Flavour Magazine July/August 2011 by Flavour Magazine

flavour for people who love local food

South West | Issue 42 | 2011

WIN!

reak A luxury b hurch tc is at the Chr Hotel! r u o b r Ha

Steak Out Enjoy a cut above the rest www.flavourmagazine.com

SPICE IT UP!

A guaranteed heat wave from Levi Roots

GREEN GIANTS

Presenting this year’s organic food & drink heroes

the perfect place to

sayâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I doâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;...

he Hunt family have been involved in the hotel, restaurant and florist business for over 30 years,

individually they have owned one of the largest hotels in Weston-super-Mare, worked for some of the UK's finest chefs and provided flowers to numerous people and events. They offer the very best experience of dining, accommodation and flowers that Weston has to offer.

The family-run Oak and Glass is an officially approved venue for civil wedding ceremonies, offering an intimate venue for the smaller wedding in a delightful coastal setting.

"What can I say? Nearly a month on and we're still smiling and remembering the wonderful day we enjoyed with you"

~ Oak and Glass, 1 Uphill Road, North Weston-super-Mare BS23 4NE ~ 01934 641874 - bookings@oakandglass.co.uk ~

Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com Deputy Editor: Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com

Art Director: Richard Cook Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com

welcome

Alastair McClare, Account Manager Email: ali@flavourmagazine.com Photography: Jeni Meade, James Walker

Welcome to this issue of flavour!

Contributors: Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Jennie Clark, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Peter Swanepoel, Mitch Tonks

When Chaucer reputedly penned ‘all good things must come to an end’, he was certainly onto something. And it’s with these resonant words in mind that I write my final welcome as Editor of flavour.

Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2011 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Please recycle this product.

contents 8 In Season Tom Bowles and Peter Swanepoel cook up the best of the season’s produce 10 Green Giants Presenting this year’s organic food & drink heroes 17 WIN A luxury break at the Christchurch Harbour Hotel! 24 Spice It Up! A guaranteed heat wave from Levi Roots 32 Steak Out Enjoy a cut of above the rest

Between interviewing iconic chefs such as Michel Roux Senior and Heston Blumenthal, appearing as a judge on Gordon Ramsay’s F-Word, and of course working with the wealth of truly passionate producers in the West Country, my time on the magazine has been one that will stay with me forever. No doubt you’re wondering who will be my lucky successor. As someone who has been involved with the magazine from Issue One as a contributor and latterly as Deputy Editor, I am pleased to announce that Nick Gregory will be taking over from me. Nick has a real affinity with the countryside and a passion for real food and drink that’s hard to match – I know he’s incredibly excited to be overseeing this new era of the magazine. All that remains for me to say is thank you very much for all your support over the years and I hope you continue to enjoy flavour in Nick’s capable hands. Happy Eating! Holly Aurelius-Haddock.

> flavour news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month APP’ERTISING AID The Farm To Fork recipe App has been designed to help shoppers decide what to do with their cuts of meat and plan perfect meals. By promoting the quality and versatility of all British meat cuts, it will also be helping British farmers by getting more home-grown meat back on our plates.

THE NEW WILLY WONKA? Charlie Harry Francis, founder of Lick Me I’m Delicious, has won a £50,000 investment for his liquid nitrogen custom ice cream parlour. Charlie was awarded the money through Barclay’s Take One Small Step competition after drumming up the most public votes in the South West final. The money will be used to open his first custom nitro ice cream parlour in Bristol next summer. In the meantime he’s running round the country making ice cream creations at various events.

Available now as a free iPhone and iPad download from the iTunes App store, Farm To Fork features a comprehensive library of recipes that are delicious, easy to prepare meals that even novice cooks can get to grips with. A simple fork icon illustrates the difficulty rating, enabling shoppers to pick something quick and easy or a little more challenging for impressing friends on a Saturday night. www.vionfood.co.uk

CORNISH GOLD

Charlie has a colourful family heritage at his fingertips; his father is an ice cream maker and his mother is a fantastic baker. He combines these two skills to create delicious frozen creations, mixing ice cream with homemade tasty confectionary, bakery goodness and churning the whole thing together with liquid nitrogen!

A secret Cornish recipe for saffron cake dating back over 100 years has taken Gold at this year’s national Great Taste Awards. The Simply Cornish saffron cake was named as a coveted Three star Gold Award winner – achieved by fewer than two per cent of entrants and classed as a “Wow – you must taste this” product.

www.lickmeimdelicious.com

www.simplycornish.com

COMPETITION WINNER Congratulations to Claire McFadden from Bristol who wins dinner, bed and breakfast at The Queensberry Hotel in Bath!

BOSTON TEA PARTY The Boston Tea Party is a family owned and award-winning small West Country café chain who pride themselves on serving outstanding coffee and tea as well as creating delicious, feel good and affordable meals. They have now opened a fourth café in Bristol, on Cheltenham Road between Stokes Croft and Montpelier. They source ethically sound products from local suppliers and use only free-range meat and eggs. All the milk is 100 per cent organic and they offer either fairly traded or ‘relationship’ coffee. They are also going back to basics with the reintroduction of normal filter coffee selected by the barista to complement their already outstanding menu. The cafés are more than just places to grab a coffee and a slice of cake; they have grown into social hubs where groups, enthusiasts and artists meet to pass a few minutes…or hours. www.bostonteaparty.co.uk

Britain is undergoing the biggest revival in hen keeping since the Second World War. Nearly three quarters of a million people own a chicken coop, a rise of 80 per cent in three years according to the British Hen Welfare Trust.

The brewery is based within Tuckers Maltings in Newton Abbot, South Devon. The building is over 100 years old and is still operating at full capacity, producing 200-year-old recipes for the full flavoured ales. They believe in traditional values, using only local ingredients and local businesses to keep the food miles low.

www.teignworthybrewery.com

The boom in growing fruit and vegetables has, for 700,000 people, spilled over into keeping hens. Shed suppliers have said that sales have more than doubled in three years and as demand for coops booms, supermarkets are cashing in with their own ranges.

www.bhwt.org.uk

Established in 1994 by John and Rachel and employing six members of staff, Teignworthy Brewery can now brew up to 100 barrels of beer a week or in beer terms, 28,800 pints!

The English hops, and yeast from a secret supply, provide the brewer with quality ingredients that make the Teignworthy pint. Winter Brews consist of Harvesters (5.5%), Climate Change (5%), Maltsters Ale (5%), Pumpkin Ale (5.2%) and their four Christmas brews - don't miss their Russian Imperial Porter (13%) with whisky overtones!

MOTHERING HENS

It seems the fun of keeping hens and the prospect of freshly laid eggs for breakfast after a short stroll to the end of the garden has become more appealing than ever.

TEIGNWORTH BREWERY

NAILSEA ELECTRICAL

The ever-popular Soil Association Organic Food Festival is back in September at Bristol Harbourside. Now in its 11th year, the festival celebrates the full spectrum of organic fare with hundreds of stalls selling delicious food and drink, organic clothes and beauty products. The Organic Food Festival is a celebration of all that sustainable food and farming is and can be with over 150 organic food and drink producers, celebrity chef demos, live bands, livestock, kids’ taste experiences, gorgeous health and beauty products, organic gardening and fabulous fashion and textiles.

South West ‘Family Business Of The Year’ Nailsea Electrical has just opened a unique showroom showcasing state-ofthe-art built in kitchen appliances from the world’s top designer brands, such as Neff, Bosch and Siemens, at their new premises on Gloucester Road in Bristol. For the first time in the UK, the showroom’s 300 cutting-edge appliances including are all fully fitted and working for customers to see, touch and try before they buy. The huge range of appliances on display includes cutting edge technology such as steam ovens, induction hobs and drawer refrigerators, as well as a number of special editions from designers such as Marc Newson and Karim Rashid, previously available only in Harrods. www.nailseaelectricalonline.co.uk

www.organicfoodfestival.co.uk

> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

fab foodie reads MORO: THE COOKBOOK SAM AND SAM CLARK Ebury Press, £17.50 each

Since it was first published in 2001, Moro: the Cookbook has been one of the most talked about, praised and cherished cookbooks of its time. To celebrate the tenth anniversary of this phenomenon, Sam and Sam Clark have brought out stunning reissues of all three books, bringing Casa Moro and Moro East into paperback for the first time. In 1997, its opening year, Moro was awarded the Time Out and BBC Good Food awards for Best New Restaurant. At Moro, Sam and Sam showcase their desire to cook within the wonderful traditions of Spain, North Africa and the Eastern Mediterranean these exotic flavours come out in force in this fantastic set of cookbooks.

Pick of the Month!

IN AT THE DEEP END JAKE TILSON

THE GENTLE ART OF COOKERY LEYEL & HARTLEY

THE GREAT BRITISH BAKE OFF LINDA COLLISTER

In at the Deep End is an engaging personal story of discovery of fish cookery. Travelling from Venice to Tokyo, New York to Sweden and Aberdeen to Sydney, Jake Tilson chronicles his journey in absorbing detail. Whether cooking and eating Venetian bigoli with clams, New York crab cakes, Swedish soused herrings or Japanese sushi and sashimi, Jake effortlessly conjures up the worlds in which these dishes originated – the fishing villages and coastal landscapes, the fishermen and their boats, the markets, smoke houses and restaurants. An evocative exploration of Jake’s many experiences with fish, this delightful food memoir and recipe book catalogues his conversion to seafood obsessive. His acute eye and enticing recipes make In at the Deep End a book to be read, savoured, and, above all, enjoyed.

Part of a striking upheaval in attitudes to food and cooking between the wars, this book was published to immediate success in 1921, providing a level of detail that was unusual among its contemporaries, while inspiring its readers with its daring recipe selection. With chapters entitled ‘Dishes from the Arabian Nights’, ‘The Alchemist’s Cupboard’, and a startlingly original chapter of ‘Flower Recipes’, this book can’t help but capture the imagination of even the most jaded of recipe readers.

The Great British Bake Off: How to Bake the Perfect Victoria Sponge and other Baking Secrets accompanies the new eight-part series of the hugely popular Great British Bake Off on BBC2. If your Victoria sponge seems a bit dense, or your pastry is a doughy disaster then this is the book for you with expert advice and tips from The Great British Bake Off judges and the ‘best’ of the bake off recipes from the contestants. There are over 120 recipes and they range from Mary’s Coffee and Walnut Battenburg and Tarte au Citron to Paul’s Pork Pies with Quails’ Eggs. However this book isn’t just a collection of recipes. It also covers the essentials of baking – the techniques, terms and ingredients to help your baking taste, look and smell better than ever.

Quadrille, £20

Quadrille, £14.99

BBC Books, £20

> flavour in season

>Blackberries The Blackberry season runs from July to early November. These can be difficult fruit to grow since the long canes need very careful training, and inclement weather can damage fruit or let disease obtain a hold. Thorns can be a problem with some varieties; and surprisingly to some people, many varieties are not very hardy. We tend to think of blackberries as being semi-wild and therefore as tough as nails. This is not always so. Blackberries are very responsive to sheltered conditions, and some will not stand up to a particularly cold wet winter. Blackberries are more highly prized as a food in Britain and Northern Europe than anywhere else in the world. Keep blackberries dry and cool and eat within a day or two. Blackberries freeze well and it's a good idea to get a few bags in the freezer to use with apples in puddings throughout the winter.

BLACKBERRY AND COFFEE CRÈME Serves 5 Pre heat oven to 150°C. Bring 550ml cream and a vanilla pod to a simmer and remove from heat. In a separate bowl mix together 8 egg yolks, 100ml castor sugar, 50 ml strong coffee and pour the warmed cream over the egg mix. Transfer to ramekins and add 50g of blackberries to each ramekin. Cook in a water bath in the oven for 40 minutes until the custard has set. Remove from oven and cool.

At their best We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Pieter Swanepoel from Cavendish Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

right

>Peaches Peaches get softer and juicier after picking, but they only develop flavour and sweetness on the tree. Choose fruit that yield slightly to pressure: firmish fruit are fine but hard fruit should be avoided. The amount and depth of pink coverage on the skin varies and does not signify ripeness, but any sign of green reveals fruit that has been picked prematurely. Smell is also a very good indicator of the level of flavour. Firm peaches can be kept at room temperature until soft (storing in a paper bag will accelerate this process). Soft fruit can be refrigerated to help maintain their condition but very ripe peaches go from peak to past rapidly and need eating as soon as possible which should not be too much of a problem. 8

BLACK PEPPER AND ROSEMARY WITH POACHED PEACHES Serves 4 Cut four peaches into quarters and remove the stone. Bring 400ml water, 300g sugar, 5g cracked black pepper, 1 sprig of rosemary, 1 bay leaf and juice of 1 lemon to the boil. Turn the heat down to simmer and add the peaches. Continue simmering on low heat until almost soft. Cool in stock before serving with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

> flavour in season

>Fennel Look for bright white, unblemished, firm bulbs that feel heavy for their size. The cut ends of the stalks should look fresh and not dried out and the cut bottom of the bulb shouldn't have more than a trace of browning at most. Much like a liquorice-flavoured celery, fennel is crisp and crunchy with a pronounced flavour when raw. Cooked fennel has a much milder anise flavour and a soft, unstringy texture. The stalks grow from a white onion-like bulb. All parts are edible, although the mild, tender bulb is most commonly used and served. Store loosely wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge but be careful not to let it get too cold. Like lettuce and celery, fennel's high water content makes it prone to freezing in overly-cold fridges. Fennel fresh from the farmers’ market will keep up to 10 days.

FENNEL RÉMOULADE Serves 4 Finely slice 2 bulbs of fennel and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add 2g sea salt, 1 tbsp chopped shallots, 1 tbsp chopped capers, zest and juice of a lemon and 1 tbsp of chopped chives. Mix thoroughly and bind the mixture with 50ml buttermilk. Season to taste and serve with grilled mackerel.

For more information contact: www.lfm.org.uk www.twitter.com/londonfarmers

now >Tomatoes The British tomato’s (a fruit btw) season runs from June to October and the sooner you eat a ripe tomato after it's been picked, the better it will taste, so try to seek out locally-grown tomatoes if possible. Leafy tops are a good sign of freshness and should be perky, rather than wilted. Avoid any tomatoes that show signs of mould. The type of tomato you grow or buy depends on what you intend to do with it;: Beefsteak tomatoes for grilling or stuffing, cherry tomatoes for roasting, salads or sauces, plum tomatoes for stews, green tomatoes for salads and yellow ones for salsas and chutneys. Chilling tomatoes mutes their flavour so, unless they are very ripe, they should be stored at room temperature.

SPICY TOMATO CHUTNEY In a medium pot lightly sweat down one large onion (finely chopped), two cloves of garlic, half a chilli and a tsp of fennel seeds. Add 200g demerara sugar, 1kg chopped tomatoes, 125ml red wine vinegar and 75 ml white wine. Simmer on a low heat until most of the liquid has evaporated. Transfer to a kilner jar and cool. 9

green giants

Now in their 23rd year, the Soil Association Organic Food Awards are the most prestigious and widely respected in the organic sector, recognising and celebrating the contribution organic food producers make to the food and farming industry. Over three days at the Duke of Cambridge organic pub in London, an expert judging panel of 35 food critics, broadcasters and chefs applied their culinary expertise and finely attuned tastebuds to nearly 400 products – here’s a taste of our favourites… Abel & Cole: Chioggia Beetroot Abel & Cole is an organic box scheme that’s been around for over 20 years. Keith Abel started delivering potatoes door to door in 1988, then, with help from a couple of organic farmers, branched out into a vegetable box scheme in the early ‘90s. Last year they asked vegetable grower John Danby to plant some Golden and Chioggia Beetroot and it has proved to be an instant success. www.abelandcole.co.uk

Grove Fresh: Organic Traditional Lemonade Grove Fresh Ltd was founded in 1994, known as Grove Fresh from 1996. It is now an established business in the UK, selling delicious, pure, organic fruit juices. In 2010 they added new products to their range, one of them being the winning product, Organic Traditional Lemonade. www.grovefresh.co.uk

Tideford Organics: Butterscotch Rice Pudding Tideford Organics have been producing award-winning organic soups, sauces and desserts for over 14 years. They have one of the few Soil Association accredited factories in the UK and are very proud to have won the prestigious award for the Butterscotch Rice Pudding, a delicious blend of organic South West milk and cream with golden syrup and cane sugar made in the traditional way with no additives or preservatives. www.tidefordorganics.com

Higher Hacknell Farm: Cottage Pie

Duchy Originals: Oat and Apple Porridge

Even as beautiful farms go, Higher Hacknell Farm has got something special, situated in a secluded setting between Dartmoor and Exmoor. The business was built around selling all the produce direct – at farmers’ markets and through mail order. The animals are born, raised and butchered on the farm, while the feed is grown there and the bones of the animals are used for the stock in their prepared meals. The cottage pie stands out because everything is done by hand.

When The Prince of Wales moved to the Highgrove estate in Gloucestershire in the ‘80s, he began the process of converting the Duchy Home Farm – part of the estate – to an entirely organic agricultural system. Duchy Originals and Waitrose recently came together to help make the most of each other's expertise and grow the range to cover even more areas. The Oat and Apple porridge uses a combination of British jumbo and cut porridge oats, including oats grown on Duchy Home Farm. It also has a helping of apple that makes a satisfying creamy porridge. What's more, the porridge is made on the Duchy of Cornwall Estate, Poundbury, in the heart of Dorset.

www.higherhacknell.co.uk

www.duchyoriginals.com

The Bertinet Bakery: Sourdough Bertinet Sourdough is made using traditional French techniques to Richard Bertinet’s own recipe, honed over his 30-year baking career. The simplest of ingredients - just good flour, salt and water, are transformed into the most beautiful and flavoursome bread with time and skill. Richard's recipe produces a mild, almost sweet sour flavour that most people prefer to the acquired taste of a blow-your-headoff sharpness. Hand-moulding the loaves, proving them in linen-lined baskets and baking them on the oven floor produces a distinctive round loaf with a beautifully thick, caramelised crust. www.bertinet.com

Brocklebys: Chicken and Ham Pie

Tea Palace opened one shop in Notting hill and since then have grown, selling products in department stores, five-star hotels and Michelin star restaurants. Detox Herbal Infusion has active, proven ingredients that help cleanse the body and it's proven to be a real success. They source all ingredients separately and carefully and only when they have the very best ingredients do they infuse them together in small batches by hand.

Brocklebys are farmers, butchers and pie makers who farm Hebridean Sheep and Longhorn Cattle on the Nottinghamshire/Leicestershire border near Melton Mowbray, making the world's only organic Melton Mowbray pork pie. They were asked by Abel & Cole to make an organic chicken and ham pie, handmade and baked free standing. It has a succulent meaty texture infused with sage, while the taste of the chicken contrasts nicely with the cured ham and the pastry adds a crunch. The jelly is made from the pigs’ trotters adding another porky dimension.

www.teapalace.co.uk

www.brocklebys.co.uk

Tea Palace: Detox Herbal Infusion

> flavour martin blunos

I was I’m a big fan of rapeseed oil and champion its qualities and local provenance. So it was great to be invited to see the harvest and process that gets those tiny black seeds, from the bright yellow flowers, to release the prized golden oil. I was lucky, along with Lance, my wing man form the restaurant, to be shown the whole shebang from field to bottle by the energetic and knowledgeable Charlie Beldam of Cotswold Gold. His business is growing year on year and Charlie knows everything there is to know about rapeseed oil. Not only does he work on the family farm in Stanton near Broadway up in Worcestershire, which also grows wheat, beans and even, (not a farmed crop, I might add)

As the old saying goes, ‘all that glitters is not gold’, but this month Martin Blunos might just disagree...

wild strawberries, a few of which Charlie’s mum found in the farmhouse garden for us to enjoy with an alfresco lunch after the tour, he also promotes his oil at shows around the country. Arriving at East Lodge Farm it was straight on with the tour. Harvested seeds were weighed, checked, sampled and then tipped into a corkscrew hopper that carried them to silos from where they are sieved of their chaff then conveyored to a storage shed. Then it was a short trip past fields of near ripe wheat on either side of us – the next crop to be harvested after the rapeseed – and back to the farm’s weighbridge with a trailer full of freshly harvested seeds. The crop had been part harvested by the two combines that were busy

cutting through the swathes of rape. It didn’t take much persuading to get us in the cab of each monster of a machine; after all we are West Country boys. Fun over and expecting to see a massive rumbling contraption of cogs and grinding stones, like those I’ve seen in flourmills, it was a surprise when Charlie ushered us into his pressing, filtering, bottling and labelling plant. Perhaps plant is the wrong word, it’s actually a converted part of the now defunct dairy (the farm’s previous life involved cattle). The two presses can run 24/7 and are barely bigger than domestic mincer attachments for your Kenwood – and just as quiet. They are fed the black seeds by a hopper from above and the golden oil dribbles constantly. It is

then stored in large stainless steel vats to settle before being filtered, bottled and labelled – a job now done by an awesome looking piece of kit. In the early days it was all done by Charlie’s fair hand on the dining room table, which on the day it gave way (a couple of hundred bottles of oil being too much for it to bear), and after a cleanup operation he was relegated to the old dairy. He is now developing flavoured rape oils – the dill and the smoked being particular favourites of mine. The end result of 2011’s harvest was brilliant. I, for one, am now more educated and aware of what goes into producing the contents of the funky labelled bottle that is ‘Cotswold gold’! www.cotswoldgold.co.uk

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 13

Style & Glamour ~ like you have never seen... Elan Spa is now open at The Greenway Spa Hotel and it’s putting the spa back into Cheltenham! It has been unveiled as the place to be in Cheltenham. Its decor takes inspiration from its Cotswold location, the perfect combination of rural chic and absolute glamour.

Facilities include: • Three stylish treatment rooms • A stunning 8.2 x 6 metre hydrotherapy pool • A state-of-the-art fitness suite • A studio for fitness and relaxation classes • A thermal suite including a sauna, steam room and sanarium • Experience showers • A Kubel Dusche • An alfresco hot-tub • All day dining in the relaxed restaurant and terrace. • The “Sparkle” – Champagne nail bar and retail area

✣ Really Romantic Spa Break: We are also offering flavour Magazine readers a unique opportunity to experience a really romantic stay that includes: one night’s accommodation, a bottle of Champagne, use of the spa facilities, full body massage for two, three course à la carte dinner for two and full English breakfast. This special break starts at £187.50 per person. Please quote “Flavour” when making your reservation.

~ For more information telephone 01242 862352 or visit www.thegreenway.co.uk ~

Beautiful DORSET

With hundreds of well-known producers, many exceptional hotels and a coastline and scenery to wow even the most hardened of traveller, Dorset is a country in a county. Come and explore its eclectic charms and find a new paradise among its rolling hills, shingle shores and inticing coves. This is an area to be devoured and savoured. Enjoy...

w h e r e t o e a t, s t a y & e n j o y

for a wonderful feast... he beautiful, bohemian Feast of Dorset food festival makes a welcome return on the weekend of 17 and 18 September 2011 with a host of celebrity chefs and fun-filled foodie activities for all the family.

In its first year, Feast of Dorset won the accolade of the Independent Magazine’s Best UK Food Festival award 2009, recommended by renowned chef Mark Hix. It has since built on this foundation to flourish into its third year and attract top chefs to form an impressive line-up. Celebrity chefs performing in the AGA Rangemaster Theatre include the Telegraph’s Rose Prince, Masterchef’s Jez Barfoot and Mat Follas, Bib Gourmand accredited Matt Davey, ‘chef to the Royals’ Darren Blunden and Dorset’s favourite chef Lesley Waters with recipes from her new book. Award winning Anna Del Conte will be hosting a special chocolate pasta demonstration with her granddaughter, Coco (13). If you have a culinary conundrum you’ll be able to get the answer from the experts, including Tamasin Day Lewis at the popular Q&A session. Tucked away in 14 acres of enchanting gardens, the harvest celebration will fill the grounds of historic Deans Court with over 100 food stalls including new company on the block, From Dorset with Love, who has already won two 16

Great Taste Awards in its first year of business for its charming chutneys and Dorset deli Badger & Bumble, selling sumptuous oysters.

Premium sponsor, Colten Care, will be hosting cupcake-making in their interactive area and wine sponsor, Tempus Two, has exclusively chosen Feast of Dorset for its UK launch. Festival attractions include beekeeping, archery, artisan and food stalls, falconry, tours of the kitchen and herb gardens, Chinese tea ceremonies, chocolate making, cheese marquee, pit roast, the Garden Room restaurant, traditional English teas and much, much more! Tickets cost £8 (£7 concessions) with children under 16 free. For more information visit: www.feastofdorset.co.uk

ER READ R E OFF

Harbour hotels

reinventing the british seaside...

renched in natural beauty, history and culture, the Harbour Hotels Collection offers views and surrounding areas that can rival any Mediterranean destination. With hotels dotted along the south coast, the Harbour Hotels Collection boasts four incredible waterside havens, all with one thing in common – simply breath-taking views - and a boutique Dorset hideaway. Reinventing the great British seaside break, with chic coastal retreats that are perfectly placed to soak up every inch of the glistening views, luxury Harbour Spas, fine dining experiences and pure seaside serenity – the Harbour Hotels Collection offers incredible destinations and unforgettable experiences.

Long gone are the days where a seaside holiday involved a donkey ride, “kiss me quick” hat and a bucket and spade. Now you can explore the south coast in complete style and comfort, whether you’re seeking exhilaration or peaceful seclusion, at each of the Hotels you will find yourself in the perfect location. Offering bespoke breaks to suit all ages and desires, couples can enjoy total tranquil seclusion

and escape from the outside world, as families explore the local seas and shores, with a holiday that’s packed full of adventure. Waking up to the dazzling waterside scenery, to drinking in the views over dinner, the restaurants across the collection all share one simple food philosophy – keep it fresh, seasonal and bursting with local flavour. With daily landed seafood, carefully reared meat and the extremely fresh products at their fingertips, this is seaside food at its finest.

If you are not one of our lucky winners, you could still save on a luxury stay at any of Harbour Hotel in Dorset, Devon and Cornwall with our special offer, paying from £99** per room, per night for dinner, bed and full traditional breakfast. Choose your break from the following delightful hotels: Christchurch Harbour, Dorset - Harbourside spa retreat with spectacular views across Mudeford Quay. From £130** per room per night.

The Kings, Christchurch, Dorset. Boutique hotel in the town centre overlooking the bowling green and ancient Priory.

Waking up to dazzling views over to the harbour; walking to the sugar-almond coloured beach huts on Hengistbury Head, or hiding away from the rain with a holistic treatment at the luxurious Harbour Spa is all possible at Christchurch Harbour Hotel.

From £99** per room per night.

Overlooking a beautiful stretch of water with sparkling wide views of Mudeford Quay, the Harbour Restaurant, with its spectacular views, serves exceptional flavours from the landscape and waters of Dorset, and with a few steps across the lawn, literally perched on the water’s edge, is The Jetty; Alex Aitken’s renowned neighbourhood grill, which serves superb seafood landed locally each day.

From £99** per room per night.

T: 01202 483434 www.christchurch-harbour-hotel.co.uk

Salcombe Harbour, Devon. Positioned to make the most of every inch of the estuary views.

Sidmouth Harbour, Devon. Formerly The Westcliff Breathtaking panoramic views of the red cliffs of Sidmouth and Lyme Bay. From £99** per room per night

St Ives Harbour, Cornwall. Formerly The Porthminster - Perched directly above the beach and overlooking the clear waters of St Ives Bay. From £99** per room per night.

WIN! A luxury spa break in Dorset The stunning Grade II-listed Christchurch Harbour Hotel & Spa is perfectly positioned in Mudeford near the historic town of Christchurch, and is ideal for some TLC and re-charging your batteries. Our winner and a guest will enjoy two nights’ luxury accommodation, full English breakfast each morning, a three-course dinner on the first evening and 2 one-hour spa treatments.

For a chance to win, just tell us To enter, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, telephone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

For more details or to book please call 0844 272 7000 quoting Flavour Magazine. For information about all five hotels, please visit: www.harbourhotels.co.uk *Prize valid until March 31, 2012, excluding Christmas, New Year and Valentine’s Day and subject to availability. **Offer (based on two sharing a Standard double/twin room) valid until 22nd December 2011, excluding Half Terms and subject to the availability of allocated rooms. Supplement of £10 pp for Friday and Saturday night stays. Single occupancy rate also available.

t's the height of summer and it’s barbeque season and that means cider! The thirst quenching range from Lyme Bay Winery includes Scrumpy, Vintage and Lyme Bay Sparkling – all deliciously fruity, full flavoured and refreshing. Using pressed juice of locally grown apple varieties such as Dabinett, Kingston Black and Yarlington Mill the range of ciders really is of the highest quality. The Scrumpy was voted Best Speciality Product in The South West at The Great Taste Awards 2009, winning 3 Gold stars.

LymeBay

New from the Winery is Quince wine – gorgeous chilled, refreshingly off-dry with aromatic flavours of pear, lemon, honey and apple - a perfect partner to chilled apple pie and clotted cream.

winery

ER READ R E OFF

Enter the discount code FLAVOUR002 online to receive a 10% discount on all Lyme Bay Winery products, or visit the shop at The Winery, Shute, Nr Axminster, Devon EX13 7PW. Available until 31 August 2011.

Also new from the Winery are two Liqueurs – Blueberry Reserve Liqueur and Strawberry Liqueur – both great straight up, over ice or mixed with soda to make a lovely cool long drink.

T: 01297 551 355 ~ www.lymebaywinery.co.uk

Wan Ling Tea House

www.wanlingteahouse.com 18

an Ling Tea House is a familyrun business that has its roots in China but another home in the UK, uniting tea lovers from the East and the West. They operate from their online sales and food outlets from their base in Blandford, Dorset. Wan Ling Tea has been invited back to the beautiful hidden rose garden at The Feast of Dorset Festival in September, where they will be offering a place to relax and the opportunity to take part in a ceremony workshop and drink cups of magical teas.

Wan Ling Tea House focuses on specialist teas that are usually produced in small batches by farmers or specialist Indian tea estates. As well as the common teas such as Long Jing Green Tea, Darjeeling, Assam, Keemun black tea, Fujian Oolong tea, Jasmine Green tea pearls and Yunnan teas, they also offer rare and unknown varieties such as Tie Guan Yin Oolong tea, TaiPing HouKui green tea, Yunnan PuEr Teas, GuangXi Liu Bao black tea, Indian Nilgiri tea and many more.

They stock a wide spectrum of teas from light and delicate white and green teas, through to a wide range of light and dark oolong teas, to black teas from Indian and China. They also have unusual and tasty PuEr teas that are post-fermented and aged for a unique and complex brew.

25%

As a Three Gold Star award DISC winner, Wan Ling Tea OUN WHE House offers a wide N YO T U EN ‘FL T selection of Chinese and AT T AVOUR’ ER HE CHE ONLINE Indian teas as well as CKO UT! generations of knowledge and experience to suit all tea lovers and enthusiasts, while at the same time offering produce and wares that will develop and educate to the wonderful world of teas.

hotelGrosvenor colours, painted floorboards, stone fireplaces, dramatic modern art and contemporary lighting. The very popular 'Chef's Table' allows guests the opportunity to have a direct insight into Mark's kitchen while the private dining room, with its own fireplace, offers an ideal setting for an intimate dinner or meeting.

Each bedroom is individually decorated in a contemporary style with gorgeous curtains, giant headboards and crisp white 100 per cent Italian cotton linen, and the bathrooms and shower rooms are

otel Grosvenor is a beautiful listed building with an imposing and elegant Georgian facade situated in the heart of Shaftesbury. It overlooks the bustle of the main street and has easy access to the shops and sights of the historic Saxon hilltop town. Hotel Grosvenor has been totally restored and renovated to offer contemporary bedrooms and a stunning restaurant, The Greenhouse, serving a modern menu of locally sourced food.

bar open directly onto the beautiful central courtyard garden with raised evergreen borders, stocked with crafted boxes, grasses and olive trees, and lit at night by firefly lights.

During the summer, the terrace has a wonderfully tranquil feel and is open all day serving breakfasts, morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, as well as being the most perfect place to relax with a drink. Hotel Grosvenor has it all; 16 luxury bedrooms, an elegant first-floor ballroom for private hire, The Greenhouse, complete with private dining room, an intimate drawing room, a courtyard terrace and the hotel bar for a chic and jazzy place to meet. This all makes for a perfect point of relaxation and indulgence in the stunning town of Shaftesbury. High Street Shaftesbury Dorset SP7 8JA T: 01747 850580 www.hotelgrosvenor.com

Award-winning Michelin star chef Mark Treasure heads up the Greenhouse. A Dorset man, Mark has previously worked in London hotels and restaurants such as The Capital Hotel, Mirabelle Restaurant, Cafe Royal and Langanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brasserie. He brings years of experience and is committed to bringing local produce, livestock, fish and game to the table to share what he describes as 'traditional European food for the modern palate'. The light and airy L-shaped 70-cover restaurant features a warm combination of

beautifully equipped and have powerful rain showers, large fluffy towels and Temple Spa bath products, while the larger bathrooms offer oversized freestanding baths. Decorated in stylish, funky colours with contemporary lighting, the downstairs bar offers an elegant and fashionable place to meet for morning coffee, a glass of champagne or a fabulous cocktail prepared by one of the passionate and dedicated members of staff. French doors from the 19

> flavour ask a chef

askachef: on Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie’s and The Muset by Ronnie. His distinguished career has seen him work in some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe, for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Schooled in classic French techniques, Ron’s modern European cooking style is underpinned with a passion for using the very best seasonal ingredients.

I want to try ricotta in sweet dishes but am unsure - does it lend itself to desserts? Isabella Morton, Bath

Ricotta lends itself perfectly to puddings and sweet things. It is often used in baking and has lemon added to it. I love to make a ricotta cream and serve it with poached fruits. Stone fruit are all in season, peaches, apricot, greengage and plums. Try poaching one of them in a little stock syrup with lavender and serving it with whipped ricotta sweetened and spiced with vanilla.

How would you go about making savoury ice cream and what would you flavour it with? Jaime Gardener, Taunton A savoury ice cream can add a whole new dimension to a dish, contrasting hot, cold and texture in the right hands. However it is more likely to end up a disaster than a hit. John Campbell had a hit with roasted beef and onion ice cream, which was a million miles from the butternut ice cream I was served with my treacle tart in the local pub!

I have been tasked with bringing a salad to a friend’s barbecue. What can I do to impress the other guests? Dominic Smith, Cheltenham

The chances are the BBQ is going to be a meat affair, so why not add a new dimension by bringing a little fish into the equation? Flake some smoked mackerel with cooked beetroot wedges, add a few peppery leaves like rocket and watercress and some cooked Orecchiette or a similar small shaped pasta. Dress it with a little horseradish cream and vinaigrette, which can be kept on the side to help preserve the leaves.

I really enjoy a glass of rosé wine in summer but am finding them all a bit sweet. Can you recommend a dry rosé to suit my palate? Anna Louise Palmer, Weston super Mare

Look to rosé from Southern Provence, for a dry, fruity rose with gentle tannins, not as sweet as the wines coming from Spain and the rest of the new world. My choice of a dry rosé for the restaurants is Chateau St Baillon, Cote de Provence, available from Great Western Wine in Bath.

My mint is growing like crazy in the garden - ideas please! Charlotte Morgan, Devon

There are only so many jars of mint sauce you can make, right? Why not try and drink it, start with Mojitos. Crush mint leaves with brown sugar, add a squeezed lime, crushed ice and generous splash of white rum. Top it up with soda water and drink to your hearts content. The next day you can sooth away the excesses with some mint tea. Pour some boiling water over a generous cup full of leaves, add a little honey and lemon then enjoy.

Ronnie’s of Thornbury 01454 411137 ~ The Muset by Ronnie 01179 737248 ~ www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

> flavour the daily meal

welcome to the daily meal Hearing about a fresh and exciting take on the traditional deli, flavour headed into the heart of Bristol to check out The Daily Meal... Having found a juicy spot on Gloucester Road, Bristol, trained chefs Karen and Elad opened the doors of The Daily Meal to the City in April, a charcuterie and café fusing the influences of French and Middle Eastern cuisine. Israeli born and raised, Karen and Elad learned their trade working in top French restaurants in Tel Aviv, from where their love of the charcuterie was founded. The majority of the produce is prepared by Elad on the premises, from the pâté de campagne, jambon de Paris or the gravlax, to the salt beef – the house specialty of traditional three-week wet-cured beef brisket in Elad’s secret brine – an absolute delight. “We believe that local food from the South West and British meats can be made into fine quality foods”, Elad says, “and we use the best cuts of meat and the freshest fish we can source.” That in itself may lend to a hefty price tag on these delicacies, but that’s not the case at The Daily Meal. “If we are buying our produce from the local area why should we charge prices that would make it appear as if they had come from Argentina?”, says Karen, “We charge an acceptable price to our customers because we want them to

come back and know they are getting value for their money.” Sitting outside with a charcuterie or sea platter (both at just £6.45) is testament to that, while picking up a takeaway gravlax sandwich of homemade pickled organic salmon – Norway style from Dan the fishmonger up the road– with horseradish sauce, rocket and fennel (£4) allows the most frugal of diners the opportunity to sample great food without having to arrange unforeseen borrowing. Definitely order the handshredded rillette by the way – you can’t put a price tag on that. Customers are not only getting plenty of beef for their buck, they are also getting a wealth of creativity, knowledge and transparency that is at the heart of The Daily Meal. The competition on Gloucester Road is healthy, with a plethora of cafés, restaurants, pubs and delis running from top to bottom, but Karen and Elad have crafted a unique enclave here that makes them stand out from the rest. Approach Elad about his produce, his influences, his methods and techniques and he is like a teenager talking about Harry Potter. There is fervour, intoxication and above all emotion; this is a man who loves what he does and

wants to share that with others. Yes, you may not be able to digest it all in one sitting, but as with J K Rowling’s creation, you can come back again to soak up what you may have missed first up. The Daily Meal is a deli with a difference. The produce is imaginative and prepared on site with skill and thought, the service is easy and the place is a simple venture of wonder and charm. It sits well on Gloucester Road, delivering a unique taste of the country to this vibrant community and, although this summer saw the end of Harry Potter (he doesn’t actually perish), it’s only the beginning for Karen and Elad’s Daily Meal.

The Daily Meal 18 Gloucester Road Bishopston Bristol BS7 8AE 07791 862563 Facebook: The Daily Meal Charcuterie & Cafe Email: sunandfood@gmail.com 23

Never mind the occasional summer downpour, because this month Levi Roots brings some Caribbean sunshine and spice to your kitchen. Here he shares his favourite recipes which promise to transform the most simple of dishes into tasty triumphs bursting with flavour - enjoy!

Spice it up!

SUNSHINE BAKED SWEET POTATOES WITH SPICY SAUSAGE Perfect for those evenings when you just want a baked potato, this is like having your breakfast and supper all in one. You can use bacon instead of sausage if you prefer, and leave out the cheese if you’re not keen on it – but don’t leave out the chilli! Serves 2 Ingrediants 2 large sweet potatoes, about 300–350g (10½–12oz) each 40g (1½oz) butter 2 spicy pork sausages, chopped into 2cm (¾in) chunks ½ small onion, finely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 30g (1oz) Cheddar cheese, grated 1½ tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander (optional) salt and black pepper 2 small eggs cayenne pepper, to garnish

Method 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (fan)/200°C/gas mark 6. Wash the sweet potatoes, then set them directly on the oven shelf or in a small roasting tin and bake for about 50 minutes until tender right through the centre – test by inserting a sharp pointed knife. 2 While the potatoes are cooking, heat 25g (1oz) of the butter in a frying pan until foaming. Add the sausage and onion and cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, for about 8 minutes until the onion is soft and golden and the sausage is cooked through. Add the chilli and cook, stirring, for another minute. 3 When the potatoes are tender, halve them lengthways without cutting all the way through the skin, so that the potato halves are ‘hinged’ together. Carefully scoop out the flesh, leaving a thick layer intact so that the skins do not collapse, and mash the flesh in a bowl. Mix the fried onion and sausage, Cheddar, coriander (if using) and salt and pepper into the sweet potato mash. 4 Pile the mash back into the potato halves. Make a little hollow on top of each potato half. Carefully break an egg into each hollow. Season with salt and pepper and add a knob of the remaining butter to each potato. 5 Place the potatoes on a baking tray and return to the oven. Bake for 15 minutes or until the eggs have set. Sprinkle each baked egg with a little salt and cayenne pepper to garnish and serve immediately.

These zingy fishcakes will give you a morning boost!

WAKE-UP FISHCAKES Makes 4 Ingrediants 200g (7oz) floury potatoes (such as King Edwards), peeled and cut into large chunks 500g (1lb 2oz) skinless white fish fillet, such as cod, haddock or pollock 50g (1¾oz) dry breadcrumbs 1 red chilli, deseeded and finelychopped 3 tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander 3 spring onions, green parts only, finely chopped 2.5cm (1in) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated ½ garlic clove, finely chopped (optional) finely grated rind of 1½ limes salt 1 large egg, beaten 2 tbsp lime juice 1–2 tbsp olive oil

To serve 4 lime wedges mixed leaf salad (optional

Method 1 Put the potato chunks into a saucepan of water and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes or until tender. Drain well. 2 If you have a steamer, steam the fish in it above the simmering water of the potatoes – the fish is cooked when the flesh just flakes when tested with the tip of a knife. Otherwise, while the potatoes are cooking, poach the fish in a saucepan of gently simmering water or milk for about 5 minutes (or cook in a microwave). Leave the fish to cool slightly, and when cool enough to handle, check it for bones and break into rough flakes. Put the breadcrumbs on a plate. 3 Mash the potatoes and then mix with the chilli, coriander, spring onion greens, ginger, garlic (if using), lime rind and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the beaten egg to the mixture to bind it. 4 Pour the lime juice over the flaked fish, then sprinkle on a little salt and gently stir it around with your fingers to season the fish well. 5 Gently stir the flaked fish into the potato mixture. Form into 4 fishcakes, about 4–5cm (1½–2in) thick. Pat them on both sides with the breadcrumbs, then put on a clean plate, cover loosely and leave in the fridge for 30 minutes to firm up a little. 6 Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium–low heat. Add the fishcakes and cook for about 3 minutes on each side until the outside is nicely brown and they are hot all the way through. Serve with lime wedges and, if having them for lunch or supper, a salad. 25

CHICKEN, CITrUS & POmEGrANATE SAlAD WITH CHIllI-HONEY DrESSING Serves 8 Ingrediants 1 tbsp olive oil 4 skinless chicken breast fillets, about 150g (5½oz) each salt and black pepper 4 small oranges 2 ruby grapefruit 1 yellow grapefruit 1 small red onion, peeled leaves from a generous bunch of mint 1 pomegranate, halved For the dressing 4 tsp white wine vinegar, or to taste 4 tsp clear honey, or to taste salt and black pepper 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, or to taste 1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped Method 1 First make the dressing. Mix the vinegar, honey and salt and pepper to taste together in a shallow serving bowl. Whisk in the extra virgin olive oil with a fork and then add the chilli. Taste for the balance of vinegar to oil and sweet to sour, and adjust if necessary. 2 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium–high heat. Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper, add to the pan and cook on each side so that they get a good colour. Reduce the heat to medium–low and cook for about 3 minutes on each side until they are done all the way through – cut into the thickest part of the chicken to check that it is white rather than pink in the middle. Set the chicken aside while you make the rest of the dish. 3 Treat all the citrus fruit in the same way. Cut a small slice off the top and bottom and set the fruit on a chopping board. Using a very sharp knife, cut off the rind and as much of the white pith as possible, working from top to bottom and all the way around each fruit. Now you can either cut out each segment of fruit by slicing down between the flesh and the membrane, or, if this seems too much like hard work, cut each piece of fruit crossways into slices. Flick out any seeds as you go along. Put into a wide, shallow bowl. 4 Cut the red onion into very fine slices. Cut the chicken into long, fairly thick slices. Add the dressing (with any juices from the cooked chicken) to the fruit. Add the chicken and onion to the citrus fruit, then roughly chop the mint and add to the bowl. Flick out the seeds from the pomegranate halves with a fork over the top of the salad just before you bring it to the table.

Not only is this salad as pretty as a picture, it’s very healthy, with all that zingy, vita min-loaded citrus and pomegranate. Don’t add the seeds until you are about to serve, or they’ ll leach out their crimson juices.

> flavour spice it up

STICKY PINEAPPlE WITH GINGEr GrANITA Serves 2

Spice It Up!

Ingrediants 400ml (14fl oz) water 350g (12oz) granulated sugar 5 fine strips of lime rind juice of 6 limes 2 pineapples

For the granita 750ml (1¹/³ pints) water 250g (9oz) granulated sugar 75g (2¾oz) fresh root ginger, peeled and grated finely grated rind of 1 lime juice of 6 limes

by Levi Roots is published by Mitchell Beazley RRP £18.99

This is obviously a dessert, but I have eaten the granita on its own, at any time of day, as it’s so thirst quenching. This is particularly good for people who are trying to lose a bit of weight, as there isn’t too much sugar in it and no fat at all.

Method 1 To make the syrup for the pineapple, put the water and sugar into a saucepan and heat gently, stirring a little, until the sugar has dissolved. Add the lime rind strips, bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Turn the heat off, stir in the lime juice and leave to cool completely. Remove the lime rind. 2 If you like, using a very sharp knife, cut the skin from each pineapple, removing any remaining ‘eyes’ (otherwise you can leave the skin on). Cut into large wedges and remove the hard central core from each wedge. Put the pineapple into a bowl and pour over the cold lime syrup. Cover and leave in the fridge until you need it. 3 To make the sugar syrup for the granita, heat the water and sugar as before, but this time just bring the water up to the boil – there is no need to keep simmering it. Turn the heat off, then add the ginger and grated lime rind. Cover and leave to infuse, at room temperature, overnight. 4 Strain the infused syrup and stir in the lime juice. Pour into a shallow freezer-proof container and freeze for 4–5 hours until firm. Use a fork to roughly break up the crystals 4 or 5 times during the freezing process. 5 To serve, pile the granita into glasses and insert 2 wedges of the pineapple at angles, skin-side up, in each glass.

> flavour thornbury castle

thornbury castle Following in the footsteps of the most infamous King of England, this month flavour editor Holly Aurelius-Haddock dines in one of the region’s most historic locations…

It’s next to impossible to talk about Thornbury Castle in anything other than superlatives, so I won’t try. This breathtaking venue offers everything you’d expect from England’s only Tudor castle hotel: history, grandeur and elegance; all topped off with an overriding sense of pride in service. This is no doubt thanks in part to General Manager Brian Jarvis who has held his post for 17 years and bustles around as if Henry VIII were planning his return visit any day now. As you might expect, a castle of this kind boasts picture perfect gardens that provide the ideal pre-dinner warm up. Rather uniquely, a working vineyard can also be found on the estate and during the grape harvest of late September, visitors are even invited to participate in the grape picking. The only caution with which I approached the dining room at Thornbury Castle was that of potential complacency – surely people would be drawn to such a place regardless of what was on the menu? Upon meeting Head Chef Mark Veale however, my apprehension dissolved quicker than an aspirin. Utterly charming and endlessly passionate where food is concerned, it came as little surprise that he’s served his apprenticeship in London under some well-known figures. These include Gordon Ramsay (and Chef Patron Stuart Gilles) at The Boxwood Café in Knightsbridge and Julian O’Niell at The Wolseley.

Thornbury Castle Castle Street Thornbury South Gloucestershire BS35 1HH www.thornburycastle.co.uk 28

Mark’s mantra of the finest ingredients with the simplest of intervention is one that he shares with many leading lights from the classical school of thought, though Mark perhaps underestimates how dynamically he works within these parameters.

Take for example my starter of marinated English tomato and goats’cheese tart. A straightforward medley on the surface of things, yet à la tarte tatin, it had been glazed to the point that sweet brittle formed around the edges. This time of year sees British tomatoes at their best, and in this exquisite dish they could just as easily have arrived from Pomodorino the day before. In the interest of trying something new, I then opted for the poached Devon cod cheeks, cocotte potato, samphire, razor clam and white wine velouté. Just as the most tender cuts of an animal are those that do the least work during the animal’s life, so it is with our amphibious friends. These delicate balls of sweetness fell apart with very little persuasion and were only rendered more delicious by the salty samphire and velvety sauce that accompanied them. Chef proved himself to be right on trend with his roasted peaches, thyme ice cream, vanilla tuille and pastis foam, too. Not only did this dessert deliver visually but the savoury ice cream was the crowning glory here – no mean feat in such a regal setting. If the mood takes you, you can end the evening by sinking into of the castle’s luxury four-poster beds and, surrounded by stone walls, tapestries, roaring fires and ornate carved ceilings, dream of times gone by. Go to Thornbury Castle and you’ll get everything you expect. Thanks to the dedication of its team however, this jewel nestled in the heart of the Cotswolds firmly embraces the past while offering a most progressive dining experience. ■

Everything youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d expect from Englandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only Tudor castle hotel: history, grandeur and elegance; all topped off with an overriding sense of pride in service

Welcome to THE ARUNDELL ARMS... The Arundell Arms is one of the finest hotels boasting award-winning food from a choice of hotel restaurants, all led by Master Chef of Great Britain, Steven Pidgeon. ~ Famous for fly fishing, hunting and shooting, the hotel exudes all the charm of a country hotel in rural Devon, with an attention to detail and thoughtful touches throughout. ~ With delicious food to suit every occasion, The Arundell Arms prides itself on seasonal, outstanding local produce and creativity in the kitchen, while the accommodation and hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grounds, including 20 miles of its own water on the Tamar and six of its tributaries, is enough to inspire any intrepid traveler or feet-up lounger.

~ Fore Street, Lifton, Devon. PL16 0AA ~ T: 01566 784 666 ~ www.arundellarms.com ~

the great flavour Let’s face it: most of us meat-eaters love a steak. There is something almost Neandertholic about biting into a chunk of red meat, tearing it from the knife and chewing incessantly as though we have caught, killed and prepared it ourselves. Fortunately, however, we have other people to do that for us.

SteakOut T

here are over two million cattle slaughtered for beef every year in the UK and it’s the third most widely eaten meat. Therefore, to give these cows the respect they are due and have earned it’s important that we learn from the masters and get those steaks tender, succulent and perfectly cooked over a nice flaming grill. Whether it be rump, sirloin, fillet, rib-eye, T-bone or Porterhouse, nothing quite beats a cut of British beef, matured and hung for weeks on end and delivered to you on your plate as a big, juicy, pink smile of succulent decadence. We’ve found some of the finest butchers and restaurants around to guide us through the best cuts and the perfectly executed steaks so read on for some truly mouth-watering inspiration…

Wild Garlic

ild Garlic Restaurant & Rooms, Nailsworth has established a loyal and discerning clientele, thanks to a great reputation for fresh, modern cooking. Chef Patron Matthew Beardshall is serious about the produce that comes into his kitchen; great care is taken to choose the best ingredients with a focus on sustainability and food miles.

Matthew has sourced a wonderful fillet steak which is cut on the bone. Cooking on the bone helps to protect the delicate meat and imparts a greater depth of flavour; these delicious fillet steaks are farmed by George Ritch and his family who have cared for cattle for generations. The beef is hung for four weeks and the result is the tastiest, most tender beef around. A beautifully cooked fillet steak simply served with thick cut chips and a crisp green salad - perfect! And how about a bold glass of red wine - perhaps the Nieto Malbec Reserva from Mendoza Argentina, a full rich red that completes the experience. Ambience in the restaurant is smart and contemporary and service is professional yet warm and sincere; Wild Garlic is a great place for a relaxed lunch with friends or a celebratory dinner, with a wine list to suit any occasion and pocket.

Menus are reassuringly short and change in time with the seasons and availability of great local produce available from the South West. Diners are treated to freshly baked bread served with garlic and herb infused rapeseed oil, pastas, ice creams and chocolates - all handmade.

The best way to fully experience Wild Garlic is to stay in one of three beautiful airy rooms above; two of which have large bay windows overlooking picturesque Cossack Square; a wonderful place to watch the world go by.

When it comes to a great steak Matthew has put a lot of thought into making sure that Wild Garlic really hits the mark.

Wild Garlic 3 Cossack Square, Nailsworth Gloucs. GL6 0DB 01453 832 615 - www.wild-garlic.co.uk

Succulent Mature

Gran Reserva ~ Plus FREE Lagioule Steak Knives ~ The perfect partner for your favourite steak Pop the cork on this cracking Gran Reserva with generous damson, cherry and plum aromas. Sear your steak quickly and enjoy this rich, mature red with spicy complexity, its flavours marry perfectly with well hung beef. El Buho Gran Reserva is normally £9.99 a bottle; you can enjoy it today for just £6.67. Plus the Ultimate Steak Knives yours FREE Order your case in the next 7 days and you’ll also receive a set of 6 Lagioule Steak Knives. Lagioule Steak knives can often retail at over £150, this set is yours FREE with El Buho Gran Reserva.

Save over

£80 Exclusive Fl avour Magazine Offer

If you love the wines of Rioja, you will adore this smooth red. El Buho Gran Reserva is a wonderfully mature, 2003 vintage Tempranillo cuvée, barrel-aged in American Oak, it’s drinking perfectly now.

Rich, smooth oak-aged red from Valencia, blended from Tempranillo and Bobal. Spicy damson and plum aromas with balanced vanilla oak. Soft red fruits on the palate with savoury and spicy nuances, and silky, ripe tannins.

12 Bottles of El Buho Gran Reserva, 2003 Now only £79.99 plus your free Lagioule Steak Knives Save over £80 (plus £6.99 p&p) With limited stocks available, order yours today Call 0843 224 1224 quoting R4185, order online at www.averys.com/flavour or pop into Averys Historic Cellars on Culver Street, Bristol BS1 5LD Established in 1793, Averys is one of the UK’s most pioneering wine merchants.“Quality is at the heart of everything we do. As a customer you are guaranteed exceptional wines and service, if at any time you are not satisfied, we will refund or replace your wine without quibble. I look forward to welcoming you to Averys.” John Avery, Master of Wine, Chairman TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Customers must be over 18 years of age. Goods are offered subject to availability. Prices shown include VAT and are correct at the time of printing but may be subject to change. No other discounts may be taken. Please allow 14 days of order. RRP of Lagioule Knives is £42.99. Offer valid until 30 November 2011

SteakOut

Marco Pierre White Steakhouse

pened in September last year, the Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill has already established itself as one of the region’s premier eateries. Located at the DoubleTree by Hilton, Cadbury House in Congresbury, the restaurant is open to both guests at the hotel and non-residents. Nestled in the North Somerset countryside, Cadbury House is set against a backdrop of woodland and the historic Cadbury Hill. The restaurant is part of the modern hotel which stands proudly next to the gothic-style 18th century house and both are complemented by fantastic views across the Bristol Channel and beyond into Wales. What makes this venue so inviting is the inspiration it draws from the 18th Century house. It’s the perfect blend of past and present – successfully combining historical character with contemporary design. The restaurant has Marco’s personality stamped all over it. Like the man the decor is dark and sultry, alive with his

unique brand of charisma and tinged with a hint of his devilish sense of humour. There’s sophistication aplenty – discreet lighting, leather tablecloths, art deco candle lamps and a simple bright red gerbera centrepiece that adds a muchneeded splash of colour to every table. Marco calls it “affordable glamour” and if there’s one thing this venue boasts it’s ambiance, in abundance. A great advocate of locally produced, ethically reared and grown ingredients, Marco sources a lot of his meat from Somerset farms and his fish from Devon and Cornwall. Even West Country cheeses and home county beers (Butcombe Blond) and ciders (Gaymers and Thatchers Gold) make an appearance. In addition, diners can try Marco’s new beer called The Governor. The menu comprises everything you’d expect from a traditional steakhouse, with the added superior quality you would expect from Marco Pierre White.

MPW Steakhouse Bar & Grill Cadbury House, Frost Hill, Congresbury 01934 839019 www.mpwsteakhousebristol.co.uk

Starters on the summer menu include crab cocktail, sauce mayonnaise; kipper pate with whisky and melba toast; beetroot and goats’ cheese salad with walnut dressing. Mains include roast rump of lamb, a la Dijonnaise, pomme dauphinoise; belly pork Marco Polo, butter beans and spatchcock chicken, chipolatas, roasting juices and bread sauce. And if you’re not a t-bone, rib-eye or sirloin type of person, alongside some of the finest, freshest steaks in the South West you’ll find a range of grilled and roast meats and fish to tempt every tastebud

✁

f lav o offe ur r

Receive 25% off your food bill at the Marco Pierre White Steakhouse in Bristol! Term & conditions • Must book in advance mentioning the ‘Flavour Offer’ and present voucher upon payment • Not for use in conjunction with any other offer • Valid until 30/09/11 • Voucher valid for up to 6 people • Subject to availability.

SteakOut

sk anyone in Bath to point you in the right direction for a grilled piece of meat and, 99 times out of 100, they’ll send you to Hudson Steakhouse Bar and Grill. And there is a very good reason for that; Bristol-born head chef Mike Beckingham knows exactly what he is doing. The steaks at Hudson are sourced from a farm assured cooperative in Staffordshire featuring Angus and Limousin beef, before being slow matured and hung for a minimum of 28 days by local butcher Terry and Son. “The meat has been well cared for,” says Mike, “I have been cooking over a grill for years now but this is the best beef I have ever handled. We say 28 days but really the aging process is more like 36 to 40 days, which makes the marbling stunning and the richness of the meat as good as it gets. It’s superb. “There is nothing quite like being over the grill, it really is hands-on cooking. Watching the meat cook, hearing it sizzle and taking in the lovely smells is great and I never get tired of it.”

Hudsons

Mike has been in the Hudson kitchen four years now and knows the importance of getting it right for the customer. “They have been thinking about their steak all day long, knowing exactly how they want it cooked and with which side orders to have it with, so we can’t afford to disappoint them. I want to give customers the best of British beef and a taste sensation. They pay a lot of money to eat out so you have to give them consistency and what you’ve promised otherwise they wont come back.” They are coming back to Hudson though and summer is a busy time. in the kitchen. “I am cooking about 500 steaks a week so we’re obviously doing something right,” Mike says, “Someone has spent a lot of time raising, nurturing and preparing the cow so I think I have to apply the same reasoning to how careful I am making sure the steak is as good as it can be on the plate.” Mike is also more than happy to share his tips with us for those cooking at home: “Don’t settle for second best. Pay a little more for the perfect cut of beef and season with salt flakes as opposed to table salt – when the steak hits the grill (cook slowly on the edge) you get a crust and sweetness from the salt that brings out the full flavour of the beef. Fillet steak is great but for a real tasty cut look at the sirloins or rib-eyes.”

Hudsons - 14 London Street - Bath - BA1 5BU 01225 332323 www.hudsonbars.com

Hudson has a great bar and a founded reputation for funky cocktails, but if you are downstairs you may as well go upstairs and tuck into one of Mike’s mighty fine steaks, cooked with all the skill a whole load of experience has given him. Tempted…? Just a little...?

SteakOut 10% Molesworths of Henleaze

or a rare treat, why not try ‘Molesworths’ Extra Mature Somerset T-Bone Steak’ cut to your requirements. Typically, Molesworths of Henleaze, mature the steak on the bone for eight to ten weeks. According to owner Peter Molesworth,“The joint develops a crusty dry exterior while maturing,” however, on cutting and preparation by their master butchers, “a wonderfully soft, ruby sirloin and fillet nestles inside.”

Shop manager, Graham Symes, advises to have the steak at room temperature, to use a seriously hot pan or griddle and to cook for just a few minutes each side, turning once. Little cooking is required due to the tender nature of the steak. Lock the sauces away and savour the taste of this aged gem! ‘Molesworths’ Gower Salt Mash Lamb’ is very much in season too. Try a juicy leg steak on the bone or a slightly slower cooked shoulder steak. The salt marsh grazing gives a delicate flavour and accompanied by some late season samphire or beans, is just the thing for light, late summer suppers. 101 Henleaze Road, Henleaze, Bristol BS9 4JP 0117 962 8488

Terry & Son

hese premises in Bath have been trading as butchers for more than 50 years. Owner Tom has been working here for 30 years and took control with his wife 10 years ago as a small family-run concern.

Tom buys his meat from the same supplier each week and that has helped to develop a strong understanding of the quality he requires. He also has a designated buyer at Smithfield Market, London, who can source just about anything he needs. Terry & Son is proud to serve many of the high quality local hotels, restaurants and steakhouses and the fact that they keep going back is testament to the friendly service and top produce they deliver. 9-10 London Street, Bath BA1 5BU - 01225 464 655

discount steak pu on your rchases Please m ‘flavour’ ention -Va end of Se lid until ptember

SteakOut The Blue Bowl Inn

he family run Blue Bowl Inn, West Harptree, is everything you could want from a traditional country pub. It’s a stone-built 18th-century building next to the Chew Valley Lake at the foot of the Mendip Hills, both areas of outstanding natural beauty. It boasts four superb en suite bedrooms, and an à la carte restaurant set in beautiful landscape gardens. All of the real ales have a Cask Marque Award and, more to the point, they pack a great steak. With the meat supplied by the local butcher - Nick Jefferies Butchery Services – the steak options are numerous. There’s an 8oz sirloin, an 8oz rib-eye or a 10oz rump, with surf and turf, garlic butter, eggs, or a fiery chilli sauce to accompany them as added extras. Each meal from the grill is served with chips, peas, tomatoes, mushrooms and onion rings to guarantee you won’t leave hungry. As a steak alternative, but still cooked on the grill, the Harptree Humdinger is a handmade ½ pound cheeseburger with a punch. Of course the Blue Bowl Inn has more to its menu than just steaks but if it’s a bit of red meat nurtured over the grill that you are looking for, then a trip out to West Harptree will see you more than right.

Bristol Road, West Harptree BS40 6HJ 01761 221269 - www.thebluebowl.co.uk

The Fox

great venue for a superbly cooked and high-quality steak is The Fox at Broughton Gifford. Nestling in the lush countryside less than 10 miles from Bath, The Fox is the epitome of a great country pub, busy with both drinkers and diners. Hugely committed to fresh seasonal food and local produce, the team at The Fox serves up a steak that is fit for a king. Using a farm that is less than half-a-mile from the pub kitchen, and that is famed for its beef, it is no surprise that the fillet steak served at The Fox is up there with the best. Hung for at least 28 days and raised in the fields surrounding the village, the beef could not be of a better pedigree. Served with a salad – picked straight out of the garden – garlic butter or perhaps pepper sauce, you know that it will not disappoint.

The Fox’s tips for the perfect steak: Take the meat out of the fridge and allow it to come up to room temperature before cooking, season well with salt and pepper on both sides and once cooked allow the steak to rest for ten minutes so the fibres in the meat can relax. There we go, it’s as simple as that. But if you don’t fancy the bother of the work in the kitchen yourself, allow The Fox at Broughton Gifford to do the hard yards for you.

The Street, Broughton Gifford, Melksham SN12 8PW 01225 782 949 - www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk

SteakOut The Chequers

alk into The Chequers, Bath, and you’ll know you’re in a place that takes its steaks seriously. Hand written chalkboards adorn the walls enticing steak lovers with a broad range of cuts: rump, rib- eye, sirloin, T-bone and fillet. Each steak is available with a wide range of sides, sauces and extras – try the deep fried onion rings, they’re a world away from the greasy fast food variety. For something even more special, try the côte de boeuf as a sharing dish. They serve it with a summer ragout of broad beans, jersey royals, giroles and baby globe artichokes. All steaks are sourced from Ruby & White Butchers, Clifton and come from a British White herd in the

Brecon National Park. Head Chef Leigh Evans says “I like to buy the cow ‘middle’, where I can take all of my cuts of steak, joints for Sunday lunch, bones for the stocks and sauces plus trimmings to make our famous burgers. Then you are left with the blade and Jacob’s ladder which we braise down and feature on our special board.” All meat is hung for minimum of 30 days, with primal cuts (cuts of meat that are matured on the bone, i.e. rib, sirloin) being hung for up to 40 days. We take our hats off to Leigh and The Chequers.

50 Rivers Street, Bath BA1 2QA - 01225 360 017 - www.thechequersbath.com

The Marlborough Tavern

e’ve heard it said that a gastro pub’s reputation is built on its ability to serve great steak. Whether you believe that or not, one thing’s for certain: The Marlborough Tavern, Bath, has an excellent reputation for its food - and they serve fantastic steaks. Indeed their regular Steak & Malbec night has become the stuff of local legend (they’ll serve you a locally-sourced and ethically-reared steak for just £9.99 – and will give you a bottle of luscious Argentinian Malbec to wash it down with for the same great price).

On the regular menu they are currently running the bavette and onglet cuts of steak, alongside the better-known rib-eye. Bavette and onglet offer different textures to more standard steaks with the grain of the meat visible, plus a deeper flavour (they are traditionally known as offal cuts). The beef is dry hung for at least 32 days before it arrives at the pub and comes from a pedigree herd of British White (a native breed) from Glanusk Farm in the Brecons. Accompanied by twice-fried, chunky handcut chips and side salad, they’re hard to resist. Why not try one with their rich and piquant peppercorn sauce?

35 Marlborough Buildings, Bath BA1 2LY - 01225 423 731 - www.marlborough-tavern.com

Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.

Summer Sizzlers 40

> flavour clare morris

his month I’ve been feeling pretty hungry most of the time. I’m putting this down to the fact that virtually every evening the tantalising smell of a barbecue comes across the air. In my book it’s one of the best smells in the world – reminiscent of lazy, warm evenings, great social events and damn tasty food. Naturally, we all know there are some food disasters to be had when it comes to open fires. I usually find that most can be rescued but there’s often a sad, lonely sausage sitting cremated at the end of the event. But even for those a bit less charcoaled, finding something to drink that stands up to the powerful flavours can be difficult to find. Look out for wines with big flavours – ripe, juicy fruit, smoky and spicy reds and lots of tannin and intensity. Wines with lots of ‘structure’ as the boffins will tell you. Personally I always think it’s a good idea to try a wine before you serve it to your guests (great excuse!) so here’s a few excellent barbecue wines for you to try out and about before you get the fire going at home.

Firstly for a spicy red option. Etchart Privado Malbec is incredibly easy to drink but weighty enough for that all important barbecue match. This is a superb example of the style and quality of wine coming out of Argentina at the moment – it’s easy to see why this region saw 23 per cent growth in the UK last year. At refurbished Black Boy pub in Shinfield, Reading, you can enjoy the newly-expanded patio area in the sunshine and get yourself in barbecue mode. www.blackboyshinfield.co.uk Now for a smoky number. Pinotage is the ultimate smoky red. A real Marmite wine with most people I know, but when you find a good example it’s hard not to like. With such a distinctive, intense flavour it’s ideal for barbecue food and the Fish Hoek Pinotage from Western Cape, South Africa, is a great example. You can sample at the excellent La Perle restaurant in Milford on Sea – maybe with the Cassoulet de Tolouse for some wonderfully rich flavours to partner the wine. www.laperlemilford.co.uk My last red is an obvious choice – a big Aussie Shiraz. Made in the sunshine with one purpose in mind – the barbecue. Leasingham Magnus Shiraz delivers everything you’re looking for in this grape, with chocolate, black pepper and red berry flavours. Try a bottle at the Swan in Nibley just outside Yate, for good pub food, summer drinks – and of course, some great wines. www.theswanatnibley.co.uk Whites don’t always get associated with barbecue food, but if you find one with enough fruit flavours then it’s a good option for char-grilled chicken, prawns and veggie options too. Chardonnay’s always a good choice if you get a nice rich, fruity wine from a warm climate. As an alternative, try something like a Verdejo. Analivia Verdejo is from Rueda in Spain, South West of Rioja. It’s not a common grape variety across the world so not as well known as something like Chardonnay – but equally delicious. With peach, pear and lemon flavours it’s a great variety for barbecues. Head to Picture House East in Clifton, Bristol, and pair the Verdejo with some Serrano ham. A perfect Spanish pairing. www.picturehouse.eu 41

THEBARTENDER TheBartender provides professional cocktail bartenders for all events, from small pre-going out soirées of 15, to weddings for 500. They can supply stunning mobile bars, fabulous flair bartenders and delicious drinks for all. If you want to throw a party at home but don’t want the hassle of looking after your guests’ drinks needs, you can hire one of the team to arrive early, setup a makeshift bar or one of the mobile bars and serve your guests great drinks using your ingredients and glassware. This helps to keep your costs down yet still feel like a celebrity with your own private bartender. The mobile bars come in a huge variety of shapes, sizes and colours. All of them are collapsible and each has it’s own ice wells, sink, speed rails and ample shelving, helping to keep the bar area neat and tidy throughout the event. Ever fancied learning more about the art of mixology? The Cocktail Clinic is a training session allowing you to muddle your own Mojito and shake your own Sex and the City classic Cosmopolitan. TheBartender brings these sessions to your own home, work or if you prefer, at one of their nationwide locations.

Such is the popularity of the ubiquitous cocktail, its clever art has even been accorded the impressive title of ‘mixology’. Nothing beats an experienced bartender mixing, shaking and pouring you a cocktail to order. This month, we advise you to throw that unwanted cocktail maker away and let the pros get to work...

For more information , telephone us or visit the website 01179 415825 www.thebartender.co.uk 42

PAPAJI’S

THE PARK

At Papaji's you'll discover an amazing range of high quality teas and cocktails. These can all be enjoyed in the contemporary styled bar and, when the weather permits, in the secret hidden garden that offers an oasis of calm on Whiteladies Road.

Bars and clubs come and go, but The Park, Clifton, has been doing what it does best for many years - serving great drinks and playing great music. It's hip, cool, and cozy, but never pretentious, and has the charm of a neighbourhood local, with friendly bar staff to match.

The well-stocked bar and cocktail expertise make this a popular destination for after work drinks and, the unique tea cocktails with many great classics and twists, including a couple of ancient mixed drinks like the Posset and the Flip, give Papaji’s a heads-up when it comes to supping on a glass of mystery and invention.

The Park has been famous for many things, but the thing it’s best known for is, of course, the cocktails. The list has been added to, tweaked and (most importantly) enjoyed for the best part of a decade.

Blue Star Teaknee 30ml Blue Star Earl Grey tea (double strength and infused for three minutes with 95oc softened and filtered water), 35ml Bombay Sapphire gin, 15ml Cointreau, 20ml fresh lemon juice, 5ml almond sugar/orgeat syrup, 5ml sugar syrup, dash orange bitters. Shake, fine strain and serve in a chilled cocktail (martini) glass and garnish with flamed orange zest.

The classics are always available, and The Park can promise you your favourite cocktail, well priced and very well made. However, it’s the signature cocktails that have placed the Bristol bar firmly on the map. Some of the most unusual and delicious drinks have been created within the walls (many of which have gone on to win international competitions), and that tradition of excellence still thrives today. The Park is an oasis where you can soak up the atmosphere while enjoying the truly eclectic and soulful tunes served up by some of Bristol's most esteemed DJs. If that’s not enough, there's a luxurious upstairs lounge bar that you and your friends can have all to yourselves for up to 50 people – if you ask nicely!

HAPPY HOUR until 7pm; two-for-one cocktails, draught lager, cider, ale, wine by the glass and spirit mixers. Papaji's Bar, Kitchen & Teasmiths 109 Whiteladies Road Clifton Bristol BS8 2PB 01179 466144 www.papajis.co.uk

2 FOY RHOU1R! HAPP

The Park Bar 37 Triangle West Bristol BS8 1ER

T LATE NIGBHAR LOUNGE

01179 406101 www.theparkbristol.com 43

TIKI

ISENSUA

Tiki is a new and exciting bar on Whiteladies Road, Bristol, and it follows in the tradition of other Tiki bars with a strong Hawaiian theme, but also mixes in plenty of New Zealand culture and other Pacific island influences. Always known for being an up market watering hole, the new format specialises in Tiki cocktails – strong, fruity concoctions in fantastic Tiki mugs elaborately garnished – as well as perfectly-executed classics, real ales and unusual wines. The music mixes reggae and calypso with modern New Zealand dub, kept at a level that encourages chatter rather than a sore throat. The décor is distinctly Pacific rim – pictures of Milford sound, Maoris and volcanoes sit under a full-sized ceiling mural of Tiki gods ready to strike those who don’t enjoy themselves! The bar has the traditional beech hut look and ceiling-high palms complete the illusion – you could be 1000’s of miles away relaxing on an island without a care in the world!

ISENSUA develop innovative products for the pleasure of all and, after years working in drinks speciality, they set off to pursue their vision and passion for beautifully handcrafted spirits using the finest ingredients. 2011 saw the launch of Devon hills TARKA label range of flower and fruit infused gins and vodkas - Damson - Sloe - Rose - Lavender and Geranium - perfect for cocktails, frozen or on ice. ISENSUA gins and vodkas are created to blend like a dream and gins and vodkas of this excellence can only be created in small batches, but the ensuing spirits are smoother and more complex than their rivals’. Crystal Vodka is handcrafted in the UK using specially selected, pure ingredients. In a process that takes weeks to complete, Crystal vodka is quadruple distilled in small batches and is then finely filtered. The result is amazing vodka with complex and elegant flavours, a silky quality and a long finish. Crystal Vanille is naturally flavoured from the finest carefully selected plump aromatic Madagascan vanilla beans using a proprietary process of maceration. Vanille is a natural fusion of Crystal spirit and vanilla bean - smooth and luscious. OPIUM is the most captivating of vodkas. It is smooth and well rounded for a taste of lingering pleasure. The possibilities with ISENSUA are endless!

Tiki’s happy hour is a two-for-one on selected cocktails between 4pm and 7pm. Mention flavour magazine and that’s a two-for-one on ANY cocktail during that period. Happy days! Tiki Bristol 44 Whiteladies Road, Clifton Bristol. BS8 2NH 01179 731529 www.tikibristol.com

2 FPPOY RHOU1R! HA

Isensua. ISS 1209, Office 6 Slington House, Rankine Road Basingstoke. RG24 8PH 07500 803404 www.isensua.com

GOLDBRICK HOUSE LEARN FROM THE BEST... In the truly stylish surroundings of Goldbrick House, why not try a cocktail training session with a group of up to 20 friends? Held in their Champagne and Cocktail Bar and hosted by one of the highly experienced bar team, you'll learn about the history of your chosen drinks and the equipment to make all your parties go with a real swing. Be warned, courses are extremely popular so be sure to book early! Goldbrick House 69 Park Street Bristol 0117 9451950 www.goldbrickhouse.co.uk

WHITLOCK & GRACE Walk the length of Whiteladies Road and you'll find drinking establishments â&#x20AC;&#x201C; let's put this politely â&#x20AC;&#x201C; of varying degrees. Yet tucked away in the most unlikely of spots is a relatively unknown sanctuary. Venture up the side of Clifton Down Shopping Centre and you'll find Platform One, formerly K2, formerly Kickers. If this is your kind of place then I'd suggest you look away now, because its neighboring venue certainly won't be. Countless revellers in the vicinity have probably stumbled past a very discreet doorway lit by a Victorian street lamp, and this my friends, is Whitelock and Grace. A self-proclaimed 'thinking and drinking' establishment, this is the type of speakeasy come cocktail bar that anyone seduced by the cult of Hausbar must seek out. On the evening of my visit, bellinis were being served out of retro Champagne saucers and silent Charlie Chaplin movies were being projected onto the back wall. Get the (silent) picture? With urban spawls adorning the walls Whitelock and Grace is understatedly cool, and in fact doubles up as a gallery space for temporary exhibitions. As for the drinks, all I'm prepared to say is that these guys eat, sleep and breathe mixology, and the rest is for you to find out for yourself. Just don't tell too many people, OK? Clifton Down (Top of steps to train station) Bristol 0117 3179189 www.whitelockandgrace.co.uk

GINSPIRATION Winners of three gold stars at last year’s Great Taste Awards, Six O'clock Gin and Six O'clock Tonic are the new champions of the Bramley and Gage range. The blueprint for Six O'clock Gin and Six O'clock Tonic is balance, poise and precision, values upheld by Michael Kain, who has created both a clean and smooth London gin and a natural bittersweet tonic. When combined, the whole becomes greater than the sum of the parts.

Six O’clock Tonic is an all-natural Indian tonic water made with real sugar and contains no saccharin or artificial preservatives. The bitterness comes from natural quinine extract and this melds with acidity from lemon and lime extracts. Quench your thirst this summer with the ultimate British aperitif – creating your very own moment of “ginspiration” before dinner. www.sixoclockgin.co.uk

For the gin, Michael carefully balances juniper with six other botanicals to chime together as sweetly as any timepiece. Orange peel adds citrus in delightful harmony with floral elderflower, resulting in a clean, smooth and richly flavoured gin.

> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Terry Greenhouse Originally from: Portsmouth Head chef at: Cricklade House

I started in the industry as an apprentice not knowing what I was letting myself in for! But I had a desire to progress within the industry to a standing of respect. I am very influenced by the Pacific Rim and fusion cooking. This doesn’t mean lots and lots of different spices, it’s just the attitudes and the beliefs of the people that use it by taking some of the ingredients they use and applying it to the food we get in this country, it can make for a very pleasant experience. In Greek cooking for example they use cinnamon in beef, which can really bring the taste of the beef out without being overpowering. I love working with fish because there is such a variety of flavours and textures available to everyone, unlike before when you were limited to certain fish. People are now enjoying many different types of fish they weren’t prepared to try years ago such as the Deep Sea Espada, but my particular favourite is The Great Victoria Lake Nile Perch. At Cricklade we work as a team with our colleagues from Cotswolds 88. The executive chef Lee Scott has a very complete understanding of the industry and it is my intention to bring Cricklade House to the same standards as Cotswold 88, while also retaining our own unique personality. To keep our food fresh and relevant you have to be aware of the competition, which is the cutting edge of most fashion. My enthusiasm for cooking has always been there and I love competing against my peers to get the best out of myself. I have always had this enthusiasm for food and always will.

There are several people that have inspired me along the way, none more so than Gary Rhodes. I think he was one of the most influential chefs on the attitude of young people, both in the way they worked and in their appearance, proving that one could be professional and ‘trendy’. Most of the more business-like chefs have left the industry on the cooking side, and become more orientated to other sides of business, but they are without doubt very good chefs. Personally I found it a great pleasure to work with Michael Quinn in the early days of nouveau cuisine, also not so long ago with Todd English in America and not forgetting of course the modern Escoffier Anton Mosimann. Here’s something you won’t know about me: I hold a war medal from the South Atlantic! I was the very first volunteer on the QE2 as chef de partie in 1978 and finished as Executive Chef in 1988 to go to the South Atlantic during the Falklands Conflict. And in 1993 I was the only English chef to get a Clover Leaf Gold in the culinary Olympics in Berlin. There you go! ■

Cricklade House Common Hill Cricklade Wiltshire SN6 6HA 01793 750751 www.crickladehotel.co.uk 49

> flavour xxxxxxx

the squire A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com

There’s something quintessentially Olde English about Chipping Sodbury. Its absurdly wide main street – unsurprisingly called Broad Street - harks back to its days as a bustling market town. In years gone by the street would have been awash with stalls selling local produce and livestock. In fact, the ‘Chipping’ part of the name is not, as some believe, a reference to the nearby golf course; nor does it reflect the extensive quarrying that takes place to the north of the town. No, Chipping comes from the Old English ‘ceping’, meaning a place where a market was held. The farmers’ market has been revived in recent months and, since June 2011, it is held on the second and fourth Saturday of the month on the market pitchings. There are two ‘Mop Fairs’ a year (March and September), and a Food Festival (Early October). This is a proud Cotswold town where there always seems to be something going on.

The Squire Inn 67 Broad Street Chipping Sodbury BS37 6AD 01454 312121 www.thesquireinn.co.uk 50

Chipping Sodbury also boasts a number of good pubs in which to rest and examine your shopping or just watch the world go by. One such is The Squire, tucked away on the north side of Broad Street just east of the Wickwar Road. In the 17th century, this was a coaching inn and, to the side, you can still make out where the horses would

have pulled the coach to the rear of the building, to be watered and rested while travellers from London stepped inside sought sustenance of their own. One of the joys of this pub, which has survived and adapted over 300-plus years, is that it hasn’t been homogenised to conform with a marketing company’s ideal of what a ‘historic market town pub’ should look like. So the furnishings are varied, a mix of modern and traditional, the wood panelled flooring gives way to carpeting around the bar, and there are natural divisions allowing for visitors to have their own space without feeling too isolated from the chatty, social atmosphere. As you move towards the bar, there is a long banquette to your right, and another large TV screen which, on my visit, carried news and was very unobtrusive. To the rear (isn’t it odd how these pubs always seem to stretch back further than you think possible) is a more formal dining area, with rows of tables all set for what is a thriving lunchtime and evening trade. The food menu ranges from a variety of ciabatta, sandwiches, jacket potatoes and the like for an informal lunch; through to well-prepared traditional pub meals such as scampi, chicken tikka masala,

> flavour xxxxxxx

Raise a glass to... Butcombe Gold (4.4%) A fruity, almost citrus aroma and lovely golden colour let you know you’re in for a treat. There’s a slight sweetness to the flavour, although overall it’s a pretty well-balanced pint. Wickwar Cotswold Way (4.2%) The colour reminds me of those orangey-chestnut colour sweets my nan used to give me when I visited. But unlike those sweets, this has a lovely fruity aroma, with a hint of oldfashioned hops too.

steaks and – on my visit – a particularly scrumptious pork Dijon. The obligatory Sunday roast is also available. Now, for a nice pint, this is an unusual pub in that, although it’s far from the stereotypical West Country cider house, it does serve a remarkable number of ciders, from the mass-marketed Blackthorn, through more locally concentrated sparkling ciders like Stowford Press, Thatcher’s Gold and Ashton Press, to the richly and delightfully hazy traditional ciders such as Weston’s Organic and Broad Oak Pheasant Plucker.

and chairs that tessellate together to form pretty little cubes when not in use. On my visit to The Squire, there were a couple of well-heeled women seated by a window at the front; there were some young lads cheerfully discussing the forthcoming football season; a couple of besuited business types grabbing a bite after their crucial sales meeting, and a group of local mums chatting while their remarkably well-behaved young children gurgled happily at them. And if you ask me, that is what a historic market town pub should look like. ■

Weston’s Organic (6.5%) Certified organic ciders are still fairly thin on the ground, and this is one of the more prominent. Surprisingly subtle for its strength, the draft version retains a real delicacy, almost floral in aroma, which makes it a perfect summer cider. One to be respected though! Broad Oak Pheasant Plucker (4.5%) Good to see proper ciders that don’t overdo the alcohol content. This one has an orangey tint to it, not utterly still, but with only a very light hazy sparkle to it. Reassuring, too, to be able to actually smell apples in the bouquet!

The real ales change pretty regularly but, on my visit, Cotswold Way from the nearby Wickwar Brewery and Somerset’s Butcombe Gold reflected a very simple but mature and sophisticated selection that eschewed the mass marketed and often bland national brands in favour of quality local brews. Also well worth mentioning is the garden to the rear. It’s at the far end of that paved and covered alleyway to the left of the pub. And the garden stretches so far back I could have sworn I saw a sign saying ‘Welcome to Narnia’ at the far end. There is a small covered seating area, some lawn and also a set of cleverly designed tables 51

> flavour the terrace

the terrace Taking advantage of the sporadic summer sun, this month Jennie Clark pays a visit to one of Bristol’s newlyopened hot-spots...

It’s always a good omen when, on a weeknight, you’re worrying whether a restaurant can squeeze two of you in for dinner. We didn’t have any trouble identifying The Terrace on Southville’s North Street – at little after 7pm on a Thursday the street-side tables were already bursting with after-work carafes of fruit-laden Pimm’s. The interior is smart, but unpretentious we were greatly amused by a trio of cow sketches in the bar area. We had drinks at a wooden table near the entrance, before moving to the dining area next to the open kitchen. I would have liked to see a bit more of a choice in terms of local ciders for those of us who like it roomtemperature, flat and strong, but they did have Thatchers’ Katy rosé cider and Weston’s Organic, as well as a few others on tap. The Terrace seems to be a big fan of serving food on a ‘plank’, and offers a choice of seafood, meat or vegetarian antipasti for under £9. After I’d heard the specials, however, I didn’t want to risk having to share. I had the pan-fried calamari (always on the menu, but with a daily twist) – thick squid rings lightly battered and swiftly cooked, smothered in the day’s flavour – a gorgeous Moroccan spice paste.

The Terrace 220 North Street Southville Bristol BS3 1JD

My dining partner started with the potted crab and crayfish with savoury scones and tarragon batter – a pleasingly large pot of home-potted Brixham fare. The butter and scones were rustic and homely, and the seafood was dressed in gentle citrus. I loved the fresh herbs that were strewn through every dish – fennel tops beside the crab, and a mix of fragrant leaves among the rocket with the calamari.

0117 963 9044 www.theterracebristol.co.uk

Other tempting starters included stilton croquettes with poached pear salad and

onion jam; creamy wild mushrooms on toast and a roast baby beetroot salad. For main, on recommendation, my partner chose the Argentine steak, with cuts of rump, rib-eye or sirloin to choose from. It arrived – avec plank – served with giant hand-cooked chips, grilled vine tomatoes, a huge mushroom and a pot of severely moreish peppercorn sauce. The thick slab of meat was chargrilled, the fat rendered to edible crisp outside, and perfect pink inside. I went for the much more unconventional option from the specials – sesamecrusted perch with sweetcorn purée. The hunk of soft white fish was coated in an impressively golden and crisp layer of seeds – the purée bright, thick and sweet. It was served with a pile of crushed new potatoes lavishly mixed with lemon zest, fresh chili and herbs. The overwhelming impression with every dish was of quality and freshness – and dishes to take pleasure in. The Terrace has its own pizza oven - the blackboard list includes Chew Valley smoked salmon and lemon chicken pizzas. If you don’t fancy having the full three courses, there are plenty of delicious options for snacking and sharing. Dessert had to be the plank – a trio of homemade puds. We sampled a rich, dark chocolate tart, a casual quenelle of gooey white chocolate mousse and the banoffee pie. We also eyed the Terrace cheese plank passing us by… next time! Only open for 12 weeks, The Terrace has taken a running jump into summer and has already pitched a winning balance of imaginative, generous and reasonablypriced food. I’ve heard Thursday night is the new Friday night – so don’t wait till the weekend to try it. ■

The Terrace has taken a running jump into summer and has already pitched a winning balance of imaginative, generous and reasonablypriced food

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage HQ is situated in the rolling countryside of East Devon. Home to the River Cottage Cookery School, events and courses, their attention always turns to wild food at this time of year. There is no greater pleasure at HQ than foraging; scouring the countryside, hedgerows and seashores looking for fantastic tasty treats. What makes it even better is it’s free!

WILDFOOD ohn Wright is River Cottage’s foraging expert and his wonderful handbooks; Mushrooms, Edible Seashore and Hedgerow are essential reference tools for budding foragers. But for a truly entertaining and informative experience you can’t beat a day out with John on the River Cottage Mushroom Foraging course.

“A couple of years back I asked John if he would like to host some mushroom foraging days for us at River Cottage HQ,” says Hugh, “and I have discovered that it isn’t just me who finds his take on mushrooms so engaging. After their day with John, our guests leave us feeling charged with the confidence to go forth and forage on their own.” The course is all about identifying, gathering and cooking wild mushrooms, targeting the often

abundant and delicious varieties offered up, for free, in the forests and fields during October. The day begins with a forage in the beautiful West Dorset/East Devon countryside accompanied by members of the River Cottage team and led by John, who will teach you how to safely identify, pick and prepare these fungi with pleasure and confidence. A cookery demonstration by resident River Cottage chefs in a converted barn follows before a talk by John about the varieties gathered that morning, both edible and poisonous. Foragers will then be served a ‘foragers’ supper’ – based around the edible mushrooms, of course – but also the best local and seasonal produce Dorset and Devon has to offer. 01297 630302 www.rivercottage.net

Fancy taking on the River Cottag e

Seven Mushroom Challenge?

John Wright, the River Cottage resident mushroom expert, has devised the ultimate list of mushrooms to find; the Holy Grai l, if you like, of the foraging worl d. He’s challenging you to discover the big seven. As you mak e your mushroom finds, River Cott age wants you to take a photo and upload it onto the website, on Facebook or by Twitter. Each time you upload a photo you'll be entered into a draw to win one of John Wright’s foraging DVDs. If you get pictures of all seven mushrooms in the challenge you will have the chance to boast abou t your discoveries with the man himself at one of his foraging courses at River Cottage HQ. Com petition ends October 2, 2011.

Course dates: 4, 5, 11, 12, 18, 19, 25 October Cost: £165 per person which includes a delicious seasonal lunch.

THEFOX Alex Geneen, owner of the Fox at Broughton Gifford, is a huge fan of wild food, growing your own and is not averse to a little foraging. On a day-to-day basis the pub has a large and varied vegetable patch and herb garden, and also a smallholding of chickens, ducks and even numerous pigs – all kept with the kitchen in mind! The birds are kept for their eggs, which go into all sorts at The Fox, from hollandaise sauce to omelettes. The pigs are destined for the table in a variety of different ways; their own sausages, bacon and a wide selection of home-cured charcuterie including hams, salamis and chorizo. There is a barter system in place at The Fox with local farmers and villagers dropping in rabbits and pigeons that have been shot that very day, and swapping them for ale or food! Anyone who has a surplus of homegrown veg is also welcome to drop by and give their bartering skills a run out. Alex regularly goes out foraging in the local area, whether it be for sloes, damsons, blackberries, wild garlic or other hedgerow treats which results in there always being something interesting on the menu! The Street, Broughton Gifford Melskam. SN12 8PW 01225 782 949 www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk

THE BACKYARD FORAGER Booze for free is the definitive guide to home brewing and making the perfect hedgerow tipple. Home brewing and winemaking is fun, easy and immensely satisfying. Andy Hamilton is a great believer in this and by using his years of experimental brewing and extensive foraging around the UK, he can show you how make drinks that are weird, wonderful and just plain tasty. His no-nonsense, easy-to-follow guide will help start those who have never brewed before and also inspire the expert. With over 100 recipes including great tasting wines made from fruit, vegetables and the hedgerows along with beers made from hops, yarrow, mugwort, elder and other foraged plants, there’s enough to keep you brewing throughout the year. This is the ultimate handbook for making ciders, wines, ales, sherries, liqueurs, beers cordials, teas and much more from what you can ind in your back garden and outside your front door.

BOOZE FOR FREE By Andy Hamilton Published by Eden Project Books Hardback, £9.99

LUCKNAMPARK Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Bath, has renovated its old vinery, a historic greenhouse, where they have grown an eclectic range of micro salads and herbs. The large raised beds are filled with over 120 tons of top soil, will have over 30 varieties of produce, ranging from alpine strawberries and rhubarb through to runner and broad beans, and from edible flowers to root and brassica crops. Richard Vine, who recently featured on Raymond Blanc’s Kitchen Secrets, comes from a farming and science background, but a chance meeting with a chef inspired him to take a horticultural path. Creating a unique fusion between the culinary world and that of the gardener, he now gardens with a chef’s eye. Michelin-starred executive chef, Hywel Jones, will work closely with Richard to choose seasonal produce for his menus in The Park restaurant and The Brasserie. Seasonal produce from the kitchen garden is shown regularly to Hywel so the kitchen is updated as to what is available. This then enables the kitchen to have produce when it is optimum size. Freshness is never an issue as from garden to kitchen is just minutes away. Garden produce is increasingly picked last minute and for specific menus and it looks as though everything is well in hand. For details of the Kitchen garden and up coming foodie events visit www.lucknampark.co.uk/dining/events Colerne, Wiltshire. SN14 8AZ

01225 742777

THESEVENSTARS The Seven Stars in Winsley, is a beautifully refurbished, award winning village free house and restaurant close to Bath and Bradford-onAvon. The ethos of owners Claire Spreadbury and Evan Metz has always been to serve their customers homemade, locally sourced and seasonal food. Now into their fourth year, they have recently been joined by new Head Chef, Ben Warran. Ben makes everything in house, is an ardent believer in nose-to-tail eating and has a wealth of experience in the art of home-curing and smoking. The pub now has its own smokehouse where Ben smokes all kinds of meat and fish which feature regularly on the menu. Ben is passionate about seasonality in his cooking and sources much of his veg from Grown Green, a small business in Winsley growing seasonal produce just up the road from the pub. This grower also provides Ben with more unusual seasonal ingredients such as nasturtiums, heirloom tomatoes and lovage which he loves to use in his cooking to make interesting and highly seasonal dishes. He also regularly forages for wild ingredients growing in the pub’s gardens and also from the hedgerows and woods from the surrounding Limpley Stoke

Valley. “We are a small business so it’s very difficult to be fully sustainable,” Ben says, “but we do as much as we can by picking our wild garlic, damsons, elderflowers, elderberries and jack by the hedge (hedge garlic) to make sure that everything we give to our customers is as fresh and as local as possible. It’s something we believe very strongly in.” The menu changes frequently as ingredients come into season and there is a daily specials board where Ben gets to showcase his unquestioned talents. The ingredients for his crispy Bath soft cheese (coated in hedge garlic seeds) with elderberry and hawthorn jelly, wild herb salad, fresh hazelnuts and nettle dressing (pictured) were all foraged from the pub’s land. The Seven Stars is a great place to sample local produce, all carefully presided over by a head chef who believes in what he is doing, backed by a team that have full confidence in those beliefs. Bradford Road, Winsley, Bradford-on-Avon. BA15 2LQ 01225 722 204 - www.sevenstarswinsley.co.uk

> flavour the george inn

Deep in the heart of Somerset this month, Cathy French discovers a chic country pub with a difference...

Situated on the Somerset Levels, just a short drive from the beach at Brean and postcard perfect, Wedmore, if it wasn’t a destination place before, then it soon will be. Totally self sufficient with its own deli, bakery, butchers, fishmongers, farm shop and at least half a dozen places to eat, it could yet rival Ludlow or Bray on the foodie front. As you wend your way through the village, you swing left up the hill and there, on the right hand side, is The George Inn - an imposing old coaching inn dating back to the 16th century. Once inside, you

the george inn

find yourself in a split level bar area; I immediately got excited about the aged, beaten copper bar top and the array of Victorian pictures jostling for space on the wood-panelled walls. Leading off the bar was a snug, just perfect for winter evenings with an open fireplace and a wellused red leather Chesterfield. We were taken to our room by Rachel, the owner, who had grown up in Wedmore and who, after years of restoring historic properties with her partner Gordon, returned to take over the George about a year ago. And a true labour of love it is. At the time of writing, three bedrooms are in use and there are a further five getting a makeover in the coming months, including a bridal suite with walkway to the adjacent church! Wedmore by name and wed more by nature it seems as The George also has its own marriage licence.

The George Inn Church Street Wedmore Somerset BS28 4AB 01934 712124 www.thegeorgewedmore.co.uk 58

With golden cherubs hanging from large windows, a wall of mirrors void of glass, old oak tables, flickering church candles and a stripped back floor, the restaurant definitely had the feel of Hogwarts! On the day we visited the local Young Farmers Club was in and so there was a nice hubbub. Menus were simply typed onto pieces of brown baking parchment and, while the food on offer is clearly of a high standard, not one description included a jus, a medallion or a triple cooked anything,

leaving you with the impression that the owners just want to serve good quality, uncomplicated food. Of course I had to sample the artisan bread (£3 per person), despite knowing it would fill me up. ‘Sample’ isn’t really the word as the chef bakes you your own mini loaf! Mine was red onion and cheese and it was delicious. Luckily, I hadn’t ordered too heavy a starter, having gone for a small size of the steamed River Exe mussels with cider, leeks and tarragon cream (£7). My partner had Fiddington asparagus, poached local duck egg, Parmesan, rocket and aged balsamic (£7). Both were superb. For our mains, Val chose the seared rib-eye steak, with all the usual accompanying veg and fries (£18) and I had the roast aubergine and goats cheese stack and fries (£12). As someone who doesn’t eat meat, I am often faced with a very limited choice, but I was pleased to see seven vegetarian or fish options on the menu. When the boyfriend ordered the pecan treacle tart, toffee sauce and honeycombed ice cream (£6) I had to try some - it was table thumpingly good. A lovely bottle of South African Chenin Blanc (£16) accompanied our meal, courtesy of Mendip Wines, and it was superb. Before I leave you googling The George at Wedmore, I must mention the very recent transformation of the inn’s old function room into a funky pizza and pasta place called ‘1760’. A passion for old pieces isn’t just limited to the owners – I don’t think there is a fixture or fitting in there that Alex, the chef, hasn’t reclaimed and made good. While we couldn’t physically eat in two places at once on the night we visited, I did go in for a quick recce and it was packed and vibrant and felt just as a proper Italian should. Pasta, pizza and salads range from £7 to £10. It would be wrong simply to review the food without mentioning the ambience of the George and the bedrooms, as what can be nicer than eating a delicious meal, accompanied by a bottle or two of wine and then not having the worry of driving home? Rachel is considering introducing a special dinner, bed and breakfast rate and so is worth asking about if, sorry, when you book. ■

> flavour mitch tonks

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

With sustainable fishing top on the agenda, each month new flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice... This month I’m focusing on what I want to call everyday dishes. Often we need to keep a budget in mind when feeding the family but that doesn’t mean that the food can’t be special. Individual preferences with children can be quite a challenge and with 5 children in and out of my house I’m only too aware of that! My youngest still comes to the fishmongers with me and loves trying anything, plates of oysters, urchins, crabs. Take young children along and get them involved and trying things early, you can start with a big bowl of hot garlicky mussels or maybe smoked haddock with a poached egg, or try just the odd oyster or maybe have a crab party! Cover the table with newspaper and wooden boards and small hammers, they will love it. I remember my grandmother keeping me quiet for hours like that! Food is so important, if we really want our children to appreciate fish as a pleasure and as a help in sustaining good health, involve and encourage them as much as possible – a weekly cookery lesson or time helping you shop and prepare supper is time well spent. Our fishmonger is often chatting to the kids who come in about how fishfingers are made and then showing them which fish is used and how it is cut and how to make their own. So below is a recipe, if you can call it that, so simple but so worthwhile. The other thing I often find successful with reluctant fish eaters is a fritto misto, fried fish eaten with little more than some lemon juice, a little oil and some parsely. ■ 60

Fritto Misto (crisp fried fish) Per person Ingredients A pinch of sea salt 300-400 g mixed fish (if buying fillets allow around 175 g) 250 ml milk a couple of handfuls of good strong white flour vegetable oil 2 lemons, cut into quarters a couple of tablespoons of chopped parsley Method Sprinkle a little sea salt over the prepared fish, then dip the fish one at a time into the milk and then into the flour, shaking them to remove any excess flour. Cover the base of a large, wide frying pan with about 1 centimetre of vegetable oil and heat to around 150-160 C, or until a cube of bread turns golden in 6-7 seconds when thrown into the oil. Fry each piece of fish until crisp and golden on each side. If you have any larger pieces of fish, remove them from the pan, place them on a roasting dish and finish the cooking in the oven, preheated to its maximum. You will not need to do this if you select smaller fish. Drain on kitchen paper before serving.

> flavour mitch tonks

ÂŠ Mitch Tonks. RockFish Grill & Seafood Market Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill Recipe taken from The Aga Seafood Cookbook by Mitch Tonks published by Absolute Press. Photo credit Jason Lowe 61

It is a super little inn at the heart of a splendid and welcoming small town. An impressive building, much of it dating back to the 17th century, it has a simple and sympathetic décor that complements the exposed stonewall and large, open fireplaces.

The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) states that 25 pubs are closing down each week in the UK, a frightening and depressing statistic for those in the trade, and for those who enjoy a pint and good pub grub. Bucking the trend, however, is The Catherine Wheel in Marshfield, which is celebrating 10 years under the guidence of Roo Allison among others.

Local produce is the name of the game when it comes to the home-cooked food, all freshly prepared by fully-trained chefs. A variety of eating areas are available that include an elegant dining room and a cosy sunny patio. Lunches and dinners should be taken advantage of at The Catherine Wheel, as any local will tell you. Simple British dishes including steak and kidney pie, pork tenderloin or fish and chips will satisfy many a palate, while the vegetarian options of artichoke heart and broad bean risotto or spinach and pine nut gnocchi sit well on any menu.

the catherine wheel The atmosphere is always relaxed and the service friendly which, combined with the excellent food and real ales, makes it an ideal place to put your feet up and end the day on a blissful high. Try the popular local Cotswold Spring Brewery's ‘Gloucester Glory’, or dip into the excellent wine list before retiring to one of the three comfortable en-suite guest rooms to complete your perfect evening. Marshfield is situated on the edge of the Cotswolds, ideally located for visiting a number of attractions including Cheltenham, Bristol, Bath, Castle Combe and Lacock. Being only five miles from junction 18 off the M4, it is also the perfect launch pad for sightseeing in Somerset, Wiltshire and Gloucestershire and there are several excellent countryside walks near by. The delightful atmosphere at The Catherine Wheel will make you feel at home, whether dining in the restaurant or relaxing in front of the TV in your room – a perfect retreat after a hard day at work, sightseeing or walking the Cotswold Way. We at flavour will be toasting Roo and her staff on this anniversary and wish them all another successful 10 years giving locals and visitors the quality and service they have enjoyed for so long.

The Catherine Wheel, The High Street, Marshfield SN14SLR

01225 892220

www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk

> flavour siân blunos

Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

The fragrant aromas of exotic spices have been prized since the dawn of civilisation. It’s a history of lands discovered, empires built and brought down, and wars won and lost. Spices were among the most valuable items of trade in ancient and medieval times and when European explorers discovered a sea route to India and other spice producing countries in the East, they fast became With their distinctive colours and flavours, spices can stimulate the appetite and enhance our food. They have little nutritional value, however some are used for health benefits in remedies in alternative medicine. With their intense flavours, spices can be a healthy alternative to adding salt and sugar in our diets. Here are some of my favourite spices that I use at home:

>Caraway seeds

These give a lovely aniseed flavour to any dish and are used to flavour breads, biscuits and stews. They are great with coleslaw or red cabbage. Help relieve colic.

>Cardamom seeds

They have an aromatic and pungent citrus flavour and can enhance both sweet and savoury dishes. They help relieve indigestion.

>Cinnamon

This has a warm, woody aroma with a hint of cloves and citrus. It is good with apricots, almonds, bananas, chocolate and lamb dishes. Acts as a nasal decongestant.

know your

SPICES >Coriander seeds

They have a woody, spicy fragrance with peppery and floral notes. Used in curry powders and good with chicken, fish, citrus fruits and pulses. Help stimulate the digestive system.

>Cumin seeds

They have a strong aroma and a slightly bittersweet taste and are popular components of curry powders. Can aid colic.

>Saffron

This is one of the most expensive spices around. It has a rich, pungent, musky floral flavour and is used in fish soups and stews, paella and risotto dishes. (pictured below)

>Fresh ginger

Has a rich and warm aroma used in savoury and sweet dishes like Thai curries and also good with seafood. A popular remedy for nausea.

These are just a few of my favourite spices that I use for family recipes. So, as you can see, reducing salt and sugar does not mean giving up flavour. Learn to season your food with herbs and spices, be creative and experiment for a new and exciting flavour.

Spicy cauliflower with cumin Makes 6-8 portions Ingredients 275g mashed potatoes 400g tinned chopped tomatoes 1 cauliflower, cut into florets 25g unsalted butter 1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 small chopped onion 1 chopped clove of garlic ¼ tsp powdered cumin Method 1 Put the cauliflower in a saucepan of boiling water. Cook, uncovered, for about 15 minutes or until tender and then strain. 2 Heat the butter and oil in a pan and gently fry the onion and garlic for about three minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes and cumin and simmer for a further five minutes. 3 Place the tomato mixture and the cauliflower in a food processor and whiz, or leave chunky for older children. Add to the mashed potato. Leave to cool then divide into portions and serve or freeze.

> flavour nick gregory

Jamie’s had his, The Libyans are having there’s and David Cameron may well be staring down the barrel of one of his own, but according to Nick Gregory there could be one uprising, but just a wee acorn at the moment, from which a mighty gastronomic oak may grow - let’s imagine a Polish Revolution…

polish revolution? Those things which I am saying now may be obscure, yet they will be made clearer in their proper place

‘Fancy a curry, a Chinese or a pizza?’ are common lines of prose down telephone lines, emails, texts or God forbid through orthodox conversations. Not such a common sound bite would be ‘Fancy a Polish?’ but that shouldn’t necessarily be the case anymore. There are more than half a million Polish-born immigrants in the UK and they, as other cultures and ethnic groups have done in the past, have brought with them their homeland cuisine and culinary tastes. It’s inconceivable to imagine that a Polish ‘golabki’ will supercede our national dish of chicken tikka masala, but who knows, perhaps once embedded in our social thinking and made as accessible as a local chippie, the curry may yet have another rival on its plate. As legendary Polish scientist Nicolaus Copernicus said: “Those things which I am saying now may be obscure, yet they will be made clearer in their proper place,” and the Poles have certainly found a place in the UK. So, what’s the vibe? Well, since the enlargement of the European Union in 2004, Polish delis, restaurants and bars have arisen all over the country at a rate of knots and the rustic and wholesome nature of the food, similar in many ways to traditional British food, is beginning to make its mark. The cuisine is a blend of hearty peasant dishes and more elegant gourmet fare that has succeeded in assuming a broad cross-section of cultural influences, both regional and foreign, but has not lost its distinctly Slavic flavour in the process.

Simple recipes, often including beetroot, cucumber, egg, mushroom and caraway seed will accompany root vegetables and meat. Bigos (hunter’s stew), with cabbage and meat, is a big favourite alongside Barszcz Czerwony, a beetroot soup served with mashed potato and bacon. Kielbasa, a smoked Polish sausage, is a staple of most Polish households, while Pierogi are dumplings filled with cabbage, mushrooms or even strawberries! These are definitely nourishing and undoubtedly wholesome and salutary dishes, but is this home cooking-based cuisine likely to take on the ‘Big Three’ found on most high streets? I just can’t see how it can. This is cooking from the heart and from history, an ability to whip up a tasty and appetizing repast from what little is available and just doesn’t fit the mould at the moment. But that’s not to say it wont in the future. Supermarkets are like bookies – they rarely get it wrong – and many are now devoting precious shelf and fridge space to the Polish cuisine, a pretty good indicator that the margins are there for the taking. So, perhaps not a revolution, but a definite ‘one to watch.’

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.