free
cultivating the capital foodshed
April/may 2010 flavormags.com
The Results of Our Exclusive Blind Tasting
Washington’s Top Somms Pick Virginia’s Standout Wines by Bill Plante
Kathleen Merrigan David Works for Goliath
Local Roots, National Reach Brew Beer, Grow Mushrooms & Get Kids to Eat Veggies Gardening for Procrastinators With articles by Joel Salatin, Marian Burros, Walter Nicholls, and Jim Law
COUNTRY LIVING IN RAPPAHANNOCK COUNTY www.CheriWoodard.com
WELLSPRING, SPERRYVILLE
THE TASKER HOUSE, LAUREL MILLS
Rappahannock County is known for its unique homes and estates but rarely does a property as significant as Wellspring become available. This impeccable estate on 17 acres in the FT Valley features a painstakingly restored home, 4-car garage, guest house and dramatic pool complex. The home features 4 bdrs. 3 full bths., three fireplaces and a spacious living room that is ideal for entertaining. From the hardwood floors to antique light fixtures, no detail has been spared. $1,580,000
Traditional country images and materials have been reinterpreted in this striking contemporary home. With expansive views from all rooms, compelling outdoor spaces and free flowing natural light, the home deftly integrates a comfortable and playful interior with the dramatic natural setting. The 6 bedroom, 5 1/2 bath., home features a stunning gourmet kitchen, state of the art media room and a sensational music room. 103 acres with long Thornton River Frontage. $2,900,000
HOME ON HITTLES MILL, FLINT HILL
LAND IN RAPPAHANNOCK COUNTY
Natural materials such as cedar shakes, native field stone, richly We have a number of outstanding land listings with water, pasture, grained wood, copper and ceramic tile are deftly woven into a con- forest and outstanding views. Here is a sampling: temporary home gracing a picturesque 25 acre parcel. The 3 bdr., Four Springs Farm, 30 acres +/$400,000 3bth. home’s creative design utilizes space and light to take full Farm on Beaverdam Creel, 27 acres $385,000 advantage the dramatic natural setting. It overlooks a large pond Blackberry Lane, 64 acres $495,000 and lush landscaping with the majestic Blue Ridge commanding Shurgen Lane, 103 acres $775,000 the horizon. $895,000 Hawksbill Farm, 15 acres $289,000
Cheri & Martin Woodard
Roy Wheeler Realty Co. 37C Main Street, Sperryville, VA 22740
(540) 987-8500
The 3rd Annual Potomac Waterfront Celebration of Great Food, Wine, Beer, Spirits, Music & Fun!
June 12 & 13, 2010
HGTV’S
Sabrina Soto
Top Chef Finalist
Carla Hall
•Located in the heart of National Harbor — the pier & plaza •Sample wines from vines near & far •Meet top chefs from DC & around the country •Go Green: Learn about sustainable foods •Demos, Seminars & Tastings Former White House Chef
Walter Scheib
•Relax in the Belgian Beer Café
W
HA
DI
I T ’S
NNER
FOR INFORMATION VISIT WWW.FOODANDWINENH.COM
T’S FO
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H äagen-Dazs loves Honey Bees
T h i n k G l o b a l . T a s t e L o c a l.
Camp Open House: Apr. 25 + May 16 1-3pm
right at your doorstep
right at your doorstep Our Capital foodshed is growing every day.
And is proud to say we’re growing too. Many Our Capital foodshed is growing every day. local distributors tell us they can barely get new Andcopies ofis proud to say we’re growing too. Many on their shelves before hungry local distributors tell usallthey readers snatch them up. can barely get new
copies of on their shelves before hungry readers snatch them By subscribing to all up. , you’ll get the freshest stories about our region’s growers, chefs, winemakers, and By trends subscribing to right ,to you’ll the—freshest stories delivered yourget door rich, flavorful and,our dareregion’s we evengrowers, say it, raw. about chefs, winemakers, and
trends delivered right to your door — rich, flavorful in April and say May,it,new and,And dare we even raw.subscribers will be entered
to win prizes like a tour of Polyface Farms or a seat farm-to-table Andatina April and May,dinner. new subscribers will be entered
to win prizes like a tour of Polyface Farms or a seat at a farm-to-table dinner.
Subscribe to
Cultivating the Capital Foodshed
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6 issues year Foodshed for just $32 Cultivating theaCapital online flavormags.com 6 Subscribe issues a atyear for just $32 Or send payment to Flavor Magazine Subscribe online at flavormags.com P.O. Box 100 Virginia Or Sperryville, send payment to 22740
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Flavor Magazine P.O. Box 100 • april/may 2010 Sperryville, Virginia 22740
36 46
63 features
columns
36
One of Us?
30
The USDA has a reputation of being agribusiness’s unchallenged bodyguard. Deputy Secretary Kathleen Merrigan hopes to change that.
Rebel with a Cause After a Hard Winter
marian burros
46
Many of us were stranded for days this winter, unable to shop for food. Did we learn our lesson?
Growing Pains
52
As Edwards Ham, Honest Tea, and Route 11 Potato Chips have gone from being small, local companies to having a national presence, they have faced pressures to compromise their commitments to sustainability.
Tales from the Field Down in the Valley
Harrisonburg, Virginia, has always been an agricultural town, but it’s gaining a new reputation for its commitment to sustainable, not industrial, agriculture.
natalie mesnard
63
joel salatin
michael clune
Seasonal Table Your Spring Kitchen
Plan your menu around this season’s irresistable offerings.
suzanne simon & bettina stern
in every issue Terroir, our drink section, starts on page 75.
www.flavormags.com
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• april/may 2010
75
10 From the Publisher & the Editor 11 Letters from Readers & Eaters 70 The Guest List 104 Advertiser Directory & Recipe Index
Food security. The local food movement. Farmers markets. Best ginger recipes. Pickle emporiums. Rich land, poor nutrition. Backyard chickens.
Public radio takes food seriously . . . and not so seriously.
NPR News & NPR Talk
103.5 FM 90.7 FM Charlottesville
Shenandoah Valley
Fostering informed, engaged and culturally enriched communities
Flavor food.indd 1
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departments 15
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Local Grazings Happenings on the Foodie Front
From dressings to deer hunting, from blueberries to blogs, we’ve got news for you. And Green Grazings, too, because it’s not just about food.
26
Flavor Café Poste Moderne Brasserie
As part of his commitment to reducing the space between field and fork, chef Rob Weland has created an urban garden at D.C.’s Poste Moderne Brasserie that feeds guests even as it delights them.
32
zora margolis
Flavor Café Mas
For chef-owner Tomas Rahal, the art of sharing food is what gives Mas its flavor and energy.
43 43
amber davis
grace reynolds
Artisans & Entrepreneurs Out of the Woods
Mark Jones of Sharondale Mushrooms is bringing several varieties of fungus to home gardens and restaurant menus.
55
walter nicholls
In the Food Desert A Home-Grown Curriculum
The University of Maryland and the federal Food Supplement Nutrition Education program have collaborated on a curriculum to teach elementary school students healthy eating habits.
59
wendy w. simmons
In the Garden Catching Up
Procrastinating? Distracted by glorious weather? Spring is well underway, but it’s not too late to get that garden going.
sean sheppard
32
Cover photo taken by Molly McDonald Peterson at the Georgetown home of Beverly and John Fox Sullivan. 8
• april/may 2010
Working Lands Forum II: The Growing Local Challenge The Great Frederick Fairgrounds Frederick, MD April 21, 2010 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM Sponsored by National Capital Farms in cooperation with the Regional Agricultural Working Group
NATIONALCAPITALFARMS.ORG
We Ship Artisan Cheese!
Handcrafted & Selected by the Cowgirls featuring the finest artisan cheeses Visit our cheese shop in Washington, D. C. at 919 F Street NW in Penn Quarter.
202.393.6880 cowgirlcreamery.com
www.flavormags.com
9
from the publisher & the editor This is the growing season for farmers and for Flavor, too. Our readership continues to grow, reaching from Charlottesville and Richmond in the south, to Fredericksburg in the east, to D.C. and Bethesda in the north, and to the Shenandoah Valley in the west. Distributors can hardly keep the magazine in stock, and readers tell us often how they devour each issue cover to cover and then start pining for the next one. This year we hope to grow organically—by asking our readers to buy subscriptions. A subscription to Flavor supports the local food movement in several ways. It gives us the resources to increase our distribution and reach more people with our message. It also allows us to add more pages in each issue, making room for more articles about the local farms and businesses that work hard to bring you sustainably raised food and wine. And with this additional revenue stream, we can keep our advertising rates down for the smaller, regional businesses that are often priced out of print advertising. With a subscription, you’re guaranteed a copy of the magazine as soon as it comes out. And to sweeten the deal, we are entering new subscribers in a drawing for several prizes, such as a tour of Polyface Farms and a farm-to-table dinner. Use the subscription card inside the magazine, call us at the number below, or visit flavormags.com to get a subscription for yourself or for a friend. The local wine industry is also growing. Despite widespread belt tightening in 2009, sales of Virginia wine were up 7.4 percent to just under 400,000 cases— outpacing overall wine sales in Virginia, which were up only 2.8 percent. One area where sales of Virginia wine have room to grow is Washington, which led us to gather an esteemed panel of sommeliers from D.C.-area restaurants for a blind tasting of Virginia wines. We hope their picks will make their way onto more wine lists in the Capital. For this tasting, it was not feasible to taste hundreds of wines. So instead of having an open call as we have had for past blind tastings, we invited those vineyards that have risen to the top in our previous tastings and those most respected by their peers. We did not favor advertisers or medal winners or large vineyards. The panel included some of the more influential wine stewards in our region. None of the panelists is employed by an establishment that advertises in Flavor, nor were panelists compensated in any way. We are grateful for their participation, and we take it as a sign of Flavor’s increasing profile across the Capital foodshed that these sommeliers accepted our invitation. In the near future, we’ll begin a series of comparative blind tastings where Virginia wines are presented alongside wines from other regions. Keep reading!
PUBLISHER
Melissa J. Harris advertising director
Erica Gentile-Hussar account executives
ISSUE NO. 10
Wendy Gray, Molly P. Hannon, Lea Vittitow
EDITOR
Jennifer Conrad Seidel
graphic designer
ART DIRECTOR
Anna Curtis
Nora Monroe photographer Molly McDonald Peterson editorial assistant
Amber Davis
circulation
CHIEF INVESTMENT & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT OFFICER
Lynn Sullivan
copyeditor Laura Merricks
ADVISORY BOARD
Matt Benson, Marian Burros, Sherri Fickel, Stephanie Giles, Michel Heitstuman, Kevin Kraditor, Jim Law, Bernie Prince, Maggie Rogers, John Fox Sullivan, Chad Zakaib
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& distribution manager
Christopher Harris
Join us on Facebook! Find a link at flavormags.com
Melissa J. Harris publisher
Jennifer Conrad Seidel editor
SUBSCRIPTIONS & ADVERTISING
A one-year, six-issue subscription is $32. Send subscription and advertising inquiries to Flavor Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 100 Sperryville, VA 22740 voice (540) 987-9299 fax (540) 518-9190 info@flavormags.com www.flavormags.com Copyright ©2010 by Flavor Magazine, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission of the publisher is prohibited. Flavor is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. Flavor is an independent, bimonthly publication created in VIRGINIA and is not affiliated with any nationally franchised publications.
letters from readers & eaters joel salatin is correct about making local food
more available. [See “Rebel with a Cause: What We Can Learn from the Big Box Stores” in the Feb./ Mar. issue.] As good as farmers markets and CSAs are (we make our living at farmers markets and restaurants), we farmers are not getting strong enough market penetration. To get our rural communities and economies viable, we need many more farmers selling in many more markets. If we are selling only 1 percent of what our communities need, just imagine what 25 percent would do for our eco-communities. To get there, what to do? Where will it happen? Who is going to do it? How will it get done? When will it happen ? Where will local food appear on a more regular basis? It will appear in small- to medium-size independently owned food stores surrounding the edges of population centers. There is going to be a reinvention of the local food market, and the operators are going to come from the ranks of the newly unemployed. The big box stores crushed these markets. I know firsthand, as I had a small retail food store and was crushed. Now I am a farmer and loving it. We now know that local is
better for us in so many ways that we will go back to supporting small retailers. Who will be the farmers? The ranks of the unemployed will become our new farm entrepreneurs out of the necessity of “taking care of one’s family.” Many of our unemployed and underemployed are bright, intelligent, resourceful and hard working. They are unemployed because of NAFTA and the theory that global is more important than local. Jobs may be gone, but not opportunities. Land and storefronts are available. Someone is going to farm that land, and someone is going to sell the farm products to the community. We are going to need more and more local food as industrial agriculture becomes more and more We love to hear from you! Send letters, suggestions, and questions to editor@flavormags.com Leave comments at flavormags.com And become a fan on Facebook
unsustainable. Opportunities to produce good, healthy food are going to be found everywhere. How will it happen? This will be the most challenging aspect of the future, and it always has been. Challenges are what make us rise up and figure out how to get things done. The knowledge and infrastructure for independent retailers still exists. The knowledge and infrastructure for the farming community is being re-established, because it has definitely been destroyed by corporate agriculture. Will the rise of the independent retailer and farmer move together? That is a guess I will not make, but it is no question that it will happen. The when is now. Richard Bean, Double H Farm Nelson County, VA
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Spring is in the air and“Come the warm sap yourself is rising. by the fire.”
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A Tuscan getaway close to home.
Experience the farm fresh creations of Chef Tarver King. Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday with brunch and dinner on Sunday.
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692 Federal Street | Paris, VA 20130 540.592.3900
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local grazings
Happenings on the Foodie Front Amber Davis
Books, Films, and Discussions, Oh My! This year’s Arlington Reads, a one-book initiative sponsored by the Arlington Public Library to promote reading and community discussion, is centered on the topic of our food—where it comes from and how sustainable our current agricultural system is. Made possible by the Friends of the Arlington Public Library, the featured author this year is novelist, essayist, poet, and Kentucky farmer Wendell Berry, one of the founding members of the local food movement. Berry will speak at the
Arlington Central Library on May 3 at 7 p.m. The book selected for this year’s event is Berry’s novel The Memory of Old Jack, which will be the subject of a community discussion on April 19. The library is also hosting other events, including several film screenings, discussions with area farmers, and an event with urban farmer Novella Carpenter, author of the critically acclaimed Farm City. Arlington Reads arlingtonreads2010.wordpress.com
Crackers with a Cause While owning a small gourmet shop in Berlin, Maryland, in 2008, Guy Bashore became dissatisfied with the quality of the crackers served during wine tastings. Bashore decided to take matters into his own hands, literally. He combined artisan flatbread, olive oil, parmesan, and simple seasonings, creating a new house cracker. When individuals began coming to the shop specifically to buy the crackers, Bashore capitalized on the large demand and launched Little Ragghi’s Crackers. The crackers are named after Raggatha Calentine, a friend and co-worker who helped to produce the cracker. To honor her, a portion of the proceeds go to the charity of her choice, the Native American Family Camp. The crackers—which have gained a national reputation of being “quite possibly the word’s most addictive cracker”—are now available at select retail stores in 25 states and online. Little Ragghi’s Crackers (443) 880-6846, www.ragghiscrackers.com
Preserving Local Treasures The owners of the Battletown Inn—the only hotel in Berryville, Virginia, near Winchester— are caretakers of one of the oldest buildings in town: a 200-year-old structure that was home to the daughter of Benjamin Berry (the founder of the town) and later used as a hospital during the Civil War. But these innkeepers are also caretakers of their local food system. The inn’s restaurant, headed by executive chef Brian Whitson, procures ingredients from several local farms, such as MacIntosh Farms. In keeping with Berryville’s current “food renaissance,” the inn keeps regional microbrews on tap and will carry Catoctin Creek rye spirits as soon as they’re available. Guests are also encouraged to visit the many well-known wineries a short drive from the inn. Battletown Inn (540) 955-4100, www.thebattletowninn.com
Hunters Are Locavores, Too For the ultimate local food experience, enroll in one of Jack Landers’s Deer Hunting for Locavores courses, which teach individuals how to hunt and process their own deer. As Landers saw the local food movement gaining momentum, he realized that many individuals might want to learn how to hunt for their own food. So he began to teach, train, and provide the necessary resources for others to master the skills. After his class was written up in the New York Times last year, the interest in his course skyrocketed—so much so that he now offers the entire program as a single weekend course and receives e-mails from individuals all over the world about signing up. He has also written a book and is looking for a publisher. This year, Landers is partnering with Mas in Charlottesville to develop recipes for starlings, an invasive bird species, to be featured in his next book, Eating Aliens, along with other invasive species like snakeheads and Nile monitor lizards. He will also be traveling around the nation and perhaps overseas to conduct workshops to benefit local Slow Food chapters. The Locavore Hunter blog rule-303.blogspot.com www.flavormags.com
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Cooking Classes: Hands-On or On Screen R U S T I C
M E D I T E R R A N E A N
D I N I N G
birra/ vin/ liquor
Flowers by Secret Gardens 434.249.0903
Wednesday - Sunday Dinner starting at Five Thirty
caminocville@gmail.com 220 W Market St Charlottesville,Va. 22902
434.293.2323
y Chefs Ian Douglass and Brad Spates inspire and educate future chefs of Northern Virginia with their hands-on cooking classes at Cookology, a recreational culinary school located in Dulles Town Center Mall. The school opened last February and has since become a local destination for food and wine lovers to learn new skills and take part in fun, interactive classes and food and wine pairings. In a five-week culinary boot camp, students learn everything from basic knife skills and sauces to roasting and poaching. Other boot camps will school students in preparing classic pastries and homemade breads or Italian cuisine. Birthday party cooking classes for kids (ages four and up) are offered on the weekend, and teens can learn to cook from professional chefs. Cookology www. cookologyonline.com
Follow chef Karl Brown as he deconstructs recipes and visits local farms and fields from which the ingredients originate on the new cooking show, Cooking Fresh, Cooking Local, airing every Sunday on WJAL TV68 and sponsored by Stonecrest Farms, an all-natural beef farm in Sharpsburg, Maryland. Brown and other host chefs introduce viewers to the freshest available products found from Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia. Each chef walks viewers through a meal’s preparation, teaching them how to incorporate local items into their everyday lives while promoting the businesses and farmers that produce them. The show is also co-sponsoring an Eggfest in Martinsburg, West Virginia, on May 8, which will feature local food exhibits and cooking demonstrations on Big Green Egg grills. Cooking Fresh, Cooking Local (301) 991-0265 www.cookingfreshcookinglocal.com
Still Fresh Here are a few opportunities to see the film Fresh this spring. April 15, 7:00 p.m. at Mockingbird Restaurant & Roots Music Hall in Staunton, Virginia Sponsored by Transition Staunton Augusta and Staunton Green 2020 • April 21, 7:30 p.m. at Falls Church Community ArtSpace Food provided by the Falls Church Farmers Market Chef program partners. Local farmers will also attend. • April 22 (time to be determined) at St. Anne’s Belfield School in Charlottesville Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms will make a guest appearance. Fresh www.freshthemovie.com 16
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local grazings
Think Globally, Cook Locally
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From June 17–20, the Park Hyatt Masters of Food & Wine Tour of the World will stop in Washington, D.C., at the Park Hyatt. (The D.C. event comes between stops in Buenos Aires and Paris.) Attendees watch the nation’s most talented chefs and sommeliers team up with innovative food producers and farmers from across the country to produce world-class menus based AL t GO TUR on sustainably Araised, farmOD N fresh products. The four-day schedule includes visits to an area farmers market and a day at Chapel Hill Farm in Berryville, Virginia. Educational seminars on maintaining sustainable crops and appreciating the country’s finest boutique American wines, tea tastings, and wine and cheese pairing sessions are also on the itinerary. Park Hyatt Masters of Food & Wine Tour of the World www.mastersfoodandwine.com
The Next Chapter
Yumzie
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It’s not always easy to find homemade or artisanal food products close to home; that idea was what spurred three friends to found Foodzie, an online food marketplace aimed at helping small food producers reach a large and untapped customer base. (Think Etsy for food.) The San Francisco company, which has Virginia roots (the founders met at Virginia Tech), showcases over 1,500 items from vendors across the country. Users can search by region and order online. Customers in the Capital foodshed can find food options from several area vendors, like quality, whole leaf teas from Urbanitea in Silver Spring, Maryland, and gourmet, all-natural condiments form Sabrosa Foods in Norfolk, Virginia. Foodzie  foodzie.com
and all that it brings
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Richmond Slow Food Chapter  richmondfoodcollective.blogspot.com Slow Food USA  www.slowfoodusa.org Richmond Earth Day Festival  earthdayrichmond.org
Celebrate Spring 100 %
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Last fall, a group of Richmonders banded together to start the area’s first Slow Food Chapter. The organization celebrates the region’s food, educates neighbors about topics related to maintaining a stable and healthy local food system, and advocates for change in our current, homogenized food culture. The Richmond chapter will host a potluck at the end of April and host a screening of the documentary Fresh later this year. The chapter will also sponsor a table at this year’s Richmond Earth Day Festival.
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Toigo Orchards
D
Toigo
750 South Mtn. Estates Rd. Sh i p p en sb ur g , PA 1 7 2 5 7
Thank you for supporting local farms!
750 Sout Shippen
New Market Location!
FRESHFARM MARKET, BY THE WHITE HOUSE Vist: www.ToigoOrchards.com for more details
Toigo Orchards
4PVUI .UO &TUBUFT 3E t Shippensburg, Pa 17257
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Cheese Image - Max resolution
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Blogging Between Meals According to Ivy Inn Restaurant’s Chef Angelo Vangelopoulos, it is just as important to feed your customers outside of the restaurant as it is to satisfy them in the dining room. That’s why he and his Sous Chef Mike Perry have established and regularly maintain kitchen blogs, where they share pictures of the food they are creating, as well as post new and creative cooking ideas for their friends, family, fellow regional chefs, and customers. The chefs also use their blogs to highlight where they are sourcing their ingredients, allowing their readers to develop closer and more personal relationships with both the restaurant and the regional food vendors mentioned, like Polyface Farms and Double H Farm. By establishing an outside link with their audience, the chefs have been able to successfully bridge the separation between the kitchen and the actual dining experience. Ivy Inn Restaurant (434) 977-1222, www.ivyinnrestaurant.com
Keep It Real
Bring Me a Shrub! It might surprise you to know that shrubs, the ubiquitous colonial beverages sold at D.C. Whole Foods Markets and numerous historical sites in Virginia, originate from Tait Farm, located in Centre Hall, Pennsylvania. Made from fresh fruit vinegar, organic cane sugar, and spices, shrubs are one of 50 artisanal products manufactured at the farm. Visitors can browse the greenhouse and the harvest shop, where organic fruits and vegetables grown on the farm are sold, and sign up for a CSA program. A free Saturday morning spring gardening series is offered in April and May, and the annual spring open house (May 1–2) will showcase new spring products and plants.
Although Paul and Sarah Deigl have a long history of working in the restaurant industry, the thought of opening up their own restaurant didn’t cross their minds until last year. When a favorite lunch spot in Orange, Virginia, closed suddenly last fall, the couple seized the opportunity to bring fresh, local foods to an area that needed more healthy options and opened Real Food—a joint catering, custom baking, and lunch establishment. Real Food offers a large selection of local foods sourced from nearby farms, such as pork from Papa Weaver’s in Orange, beef from Neala Farm in Madison, and lamb from Retreat Farm in Rapidan.
Tait Farm Foods (814) 466-2386, www.taitfarmfoods.com
True & Essential
Real Food (540) 661-7261, www.realfoodva.com
The Frenchman’s Corner
Over 200+ Specialty and Craft Brews 50+ Varieties of Cheese Sliced to order We are a USDA-inspected abbatoir and retail meat market • Natural Beef, Pork, Lamb, Goat, Bison, Chicken, & Eggs • Humane slaughter & processing of livestock • Whole BBQ pigs available • Ask about our “Pink Label” meats True & Essential Meats 256 Charles St. Harrisonburg, VA 540 – 434 – 9920 Monday thru Saturday www.temeats.com
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U.S.
INSPECTED AND PASSED BY DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
EST.7240
Wines from Virginia & the World
Tastings Daily & Fridays 6-8p 1 2 9 E as t D av is Stre et Cu lp ep er, VA 22701 w w w.fre nchma ncor ne r.com 5 4 0- 825- 8025
local grazings
Dishing Up Local Fare Since opening in October 2009, Camino has become Charlottesville’s premier restaurant for old-world southern European and Mediterranean fare. Owners Sean Thomas and Drew Hart are following the European tradition of incorporating as many local products as possible into their dishes and are showcasing underappreciated regional and small-production wines. This spring, the restaurant will be expanding its outdoor dining area. In April, Camino will host a Caromont cheese dinner and a screening of the documentary Food Fight, which explores the evolution of America’s food culture and the birth of anti-corporate agriculture in California, with director Chris Taylor. Camino (434) 293-2323
u Located in Staunton’s historic downtown district, Staunton Grocery is a destination for locals and visitors alike who wish to savor the finest local fare with a modern twist. A graduate of the New England Culinary Institute, chef-owner Ian Boden spent 10 years in New York City before coming to the Shenandoah Valley. This spring, the restaurant will reopen on Sundays, offering a $20 optional prix fixe brunch with mimosas and Bloody Marys. On April 14, Boden will present a special six-course spring tasting menu, hosted at the restaurant’s new mahogany tasting bar. The restaurant also offers freshly prepared foods to go, such as homemade soups, salads, and pastas. Staunton Grocery (540) 886-6880, www.stauntongrocery.com
Located in downtown Charles Town, W. Va., just minutes from historic Harper’s Ferry, Dish has served as a leader in the region’s local food movement since it opened in 2008. In addition to sourcing many ingredients from local area farms, such as Tudor Hall Farm and Blue Morning Farm, the restaurant is introducing the community to farm-fresh foods from Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Maryland. Through its ongoing Community Livability Lecture Series, Dish brings in guest speakers to educate the community about protecting and sustaining the region’s resources. On the first Wednesday of every month, the restaurant offers theme-based cooking classes. In addition, Dish offers regular beer and wine tastings and live music, and it has also recently opened a bakery, selling fresh-baked bread, pastries, house-made granola, and cookies. Dish (304) 728-8464, www.wvdish.com
Mountain Laurel
Montessori Farm School 7th–9th Grades RESTAURANT
Flint Hill, Virginia
A Name to Remember.... A Meal You’ll Never Forget.
A dynamic land-based curriculum
-Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post
219 E Davis St Culpeper, VA www.fotisrestaurant.com (540) 829-8400
540.636.4257
mlmfarmschool@earthlink.net MountainLaurelMontessori.org Front Royal Campus: Birth–6th Grades
MLM_Flavor_03-10.indd 1
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local grazings
amanda krueger
A Fruitful Endeavor
Spring10FlavorAd
3/25/10
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As a former manager at Westmoreland Berry Farm, Anne Geyer has been in the berry business since the 1980s. But when she and her husband bought a house in Hanover County in 2003, she noticed that there weren’t many local options for buying fresh berries between Charlottesville and Williamsburg. After receiving a USDA specialty crop grant in 2008, Geyer acquired 10 acres of land in the county and established Agriberry Farm. The farm, which has grown to house over 12,000 plants representing 14 different berry crops, currently offers CSAs in Richmond which run from early May to mid-September. Geyer wants to introduce Richmonders to fresh berries and help train a new generation of farmers by offering internships and work opportunities for young adults. The farm is still accepting applications for this summer’s training program and will host a volunteer day on April 24. Using Agriberry as a prototype, Geyer hopes to establish several similar berry farms in the region over the next five years. Agriberry Farm (804) 559-1791, www.agriberry.com
Fit for a Queen For Virginia’s finest soups, dressings, and sauces, look no further than family-owned, specialty food company Montebello Kitchens in Charlottesville, Virginia. At one time, Montebello Kitchens was a small eating establishment with only three tables, but chef and owner Steven Lynch has built his reputation over the years by creating some of the region’s freshest local and organic food products. At this year’s Scovie Awards (the world’s preeminent competition for hot and spicy gourmet products), Montebello’s gourmet chipotle ketchup took home a silver medal. This achievement is among many Lynch has received over the years; others include being a finalist for The Next Food Network Star and serving his peanut soup to Queen Elizabeth II on her visit to Jamestown during its 400-year anniversary. The company’s four dressings, three peanut soups, and four sauces contain no preservatives or artificial ingredients and are sweetened with organic agave nectar, a healthier substitute for sugar. Order the company’s products online or pick them up in specialty food shops in Virginia, Washington, D.C., Maryland, and Pennsylvania. Montebello Kitchens www.montebellokitchens.com
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Teeny Bites It all started when Jessica and Susan Partain’s artistic mother brought home polymer clay for them to experiment with. This arts project has since grown into Inedible Jewelry, a profitable side business of tiny food jewelry: avocado earrings, sushi charm bracelets, shrimp and grits cuff links. This spring, the Partains are working on a new line of foodie rings, as well as a wide selection of colorful flower cupcake charms. They sell their creations online, at various regional craft shows, and at the Charlottesville City Market—where the two first began selling their products in 2006. This year, their jewelry will be carried in the Smithsonian National Museum of American History gift shop. The two recently published The Polymer Clay Cookbook and regularly teach classes on making these delightful treats. Inedible Jewelry inediblejewelry.com
Put a Cork in It Carpet Plus, a full-service carpet installation company located in Charlottesville, Virginia, recently launched the area’s first organized cork recycling program, Re-Cork C’Ville. Company members began the program last December after discovering that over 15 billion corks end up in landfills each year—even though cork is 100 percent natural, biodegradable, and renewable. Drop-off boxes where individuals can deposit their used corks can be found at many businesses throughout Charlottesville, Afton, Ruckersville, Waynesboro, and Crozet. The used cork is sent to a recycling facility, where it can be reused to make products like flooring, building insulation, soil conditioners, automotive gaskets, shoe soles, and sports equipment. The company has currently collected and recycled over 30,000 corks. Re-Cork C’Ville (434) 977-7587, www.carpetplusonline.com/recork
Maryland’s Green Team When the nonprofit Bethesda Green launched in 2008, it was one of the only regional organizations established to provide educational resources for residents and community businesses seeking to implement sustainable growth initiatives. Today, the group regularly hosts panel discussions, brown bag lunches, and internship and job fairs for the community. The organization’s 3,000-foot converted commercial space provides a working model of a green business, complete with reclaimed corkboard flooring and low volatile organic compound (VOC) paints. The space also serves as a green business incubator, providing networking opportunities, mentoring services, and a shared workspace for companies interested in going green. Executive Director Dave Feldman hopes that Bethesda Green will serve as a model for other communities looking for ways to develop and promote their own livability projects. Bethesda Green (240) 396-2440, www.bethesdagreen.org www.flavormags.com
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Local Food for You, Industrial Food for Your Pets? When making decisions about what to feed your loved ones, keep your furry, four-legged family members in mind. t The Big Bad Woof, an organic and holistic pet food and supplies retailer, was founded in 2005 by Pennye Jones-Napier and Julie Paez with the understanding that nutritious food options and wholesome products positively affect pets’ wellbeing and vitality. The company’s 100 percent wind-powered flagship store in D.C.’s Old Takoma neighborhood stocks allnatural and fair-trade items. The Big Bad Woof supports a number of animal welfare initiatives, sponsors adoption events every weekend with local shelters and rescue organizations, and hosts monthly “Woof Clinics” at their stores to educate owners on pet care topics like nutrition, canine massage, acupuncture, and basic training. The Big Bad Woof (202) 747-3434, www.bbwoofinc.com
The call to create Chow Now Pet Food came to Carole King after the untimely death of Russ, a beloved family pet. She began in-depth research into holistic pet care and animal
nutrition, even going back to school to pursue a veterinary assistant certification. When she learned the understated benefit of feeding pets raw and all-natural diets, she founded Chow Now Pet Food, a company focused on providing balanced and healthy whole-food pet products. The entire product line is certified organic, the ingredients are sourced and selected directly by King from local and sustainable Virginia farms (such as The Farm at Sunnyside and Heartland Harvest), and the packaging is recyclable. King also conducts regular raw-feeding seminars at local businesses. Chow Now products can be found in specialty pet food stores, holistic veterinary offices, grocers, and farm buyers clubs throughout Virginia, Maryland, and D.C. Chow Now Pet Food (540) 364-3934, www.chownowpetfood.com
Adam Beslove wants his dog to eat food that nature intended— food free from grains and the added preservatives and chemicals commonly found in commercial pet food products. In 2008, after years of making homemade dog food, Beslove decided to share his products with the public by founding Wolfie’s Wild Pet Foods. His products are made from raw meats and veggies that come predominantly from neighboring farms and local food suppliers, most of which are located within an hour’s drive of the company’s Stuarts Draft facility. His pet food is distributed through Polyface Farms and is available both online and in organic and specialty pet food stores throughout the region, including many Whole Foods Markets in Northern Virginia. Wolfie’s All-Natural Dog Food (703) 929-7909, www.wilddogfood.com
GALLERY
www.vineripefarm.com
NEW HOME CONSTRUCTION RESTORATION KITCHEN AND BATH DESIGN MILLWORK CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT 540.660.1619 www.brannockbuilt.com
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122 EAST DAVIS STREET CULPEPER, VIRGINIA WWW.SARASCHNEIDMAN.COM 540-825-0034
VINE RIPE FARM MILLWOOD, VA
local green grazings
Recycling Worth a High Five Many of the products we use on an everyday basis, such as yogurt cups, hummus tubs, and water purification filters, are made using No. 5 plastics—packaging that most communities don’t accept at recycling centers. To address this issue, Eric Hudson founded Preserve in 1996 with two goals in mind: keep No. 5 plastics out of landfills and find a way to reuse them in the creation of practical household goods, like toothbrushes, dinnerware, and razors. The company’s Gimme 5 program allows consumers to deposit their plastic containers at convenient drop boxes located at various retail and food stores, such as Whole Foods Markets, around the country. If consumers can’t find a drop-off location near them, they can mail their No. 5 plastics to the company’s processing plant by downloading a mailing label from its website. Preserve (888) 354-7296, www.preserveproducts.com
Green Grazers Linda and Clay R. Trainum of Autumn Olive Farms north of Waynesboro, Virginia, want to reduce the number of invasive plants that are overtaking the region’s native plants and grasses and introduce individuals to one of the healthiest yet overlooked local meats in the marketplace: South African Boer Bok goats. They discovered that Boer Boks’ diet consists primarily of plants that are considered insidious to native species and land in the Shenandoah Valley. As a bonus, they naturally and efficiently convert this forage to healthy, all-natural meat. The farm’s meat, which is USDA inspected and processed at T&E Meats in Harrisonburg, can be found on menus at the Ivy Inn in Charlottesville and at Zynodoa in Staunton. The farm’s 70-plus goats are part of an invasive species plant management program at the Frontier Culture Museum in Staunton, where they clear about an acre of invasive forage a day in certain seasons. Autumn Olive Farms (540) 941-0081, autumnolivefarms.blogspot.com
Culpeper, Virginia www.makeupserenity.com 540-522-0777
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WINE BAR
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Casual Dining on the Patio & Garden MOUNTAIN MASSAGE
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Wines with a sense of place Sauvignon Blanc and red Bordeaux blends and varietals Extreme viticulture in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia
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Ellen Seide, CMT, NCTMB 540-636-4551 402 Virginia Avenue Front Royal, Virginia
Bar & Bistro
chefs & owners David & Stacy Gedney formerly of the Inn at Little Washington
Lunch & Dinner Tuesday to Saturday 206 South Royal Avenue Fron Royal, Virginia JSGOURMET.COM 540.636.9293
Wed - Sat, 11am-5pm Sunday, 12pm-5pm Our wine is our focus We do not allow limos, buses or groups larger than six
Glen Manor Vineyards 2244 Browntown Road Front Royal, Virginia 22630 (540)635-632 www.glenmanorvineyards.com
Where the Blue Ridge Mountians... meet the Shenandoah River
Front Royal,Virginia
Poste Moderne Brasserie Zora Margolis Photos by Molly McDonald Peterson
In D.C., Rob Weland of Poste Moderne Brasserie celebrates local food and goes to great lengths to grow some himself. Mirror, mirror on the wall, who’s the greenest chef of all? D.C. chefs who look into their magic mirror and ask it that question will see the image of Robert Weland smiling back at them. Lauded as one of the leading eco-conscious businesses in the capital, Poste Moderne Brasserie, with Weland at the helm, won the 2009 Mayor’s Environmental Excellence Award for outstanding achievement by a restaurant. Patio-to-Table Many chefs’ menus now feature locally sourced and organically grown ingredients, but since his arrival in 2004, Weland has brought his vision of sustainability and ecological sensitivity to every aspect of Poste. One of the first things Weland did was turn the interior patio of the Hotel Monaco in Penn Quarter, where Poste is located, into a lush oasis where he planted herbs, salad greens, tomatoes, and other vegetables, grown organically in raised beds and planters that 26
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surround the outdoor dining tables. Weland speaks proudly of the time slow food pioneer Alice Waters dined on the patio: “She was sitting there, smelling the tomato plants and the wood grill. She really got what the experience is all about.” Though inspired by his grandfather, who was an ardent vegetable gardener in South Jersey, where he grew up, Weland had never actually grown anything himself until he was a chef at the Peninsula Hotel in Manhattan. There, he started a rooftop herb and vegetable garden, which he says was the first one in a commercial building in New York City. As a result, the rooftop bar at the hotel became a popular destination. In fall 2009, Weland planted 14 fruit trees in Poste’s patio— cherries, heirloom apples, quinces, figs, and almonds. So far, the trees appear to have survived the district’s severe winter weather, though it will be a few years before they will bear enough fruit to serve to guests. The small hoop houses he put up to shelter some of his planters during cold weather, however, collapsed under the weight of the snow. He hopes that a small greenhouse can be located there in the near future. The patio will formally open for the season on Earth Day (April 22, 2010) with an event that is open to the public, featuring farm stands and refreshments.
Since his arrival in 2004, Rob Weland has brought his vision of sustainability and ecological sensitivity to every aspect of Poste. Hundreds of pounds of vegetable and other organic scraps from the kitchen and bar are composted weekly and used to enhance the soil in the garden. Cooking oil is recycled for diesel fuel. All disposables used in the restaurant are made of 100 percent biodegradable corn-based materials. In 2007, Poste stopped using bottled water and instead installed an on-site water filtration system that offers purified water in both still and carbonated form. Other examples of Weland’s vision include energy-efficient lighting; environmentally friendly cleaning products; menus printed on recycled paper with soy-based ink; organic, biodynamic, and fair-trade coffee and other beverages; and a robust recycling program. But the primary focus of his environmental and sustainable mission is expressed in the food he serves to his guests. To Market, To Market Weland maintains strong relationships with local growers, buying as much as he can from them. For his “Market-to-Market” dinners on Thursdays—when the nearby Penn Quarter FreshFarm Market is open—Weland takes 12 to 15 diners on a tour of the market to meet the farmers and get a close-up Poste’s guests can sit on the Hotel Monaco patio, where they are surrounded by some of the very plants that produce the ingredients for their meal. At left, chef Rob Weland gives two diners a tour of the garden before taking them to the nearby Penn Quarter farmers market, where they will choose the ingredients for their dinner. www.flavormags.com
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Asparagus and Bresaola Salad Bresaola (breh-ZOHL-ah) is air-dried, cured beef. Any other cured or air-dried meat can be substituted . Serves one as a main course or two to three as a starter.
Each year, Rob Weland and members of his kitchen staff visit farms where meat and produce served at Poste are procured. “It’s so important for the young cooks to see where the food comes from,” he says. tutorial on how he chooses what he buys. They then return to the restaurant patio, where he prepares a meal for them using market produce. For his “Twenty Bites” dinners during the summer season, Weland serves four diners at a chef’s table in the kitchen, featuring dishes created from herbs and produce grown on the patio. From spring to fall, there are daily “Poste Roasts” with pastured pig, baby goat, lamb, or duck spit-roasted on the outdoor wood grill. Patrons are encouraged to call in advance and express a preference, says Poste manager Adam Sanders, and Weland will do his best to accommodate their requests. He credits his time in Lyon, France—where he worked for both Pierre Orsi and Paul Bocuse—for his commitment to seasonality, to searching out the finest and freshest ingredients, to treating ingredients with simplicity and respect, and to making diners aware of the importance of what goes into the dishes. The menu at Poste, which is organized into categories (“ocean,” “the garden,” “the pasture”), changes frequently, depending on what is fresh and seasonal. Weland makes his own jams, patés and terrines, salame, pickles, and relishes. Visit and enjoy a plate of housemade charcuterie made with local grass-fed meat, accompanied by an Arnold Palmer cocktail made with Earl Grey tea-infused vodka and fresh lemonade. Or have the bartender create a drink for you with a house-infused liquor taken from the sunlit glass wall that holds dozens of bottles. Key lime Bacardi? Blueberry and lavender cachaça? Ancho chile and horseradish vodka? 28
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3 small bunches asparagus, preferably purple 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard Juice of 2 lemons, plus more for drizzling ¹/8 teaspoon salt and course-ground pepper ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, preferably organic, plus more for drizzling 3 ounces (approx. 5 slices) bresaola, preferably grass-fed Several thin slices or shards of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 3 tablespoons rinsed capers ½ cup picholine olives, pitted Small bunch arugula leaves Sea salt, to taste Peel asparagus and blanch in a large quantity of boiling water. To make vinaigrette, combine mustard, lemon juice, and salt and pepper in a blender jar. While motor is running, slowly add olive oil. Blend until well emulsified. Arrange slices of folded bresaola on a plate. Drizzle with lemon juice and olive oil. In a bowl, toss the blanched asparagus with some of the vinaigrette until well-coated. Arrange asparagus on top of the bresaola and top with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Sprinkle with capers and olives. Use the same bowl to toss the arugula with vinaigrette. Arrange arugula on top of other ingredients. Sprinkle with some sea salt.
Getting the Details Each year, Weland and members of his kitchen staff visit farms where meat and produce served at Poste are procured. “We try to visit as many places as we can,” he says. “We went out to visit Joel Salatin at Polyface Farms last spring and it was very inspiring. It’s so important for the young cooks to see where the food comes from.”
Some of the Capital foodshed growers Poste works with are Next Step Produce, Tuscarora Organic Growers Co-op, Path Valley Co-op, Blue Moon Farm, The Farm at Sunnyside, Northern Neck Fresh Fruits and Vegetables (previously known as Weaving Run Mushrooms), and Mike Pappas’s Eco Farms. And Weland’s appreciation for the farmers who come to the Penn Quarter FreshFarm Market is so great that in the fall of 2009, he cooked and served a gratis multicourse Thanksgivingstyle dinner for them and the market’s staff. Once a month, Weland and chef Haidar Karoum of Proof (which is just around the corner from Poste) each get half of a Randall Lineback rose veal calf, a rare heirloom breed raised at Chapel Hill Farm in Berryville, Virginia. They alternate getting the choice innards. Weland calls it “baby beef” on his menu to distinguish it from milk-fed veal.
Poste is bringing that farm focus into its decor, too. A threephase renovation of Poste will be completed in early July. Meanwhile, there’s fresh taupe paint on the walls, a refinished floor, and a new granite bar. A wall display of garden tools and photos, as well as new wooden tabletops that will replace traditional white linen cloths, will complete the sophisticated “urban garden” environment. No word yet on whether that magic mirror will be hanging on one of the freshly painted walls. Zora Margolis has lived in Washington, D.C., since 1996. She is a frequent contributor to Flavor and co-hosts the farmers market forum on www.donrockwell.com, D.C.’s popular food lovers’ discussion site.
Poste Modern Brasserie 555 8th Street, NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 783-6060 www.postebrasserie.com Find a recipe for Heirloom Tomato Salad from Poste’s Rob Weland at flavormags.com.
ENHANCED
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rebel with a cause
After a Hard Winter Joel Salatin
T
he winter of 2009–2010 will go down in our mid-Atlantic record books as one to remember. Fender benders, shoveling, and bone-chilling cold. Here in the Shenandoah Valley, we had eight weeks of snow cover. What a treat to not have to go to Aspen this winter. The people who study sunspot activity say this is the harbinger of the next five winters. Look out.
Stranded trucks on interstates, empty supermarket shelves—these events illustrated the stark modern reality that at any one time, only three days’ supply of food exists in a locality. That seems fragile to me. Looking back from our spring vantage point, I think it behooves us to appreciate preparing, preserving, and stockpiling food as a wise activity. On our farm, as the inches of snow began to build, we had a deep sense of security and satisfaction. Here’s why. The freezers were full of venison, beef, pork, chicken, turkey, and rabbit, all laid up from a bountiful 2009 production season.
Even if the electricity had gone off, the cold would have kept things from defrosting fast—a week at least. Probably two. The woodpile, mounded up, offered plenty of thermal energy during the blizzard. In the basement, hundreds of canning jars glistened, ready for use: sauerkraut, applesauce, pickles, green beans, yellow squash, beets, peaches, tomatoes, tomato juice, grape juice—a veritable cornucopia of abundance. In the root cellar, boxes of sweet potatoes, winter squash, and white potatoes lay ready for hearty winter feasts. Honey harvested late in the season offered sweetness. Maple syrup boiled the previous spring ran low and eventually ran out just before a two-week warm snap in January, when the sap from our trees flowed freely again into buckets. Frozen strawberries gleaned from our neighbor’s abundant patch and blackberries picked painstakingly along the road added fruity zest to shortcake. Our hands butchered, juiced, diced, sliced, pitted, and did all the other necessary steps to fill the larder for just such a time as this blizzard. And now, in the shock of a hard winter— payday. Emotional payday. Nutritional payday. Economic payday. Every living thing prepares for winter. The spider spins a porous cocoon around a zillion carefully laid eggs. The bear and groundhog gorge and then sleep. (Sounds like a good plan to me.) Deer put on back fat, like a savings account, to be withdrawn as extra energy if the going gets tough. Squirrels scamper around, burying walnuts and hickory nuts all during October and September and moving from airy summer nests to cozy tree hollows. Following nature’s example, farmers spend most of the season putting up provisions for winter—grain, hay, sawdust for bedding. This is natural and normal.
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molly mcdonald peterson
This paralyzing winter should have taught us to take advantage of our local bounty and lay up for the day our food systems grind to a halt.
Who would not go through this ritual? Who would not stockpile for environmental or economic shocks? Only people completely disconnected from their ecological umbilical. It really is a narrow cord. For all our sophisticated computers, cars, and cell phones, we humans haven’t figured out how to survive without food and water. Biologically we’re no different from those Native Americans who romped these forests and fields, hanging venison and buffalo in their smoky habitations to dry and stockpile for a hard winter. Only proud, arrogant, unthinking people assume that the supermarket will always be there, that the car will always get through. Perhaps if many more people realize our vulnerabilities to shocks and stockpile local food against the next hard winter, this season will have taught them a valuable lesson. The food our family enjoyed this hard winter did not come with extensive ingredient lists. If left on a table, it would rot—which also means it will digest properly. It was just like the food people ate before 1900. It was the stuff our great-grandparents ate in hard winters. Indeed, appreciating that we’re all still completely dependent on this little orb floating through space is both humbling and challenging. The memory of this past winter should drive us all to the kitchen this coming harvest season. It should drive us all to the food treasures in our communities, where we patronize
For all our sophisticated computers, cars, and cell phones, we humans haven’t figured out how to survive without food and water. seasonal abundance and enjoy its security during a hard winter. The ultimate food security is growing in the fields and pastures in our neighborhood and the stockpile lying, precious, in our pantries, root cellars, and freezers. If we all devoted ourselves to this natural, heritage-based mindset, a hard winter would drive us to gratitude, neighborliness, and deep satisfaction. That is the blessing of community. Internationally acclaimed conference speaker and author Joel Salatin and his family operate Polyface Farms in Augusta County near Staunton, Virginia, producing and direct marketing “salad bar” beef, “pigaerator” pork, and pastured poultry. He is now also co-owner, with Joe Cloud, of T&E Meats in Harrisonburg.
S A U NO I H C ITALIAN TABLE
aB
of
Seasonal menu using products from local and sustainable farms. Featuring Polyface, BackField Farms & Planet Earth Diversified. Creative, contemporary cuisine with service that is polished, knowledgeable, and friendly. n
412 South Main Street Harrisonburg, Virginia 22801 (540) 434-4464 www.joshuawilton.com
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Mas Grace Reynolds Photos by Laura Merricks
Tomas Rahal is as passionately dedicated to his neighbors and his local producers as his patrons are to his tapas bar.
T
omas Rahal opened Mas with no pretenses—he wanted it to be a tapas bar that the neighborhood could claim as its own. He wanted to serve his tasty Spanishinspired morsels on paper napkins with toothpicks and let the customers throw the trash on the floor, much as one might do in thousands of tapas bars across Spain. In his tenure in Charlottesville’s Belmont neighborhood, he’s amazed even himself. Along with great reviews and a loyal customer base has come fine china and an upscale vibe that respects and reflects the quality of the dishes he serves. But the neighborhood conviviality remains, apparent to every visitor. “We want to see people here more than once a week,” Rahal says invitingly. “You can sit here and have a tapa of bread and a glass of Rioja, and that’s fine. Or you and your friends can sit and have a big meal and seven bottles of Cava, and that’s great, too.”
Surviving and Thriving in the Community Just a few blocks from Charlottesville’s popular pedestrian mall, Belmont—long ago a farm and more recently a working-class neighborhood home to families for many generations—has
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undergone a renaissance in the last decade and now hosts an eclectic blend of restaurants, small businesses, and residents new and old. Rahal recognizes that the neighborhood spirit is key to his success. “Rather than encroaching on and disenfranchising the neighbors, we try to grow in a way that makes sense for us and the neighbors.” Maintaining a lively dining experience has required a conscientious balance of adding to the neighborhood ambience while keeping the privacy and needs of residents in mind. For example, Mas offered a Sunday brunch alongside its Monday through Saturday dinner service for a few years, but it became clear to Rahal on many levels that it was not sustainable: The neighbors were never getting a break, and neither was his staff. Brunch was discontinued, and everyone gets a break on Sundays. Mas’s reputation now attracts diners from beyond the city limits, but its web site makes it clear that patrons are expected to treat the neighborhood with the respect they would have for their own. Keeping strong ties with his neighbors has paid off for Rahal in many ways: Community gardeners bring him treats from their gardens on a regular basis—from exotic herbs
flavor café
“It’s been a great ride and it’s taught us how to be something of consequence, more than just to “every kind of tomato you can imagine.” Another testament to Mas’s success in maintaining a convivial and neighborly environment is its very low staff-turnover rate. In a business notorious for high rates of employee turnover, most of Rahal’s employees have been with him for many years, several since his opening in 2002.
Slow, Sustainable Growth Sustainability has pervaded Rahal’s approach from the start. After working in the kitchens of many restaurants, it was apparent to him that everyone was getting the same ingredients from the same large-scale operations, few of which were local. He wanted to do things differently in his own establishment, so he began cultivating relationships with local farms and foragers. Rahal’s daily handwritten menu is largely influenced by what is available to him seasonally through his local sources, including Manakintowne Specialty Growers, Double H Farm, Roundabout Farm, Planet Earth Diversified, Caromont Farm, and Green Fence Farm. “We also have some very intrepid foragers for mushrooms, ramps, and fiddleheads,” he adds. “The abundance of the Shenandoah Valley is astonishing.” The Joy of Tapas Eating tapas can be a social experience in itself. Diners order small portions of several dishes, usually sharing them with the rest of their party, and are free to order more as the evening
a trend. That’s all I’ve ever wanted to be— something of consequence.” —chef Tomas Rahal progresses. Tapas at Mas range in price and size, and since a tapa may only consist of a few delectable bites, it’s important that each bite is memorable: Dátiles con tocino (fat, juicy, Medjool dates roasted inside applewood-smoked bacon) provide a combination of flavors not easily forgotten, and jamón paleta ibérico (tender, acorn-fed Spanish ham sliced thin and served with bread and aged Manchego cheese) is mouthwatering. Add to this experience a broad selection of Spanish wines that meet Rahal’s exacting standards, and one begins to see why the neighbors are happy to have him around. “It takes a few times to get the hang of tapas if you’ve not experienced them before,” Rahal notes. “I try to keep a product mix that is both evocative of Spain—such as fresh seafood, local livestock, poultry, eggs, and dairy—and exact and traditional— like our hand-crafted cheeses, wines, olives, embutidos, oils, and spices. The idea is not to be static or ‘authentic’ but rather to be fluid and ever-adaptive, like farmers or vineros have to be.” Mas’s open plan brings diners at the bar within a few feet of the people cooking their meal or preparing their drinks. This transparency was intentional: Rahal feels it’s important to be
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flavor café Cocochas de Halibut with Wild Mushrooms, Farro, Capers & Olives I also make this with Eastern Rockfish (Striped Bass), in which case I reserve the skin, bones, and head for stock when I fillet the fish. If you do not have scraps to make the fish stock, use chicken stock instead. I pair this earthy, briny dish with the minerally, flinty whites of Rias Baixas, like Pazo De Señorans Albariño, or the citrus-driven Verdejos from Rueda, like the José Pariente. A frothy, full-bodied, dry Cava, like the Huguet Gran Reserva Brut Nature or Mont Marcal Cava Brut Reserva Rosado, or the Can Feixes Blanc Selecció from Penedès will also work beautifully. All of these wines are acidic palate cleaners with plenty of fruit on the nose, so you may wish to “mount” the sautéed veggies with a tablespoon of sweet unsalted butter at the end to make it a bit richer. —chef Tomas Rahal
For stock
Ingredients Fish scraps for stock (see note) ¼ cup chopped onion 1 sheet kombu seaweed Fresh thyme or lemon thyme A couple garlic cloves 1 cup farro Farro is also known as spelt. You can substitute barley or wheatberries. Grey sea salt Cracked black pepper 3 cups wild mushrooms I prefer what’s growing: morels, maitakes, porcinis, oysters. Extra virgin olive oil I like fruity oils like Arbequina or Hijo Blanco from Spain. Halibut cheeks ¼ cup diced tomatoes Reserve scraps for stock. 1 tablespoon chopped pitted green olives 1 tablespoon salt-packed capers, rinsed well several times to extract salt 1 tablespoon chopped fresh garlic Avoid anything in a jar or packed in oil. ¼ cup amontillado or dry white wine
For farro
To cold water, add fish bones and scraps, tomato scraps, onion, kombu, a sprig of thyme, and a couple garlic cloves. Bring to a gentle simmer, skimming foam continually, for about 2 hours. Allow to rest, and then ladle off top and pass through finest sieve. (We use a fine towel to capture albumen bits and whatnot.) Rinse farro in cold water until cloudiness is diminished. In a pressure cooker (or heavy-bottomed saucepan), add farro and fill with fish stock until just covered. Add a sprig of thyme, 1 teaspoon grey salt, and a twist of pepper. Cover and cook under pressure. When pot begins strongly venting steam, turn heat to low and cook for 10 minutes. Be sure the pressure cooker’s pop-up tab is down before opening lid. (If you’re using a heavybottomed saucepan, bring to a low boil, reduce to low, cover, and cook until all liquid is absorbed.)
For fish and glace Clean mushrooms. Remove stems and bits, saving for a glace. Keep chilled till ready to cook fish. Preheat oven to 400 F. Heat a steel or cast-iron pan to medium-high. Salt and pepper both sides of cheeks and place in lightly oiled pan. Allow to brown well on first side. Turn over and place in oven for just 3 minutes. Take pan out and remove cheeks from pan. Return pan to heat and add mushrooms, tomatoes, olives, capers, and chopped garlic. Sautée until lightly browned but not sticking. Deglaze pan with fish stock and amontillado, cooking until reduced and most liquid absorbed. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.
Serving Place farro in center of the plate. Top with halibut cheeks and pour remaining glace over top.
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up front and open with his staff and his clientele. Also of the utmost importance is eliminating the wasteful and environmentally unsound practices in much of the food-service industry. Composting food scraps, cultivating a kitchen garden, recycling, and reducing energy usage lightens the load headed for the landfill and brings down utility bills. Rahal also subsidizes bikes for his staff and encourages customers to come by bicycle or on foot to cut down on pollution and neighborhood congestion. “I don’t know if it’s a romantic idea, or whether it’s old-fashioned,” he explains, “but if this enterprise can be used as a force of good rather than evil, that’s what I want.”
Something of Consequence Mas consistently tops the best-of-Charlottesville lists. Washington Post food writer Jane Black says Mas “is without a doubt my favorite Charlottesville restaurant.” And the restaurant is full almost every night. Yet Rahal plans to continue practicing his philosophy of slow growth that is sustainable for the community, his staff, and the environment, rejecting any plans for franchising or licensing his concept. “If you’re going to have ownership of something, you want to make sure it’s really yours.” Starting a business in a small community is about more than just personal success at Mas. For Rahal and his staff, it’s about creating something that will last and that returns to the community supporting it. Of his last seven years in business, Rahal surmises, “It’s been a great ride and it’s taught us how to be something of consequence, more than just a trend. That’s all I’ve ever wanted to be—something of consequence.”
418 W. Main Street Charlottesville, VA Monday - Friday 7 - 6 Saturday 7 - 5 albemarlebakingco.com 434-293-6456
Grace Reynolds is a Virginian with two decades of experience in the local food and wine industry. She also teaches at several Virginia universities and community colleges.
Mas 501 Monticello Rd., Charlottesville, VA (434) 979-0990 www.mastapas.com
ENHANCED
Find Tomas Rahal’s recipe for Atún con Granada (shown at left) as well as photos from the waitstaff skills challenge (seen at right) at flavormags.com.
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One of Us? Marian Burros
Kathleen Merrigan is working hard to change federal agriculture policy from inside the USDA.
U
ntil last spring, phrases like “sustainable agriculture,” “local food,” and “mobile slaughterhouses” were only whispered in the halls of the Department of Agriculture, the agency where industrial agriculture and biotechnology reigned supreme. Then Kathleen Merrigan—a 50-year-old assistant professor at Tufts University who had been teaching agricultural policy for the previous eight years—became the deputy secretary.
rack, said modern agriculture is coming under attack and what he heard at the agency’s annual outlook conference in February “is radically different from what has taken place in the first 36 years of my career.” To Merrigan, he said, “This is not the USDA that people in the Midwest are familiar with.” Unsaid was that Burrack didn’t like what he was hearing— perhaps because he’s worried that the subsidies his farm has been receiving from USDA, $1.1 million since 1995, might stop. Merrigan’s response to him No Warm Welcome is the one she gives to all sides: Also a veteran politician and “Well, you know, the USDA is a policy wonk, Merrigan began an big place and there’s room in the arduous task: to make the agency tent for everyone.” —USDA Deputy Secretary Kathleen Merrigan rethink its role. By September, A New Agenda Merrigan (second in command What Merrigan is doing—with to Agriculture Secretary Tom relatively small amounts of money from the 2008 farm bill, Vilsack) introduced an initiative to rebuild the once-thriving much smaller than the budget for industrial agriculture and local and regional food systems that can produce ecologically biotechnology—is making the agency pay attention to both the and socially responsible food, an idea to which the agency had little guy and the midsize farmer. She has found that the departhardly given the time of day. ment is filled with people who want to work on projects to help Merrigan named it “Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food.” them. “There are people coming out of their doors from the The program, which is aimed at local farmers and sustainable bowels of the bureaucracy saying, ‘Thank you. I’ve been wantagriculture, farmers markets, and value-added-products, suding to work on this for years. I’ve never had this kind of work denly has agribusiness worried. sanctioned.’ ” The chairman of the Iowa Corn Production Board, Tim Bur-
“There are people saying,
‘Thank you. I’ve been wanting to
work on this for years. I’ve never had this kind of work sanctioned.’ ”
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molly mcdonald peterson
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When she got to the agency last spring, none of the money set aside in the 2009 budget for local food had been used. She recounted her exchanges with others at USDA: “ ‘How much money has gone into local food?’ Answer: ‘None yet.’ It takes a bureaucracy a long time to understand and embrace new imperatives unless you have someone pushing. So I came and I pushed. I asked, ‘What are you doing creatively to implement the law?’ ” And then she offered some more ideas. Merrigan imagines more mobile slaughterhouses to serve small farmers who have no access to processing their animals and more medium-sized farms that can supply seasonal produce to 2,000 CSA (community supported agriculture) members, each paying $500. She imagines finding ways to make it easier for farms to sell to schools and having an organic program in which organic standards are strictly enforced.
Merrigan has no illusions. So far she gives her performance a B. (“I was always a tough grader,” she said.) As she wrote in an August 2009 memo, “I suspect that many USDA programs are under-utilized by those seeking to build local and regional food systems. I would like to play the role of match-maker during this Administration. By this, I mean I will work to help USDA program administrators to understand how our programs may better serve your efforts to build local and regional food systems as well as highlight for you USDA programs that present great opportunity for the work that you do.” While her many supporters think she should have a lot more money to accomplish her goals, she thinks she can accomplish a lot with what she’s got. Asked if she is satisfied with her slice of the 2011 agriculture budget for which she is responsible, she said, “Yes.” Merrigan always knows when to elaborate and when to be politic.
Above: In a visit to Virginia State University in March 2010, Kathleen Merrigan discussed the agency’s support for small farms with (L-R) Extension Specialist Reza Rafie, Michael Clark of Planet Earth Diversified, VSU Associate Dean Franklin Jackson, and VSU President Eddie Moore Jr. Below: Last September, when launching “Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food,” Merrigan visited Georgia O’Neal and Zachariah Lester of Tree and Leaf Farm in Waterford, Virginia. 38
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above: leslie jenkins, meetthefarmer.tv. below: courtesy of usda
No Sellout Her talent for navigating Washington is the trait Dan Barber, visionary owner-chef of Blue Hill at Stone Barns outside New York City, admires most in her. “I think she is the smartest woman I know,” he said. “What’s so intriguing about her is her remarkable ability to be political and still have a strong set of values. Throughout her career, she has been able to further the principles of real sustainability without being a sellout. It takes a lot of political savvy to pull the right levers.” Merrigan has spent years learning the art of politics and knows everyone. She worked for Senator Patrick Leahy when he was chairman of the Senate Agriculture Committee. She was the power behind the federal organic standards, managing to get them passed without harmful amendments. Her last job in Washington was as the administrator of the Agriculture Marketing Service in the Clinton administration. When she came back to Washington after the 2008 election to lobby for a job in the Obama administration, it was not for anything as high level as deputy secretary. But many of her politically powerful friends lobbied for something much loftier. “I did not expect this job,” she said.
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More than 20 years ago, Merrigan helped draft the Organic Foods Production Act, which led to the establishment of the National Organic Program in 2002, administered by the USDA and known by its seal, shown at left.
he added, “All of this will be a drop in the bucket if the overall policy context doesn’t shift. To make a lasting impression, it has to be institutionalized.” Merrigan has no illusions. So far she gives her performance a B. (“I was always a tough grader,” she said.) She feels she will have accomplished what she set out to do at the end of four years “if organic agriculture is in a stronger place within this bureaucracy, if local and regional [food systems] are working well, if I can help small farm operations grow so they can supply more of their income, and if I can help family farmers survive.” “My aspirations are so great,” she said, “I won’t give myself an A-plus until ‘Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food’ is having a major impact.” Marian Burros was on staff at The New York Times for 27 years and still writes for them. She has lived in the Washington area since 1959, and at one time or other, she worked for The Washington Post and the late, lamented Washington Star and Washington Daily News. She was also a consumer reporter for D.C.’s WRC-TV. The author of 13 cookbooks, she has been writing about small farms and the pleasures of local food since the 1980s.
THoRNToN RiVeR GRiLLe & Sperryville Corner Store Gourmet restaurant and market specializing in local produce, meat, beer and wine.
Thornton River Grille www.thortonrivergrille.com 540.987.8790 Tues-Sat: lunch and dinner Sun: brunch and dinner
Sperryville Corner Store 540.987.8185 open daily 3710 Sperryville Pike Sperryville, VA
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molly mcdonald peterson
Fighting for the Underdog She’s making the most of it to help the little guy, the person she has always looked out for. “I was always the kid standing up for other kids,” she said. “My parents wanted to be very inclusive, not to be judgmental. My daily mantra with my kids: Be kind.” Her 12-hour days take her out of the house before her children are up. But her husband, a law school professor, makes it possible. “I don’t have to make difficult choices because he’s a great father and really great cook, and he picks up the slack,” she said as she sat in her spacious high-ceilinged office around the corner from Secretary Vilsack’s. Ferd Hoefner, policy director of the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition, said Merrigan is off to a good start. But,
Park Hyatt Washington, June 17 - 20, 2010 The Masters of Food & Wine events will offer seasonal American cuisine celebrating the bounty of the United States. This four-day festival will focus on the commitment to working with local farmers and to supporting sustainable agriculture. Participants will enjoy wine sampling, tea tastings, intimate dining experiences, guest speakers and a visit to Virginia’s Chapel Hill Farm.
Participating chefs include: Brian McBride, E xec u t i v e C h e f, B lu e D u c k Ta v e r n , Wa s h i n g to n , DC
Peter Davis, E x ec uti ve Chef, Hen r i etta ’s Ta bl e, Ca m br i d g e, MA
Michael Santoro, Chef de C u i s i n e , B lu e D u c k Ta v e r n , Wa s h i n g to n , DC
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Savor exceptional flavors and extraordinary wines from around the country .
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artisans & entrepreneurs
Out of the Woods Walter Nicholls Photos by Molly McDonald Peterson
An alternative Virginia farmer brings a variety of specialty mushrooms to market while caring for the ecosystem. Just behind a sizable 145-year-old white clapboard farmhouse on a peaceful lane in Cismont, Virginia, there are paths through a maze-like garden of perennials, herbs, and hybrid willows that lead to a multifaceted world of mushroom cultivation, both indoors and out. What looks like a funky outbuilding turns out to be a sterile laboratory for producing vigorous spawn. Steps away along ivy-bordered paths in the open forest are 500 mostly chestnut and white oak logs on end, ready to “flush” with seven species of shiitake and oyster mushrooms when temperatures are right. This is Sharondale Farm, Mark Jones’s expanding experiment in mushroom agriculture and the development of methods for introducing fungi into gardens alongside fruit trees, vegetables, flowers, and fiber plants. Pound by pound, those shiitakes and six other varieties, such as spiny lion’s mane, make their way to highend restaurants 12 miles away in Charlottesville. But the interests Above left: This early-season shiitake in the “donko” or “flower” form, a result of growing slowly in cool weather with fluctuating humidity, is highly prized in Asian cuisine. Above right: Mark Jones recently added this strain of blue oyster mushrooms and is experimentally growing them on organic grain.
of Jones, a self-proclaimed “science geek,” also include using fungi in farm waste management strategies and joining mushrooms with vegetable production for a profitable crop and for building healthy soil. Relational Gardens On a recent March morning in his garden, Jones talked about his farming goals, mushroom workshops, and love of the land while boiling chopped wheat straw in a 55-gallon kettle. After draining a batch in a battered feed trough, he inoculated the straw with blue oyster mushroom spawn mixed with rye grain and stuffed the works into tall, clear plastic bags. Holes poked in the sides will allow the mushrooms to later emerge. “A garden is not just vegetables and perennials. It’s all kinds of energies working together. And when you add species such as mushrooms, you build a guild of functional relationships from one plant to another,” says the Virginia native who has had a lifelong fascination with this relatively fast-growing crop. “In addition to being delicious, fungi are integral to the ecosystem,
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Fresh - Local - Seasonal
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working together.” —mushroom farmer Mark Jones and composting is the simplest way for you to use mushrooms on your property. They break down the waste carbon sources and create soil.” With one bag tossed over each shoulder, he heads for his new 1,440-square-foot, climate-controlled grow house. Over a three-week period, each bag will fruit with blue oysters for seven to ten days. With degrees in both liberal arts and science, Jones says it was a college mycology class that sparked his enthusiasm for fungi. After finishing grad school at Louisiana State University in Baton Rouge, he moved to Oregon, where his trade was carpentry and his passion the development of useful landscapes. He moved back to his family’s Virginia homestead in the summer of 2004. Three years later, he sold his first commercial mushroom crop at the producer-only Charlottesville City Market. Mushrooms 101 At Sharondale Farm, more than a dozen types of mushrooms are currently in cultivation—another 12 species are in the experimental stage—each growing on straw, compost, wood chips, or logs. The grains and cereal bran Jones uses in cultivation are organic, and the methods of cultivation are in accord with standards for organic production. In spring and fall, the best time for cultivation, Jones conducts two- to three-hour mushroom workshops that cover plant biology, ecology in the garden, and hands-on cultivation skills. “For most students, the interest is growing shiitakes on logs. But I
Simply Prepared Mushrooms These wonderful glazed mushrooms—from executive chef Dean Maupin at the Clifton Inn, near Charlottesville—work well with risotto, buttered pasta, or toasted baguette.
2 cups each of three different varieties of cleaned and trimmed mushrooms, such as oyster, black trumpet, hen-of-the-woods, morel, chanterelle, shiitake, or almond portobello 1½ sticks (6 ounces) butter 2 small shallots, minced 3 cups good-quality chicken stock Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste ¼ cup chopped chives Parmigiano-Reggiano for grating Heat a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add butter and allow to melt. Add minced shallots and cook for 1 minute. Add mushrooms and gently toss with butter. Add stock and a pinch of salt and pepper. Turn heat to medium-high and allow stock to reduce by 75 percent, being sure to gently stir often. When mushrooms are gently glazed with buttery chicken broth, remove pan from heat. Sprinkle chives over mushrooms and finish with generous amount of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. 44
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The process starts in a petri plate. The fungus is transferred from the petri plate to sterilized organic rye grain and then to other growing media such as sawdust, straw, or compost.
prefer to start people out on oyster mushrooms, also on logs. There’s less management involved,” he says. Jones also sells mushroom spawn and tools of the trade for log inoculation on his web site. Farm tours are available by appointment. The Growing Season When it comes to taste, Jones’s favorite is the almond portobello, which he calls “extraordinary for its nutty flavor.” His shiitake varieties have varying texture and flavor profiles. Those spiny lion’s manes, he says, “shred like crab meat and have a subtle flavor that’s easily enhanced with white wine and herbs.” Restaurants, such as L’Etoile and The Local in Charlottesville, appreciate that Jones is right down the road. “He’s so passionate about mushrooms. And what’s really nice about his products is that they are so fresh, full of life, and moist,” says Dean Maupin, executive chef of the nearby award-winning Clifton Inn. “Mark turned me on to the lion’s mane,” Maupin adds. For some lucky community supported agriculture (CSA) members in the area, beautiful mushrooms from Cismont are included in every share. “Mark’s mushrooms are not what you see every day in stores. People are excited about having diverse products in their share,” says Kathryn Bertoni, co-owner of Appalachia Star Farm in Roseland. With his new grow house up and running, Jones hopes to increase production in the coming year “by an order of magnitude and then some. This means thousands of pounds of mushrooms, but I can’t give exact numbers,” he says. Though a teacher, Jones is still a student of mycology, ever on the lookout for strains of edible wild mushrooms, always experimenting with new methods. And ready to sauté the results. Walter Nicholls is a former staff reporter for the Washington Post. A native Washingtonian, he has written about farms, food markets, and restaurants for 21 years. He resides both in the Georgetown section of Washington and on an historic homestead in Rappahannock County, Virginia. Find him at walternicholls.com.
Sharondale Farm Cismont, VA (434) 296-3301 sharondalefarm.com Mark Jones teaches classes at Richmond’s J. Sargeant Reynolds Community College, and he also conducts mushroom-growing workshops in spring and fall—the best times for cultivation. Here are some upcoming workshops. Information can be found online.
Growing Mushrooms at Home
An introduction to cultivating gourmet and medicinal mushrooms
April 3 at Sharondale Farm, Cismont
Got Mushroom?
Growing gourmet and medicinal mushrooms in urban and small spaces
April 17 at New Community Project, Harrisonburg
Traditional Spanish Food Open Monday - Saturday
5:30pm-2:00am www.mastapas.com 434-979-0990 501 Monticello Road Charlottesville, VA
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Growing Pains Natalie Mesnard
Photos by Molly McDonald Peterson
As they gain national distribution, can these local businesses navigate the complex world of food without sacrificing the ideals that characterized their early days?
F
ine wine. Charcuterie. Parisian macarons. Food businesses everywhere begin as culinary passions. An enterprising individual or family makes the leap, grabs a business license, and begins the hard work of creating a high-quality food product while running a compassionate business. Ideals close at hand, these foodies, who are dedicated to sustainable practices and uncompromised ingredients, must walk a line between conscientiousness and profitability.
That transformation from small to large is a telling change for any company. Morals are either tossed aside or cemented in place
as the organization accumulates money, recognition, and power. Under constant pressure to compromise, a few companies here in the Capital foodshed—Edwards Ham of Surry, Virginia, Honest Tea of Bethesda, Maryland, and Route 11 Potato Chips of Mount Jackson, Virginia—have made the transition from local to national. Have these business owners succeeded in staying true to their original dreams as they navigate the complicated food industry?
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Edwards Ham Surry, Virginia
A
gradual rise to prominence brought some tough choices for the owners of Edwards Ham, which has been producing and selling pork products for 84 years. The company, which makes ham, bacon, and sausage, has gained major recognition in the last few years, debuting on the national restaurant scene with a special ham that is featured on the menus of restaurants such as New York City’s trendy Momofuku. That ham is the now-famous 18-month dry-cured Surryano—a nod to the similar paper-thin, smoky serrano ham and a shout-out to the county where Edwards is based. Its success among restaurants and gourmet food shops can be attributed to the ideals that went into its creation. “We’re trying to produce this ham like they would have back in the 1700s and 1800s,” says Sam Edwards, the third-generation director of this longrunning family affair.
“We’re trying to produce this ham like they
Sam Edwards sells his dry-cured Surryano ham to restaurants far and near—like the Boat House in Richmond, shown here.
would have back in the 1700s and 1800s.” —Sam Edwards, president of Edwards Ham
To bring that traditional ham to customers outside the company’s 75-mile delivery radius, Edwards eventually had to agree to use distributors, who truck food all over the U.S. “I think it’s important to know your customers,” says Edwards, noting that companies who use distributors lose the face time that comes with direct sales. “It’s been one of the toughest transitions.” Another uncomfortable reality is the pressure of market demand for cheaper products. In addition to the dry-cured Surryano, the company has started making a more standard ham that takes only a week to cure and can be sold at a reasonable price point—a “city” ham. “It’s like the difference between Kraft American cheese and a nice bleu cheese or a Stilton,” says Edwards, comparing this new product to the Surryano. “But there are folks that like Kraft.”
The increase in scale hasn’t been all bad. It enabled Edwards Ham to attract the attention of Patrick Martins, founder of Slow Food USA and the president of Heritage Foods USA, an organization that advocates for the preservation of heritage livestock breeds. Martins and Edwards will soon collaborate in an effort to convince Virginia farmers to raise heritage hog breeds and use more sustainable and humane farming practices. Edwards hopes to find meat that is truer in flavor and quality to the original pork used in his grandfather’s time. He is also using the newfound clout that comes with a larger company to nudge his industry in a greener direction.
Honest Tea Bethesda, Maryland
H
onest Tea also puts its brand recognition and financial power toward a good cause. Though it’s now quite large (100 employees and counting, compared to Edwards Ham’s 35), the company started in 1998 with co-founders Seth Goldman and Barry Nalebuff making tea blends in Goldman’s www.flavormags.com
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kitchen. The two men used business savvy to land a deal with Whole Foods Market and started right out with a contract for 15,000 bottles of tea featuring organic and mildly sweetened blends. They were already netting $250,000 at the end of their first year. What did they do with all that money? By creating a line of teas that are USDA Certified Organic—some teas are also fair-trade certified—they used it to support farmers who use earth-friendly practices and to help them maintain quality standards of living. Samme Menke, a public relations associate for the company, claims, “We have a good impact on the communities we’re sourcing from.” Menke tells the story of one Honest Tea
Honest Tea was already netting $250,000 at the end of its first year. supplier—a family-owned organic farm in Argentina—that has inspired other area farmers to adopt similar crops and more sustainable practices. It was in the jump from big to really big that Honest Tea had to make a choice. Two years ago, right around Honest Tea’s 10th anniversary, Coca-Cola bought a 40 percent share in the company. This meant taking on the mantle of a company whose
As Honest Tea grows, founder and “TeaEO” Seth Goldman can increase his orders for organic and fair-trade ingredients.
beverages are not known for being particularly healthful or environmentally friendly. Organic companies often join larger food companies (for example, familiar organic brands Cascadian Farm and Muir Glen are part of General Mills), leaving consumers to wonder whether environmental standards were abandoned in the wake of the big purchase. Honest Tea claims it has not compromised. “It’s been two years since we did the deal, and we are still as engaged in our mission as ever,” says president and “TeaEO” Goldman. And Menke comments, “The Coke name brings us to the table.” Using that name has enabled the company to drastically expand distribution of organic teas, contributing to the momentum of the organic movement. Honest Tea has also been able to take part in the development of Bethesda Green, a local sustainability initiative that endeavors to strengthen the local economy and grow healthier communities by doing things like installing recycling bins and supporting new green companies. “We continually seek more environmentally conscious options,” says Goldman.
Route 11 Mount Jackson, Virginia
S
arah Cohen, founder of Route 11 Potato Chips, remarks that being compared with companies like Edwards Ham and Honest Tea puts her “in good company.” Route 11 is perhaps the slowest-growing of the three, but over time it has felt the same growing pains and reaped a similar set of rewards, albeit on a smaller scale. Route 11 was started in 1992 by Cohen’s dad, who dreamed of manufacturing and selling an all-organic potato chip. Though a 100 percent organic line turned out to be impossible, conventional chips were gradually accompanied by seasonal products sourced from local organic farmers. Route 11 stayed happily small for 10 years, operating out of the old feed store on Route 11 in Middleton, Virginia, where it started. “We were able 48
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to build a brand and people liked us,” Cohen says. Capacity was limited, and they actually had to turn down potential customers. When Cohen had finally resigned herself to expansion, the company moved to a larger facility 30 miles away. That move was key to making Route 11 a bigger and more eco-friendly company. “We’re able to do things that we weren’t able to do before because we didn’t have the space,” Cohen says. “We’re trying to be a waste-free facility.” They now have the space to recycle cardboard and plastic, and they’ve arranged to have a nearby farmer come
President Sarah Cohen and vice president Michael Connelly find that Route 11’s growth has allowed the company to be more green.
The move to a larger facility was key to making Route 11 a bigger and more eco-friendly company. by every night to pick up potato peels and chip rejects to recycle on the farm as feed or compost. Staff, too, have a newfound appreciation for recycling in a facility set up to make it easy and convenient. “They’re willing to embrace it now,” says Cohen. Route 11 may not have the resources to crusade for large-scale changes in the food system, but as it accumulates momentum, the company encourages good choices through personal relationships. “We have a sweet-potato farmer who is certified organic on the Eastern Shore,” she says. “We’ve been buying his sweet potatoes for years.” Those potatoes go into a line of lightly salted sweetpotato chips, one of several varieties that feature local ingredients. With products like these, Route 11 will continue to bring a “taste of place” to gourmet food shops across the country. Cohen hopes to inch in greener directions while maintaining day-to-day relationships with staff and farmers. “I’m passionate right now, trying to make this work,” she says. “I’m being forced to refine my business skills even more than I ever thought.”
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Ahead of the Game For all three of these companies, an important business skill has been the ability to “keep it honest,” as Honest Tea puts it. Activist companies using that skill will be ahead of the game as Americans demand green-collar jobs and higher humanitarian, ecological, and material quality standards. Keep an eye on companies like these as they continue to grow. No company is perfect. However, these three have met with success—not just in net profit, but in maintaining the ideals they started with. Natalie Mesnard farms, cooks, and writes in Richmond. She works for Amy’s Garden, an organic farm, and Savor Café, a small restaurant that sources ingredients locally, and strives to learn as much as possible about every aspect of food.
Edwards Ham www.edwardsvaham.com Honest Tea www.honesttea.com Route 11 www.rt11.com
Satisfy Your Curiosity in Clarke County... W here Local Food, Art, Histor y & Conser vation Create Community
HISTORY? ART? CULTURE?
WE’VE GOT IT!
The CLARKE COUNTY HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION
invites you to share our treasures.
Burwell-Morgan Mill
Weekends, May-November
Art at the Mill
April 25—May 9
”Our Land Is Our Legacy”
new multi-media museum exhibit
HarvFest, local FOOD & FARMING festival September 19— www.harvfest.org
www.clarkehistory.org
Mill: 15 Tannery Lane, Millwood Museum: 32 E. Main Street, Berryville
540.955.2600
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800.638.1702
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tales from the field
Down in the Valley When I moved over the mountain and into the Shenandoah Valley, I found myself in the middle of a vibrant local food community committed to re-localizing its city.
molly mcdonald peterson
Michael Clune
G
iven my Peter Pan complex and a vivid imagination, I have a tendency to ignore the stressors typically associated with a major life change. A big believer in the clichés that “everything happens for a reason” and that “fate is my best friend,” I decided to treat my recent departure from the Farm at Sunnyside as just another adventure in my quest to figure out what I’m supposed to be when I grow up. So, packing my meager belongings in an extra-large trash bag, I mimicked the bear in the traditional children’s song and went over the mountain to see what I could see.
During my early explorations, I was elated to observe an aggressive and growing local food movement. As one friend put it, “The area isn’t just getting on the wagon of local foods. They’ve been living it.” This is thanks in part to the many Mennonites who continue to live and farm sustainably throughout the Shenandoah Valley area. In speaking with local farmers and value-added producers, I heard about enthusiastic community involvement and cooperation. A good example of this is the Harrisonburg Farmers Market, a producer-only, year-round market where customers buy vegeta52
• april/may 2010
bles, meats, breads, and even local artwork. Though the market officially started in the late 1970s, I was told by a local resident that farmers used to bring crops into Harrisonburg as early as the 1940s. With generous private, community, and city donations, the Turner Pavilion was constructed for the farmers market in October 2008. The beautiful structure covers both vendors and customers from inclement weather and provides each vendor space with an electrical power point. Having wrestled with tents, hurricane-force winds, and torrential downpours in my own time at farmers markets, I was in absolute awe (and just a little jealous) of the pavilion. According to Josie Showalter, the dynamic market manager, the market’s strength and popularity continues to grow, thanks to farmers’ quality products and a very loyal customer base. Much to the dismay of my aging cardiac system, I have become addicted to the raw milk cheeses and butter created by Fred and Christie Huger of Mountain View Farm. (If I have to die of something, it might as well be copious
ernie didot
My expedition was neither arduous nor lengthy, for friends convinced me to give Harrisonburg, Virginia, a shot. Liking the academic feel of the area, home to both James Madison University and Eastern Mennonite University, I decided that exploring the lower elevations of the Shenandoah Valley area could be both interesting and educational. The region, which runs roughly from Winchester to Roanoke, was explored by the French in 1632. Bordered by the Blue Ridge Mountains to the east and the Ridge-and-Valley Appalachians to the west, this productive agricultural area was farmed by the late 1720s by Quakers and Mennonites migrating from Pennsylvania and continued to attract settlers of all backgrounds to its fertile soils. Harrisonburg developed into a center of commercial agriculture, from wheat and hay production to industrial poultry farms. Even now, the downtown area is in the shadow of huge grain elevators owned by agribusiness giants.
amounts of dairy products.) The demand for local food is strong enough that in April, the market will resume its twice-weekly schedule.
During my early explorations, I was elated to observe an aggressive and growing local food movement. A recent addition to Harrisonburg’s local food movement is the Friendly City Food Co-op, an interesting example of the community’s support of local agriculture. Modeling the project on a store once run by the Little Grill Collective (a worker-owned restaurant), the cooperative plans to open a store with an inventory of locally produced foods as well as natural and free-trade products not available in the area. The co-op started meetings in 2006 and currently has 775 member owners—just 225 shy of its 1,000-member goal. In addition, the group has raised a significant portion of the funds necessary to open in a 6,100-square-foot retail space leased in downtown Harrisonburg through grants and member loans. Such a venture
will benefit numerous member-owners, local producers, and the community. Member-owners give the co-op necessary capital. These monies are a vote in support of local agriculture, and they can be recouped through member-discounted purchases at the store. Local producers will not only have a venue to sell their products beyond the restricted hours of the farmers market, but also connect more regularly with customers in the community. The community at large will benefit from increased access to local foods, job creation, and the rehabilitation of a vacant building. Considering that downtown Harrisonburg is in the process of a facelift and the area has no outlet for fresh, local foods, the store will be a welcome addition. I attended the co-op’s annual Feb Fest and was surprised to see that despite the snow blanketing the downtown area and roads that were little more than ice rinks, an amazing number of participants turned out. People were enthusiastic and friendly (hence the name of the co-op?) and very motivated to make the store a reality. My initial fear of moving to a local food wasteland has been proven irrational. Agricultural gypsy Michael Clune is committed to narrowing the divide between local farmers and their customers.
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Historic Old Town
Culpeper,Virginia
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Fountain Hall B ed & Break f a st Culpeper, Virginia
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Be our fan on Facebook! 54
Corner of Main and Davis Streets Historic Downtown Culpeper, VA
• april/may 2010
in the food desert
A Home-Grown Curriculum Wendy W. Simmons
Photos by David Hirner
Just a spoonful of fresh produce helps the nutrition lesson go down.
M
any parents grow bored with bagged baby carrots and applesauce and find themselves trying to convince their children that other fruits and vegetables can be delicious, too. This can be especially challenging for parents in low-income communities, which often don’t have access to fresh produce. In addition, foods with poor nutrition are advertised heavily, diluting messages about the benefits of eating lots of fruits and veggies. So one group of educators at the University of Maryland Extension (UME) is empowering schools to teach children healthy eating habits. Food Supplement Nutrition Education (FSNE) is a federally funded program that contracts with state agencies, in this case UME, to provide FSNE
nutrition education to those eligible for food stamps. Over the past two years, Lisa Lachenmayr, acting director of Maryland’s FSNE program, and her colleagues at UME have written an elementary school curriculum called Growing Healthy Habits, which offers nutrition education in the context of gardening. Chrissa Carlson and Vinnie Bevivino, FSNE educators teaching at schools near Baltimore and in Prince George County, respectively, developed some of the lesson plans “on the job,” so to speak. As the program evolved and expanded, Carlson took the lead in writing the curriculum, which she summarizes as “teaching students the link between where plants come from and how our bodies work.” Last year, several schools in Prince George County and Baltimore City piloted the program, now available to the public for free online. The Kids Ate Their Homework While gardening and nutrition education are certainly not new ideas in Maryland, existing curricula lacked a strong nutrition component and did not necessarily work with Maryland’s specific www.flavormags.com
55
MOUNT WELBY the perfect place to vacation this spring
Mount Welby is a luxurious vacation rental in the foot hills of the Shenandoah Mountains. Minutes from Little Washington and Middleburg, this historic house built in 1823 can easily accommodate 10-12 guests at a time. Relax in the Jacuzzi or snuggle up with a book next to one of the six fireplaces. Enjoy spectacular views in every direction on this 63 acre estate in the heart of Virginia Wine Country just 60 miles from Washington.
www.mountwelby.com 56
• april/may 2010
growing season. So the Growing Healthy Habits team knew that they needed to create an innovative program that would accomplish three goals: teach students about nutrition, work within the confines of the midAtlantic growing season, and meet state education standards. The lessons are designed to be used during the school year (September to June), although they can easily be reordered to follow the region’s growing season (March to October). Understanding that schools would be more likely to try a curriculum if it dovetailed with Maryland’s curriculum objectives, the team identified how each lesson addresses state standards in health, math, reading and language arts, science, and social studies. The nine four-lesson units have been tailored to meet Maryland’s curriculum objectives for first through fifth grade. Materials include a matrix explaining how each unit meets state standards in several content areas. For example, in the “What’s So Great About Gardening?” unit—the first unit for school-year programs (September) or the last for growing season programs (October)—third and fourth graders meet the language arts writing standard of “composing to persuade using significant reasons and relevant support” by writing an advertisement for fresh-fromthe-garden veggies. Getting Dirty Just-picked produce tastes better than what is trucked into most large grocery stores, and the program’s developers believe that kids who are introduced to a perfectly fresh tomato or head of broccoli will be more inclined to try veggies and enjoy them. Children are even more likely to eat vegetables they’ve grown themselves. Ideally, schools and other venues using the Growing Healthy Habits curriculum would have gardens on-site, allowing students to fully participate in the growing process. The curriculum even draws attention to physical activity in the garden with its Garden Fitness unit. Many schools, however, do not have the resources or the space for an on-campus garden. The UME team wanted all schools to be able to use the curriculum, so the flexible lesson plan can work without the gardening component. Educational objectives are achieved whether students are Educator Chrissa Carlson (top) helped write the Growing Healthy Habits curriculum. Carlson and collaborator Vinnie Bevivino further revised the curriculum after teaching it last year in local elementary schools.
Chrissa Carlson summarizes the program as
Oh please,
Oh Please, Oh Please...
“teaching students the link between where plants come from and how our bodies work.” growing their own vegetables or working with local produce from farmers markets instead. Firsthand Knowledge Langley-Park McCormick Elementary School in Prince George County piloted the curriculum last year. Patricia Martin, then a third-grade teacher, is effusive in her praise of the program. She recalls the lessons’ strong tie-ins to math and science. Best of all, at the end-of-year school picnic, students harvested their garden and enjoyed eating the fruits of their labor and studies. These students were “definitely more receptive to trying the vegetables they had grown themselves,” reports Martin. Furthermore, she notes that the hands-on learning in the garden was particularly helpful to English as a Second Language students, because tangible experiences help reinforce vocabulary and language in a way that sitting at a desk cannot. The Growing Healthy Habits curriculum offers a wonderful opportunity to teach students the joy and benefits of growing their own produce while reinforcing valuable education standards. The authors hope more schools will embrace the idea, particularly in light of Michelle Obama’s initiative to promote healthy eating and school gardens. And parents will certainly appreciate less picky eaters at the family table. In her previous life, Wendy W. Simmons was a staff writer for the Gallup Poll News Service and an associate editor of the Gallup Management Journal. In her current life, she manages a Bethesda household overrun by small children.
Growing Healthy Habits www.fsnep.com
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SQN Communications 58
• april/may 2010
|
Leesburg, Virginia
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Hagerstown, Maryland
in the garden
Catching Up Sean Sheppard Photo by Kristen Taylor
Feeling behind in the garden? Follow these tips to get caught up.
O
ne of the most difficult things to do in the garden is just get started. Winter turns so quickly into summer that spring can be completely overlooked. This means many missed opportunities for favorite crops—such as lettuce, broccoli, mustards, arugula, and peas—that need cool days but plenty of sunshine in order to grow healthily. If you weren’t able to get a spring garden planted this year, don’t despair! The midAtlantic has a 12-month growing season. The trick is knowing when to start and how to set things up. With proper planning, you can make sure you never miss a planting opportunity again. Let’s see what you can get growing today and how you can get a jump on your fall garden.
It’s Not Too Late For starters, let’s talk about what can go in right now. May is the month to get your warm-season crops (those started in late spring and throughout the summer) in the ground along with plenty of compost and a sure-fire irrigation system ready to combat the summer heat. Consistent summer producers are tomatoes, corn, beans, cucumbers, peppers, squash, and eggplant. If you haven’t started these from seed in late March or early April, pick up transplants at farmers markets and gardening stores or from a friend who started too many plants. It isn’t too late to start some seeds for summer planting. Try starting corn in flats: It only takes about 5 to 8 days for a corn seed to germinate, and after another 5 to 10 days, it is big enough to go into the ground.
Pick up transplants at farmers markets and gardening stores or from a friend who started too many plants. Beans are very similar. Peppers and eggplants, on the other hand, can take as long as 20 days to germinate and need to be at a consistent temperature of 70 to 75 degrees to do so. Get warm-season transplants in the ground between June 15 and July 1, but feel free to experiment, since sometimes fall comes late.
Looking Ahead to Fall Fall is one of the most bountiful growing seasons in this region. Fall’s warm days
and cool nights, like those found in spring, provide perfect conditions for leafy greens, broccoli, cauliflower, peas, and root crops. (Crops grown early in the spring and fall are referred to as cool-season crops.) One of the tricks for growing cool-season favorites is to start the young plants while it is still hot. To have a productive fall garden, start these seeds as early as the third week of July and routinely throughout August and the beginning of September. Take care to understand germination and maturity
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dates for the crops you want to plant: for example, broccoli and cauliflower will need to be started earlier than lettuce or mustard.
What to Cook How to Shop
Set up some sort of season-extension device outfitted with shade netting to mitigate the sun’s powerful rays. For example, bend PVC pipes and drive each end into the ground over your garden beds, and then cover the structure with some shade netting. (This can be professional-grade netting purchased from a supplier, or you can use something as simple as old bed sheets.) Young transplants need plenty of water and attention, so be prepared to take good care of them. Fall is also the best time to establish an orchard of fruit trees, so be thinking now about what you want to order and where it will go in your yard. And get a head start on next spring by planting garlic, onions, and leeks, which can survive through the winter. This fall, consider growing cover crops along with your vegetable and fruit crops. Cover crops are typically grains, legumes, or brassicas that are grown not for their food value but for their benefits to the soil. Crops such as wheat, rye, vetch, sorghum, radishes, and buckwheat produce plenty of biomass that can be used in your compost pile. Additionally, the root systems of these plants are great for breaking up soil and fixing nutrients, especially nitrogen, in the soil. Plan a broadcast sowing—lightly sprinkling seeds on your prepared beds—in September and October. The seeds will germinate before regular freezing and provide a dense greenery throughout the winter.
No More Excuses Don’t be discouraged if you aren’t in the ground with your plants yet! Start small if you’re feeling overwhelmed. Is digging a garden bed too much work? Use containers to grow
Year-Round Garden Planning Guide April
With season-extension devices (hoop frames, cold frames, etc.), cool-season transplants like broccoli and collards can be planted in the garden; warm-season crops like peppers and tomatoes can be started in flats or cold frames. Seasonextension devices use plastic or fabric cloth, tightly wrapped around the lid of a growing box, to trap heat and reduce damage caused by spring rains and wind.
May
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The average last frost date in central Virginia is between April 15 and May 1. (Dates vary slightly for other areas, so check with your local extension agent or gardening center for specific information.) Just to be safe, wait until mid-May to take away season-extension devices and to put your warm-season transplants, such as tomatoes and corn, in the ground. Peppers, eggplants, and winter squash should be planted even later.
June–July
Water. Water. Water. Ambitious gardeners can start cool-season transplants (mostly broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower) at the end of July. Start your seeds for the fall in flats, and make sure they are shaded during the heat of the day so the soil they are germinating in will not dry out. Keep in mind that many cool-season crops won’t germinate in soil above 80 degrees.
August
Start germinating lettuce, kale, collards, and other cool-season crops. Be aggressive in removing diseased or buggy warmseason plants. (Diseased squash and tomatoes can bring down healthy cucumbers, pumpkins, and peppers if left unattended.)
Cool-Season Crops Broccoli • Brussels Sprouts • Cabbage • Carrots • Cauliflower • Chard • Collards • Herbs • Kale •
Lettuce • Mustard • Oats • Onions • Peas • Potatoes •
Spinach Warm-Season Crops Beans • Bell Peppers • Cantaloupe • Cucumbers • Hot Peppers • Okra • Orach • Peanuts • Popcorn • Pumpkins • Southern Peas
• Squash •
Sweet Corn • Sweet Peppers • Sweet Potatoes • Tomatoes • Watermelons
arugula, mustard, and lettuce, which are absolutely delicious four to six weeks after planting and can be grown in a small box. The most important thing anyone can do is to start seeds and take care of them. Whatever you choose to grow, know that the very act of growing and eating what you harvest is success in itself. Together with Tim Adkins, Sean Sheppard operates Backyard Farmer—a full-service landscape and education company—from an old warehouse in Richmond’s Manchester neighborhood. Find them at www.backyardfarmer.us.
A REVOLUTION
of fresh food choices starts here!
TURKEY HILL September
This is the perfect time for transplanting your fall crops and direct sowing shortmaturity plants from seed right in the ground. Start lettuce, mustard, chard, and arugula from seed; transplant collards, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, lettuce, and mustards.
October
While you are gathering leaves and cleaning your garden, start a compost pile with the waste. This is also the best month to plant garlic and cover crops. Homeplace Earth in Ashland, Virginia (www.homeplaceearth.com), is a great local resource for information on cover crops.
November–January
STABLES
During these months, plan your garden for next year. If this is your first garden, make a sketch of your beds and then figure out what crops will go in each bed in the spring and what will come after them. Order seeds, potatoes, garlic, and onion sets from a respected seed company, like Southern Exposure in Louisa, Virginia (www .southernexposure.com).
February–March
Cool-season seeds can be started indoors (with a window sill, greenhouse, cold frame, etc.) in these months. Make sure to stagger seed-starting efforts so you don’t end up with too much of one crop all at once. A lot of plants can be directly sown into properly prepared soil, as long as some sort of cover can be put over top during germination. Potatoes can be planted as early as March 15.
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PRESENTS
Two Washingtons Meet A Benefit for the Rappahannock Food Pantr y
SATURDAY, APRIL 24, 2010 Pre-Party Book Reading & Signing 3:00 to 5:00 P.M. presented by r.h. ballard Please join special guests Betsey Apple and food and wine experts Marian Burros, Bill Plante, and Clark Wolf for an event honoring the life of celebrated New York Times journalist R. W. “Johnny� Apple. The event will feature a reading and book signing of Far Flung and Well Fed: The Food Writing of R. W. Apple, Jr., as well as wines from Rappahannock County and the cheeses of Cowgirl Creamery. A portion of the event’s sales will benefit the Rappahannock Food Pantry.
307 Main Street, Washington, VA h (540) 675-1411 h www.rhballard.com Spring10FlavorAd
3/25/10
A Celebration of Local, Seasonal Food & Wine 6:30 p.m. at The Meadows in Washington,VA the historic home of Beverly and John Fox Sullivan
8:44 AM
Page 1
brewing m brewing up moooon nsshhiin nee Guests will enjoy a lamb and pig roast accompanied by foods fromup Rappahannock
ccaakkeess!!
%) */. 1$3 , !) /) and revealed in the April/May 2010 issue of , special guests Mark Russell, # 4%)! ) Betsey Apple, Clark Wolf, Marian Burros and wine auctions conducted by , ) John 3 ,! -1**)%)# *0!, */, Fox Sullivan, featuring selections from the Inn at Little Washington’s wine cellar */ '! $* *' .! and R. W. “Johnny� Apple’s esteemed private collection. (**)-$%)! &!- !60! -$%++! $/) ,! - *" .$!-! T icke t s ava i l a b l e th ro u g h .,! .- '' *0!, .$! */).,35 %,#%)% ! 1%.$ +,**" */ '! (540) 987-9299 www.flavormags.com $75 per .$!36,! ( person casual attire is suggested +*. -.%''! Food -(/) ,3! -+%,%. ",*( Ticket and auction proceeds will benefit the Rappahannock Pantry .$! )!2. */).3 *0!, ) + & $! ,.3 &% & .*+ %) *, '' .* 3 Fresh - Local - Seasonal County, a sampling of the best Virginia wines as chosen by D.C.’s top sommeliers
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.!,'** .,!!. ,,!).*) %,#%)%
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RED TRUC K
“There are only two questions about food. Is it good? And is it authentic?� Guiliano Bugialli
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seasonal table
Your Spring Kitchen Recipes and Photos by Suzanne Simon & Bettina Stern
There seems to be an issue getting people to cook from scratch more often: Way too many people think they just don't have that kind of time. But instead of focusing on our clocks, we should focus on our calendars. To be inspired to cook a meal for family or friends, the seasonal concept is a better point at which to start. Cooking with in-season ingredients does not mean spending hours in the market and kitchen every day or hours planning elaborate menus. Seasonal cooking is about catching fresh ingredients in their prime and cooking in a way that does not blunt the brightness of fresh, young ingredients. Peas and sugar snaps cooked momentarily are simply splendid tossed with a little butter. Tender pea shoots can be eaten raw, similar to sprouts, or gently stir-fried. Catch local fish while you can, and accessorize with a simple, fresh marinade. Buy the season's first strawberries and eat them fresh or turn them into a sweet sorbet. Herbs are at their most tender in spring. Forget those overpriced little packs sold in the supermarket. Use huge handfuls of parsley, dill, mint, cilantro, basil, and more in your kitchen. Maximize their fresh scent and flavor by storing them properly: Keep both leafy-type and shrubby herbs unwashed in plastic bags with air trapped inside, or in airtight containers, in a not-too-cold refrigerator. They can be quickly rinsed right before you chop them or toss them into a dish. Developing a new strategy for shopping for in-season food will make cooking easier. Instead of frantically dashing around after work trying to think of something to cook for supper, let what’s in-season at the market be your guide. Choose your recipe after you see what’s fresh. Your food will taste better, and you will end up a little less frazzled. Spring is the “season of anticipation.” Here is an idea of what’s to come.
aspar agus
f
spring lamb
green garlic f
fresh herbs
baby beets
f
r amps
rockfish
f
rhubarb
new potatoes
f
f
artichokes f
morels
pea shoots
sugar snap peas
f
leeks
first str awberries
f
apricots
cherries
f
spring onions
Suzanne Simon and Bettina Stern are real cooks with real kitchens. They inspire home cooking by writing and passing on recipes and tips on what to cook and how to shop. Go to Loulies.com to share their kitchens and to find more MarketCook recipes.
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seasonal table
prosciutto
&
grilled aspar agus bruschetta Whether you buy thin, standard, or jumbo stalks of asparagus is a matter of personal preference. All can be equally tender. The key to good taste is buying asparagus in-season. Asparagus is delicious grilled, as suggested in this recipe. However, feel free to use another cooking method if it suits you better.
Come to the 9th annual Rappahannock Plant Sale for high-quailty plants grown here. Vegetable starts, herbs, annual flowers, perennials, native plants, trees, shrubs, and more! Also featuring locally crafted garden furniture and accessories. Food and drinks available. Saturday May 1st , 9-3 Waterpenny Farm, Sperryville, VA on Rte 211 East of Sperryville see www.waterpennyfarm.com for directions.
Start your garden Locally Grown!
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• april/may 2010
Serves 6 to 8. 1 pound asparagus spears Extra virgin olive oil Kosher or sea salt Freshly ground black pepper Crusty bread ¼ to 1/3 pound prosciutto ½ lemon Preheat the grill. You want it to be nice and hot when you’re ready to cook. Trim asparagus by snapping off the woody ends. Toss with olive oil and some salt and pepper on a baking sheet. Slice bread to desired thickness. When the grill is ready, grill asparagus 2 to 3 minutes, until slightly charred and tender. (You can use a grill basket or you can set the stalks crosswise to the grill grate.) Set aside. Grill bread until toasted to your liking. Assemble toast slices on one big platter or on individual serving plates. Drizzle with olive oil. Layer slices of prosciutto and asparagus on top. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice.
seasonal table
pea shoot salad with fresh herbs The great thing about adding fresh herbs to a salad is that you can use a simple dressing of lemon and olive oil. Keep your eyes open for tender pea shoots at the market. Because they are so delicate, they are not always available. Serves 6. 1 bunch pea shoots 1 large head butter or bibb lettuce ¼ cup chopped dill ¼ cup chopped chives 2–3 tablespoons good olive oil Juice from 1 lemon Kosher or sea salt Freshly ground black pepper Crumbled feta cheese (optional) Gently wash and dry pea shoots and lettuce. Place in a salad bowl with chopped dill and chives. Drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice to taste and season with salt and pepper. Toss and serve. Add a bit of crumbled feta, which goes well with dill, if you like.
START A REVOLUTION IN YOUR OWN KITCHEN “Eat food that is good for you, and you will enliven and renew body and mind. TRUE FOOD shows you the way. “
–Deepak Chopra Author, Reinventing the Body, Resurrecting the Soul
TRUE FOOD offers eight practical, money-saving steps for natural, healthy food preparation and enjoyment. Foreword by sustainable foods pioneer Alice Waters. Available wherever books are sold.
Nationalgeographic.com/books
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seasonal table
grilled harissa rockfish with gingered beets According to the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch, Atlantic wild striped bass—also known as rockfish—are found at record levels as a result of effective fishery management and strong conservation actions. Considered a “best choice” fish, over 70 percent of the striped bass population uses the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries for spawning and nursery grounds. You can make this two ways: marinate the fish for up to four hours before grilling or slather harissa on the fish just after grilling. Serves 6. 3 large dried ancho chiles Half of a 15-ounce can plum tomatoes Generous pinch cumin seeds 2 large garlic cloves, 1 minced 1 teaspoon smoked paprika Generous pinch cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon sherry vinegar About ½ cup extra virgin olive oil Juice of ½ lemon For harissa
Kosher or sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 3 bunches baby beets 1 medium shallot, minced 1 teaspoon jalapeno, finely diced 2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger Juice of ½ lime Small handful each of mint and cilantro, minced 2½ pounds rockfish (striped bass)
Heat a small cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. When hot, dry-toast the ancho chiles on both sides for a couple of minutes. Remove to a heat-resistant bowl and cover with boiling water. Let sit for at least 15 minutes. In same pan, dry-toast the cumin seeds until just fragrant and darkened. Remove them to a mortar and pestle and grind until coarse. Add tomatoes to a sauté pan and cook for a few minutes until the juices reduce a bit and the tomato darkens some. Let cool. Drain chiles well and place them in a food processor or blender. Add cooked tomatoes, cumin, garlic, cayenne, paprika, vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste. With the motor running, add olive oil and blend well. Season with lemon juice and add more salt and pepper, if needed. 66
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Marinate the fish in the harissa, coating it well, or place harissa in a container to use later when serving. For beets Preheat oven to 400 F. Remove most of the beets’ stems (leaving a little attached) and peel beets. (Save the beet greens. You can sauté them later in a little olive oil, salt, and pepper. They are, oh, so delicious!) Toss the beets in olive oil and season with a bit of salt. With a piece of aluminum foil large enough to cover all the beets tightly, put the beets on the foil, close the foil pack securely, and roast the beets in the oven for about 40 minutes, or until tender when pierced. When the beets are done, carefully open the foil pack, let the beets cool a bit, and then cut them into ½-inch wedges. In a medium bowl, combine shallots, jalapeno, garlic, ginger, mint, and cilantro. Add several glugs of olive oil and toss the beets. Season with salt, a few generous grindings of black pepper, and lime juice. Set aside. For fish Prepare the grill. Make sure it is hot before placing fish on to cook. Place fish on hot grill, skin-side down. Cook 3 to 4 minutes on each side, turning carefully. When the fish is done, it will begin to flake and separate a little. To serve Serve with gingered beets, drizzling some of their juicy vinaigrette over and around the fish. Serve with spring carrot mash.
spring carrot mash Spring carrots are tender and sweet. They are a wonderful accompaniment to roasts, grilled meats, and fish, and they add great color to the table. As with all purées, be careful not to over process or the mash will have a whipped consistency. Serves 6. 2 pounds carrots, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds Cilantro, stems and leaves ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 large white onion, diced Kosher or sea salt Freshly ground black pepper Place carrots and one handful of cilantro stems in a steamer basket over boiling water, cover, and cook for 20 minutes, until tender. Meanwhile, heat a medium-size saucepan or Dutch oven, pour in about ½ cup olive oil and add diced onion. Season with 2 teaspoons of salt and a few generous grindings of black pepper. Sauté until onions have softened, about 5 minutes. Add steamed, drained carrots and cilantro, and cook another 8 minutes, stirring and scraping the pan, until the carrots have lightly caramelized. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Gently purée the mixture in a food processor, by pulsing, until mashed. Slowly add another ¼ cup olive oil and puree until mixed. Season with more salt and pepper, if needed.
r.h.ballard
french tablecloths fine art rugs gifts
Lettuce Feed You! The Farm at Sunnyside is now accepting new members for our 2010 CSA. Our weekly pick-up program offers fresh, local, certified organic fruits and vegetables.
307 main st. washington, virginia open daily, 10 am to 6 pm 540.675.1411
www.rhballard.com
For more information: Call 540-675-9946 or email emily@thefarmatsunnyside.com
www.flavormags.com
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garlic scape butter This butter can be used on bread, added to pasta, or melted over fish or grilled steak. It is wonderful to have on hand. 6 garlic scapes 1/3 cup fresh parsley 2 sticks unsalted butter, slightly softened ½ teaspoon kosher or sea salt Freshly ground pepper Wash and rinse garlic scapes and parsley. Finely chop using a knife or food processor. In a bowl, mix about 2 tablespoons butter with chopped garlic scapes, parsley, salt, and freshly ground pepper. Put this mixture in a small pan and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the garlic scapes are softened and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove to a small bowl and let cool completely. Once cool, mix in the remaining butter and chill in desired container. ENHANCED
Find a recipe for a Sorrel Frittata at flavormags.com.
you are what you eat
x Local and organic meat, dairy, and produce x Gluten-free foods x Natural vitamins and herbal remedies x Cruelty-free, natural bodycare items Barracks Rd. Shopping Ctr. M-F 9-8, Sat & Sun 10-6 434-977-1965
www.RebeccasNaturalFood.com
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Better Food Begins Here* you are what
you eat
x Local and organic meat, Organic, Soy-Free dairy, and produce Feeds • Mineral x Gluten-free foods• OMRI Approved Supplements x Natural vitamins and Fertilizers herbal remedies • Humates x Cruelty-free, natural
Delivery throughout Northern & Central Virginia bodycare items Call Kevin, Steve or Keith at 888-699-7088 www.countrysidenatural.com Barracks Rd. Shopping Ctr. 9-8, Sat grower & Sun 10-6 *M-F ask your or producer if they use 434-977-1965 Countryside Natural www.RebeccasNaturalFood.com Products.
seasonal table
str awberry thyme sorbet This is an example of how fresh herbs do not always need to be used in savory dishes. Sorbet is one of the easiest desserts to make using fresh, ripe fruit, and we love this combination because of its unsuspecting flavor. You'll need an ice cream maker for this recipe. Makes about 1 pint. 1 pound fresh strawberries ¾ cup sugar Juice of ½ lemon 1 tablespoon vodka 6 sprigs fresh thyme, plus additional for garnish (optional) ¼ cup water Kosher salt Rinse strawberries and then cut them into quarter pieces. Add ½ cup sugar, lemon juice, vodka, and a pinch of salt to a bowl. Let stand for about 1 hour. While the strawberries sit, place water, ¼ cup sugar, and thyme sprigs in a small saucepan. Heat to a boil until sugar dissolves. Let cool, and then pour over the strawberries. Let stand for at least 1 hour. Remove thyme sprigs from mixture and puree strawberries with their juice until smooth. Churn in an ice cream maker (according to your ice cream maker instructions), and serve or freeze for later use. (If frozen, you'll need to let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes before serving to soften up a bit.)
passionately committed to seasonal and local
Restaurant Catering Wine Tastings CSA Food Matters is Open Tuesday through Sunday Weekend Brunch 703-461-3663 www.foodmattersva.com Cameron Station, Alexandria
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the guest list
Adam Rogers, Jesse Rogers, Maggie Rogers
Chocolates Galore & More Event February 19, 2010 Lansdowne, Virginia
Guests at this year’s event raised more than $30,000 to support the YMCA Loudoun County Building Bridges annual giving campaign, which provides scholarships and other funds to local families. The judges, including Flavor’s Jennifer Conrad Seidel, gave the Overall Critic’s Choice award to Market Salamander.
Wendell Fisher, Gene Jones and Stan Law Jason Reaves, Kenny Newman and Vaughn Shaggs
Roldan Macanas Flynn, Natalie Kiefaber and Aaron McCloud
photos by molly mcdonald peterson
Rachel Rowland and Brooke Parkhurst
r o a s t r o a s t r o a s t www.centralcoffee.com roast roast roast roast roast roa
fresh best beand fresh best beans fresh best beans fresh best beans fresh best beans fresh best beans 100% B I O D E G R A D A B L E P A C K A G I N G
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COUNTY
beans beans2010 beans beans beans beans beans beans beans beans beans beans beans • april/may
V A.
the guest list
Sharon Pierce and Gabriel M. Key
Forum for Rural Innovation March 19, 2010 Winchester, Virginia Phillip Ramsey and Avis Renshaw
During Loudoun County’s sixth annual Forum for Rural Innovation, regional farmers and food providers shared and swapped innovative strategies on how to improve their business models without harming the environment.
Lea Vittitow and Jim Justice
photos by molly mcdonald peterson
Ann Higgins and Melissa Harris
AP Environmental Science Class Spring Break Trip – Flint Hill School in Oakton, VA
The Atlantic Food Summit March 4, 2010 Washington, D.C.
This event brought together experts from around the nation to discuss controversial questions concerning food safety, nationwide nutrition, and food labeling. The event’s keynote speaker was Dr. Margaret Hamburg, commissioner of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. photo by jennifer conrad seidel
Josh Viertel, Maddy Beckwith and Zeke Emanuel
Local Flavor We work closely with local farmers and vintners to bring you the best. By combining the fruits of their labors with our inspired culinary craft and impeccable service, we create a memorable dining experience for you. That’s why we have been recognized as one of the finest restaurants in Loudoun County for over 20 years.
American Restaurant, Café & Bar 203 Harrison Street, SE Leesburg, VA 703.771.9300 www.tuskies.com © 2009 galenphoto.com
FlavorLamb.FlavorMag.indd 1
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www.flavormags.com
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the guest list
The Governor’s Cup Grand Tasting at the Virginia Wine Expo
Matthieu Finot and David King
February 26, 2010 Richmond, Virginia
Virginia Governor Bob McDonnell awarded the overall gold medal to King Family Vineyards’ Matthieu Finot for his 2007 Meritage at the third-annual Governor’s Cup Grand Tasting. The event kicked off the weekend’s Virginia Wine Expo, featuring over 350 wines from 65 wineries and attended by thousands of wine lovers.
Governor Bob McDonnell and Matthieu Finot
Governor Bob McDonnell and Melissa Harris
Jennifer Conrad Seidel and Gabriele Rausse
Doug Fabbioli
photos by kelly hopkins
Embassy of Finland February 24, 2010 Washington, D.C.
Finnish Ambassador Pekka Lintu invited guests to join in a celebration of the embassy’s green initiatives. It recently became the first LEED-embassy in the United States. photos by james r. brantley
Nini Ferguson, Melissa Harris, Lynn Sullivan
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Laurel Colless, Ambassador Pekka Lintu, Nini Ferguson
Dorothy Kosinski and Michel Heitstuman
the guest list
NICFA Farm Food Voices
Robyn Besserman, Jenn Flynn and Rob Weland
March 10, 2010 Washington, D.C.
Local food purveyors and providers joined forces at this year’s event to ensure that regional food systems are receiving the legislative attention and congressional backing they need to thrive. After a day of meeting with legislative aides, farmers and NICFA members presented a local foods feast for the legislators. photos by molly mcdonald peterson
Spike Gjerde, Andy Tzortzinis and Jill Snyder
Joel Salatin (and pig)
Melissa Harris and Autumn Reynolds Jim and Betsy Dolphin
Delaplane Cellars Grand Opening March 27, 2010 Delaplane, Virginia
At Delaplane Cellars, owners Jim and Betsy Dolphin celebrated the grand opening of the tasting room. photos by molly mcdonald peterson
Amanda and Derek Luhowiak
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Monticello's only winery to be served in the White House for the Governors Ball!
‘‘... the region’s most
consistent track record.’’ — WINE S PECTATOR M AGAZINE
DOUBLE GOLD MEDAL Jefferson Cup
GOLD MEDAL Monterrey Wine
Competition 2010
Invitational
O PEN W ED -S UN
M ONDAY
HOLIDAYS
AND ALL
11
AM -6 PM
(434) 984-4272
www.SugarleafVineyards.com 3613 WALNUT BRANCH LANE N O RT H GA R D E N , VA 2 2 9 5 9 74
• April/May 2010
Located between Monticello and Ash Lawn on Thomas Jefferson’s original 1774 vineyard sites. Open daily for tours and tastings. For additional information, please call 800-272-3042 or visit WWW.JEFFERSONVINEYARDS.COM
Features
April/May 2010
96 Unleash Your Inner Winemaker The enology and viticulture programs at Piedmont Virginia Community College are training job seekers and launching dreamers. Jennifer Conrad Seidel
Departments
77 flights 84 drink seasonally 86 pairing Celebrating This Long-Awaited Spring Raise a glass and toast this glorious spring with these pairings. Xavier Mariezcurrena
88 blind tasting The Capital’s Hot Somms, The Commonwealth’s Hot Wines Flavor arranged a blind (tasting) date to let the Old Dominion’s wine work its charm on the District’s wine stewards. Bill Plante
94 winemaker’s notes Matthieu Finot King Family Vineyards’ winemaker wants wine lovers to enjoy his wines as a celebration of place.
101 imbibe Home Sweet Brew If you’re a fan of craft beers, you may want to try crafting your own brew. Evan Williams
Columns
82 growing wines Achieving Balance in Wine Country Virginia wineries will find it hard to be both entertainment venues and high-quality producers. Jim Law photo of malted grain at fifth season gardening co. by laura merricks
2010 ADVERTISEMENT FOR VISIT LOUDOUN
Publication: Flavor Magazine | Issue: Spring/Summer | Ad Size: Full page
oudoun boasts exquisite culinary and heritage experiences including significant historic sites, more than 20 award-winning wineries, farm-to-table dining, golf and hiking, and road trips along scenic byways, all set amidst the backdrop of stunning vistas and charming small towns. Only 25 miles from DC. To plan your getaway, or for information, go to VisitLoudoun.org.
The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm
LOUDOUN WINE TRAIL
Enjoy an unforgettable evening savoring organic, local, seasonal cuisine from our farm to your table. Whether choosing the a la carte or prix fixe menu, the modern American style, inspired by nature, reflects the seasons. Reservations required.
e 540-822-9017 www.patowmackfarm.com
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Clyde’s Willow Creek Farm is a recreation of the 18th century American Inn featuring American cuisine and seasonal outdoor dining. Visit our raised-bed garden and beehives next to our restored barns when you dine. 571-209-1200 | www.clydes.com
Let our 22 award-winning wineries provide a taste of the rich blend of tradition and excellence. Discover perfectly blended varietals and savor the aroma of years of winemaking expertise, all amidst the breathtaking backdrop of vineyards and charming historic towns.
800-884-9108
www.DCWineCountry.com
Flights
Amber Davis
Liquor in the Rye After living in Loudoun County for over 12 years and witnessing the growth of Northern Virginia’s wine country, Scott and Becky Harris decided to turn their love of all things distilled into a new career by opening the area’s first family-run distillery last year. Located in Purcellville, Virginia, Catoctin Creek Distilling Company is crafting small-batch spirits distilled from the rye grain: Roundstone Rye, a 100 percent pure rye barrel-aged whisky; Mosby’s Spirit, a clear, 80 proof grain spirit; and Watershed Gin, a twicedistilled rye gin with a secret blend of herbs and spices. The company’s spirits are Kosher certified and made from organic ingredients, and they are distilled using filtered local water from Loudoun County. The three flagship liquors will be available throughout Northern Virginia, Washington, D.C., and Maryland later this year, with Roundstone Rye on the Virginia ABC shelves starting in May. Catoctin Creek Distilling Company (540) 751-8404, www.catoctincreek.com
Savor Beer It seems that wine festivals aren’t the only popular springtime drinking events. This year’s Savor festival, one of the area’s preeminent displays of craft beer and gourmet food pairings, sold out in a matter of minutes when tickets went on sale in February. Featuring craft beer vendors from over 68 breweries and a wide assortment of local and artisanal food vendors, this second annual event has reached an unprecedented level of popularity, illustrating the region’s growing interest in craft beer. The (sold-out) event will take place on Saturday, June 5, from 7:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. at the National Building Museum in Washington, D.C. Savor www.savorcraftbeer.com
Propose a Toast u The Blue Ridge Bridal Showcase, an organization that specializes in wedding venues and planning in the Shenandoah Valley, will host a bridal boutique show on Sunday, April 25, from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. at The Winery at La Grange in Haymarket, Virginia. The theme for the event is “Buy Fresh, Buy Local,” and couples will be introduced to regional caterers, bakeries, florists, artisans, and event venues that source locally and specialize in green wedding planning. Admission is free. Brides and grooms will hear from other vineyards and venues about their wedding packages and will be entered into a drawing to win a getaway vacation. Chris Pearmund from Pearmund Cellars Winery will also be on hand to discuss Virginia wine selections for wedding parties. Blue Ridge Bridal Showcase (540) 667-5956, www.blueridgebridalshow.com The Winery at La Grange (703) 753-9360, www.wineryatlagrange.com
q In honor of the 40th anniversary of Earth Day, Washington, D.C., restaurants, cafes, and other venues will participate in Green Hour, a series of “green happy hours” featuring sustainable, local, and organic food and drink options at their establishments. Lasting over the course of five weeks from March 18 to April 23, the events aim to build momentum for Earth Day and raise awareness about ongoing efforts by the hospitality industry to make responsible choices for the environment. A portion of the proceeds from these happy hours will help support Earth Day Network, the environmental nonprofit that coordinates Earth Day events globally, and its Sustainable Feast D.C. Initiative. The green events will culminate with a series of Earth Day activities on the National Mall from April 17 to 25, including an advocacy event called The Climate Rally, on April 25. Green Hour earthday.org/campaigns /sustainable-feast
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Find Romance fall in love with
Sunset hills
V I N E Y A RD
Beautiful Historic Award Winning Wines OPEN DAILY Mon-Thurs 12pm-5pm Fri 12pm-8pm Sat &Sun 12pm-6pm www.sunsethillsvineyard.com 540 882-4560 or 703 725-2495 38295 Fremont Overlook Lane Purcellville, VA 20132
www.thewinekitchen.com 7 South King Street Leesburg, VA 20175 703.777.WINE
Eat, Drink, Simply .
Extreme Mixology u Celebrated mixologist and sommelier Todd Thrasher of Restaurant Eve represented the United States in the sixth annual 42Below Cocktail World Cup in New Zealand, which took place March 23–28. The U.S. team took the top award with a Thrasher-designed cocktail concoction called “I Have Too Much Thyme on My Hands Right Now at This Point in My Life.” Here’s the elusive recipe: 1 ounce 42Below vodka ½ ounce artichoke aperitif 1½ ounces lime thyme syrup Liberal dash of apple bitters Compressed apple thyme balls to garnish Thrasher and two other finalists from the U.S. competed against creative mixologists from 10 different countries during the contest, where each contestant was challenged to produce quality cocktails with mystery ingredients while engaging in extreme sports like bungee jumping and jet boating. Cocktail World Cup cocktailworldcup.com Restaurant Eve (703) 706-0450, www.restauranteve.com
The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm in Lovettsville, Virginia, recently celebrated the arrival of its new restaurant manager and mixologist, Patrick Forest. Forest has been concocting drinks for over 12 years and bartended most recently at the celebrated Volt Restaurant in Frederick, Maryland. Some of the signature drinks on his new 12-item specialty cocktail menu include orange ginger gin fizz, an orange-infused Tanqueray 10 gin and organic house-made ginger ale, and his Tuscany-inspired organic honey and cracked pepper vodka martini topped with Obergood Farm cheese. Like the restaurant, Forest is incorporating organic and local ingredients into his creations, making use of the herbs and other plants grown on-site. Every Thursday, restaurant customers can sample an assortment of tapas-style food items, which can be paired with Forest’s menu-inspired cocktails. The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm (540) 822-9017, www.patowmackfarm.com
The fresh flavors of spring are in full bloom at the Wine Kitchen.
Taste for Yourself Standout wines from the recent blind tasting sponsored by Flavor Magazine (see page 88) will be served at Two Washingtons Meet, a benefit for the Rappahannock Food Pantry held at The Meadows, the historic home of Beverly and John Fox Sullivan in Washington, Virginia, on Saturday, April 24 at 6:30 p.m. Guests will have a chance to buy wines donated by the Inn at Little Washington and by Betsey Apple, wife of the late R. W. “Johnny” Apple, a noted wine collector. Learn more—and buy tickets—at flavormags.com.
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A Different Agriculture Policy After decades of working in politics and government relations, Jim Turpin and Susan Prokop purchased an apple farm in Nelson County to plan for their “encore careers.” The couple decided to open Democracy Vineyards on the property in 2007 and intend to use their substantial collection of political memorabilia in the yetto-be-built tasting room. The couple first bottled their own wines in 2009 using grapes and unfinished wines from the Monticello viticultural area, and they also planted five acres of grapes on their property, which will be used in wines available in 2011. Paying homage to the 20 acres of apples on the land, their newest wine, Village View Gold, incorporates the farm’s signature apples, Ginger Golds. The vineyard’s five wines are distributed through Virginia Wineworks and are available in 35 retail outlets throughout the Commonwealth. Democracy Vineyards (434) 964-6124, www.democracyvineyards.com
A Wine-centric Culinary Education Want to learn the basics of wine and food pairing? Check out Charlottesville Wine & Culinary, which offers a number of classes aimed at helping the home cook master both the kitchen and the cellar. After extensive training at L’Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda, Maryland, and Napa Valley’s Camp Napa Culinary cooking school, owner Terre Sisson brought her culinary talents back to the Blue Ridge. In addition to hosting individual parties and group cooking sessions at private residences, Sisson currently leads pairing classes at two local wineries, Sweely Estate and First Colony. Working with local businesses and food producers, Sisson crafts seasonal menus that encourage students to taste-test and experiment with regional wine. Sisson also teaches classes at Mona Lisa Pasta in Charlottesville and will soon offer additional cooking classes at the Blue Rock Inn in Washington, Virginia. Charlottesville Wine & Culinary (434) 974-7444, www.wineandculinary.com
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Sips of Spring There’s no better way to welcome spring than by enjoying a glass of wine outdoors. Lucky for us, there is no shortage of quality wine festivals in the coming months. Held on the historic property of Montpelier, James Madison’s lifelong home, the Montpelier Wine Festival will take place on the weekend of May 1–2. Hosting over 20 wineries, the event will offer visitors a wide assortment of gourmet foods, musical entertainment, children’s activities, and culinary demonstrations on how to cook with wine. Festival guests will also receive a special admission discount to tour the Montpelier mansion during the weekend. Montpelier Wine Festival (540) 672-5216, www.montpelierwinefestival.com
The 24th Annual Front Royal Wine and Craft Festival will be held again this year in historic downtown Front Royal on Saturday, May 15, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Visitors can enjoy tastings from 20 Virginia wineries, arts and crafts activities, food vendors, and live entertainment. This year, the event will offer an increased array of family-friendly activities, including rides, games, and face painting. Tickets are free for children six and under. Front Royal Wine and Craft Festival (540) 635-3185, www.wineandcraftfestival.com
www.clairesrestaurant.com
The Best Food In Town
65 South Third St. Warrenton, VA 20186
540-351-1616 80
• April/May 2010
p Tickets go on sale April 1 for one of the region’s most established wine festivals—the 29th Annual Vintage Virginia Wine Festival. The event will be held again this year at Bull Run Regional Park’s Special Event Center in Centreville on June 5 and 6 from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m, and will feature a variety of artisan vendors, live performances, and over 50 wineries from around the state. To help patrons understand how Virginia’s unique terrior can affect each regional grape grown and the resulting characteristics of the wine, the festival is grouping participating wineries together based on their locations within the state. Vintage Virginia www.vintagevirginia.com
Impressive Endorsements u Not only did winemaker Emily Hodson Pelton of Veritas Winery in Afton, Virginia, have the opportunity to meet Secretary of State Hillary Clinton and first lady Michelle Obama at the Fourth International Women of Courage Awards at the State Department, her 2009 Viognier was one of the wines poured. The event honors women from all over the world who have fought for women’s rights and social justice. Pelton was invited to attend the event as the winner of the 2007 National Women’s Wine Competition for her dessert wine, Kenmar. Customers can sample Pelton’s wines at Veritas at the Easter Sunday Winemaker’s Brunch on April 4 or the Mother’s Day Winemaker’s Brunch on Sunday, May 9. Veritas Winery (540) 456-8000 www.veritaswines.com
For Sugarleaf Vineyards, 2010 has already been a rewarding year. Its 2008 Petit Manseng was one of three wines chosen from across the country to accompany the dinner menu at the 2010 White House Governor’s Ball—the second time Sugarleaf wines were featured at a White House event. In other news, the 2008 Petit Manseng and the 2008 Viognier received silver medals at this year’s San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, and the 2008 Petit Verdot received a gold medal at the 2010 Virginia Governor’s Cup Wine Competition. The winery will host a Mother’s Day chocolate and wine pairing this coming May. Sugarleaf Vineyards (434) 984-4272, www.sugarleafvineyards.com
Escape to Tuscany (via Delaplane) For an escape to Tuscany in Virginia’s wine country, head to Three Fox Vineyards in Delaplane, Virginia, where owners and vintners Holli and John Todhunter use traditional Italian methods to make Old World–style wines. Since the couple gained much of their wine knowledge from time spent with winemaking friends in Tuscany, many of the varietals grown on their 50-acre estate are native to Italy or are commonly found in Italian wines. Proving that such grapes can flourish in Virginia’s soil, four of their red wines—Alouette Cabernet Franc, Signor Sangiovese Reserve, Piemontese Nebbiolo, and Volpe Sangiovese—recently received top marks from Wine Enthusiast. On May 1, the nine-year-old winery will host a Haiti Earthquake Benefit Event from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., which will include cooking demonstrations by former White House pastry chef and author Roland Mesnier.
John and Pat Martin, sole proprietors
Three Fox Vineyards (540) 364-6073 www.threefoxvineyards.com
www.virginiatruffle.com pmartin@virginiatruffle.com
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growi n g wi n es
Achieving Balance in Wine Country Events may provide wineries with much-needed income, but are they unintentionally sidetracking the evolving reputation of Virginia wine?
F
auquier County has been experiencing a somewhat contentious winery zoning debate. At the most recent public hearing on the subject, I was the clear minority of one winery in speaking out in favor of a county zoning ordinance that would curb some winery events. Neighboring winery colleagues have expressed disappointment in my remarks and politely asked that I consider muting my opposition to an otherwise unified effort. This is a fair request. I have to admit that there are times when I fear that I have become the crusty curmudgeon who rains on the party. But ultimately, I couldn’t ignore that my neighbors’ wines and marketing activities have a very direct impact on my business in two ways: They affect both the reputation of Virginia wine overall and the relationship between wineries and their neighbors. The Dangling Qualifier Wines are categorized by region. Like it or not, an area’s wineries are all lumped in together. Many times I have heard what I call the “dangling qualifier” from customers tasting my wines: “This is good . . . for a Virginia wine.” My neighbors’ wines thus have an impact on my winery’s reputation and potential price point. This is true in other regions as well. In Australia, the inexpensive and heavily marketed brand Yellow Tail has been the bane of artisan high-end Aussie producers trying to sell wine in the American market. Some French wine regions have also felt the impact. In the 1970s, Beaujolais Nouveau was heavily promoted. They sold a lot of cheap, nondescript wine in a hurry. This cash-flow wine
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became a category killer. Small, traditional terroir-focused producers can now scarcely give their wines away. It is frightening to talk to these Beaujolais winegrowers. Wines from coveted terroirs in Morgon, Chénas, or Moulin-à-Vent no longer interest the wine-consuming public, who can only associate the term Beaujolais with nouveau. On more than one occasion I have heard Virginia wineries dismissed as simply “entertainment wineries.” These comments come from prestigious wine retailers and sommeliers in the Washington, D.C., area—potentially our best market. They carry few Virginia wines. The majority of Virginia wineries sell most of their production at their tasting rooms or at festivals. This is possible because these wineries are within a day trip of Washington, D.C. When there were just a handful of wineries, one only had to hang a shingle and open the tasting room doors. There were enough customers around for a small winery to sell its modest production. Today, however, there are close to 100 wineries within a reasonable drive of Washington. Special events, rather than improved wine quality, seem to be the trend of attracting customers. My fear is that as our industry becomes more entertainmentfocused, wine quality will take a backseat to the front of the house. Virginia is on the cusp of putting all the pieces together to make wines of exceptional quality. This requires risk, time, expense, and intellectual focus. On the other hand, market-driven wines are by definition safe, serviceable, soulless, and cash-flow friendly. It doesn’t have to be this way, but it usually is.
molly mcdonald peterson
Jim Law
Pendulum Swing (Or, From Darling to Devil) Ten years ago most residents viewed wineries and vineyards as a welcome, benign neighbor. Not only were vineyards romantic, but they also enhanced property values (if one believed real estate brochures). This euphoric period is history now, primarily due to community concerns over amplified music, buses, late evening events, and DUIs. Entrepreneurial impatience has replaced visionary winegrowing. Politically savvy wineries successfully lobbied the Virginia legislature to include weddings, concerts, and festivals as agricultural activities. These functions now fall under the guise of a recently passed state law that attempts to define normal and customary farm winery marketing activities. This law only makes sense to those who paid for it. Wineries have taken advantage of their farming status to the consternation of some of their neighbors.
As the growth of entertainment wineries continues, local county governments are being pressured by neighbors
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DOWNTOWN S. E. M S. --WINE
C, VA
to curb activities. As the growth of entertainment wineries continues, local county governments are being pressured by neighbors to curb activities. The resulting regulatory pendulum swing could eventually impact more traditional cellar-door tastings and sales. This would be devastating to the smaller, low-key wineries that depend on these sales for their livelihood. A new winery’s desire and need to host events is understandable. Linden Vineyards attempted to hold events when we first opened. We soon found that we were managing a separate business enterprise that was far removed from winegrowing. In Virginia, farm wineries are legally able to operate in agriculturally zoned land if they grow the majority of the grapes used to produce their wines. This keeps us honest. However, when farm wineries begin holding weddings and non-wine related events on a weekly basis while buying and serving “shiners” (unlabeled bottled wine) from other wineries, the sizzle has become more important than the steak, and we are all in trouble. Every winegrower’s goal is to produce a balanced wine. A balanced marketing program should follow.
T he
h Store - T e Restauran t
20128
Orlea
n, Virginia
Winemaker Jim Law is the owner and winegrower of Linden Vineyards in Fauquier County.
20128 The orlean store and restaurant
540.364.2774 www.flavormags.com
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dri n k S easo n a l ly
Recipes from
Alex Bookless at The Passenger Washington, D.C.
Photos by Molly McDonald Peterson
Diablo Blanco 1½ ounces Siete Leguas Blanco Tequila ¾ ounce Domaine de Canton 4 dashes lavender bitters (from Marshall Fawley III at Scofflaws Den) Prosecco Lemon zest One sprig thyme
In a glass, stir the tequila, Domaine de Canton, and bitters until cold. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and top with Prosecco. Garnish with lemon zest and a sprig of thyme.
The District 1 ounce rye whiskey 1 ounce Domaine de Canton ½ ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice 2 dashes angostura bitters Egg white (optional) Grated nutmeg (optional)
Serve in a cocktail glass. For a nice kick, add egg white and shake vigorously. Top with grated nutmeg. Serve in a white wine glass.
Public Enemy #2 2 ounces Irish whiskey ½ ounce fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice 1 ounce ginger beer 4 sprigs mint
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Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake and strain through a fine mesh strainer into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with mint sprig.
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April 17, 2010 at 12:00 AM
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April 18, 2010 at 1:00 AM
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THINK GLOBAL... DRINK LOCAL! SM
Organic and Kosher spirits
Coming in 2010 to an ABC store near you...
CATOCTIN CREEK Distilling Company Purcellville, Virginia
TM
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pairi n g
Celebrating This long-Awaited Spring Xavier Mariezcurrena
After Snowpocalypse, we feared spring might never come. But it’s finally here, so make the most of it with the right pairings.
spring is so exciting. While the flowers begin to bloom and the cold evenings draw to an end, chef Bryan Voltaggio and his team are hard at work updating the menu here at Volt to represent the seasonal changes. Along with spring come new ingredients and fresh inspiration. In Maryland, we are especially fortunate to have a diverse range of fruits, produce, and game meats, and even though I’ll miss the braised short ribs and risottos of winter, I’m excited to move on to fresher, cleaner flavors in my glass and on my plate.
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Love Is in the Air The bees are buzzing, the birds are singing, and there’s a little something extra in the air. To keep your juices flowing, the gang at Rappahannock River Oysters is harvesting some of the finest native Virginia oysters around with varieties ranging from the classic briny Olde Salt to the sweet and mild Sting Ray. Top your oyster off with a little caviar for a truly hedonistic experience. Pair your Chesapeake treasures with a beautiful bubbly
Delaplane, Virginia 20144 www.delaplanecellars.com
2187 Winchester Road
phone 540.592.7210
Friday–Sunday 11am–5pm
Monday and Thursday by Appointment
Classic and Not-So-Classic Pairings Nothing says spring to me more than soft-shell crabs. Their sweet, delicate meat and crunchy texture bring to mind some of my favorite warm-weather memories. Whether you prefer your soft-shell crabs sautéed in butter or crispy fried, a light and refreshing counterpart is the best way to bring out the crab’s natural sweetness. For a unique pairing, try your soft-shell crab with a glass of Black Ankle Vineyard Grüner Veltliner ($26.00). The Grüner Veltliner grape originated in Austria, and the grape’s lemony acidity and floral bouquet make it an ideal partner to a vast range of foods, from spicy Thai to bratwurst and sauerkraut. Beer and crabs have long been a crowd favorite. Fortunately for us, the worldclass craft brewery Flying Dog is situated right down the street from Volt. Garde Dog ($9.69/6-pack), its seasonal spring release, is a refreshing and citrusy farmhouse ale with plenty of cleansing carbonation and a light, refined finish.
Tasting Room Open
from Virginia’s Kluge Estate. The charming Kluge 2003 SP ($28.00) is a 100 percent Chardonnay sparkler, or blanc de blanc, with focused pear and green apple flavors, mineral effervescence, and nutty undertones.
Nothing says spring to me Light Up the Grill Spring means it’s time to get the grill fired up! The sweet and smoky char a hot grill lends to ingredients is intoxicating. To complement these flavors, I lean toward wines with lots of ripe fruit, plush texture, and an elegant finish. Because a mix of everyone’s favorite items often ends up on the grill, you need a versatile wine that can adapt to dishes ranging from fresh Pacific salmon to thick pork chops. When pairing for a grill-off, I tend to gravitate toward Pinot Noir. A pioneer in producing great Pinots in Maryland, Elk Run is the only grower of this Burgundian varietal in the Old Line State. Elk Run Pinot Noir ($30.99), full of vibrant red cherries, is easy to drink as you wait for the grill to heat up. Just make sure you save a glass for the main event. Say Cheese Chef Voltaggio has always been a believer in supporting local farmers. His passion and uncompromising commitment to finding the best our area has to offer has paid off in spades, inspiring all of us to seek out new gems. On my latest excursion, I discovered Meadow Creek Dairy, a family farm in the sunny mountains of southwestern Virginia. Grayson, the dairy’s award-winning cheese, has quickly become one of my favorite after-dinner treats. Grayson—with its soft creamy texture and sweet, nutty finish—is a great way to end a meal, especially when paired with an equally luscious and charming dessert wine, like Barboursville Vineyard Malvaxia Passito ($29.99). The wine has a golden color, viscous mouth feel, and flavors that remind me of baked apple pie and golden raisins. This pairing is so spot on, you’ll definitely want to keep a secret stash.
Our Point of View...
more than soft-shell crabs.
Xavier Mariezcurrena is the sommelier at Volt in Frederick, Maryland.
www.flavormags.com
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b l i n d tasti n g
The Capital’s hot Somms The Commonwealth’s hot Wines Bill Plante Photographs by Molly McDonald Peterson
Flavor invited some of the Capital foodshed’s most influential sommeliers over for a drink to see which Virginia wines would impress them. People have been making wine in Virginia since the 17th century. So why don’t diners see more Virginia wines on restaurant lists in and around the nation’s capital? Flavor publisher Melissa Harris hears this very question from both consumers and winemakers. “We convened this tasting panel,” she explains, “because we wanted to expose some of the area’s top sommeliers to what we believe are wines that would pair well with high-end food.” (For more from Harris, see page 10.) Harris asked more than 20 Virginia winegrowers to send samples of their work—the best red and white wines for pairing with food—and then invited a panel of sommeliers to taste and evaluate the 63 wines that were submitted. Five of the Capital foodshed’s most popular sommeliers made up the tasting panel: Derek Brown of The Passenger (D.C.), Scott Calvert of The Inn at Little Washington (Washington, Virginia), Gina Chersevani of PS 7’s (D.C.), Andy Myers of CityZen at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (D.C.), and Todd Thrasher of Restaurant Eve (Alexandria, Virginia). The tasting took place on a Monday morning in the spacious country kitchen in the Georgetown home of Beverly and John Fox Sullivan. Dozens of red wine bottles, sheathed in brown paper bags to completely obscure their labels, stood at attention on the sideboard. Dozens of whites waited in cartons out in the chilly garden.
Ten volunteer servers ringed the large round table in the Sullivans’ kitchen, pouring wines, changing stemware, and refilling glasses of water and plates of crackers to help clear the panel’s taste buds. Blinded by the Flight Sound like fun? Sure! But remember, this was a tasting. Swirl, smell, sip, savor, and spit 63 times while keeping it all straight in your notes. From start to finish, the tasting took four hours. Each wine was given a number that identified its flight and glass. For example, “WB3” was a white wine in the third glass of the second flight. Several hundred white and red wine glasses were brought in from a catering company and tagged with these same codes. Then the panel was given forms with these same codes for recording their tasting notes. The results were not revealed to anyone—until now. Sauvignon Blanc & Pinot Grigio The tasting began with five wines made from Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio grapes. It was an auspicious beginning. The clear winner was the Veritas 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. “Excellent fruit,” noted Calvert, adding “great acid in the middle and follows into the finish.” Thrasher noted “honey on the nose” and “mouth-filling.” There was a tie for second: The Glen Manor 2008 Sauvignon Blanc garnered “grapefruit, mediumwww.flavormags.com
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The Tasting Panel q Derek Brown
is a wine and spirits professional who has become a leading voice in the new cocktail renaissance. His latest project is a cocktail club and laboratory called the Columbia Room, inside his D.C. bar, The Passenger.
p Having gained
national recognition for her cocktail creations at D.C.’s Rasika and Arlington’s EatBar,
Gina Chersevani
is now the master mixologist behind the bar at D.C.’s PS 7’s.
q Scott Calvert, former president of Tastevin, Inc., a consulting and wine wholesale firm in New York City, currently serves as the wine director for the world-famous Inn at Little Washington in Washington, Virginia.
p After a four-year
stint as the assistant sommelier, caviste, and captain at the Inn at Little Washington, Andy Myers became the head sommelier for CityZen, at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in D.C., in 2006.
q Mix master Todd Thrasher currently
serves as the general manager, sommelier, and liquid savant for Restaurant Eve. He is also a partner in PX in Alexandria, Virginia.
b l i n d tasti n g
dry” in Chersevani’s notes and “light regal characteristics” in Brown’s. Thrasher’s notes on the 2008 Barboursville Pinot Grigio included “orange blossom, dry, good acidity,” and Brown described it as “clean, tart, grassy.” Chardonnay Chardonnay, the next flight, spurred a debate around the table. (Should it be grown in Virginia’s hot, humid climate?) No consensus was reached on a clear winner, but four were highly praised. Brown liked the “lemon curd, cut apples” and oaky finish of the panel’s favorite, the Gadino 2007. According to Thrasher, the King Family 2008 was “rich in the nose,” which Calvert also said was “very lush and soft in back.” Brown liked the Tarara 2008, too, describing it as “spicy and woody.” Calvert praised the Linden 2007, which tasted of apple, “a bit of cinnamon, a bit of mineral, too.” Viognier Viognier, the perfumed white grape of the Rhône Valley, was almost extinct a half-century ago. But it has since made a comeback, and it seems to do very well in Virginia. The panel sampled 13 different Viogniers and found some too high in alcohol, overripe, or funky on the nose. But Viognier’s unmistakable tropical-fruit, peach, and apricot lushness brightened many of the other samples. With no wine clearly in the top spot, Chersevani noted the “stone fruit” of the Rappahannock 2008 Noblesse, Brown noted the “floral characteristics” of the DelFosse 2007, Calvert noted the “peach” and “wood spice” of the Chester Gap 2008 Boisseau, and Thrasher noted the “sweet finish” of the Sugarleaf 2008. Cabernet Franc Two hours in, the tasters and their tired palates took a muchneeded break for a buffet lunch. Then they went back to work on three flights of red wines.
Remember, this was a tasting. Swirl, smell, sip, savor, and spit 63 times while keeping it all straight in your notes. First up was Cabernet Franc, generally regarded as Virginia’s most successful red grape. In Bordeaux, it’s generally blended with Cabernet Sauvignon. But in the Loire, Cab Franc shows off as a lighter-weight wine with delicious dark fruit, the same result it can produce in Virginia. The crowd pleasers: the Rappahannock Cellars 2007, “light spice . . . medium bodied, quite tasty” (Brown); the Sunset Hills 2007 Reserve, “sweet blackberries, sage—a mouthful” (Chersevani); and the Veritas 2008, “ruby red, spicy, and sweet on the palate” (Thrasher). Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Petit Verdot In the next group, we tasted three classic red grapes—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot, another Bordeaux blending grape particularly suited to the Virginia climate. The Sugarleaf 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon edged out the other wines in this flight. Brown found it full of “black cherry juice” and “juicy on the palate.” Three more wines were close behind: Calvert remarked that the Gadino 2007 Petit Verdot was full of “spice, cardamom, clove” and that its palate “is sweet cassis.” The finish of the Chester Gap 2007 Merlot was “long-lasting [with] a bit of violet” in Thrasher’s notes. Brown tasted “cinnamon, vanilla, cherry, plum,” and a “peppery finish” in the Rausse 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Meritage By this flight, the winter sun had begun to abandon the garden beyond the kitchen, but the tasters’ perseverance was rewarded by the final flight of 15 Meritage wines. The term Meritage was
At the blind tasting—which was graciously hosted by Beverly and John Fox Sullivan (above) in their Georgetown home—servers presented 63 wines over four hours. www.flavormags.com
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b l i n d tasti n g
The Standouts Whites
R eds
Sauvignon Blanc & Pinot Grigio
Cabernet Franc
Veritas 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, $18.00
Rappahannock Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc, $24.00
Glen Manor 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, $22.00
Sunset Hills 2007 Cabernet Franc Reserve, $40.00
Barboursville 2008 Pinot Grigio, $14.99
Veritas 2008 Cabernet Franc, $18.00
Chardonnay
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Petit Verdot
Gadino 2007 Chardonnay, $20.00
Sugarleaf 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, $30.00
King Family 2008 Chardonnay, $19.95
Gadino 2007 Petit Verdot, $27.00
Tarara 2008 Chardonnay, $30.00
Chester Gap 2007 Merlot, $19.00
Linden 2007 Chardonnay, $28.00
Rausse 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, not yet released
Viognier
Meritage
Rappahannock 2008 Noblesse Viognier, $17.50
Boxwood Winery 2007 Boxwood, $25.00
DelFosse 2007 Viognier, $25.00
Linden 2006 Hardscrabble Red, $39.00
Chester Gap 2008 Boisseau Viognier, $19.00
Delaplane 2007 Left Bank, $28.00
Sugarleaf 2008 Viognier, $27.00
coined by the California wine industry for wines blended in the Bordeaux style, using traditional Bordeaux grape varieties. The Boxwood Winery 2007 Boxwood bottling won praise from Chersevani, who wrote simply, “Green peppercorns, wood. I like it.” (This was a leap beyond the usual wine descriptors.) Brown called it “full-bodied, luscious.” Chersevani also praised the Linden 2006 Hardscrabble Red, writing, “Cherry, tobacco. I like it.” Myers and Thrasher preferred this one as well. Thrasher
described it as “woody and cedar notes, sweet in the mouth.” Thrasher also lauded the Delaplane 2007 Left Bank: “Comes together nicely.” The Road Ahead It’s important to note that over these four hours of intense focus and concentration, the tasting panel frequently disagreed. Take their comments as a guide, but trust your own palate. The more you taste, the more tuned in you’ll be to the nuances in the glass. Our professionals all agreed that Virginia isn’t the easiest place to grow grapes and make wine. As Myers put it, “Jefferson gave up [on growing vines] a long time ago, and he was a very smart dude!” But they also agreed that the Virginia wine industry, while still in its infancy, has made tremendous strides in recent years as growers figure out which varietals do best on which parcels of land. And these sommeliers expect Virginia wine to continue improving. Harris, Flavor’s publisher, points out that some restaurants are fond of Virginia wines but find them too expensive. “Most wineries in this region are small, so they find it difficult to match the price of other wines on the restaurants’ lists.” As diners committed to local food begin to request local wine, the industry will see increased sales in the district, says Harris. “People will pay more for a meal made with sustainably raised local ingredients. Our hope is that they do the same for locally made wine.” Journalist Bill Plante is CBS’s senior White House correspondent. A 30-year resident of D.C., he is also a well-known wine aficionado.
Find articles about many of the standout vineyards at flavormags.com. 92
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w i n e ma k e r ’ s n o t e s
MatthieuFinot
This year’s Virginia Governor’s Cup winner, Matthieu Finot of King Family Vineyards, says Virginia wine is part of the local food movement. Photos by Laura Merricks
Matthieu Finot arrived in Virginia in 2003. Educated at Lycée Viticole de Beaune in Burgundy, France, where he studied viticulture and oenology, Finot has worked as a winemaker for the past 15 years in Italy, South Africa, and his own native France. He currently works for King Family Vineyards and teaches winemaking classes at Piedmont Virginia Community College. In February, he was awarded the Virginia Governor’s Cup for his 2007 Meritage. S The local food movement is gaining momentum, and Virginians are beginning to develop a sense of place, or what the French call “terroir” (a word related to “terrain”). While this sense of place may be the key to developing a more sustainable food system, Matthieu Finot believes it is also the key to producing quality Virginia wine.
I
grew up in Crozes-Hermitage, France, and wine played a pivotal role in my life. Perhaps there was little doubt that I would end up in winemaking. Sharing bottles of wine with my father, I knew I liked to drink. But for me, winemaking is more than that—it is a way to get back to my farming roots. Wineries are farms. They may be perceived differently because we are producing “fun in a bottle.” But without farming, there is no winemaking.
The quality of the wine depends upon the quality of the crop, which in turn depends upon the quality of the weather. Wine will change every year. This is what we call the “vintage effect.” When you think of wine in this way, you come to understand the true concept of terroir and how drinking wine is a way to connect the palate to the planet. Wine is a living thing, always changing, so its effects and capabilities are numerous. A common misperception is that winemaking makes the wine. Winemakers are not magicians. If grapes are bad, there is not much a winemaker can do. Of course, you can manipulate the wine by adding more acid, tannins, sugar, grape concentrate, and so forth. But then you quickly lose the concept of terroir, and your wine will not be natural or very good. True
When you think of wine in this way, you come to understand the true concept of terroir and how drinking wine is a way to connect the palate to the planet. quality lies in the vineyard and vineyard management. The best wineries are the ones that practice good vineyard management and understand the importance of quality grapes and terroir. Of course, honesty and humility play a role, as well. One must accept what you have, what works best and what doesn’t, and continue to improve upon that. Once you have the right varietal and good ripeness, there is nothing to correct. You will have a very good, consistent, natural wine. That may sound easy, but Virginia’s terroir is challenging. It is wet and hot, with a lot of clay in the soil. We know what works well and what doesn’t. We know which varietals do well and which ones don’t. At King Family, 90 percent of our grapes come from our vineyard while the rest are grown here in the Monticello AVA [American Viticultural Area]. I know exactly what I’ve got in the vineyard. I know the best to time to harvest for optimum ripeness. I can go to the vineyard every day to
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check on the quality of the grapes. Consequently, I have a better understanding of our terroir and of our crop, which enables me to make better wine. Although vineyard management is the key to quality winemaking, we must constantly think of the bigger picture: the future of the Virginia wine industry. It is important for winemakers to support one another. This is the only way for us to develop a strong reputation in the wine world. Most of the winemakers I’m working with are going in the same direction: We all want to make better wine, so we’re going to try everything we can to succeed. If I keep all my knowledge to myself, to my winery, there is no way that I can have others’ input and, therefore, I will not progress either. There is no need to have secrets among winemakers. Give two winemakers the same grapes and they will each make something different. Winemakers are like artists. When you make wine, you are creating something with your own personal touch. Two artists may use the same paint, but each will produce something entirely unique. More importantly, everybody needs to be better. Virginia is still a very small wine industry, and it faces stiff international and out-of-state competition. We’re still fighting. I think we have good wine now—world-class even. Not everyone in Virginia is producing world-class wine, but more and more wineries are striving to do this. All we need to do now is to convince Virginians of this. Altering the consumer mindset is not an easy task. But I believe that with the growing local food movement at our industry’s heels, the time for Virginia’s wines is riper than ever. We aren’t in California’s Napa Valley, France’s Rhône Valley, or Italy’s Piemonte. We’re in Virginia. Yet we can definitely grow grapes—some varietals better than others. Returning to the concept of terroir is key to changing that mindset. Once Virginians begin to embrace the qualities that make Virginia wine uniquely Virginian, a true appreciation will develop. I think we’re heading in a good direction. We’re still a very small industry. But there are more and more people who are committed to doing what it takes to improve Virginia’s wine production and who understand the true concept of terroir and vineyard management. I hope the local food movement can help further our cause.
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handcra fted in Virginia
ChesapeakeBayDistillery.com please drink responsibly
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In the fields and cellars of wineries around Charlottesville, a local community college is training future winemakers, vineyard owners, and wine industry professionals.
Unleashing Your Inner Winemaker Jennifer Conrad Seidel Photos by Molly McDonald Peterson
the wine industry in virginia is growing. even in
2009, when we were spending our grocery and entertainment dollars more carefully, the sales of Virginia wine rose more than 7 percent—to almost 400,000 cases. That is great news, indeed. But as new wineries open and existing ones grow, the industry faces a new challenge: finding a qualified workforce.
Virginia Is for Winemakers In 2004, administrators from the Workforce Services Program at Piedmont Virginia Community College in Charlottesville collaborated with winemakers and vineyard owners in and around the Monticello Wine Trail to develop plans for what is now two complementary certificate programs: one in viticulture (vineyard management) and one in enology (winemaking). By February 2006, the program had graduated its first class of 15. The program is built on one-day seminars, usually held on Saturdays so that those with full-time jobs can enroll. Taught by winemakers, vineyard managers, winery owners, and business consultants, classes are held at local vineyards. The training is hands-on, not book-based, and topics include everything from blending to marketing, grafting to pruning, tasting to harvesting. Seminars are offered year-round, and the 10 classes required for each certificate are offered each calendar year, so someone could get through the program quickly. Students are not obligated to complete a certificate, however. Among the approximately 400 students who came through the program in 2009 Scott Elliff (above), owner of Madison County’s DuCard Vineyard, teaches students how to prune overgrown grapevines. Those enrolled in this vineyard management class are responsible for a row for a year, from pruning to harvesting.
were hobbyists taking a single class, curious connoisseurs taking tasting classes, and career-focused students determined to complete the whole certificate program.
Recess All the Time Classes are held in the field as the seasons allow. In fact, many classes could not be held anywhere else. A class on blending and another on winery design and equipment are held in winter, when fieldwork is slow. Soil prep and planting are taught in the spring, as is dormant pruning. Summer brings classes on canopy management and pest control. Come fall, students lean about harvesting and bottling. A few classes stretch over both semesters. The custom crush class starts in the fall just before harvest and concludes with bottling in the early summer. What is the literal fruit of such “studying”? Each student brings home four cases of wine. In another two-semester class—vineyard management—students “adopt a row of vines” for a year at DuCard Vineyard in Madison County, where owner Scott Elliff trains them in pruning, thinning, dropping fruit, and overall decision making.
Classes are held in the field as the seasons allow. In fact, many classes could not be held anywhere else. www.flavormags.com
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A few restaurants have also participated in the program. The sommelier at C&O, on Charlottesville’s pedestrian mall, taught a three-session class on pairing wine and food. Siips, a few blocks away, was the venue for a series of weeknight tasting classes focusing on different wine regions across the globe. The Lafayette Inn in Stanardsville hosted a class on home winemaking.
Meet Your Classmates On a sunny Saturday in March, a dozen people gathered at First Colony Winery for a wine marketing seminar taught by Neil Williamson of The Trellis Group. The class included a panel discussion with Martha Soden, general manager of First Colony; Sarah Gorman, business manager of Cardinal Point Vineyard and Winery; and Jim Turpin, founder of Democracy Vineyards and a graduate of the PVCC program. The students present were at different points in their careers—some more likely to own a vineyard than work for one. Recent Virginia Tech graduate Maya Hood White studied theoretical math and physics, but now she finds herself irresistibly drawn to the chemistry of winemaking. Carol Keathley already has a career in marketing, but she is looking to make a lateral move into marketing for Virginia wineries, marrying her training and her love of local wine. After retiring from an international Fortune 100 company, Chas Lawrence is ready to pursue his dream of growing and making wine.
The Dream It’s hard to believe that a young graduate with a degree in math and physics would turn down a job offer from Northrop Grumman in this economy to pursue a career in winemaking. “I was always interested in wine but thought it was unapproachable. I wondered, ‘Who makes wine?’ And then I realized, ‘I can do that!’ When I was offered that job, I realized that I would never return to this path if I took a nice little cubicle job,” said Maya Hood White. “I’ve been taking winemaking classes through U.C. Davis’s distance learning program. The Davis program is focused on California and South America, though, which are very different from Virginia. It’s great as a foundation, but I like the idea of staying and making wine here,” she explained. White, who is interning at Afton Mountain Vineyards, hopes to study enology at Virginia Tech. So in addition to taking about 10 seminars, she is taking chemistry classes at PVCC as well. “I have a real interest in the chemical aspect of making wine—the polymerization of phenols—because no one really knows how that happens. I love that side of it. But I also enjoy making wine. It’s so hands on, and it’s technical but artistic as well.”
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• April/May 2010
The Lateral Move “I know marketing, and I know Virginia wine as a consumer,” said Carol Keathley, a marketing expert and consultant, “but I took this class because I wanted to hear what these people had to say. I want to help the smaller wineries, which don’t have big budgets but are passionate about wine.” She has already worked with Gabrielle Rausse and is organizing an Earth Day service event, with trail clearing and tree planting, at DelFosse Vineyards and Winery. In addition to learning more about marketing in this industry, Keathley hopes to strengthen her understanding of wine through the other classes, too. “I learn the most when I do a vertical tasting or a comparative tasting by varietal,” she explained. “I’ve taken a few tasting classes in the program—beginning tasting, advanced reds, and advanced whites. I am now able to appreciate the different varietals, terroirs, and approaches to winemaking found around the world. “I have a black thumb,” she laughed. “I’m never going to grow grapes. But I can parlay all this knowledge to advance my career.”
The Second Career When Chas Lawrence retired just over two years ago, he asked himself what he wanted to do with the second half of his life. The answer, it turns out, is plant a vineyard and make wine. He worked through the viticulture certificate in just over a year, and is now working on the enology certificate. But unlike most of his classmates, who live in Virginia, Lawrence drives up from Raleigh to participate in the PVCC program. “I’m taking some sustainable agriculture classes closer to home,” he explained, “but there is nothing like this program near me. The one-day format works perfectly.” Lawrence and his wife bought 11 acres of land in the North Carolina mountains in 2002. A small vineyard had already been started on the property, but the previous owner had walked away from it; by the time the Lawrences bought it, it was overrun. But a lot of the hard work had been done: the site had been selected and the infrastructure, including a blacktop road, was in place. They sat on it until he started taking classes at PVCC. “I started these classes and started learning about pruning and spray programs. There’s a wealth of information about grapes here, and it’s more transferable to North Carolina than anything I’d have gotten at U.C. Davis,” he said gratefully. “And it’s more accessible.” He just planted a group of heirloom apples and hopes to make cider as well as wine. “My wife is putting hives in,” he added, “so we may try making mead, too.”
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Full Speed Ahead When Greg Rosko graduated from the program, he had no idea that he’d soon end up as its director. Rosko is an educator by training—he still works for the Charlottesville City Schools—and his experience as a student is quite valuable to him in his current position. He expressed his appreciation for the support the program gets from area vineyards. “The wineries around Charlottesville are wonderful and very generous. We wouldn’t be where we are without them.”
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Program director Greg Rosko (left) was once a student himself. Chas Lawrence (above) has finished one certificate and is well on his way to completing the second, despite his commute from Raleigh, North Carolina.
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Washington, Virginia
540-675-1373
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Jan Hackley Makela
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Asked about how the program is affecting the industry, Rosko pointed out that several graduates, like Democracy’s Turpin, have started their own vineyards. “Out in Free Union,” he added, “Michelle and Jeff Sanders are building a winery.” Other studentowners include Skip and Cindy Causey of Potomac Point Winery and Steven “Kim” Moreno of Neala Vineyards. Rosko also ticked off a list of other students employed in the industry at present, naming assistant winemakers, assistant vineyard managers, tasting room managers, interns, and retail wine associates. DuCard’s Elliff said that participating in the program has helped his business grow. “Based in part on the great word of mouth about the adopt-a-row class and the wines that come out of it, DuCard is expanding production and opening an on-site tasting room for the public.” Rosko hopes to grow the program by adding a chemistry lab course. “It would be great for students to at least be familiar with the chemistry,” he said. “It would provide a good foundation for those who want to enter the industry, no matter what their job title.” He’d also like to offer more classes on the business end of things, like accounting. “Vineyards are farms,” he noted, “and farms have different tax forms than other businesses.” The program recently added a two-year credited apprenticeship in partnership with the state’s department of labor and industry. Two full-time winery employees are currently apprenticing, one in winemaking and the other in vineyard management. PVCC had started to offer classes like those taken by sommeliers-in-training, but enrollment in these seminars wasn’t high enough, most likely due to the recession. (Consuming all that wine gets expensive.) Rosko is hopeful that this decision will be revisited as interest grows and the economy rebounds. Jennifer Conrad Seidel is the editor of Flavor and would probably sign up for a cidermaking class if it were offered.
Piedmont Virginia Community College Charlottesville, VA (434) 961-5354 www.pvcc.edu/workforceservices
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• April/May 2010
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Home sweet brew Evan Williams Photos by Laura Merricks
As craft breweries pop up all over the region and fans get a taste for small-batch beer, homebrewing is taking off.
I
n the heart of Virginia wine country, beer lovers could be forgiven for developing something of an inferiority complex. “Sometimes it just feels like I’m part of the Jamaican bobsled team,” jokes Jamie Barlow, avid homebrewer and co-founder of Charlottesville Area Masters of Real Ale (CAMRA), Charlottesville’s homebrew club. Indeed, in a region where wine dominates the fermented-beverage scene, beer often takes a backseat. But a peek just below the surface tells a different story—one where a thriving craft beer scene and an enthusiastic homebrewing culture are turning central Virginia into a beer geek’s dream.
A Recovered Art When production of alcoholic beverages was outlawed in the 1920s, it set the beer and wine cultures in America back decades. Homebrewing took even longer to recover. When the 21st Amendment repealed prohibition, a federal law was written to permit home winemaking, but due to a clerical error, homebrewing was not included. As a result, it remained illegal until president Jimmy Carter signed a bill repealing its prohibition in 1979. Another lasting effect of Prohibition was the popularity of bland light lagers. Prior to 1920, the style had gained so much popularity that the largest brewing operations were producing little else. When Prohibition was repealed, those same brewing giants were essentially the only acts left standing, and those light lagers became “America’s beer” for much of the following 50 years.
This is the essence of homebrewing— the artistry, the satisfaction that you brewed the beer you’re drinking, and the ability to make whatever strikes your fancy. As a rule, though, Americans can’t sit still for very long, and by the mid-1970s, craft beer was beginning to make a real comeback. Due in large part to iconic beer writers like James Robertson and Michael Jackson (no, not that one) opening eyes stateside to the wide world of beer, and helped immensely by the 1979 bill, great
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varieties, and yeast strains mean that the sky is the limit when you’re crafting your own beer. “I think what draws people in [to homebrewing] varies from person to person. But for me, most of it is that you can make whatever you want,” says Joey Cagle, proprietor of Charlottesville’s newly opened Fifth Season Gardening Co., which sells homebrewing and organic gardening supplies. “You can make something that is just a pleasant beer to drink, or you can make a crazy experimental concoction.”
beer is now an American institution—one in which anyone can participate. With the founding of the American Homebrewers Association in 1978 by homebrewing pioneer Charlie Papazian, a University of Virginia alum and author of The Complete Joy of Homebrewing (which many consider the “homebrewer’s bible”), making beer at home was finally in the mainstream.
To Each His Own As any brewer, professional or amateur, will tell you, making beer is a grand mixture of art and science. Fundamentally, beer is a very simple scientific process in which you extract sugar into water from grains, add hop flowers for flavor and bitterness, and allow yeast to turn that sweet mixture into an alcoholic beverage. Sounds pretty simple, right? On one hand, it is. But on the other hand, it can be as complex as you want it to be. The Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP), the most widely accepted standard for judging beer, publishes 23 style categories of beer, each of which has several substyles. They range from light American lager to Irish red ale, from smoked beer to Russian imperial stout, and they cover every major style of beer in the world. These guidelines are just that, though; the real joy of homebrewing lies in the artistry and creativity that the hobby offers. Dozens of commercially available specialty grains, hop 102
• April/May 2010
This is the essence of homebrewing—the artistry, the satisfaction that you brewed the beer you’re drinking, and the ability to make whatever strikes your fancy. As with most hobbies, the amount of time, money, and dedication invested is up to you, but good beer can be made with minimal equipment. (Complete kits can be purchased for less than $100.) However, as many casual homebrewers often discover, brewing beer is an obsession waiting to take root. Soon, you’ll find yourself tinkering with the process, upgrading equipment, and perfecting recipes —all in the pursuit of great beer!
Flavor Mag_Barrel:Layout 1
Homebrewers can follow recipes or create unique beers by experimenting with endless combinations of ingredients such as hops and malts. (Shown at far left are Cascade pellet and Vanguard leaf hops as well as reddish American wheat malt, Black patent barley malt, and pale American two-row barley malt.) Bottling options, while not endless, are still myriad and include growlers like the one shown below.
DIY & BYOB While brewing is truly a singular pursuit, beer is a social drink, and like other hobbyists, homebrewers thrive when in a community of like-minded enthusiasts. It should come as no surprise, then, that homebrewing brings strangers together under a common banner. Clubs have been popping up all around the country, and Charlottesville is no exception. CAMRA, which was started in 2007, has already reached a membership of 30. Members meet monthly to socialize, share concoctions, and exchange tips and tricks. Fifth Season’s Cagle has witnessed a similar surge since opening his business: “The biggest surprise,” he says, “has been the sheer volume of brewers in Charlottesville.” Judging from the success of CAMRA and Fifth Season, central Virginia has no shortage of homebrewers and beer lovers. CAMRA member Tom Wallace attributes the popularity of homebrewing in Charlottesville to the presence of “the university, the local breweries, beer bars, and an increasing interest in craft beer in general nationwide.” Indeed, while South Street and Starr Hill breweries have been Charlottesville-area stalwarts for years, the recent openings of Blue Mountain and Devils Backbone breweries in Afton have helped turn the area into a beer lover’s destination. Meanwhile, establishments like Beer Run (a beer bar, bottle shop, and restaurant) help fuel local enthusiasm for great beer and food to pair with it. Without a doubt, central Virginia is the place to be if you love making—and drinking—great beer. Homebrewer Evan Williams, a Virginia native who has worked in various facets of the wine industry, is part-owner of the Wine Guild of Charlottesville.
ENHANCED
Find Evan Williams’s instructions for brewing beer at home at flavormags.com.
Charlottesville Area Masters of Real Ale www.cvillebrewing.com Fifth Season Gardening Co. 900 Preston Ave., Charlottesville, VA (434) 293-2332 www.fifthseasongardening.com American Homebrewers Association homebrewersassociation.org Almost 40 AHA-registered clubs can be found across Virginia, D.C., and Mar yland.
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advertiser directory & recipe index ADVERTISER DIRECTORY A Bowl of Good 31
Green Nest 54
R.H. Ballard 67
Acacia 13
Greenway Beef 104
Albemarle Baking Co. 35
Gunpowder Bison & Trading 66
Route 11 Potato Chips back cover
Alpaca Compost 104
The Happy Cook 65
Roy Wheeler Reality 1
American Flatbread 104
Harrisonburg Farmers Market 31
SQN Communications 58
Apple House Catering 24
Sacred Plant Traditions 20
The Ashby Inn and Restaurant 14
Hearthstone School 67
Sara Schneidman Gallery 22
The Ivy Inn Restaurant 14
Backyard Farmer 44
Jefferson Vineyards 74
Serenity Medical Aesthetic Arts 23
Barboursville Vineyards 85
Joshua Wilton House Inn and Restaurant 31
Battletwon Inn 51
Shenandoah Joe Coffee Roasters 35
Asparagus and Bresaola Salad
Pea Shoot Salad with Fresh Herbs
Poste Moderne Brasserie page 28
page 65
Atún con Granada Mas flavormags.com
Cocochas de Halibut with Wild Mushrooms, Farro, Capers & Olives
Prosciutto & Grilled Asparagus Bruschetta page 64
Simply Prepared Mushrooms Clifton Inn page 44
Sorrel Frittata
Slow Food Vast Wine 72
Mas page 34
Smallwood’s Veggieporium 23
Garlic Scape Butter
Staunton Visitor’s Center 53
page 68
page 67
Locke Store 51
Stoneyman Gourmet Farmer 44
Loudoun’s Spring Farm Tour 100
Grilled Harissa Rockfish with Gingered Beets
Strawberry Thyme Sorbet
Sugarleaf Vineyards 74 Suites at 249 54
page 66
Loulies.com 60
Sunset Hills Vineyards 78 Takoma Park Silver Spring Co-coperative 57
Heirloom Tomato Salad
Blenheim Vineyards 81
Margaret O. Sanders Landscape Design 23
Bloomin’ Wine Festival 93
Market Street Wineshop 83
Tarara Winery 79
Blue Ridge Meats 25
Mas 45
Thornton River Grille 40
Brannock Built 22
MJM Photography 98
Three Fox Vineyards 14
Bread & Brew 29
Mom’s Organic Market inside back cover
Toigo Orchards 17
Mom’s Apple Pie inside front cover
Triple Oak Bakery 104
Belle Meade Farm, School & B&B 3
King Family Vineyards 12
Belmont Butchery 64
The Local 100
Benefit for Rappahannock Food Pantry 62
The Local Flavor 17
The Big Bad Woof 57 Bistro Bethem 14 Blandy State Arboretum of Virginia 51
Butcher’s Block Market 49 Camino Restaurant 16 Carter & Spence 11 Catoctin Creek Distilling Company 85 Central Coffee Roasters 70 Chesapeake Bay Distillery 95 Chiusano Italian Table 54 Claire’s at the Depot 80 Clarke County Historical Association 51 Cowgirl Creamery 9 Culpeper Chamber of Commerce 54 Delaplane Cellars 87 Delfosse Vineyards & Winery 85 Drink Local Wine Conference 39 Edible Landscaping 61 Element Bar and Bistro 24 Ellwood Thompson’s Local Market 10 The Farm at Sunnyside 67 Fleurir Hand - Grown Chocolates 19 The Food and Wine Festival At National Harbor 2
L’Auberge Provencale 51
Mona Lisa Pasta 18 Montpelier Wine Festival 79 Mount Vernon Farm 16 Mount Welby 56 Mountain Laurel Montessori School 19 Mountain Massage 24 Narmada Winery 14 National Capital Farms 9 National Geographic - Green Guide Families 21
Park Hyatt Masters of Food & Wine Tour of the World 41 Paul Harris Tree Services 58 Rappahannock Cellars 12 Rappahannock Plant Sale 64 Real Estate III 99
Frenchman’s Corner 18
Red Truck Bakery & Market 20
Funk Brothers Furniture 21 Glen Manor Vineyards 24
The Restaurant At Patowmack Farm 42
Golden Blend Barbeque 24
• april/may 2010
Diablo Blanco Alex Bookless, The Passenger page 84
The District Alex Bookless, The Passenger page 84
Veritas Vineyard & Winery 12 Vine Ripe Farm 22 Vino e Formaggio 24 Vintage 50 & Vintage 51 49
Spring Carrot Mash
page 69
I Have Too Much Thyme on My Hands Right Now at This Point in My Life Todd Thrasher page 78
Public Enemy #2 Alex Bookless, The Passenger page 84
Tuscarora Organic Growers Co-op 29 Valley Earth Fest 51
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Poste Moderne Brasserie flavormags.com
Tuscarora Mill 71
GREENWAY BEEF GREENWAY BEEF GREENWAY Premium Grass FedBEEF Meat Premium Grass Fed Fed Meat Premium Grass Meat
Wood-Fired Pizza
Virginia Truffle Growers 81
Warrenton Wine & Arts Festival 14
The Orlean Store & Restaurant 83
The Red Fox Inn 72
Front Royal Visitor’s Center 25
Turkey Hill Stables 61
Occasions Caterers 73
Fountain Hall Bed & Breakfast 54
Froggy Spring Farm 104
True and Essential Meats 18
Visit Loudoun 76
Foti’s Restaurant 19
Freshfarm Markets 69
Trickling Springs Creamery 42
National Geographic - True Food 65
Rebecca’s Natural Foods 68
Food Matters 79
104
Shenandoah Growers 9
RECIPE INDEX
WMRA/NPR 7
Wasmunds Whisky 103 White Hall Vineyards 80 Whole Foods 42 The Wine Kitchen 78 Zynodoa Restaurant 13
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GPS Coordinates: Latitude: N38.71968 Longitude: W78.66240