Medallion, n.d. 27 Unknown Dragonfly Brooch, n.d. Silver, jade, tortoise shell, Inlay Pin, n.d. Silver, turquoise, spiny oyster mother of pearl, coral, and Silver, coral, turquoise, jet, shell, and jet abalone shell and mother of pearl 15 Unknown Bolo, n.d. Silver, leather, turquoise, onyx, coral, shell, mother of pearl, and abalone shell
20 Dennis (1931-2008) & Nancy Edaakie (b. 1937) Medallion, n.d. Silver, tortoise shell, and mother of pearl
28 Unknown Watchband, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and spiny oyster shell 29 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and shell
39 Elliot Qualo Belt-Inlay Tortoise Shell with Devil, c. 1967 Leather, silver, turquoise, tortoise shell, coral, and abalone shell
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