Flavour Magazine (May Issue) by Flavour Magazine

Hall & Who? Hall & Who? Hall & Who?

Here’s When Bath gets the restaurant it deserves and the bar it’s been longing for. Here’s When style and sophistication really come to town.

Opens Early June, Old King Street, Bath. www.hall-woodhousebath.co.uk

Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com Editorial Assistant: Faye Allen Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com

Advertising: Miranda Coller Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Misha Gupta James Walker Contributors: Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nathan Budd, Helen Aurelius-Haddock, Sarah Hurn, Rebecca Gooch, Great Western Wine, Mark Tyrie and Lucie Wood. Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Please send any comments or suggestions to the publisher at the above address. For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com

welcome Welcome to the May issue of flavour!

Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com

For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com

I'm sure I’m not alone in saying that I simply can't get enough of the new Sophie Dahl series – never since Nigella Lawson has cooking been so seductive. The girl certainly has a knack for adding a generous spoonful of elegance to the most simple of dishes, not to mention a smile capable of making even butter melt! As Roald Dahl’s granddaughter (and the inspiration for the BFG), her lineage alone also makes her a natural storyteller, so we caught up with her on PAGE 27 to hear her musings on life (and food!) in New York.

© Copyright 2010 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Please recycle this product.

May of course wouldn't be May without the mad dash for British asparagus. Because it's a naturally grown crop in the notoriously fickle British climate, the season lasts just two months. Its versatility means it’s one of the season's most sought-after ingredients, so whether you like it pan-fried in salted butter, wrapped in Parma ham or diced and added to a creamy risotto, turn to PAGE 46 and add another delicious recipe to your repertoire.

contents 8 In Season Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash bring you the best of the season's produce 20 WIN! Tickets to the BBC Summer Good Food Show! 27 Sophie Dahl Musings from the new Nigella 30 Bath and West Show The biggest event in the rural calendar returns

British summertime is fast becoming as short as the asparagus season, so there's no time like the present to make the most of the finer weather. The South West's festival season kicks off this month with the Eco Veggie Fayre (PAGE 22) and the Royal Bath and West Show (PAGE 30), both of which promise an action-packed timetable with plenty to do, see and most importantly, sample! If it's low impact you're after however, have a look on PAGE 52 at some of our favourite sun traps for al fresco dining. We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we enjoyed making it.

46 Asparagus Gather ye spearheads while ye may! Happy Eating! Holly Aurelius-Haddock. 3

> flavour

news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

DEMUTHS Just a stone’s throw from Bath Abbey, Demuths Vegetarian Restaurant is best known for its exciting world menu. Their individual style combining flavours, colours and textures has been earning this busy little restaurant a strong following over the 21 years it has been trading. Their hard work, passion and loyal customer base are testament to their recent award-winning achievements. Named ‘Best Vegetarian Restaurant’ by Gourmet Britain Awards 2010 as well as ‘Best Vegan Restaurant Award 2009’ from the Vegan Society makes this the top choice in meat-free dining. Tel: 01225 446059 Visit: www.vegetariancookeryschool.com

this month AN EVENING WITH MICHAEL CAINES MBE Michael Caines MBE, Executive Head Chef of The Bath Priory (and sister hotel Gidleigh Park where he holds two Michelin stars) invites you to come and enjoy this exclusive evening, with one of his fabulous menus, accompanied by matching wines. Michael will be introducing each course and talking about the different components, fresh local ingredients and exciting flavours that combine to produce his truly inspirational cuisine. Tuesday 22nd June, £125.00 per person www.thebathpriory.co.uk

KITCHEN DELIGHTS The Clifton Kitchen is set to make a big impression on discerning diners when it opens on Princess Victoria Street on May 7. The location itself is hallowed turf for foodies as it was originally the site of Keith Floyd’s Bistro and more recently Dine2. Former Severnshed head chef Gavin Lewis will be serving an imaginative, modern British menu with seasonal ingredients and local produce fairly priced for families and friends to enjoy a treat. Owner Richard Marques-Jones comments: “Our focus is on giving our customers a sociable and relaxed place to enjoy really good food, great Sunday roasts and unhurried, friendly service backed-up by total professionalism behind the scenes.” Clifton Kitchen, 112 Princess Victoria Street, Clifton, BS8 4DB. Tel: 0117 946 7870

WINNERS Congratulations to Daniel Butcher from Bristol who wins a case of Orchard Pig Cider!

> flavour

news

NEW MENU AT THE WHEATSHEAF COMBE HAY

CIDER FEST AND HOG ROAST The Cork is playing host to a ‘Cider Fest’ on Saturday 29th May. Starting at 12 noon there will be guest ciders from local cider producer Orchard Pig and to help soak it all up there will be hog roast for revellers to feast on! The premium Orchard Pig ciders are made from a mix of over ten varieties of apples, harvested from unsprayed and naturally maintained orchards. Pear cider will also be on offer as well as a variety of wines, ales, cocktails and non-alcoholic drinks. Comprising of two bars, a conservatory and a large al fresco terrace area, this is the perfect spot to celebrate the revoking of Alistair Darling’s cider tax. T: 01225 333 582 W: www.thecork.co.uk

Celebrated chef Lee Evans has prepared a terrific new summer menu celebrating the best of British seasonal produce including Wye Valley asparagus, seared Lulworth scallops and new season lamb as well as day boat fish specials. You will also find the good old pub favourites such as beer battered fish, hand cut chips and mushy peas. So whether you enjoy a pint and a packet of crisps or fancy a tasty meal in the bar or the beautiful garden, head along to The Wheatsheaf Combe Hay for top notch food and great value for money. Open Bank Holiday Monday 31st May 2010. Tel: 01225 833504 Visit: www.wheatsheafcombehay.com

COMING UP AT WHATLEY MANOR Whatley Manor, a beautifully restored private manor house hotel set amidst 12 acres of Wiltshire countryside is offering a myriad selection of seasonal events and inspirational reasons to get out in the local countryside and welcome the start of spring.

Sunday Cinema Screenings

HALL AND WOODHOUSE Opening 26th May, Hall and Woodhouse will be offering warm hospitality as well as award-winning ales to the customers of Bath. Trading over three floors, it promises to feature a lived-in and relaxed country house atmosphere, generous hospitality and fabulous cooking with a pinch of British eccentricity! www.hall-woodhouse.co.uk

ENGLISH WINE WEEK 29TH MAY – SUNDAY 6TH JUNE With 800 hectares under vine and only 300 growers producing a little over two million bottles a year, the scale of English wine production may be small, but its growing reputation now places it alongside some of the best examples that our European neighbours have to offer. To celebrate our wine producers’ sparkling efforts, why not take part in the nationwide English Wine Week? Over the course of the week, the UK wine industry are taking the opportunity to highlight English wines to the wine buying public, through special events, tastings, offers and other activities.

The new season of films is set to while away the lazy Sunday afternoon and evenings throughout the spring and summer starting with ‘Last Chance Harvey’ on 23rd May, ‘Sherlock Holmes’ on 27th June, ‘An Education’ on 25th July, ‘Nine’ on 15th August, ‘Robin Hood’ on 26th September, ‘Julie & Julia’ on 31st October and ‘The Back-Up Plan’ on 28th November. Costs £38 per person including three course lunch or dinner, the film and popcorn.

Spring Bank Holiday 28th – 31st May Late spring is the perfect time to admire the gardens at Whatley Manor and appreciate the natural surroundings in which they are set. During a three-night stay there is also time to restore the equilibrium by booking a session of Tai Chi, which can be experienced in The Loggia Garden (weather permitting). Enjoy a three-night stay arriving either on the 28th, 29th and 30th May costing from £295 per room including full English breakfast and full use of the spa facilities. Thai chi may be arranged from £65 for a 60 min session. For a full events listing, please call 01666 822888 or visit www.whatleymanor.com

Visit www.englishwineweek.co.uk for more information and a list of events that are taking place in your area. 5

Cut me out and keep me!

COURGETTE

MINT

The courgette is actually a summer squash, but similar to its winter counterpart, often gets overcooked which can spoil the wonderful flavour. They are at their best when they are firm to the touch with a glossy but slightly rough surface. Courgettes with soft or dark patches will have been bruised and are best avoided. They will store well in the fridge for four or five days especially if covered. They are a great addition to pasta dishes when peeled lengthways into long thin ribbons or in salads. If you can grow your own make use of the beautiful flowers by stuffing them and frying them with a nice oozey cheese for something a little different.

Mint must be one of the boldest of the herbs. It will grow in almost all conditions and types of soil often at the expense of everything else if you’re not careful. It will be one of the first to appear in your herb patch too and don’t be afraid to use it right away. It’s a great herb to use in all sorts of salads and puddings as well as the classic accompaniment to lamb. This is certainly true as salads start to replace heavier veggie dishes when the BBQs are dusted off. Try tossing plenty into a big bowl of garden peas with a bit of olive oil, feta cheese and plenty of salt and pepper. Spearmint is the most commonly grown garden herb and one of the most versatile of the mint family. It is best to keep it, once picked, stems down in a jar of water in the fridge for a couple of days before the leaves start to wilt.

May Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about the season's best produce.

ELDERFLOWERS

ASPARAGUS

As the weather starts to warm and the surrounding countryside starts to fill with colour once again, one wild flower worth seeking out is the elderflower. Towards the end of May the elder tree starts to blossom yielding its elderberries as well as the extremely sought after creamy yellow flowers. Elder trees are fairly widespread around Britain so with a bit of luck you should be able to find some. The flowers are best used as a flavouring and are most commonly used to make summer cordials as well as champagne for those looking for a bit more of a punch. The flowers should never be eaten raw, as like elderberries, they are mildly poisonous so it’s well advised to use them only in cooking! Elderflowers are in season from late May to July. Be sure to stockpile your elderflower cordials. You don’t have long to savour this flower!

A vegetable with a serious celebrity profile. It may be because of the relatively short season running from May to June that makes this plant so popular but it is hard to deny the unique flavour and texture that it has too. We have a countdown on our farm shop until asparagus season just to make sure no one misses out as it is a bit of a “blink and you’ll miss it” veg. To add to that, the fact that British grown asparagus, in my completely unbiased opinion, is the finest in the world, makes it easy to see why such excitement surrounds it. When buying look for firm stalks but tender at the tips with good deep colour. It is not a vegetable that stores well so it’s best to eat on the day of purchase. A good tip is to store it with a damp tea towel around the stems in the fridge. When preparing snap the woodier part of the stem off before cooking. There are numerous fantastic ways to eat asparagus but my favourite is lightly steamed and served with a bit of butter, some salty parmesan shavings and a poached egg – unoriginal but rarely beaten!

LEMON, MINT AND CHICKPEA COUSCOUS Serves 4

Place 200g couscous, 50ml lemon juice and 60ml olive oil in a bowl and mix together. Bring the vegetable stock to the boil and immediately pour over the couscous giving it a good stir, cover the bowl with cling film and allow steaming for 10 minutes. Uncover the couscous break it up with a fork, and then fold through the 10 shredded mint leaves and 100g cooked chickpeas, season with salt and white pepper to taste. Serve warm or allow cooling for salad.

SAUTÉED COURGETTES, BLACK OLIVES AND TOASTED FENNEL SEEDS Serves 4

Heat the pan, pour in a glug of olive oil and sauté 2 medium sliced courgettes. When they are nearly cooked and nicely coloured, add 200g pitted Kalamata olives and 12g toasted fennel seeds. Continue to cook for a minute then remove from the heat, season with cracked black pepper and rock salt, finally add ½ bunch chopped marjoram leaves and toss together. Drain and serve – a great accompaniment to fish.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Stuart Ash, head chef at Woods Restaurant, gives you a few ideas on how to cook up the fantastic ingredients that are abundant at this time of year.

SALAD OF ASPARAGUS, GRILLED AUBERGINE AND PECORINO CHEESE Serves 4

Slice 1 aubergine in 1cm thick slices and place on a tray, lightly salt both sides and leave to stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile peel the tougher ends of 20 large asparagus spears and blanch in rapidly boiling salted water for 1 minute, then refresh in ice water. Next pat your aubergine dry and grill both sides with a generous covering of olive oil. When they are nicely coloured on both sides allow draining. In a salad bowl combine the aubergines sliced in half, the asparagus spears and ½ bunch chopped coriander, mix with the juice of 1 lemon, a large splash of olive oil and salt to taste, lastly arrange 120g pecorino shavings on the top.

ELDERFLOWER, LIME AND PEACH SOUP Serves 4

Bring 300ml water to the boil and pour it over 8 elderflower heads, cover and leave until completely cooled (or overnight). Strain the liquid through a muslin cloth and pour into a pan, add 300g sugar and gently bring to the boil, put in the zest and juice of 1 lime and 1 cinnamon stick and simmer for 20 minutes. Pass and allow cooling. Blanch 5 ripe peaches in boiling water and refresh to remove the skins, place the flesh of the peaches in a blender discarding the stones, and gradually add the elderflower stock syrup until a soup consistency is obtained. Chill and serve on its own or with sorbet.

> flavour

fab foodie reads

fab foodie reads For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

SEA FISHING: RIVER COTTAGE HANDBOOK NO.6 NICK FISHER Bloomsbury Publishing £14.99

HESTON’S FANTASTICAL FEASTS HESTON BLUMENTHAL Bloomsbury Publishing £25

From renowned fishing expert Nick Fisher comes a concise and beautifully illustrated guide to fishing in UK streams, rivers and shores and best of all, it does not require hours of fishing experience to be able to understand your carp from your cod! Nick covers all the basics, such as when and where to go fishing as well as profiles of the fish you are likely to catch. He gets nittier and grittier with a guide to equipment and accessories and provides step-by-step advice on techniques. You can reward your hard work from the 30 delicious recipes by River Cottage showing you the best way to cook your catch.

Heston’s new book ‘Fantastical Feasts’ is the cookbook that accompanies his highly acclaimed TV programme and this really is a little bit different. The Heston we all know and love is not one to accept the ordinary without a fantastical twist and true to form, this is what you are to expect in his new venture. These dishes take influence from history, fairytales and legends and journeys to Transylvania and the Black Forest are just one such eample of the mind-blowing treats Heston has in store. With incredible ingredients, revolutionary techniques and familiar appliances put to unfamiliar uses, Heston lets us into a complete and unparalleled fantastical foodie world.

FUNKY LUNCH MARK NORTHEAST

INDIAN SUPERFOOD GURPAREET BAINS

Absolute Press £7.99

Absolute Press £12.99

Children across the south-west will be breathing a sigh of relief as their chief sandwich and packed-lunch makers can banish the slightly soggy cheese and pickle sarnies and get creative with Mark Northeast’s new ‘Funky Lunch.’ Recognised by the world’s media, Mark has revolutionised ordinary lunchtimes into something more extraordinary to encourage children to eat a varied and healthy lunch. The book features fifty of the very best Funky Lunch sandwich ideas – from simple farmyard creatures to children’s favourite TV characters. Children are also encouraged to chose and make their own lunch with creative interactive spreads. Definitely a must-have for all the sandwich makers out there!

Nutritionist Gurpareet Bains aims to convert one and all to the impressive possibilities of his new healthfood phenomenon found within the pages of his new cookbook, ‘Indian Superfood.’ Recognising the exceptional health-promoting properties of foods from simple spices through to berries, fruits and vegetables, Gurpareet sets out to inform us about how each recipe in this wonderful collection – via high antioxidant levels, cardiovascular health benefits and a myriad of curative properties – will help to improve our health and wellbeing. This book is set to establish itself as the health food craze of 2010.

> flavour

loves...

Capreolus Fine Foods Capreolus Fine Foods is a small, artisan smokehouse based in Rampisham in West Dorset. Capreolus, run by David and Karen Richards, specialises in curing and smoking wild and free-range meat sourced from the locality. Their coldsmoked products include venison, beef and mutton and their smoke-roasted products are chicken and duck breast. Be sure to sample their delicious drycured Black Strap molasses bacon. Tel: 01935 83883 Visit: www.capreolusfinefoods.co.uk

Algo Mas A stunning range of hand painted terracotta tableware produced by a small family run business in Italy. They look great when mixed together with the range of hand blown or etched glass tumblers all of which are ethically produced. Great for relaxed al fresco dining whilst the sun shines! Prices range from £20 for a dinner plate to £10 for a beautiful etched glass tumbler.

s e oL v

Visit: www.algomas.co.uk

flavour THIS MONTH’S MUST DO, BUY & SEE...

Pullins Bakers

If you’re a lover of true artisan bread, pencil in a number of dates this summer to see award-winning family craft bakery, Pullins from Somerset. They’ll be exhibiting at The Real Food Festival at Earls Court in May, Cheltenham Food Festival in June and Bath Food Festival in July. Tel: 01934 832135 Visit: www.pullinsbakers.co.uk Tweet: pullins_bakers

The Sausage Shed Lovingly handmade in Stembridge, The Sausage Shed are purveyors of the finest pork sausages, cuts and joints in Somerset. With delicious flavours to chose from such as pork with Burrow Hill cider and mustard as well as pork with balsamic vinegar, you’re bound to find something just a little bit different to serve with your favourite mash. Order online today. Tel: 01460 249479 Visit: www.thesausageshed.co.uk 10

Chocolate Blush From fresh cream truffles to alphabet biscuits, printed chocolate and bespoke wrappers, this is chocolate to get excited about. These handmade luxury chocolates are made with no additives or preservatives using a pureBelgian chocolate with no added vegetable fat or oil. Chocolate Blush produces chocolates with personality, individuality and style that promise to awaken your body, soul and tastebuds. Tel: 01753 510474 Visit: www.chocolateblush.co.uk Tweet: chocolateblush

> flavour

loves...

The Old Watch House Championed by great foodies such as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Clarissa Dickson-Wright and Mark Hix, The Old Watch House provides delicious and locally sourced fresh fish daily. Their seafront shop is ideally situated along the Cobb Harbour in Lyme Regis and keeps the dying tradition of fishmongery alive within the local community.

Café de Paris Butters For exquisite recipes created in moments, try this delicious and brand new gourmet herb butter from Café de Paris. Expert and amateur chefs can utilise this tasty and versatile, herb enriched butter to create effortless, mouth-watering meals in minutes.

Tel: 01297 444205 Visit: www.theoldwatchhouse.com

Tel: 01761 221989/07745 442385 Visit: www.cafedeparisbutters.co.uk

Winterwood and Eggcups Winterwood is a small company based in the West Country with a reputation for providing ‘something different’, which encompasses beauty with practicality. They specialise in making beautiful and original English hardwood cheeseboards. Each of these boards is lovingly handcrafted from the finest wood from sustainable woodlands in Mid Devon. Eggcups and chopping boards are also available. Tel: 01392 860346 Visit: www.winterwoodboards.com

Flavours of Spain Flavours of Spain specialises in sourcing Spain’s most prized foods and ingredients, direct from small and artisan producers, with an emphasis on the freshest, seasonal ingredients, sustainability and organic production methods. Flavours of Spain are working with some of the UK’s best chefs and restaurants including The Fat Duck in Bray. You can visit them online, at Borough Market and the Real Food Festival in May. Tel: 0870 330 2879 Visit: www.flavoursofspain.co.uk

C COELIALY! FRIEND

Table B’hôte Table B’hôte’s delightful cooking sauces are certified gluten-free made, with no additives, colours, or flavourings and are even suitable for vegetarians. Each large jar is packed with steam cooked chunky vegetables and blended with special spices for an incredible home cooked taste. Quality is guaranteed so we're certain you will find the taste irresistible! Tel: 01872 573656 Visit: www.tablebhote.co.uk Tweet: tablebhotesauce

> flavour

the dorchester

Following the success of this year’s Masterchef series, we talked to The Dorchester’s Executive Head Chef Jocelyn Herland about making it in the business, and what it’s like working under a man with 19 Michelin stars to his name...

Jocelyn Herland How did you enter the catering industry? I started my training in a big brasserie in Paris and shortly afterwards I went to a big hotel where there was a two star Michelin restaurant called Le Clos l’Enfant. I then spent some time at Le Doyen – another two star Michelin – before starting work for Mr. [Alain] Ducasse at Le Relais du Parc. I started under Mr. Ducasse as a commis and slowly grew within his team. So you were working at Michelin star level from very early on? Yes but the time I spent in the brasserie as a pastry chef was very valuable. I think it’s crucial when you’re training as a young chef to do the basic things in different parts of the business. I also spent time as a waiter which was so important. You need to respect both the pressures of the front of house and the kitchen; I learnt that it’s difficult to work in the dining room because you have direct contact with guests and you need to keep smiling and deal with complaints – it’s easy for a chef to forget that sometimes. Is it normal to take a step down when entering that calibre of kitchen for the first time?

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Park Lane London W1K 1QA Tel: 0207 629 8866 Visit: www.alainducasse-dorchester.com 12

It totally depends on the personality of the person involved. Some people start work in a kitchen and they’re so passionate and so interested in different ways to cook, taking their knowledge from everywhere, that it doesn’t matter if they’ve previously cooked in a gastronomic restaurant. Having said that, you are taught a lot in these restaurants about the precision and detail of the food you’re cooking with, so overall

there’s a knowledge in these restaurants that you don’t often see elsewhere. Did you train formally or just learn on the job? I did a kind of apprenticeship where I spent one week in college and two weeks in a restaurant. I knew from early on that I wanted to go into the hospitality industry but I didn’t really fix on the idea of becoming a chef until I was 19. From a young age, the thing I loved most about cooking was the moment you share with people. When I was eight, I can remember watching my mother, grandmother and grandfather cooking for the family, they would give me little jobs to do and I would take such pleasure in helping them. Were your family interested in food? Although none of them do it as a profession, they all love it as a hobby. My grandmother would make meatballs with rose veal and I can still remember the taste of the herbs and the vegetables in the dish. My grandfather’s speciality on the other hand was his yule log that he would make at Christmas time. The pleasure that we all took in these dishes has really stayed with me. Why did you choose to relocate to London? I think it’s a proposition that very few chefs would turn down. I had been to the UK for a short holiday in the past but really I was walking into the unknown. I loved the buzz of Paris and was told that London was similar in that way.

> flavour

the dorchester

best pigeon producers because whatever I do with it afterwards, that’s what will make the dish truly successful. When you have the produce, you start to work. Respect the seasons too; in Mr. Ducasse’s cuisine there are a lot of vegetables so we make sure the quality of them is equal to the fish or fois gras they accompany. Tell us about your involvement in this year’s Masterchef series...

Jocelyn works closely with boss and 19 Michelin star chef Alain Ducasse (pictured left)

I wasn’t surprised that Dhruv went on to win the Masterchef title – after the work he did with us during the day, it was well deserved...

It was great to be involved in something like that for the first time. Alain Ducasse is not really keen on television because he’s not naturally a showman, but he wanted to get involved this year because he found the idea interesting. What struck me most was the level of the guys who came into the kitchen. I wasn’t surprised that Dhruv went on to win the Masterchef title – after the work he did with us during the day, it was well deserved. I think with so much media attention food is now something that everyone takes much more of an interest in, which is why the level of untrained talent is growing so rapidly. Is the restaurant industry much different in Paris to London?

So upon taking up the role of Executive Chef of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, it became your job to interpret his style of cooking? We work together closely in creating the menus; he comes here once a month and we speak in depth about the food. When I think about creating a dish he’ll sample it, and when I think about putting on a dish that I’ve done previously, we’ll work on adapting it and bringing it in line with current trends. We get on well and he gives me a lot of advice – he travels a lot and

shares the knowledge he picks up in those countries. He likes to get straight to the point, but he’s a good listener too, he understands and expects you to know the guests better than he ever will, so you are best placed to tell him whether certain ideas and dishes will work for the clientèle. How do you go about creating a new dish? If I’m going to create a new dish, first and foremost I need to understand the produce that I’m working with. For example if I want to work with pigeon, I need to seek out the

Guests are certainly more open minded in London – whether they go to a fine dining restaurant or a bistro, they go in the same way. In Paris it’s a bit more conservative, and people are less likely to try high end restaurants if it’s not something which they’ve always done. Similarly from an outsider’s perspective French cuisine is very classical, though our story is growing nonetheless and there are a lot of talented young chefs who respect tradition, but are also really pushing things forward at the same time. 13

Celebrating 30 years of Woods PARTY IN THE CITY COMES TO WOODS

SEAFOOD EXTRAVAGANZA

Friday 28th May 2010 The Jazz Band “Loose Caboose” will be playing in Woods Two course dinner @ £10 & a la carte

Tuesday 22nd June to Friday 25th June & Tuesday 29th June to Friday 2nd July Two weeks of a selection of mussels, clams, oysters, Langoustines, sole, sea bass, bream, lobster.... (depending of market availability) 48 hours’ notice for lobster

BAD TASTE AT WOODS, BATH FRINGE 2010 Wednesday 9th June 2010 Thursday 10th June 2010 featuring “Bill Smarme & The Bizness” £35 in main dining room Champagne Cocktail, three course dinner half a bottle of house wine per person Dress BAD TASTE (£30 in bar or private room)

ROYAL ASCOT LADIES’ DAY

WIMBLEDON AT WOODS 21st June to 4th July Pimms, cocktail, strawberries & cream

ENGLAND V SLOVENIA Wednesday 23rd June 3pm Bangers & Mash £7.50 BBC coverage

Thursday 17th June 12 noon start £25 per person – Three course lunch BBC coverage

Reservation only and pre payment Enquiries and reservation on Woods 01225 314812 claude@woodsrestaurant.fsnet.co.uk

> flavour

riverford

chop and chat Never afraid to get their hands dirty, Riverford Organic has decided to turn up the heat on organic vegetables by offering free cookery demos in the home to new customers. For the last 15 years Riverford has been delivering its award winning organic veg boxes to homes throughout the West Country. Today, it has become an almost nationwide business with local farms in other regions serving customers all over the country. In Avon and Somerset the veg still comes from the original farm near Buckfastleigh and is delivered by local vegmen Nick Riley in Bristol and Liz and Gil McPherson in Bath and North Somerset. Riverford has always had a tradition of encouraging customers to be creative with the vegetables they order, providing recipes every week and publishing award winning cookery books. Now they have employed a virtual army of professional cooks and launched Chop and Chat a novel concept which sees professional cooks going into people's home with the aim of inspiring them to cook from fresh local ingredients. These free Chop and Chat events can get you back into tasty, healthy, home-cooking for the whole family. Anyone can host an event in their home, village hall or community centre. You provide the venue and invite guests, Riverford provide the cook with the know-how and all the ingredients. Guests are encouraged to join in helping the Riverford Cook peel, chop

and prepare mouthwatering recipes using ingredients from one of Riverford’s organic vegetable boxes. Or they can simply watch and be inspired. Every guest gets to enjoy the lovely dishes prepared for lunch or supper. And, it's not surprising that after tasting great organic produce many guests decide to order their own regular delivery of a vegetable or fruit box. These customers get a complimentary copy of the Riverford Cook Book that Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall describes as “super”, to further inspire them to cook seasonally. The ‘Chop and Chat’ events are available to new and existing customers as Liz McPherson explains: “We are holding these lunches and suppers all over the country and they are creating a real buzz. Initially it was a great way for existing customers to introduce a few friends to the idea of veg box deliveries and encourage people to look at organic vegetables as versatile, reasonably priced ingredients. Now Chop and Chat is open to prospective new customers, foodies or anyone with a desire to share food ideas and learn delicious new recipes”.

For more information on the ‘Chop and Chat Lunches’ or about the organic fruit and Veg Box Scheme, simply visit www.riverford.co.uk or call Nick Riley on 0117 982 1006 for Bristol or Liz McPherson on 08456 800 918 for Bath and North Somerset.

.ESTON 0ARK &ARM 3HOP 4HE VERY BEST LOCAL AND ORGANIC FOODS

#OME ALONG TO OUR FREE CHEESE WINE TASTING DAY ON TH -AY #HEESES FROM 3IMON 7EAVER /RGANICS FROM AM PM 7INE TASTING FROM 'REAT 7ESTERN 7INE AM PM 'REAT WINES TO COMPLIMENT SOME FANTASTIC CHEESES

""1gS EVERY WEEKEND THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER WEATHER DEPENDING

-ANY MORE EVENTS PLEASE LOOK AT OUR WEBSITE FOR FURTHER INFORMATION

.EWLY EXTENDED CAFE /RGANICALLY REARED MEAT FROM THE .ESTON 0ARK %STATE

&INEST DELI WITH VARIETY OF LOCAL AND ORGANIC CHEESES MEATS AND ANTIPASTI

7IDE SELECTION OF ARTISAN BREADS .ESTON 0ARK &ARM 3HOP -EAT "OXES DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR

&REE NATURE TRAIL PLAY AREA AND ANIMALS FOR CHILDREN

/PEN -ONDAY TO 3ATURDAY AM PM 3UNDAY AM PM &OR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT .ESTON 0ARK &ARM 3HOP ON .ESTON 0ARK &ARM 3HOP ,TD "ATH 2D !TWORTH 3. (0 WWW NESTONPARKFARMSHOP COM 7E ALSO HAVE A SHOP IN "RADFORD ON !VON n 4HE #HEESE "OARD A 3ILVER 3TREET

(XURSHDQ $JULFXOWXUDO )XQG IRU 5XUDO 'HYHORSPHQW (XURSH LQYHVWLQJ LQ UXUDO DUHDV

> flavour

columnist martin blunos

This month Martin Blunos comes gently down to earth after filming an exciting new series for Channel 4 and makes the most of the season’s long-awaited produce…

ALLEZ CUISINEZ! By now I expect that you’ve all seen Iron Chef UK on Channel 4 and hopefully you all love the show. Believe me it really is that frantic and yes, like most chefs that ‘glow’ when all hot and bothered, my make-up did run a tad. Nothing that the flick of a Mac brush and the dab of a Kleenex couldn’t sort. Haven’t you noticed how all that foundation plays havoc with your pores? I’ve found that a good cleansing regime and rehydrating at night helps! It’s all been a bit of a whirlwind for me post recording the series, lots of interview stuff and promotion. Whether that’s been from the kitchen table, at home, via the World Wide Web, filling in Qs and As on the computer for a distant publication to cooking a couple of my Iron Chef dishes on the top deck of a private yacht for TV execs in Cannes. There is already talk of a second series which I can’t wait for. So with all this hard work and the bad complexion it’s nice to kick back when the opportunity arises to recharge and relax. The fine weather has meant it’s been a blast to get out and about around Bath in more fetching attire than a sou’wester and

waders. I’ve been casting my beady eye over the nettles that are now growing like crazy and the spring freebie of wild garlic is sprouting up everywhere and is already making the annual appearance on the menus. The late start to spring, as we know it, has meant hanging around for the garlic and asparagus but blimey it’s been worth the wait. Absence makes the heart grow fonder, and when it concerns food, the stomach more so. Some of you may have tried to satisfy those cravings with Mexican asparagus in February for example but honestly what’s the point? Back to the grindstone and its going to be another mad month – organising the end of season dinner at Bristol City FC, demos at Grand Designs show in London, Bath Coffee Festival, taking over the galley on a cruise ship to St. Petersburg and, of course, the day job. Will be back next edition with more food and makeup tips, but until then, in the words of the Chairman – “Allez Cuisinez!”

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and bought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than fifteen years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as Guest Chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 17

> flavour

lumière

lumière With the stern message of locally-sourced and sustainable food resonating around the West Country hills, Jennie Clark visited Lumière, Cheltenham’s brightest restaurant, and found out just how much fun it can be... It’s rare to find a restaurant these days that doesn’t partially rely on a rustic decor to convince the diner of the same authenticity in its cuisine. No such conformity for the lilac-bathed Lumière in Cheltenham’s town centre. The restaurant is stylish and tranquil, with its streak of colour betraying a hint of audacity.

carrot and anise purée and cumin caramel. I’m easily pleased by a sweet seared scallop but the fragrant star anise added to the classic sweet and salted accompaniments was a fascinating pleasure. It’s no surprise, as we were told later, this dish is so popular with customers it’s one thing Jon and Helen dare not take off the menu.

The purple theme led playfully into the food – sitting down we had to smile when presented with spicy popcorn and violet potato crisps.

Then an immaculately presented slice of rabbit ballontine with a stripe of pear purée, foie gras parfait, and a buttery and crumbling chive brioche. This was followed by a meaty fillet of brill with morels, asparagus and cep foam. There was a boldness in the combination of subtle fish with the rich earthy foam that defied any doubts we might have foreseen reading it on a menu beforehand.

We opted for the tasting menu (£55). The diner is not offered a list of the seven dishes, but instead receives a series of mystery dishes. The wine list is made up of carefully chosen bottles from trusted merchants, and the description of a ‘full throttle, voluptuous wine’ with ‘spice, rose petal, wild honey and lychees’ led us to the French Gewürztraminer (£33). It didn’t disappoint and offered complex and elaborate nuances alongside the stream of dishes.

Lumière Clarence Parade Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL50

First up was a little glass cup of peppery Gloucestershire watercress soup, with crunchy cubes of sweet apple and little bursts of soft, smoky eel. We were offered a choice from a basket of homemade bread rolls – I turned down a blue poppy seed roll for a truffle and cep swirl.

01242 222200 www.lumiere.cc

Following this was a neat row of Cornish hand-dived scallops, with pork belly, orange,

Jon’s constantly evolving menu is entirely dependent on the seasons and the relentless search for the newest and best ingredients is really the secret to his success. The salt marsh hogget loin and kidney with al dente vegetables, Savoy cabbage and broad bean jus was a plate of pure West Country springtime. The generous portions left us with little room to even contemplate coffee, but the sight of the Yorkshire rhubarb soufflé bursting from its dish made us think otherwise. This appeared with the nostalgic accompaniment of rice pudding ice cream and a pink hibiscus syrup. Helen’s service was friendly and informative – with such attention to detail there were always more questions to ask about the provenance and technique behind what we’d just eaten. Lumière’s menu is committed to the producers of Gloucestershire and the West Country, but the pleasure and spontaneity of dining isn’t lost to doctrine.

Photos by Rob Hollingworth

Chef Jon Howe has received numerous accolades and has trained under John Campbell and Heston Blumenthal. He and partner Helen took over the restaurant at the beginning of last year, personalising Lumière’s already glowing reputation, and bringing the menu’s focus firmly onto local and sustainable dining.

We were offered a choice from a basket of homemade bread rolls â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I turned down a blue poppy seed roll for a truffle and cep swirlâ&#x20AC;Ś

Win a pair of tickets to the ! w o h S d o o F d o o G r e m m u S C BB

he BBC Summer Good Food Show, is returning to the NEC Birmingham from 1620 June 2010. Tickets are now on sale for the show that brings you everything you need for a sensational summer of fine dining, seasonal treats, refreshing drinks and perfect picnics. They’ll have plenty of familiar faces giving live cooking demonstrations in the Summer Kitchen sponsored by Sainsbury’s, including the Hairy Bikers and James Martin, along with Saturday Kitchen’s favourite wine guru, Olly Smith hosting the sessions. The Producers’ Village will be back with some of the finest seasonal and regional produce to treat your taste buds, and you’ll be able to sample refreshing wines and cool cocktails in the Drinks section. For those who love the amber nectar, Tasting Beers Live will be returning to the Show (Friday - Sunday) to help you find the perfect accompaniment to those sizzling summer barbecues. NEW! for 2010 – the MasterChef Experience sponsored by Miele is coming to the BBC Summer Good Food Show. Pick up tips from your favourite chefs from the series, take part in masterclasses, watch live cook-offs and if you think you have what it takes you can even show off your culinary skills

in the all new Invention Test which will be judged by Gregg Wallace and John Torode (Friday Sunday). Included in the ticket price is entry to BBC Gardeners’ World Live, which takes place alongside the BBC Summer Good Food Show. Here you’ll find all you need to get your garden looking gorgeous for alfresco dining during the long summer evenings. Pick up tips from top TV gardeners such as Alan Titchmarsh and Toby Buckland, delight in the aromas and beautiful displays in the RHS Floral Marquee sponsored by Renault and be inspired by the award-winning Show gardens. Plus you’ll really enjoy our new Grow your own Garden sponsored by NS&I where you can pick up tips from experts such as Jekka McVikkar on growing herbs.

Everyone loves summer so book your tickets now for a delicious day out by calling 0844 581 1338 or booking online at www.bbcgoodfoodshowsummer.com Or for your chance to WIN a pair of tickets, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com or write to us at the usual address - good luck!

> flavour

dirty girl diary

DirtyGirl DIARY

Known for giving the big two to the big four, Rebecca Sullivan is a staunch soldier for the green revolution who worked on the launch of both the Real Food Festival in London and Slow Food Nation in San Francisco. Picking up her London life six years ago, Rebecca recently moved to a smallholding in the Cotswolds to embark on various foodie adventures such as digging trout ponds, building smokehouses, installing beehives and making jam for her community-supported agriculture project ‘Dirty Girl Kitchen’. With her finger firmly on the pulse, each month Rebecca gives recommendations that no foodie should be without...

TESTUYA WAKUDA Tetsuya Wakuda, Australia’s favourite import, has launched a selection of his favourite products in Fortnum & Mason and Harvey Nichols.

ASPARAGUS IS IN THE AIR!

LOVE APRON With her love for all things vintage, Clodagh McKenna has designed the perfect vintage half-pinnie LOVE apron that will whisk you back to the glamour of 1940’s domestic heaven! Think baking like Julia Childs with the vintage edginess of Kate Moss. The new vintage LOVE apron is designed in classic French navy with delicate pink, yellow, white and green flowers. From the flattering waistband and tie bow to the white French anglaise trimming, Clodagh has ensured that the vintage Love apron is all about detail. Not only is this flirty apron fashionable, but it is also functional with two handy pockets – perfect for tucking in your recipe notes!

My absolute favourite time of year is here, asparagus time! Buy as much as possible of this lovely stuff while you still can. If needs must, wrap the cut ends in a damp cloth or seal the whole bunch in a plastic bag and store in the fridge. The spears should stay fresh for three days, and if you can wait that long to eat them you’ll be doing well. Remember it will only be around from the end of April until the end of June, so get in quick!

Tetsuya’s Truffle Salt and Truffle Salsa, made with Italian Black Summer Truffle are the perfect gift for the domestic chef and fanatic foodie alike. Open on a Sunday morning and make breakfast a

decadent affair – Tetsuya suggests scrambled eggs with cream, Parmesan and his Truffle Salsa. Or simpler still, hard-boiled eggs with his sumptuous Truffle Salt sprinkled on top! For the indulgent types like me, literally spread the truffle butter nice and thick on a big chunk of homemade bread!

Available from Fortnum & Mason and Harvey Nichols nationwide.

www.clodaghmckenna.com

> flavour

eco veggie fayre

eco veggie fayre The Bristol Eco Veggie Fayre May 29th and 30th is one of the world’s biggest gatherings of veggie food and a must visit even if you’re a meat eater! Some of the UK’s finest veggie food producers gather together at the first ever Bristol Eco Veggie Fayre on Saturday May 29th and 30th 2010, with the organisers expecting up to eight thousand people through the door to experience the delights of one of the UK’s fastest growing lifestyle choices – the veggie diet.

STALLHOLDERS INCLUDE: Beanie's BNice range of ice creams, made from rice milk Flossy Coffee Open early and serving fresh coffees, fudge, cakes and soft drinks

Some choose to be veggie for health reasons, others make the choice because they are concerned about the welfare of animals and a growing number go meat free due to environmental issues. No matter the reason, a growing number of people are going veggie for one reason only – the outstanding food!

Aunty Jee’s Curry House Outstanding spicy curries from this family firm Santa Fe Mexican food supreme

Veggie food has long since shed the earnest but rather dull hippy image of the ‘70s and with leading UK veggie caterers at the Bristol Eco Veggie Fayre alongside some award-winning food producers, there is a huge choice to be had. “Visitors to the show will be spoilt for choice when it comes to what to eat,” says organiser Tim Barford from Bristol based hemp firm Yaoh. “There is an incredible selection of really tasty food on offer and all of it is 100% plant based. We have over 100 stalls at the event with some amazing products on offer, including bodycare and clothes, plus loads of information – it’s a really good way to find out just how good the veggie lifestyle can be.” The weekend will include 48 talks and cookery demos as well as an entertainments arena with three stages. Saturday’s headliners are Roots Manuva and there will be a gypsy music theme with 3 Daft Monkeys on Sunday. You can also find a licensed bar, a kids area, a green homes zone, an eco cinema and an art exhibition. There really is a full line up to suit all tastes and with an advance admission price each day of just £6 for adults and £3 for kids and OAPs, Tim is expecting a full house. 22

Starbase catering Hummous, falafel, pitta and Middle Eastern platters The Parsnipship Exotic veggie delicacies from these a la carte specialists “There’s a real increase of interest in anything eco-friendly and especially in Bristol which has a huge population of veggies already,” adds Tim, “and with such an excellent variety of products, food, experts and information available, it’s going to be a busy and exciting weekend.”

Spice Up Your Life Wonderful array of spicy Indian food Lemon Squeezy Fresh lemonade and cakes The Big Pan Man Caterers with food served in edible plates!

Tickets are now on sale at www.yaoh.co.uk/catalog For more information: www.bristol.ecoveggiefayre.co.uk The show is organised by Yaoh and sponsored by Beanie’s Health Foods, Bute Island, Vitamix, Natural Balance, Activeg, The Spark, Viva!, Cook Vegetarian, Chunkies, Excellart, VeggieVision, and Foods for Life Tel: 01179 239053

Spankey's Spuds Potato specialities for the whole family Café Kino Cakes and teas

> flavour

eco veggie fayre

Loving Hut International n n ECO FOOD n n for all occasions n

Loving Hut was created with a vision that all beings could live in peace, love and harmony with each other and the planet. Loving hut is a chain of international restaurants opening worldwide. It is an invitation to gourmet international cuisine at a great price that is all plant-based and eco-friendly made with wholesome vegan ingredients offering an accessible starting point for those who want to make the noble transition to an animal-free diet. It is an outstanding opportunity for individuals and companies

to lower their carbon footprint and be kind to the environment without losing out on gourmet taste. Currently, there are Loving Hut restaurants in Camden, London and in Norwich. More are opening soon in London, Bristol and Brighton. There are also two Loving Hut Express mobile kitchens operating in the South of England, with more ready to go soon. They can cater for any occasion, and their menu ranges from vegan fast food to gourmet cuisine.

n LovingHutExpress.co.uk

n 07944 051030

> flavour

eco veggie fayre

Keep your eyes peeled for… With so many different stalls to choose from at this year’s Eco Veggie Fayre, we thought you might like some recommendations for those which are not to be missed!

FRY’S VEGETARIAN FOODS

DEVILICIOUS

THE BIG PAN MAN

These unique blends of fresh chillis and spices have been developed through generations of family recipes. These homemade chutneys are fresh, made of 100% natural ingredients and completely free of artificial colourings and preservatives. This month, Devilicious launches its flagship Red and Green Devils at the Bristol Eco Veggie Fair. The green chilli and coriander chutney is tart, fresh and has a kick that creeps up on you. The red chilli and garlic chutney by contrast is fragrant and warm. There is more yet to emerge from this range, including a new website, so watch this space!

The Big Pan Man is a new company dedicated to serving healthy and imaginative alternatives to greasy fast food. Using only locally sourced ingredients, The Big Pan Man cooks exciting street food according to recipes from around the world. Their signature dish is the 'bread bowl meal', whereby food is served in a hollowed-out wholemeal bap. Another recent invention is the ‘Asparagus Dog’ - an offering of gently steamed asparagus served in a hot dog roll and dressed with butter, lemon and black pepper sauce yummy!

Tel: 07779 623225/07957 473599 Email: devilicious.chutneys@googlemail.com

Fry’s Vegetarian Foods are approved by the Vegan and Vegetarian Societies and are recommended as ‘Best Buy’ by The Ethical Consumer. Approved as Kosher, Shuddha and Halaal, Fry's frozen products are free from meat, dairy, eggs, nuts, cholesterol, hydrogenated fats, GM ingredients, artificial colours, flavours and preservatives. The award-winning range includes burgers, sausages, nuggets, sausage rolls, schnitzels, hot dogs, veggie mince and cottage pie. Tel: 01489 574593 Visit: www.beanieshealthfoods.co.uk

Tel: 01562 851420 Visit: www.thebigpanman.co.uk

FTF SWEETS SPICE UP YOUR LIFE Spice Up Your Life pride themselves on cooking with fresh ingredients and using spices to create their distinctive flavours and aromas. Their pure vegan cuisine is cooked with pure sunflower oil and uses no additives, artificial colorants or butter ghee. Also available is their organic homemade yoghurt drink Lassi and aromatic chai latte.

The FTF team is set to launch this exciting new mouth-watering range just in time for the great British summer! Goody Good Stuff combines the highest quality blend of ingredients (including natural fruit juices and extracts) to produce a beautifully clear consistency and a superior taste experience. This entire line is gluten, fat, dairy and nut free as well as being vegetarian, vegan, kosher and halaal certified. Be sure to go and pay them a visit in the veggie village. Visit: www.goodygoodstuff.com

Tel: 01179 144448 Email: spice-up-yourlife@hotmail.co.uk

> flavour

sophie dahl

As her BBC2 series continues to have us all glued to the screen, Sophie Dahl reflects on her time in New York and offers up a tasty springtime supper dish...

The delicious

Miss Dahl 27

> flavour

sophie dahl

The New York of adolescent memory still held me in its thrall. So why not rediscover it? Why not up sticks, pack a trunk and move there for adventure’s sake? Unencumbered by responsibility, bar needing a job, 21 seemed the best age of any to just do it. Although I arrived in New York in the autumn of 1999, it was therefore a spring of sorts; a green novice beginning. I was discovering a city; its hidden corners, the winding walk up the East River, the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens (which helped when I was homesick) and the Tea and Sympathy restaurant on Greenwich Avenue (which provided just that). I was enthralled by the take-out system in New York, where you could order, by phone, cuisine from any part of the world, and within fifteen minutes it would be winging its way to your doorstep: Japanese, Moroccan, Ethiopian, Indian, pizza that could break your heart. Such instant gratification, and very dangerous for an inquisitive glutton. All I wanted to do was cook. Cooking was self-sustaining and always there. I spent the summer mostly in upstate New York, cooking plates of Swedish meatballs (which I left well alone) for friends. I’m still semi28

vegetarian after twenty years; I eat fish, but no other meat (the hangover of a hippy childhood) but am happy to cook organic free-range chicken, beef or lamb as long as I know where it came from. That summer I also bought an army of Le Creuset pots that I have to this day, a brilliant KitchenAid cake mixer and a blowtorch so I could scorch my own crème brûlée. My alternative period, which happened somewhere around 2004, also featured a flirtation with raw foodism which was the cause of great mirth amongst my friends. My raw adventure was short-lived, much to the relief of those I knew. It was incredibly time consuming. I had to concede that I was just not that patient; I was gluttonous and proud, and that’s all there was to it. My brother still misses the Irish moss mousse. The raw food thing happened because of something that had happened in India the year before. Having been the same shape for a good few years, I went to India to make a film in 2003. I had been to India many times, and I had never been ill, but in the last week of being there, I was. It could have happened anywhere. What that nasty few intense months of

sickness offered me was a chance to stop leaping around like a jumping bean, to see food not just as sustenance, but also as medicine, and to truly follow a course of balance. In this way, I got my health and body into a calm rhythm. Think of a child’s routine. You wouldn’t send a child off to school without breakfast; you wouldn’t tell him to have a Diet Coke and a protein bar for lunch because you didn’t have time. Regardless of whether the child in question was obese or of an average weight, you would be tolerant, kind and nurturing, providing the most comprehensive nourishment you could muster in order to give him a healthy existence. Why are you any different?

‘Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights’ is available at all good bookshops. Published by Harper Collins. RRP £20

> flavour

sophie dahl

SEA BASS WITH BLACK OLIVE SALSA AND BABY COURGETTES This would be a good date dinner. On my 30th birthday I had sea bass cooked for me and served in the garden, surrounded by twinkling candles and a whole lot of love. Serves 2 Ingredients 2 sea bass fillets Olive oil Juice of 1 lemon Salt and pepper 6 baby courgettes/zucchini, halved

For the black olive salsa: 250g/1 cup of pitted black olives 150g/1 cup of cherry tomatoes, halved A handful of fresh chopped basil and dill Juice of 1 lemon 1/2 a red chilli; deseeded and chopped 60ml/1/4 cup of olive oil 1 lemon, sliced, rind and pith removed, to garnish

Method Preheat the oven to 190째C /170째C fan/gas 5. Marinate the bass in a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper for about 20 minutes. In a mixing bowl, mix the olives, tomatoes, chopped basil, dill, lemon juice, red chilli and olive oil. Put to one side. Slice the courgettes/zucchini lengthways, season and splash with olive oil, then bake in the oven for 20 minutes. Pan-fry the bass in some hot olive oil, cooking it for 2 minutes on each side. Add the bass to the plates and top it with the black olive salsa, serving the baby courgettes/zucchini on the side, sprinkled with extra dill and lemon slices.

> flavour

royal bath and west

The Royal Bath and West Show at Shepton Mallet (2-5 June) is a great day out for food lovers across the country and this year is set to be its biggest and best event.

royal bath and west From the National Cheese Awards to the UK’s biggest cider competition and even a Bees and Honey Tent where you can learn about the secret life of a bee, a little bit of everything will be available to tickle your taste buds at this year’s show. Earlier in the year the show’s organisers were on the hunt for a novice food enthusiast to join the panel of experts at this year’s event. The campaign ‘Glutton for Nourishment’ required the individual to 30

have a real love of food as well as a genuine and enthusiastic interest in local produce. Winner Max Halley certainly proved himself the perfect candidate after succeeding to triumph over 90 other candidates. 27 yearold Max, who has spent many years in the restaurant business, impressed the judges with his unique blend of enthusiasm and passion for fine food and his professional background. Having spent two years working as a salesman for quality Spanish

food importers Brindisa, Max became a wholesaler of artisan British foodstuffs to London restaurants and delicatessens before entering the restaurant business. Over the last five years, he has worked as a waiter at a Michelin starred restaurant in London and has most recently managed At The Chapel in Bruton. "This has got to be every food lover's absolute dream job,” Max said, "I love food and genuinely believe this love is coupled

> flavour

with a sound knowledge of food from around the world, which will give me many points of reference when picking and choosing between entries." Max was put through his paces at Bath’s Bertinet Kitchen, where along with four other short listed candidates he took a series of product ‘taste tests’ involving cheese, bread and cider and was questioned on his knowledge of issues relating to seasonal and local produce. Candidates were scored on their palate, knowledge and enthusiasm for food. Jane Guise, Chief Executive of the Royal Bath and West Society, commented: “We were overwhelmed with both the quantity and quality of entries we received for this role and competition – especially among the final five candidates – was tough. However, Max really stood out to us. As well as having the knowledge required to do the job well, he displayed a unique sense of fun.”

She added: “I am confident Max will make a valuable contribution to the judging as well as helping broaden the appeal of the show to a wider audience.” Other show highlights include the country’s

royal bath and west

biggest cheese show where visitors will be able to see, taste and enjoy a staggering array of some of the UK’s finest cheeses and dairy produce. The vast food halls offer the chance to sample not only regional food but food from further afield within and beyond the UK. In the halls, visitors can taste the produce, ask questions regarding its origins and even get tips on how to maximise flavours. Children can also watch milking demonstrations, see piglets, lambs and calves and experience the fun of feeding a chicken as well as collecting an egg to cook and eat in the Farmhouse Kitchen.

Adult’s tickets are £20, concessions are £18 and children older than five are £6. To book call 01749 822222 or visit www.bathandwest.com 31

Cotswolds88hotel ǸȽȉ HȐɕɜǸɤɑǸȽɜ Enjoy world class food by renowned chef Lee Scott, whose career has included running Gordon Ramsay's Savoy Grill and catering for some of the most discerning tastes.

Set Menu Lunch Offer 2 courses of the set menu from £10.00 (available Monday to Saturday)

Learn exciting new culinary skills from the best in the industry at 88's Cooking School with courses throughout 2010!

Open Monday-Sunday for breakfast, lunch, dinner and the ultimate afternoon tea!

T: 01452 813688 E: reservations@cotswolds88hotel.com Cotswolds88hotel, Kemps Lane, Painswick, Glos, GL6 6YB www.cotswolds88hotel.com

> flavour

i desire

I desire... IDEAS TO SATISFY A TASTE FOR THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE…

> flavour

i desire

I desire... THE FINEST DINING

Appointed Head Chef of The Grill at The Dorchester in May 2009, Brian Hughson has placed The Grill at the forefront of the London dining scene and re-established its credentials as one of the UK’s best restaurants showcasing classic British cuisine. Since taking the helm, accolades have included listings in the ‘Ten Best Celebrity Chef Restaurants’ in Top Table’s Top 100 and in GQ’s ‘Top Ten Eateries’. Brian’s cooking is assured, clean and elegant, with the key ingredient allowed to take centre stage in every dish. With the provenance of ingredients being his passion, Brian works tirelessly to source quality, organic produce from around the British Isles wherever possible, such as beef, lamb, salmon and garden vegetables. Beautifully cooked British ingredients, such as Dorset Down lambs chops, saddle of wild rabbit and honey glazed ham, are at the heart of The Grill’s menu, alongside the salmon and roast beef carving trolleys and a dish of the ay. Brian’s own modern interpretations of British classics are further highlights of the à la carte, with his signature dish, sardine pie, already proving a big hit with diners. Just like the hotel itself, the food encompasses style, sheer exuberance and glamour with attentive service right at its heart.

T: 020 7629 8888 W: www.thedorchester.com 34

> flavour

i desire

I desire... STYLISH INDULGENCE The Bath Priory’s splendid new garden spa is befitting of a luxury country house hotel. French doors open directly onto the immaculate gardens and allow the sunlight to flood in and wash over this dreamy space. The indoor heated pool is beautiful and intimate; a poolside sauna, elliptical steam pod and shower complete the picture. The spa also boasts four state-ofthe-art treatment rooms, including a dual treatment room which is perfect for couples or friends. The light and airy fitness suite, which overlooks the gardens, is well equipped with the full range of cardiovascular machines and free weights, inviting you to burn off a few calories from your over-indulgent, but oh-so-scrumptious afternoon tea!

restaurant under the direction of Executive Chef Michael Caines MBE, along with Head Chef Sam Moody. Michael, who also holds two Michelin stars at sister hotel Gidleigh Park, creates modern European cuisine that is truly exquisite. The provenance of the food is all-important, and the produce is sourced directly from the South West (some as local as the Priory's own kitchen garden). While the cuisine is superb and innovative, the wine list is exemplary. Waiters are knowledgeable and the sommelier is more than happy to advise on which tipple will provide that perfect match to your meal. T: 01225 331922 W: www.thebathpriory.co.uk

The Bath Priory boasts an award-winning

I desire...

THE ULTIMATE R&R Whatley Manor is a place to restore and revive. Set in 12 acres of English country gardens, nestled within the Wiltshire countryside, Whatley can be found on the doorstep to the Cotswolds and just two hours outside of central London. As soon as the huge oak gates swing silently shut behind you, the magic begins. Michelin two starred chef, Martin Burge oversees the Swiss interior style brasserie, Le Mazot and the gastronomic restaurant ‘The Dining Room’. Prepare yourself for a showcase of exquisite classical French cuisine with a modern interpretation. Amongst the jewels in the crown is Aquarias, the award-winning spa and La 36

Prairie ‘Art of Beauty’ centre offering a host of luxurious treatments designed to restore both mind and body to new harmony. Full and half day spa experiences are also on offer. Quench any feelings of overindulgence in the well-equipped gym decked out with state of the art equipment including a ‘Power Plate pro 5 AIRdaptive’ or if you prefer a more leisurely distraction, watch your favourite film in the stylish 40 seat cinema. Refer to the website for special mid-week packages and events including the gardens, spa and cookery masterclasses. T: 01666 822888 W: www.whatleymanor.com

I desire...

COUNTRY HOUSE LIVING AT ITS BEST Lucknam Park Hotel and Spa is a magnificent Palladian mansion resting proudly at the end of a mile long drive, double lined with beech and lime trees within a woodland estate of 500 acres, six miles from the historic city of Bath. Individually designed, the 42 bedrooms and suites provide a luxurious foundation for a truly indulgent escape. The Spa, now acclaimed as one of the finest in the UK, sets a new standard of luxury. With inspiration taken from the beautiful gardens and spectacular estate, the extensive facilities include a 20 metre pool, nine state-of-the-art treatment rooms, five thermal cabins, a sauna and an indoor/outdoor hydrotherapy pool. The exclusive and innovative Parisienne body products of Anne Semonin and Carita provide luxury and indulgence at its very best. For the more energetic, the hotel also boasts two floodlit tennis courts, a five-aside football pitch as well as bicycles on which to explore the estate and surrounding countryside. An extensive equestrian centre offers riding and specialist clinics for the complete beginner to the more accomplished rider.

Dining at Lucknam is a gourmet treat. Michelin starred, the opulence and elegance of The Park restaurant provides the perfect environment in which to experience the exceptional cuisine created by Executive Chef, Hywel Jones. Complementing The Park, The Brasserie is contemporary, stylish and offers delicious all day dining. T: 01225 742777 W: www.lucknampark.co.uk. 37

> flavour

london caling

London calling...

101 Pimlico Road A saunter from Sloane Square and diagonal to Daylesford Organic, the minds behind 101 Pimlico Road are determined to deliver an erudite and eager interpretation of classic British cooking. According to Douglas Blyde, founders, Keith Goddard (24) and Will Guess (29), appear to be not only one of the capital’s youngest restaurant teams, but perhaps its most galvanised...

101 Pimlico Road London SW1W 8PH. Tel: 0207 730 0202 Visit: www.101pimlicoroad.co.uk

It came as a shock to realise that they met barely eight months ago, introduced by their sisters who happen to be best friends. Goddard was working at arguably London’s most revered butchers, Darragh O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge, and after just three meetings with Guess, who had long harboured dreams of owning a neighbourhood British restaurant, his future was to take a different course. Goddard comments: “after three months, 101 was open.” Lit by lamps like giant ‘Polo’ mints, the long dining room is lined with collages of cutlery and jigsaw pieces by bespoke wallpaper

> flavour

artist, Tracy Kendall. Believing “the eye needs the same level of pleasure as the mouth,” Kendall took what she and early critics saw as a “well-made, but blandlooking room” and amended it with “modern touches”, not unlike Goddard’s take on British food. To respect the area’s traditional feel, Kendall lined the stairway with vintage wallpaper liberated from a flea-market in Paris. I start with a soup of potent wild garlic from Burford, punctuated with brisk thyme croutons and a soothing stir of blossom honey. Alongside, a glass of Picpoul de Pinet from the largely French list scythes through, accurately reflecting its namesake which means ‘lip stinger’ in Languedoc dialect. As 101’s list gradually expands, Goddard plans to stock bottles from within our shores. He says: “some of the English sparkling wines I tasted recently have been outstanding.” My choice of main is informed by Guess’s Mayfair restaurant pedigree and Goddard’s apprenticeship in Knightsbridge – O’Shea’s 44-day hung Irish Black Angus côte du boeuf. Rippled with oleaginous fatty bands and improbably tender, it is simply served on a candle-warmed salver with a turret of roasted bone marrow, toast spread with capers and more marrow and a net of unlimited, hand-cut matchstick chips. Goddard also offers truffled chips using tubers from Alfredo, the same supplier as the previous restaurant on this site, ‘La Fontana’, legendary for its truffle menus. Approximately 70% of ingredients are sourced from the UK and Ireland, including Mozzarella from Hampshire, Yorkshire lamb and Label Anglais chicken. However Goddard sees certain imported goods as indispensable when crafting dishes that his customers wouldn’t usually cook at home.

london calling

These include lotus root crisps which accompany a starter of tuna and scallop tartare with soya sesame dressing. “We slice them thinly on a mandoline then deep fry them at 180 degrees, finishing them with a sprinkle of Japanese Nanami Togarashi mixed chilli pepper.” To get closer to flappingly fresh fish, Goddard wants to open a restaurant on the coast one day. “I love fishing for salmon, trout, grayling, mackerel, sailfish and bonefish,” he says. For the moment, however, he makes do with no fewer than three suppliers fringing the south coast. “The fishermen send me text messages every evening telling me what they’ve landed and the market price. The next day it’s delivered.” So, what of the future? As 101 emerges from the dour winter into its first summer, Goddard has launched a new wave of supple ice creams which are beautifully mounted upon micro-diced nuts. “They’re selling faster than I can make them,” he says. Flavours include brown bread, peanut butter, star anise, and what I predict will become an immovable option, popcorn. Now a couth, calm and comfortable haven, Goddard’s and Guess’s restaurant is beginning to garner the attention and respect of the capital’s often fickle diners. “If we’re honest, 101 is still in the making, and we’re totally committed to taking it all the way,” says Goddard. “I’m concentrating on mastering the existing kitchen, so that when I choose fancy things, I’ll feel like I deserved it.” Both agree that it is both a very scary and very exciting time. “Our biggest challenge,” says Guess, “which we’re winning, is to find staff as intense as us...”

A three course set lunch costs £21; à la carte from £27 39

> flavour

bart spices

fruits of the sea What better way to inaugurate the BBQ season than with the new range of Hanbury herb-infused salts from Bart Spices...

The premium range contains wet grey salt from the Île-de-Noirmoutiers off the West coast of France. The lengthy production process requires the flooding of traditional salt marshes followed by the removal of the top layer (sel de fleur), which reveals a layer underneath, favoured for its larger crystals. The sel de mer, or sea salt, is then dried for six months before various herbs are added and left for three weeks to allow the flavours to fully infuse. Unlike some sea salt which is boiled and filtered in order to whiten it, the only treating agents used in Hanbury salts are the wind, sea and water. The combination of the elements give it a natural clay-like finish, much like the large bags of salt holidaymakers often see in local French markets. “We actually bought Hanbury about 3 years ago from a couple running a cookery school up in Norfolk,” explains Bart’s Head of New Product Development Kelly Field, “They made infused salts to use during the courses they ran and they proved so 40

popular, people invariably wanted to know where they could buy them.” The recent re-launch of the salts means they’re now housed in chic kilner jars, with wide necks to allow generous handfuls to be scooped and sprinkled over meat, fish and vegetables.

A stylish addition to any kitchen shelf, and perfect for maximising flavour with minimum effort. Bart’s Hanbury range launches at the end of this month and is available in delis throughout the region and online at www.bartspices.com

Unlike some sea salt which is boiled and filtered in order to whiten it, the only treating agents used in Hanbury salts are the wind, sea and water

> flavour

bart spices

! WIN

To celebrate the launch of their Hanbury range, Bart Spices are offering one lucky flavour reader the chance to win a hamper of all the new products, as well as recipe postcards, an apron and cotton bag. To enter, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine, or write to us at the usual address. Good luck!

CRACKLING BELLY PORK WITH CIDER SHALLOTS Serves 4 Ingredients 1.5kg belly pork piece, skin scored 1 tbsp Hanbury Great with Meat herb cooking salt 1 tbsp olive oil 20 shallots, peeled 400ml dry cider 8 Bart Juniper Berries, crushed 1 tbsp Bart Cornflour

HANBURY FOR EVERYDAY COOKING Try sprinkling Hanbury Great with Vegetable over your potatoes at the start of roasting for the perfect roast potatoes.

Method 1 Heat the oven to 220°C/gas mark 7. Dry the pork skin with some kitchen roll then rub in the Hanbury Salt and drizzle

over the oil. Place in a roasting tin and blast on the high heat for 30 minutes to start off the crackling. 2 After 30 minutes take the pork out of the oven. Reduce the heat to 200°C/gas mark 5, remove the pork from the roasting tin to a plate and place the shallots in the bottom of the tin, pour in the cider and throw in the juniper berries. Replace the pork on top and return to the oven for a further hour. 3 The meat should be cooked through and very tender. Remove from the oven and set the pork on a warm plate to rest. Put the roasting tin on a low heat on the hob, combine the cornflour with a little water, blend until smooth and tip into the cooking liquor. Simmer for 1-2 minutes stirring continuously until you have a smooth gravy. Serve a few slices of pork per person with shallots and drizzled with gravy.

Drizzle olive oil over your roast chicken before cooking then sprinkle over a tablespoon of the Hanbury Poultry Rub and cook for the required time. Sprinkle Hanbury Great with Everything over Focaccia bread dough before baking. Add a little Hanbury Meat Rub with olive oil to make a marinade. Brush or rub on a couple of steaks before BBQ’ing. If possible, leave in the fridge for a couple of hours before cooking. 41

> flavour

somerset arms

This month flavour takes a drive into the country and stumbles upon Maiden Bradley, a village that’s part of South Wiltshire’s Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and home to a unique boutique bolt-hole...

somerset arms The late 1990s marked the age of the gastropub and a whole new set of rules about finer dining without all the fuss and frills. Nowadays, the sublime combination of eating truly good food in a truly relaxed atmosphere is the new order for the modern foodie who will happily polish off a plate of pork tenderloin with a glass of cloudy local cider. A more recent phenomenon in the same vein is the ‘pub-with-rooms’, where diners can enjoy all the benefits of informal indulgence without having to think about the drive home afterwards. One such venue is The Somerset Arms, which since opening has been given a string of awards, including ‘UK Food Pub Of The Year’, and the West Country’s ‘Best Gastropub’ and ‘Best Newcomer’. An unusually swift rise to recognition for a venture that’s less than two years old.

The Somerset Arms Church Street Maiden Bradley Warminster Wiltshire Tel: 01985 844207 Visit: www.thesomersetarms.co.uk 42

Crossing the pub’s threshold however immediately solves the mystery. Owners Lisa Richards (travel writer) and Rachel Seed (food writer) both forged a career from scrutinising other people’s hosting efforts and have been equally as meticulous in attending to their own. The impeccable décor is unmistakably design-led, fusing traditional features such as roaring open fires and a well-stocked reading room with more contemporary flourishes: think Farrow & Ball colours, bespoke upholstery and a generous sprinkling of church candles throughout. With Rachel at the helm in the kitchen, the food at The Somerset Arms uses the best local fare on offer to create a modern British menu with occasional Spanish twists – the pair having lived there for some years

before moving back to the UK. So expect to see a warm potato, chorizo and mint salad next to a homely venison cottage pie. Coming just down the road from the Stourhead Estate and hung for 21 days, a 9oz rib eye steak (£15.95) proved irresistible. Served with hand-cut chips, roasted vine tomatoes, rocket salad and a buttery béarnaise sauce, this melt-in-themouth offering would be worth going back for alone. That's if I can prevent myself from ordering the monkfish stew (pictured right) which sailed seductively passed my table and was heartily devoured by a fellow diner. After a competitive game of scrabble and a few warming glasses of Pinot Noir, it was time to contemplate the delightfully short walk to bed. As expected, the second floor of the pub has been given the same careful attention as the first, with five generously sized bedrooms offering Egyptian cotton sheets, fluffy cotton bathrobes and sleek flat screen televisions. One of the rooms also has a contemporary free-standing bath, perfect for the kind of self indulgence required after a long walk in the surrounding countryside. Just a stone’s throw from acres of National Trust land and Longleat Safari Park, you don't have to venture far to find it either. Boasting an idyllic backdrop (both outside and in), thoughtful food and attentive hosts, The Somerset Arms comes highly recommended for a weekend in the country with a difference. And with rooms starting at £80 per night including breakfast, never has experiencing the perfect balance between rural charm and contemporary chic seemed so affordable.

The sublime combination of eating truly good food in a truly relaxed atmosphere is the new order for the modern foodie who will happily polish off a plate of pork tenderloin with a glass of cloudy local cider

> flavour

long shelf life

As part of a new series, Helen Aurelius-Haddock takes a closer look at the culinary classics that should be adorning every cook’s bookshelf...

LONG SHELF LIFE... Although not a celebrity chef offering in the real sense Roast Chicken And Other Stories’ author Simon Hopkinson has had his share of fame. It briefly toppled Harry Potter from the Number One on the best sellers list. No mean achievement. Its popularity ensured the swift follow-up sequel Second Helpings of Roast Chicken. It’s not the kind of pretty picture book that we crave as a foodie nation. There are the odd few sketches, but in the main you have to rely on the quality of the writing to sustain you, which it does admirably. He attempts and succeeds in charting the steady evolution of British cuisine since the Second World War. He is an exponent of French cooking methods, the prolific use of his favourite ingredients and a wickedly excessive use of butter. The books’ detail lies in the attention to detail of the ingredients they feature. They

are introduced alphabetically via some delightfully witty prose, liberally sprinkled with some history and their treatment by the foodie elite (Elisabeth David), local food suppliers (Sid, his butcher in Hammersmith) and other luminaries (Morecombe and Wise).

received. There’s also a wealth of staples that seem to be so sadly lacking from so many works on the kitchen shelf, making it an invaluable addition to an aspiring home cooks’ collection. If it’s junket, soufflé, fool or vichyssoise that you’re after, these are the books for you.

By way of ingredients, the familiar are there in the majority, but we are encouraged to flirt with the more obscure too. Anchovies, brains, rabbit, skate, sweetbreads, tongue, tripe and truffles are some of the dark horses that he talks about, demystifying and deconstructing them then scribbling out a recipe or two for us to try.

So whether like me you now slope off on a raid to capture the literary equivalent of a meal deal at the local Bookends, try and get copies of these books, rustle up a few dishes and treat them as your culinary best buddies. You won’t regret it.

He mixes it up too. Combinations of unusual ingredients appear together and break down conventional notions that have been previously held about them: currants with salmon, lettuce with curry, Roquefort and fried parsley, and quatre épices and hake all make a debut here and are well

A student of Bristol University back in the ‘70s, Helen has since exchanged her life in the West Country for the sunnier climes of Western France. You can follow her culinary musings across the Channel on her blog: www.haddockinthekitchen.wordpress.com

My father’s generation delighted in the drink called Gin and French. This was an abomination to my tender, unaccustomed nostrils between the ages of say, seven and seventeen, and what’s more it remains with me to this very day. Simply, it was a smallish glass half filled with Gordon’s Gin and topped up with an equal quantity of Noilly Prat. No ice, no lemon. Absolute filth. Simon Hopkinson. 45

> flavour

british asparagus

Hailed by leading chefs as the best in the world, be sure you don’t miss out on its relatively short season of just seven to eight wonderful weeks...

british asparagus Forget enjoying asparagus just once or maybe twice when it’s in season, this sensational homegrown ‘super food’ comes packed with nutrients, bursting with taste… and a surprising sexual punch! A truly versatile veg, asparagus is delicious in all sorts of different dishes – for lunch, dinner and even breakfast! For those who’ve only ever considered asparagus as a luxurious accompaniment to a main course, it’s time to think again! There are numerous ways to taste British asparagus and when it’s on the shelves, there’s absolutely no reason why it can’t be enjoyed two or three times a week (or even everyday!) in all sorts of recipes, perfect for every meal time. How about a lazy Sunday brunch of scrambled eggs topped with melt-in-themouth asparagus spears tossed in butter?

Or a light lunch of asparagus, bacon and poached egg salad with a mustard dressing? The options are endless for dinner; why not whip up an asparagus, tomato and mozzarella pizza for the family or impress dinner guests with pan fried fillet of beef with roasted asparagus and red pepper and horseradish hollandaise? Asparagus is so versatile and it can be enjoyed by everyone – the young, the old, families, the health-conscious and pregnant women alike. Try the kids on lightly buttered asparagus spears dipped in runny boiled eggs.

about the easiest way of them all, simply eating asparagus raw, just as nature intended, in a fresh and light summer salad?

Asparagus is traditionally served simply steamed or lightly boiled and is delicious either way. However, it can also be roasted, chargrilled, barbecued or stir-fried. Or how

And while fresh British asparagus will always be a ‘special’ veg, it’s now firmly established as an ingredient which everyone can enjoy.

> flavour

british asparagus

WHAT THE CHEFS SAY... “Thank God for the asparagus bed, where those glorious, green spears thrust upwards sometimes inches in a day. I have to say, I can't get enough of them. I look forward to asparagus like my kids look forward to Christmas, and I feel cheated if the season passes me by without at least a dozen good servings of the stuff. And by "servings" I mean greedy fistfuls, not a few elegant spears arranged over an enormous white plate.” Hugh Fearnely-Whittingstall

“The arrival of asparagus marks a change in the year for me. Those first bunches turn up on the trestle tables at the market when my own vegetable patch is flush with green shoots and hope. Yes, it's a luxury, but the homegrown stuff will only be with us till the third week of June or so, and I am happy to do without other luxuries just to get my twice-a-week fill. A treat indeed.” Nigel Slater “May sees erotic asparagus charging up through the soil. Melted butter great! Vinaigrette, fine! But hollandaise – oh God, what a combination! There is no better luxury to bring to the mouth on the end of a quivering green spear. Don’t get me wrong, I do adore asparagus, I’m badmannered and greedy for it, but sometimes it’s just a vehicle for hollandaise.” Valentine Warner

BRITISH ASPARAGUS AND CHEESE BRUNCH MUFFINS Makes 12 large muffins Preparation 15 minutes Cook 25- 30 minutes

water for a couple of minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water, separating the tips from the pieces of stem.

Ingredients 12 spears of British asparagus 400g self raising flour 200g Cheshire cheese, cut into small cubes 125g butter 1 small bunch chives, snipped into pieces 150ml milk 100ml plain yogurt 1tsp English mustard 2 eggs Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 In a large bowl, mix the flour with the cubes of cheese. 4 Melt the butter and pour into a jug. Stir through the chives, milk, yogurt, Suffolk Mud mustard and eggs. Mix well until combined and season generously with salt & pepper. 5 Gently fold the wet ingredients into the flour and cheese, and stir through the asparagus stems. Be careful not to over mix and stop as soon as the mixture is combined.

Method 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C/gas 6 and line a 12 hole muffin tin with cases. 2 Cut the asparagus stems into small pieces, about 1cm in length, leaving the tips a little longer and blanch in boiling

6 Spoon the mixture evenly between the muffin cases and push an asparagus tip into the middle of each. Bake in the oven for 25–30 minutes until golden. Best eaten hot out of the oven, spread with a little cold butter.

> flavour

sausage fest

If you’re donning your wellies this festival season, be sure to keep an eye out for our new favourite sausage supplier…

the sausage fest Sat amongst friends on a snowboarding holiday three years ago, budding entrepreneur Ryan Coghlan had unwittingly embarked upon a new business venture and so with little else apart from the name and an unrivaled passion for making the perfect banger, ‘The Sausage Fest’ was born.

actually seeing the fresh ingredients we’ve put in such as chunks of garlic and chilli seeds.”

At the tender age of 20, Ryan teamed up with business partner Luke Freeman. Feeling let down by the quality of what was currently on the market, the duo put their heads together to come up with a service that provides the people of Bristol with some of the best sausages around.

The Sausage Fest began trading in 2007 to the festivalgoers of Glastonbury. Thanks to the unforgiving summer showers, the new business got off to a very wet start. “That year was a bit of a disaster for us, we lost a lot of money.” Undeterred, things made a quick turn around for the enthusiastic pair. As well as providing catering for the show ‘Deal or No Deal’ and multiple pubs and restaurants in the area, Ryan now mans their own stall at the newly opened Woolies Indoor Market on Whiteladies Road.

Using only 100% quality pedigree pork from The Forest of Dean in Gloucester, lamb from the Mendip Hills and beef from Hereford, Ryan is passionate about keeping things local. Ryan explains: “It’s all about getting the right consistency as well as

“Luke generally looks after the catering side of things and I make and sell the sausages here. We also provide for bangers and mash weddings which are hugely popular and really good fun, as well as hog roasts and canapé parties.” Customers can expect a mouth-watering selection of flavours, from their infamous ‘Chilli Billy’, which includes goats cheese, chilli flakes and sundried tomatoes, to their ‘Moorish Lamb’ with Moroccan spices and fresh local herbs; these are a discerning sausage-lover’s dream. You can also chose from delicious bacon cuts, chorizo, homemade chutneys and black puddings. Teamed up with your favourite style mash and some homemade gravy you won’t go far wrong. Alternatively, simply leave to sizzle on a BBQ and accompany with a minty potato salad – delicious.

You can visit The Sausage Fest at Woolies Indoor Market, a real hubbub for independent shoppers. Stalls here include Pieminster, Bessell’s Fresh Fruit and Veg, and Fishman with a Difference where you can buy traditional fish that has been delivered daily from South West waters. 140a Whiteladies Road Bristol BS8 2RS Tel: 01173 179423 Visit:www.wooliesindoormarket.com

GOOD FOOD STARTS HERE

Love your food? Care about freshness and quality? At Source,we feel the same way. Our Food Hall is bursting with fresh, seasonal produce. Just as importantly, you'll be served by knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff who share your passion for food, and are brimming with advice and tips on how to prepare and cook it.

A unique dining experience Lunch served: Wednesday – Saturday 12pm – 2pm Dinner served: Tuesday – Saturday 7pm – 9pm * * * *

Finest, seasonal Produce Critically acclaimed food 7 Course Tasting Menu Great Wines

Clarence Parade, Cheltenham, Glos GL50 3PA 01242 222200 info@lumiere.cc www.lumiere.cc

Our Café thrives in this lively, bustling market environment, with the range of produce from our Food Hall inspiring our chefs to create exciting and varied menus - all served by people who love their food as much as you do. 1-3 EXCHANGE AVE, ST NICHOLAS MARKET, BS1 1JP, www.source-food.co.uk, 0117 9272998

> flavour

ask a chef

Ask a chef onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie's Restaurant in Thornbury. Ron has had a distinguished career working in some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe, for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cooking for national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie's skill and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menus showcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as the Good Food Guide’s 'Restaurant of the Year’. Ronnie’s is based in Thornbury and is open Tuesday-Sunday. Lunches and coffees are available from 10am-3pm and evening meals are available from 6.30pm-11pm. The restaurant is closed on Monday.

R Ronnie Faulkner

Q. My brother is coming to stay and only drinks red wine. Which ones would you recommend for drinking during the warmer weather? Will Watson, Bath

Q. How do I make my own lemonade? Sophie Hunt, Street A. I always start by making a lemon cordial. You will need: 8 lemons (200ml lemon juice), 200g sugar and 200ml water. Peel half the lemons with a potato peeler, removing the zest while leaving as much of the pith (white flesh) behind. Squeeze the juice from the lemons and bring to a gentle simmer with the zest, water and sugar. Ensuring all the sugar is dissolved, remove from the heat and refrigerate overnight when cooled. Strain the liquid and the cordial is made. Simply add water to taste, loads of ice and garnish with a slice or two of lemon.

A. I enjoy a lighter red in the warmer weather and a particular favourite at the moment is Domaine Benoit Trichard Brouilly 2008, priced at £10.95 from Great Western Wines. This is a smooth, medium bodied wine and works well with grilled pork or chicken so it would be great for a BBQ.

Q. I love smoked garlic but never really know what to do with it – any ideas? Clare Smith, Peasedown St. John A. I like to serve it in its skin with roasted lamb. It’s quite rustic but very simple and such a treat. To roast the garlic, brush it with olive oil and place in a low oven (130° C) for 45-60 minutes. You could also try mixing the roasted flesh with a little mayo to make smoked garlic aioli. Q. How can I make my lunchbox salad a bit more exciting? Holly Chalmers, Malmesbury A. The secret of any good salad is the dressing. Most salads, especially if it contains delicate leaves need to be eaten as soon as they are dressed or the acidity of the dressing will draw out the moisture, break down the cells and your salad will be limp and mushy. My favourite dressing is 1 part sherry vinegar to 4 parts good extra virgin olive oil to which I add grain mustard. Try adding a few soft herbs to the salad too.

If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at the usual address or email info@flavourmagazine.com

(?)

Q. What's a good BBQ marinade for all types of meat? Dan Rickman, Bristol A. Marinades are traditionally used to flavour and tenderise meat. This Moroccan marinade can be rubbed on the meat just before you grill it. Blend the following ingredients in a liquidizer to a fine mix and accompany with a yoghurt and mint sauce. 2 tablespoons of coriander seed, 2 tablespoon of cumin seed, 2 tablespoons of five spice, 1 tablespoon of ground cinnamon, 1 tablespoon of turmeric, 1 tablespoon of lemon zest, 1 teaspoon of black peppercorns, ½ teaspoon of sea salt and ½ teaspoon of cayenne pepper.

Ronnies – Tel: 01454 411137 www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk 51

> flavour

al fresco dining

Alfresco Dining When it comes to making the most of the clement weather, British people are some of the most willing (and courageous!) al fresco diners around. If the sun does come out to play in the coming weeks, don your most stylish shades and try our selection of tranquil sun traps…

WHEELWRIGHTS ARMS, MONKTON COMBE

THE SQUARE, BRISTOL

With over 80 seats to choose from in this beautiful terraced garden overlooking Midford Valley, the Wheelwrights Arms offers the perfect sanctuary to eat in comfort and style. Shade is provided by parasols during the warmer hours and outdoor lighting for the evening makes an intimate setting for a postwork drink and a bite to eat.

Recently voted the 'Best outside dining in Bristol', The Square’s terrace is secretly positioned at the rear of the club and is accessible through the lower deck. Quirky wooden furniture, outdoor art and relaxing music make this space a sea of tranquility in the city.

T: 01225 722287 W: www.wheelwrightsarms.co.uk

T: 01179 210455 W: www.thesquareclub.com

THE PUMP HOUSE, BRISTOL

AIÓ, BATH This new Italian in Bath offers diners the perfect outdoor setting to eat in a relaxed and charming atmosphere. Whether you opt for tapas over a glass of wine or a coffee and a chat, Aió makes you feel at home. For private parties you can hire the pretty courtyard together with a BBQ and your own private chef. Authentic Mediterranean cuisine at its best. T: 01225 443900 W: www.aiorestaurant.co.uk

The Pump House, a grand old Victorian pumping station on Bristol’s harbour, has long been a favourite summer spot with its sun trap terrace and views. With head chef Toby Gritten’s award-winning food, the full range of Thatcher’s ciders and warm atmosphere, it’s an ideal venue for hosting wedding receptions, private functions, or lazy afternoon dining in the sun. T: 01179 272229 W: www.the-pumphouse.com

> flavour

al fresco dining

THE CORK, BATH Comprising two bars, a conservatory and Bath’s biggest heated terrace area, The Cork offers the ideal location to socialise and enjoy quality homemade food. With regularly changing seasonal dishes and locally sourced produce where possible, The Cork has an equally impressive drinks list to leave you suitably quenched. T: 01225 333582 W: www.thecork.co.uk

THE BLUE BOWL INN, CHEW VALLEY A stone built 18th Century building situated next to the Chew Valley Lake at the foot of the Mendip Hills offers a perfect retreat to those looking for a more traditional pub atmosphere. A large and relaxed outdoor dining space allows punters to enjoy their food and conversations with privacy and enjoyment. The space is comfortable and unpretentious enabling you to sit back, relax and enjoy the food. T: 01761 221269 W: www.thebluebowl.co.uk

THE WHEATSHEAF, COMBE HAY Summer brings out the best at The Wheatsheaf, whether that entails dining on the sun drenched terrace or enjoying a drink under a shady tree in our beautiful garden (featured in The English Garden and BBC Countryfile magazines) you’re sure to have a wonderful time. Enjoy the sun alongside their delicious summer menu containing the very best of British seasonal produce.

T: 01225 833504 W: www.wheatsheafcombehay.co.uk

THE MARLBOROUGH TAVERN, BATH Housed within a period walled courtyard, this gorgeous outside space is equally perfect for al fresco dining as it is for sipping drinks. The clever design creates a range of intimate outdoor dining ‘rooms’ and a cocktail list with an eye on sunny days provides plenty of options for summer drinking. T: 01225 423731 W: www.marlborough-tavern.com

> flavour

chef profile

> flavour

chef profile

chef profile Name: David Britton Head chef at: Palm Court Restaurant, Bristol Marriott Royal Hotel Originally from: Bristol

My father was a butcher by trade and even though he’s retired now, he still gets requests from friends and family for his homemade faggots and his cold meats at Christmas. My parents catered for wedding receptions and my culinary skills were born from there. I started with cold starters and desserts and never looked back. I’ve worked for Marriott Hotels for over ten years in Bristol, Swindon and Heathrow. I’ve also spent time in Miami and Japan as well as Kensington. My last job was at The Cavendish Hotel in London where there was a large emphasis on traditional British cooking. I loved it there and it stood me in great stead as so much of what I do now is about using fresh local produce. Joe Beaver at Heathrow Marriott really got me on the right track as a chef. I gained a lot of experience from Joe and was his sous chef before I gained my first head chef role. I really admire Gary Rhodes too – his passion and attention to detail is fantastic. We devise dishes based on what’s in

season; this enables the highest quality and freshest dishes. We are in business so we have to be practical too – we must cook what we believe will sell which means nothing too whacky that scares people off! Regularly changing menus also helps to keep both the chefs and customers on their toes.

Continuing to aim high is essential in the job. I want to develop my team so they are ready to take on more responsibilities and learn new skills. I also want to get plenty of young chefs in the kitchen. Nothing is better than working with young people who are passionate about great food.

Balancing all the priorities of the job in the correct way is the biggest challenge. For me, keeping the team engaged is very important in a large property like ours. You must ensure your chefs are well trained and understand what’s required of them, as well as making sure they have the tools to do the job. If I could dine anywhere in the world, it would have to be El Bulli in Spain. What they do there is out of this world. I’d like to think that I’d come away with tons of ideas for new dishes to try or variations that we could use. For me it would be the ultimate dining experience. On a cold day I really enjoy a good Sunday lunch with family or friends around the table with plenty of red wine. A BBQ in the summer doesn’t go amiss either. My wife Jolene is from South Africa so she loves a BBQ, even if a UK equivalent isn’t quite the same!

Bristol Marriott Royal Hotel College Green Bristol BS1 5TA 01179 255100 www.bristolmarriottroyal.co.uk

TRADE ONLY

An exclusive opportunity for British designer makers to meet selective trade buyers This event, set in the stunning Assembly Rooms, brings selected British designer makers to the heart of the heritage city of Bath.

9th â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 10th May 2010 at the Assembly Rooms, Bath For exhibiting details call Neill or Paul on 01934 733433 For visiting details call the Ticket Hotline on 01934 733456

selectatbath.co.uk

SUPPORTED BY

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to check our website for more information on events coming up this year!

Winsley, Bradford on Avon BA15 2JB [t] 01225 864948 www.hartley-farm.co.uk

flavour

drops by...

In light of a proposed 90 billion euro rescue plan to save Greece from complete financial meltdown, our romanticised image of a Continental Europe with its warmer weather, great food and leisurely pace of life is being rapidly re-evaluated. Yet look at the paradox: for a comparatively affluent nation that values work above play, we could certainly learn a thing or two from our neighbours about job satisfaction. In these countries, people will happily and proudly talk for hours about the produce they’re selling, even if it’s someone else’s produce.

source food hall and café

As with any generalisation however, there are of course exceptions. For Joe Wheatcroft, Liz Carrad and Ross Wills, the love of their jobs was such that when the business (previously Taste @ St. Nick’s) went into administration last July, they decided to join forces and take it over themselves: “As manager, Joe had started to show prospective buyers around,” recalls co-owner Liz. “We soon realised that we didn’t want to let it go, but we didn’t want to work for anyone else either, which only left us with one option really. We were all working here because we believed in the ethos, so continuing that just felt like the right thing to do.” Understandably, Joe was keen to enthuse about his first venture: “We think that the concept of a deli whose high quality ingredients can be found on the café menu is unique to central Bristol. We have really strong links with our local and organic suppliers, and although we’re not trying to wear a hair shirt, we want to sell and serve the best.” With a collective CV that includes places such as Fresh and Wild, River Station and The Real Olive Company, the trio certainly boasts a solid culinary pedigree. A combined skill set of trained fishmonger (Joe), pastry chef (Liz) and head chef (Ross) also means the day-to-day running of the deli and café is well balanced, though often juggled on busier days! The layout of the building, complete with high ceilings and stone arches makes it feel like an extension of the market, something which head chef Ross feels is integral to the menu: “Because of the informality of the setup, we want people to feel like they can just as easily pop in for a bacon sarnie or a home made cake as for a plate of the freshest oysters.” Almost a year on and there seems to be a lot of enthusiasm for what the future holds: “It certainly hasn’t all been plain-sailing, trading conditions are tough for everyone right now, but we’ve worked really hard and are finally getting to the point where we can shout about ourselves!”

The Source Café and Food Hall is open six days a week and from this month onwards, the first Sunday of the month to coincide with the Slow Food Market.

1-3 Exchange Avenue St Nicholas Market Bristol BS1 1JP 01179 272998 www.source-food.co.uk 57

Timeless

Tranquility

Northcote Manor is an independent cherished country house hotel set in 20 acres of mature woodlands, lawns and gardens overlooking the Taw River Valley. Views of rolling countryside and open sky can be fully appreciated from the croquet lawn and tennis court. The dĂŠcor of the hotel has been recently redesigned to create an atmosphere of luxury sophistication and country comfort chic so that guests can unwind and revitalize. Extravagance is positively encouraged at the hotel with offerings of luxurious fluffy bathrobes, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Occitane bath products and homemade shortbread in every room. Visitors can enjoy roaring log fires after a brisk stroll through the grounds in the winter and a warm sun terrace with a long cool drink after a meander around the fruit orchards in the summer.

Burrington, Umberleigh, North Devon

Tel: 01769 560501 www.northcotemanor.co.uk

Orangery Restaurant

A fresh dining experience! The classic Orangery glass domed ceilings and walls allow guests to take in the glorious estate views whilst enjoying fine food. All meals are freshly prepared using ingredients that are seasonal. Fresh & locally sourced often from the Tortworth Estate Farm Shop. Complimentary glass of house wine with this flyer.

at Tortworth Court Four Pillars Hotel

For bookings and further information call

01454 263000 tortworth@four-pillars.co.uk www.four-pillars.co.uk/tortworth

Tortworth,Wotton-under-Edge, South Gloucestershire, GL12 8HH

> flavour

reader review

READER R

EVIEW

THE NEW INN, Backwell BY JACQUELINE COCKER, BRISTOL What better way to celebrate the joys of spring than by sampling its delights in the appropriate setting of a country pub and dining room? So off I trotted to the New Inn at Backwell, a 20-minute drive from the centre of Bristol and, as I discovered, well worth the trek. The pub, which opened in December last year, has undergone major refurbishment on all levels and is now in the very capable hands of head chef Nathan Muir. A known figure amongst Bristol foodies (as coproprietor of the Robin Hood’s Retreat on Gloucester Road for the past four years) he continues to hammer home the use of seasonal and local produce. The setting is idyllic and a quick glance at the menu confirms Nathan’s ethos with the braised shoulder of Nailsea lamb, sautéed kidneys and salsa verde. The interior is fresh and vibrant, with subtle greens and light wood. The fresh paint smell has given way to that glorious oaky aroma of the open fire and the whole place feels cosy (I particularly liked the jars of chutneys on the shelves) but it also has a certain contemporary edge. We decided upon the garden but not before sampling some of the guest ales on offer – it is a pub as well as a restaurant after all! The à la carte menu is refined and seemingly carefully thought out. I opted for

goats’ cheese beignets with dandelion salad and apple compote (£6.50), a suitably delicate and lively starter. I watched my friend happily devour her rosy-pink pan roasted pigeon breast with spring onion and chocolate and black pudding purée. The lemon marinated trout fillet with crushed potatoes, lemon pickle and shellfish sauce (£14.00) was expertly cooked with soft, creamy flakes of fish brought to life with a citrus kick. It wouldn’t have been possible for me to finish the selection of chocolate alone and I reluctantly let my companion scoop up pieces of chocolate and salt caramel truffle, mille-feuille with peanut parfait, chocolate terrine, praline cream and a white chocolate and pecan brownie (£7.50). Our meal had us in high spirits; we had definitely ‘had sufficient’ as my grandmother would say. The waiting staff were genuinely pleased to see we had enjoyed ourselves so much and I would advise anyone to take advantage of the two courses for £15.00 and three courses for £19.50 deals available before 7.30pm. The wine list also has something to suit everyone’s taste and price range without skimping on quality. It seems that The New Inn is blossoming as much as the flowers are in its garden and whilst we haven’t yet seen the finished product, I for one can’t wait to see it in full bloom.

The New Inn 86 West Town Road Backwell Bristol BS48 3BE Tel: 01275 462199 Visit: www.newinn-backwell.co.uk Tell us about your favourite place to eat by writing to us at the usual address or emailing faye@flavourmagazine.com We'll even give you one year's free subscription for your troubles! 59

Badminton

Villa Bath We have travelled the world extensively over many years and believe that we understand exactly what our guests require at Badminton Villa. Impeccable cleanliness, good local advice, very comfortable rooms in lovely surroundings and a fantastic breakfast are our key aims. And to top it off, we boast stunning views over the city... • Ranked in the top 4 guest houses in Bath according to Trip Advisor. • Awarded a Visit Britain ‘Breakfast Award’ for 2010. • Awarded a Visit Britain ‘4 Star Silver Award’ for accomodation Please use the code BV006 when calling us.

To find out more... Badminton Villa 10 Upper Oldfield Park Bath BA2 3JZ Tel: +(0)1225 426347 Fax: +(0)1225 420393 Email: Badmintonvilla@blueyonder.co.uk Web: www.badmintonvilla.co.uk

FRUIT Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

Rhubarb purée This is a very basic recipe for purée and is great hot or cold over ice cream. For pies and crumbles, you could add a handful of hulled strawberries and some of your favourite spice. Do this just 5 minutes before the end of simmering. Makes 6-8 portions Ingredients • 450g

champagne rhubarb, sliced • 50g sugar Method 1. Put the rhubarb into a non reactive, heavy bottomed pan with the sugar. Cover and cook over a gentle heat for 15 to 20 minutes until the rhubarb is completely soft. 2. Strain over a bowl, cool and whiz in a food processor or with a hand-held blender if necessary. 3. Leave to cool, then divide into portions and serve or freeze.

Rhubarb is a relative of buckwheat and has an earthy, sour flavour. It thrives in cold climates and originated in Western China. The traditional role was medicinal – the dried root was a popular remedy for a wide range of illnesses. Its primary function was to induce vomiting and to help treat intestinal discomfort. This medicinal role caused the price of the dried root to rise. In 1542, rhubarb sold for ten times the price of cinnamon in France and in 1657, it went for over twice the price of opium in England. Only at the beginning of the 18th Century did rhubarb begin to be consumed in foods; primarily drinks and meat stews. The leaves however are extremely toxic and should never be eaten. Not only is rhubarb great for jams, pies and crumbles, this long, sour and woody vegetable (yes, it is a vegetable) is packed full of great health benefits for our little ones. If you are introducing it for the first time because of its acidity try serving with other, sweeter fruits like strawberries, pears or apples. Small amounts of sugar will take away the sharpness from the fruit as well. Rhubarb is a great source of Vitamin C and calcium. It contains potassium, which is good for your heart and boosts the metabolism. It is also said to have antibacterial and anti-fungal properties

Recipes taken from Cooking for Coco by kind permission of Carroll and Brown Publishers Limited.

and may help fight off infections. It helps inhibit cholesterol production and may lower LDL cholesterol. As it is high in photo chemicals, it can prevent blood clots by reducing the stickiness in blood, which in turn may reduce the risk of strokes and heart attacks. Available from February to June, rhubarb is at its peak during the spring and early summer months.

COOKING FOR COCO Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn't have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.

To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com 61

> flavour