Flavour South West Issue 58

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South West

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Issue 58

who love local food

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Healthy Schools How local schools are promoting healthy livin

Your regular enliving edition

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Editor Emily Knight Email: emily@flavourmagazine.com Art Director Becky Hamblin Email: design@flavourmagazine.com

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Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Maggie Fox, Account Manager Email: maggie@flavourmagazine.com Photography Jeni Meade

welcome

Contributors Martin Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nick Harman, Duncan Shine, Megan Owen, Mitch Tonks, Laura Roberts, Angela Mount, Rob Magnuson Smith Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2013 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

39

The eagle-eyed amongst you will have spotted that there’s a new photo at the top of this page. After two fantastic years at the helm, Nick has moved on to pastures new, and we wish him all the best. Some of you may recognise me as the face of local award-winning food blog Bristol Bites which is now just over three years old: a three-year period that has given me some great ideas for features to tantalise and tempt you in future issues of Flavour!

Inside... 08 In Season Tom Bowles brings us the best of the season’s produce 20 Bill’s Restaurant, Bath Angela Mount visits one of Bath’s most recent openings 24 The Castle Bow Bar & Grill Emily Knight checks out Liam Finnegan’s menu 38 Flavour Meets Gordon Jones We talk to one of Bath’s most talked about chefs 39 Healthy Schools Find out how local schools are working to encourage healthy eating 61 Gluten Free All you need to know about gluten free dining in the South West

Please recycle this product.

A very warm welcome to the latest edition of Flavour!

In this issue we’re tackling the tough task of gluten free dining (page 61), offering suggestions, recipes and tips for those struggling to find restaurants that cater to their needs. We’ve even taken to Twitter to seek recommendations, with some results that we’re keen to try. Who else remembers school dinners of soggy pizzas and cold custard? Luckily, things have changed! Our schools feature (page 39) highlights the lengths that a number of our local schools are going to in order to encourage students to eat healthily, and not solely in terms of lunchtime offerings. Over the next few months we’ll be sending out a readers’ survey, so turn to page 74 to find out how to make sure you can be involved in shaping future issues.

Emily EMILY KNIGHT


If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month ?WZTL KTI[[ Å[P KPMN[ JIKS ZMWXMVQVO WN \P KMV\]Za QVV A top-class revamp of a dilapidated rural pub in Devon has been given a helping hand by two of the UK’s premier celebrity fish chefs. The 17th-century Anchor Inn at Ugborough reopened its doors at the end of March after a massive refurbishment that sees the pub bursting into life again after a year’s closure. Seafood champion Mitch Tonks has created a new menu featuring simple wood-fired cooking showcasing local meats and seafood, while award-winning Rick Stein’s famous barbecue oven, transported from his fish and chip outlet in Falmouth, takes pride of place in the kitchen. Mitch Tonks says: “I think this is going to be one of those places that people travel miles to be at. It captures what Devon is all about: beautiful scenery, cosy stylish interiors and fabulous food sourced from pretty much right outside its doors!” The 17th-century pub is situated in the heart of Devon on the edge of Dartmoor National Park. It has been completely made over, transforming the run-down building into a contemporary, stylish pub with restaurant and elegant accommodation in the inn and around the courtyard. The Anchor’s low-beamed bar, full of genuine character is warmed by a roaring log fire in winter whilst outside you can expect a blaze of colour with hanging baskets in spring and summer. It sets the style for a place to stay which is easy, relaxing, warm and welcoming. www.anchorinnugborough.co.uk

BRISTOL BARTENDER WINS BRISTOL HEAT OF THE 2013 ASAHI COCKTAIL COMPETITION Bristol bartender Chelsie Bailey has been crowned regional winner in the Bristol heat of the 2013 Asahi Cocktail Competition. Asahi is Japan’s number one premium beer, renowned for its clean, crisp and refreshing taste. Receiving CoolBrand status for 10 consecutive years, Asahi has firmly established itself as the super-premium beer of choice. The Asahi Cocktail Competition aims to find the best new cocktail in the UK, offering the winning bartender a once in a lifetime trip to Tokyo. It is the only freestyle competition in the country, allowing bartenders to use any ingredients to create an exceptional cocktail. The cocktail competition is all about introducing a brand new cocktail to the market, with a perfect balance of fun and charisma – both from the cocktail and the bartender! Chelsie’s winning cocktail, dubbed ‘The Exchange Student’, combined three-year-old Somerset cider brandy; red berry, hibiscus and lapsang souchong syrup, lemon juice and Asahi – beating Ella Holmberg from Nottingham’s ‘Brass Monkey’ and Hassan Mugambw and Thomas Quy, both from the Captains Club in Christchurch. Chelsie will now progress to the London final at a stunning new artspace in the West End - The Photographer’s Gallery. Good luck! www.asahibeer.co.uk

COMPETITION WINNER Congratulations go to Patricia Jenkinson from Batheaston, who wins an overnight stay for two at Stanton House

WELL DONE!


WIN! TICKETS FOR

BATH GOOD FOOD AWARDS RELAUNCHES UNDER NEW OWNERSHIP

HAPPY MONDAYS OR CARAVAN PALACE We’ve teamed up with VegfestUK – Europe’s biggest vegetarian festival – to offer a great prize to two lucky winners. The Bristol leg of the festival takes place over three days between May 24th and 26th, and includes over 120 stalls, vegetarian caterers, cookery demos, kids’ cookery classes and more.

WIN!

dŚĞ ĨĞƐƟǀĂů͛Ɛ ƉĞƌĨŽƌŵĂŶĐĞ ƐƚĂŐĞ ĨĞĂƚƵƌĞƐ ůŝǀĞ ŵƵƐŝĐ ĂŶĚ :Ɛ Ăůů ĚĂLJ͕ ǁŝƚŚ ŚĞĂĚůŝŶĞ ĂĐƚƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ĞǀĞŶŝŶŐƐ͗ ĂŶĚ ŝƚ͛Ɛ ƟĐŬĞƚƐ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞƐĞ ŚĞĂĚůŝŶĞ ĂĐƚƐ ƚŚĂƚ ǁĞ ĂƌĞ ŽīĞƌŝŶŐ ĂƐ Ă ĐŽŵƉĞƟƟŽŶ ƉƌŝnjĞ͘ KŶĞ ǁŝŶŶĞƌ ǁŝůů ƌĞĐĞŝǀĞ Ă ƉĂŝƌ ŽĨ ƟĐŬĞƚƐ ĨŽƌ ĂƌĂǀĂŶ WĂůĂĐĞ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ &ƌŝĚĂLJ ĞǀĞŶŝŶŐ ;ǁŽƌƚŚ άϯϱͿ͕ ĂŶĚ ĂŶŽƚŚĞƌ ǁŝůů ǁŝŶ Ă ƉĂŝƌ ŽĨ ƟĐŬĞƚƐ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ,ĂƉƉLJ DŽŶĚĂLJƐ ŽŶ ƚŚĞ ^ĂƚƵƌĚĂLJ ĞǀĞŶŝŶŐ ;ǁŽƌƚŚ άϱϱͿ͘ dŝĐŬĞƚƐ ĨŽƌ ďŽƚŚ ĞǀĞŶŝŶŐƐ ĂƌĞ ĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞ ĨƌŽŵ ǁǁǁ͘ƚŚĞƟĐŬĞƚƐĞůůĞƌƐ͘ĐŽ͘ƵŬ For your chance to win, email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with VegFestUK in the subject header and your full contact details in the email body. More details of the festival are available at www.bristol.vegfest.co.uk Good luck!

The Bath Good Food Awards are being relaunched in 2013 under new ownership.

Business owner and management consultant Bill Cooper has acquired the business, along with co-directors Angela Mount, Bath-based wine and food expert – and Flavour columnist, who has been involved with the awards for the last two years, and Rudy Millard and Anthony Bowles from Guide2Bristol.com The Bath Good Food Awards 2013 will be launched at the end of April, with new categories and plans for a major awards event to be held in the autumn. A team of high calibre judges from across the food and drink industry will be on board to support the restaurant and café judging process, along with the local producers’ awards. To keep up to date with the team’s plans, follow them on Twitter @bathgoodfood.

UK’S TOP FESTIVAL OF FOOD & DRINK RETURNS TO BRISTOL HARBOURSIDE Foodies Festival, Bristol Harbourside, Friday 12, Saturday 13 and Sunday 14 July Foodies Festival is delighted to return to Bristol Harbourside this July. The UK’s largest celebration of food and drink will see visitors flock from the surrounding areas to feast on the vast array of culinary activities for the third consecutive year in Bristol. Foodies Festivals also take place at Brighton, Tatton Park in Cheshire, Hampton Court Palace, Clapham Common, Edinburgh, Battersea Park London and Oxford.

The event will include a Chefs’ Theatre starring local heroes such as Romy Gill, Ronnie Faulkner, Chris Staines and Martin Blunos (pictured), alongside an extensive Producers’ Market selling a vast array of artisan produce from the local area. The Cake and Bake Theatre, Chocolate Theatre, BBQ Arena and Wine Village offer further entertainment, while a brand new dining and VIP area will serve up signature dishes from the best local restaurants.

Street food, children’s cookery demos, a city beach and more are all available to those visiting the festival between July 12th and 14th – for more information visit www.foodiesfestival.com


> flavour this month

Outdoor Gourmet opens specialist barbecue and outdoor-cooking shop in Buckfastleigh The Outdoor Gourmet official launch provided the ultimate experience for guests who watched master chef Peter Gorton demonstrate ‘Top Tips’ for stylish cooking, grilling, smoking and barbecueing. Peter Gorton joined owner and director John Watkins during the official opening launch, which took place in the new specialist outdoor cooking appliance shop at 3 Dean Court Farm Shop, Lower Dean, Buckfastleigh. The shop features a great range of outdoor cooking appliances, including the Kamado Joe, the Fornetto wood-fired garden oven and the Bradley Smoker range. Master chef Peter demonstrated to a specially select audience, including top awardwinning chefs, hoteliers, restaurateurs and local farm producers Riverford Farm Shops Ltd., Pipers Farm and Pennywell Farm, putting his culinary skills to the test in providing a fun demonstration on easy ways to barbecue some sumptuous recipes. Director of Outdoor Gourmet, John Watkins, said,”Our cooking appliances, are not just for high days and holidays! We cook on them ourselves, as there is nothing like enjoying the outdoors with good tasty and flavoursome food.” Master chef Peter Gorton said, ”Although we do not experience the sunny hot climates of other countries, we have noticed an increase in popularity with people, pubs and restaurants cooking on outdoor cooking appliances. It certainly provides a more social, relaxing and entertaining way to spend time with your friends and family. I am looking forward to an exciting summer ahead working on some great projects with Outdoor Gourmet, whatever the weather!” www.outdoorgourmet.co.uk

Bristol’s award-winning micro-chain gain Gold South West Fairtrade Business Award The Better Food Company, Bristol’s organic and FairTrade stores and café in St Werburghs and Clifton, have been presented with a Gold Fairtrade award. The Awards were presented by entrepreneur and chef Levi Roots at a ceremony at the Colston Hall on Friday 8th March which was opened by the Mayor of Bristol, George Ferguson. “The focus of our shops and café is on organically produced goods,” says Phil Haughton, Better Food Company’s MD, “but beyond a concern for sustainability and the environment is a very connected belief in the wellbeing of people.” 6

Other category winners included Better Food Company suppliers, the co-operative Essential Trading. Fairtrade co-ordinator Jenny Foster said: “The aim of the Awards is to increase sales of and support for Fairtrade amongst businesses in the region, by promoting those businesses that support Fairtrade and encouraging others to do more. Increasing sales of Fairtrade products enables more small producers in the developing world to make a sustainable living.” www.betterfood.co.uk


> flavour this month

BRISTOL’S TOP RESTAURANTS ANNOUNCED FOR EAT DRINK BRISTOL FASHION The spectacular pop-up ‘tipi’ restaurant, café and performance venue returns to Bristol this May. Organisers of Eat Drink Bristol Fashion the spectacular pop-up ‘tipi’ restaurant, cafe and performance venue – have released the line-up of guest restaurants that will be offering lunch and dinner menus at the two-week extravaganza in Queen Square. With a purpose built restaurant situated in the iconic ‘tipi village’, each day a different guest establishment will take a turn to wow diners with their special menus from 13 to 27 May.

EDITOR’S PICK FUEL BREAKFAST RANGE I have to admit, I’m often guilty of skipping breakfast. I’m know that it’s the most important meal of the day, but often find myself running out of time in the mornings. Barney Mauleverer and Alex Matheson are well aware that I’m not the only one, and that’s why they’ve developed milkbased breakfast drink Liquid FUEL: the first-ever boosted milk drink to be sold in the cereal aisle. The pair’s Dorset-based company have had a hand in developing brands such as Burts Crisps, Eat Natural Cereal Bars

and Innocent Drinks in the past, but FUEL is their first own-brand product. Primarily targeted at ‘breakfast skippers’, the drinks offer more nutrition than a bowl of mainstream brand cereal with more than 20g protein, 5g fibre, a blend of B vitamins and less than 1% fat. We also sampled their Loaded Granola – crunchy toasted oat clusters interspersed with huge chunks of chocolate and packed with guarana for energy and B vitamins for a healthy lifestyle. We have a feeling that this and the breakfast drink are both going to be a hit with timehungry – and hungry – customers!

For two weeks Eat Drink Bristol Fashion will bring together some of the city’s most revered restaurants to attract visitors to the impressive tipi village. The line up includes The Pony & Trap, Casamia, Bell’s Diner, The Pumphouse and many more. Ticket prices for these tasting menus have been set by each restaurant and range from £45 to £65 pounds each. There will be between 60 and 100 tickets available for each event. More information about the restaurants included – plus ticket booking – is available online. www.eatdrinkbristolfashion.co.uk

FUEL The Fuel Station Dorset SP7 9HP Visit www.fuelyour10khours.com

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> flavour in season

Kale Kale is a descendant of the cabbage family. It is also a very hardy winter vegetable despite its leafy appearance. Kale has a much richer flavour than some cabbage varieties and, like all good greens, is packed with goodness. Small kale leaves are often younger and can be sweeter but avoid discoloured leaves as these may be past their best. Large leaves often come with thicker stalks that require more cooking than the leaves, so be careful. It is also best as soon as it has been picked, as it doesn’t store too well.

At their best

right Leeks

The mighty leek is a super food in its own right. Packed with antioxidants and vitamins, a good dose of leek will help stave off any cold. Leeks are part of the same family as onion and garlic but generally have a sweeter and subtler flavour. Early baby leeks are sweeter than their older, woodier versions and can be eaten simply on their own as a starter. The later varieties are hardier and have bags of flavour to form the base of any stock or winter soup. Always pick firm stalks with bright green tips. Avoid dehydrated, brownishlooking tips.

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> flavour in season

Wild garlic As it’s not usually available from supermarkets, wild garlic is something that has to be foraged, a luxury in itself. It is noticeable by its mellow but very apparent smell when you’re out embracing the countryside! Make sure you pick, clean undamaged leaves and give them a good wash before you make use of them. Wild garlic has a much more subtle flavour than conventional bulbs of garlic, which makes it a great addition to pesto, soups and salads – used raw.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

now

Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: @hartleyFarm

Watercress Crunchy, peppery and part of the mustard family, watercress is a semi-aquatic plant and is said to have more vitamin C than fresh oranges and more calcium than cows’ milk. Make sure you buy watercress that has crisp leaves with a deep green colour to ensure it is as fresh as can be and hasn’t lost any of its bite. It’s great blended in with fresh juices, or another refreshing but more warming option is to cook it with some wonderfully juicy, in-season pears and blend it into a lush, peppery yet fruity soup. 9


In Season Recipes THE WATERCRESS COMPANY’S

THE KILTED CHEF’S

THE COMMUNITY FARM’S

Watercress Omelette with Mushroom and Stilton

Salmon with Chicory, Roquefort and Leeks

Kale, Cheddar and Onion Tart

SERVES 1 INGREDIENTS

SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS

SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS

15g butter

3lb salmon, skinned and boned

500g shortcrust pastry dough

75g sliced chestnut mushrooms

6oz leeks

Knob of butter

3 eggs

4oz Roquefort cheese

200g kale

25g Stilton

2oz butter

1 onion, sliced

45g watercress

1 head of chicory

2 garlic cloves, sliced

Readymade puff pastry

1 bay leaf

METHOD

Beaten egg to glaze

1 egg, beaten

1. Melt the butter in a small non-stick frying pan. Add the sliced mushrooms and cook over a high heat until golden. Remove from pan with a slotted spoon.

Juice of ½ a lemon

150g cheese

2. Stir a handful of chopped watercress into the beaten eggs and season with salt and pepper. Pour the eggs into the hot pan and tilt the pan to cover the base with the mixture. 3. Reduce to a moderate heat and cook until the omelette is just set and the underside is golden brown. Scatter the mushrooms and crumbled Stilton over the top. 4. Slide the omelette onto a plate and fold in half. Garnish with extra watercress and serve immediately.

Salt and pepper METHOD METHOD

1.Preheat your oven to 180ºC.

1. Cut the fish in half lengthways into two fillets

2. Roll out the shortcrust pastry until it’s roughly the thickness of a 20p piece.

2. Cream the cheese, half the butter and the lemon and season. Spread onto one of the fillets and place the other fillet on top.

3. Line a 23cm tart tin with the pastry, and bake blind for 15 minutes.

3. Saute the leeks and chicory in butter and lemon juice, and place on top of the fish when cooled.

4. Meanwhile, melt a knob of butter in a pan. Sweat the onion and the garlic with the bay leaf for 5-10 minutes until golden and beginning to caramelise.

4. Roll out the puff pastry, place the fish in the centre and wrap tightly, making sure the corners are well tucked in.

5. Roughly chop the kale and cook down in the pan for a few minutes before removing from the heat.

5. Glaze the pastry with beaten egg and lightly score with a fork.

6. Grate the cheese (use Cheddar, Gruyere or whatever else you fancy) and add three quarters of it to the kale mixture, along with the beaten egg. Season with salt and pepper and spoon the mixture into the tart case.

6. Cook for 35 minutes at gas mark 7 or 220C. 7. Serve warm with a sweet cherry tomato and ground pistachio salad, with a light mustard oil.

Visit www.thewatercresscompany.co.uk 10

Visit www.kiltedchef.co

7. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and bake for 20-25 minutes.

Visit www.thecommunityfarm.co.uk


> flavour in season recipes

THE VEGETARIAN COOKERY SCHOOL’S

Wild Garlic Soup SERVES 1 INGREDIENTS 1 onion, chopped 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 250g new potatoes, scrubbed & cubed 125g wild garlic leaves, washed and roughly chopped 1 litre vegetable stock or 1 litre water with 2 tsp vegetable bouillon squirt of lemon salt & freshly ground black pepper

METHOD 1. In a large saucepan, sauté the onion in the rapeseed oil for about 10 minutes until soft. Add the cubed potatoes and quickly stir-fry. Add the stock to the onion and potatoes. Simmer until the potatoes are just soft, which will take 15 minutes, depending on the size of the cubes of potato. 2. Add the wild garlic, cover and simmer for a couple of minutes until cooked but still a vibrant green colour. Either serve at once still chunky, or liquidise to a smooth consistency. 3. Check for seasoning and add a squirt of lemon juice, salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Decorate with garlic flower buds. Serve hot. Visit www.vegetariancookeryschool.com

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RING O’BELLS A traditional country pub in Somerset

Julie and Nigel Bourne welcome you to our lovely 14th-century inn in Wookey. We serve great beers, great ciders and food to satisfy – all in a traditional country pub setting. Our lovely terrace catches the sun from morning till late afternoon. We pride ourselves on quality; quality service, quality drinks and quality food. WE SOURCE AS MUCH OF OUR INGREDIENTS L O C A L LY A S POSSIBLE  S U S TA I N I N G N O T O N LY T H E L O C A L FA R M I N G C O M M U N I T Y, B U T OUR CUSTOMERS AS WELL.

We don’t do ‘fine dining’, but we do serve fine food in a lovely setting. People say we serve the best pub food they’ve ever had. Our chef, Carl Mitchell, is renowned as one of the finest in Somerset. We have a discreet private dining room seating 16, which is also available for small meetings. Our large function room is perfect for celebrations and other gatherings. The Ring O’Bells is a family-friendly pub. We welcome children and we’re also dog friendly. Ring O’ Bells, High Street, Wookey, Somerset BA5 1JZ Telephone 01749 678079 www.ringobellswookey.co.uk / www.wadworth.co.uk/wookey/ring_o’bells


-7 flavour lab lood le reads

fab foodie reads For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

THE GREAT BRITISH

FARMHOUSE COOKBOOK

The youngest daughter of Roger and Mary Mead, who started Yeo Valley in 1961, Sarah's collection of over 100 recipes is inspired by the traditions of the British farmhouse kitchen but with a modern twist. The book, beautifully illustrated with photographs taken over a year on the farm, includes recipes for all occasions, capturing the true taste of today"s country cooking and bringing the fresh ingredients and seasonal flavours of a farmhouse kitchen into your own home.

A GOOD EGG: A YEAR OF RECIPES FROM AN URBAN HEN-KEEPER Eggs are simple and versatile: a great source of protein, low in fat, and the basis for so many great dishes. Bristol-based Genevieve Taylor, looking for ways to make the best use of the huge number of eggs produced by her own chickens, has created a year's worth of recipes that are inspired by the seasons. The result is a beautifully presented book, with recipes introduced by season and preceded by details of Genevieve's inspiration for each dish. From cauliflower bhajis to chakchouka with merguez sausages and baked eggs, her influences are broad, and a great way of highlighting how such a humble ingredient can be transformed into something far more spectacular.

WHAT TO EAT? 10 CHEWY QUESTIONS ABOUT FOOD The decisions about the food we put on our plates are becoming more and more complicated. Is meat good or bad for us? Is buying local always best? Is organic worth it?

What to Eat asks all these questions and more: a journey through science, nature and the food industry to expose the myths and unveil the truth about what we eat. With interviews with bloggers, farmers, food producers and more, it's a comprehensive and wellresearched read that's a must for any foodie.

PARTICULAR DELIGHTS: COOKING FOR ALL THE SENSES First published in 1981, this newly designed edition of Particular Delights features over 150 recipes designed to appeal to all five of the sensescomplete with fantastic original line drawings from the original edition. Hambro's recipes use imaginative combinations of ingredients to create dishes such as brown bread praline, nasturtium and avocado salad and smoked tea ice cream with crystallised mint leaves. Great for those who enjoy using familiar flavours in new and different ways. 13


Wedding Showcase Sunday 21st April 2013 2pm - 6pm Join us for Full Afternoon Tea between 3.00pm and 5.30pm at a special rate of £15.00 per person Just quote ‘Flavour’ when booking your Afternoon Tea to receive this fantastic offer. All pre-booked Afternoon Tea’s will be entered into a prize draw for the chance to win a complimentary Spa Day for two!

CHARLTON HOUSE SOMERSET

Shepton Mallet | Somerset | BA4 4PR | T 01749 342 008 | F 01749 346 362 enquiries.charltonhousehotel@bannatyne.co.uk | www.bannatyne.co.uk


askachef: Q

What is the best way to poach an egg? Mine are never any good and always look a disaster! Georgia Barry, Taunton Firstly you need a deep saucepan. Bring your water to the boil then reduce to a simmer. Add a cap full of either distilled vinegar or white wine vinegar – be careful not to put too much vinegar in as eggs are very porous. Crack your egg into a small container and leave to the side. Create a vortex with the simmering water by whisking the water clockwise. Add the egg into the centre. If your egg is at room temperature, cook for three-and-a-half minutes in a slow simmering pan for a nice runny yolk. We always have a clean pan of tepid water and dip the poached egg into it for two reasons: 1. To stop the cooking of the egg. 2. Wash off the vinegar water. Season with salt and pepper and enjoy.

Q

If you’re advising home cooks to spend money on one piece of equipment, what would it be and why? James Potter, Bridgwater

After your knives and basic cooking pots and pans I always advise on a stick blender/ processor. Hand blenders are very reasonable these days. Most come with various attachments so you can make soups, salsas, breadcrumbs, purées, compotes etc. The list is endless.

Liam Finnegan Liam Finnegan is Head Chef of The Castle at Taunton. An award-winning chef, Liam’s career experience includes The Bath Priory and Gidleigh Park, as well as Pierre Gagnaire’s famous three-star Paris restaurant.

Q

What is the best potato for making chips? Jess Mullan, Blackdown Hills The most universal potato for chipping, mashing and baking would be the Maris Piper. Other potatoes great for chipping are King Edwards, Romano or Desirée potatoes. There are a lot of things that hamper the potato — weather being the most influential. If it’s a wet season — it only makes sense that the root vegetable will draw in more moisture. So when cooking, it’s a nightmare for most people — especially when roasting. For chipping you often read triple cooked and twice cooked. This means parcooking, usually at a low temperature and finishing around 180ºC. You can use a good vegetable oil or follow tradition and use some dripping or lard.

Q

How do I stop pasta from sticking together? Sarah Peters, Plymouth Make sure your water is boiling, usually four parts water to your pasta. Most packet pasta is dehydrated so it takes a lot of water to cook it. When adding the pasta to the water don’t add it in all at once — add bit by bit and stir it gently. Reduce the water to simmering and check by having a bite and feel (throwing it against the wall is fun but it’s a bit of extra cleaning after cooking!). When straining off the pasta always leave a little bit of water in the bottom and leave it covered until serving. You can add a dash of oil once strained off but if your sauce is cream-based it won’t cling to the pasta, as it’s oil and fat.

Castle Bow Bar & Grill, Taunton TA1 1NF 01823 328328 ^^^ JHZ[SLIV^ JVT 15


> flavour how to

how to trim a beef fillet Jon Thorner demonstrates

The fillet is the most tender cut of beef available. Coming from the non-weight bearing section of the cow, it is not toughened by exercise, guaranteeing the tenderness – and making it the most expensive cut of beef on the menu. It can be more cost-effective to buy a whole beef fillet compared to individual steaks: speak to your butcher and see what they can offer. All good butchers will trim a whole fillet for you if you ask, but if you fancy having a go yourself, follow our step-by-step guide. Tip: don’t throw away any of the trim. It can be used to make a fantastic beef stock or for a great sauce to accompany the steak.

Watch the video in full on the Jon Thorner channel on YouTube, or scan this code with your smartphone.

1. Source your beef fillet from a reputable butcher and make sure it’s as locally sourced as possible.

2. The thin white sinew is called ‘silver’, and needs removing. Using a sharp knife, place through the silver and cut away from the beef.

3. Turn the fillet over and remove any larger pieces of fat and sinew.

4. If cutting fillets, use the centre piece and cut a 4cm wide steak – be generous. To cook, use a hot pan, season with salt and pepper and with a little oil, cook for 3 minutes each side for rare, 4-5 minutes each side for medium and 6 minutes each side for well done.

Twitter: @JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorner’s Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop Pylle, Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA 01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk 16

5. The large top end of the fillet is also perfect for beef Wellington. The small, narrow end can be used for beef carpaccio or beef stroganoff. The centre cut is the prime section for your fillet steaks, or roast whole for chateaubriand.


> flavour martin blunos

BOING-BOING, IT’S SPRING Allegedly spring is upon us, all manner of stuff is sprouting from the ground, little lambs are a-bouncing and our British larder is preparing to be filled with some terrific produce.

Smoked salmon cakes

We cooks relish this time of year: after the monotonous fare of winter, we can all soon go Technicolor and by taking inspiration from here, there and everywhere I sense it’s going to be a very good season food-wise!

225g smoked salmon

Most recently I’ve been taking inspiration from Georgia, Gibraltar and Durham. Pretty global don’t you think?

1 tbsp finely chopped chives

I didn’t get to travel to Russia, only as far as a Georgian restaurant in London to learn about their cuisine. The kitchen team is half Georgian and half Italian, with limited English spoken. I fitted in swimmingly with my pigeon Russian (all three words) and my Italian all wrapped up in a West Country burr…you’ve got it…lots of nodding and pointing to get things done!

1 medium egg, beaten

INGREDIENTS 500g floury potatoes, unpeeled but washed and scrubbed clean 3 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 tbsp finely chopped dill 1 tbsp capers, drained and chopped A squeeze of lemon juice 75g fresh breadcrumbs 15g butter Milled black pepper

I did, however, get to jet off to Gibraltar (the last time I was there was way back in 1970 on a school trip/cruise aboard the SS Nevasa – I can’t honestly remember much apart from lots of seasick kids and decks swimming with vegetable soup!). This time around was to judge a Masterchef-style competition – with competitors cooking a black tie dinner for 40 atop the rock!

1. Preheat the oven to 220ºC/200ºC fan/gas mark 7. 2. Put the potatoes into a large saucepan and cover with plenty of cold water, adding a little salt. Bring to the boil for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to low and cook for another 20–30 minutes until tender. Drain, and whilst still hot (use a tea towel to hold them), peel them and mash immediately until they are free of lumps. 3. Place the smoked salmon on the baking tray. Drizzle the salmon with 1 tablespoon of the rapeseed oil, and then bake in the oven for 6–8 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. 4. Put the potato, onion, chives, dill, capers, lemon juice, egg and breadcrumbs into a large mixing bowl. Roughly tear the smoked salmon into small pieces and add to the mix. Use a spoon to stir everything together – the salmon will break up further as you mix. Season with pepper, but no salt: you won’t need any due to the saltiness of the salmon. 5. Shape the mixture into six cakes, each about 8cm (3in) wide. 6. To cook, pour the remaining 2 tablespoons of rapeseed oil into a large frying pan on a medium heat and add the butter. When the butter has melted and starts to foam, add the fish cakes and fry for 3–5 minutes on each side or until golden brown and crispy. Drain on kitchen paper.

What I know about the North East you could doodle on the back of a packet of Doritos, but if plans work out then I will have ample opportunity to find out more of what the county has to offer! With all of these places being near the sea, I thought I’d go for a little fishy number this month!

METHOD

Follow me on Twitter: @martinblunos1

Serve with a green salad, lemon wedges and a dollop of mayonnaise.

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks.

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> flavour profile

flavour meets simple simon Emily Knight chats to company director Simon Hall ...

I’m sitting in the River Cottage Canteen on Whiteladies Road, having a chat with Simon Hall, one of the three directors of Bristol-based firm Simple Simon Design. A fitting location for our meeting, as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s Clifton venture is their latest high-profile project. Simple Simon Design were responsible for changing the layout of the building to maximise covers, introducing a large commercial kitchen and sourcing local fixtures and fittings to fit with the values of the River Cottage brand. All of this was done in collaboration with River Cottage, the conservation officer and the planning department to ensure that all changes to the 19th-century church building would be in keeping with the building itself whilst enhancing the dining experience. Environmentally-friendly paint, oak laths from Brecon, tiles from Wiltshire and a staircase created within 10 miles of the restaurant give River Cottage an industrial, recycled feel: a trend that Simon has seen a lot over the last few years. “It’s to do with fashion,” says Simon. “In my opinion, in times of austerity you often see trends going back a few years. People are recycling ideas all the time but particularly in times of recession. If you look at places like the Central Perk (the coffee house in sitcom Friends), it’s 18

like being at your mum and dad’s house – bits and pieces collected over time. A lot of where we’re at now is influenced by that: in part by industrial chic, and in part by this look back at tradition and the reassurance of old-fashioned values.” What Simple Simon do is not all about the industrial and reclaimed feel, with clients such as Tinc giving them a very different focus. Says Simon of the colourful stationery and gadget brand, “Their first shop was in Bath. They have an incredibly colourful product and they want an almost pharmaceutically clean appearance. The plainer it is, the better their product just shouts. This was much more minimal, and these are the two extremes of what’s going on at the moment: extreme clinical modernity versus very deep, rustic, industrial textures.” Now in their 10th year of business, it’s really only been the last two years that have seen phenomenal growth for Simple Simon. “Whilst those first eight years were hard, they were huge useful – we dealt with so many sole operators who had their own aims and objectives for what they wanted the place to be, mostly on a very tight budget. We really did learn the cost and value of everything, and ways of creating spaces as economically as possible – most importantly, what matters to them.”

Setting the tone and getting the visuals right isn’t everything: one of the most important things is to understand the operational needs of the business. “The first thing we do when we’re given any new project is to put together a black and white plan of the whole space and the best way of dividing it up,” says Simon. “Some people want as many customers as possible, while others want a more open, relaxed environment. That comes down to who they are, what they’re trying to present and their business model. That’s what Simple Simon is: yes, it’s design, yes, it’s interiors but its fulfilling a business need to a sector that’s had a pretty tough few years.” Much of each project consists of the ‘compliance stuff’: talking to planning officers, ensuring that the business has the right number of toilets for the number of customers and so on. However, a key focus is on ensuring that what Simple Simon do suits the target market of the business, reflects what they are offering and makes the best possible use of the space available. “Take Graze Bath,” says Simon. “It’s an amazing building with huge windows on each side: one overlooking the station, and one overlooking the town. Everything inside is deliberately kept low


> flavour profile

design

to maintain all that wonderful natural light and because you don’t need to do too much decoration: there’s so much to see outside that’s of interest.” With only five full-time employees and a part-time bookkeeper, the company may seem small but is continually growing, with the directors aiming to continue to recruit graduate interior designers. It’s word of mouth that’s key to their success, and their plan is to expand even further afield, taking their success in the South West to a wider audience around the UK. Whatever happens, Simple Simon Design won’t forget their roots, and won’t lose that personal touch. “We’re so proud of what we’ve achieved in Bristol and Bath,” says Simon. “We’ve got some great enquiries in the area, but we’re also keen to spread our wings. “Almost all of our work has come from word of mouth, so making sure that people are happy is absolutely the single most important thing. We really do have that enthusiasm for businesses to succeed and deliver – and when it’s somewhere you want to go yourself, it’s particularly satisfying. We’re very much looking forward to seeing what the future brings!” www.simplesimondesign.co.uk 19


> flavour Bill’s restaurant

Angela Mount visits one of Bath’s newest restaurants …

Bill’s Bath B

ath is already full of restaurants and cafes, so it was with a high degree of interest that I visited Bill’s in Bath for the first time, wondering what this establishment could offer that was different from all the other daytime and evening eateries in the city. I visited three weeks after opening, on a freezing cold, drizzly March day — expecting to find it half-filled and quiet. I walked into a bustling, packed room with a lively, buzzing atmosphere. It was lunchtime and tables were filled with a mix of business people in for late morning meetings over numerous long flat whites; shoppers and friends meeting for lunch; and mothers with youngsters, although I was relieved to note that the venue had not turned into a car park for prams and buggies. It was an engaging and very accommodating mix, which fitted perfectly with the décor and vibe of the restaurant. How to describe it? It’s a busy mix of restaurant, café bar and deli, all rolled into one, which somehow works. It all reflects the origins of the first Bill’s, with Bill Collison having started a fruit and veg shop in Lewes at the age of 22. He has never looked back. Bill set up his first café in 2001, stacking the shelves with his produce, jams and chutneys and serving honest, flavoursome, home-cooked style lunches in a relaxed environment that

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quickly became a destination point for residents. Having established a strong following in Lewes and Bristol, Bill’s has now opened in a number of towns across the country, with Bath being the latest. Situated in Cheap Street in the shadow of the Abbey, the restaurant interior reminded me of one of the bustling shops in Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley, but instead of elder wands and chocolate frogs, the walls were lined with open shelves heaving with oils, jams, pickles, fruit juices, recipe books, gift boxes of produce, all surrounded by chalk boards proudly telling the story of what Bill’s is all about. Solid,wooden tables, casual chairs and distressed leather banquettes and armchairs dotted around the various corners of the room provide a cosy, almost clubby feel, and the vibe is relaxed with cool jazz and laid-back music complementing rather than dominating the atmosphere. A full breakfast menu is served from 8am, with options ranging from full English through blueberry pancake stacks to eggs Florentine and healthy granola and yoghurt. The lunchtime and evening menu is broad and covers most eventualities, with a focus on comfort food and also grazing platters, with a strong element of Mediterranean-inspired dishes. A bowl of plump, juicy green olives were a flavoursome treat as my guest and

I perused the menu. We watched the neighbouring table tucking into a vast sharing board of mezze, the platter overflowing with all manner of things Mediterranean, including halloumi, hummus, tomato salsa, baba ganoush, olives and warm pitta, but we opted to try some of Bill’s signature dishes. My crab, salmon and chilli fishcakes were just the right starter size, the crunchy little bundles filled with soft fish and a welcome kick of chilli, which was tempered by the cool texture of the fresh mango and lemon salsa. Bill’s prawn and avocado cocktail was well seasoned with a good texture, and lots of fat, juicy prawns playing amongst the tomato, avocado and cocktail sauce. Main courses feature some retro classics, including rib-eye steak, well-stacked hamburgers and beer battered fish and chips. There is also the ultimate comfort food dish of a home-made fish finger sandwich, complete with toasted white bread and ketchup. My guest opted for the traditional fish pie, served in a heavy, castiron dish, with a rich mix of teeny scallops, smoked haddock, salmon and prawns bound in a well-flavoured white sauce and topped with a generous portion of cheesy mash – nursery food at its best! I opted for one of the Mediterranean, or rather North African, inspired dishes, with a rich stew of monkfish in a surprisingly pungent broth


> flavour Bill’s restuarant

of tomato, fennel, coriander, spicy garam masala and zesty lemon – flavoursome and wholesome.

daughter’s favourite, the totally indulgent warm mini cinnamon doughnuts with chocolate dipping sauce.

We could not resist ordering a bowl of the pearl barley risotto with chestnut mushrooms and thyme, whose aromas had wafted past us to another table. The texture of a risotto is always a good testing point for busy restaurants, and this was my favourite dish – using pearl barley rather than rice provided an interesting nutty flavour which perfectly complemented the soft mushrooms; creamy, rich and with just the right texture, this is a perfect dish for our current weather patterns!

The staff are young, well-trained and, above all, enthusiastic. As with all new restaurants there are a few rough edges to work on, but what impressed me was the way that the Bath community seemed to have adopted Bill’s as one of its own in a very short space of time. Friday night was fully booked, and reports tell me that the place is packed for Sunday brunch.

There are also crisp Mediterranean salads with feta, watermelon, halloumi and roasted peppers in various guises, as well as the classic chicken Caesar salad. The specials change daily and, on this visit, included crispy Cornish squid with aioli and slow-cooked BBQ pork ribs. A short but varied wine list covered all eventualities. The pudding menu continues the comfort food theme, which seems to be at the heart of the menu, and fits with the cosy atmosphere. Traditional favourites include Eton Mess, rhubarb crumble, lemon meringue pie, cheesecake, brown bread and marmalade ice cream, and my

As we left, the next wave of visitors were coming in, picking from the wide selection of teas and coffees. You get the feeling that this constant wave of customers starts in the early morning and segues into the evening. Relaxed and inviting.

The specials change daily and, on this visit, included crispy Cornish squid with aioli and slow cooked BBQ pork ribs.

Bill’s Restaurant 7-8 Cheap Street, Bath BA1 1NE Call 01749 860253 Email bath@bills-email.co.uk Visit www.bills-website.co.uk

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the

BUTCHER’S

tip

Rib-Eye Steaks Nigel Buxton supplies Josh Eggleton of the Michelin-starred Pony & Trap in Chew Magna with all meats. However it is his dry-aged steaks which are most popular with the top local chef. The good news is that these steaks are also available to flavour readers at Nigel’s Winterbourne shop.

Buxton Butchers 62 Bradley Avenue, Winterbourne, Bristol BS32 1HS Call 01454 773 213 Email info@ buxtonbutchers.co.uk Visit www.buxtonbutchers.co.uk The Pony & Trap Newtown, Chew Magna, Bristol BS40 8TQ Call 01275 332 627 www.theponyandtrap.co.uk

Nigel says: “The best rib-eye steak is dry-aged for a minimum of 21 days with a good degree of marbling. When cut, it should look dry and dark red in colour.”

dkZc hZi id *%°X VcY Xdd` [dg ild ]djgh Å ^[ rushed for time, set the oven to a higher temperature and cook for a shorter duration, though this will impinge on the taste.

Josh Eggleton’s steak recipe reads like a paean to the much vaunted rib-eye cut. The rib-eye is comfortingly paired with chunky chips, field mushrooms and vine tomatoes, while a balsamic glaze, which can be made well in advance, adds a restaurant quality touch to the dish.

4. For the chips, peel the potatoes and cut ^cid aVg\Z! X]jc`n X]^eh# EaVXZ i]Z X]^eh ^cid a large pan and cover with cold water and sea hVai# EaVXZ dc i]Z ]dW VcY Wg^c\ je id i]Z Wd^a#

JOSH’S RIB-EYE STEAK RECIPE ' g^W"ZnZ hiZV`h XgVX`ZY WaVX` eZeeZg hZV hVai kZ\ZiVWaZ d^a Balsamic glaze (%%ba d[ WVahVb^X k^cZ\Vg **\ d[ XVhiZg hj\Vg Slow-roasted vine tomatoes ) k^cZ idbVidZh ' heg^\h d[ i]nbZ hZV hVai XgVX`ZY WaVX` eZeeZg Chunky chips *%%\ d[ BVg^h E^eZg ediVidZh hZV hVai Field mushrooms ) aVg\Z ÑZaY bjh]gddbh kZ\ZiVWaZ d^a METHOD 1. For the balsamic glaze, place the sugar and vinegar in a wide pan. Bring to the boil and reduce to the consistency of a thin syrup — if too thick, continue to reduce or add some water. 2. When happy with the consistency, pour into a squeezy bottle and set aside — the balsamic glaze will keep for weeks. 3. For the slow-roasted tomatoes, cut the tomatoes in half. Season with sea salt and cracked black pepper, and lay 2 sprigs of i]nbZ dc ide d[ i]Z idbVidZh# EaVXZ ^cid Vc

5. Just before the chips are boiling, remove from the heat and drain in a colander — make sure they do not break up. Leave the chips to cool then lay on a tray and transfer to the fridge to dry out for an hour. 6. After an hour, set the deep fat fryer to 140°C and blanch the chips until cooked i]gdj\] Å Veegdm^bViZan &'"&* b^cjiZh! there should be no colour to them. If you don’t have a deep-fat fryer, use a large eVc ]Va["[jaa d[ d^a VcY ]ZViZY id &-%°8# 7. Meanwhile, remove the tomatoes from the oven and keep warm. Turn the oven je id &-%°8$\Vh bVg` )# HZVhdc VcY lightly oil the mushrooms with vegetable oil and place in the oven for 12 minutes. 8. EaVXZ V [gn^c\ eVc dkZg V ]^\] ]ZVi until smoking. Season the rib-eyes with cracked pepper and sea salt, and rub with vegetable oil and a sprig of thyme. 9. Turn the heat down and cook the steaks to your liking, turning halfway through cooking. Once cooked, rest the steaks for as long as they were cooked. 10. While the steaks are resting, cook the X]^eh V\V^c ^c i]Z YZZe [Vi [gnZg Vi &.%°8 until crisp. Drain and season with salt. 11. To serve, squeeze some of the balsamic \aVoZ VXgdhh ' aVg\Z eaViZh# EaVXZ i]Z mushrooms and tomatoes on the glaze and top with the steaks. Arrange the chips alongside, and serve immediately.


The Watercress Company As specialist producers of baby leaf, watercress and Europe’s first fresh wasabi, we pride ourselves on innovation, traditional standards of quality and value and the importance of farming in harmony with our environment. All leaves can be provided loose or in high-quality resealable bags, perfect for maintaining freshness and shelf life. Our watercress is hand harvested and, along with all our produce, is grown by ourselves year-round to provide continuity and ensure quality.

To find out more visit www.thewatercresscompany.co.uk Or look-up our fresh wasabi www.thewasabicompany.co.uk. Call our office in Dorchester, Dorset on 01929 401 400

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JOIN COLIN AND KAREN FOR THEIR FARMERS MARKET ON FRIDAY, APRIL 19TH, AND TRY SOME SAMPLES FROM SOME LOVELY LOCAL FOOD AND DRINK PRODUCERS! FROM 8.30AM–NOON


> flavour The Castle Bow at Taunton

flavour’s Emily Knight and her partner called in for dinner at …

Castle Bow Bar & Grill T

here is no doubt that The Castle Hotel in Taunton is an impressive and imposing building. An 18thcentury reconstruction of the former 12th-century Taunton Castle, the grand building will be recognised by TV addicts as having featured in BBC documentary Keeping It In The Family back in 2009. Tastefully decorated in a style befitting the building, the revolving doors open to a lobby dominated by an imposing red-carpeted brick staircase, and furnished with tapestry wall hangings, antique furniture and atmospheric low-level lighting. We were lucky enough to be staying in one of the hotel’s Garden Rooms, with a surface area larger than my flat, a huge bed and the same period style as the rest of the hotel — which may feel a little dated to some, admittedly, but offers comfort and cleanliness in a style that befits the building. The hotel offers two dining options: the less formal BRAZZ Bistro and the Castle Bow Bar & Grill where we spent our evening. Having opened in mid-2012 to replace the hotel’s previous fine dining option, head chef Liam Finnegan is at the helm. With experience at The Bath Priory and Gidleigh Park, Liam’s impressive career

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history is certainly evident in his food. The beautiful art deco-style dining room was the perfect setting for a menu that reads like a who’s who of great local producers, and priced at just £34 for three courses, it’s well worth the money. Liam’s menu features options to suit all palates, from a light and fresh Brixham crab cannelloni with blood orange and fennel to a wonderfully earthy pigeon salad with bacon, hazelnuts and carrots. The Brixham scallops proved a highlight amongst the starters, succulent and sweet and paired well with Jerusalem artichokes in two forms: a delicate but flavourful purée and thin slivers fried into crisps. Being a bit of a glutton, it was the hearty option of roast Exmoor venison loin with red cabbage, beetroot, figs and Pommes Anna that tickled my fancy, and it didn’t disappoint. The gaminess of the meat and the rich jus were balanced nicely by the sweetness of the cabbage and figs, combining to create a dish that tasted just as good as it looked. It was my dessert, however, that was the stand out course for me — the Taste Of The Cinema intriguing me from the off, and rightfully so. A super-light milk chocolate mousse, popcorn ice cream, salted

caramel sauce and cubes of fizzy cola jelly transformed memories of childhood cinema trips into something special. The following morning, it was time to sample the wares of breakfast chef Gerry Barge: a breakfast buffet offering both hot and cold options, with dishes such as poached smoked haddock and grilled kippers also available to order. It was great to see that breads, jams, marmalade and muesli are all made at the hotel, and that the printed menus list out the wealth of local suppliers that contribute to the most important meal of the day. We were definitely impressed. The grandeur of the building, comfortable rooms, great service from check-in through to check-out and, of course, some amazing food made for a winning night away. Definitely our first choice venue on our next visit to Taunton.

Castle Bow Bar & Grill Castle Green, Taunton TA1 1NF Call 01823 328 328 Email thegrill@the-castle-hotel.com Visit www.castlebow.com


> flavour The Castle Bow at Taunton

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www.buxtonbutchers.co.uk

Proud to supply Bristol’s Michelin-starred chefs and you! Bespoke orders to your requirements All our beef locally sourced and aged for 30 days We apologise for only having 100% beef in our home-made beef burgers! Opening times: Wednesday–Saturday, 7am–3pm Call us today on 01454 773213 62 Bradley Avenue, Winterbourne BS32 1HS email: nigel@buxtonbutchers.co.uk

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> flavour fork to fork

fork to fork Steve Tucker is farmer and owner at White Row Farm, Beckington www.whiterowfarm.co.uk There are plenty of things that carry on as normal on the pig farm regardless of the weather and farrowing is one of them: the sows usually have about two litters a year of between 8 and 12 piglets roughly. On average at any one time we’ll have around 400 pigs on the farm including sows and weaners – quite a handful! We have begun planting for the summer season. I’ll be planting our main crop of potatoes – Wilja, Maris Peer, Maris Piper, Desiree, King Edwards and Marfona – many of these will be used by Garry in the Scallop Shell for chips and by James in the restaurant and deli. Also being planted right now are some brassicas, lettuces and salads. We’re keeping fingers and various things crossed for a decent spring. The weather needs to warm up a bit around now for seed germination and heavy rain can wash away delicate seedlings so it is a bit like looking after newborn babies in spring! We’re still picking purple sprouting, winter

caulis, leeks and, if we are lucky, spring cabbages. New this year and quite exciting is that we have planted some bread wheat so that we can use it to make our own bread for the restaurant and cafe. We should have planted it at the end of September but instead we planted it at the end of February due to the bad weather. Still hoping this will be a success, then our pork rolls will be made using bread made from farm wheat and pork from farm pigs, can you get any more local?!

The local butcher will also be willing to advise on the cuts of meat required, and will give advice on cooking.

The horse meat scandal proves once again that you are better off supporting your local farm shop and butcher, where you know where the meat comes from.

Steve Tucker is farmer and owner at White Row Farm, Beckington www.whiterowfarm.co.uk

Rolled shoulder of lamb This might seem like it takes a little while but really the time is only in leaving overnight in the marinade and the slow cooking – the assembly is simple. The slow cooking creates the most wonderful texture and beautiful tasting lamb – it is well worthwhile. Serves 8. INGREDIENTS 1.7kg shoulder of lamb 2 lemons, cut in half 1 tbsp of ground cumin Glug of olive oil 1 head of garlic, crushed Handful of fresh parsley Worcestershire sauce 2 carrots, peeled and diced into 1cm squares and boiled for a few minutes 1 swede, peeled and diced into 1cm squares and boiled for a few minutes 2 sprigs of rosemary Salt and pepper

METHOD First take your lamb and punch holes in it with a knife all over to the bone. Rub the lemon all over it, squeeze the lemon and put the pieces in with the lamb, sprinkle over the olive oil, cumin and garlic and vigorously rub into all the holes until the whole shoulder is covered. Then set aside in the fridge, covered, overnight. The next day, heat your oven to 140°C. Take out the lamb and pour a pint of water into a baking tray and place the lamb in, making sure you scrape all the marinating juices into the tray. Cover and cook slowly on a low heat for about 5 hours. When this is cooked and the meat is falling off the bone, take it out and put it on a cooling rack to cool for a couple of hours. When at room temperature, start to peel all the meat off the

bone and place it into a mixing bowl, season with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, a dash of Worcestershire sauce, and your diced veg. Next get some cling film and lay it out onto a clean surface, take handfuls of the lamb and put it into the middle of the cling film and squeeze it into a fat sausage shape. Roll it up tightly in the cling film and chill in the fridge until it is hard. To serve take a slice of lamb and place it onto a tray. Bake for 10 minutes in a hot oven. Serve with some mashed potato. If you like you can use all the juices and bones to make a gravy. ©James Griffith, Head Chef, White Row Farm www.whiterowfarm.co.uk 27


> flavour chef profile

chef profile flavour catches up with Scott Lucas, head chef at The Labyrinth Restaurant, Winford Manor Hotel

Name: Scott Lucas Age: 44 Where from: Bristol Where is home: Near Bath Head chef at: The Labyrinth Restaurant, Winford Manor Hotel

It was a love of eating that inspired me to become a chef. I was brought up on proper home-cooked food: my parents and grandparents grew fruit and vegetables, and now I do the same. I also keep chickens – there is nothing as nice as a freshly laid egg that is still warm! Unusually, for a chef, pastry is my favourite ingredient to work with. I started my career in the pastry section and then worked my way into the main kitchen. It’s amazing how something as simple as the combination of flour, butter, sugar and eggs can give you so many different results. In 2010 I became the first chef in Bristol to be named a Master Chef Of Great Britain, which definitely opened a few doors for me. I was able to cook at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, The Waterside Inn and Windsor Castle. I also get to judge at various UK competitions. Apart from that I still muck in with everything from the washing up to cleaning the stoves!

We want people to come here and feel relaxed and enjoy what they are eating. The continued repeat business we get shows it works! We have a separate section for ‘veggievores’ on the menu at Winford Manor. It was in place when I started, but is something that is important to me. So many restaurants offer a single vegetarian choice as a second thought, but it is a lost opportunity to them: vegetarian dishes can be just as good as meat or fish dishes, they just need thought and consideration, using the best ingredients available. Young chefs who are just starting out in the industry; don’t think you know everything. Even after 27 years of cooking I’m still learning! Taste everything and learn to season food properly. Cook for your customers and not the guide books. If you reach the Head Chef position, remember where you started and treat everyone with respect! A Head Chef is nothing without a good supportive team.

Maintaining my enthusiasm and love of the job is a team thing; working together like a family but with adrenalin! We work hard and play hard! The inspiration for my dishes comes from my travels, conversations, nature, seasons, memories and eating out. At The Labyrinth Restaurant, I want to carry on cooking the best freshest ingredients available without any pretentious silly stuff! We don’t do froths, foams, jellies etc. 28

The Labyrinth Restaurant Winford Manor Hotel, Old Hill, Winford, Bristol BS40 8DW Call 01275 472292 Visit www.winfordmanor.co.uk


> flavour chef profile

29


Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

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With sustainable fishing top of the agenda, flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice... Now meals on toast are a great British tradition; good old favourites like cheese or beans or sardines on toast are just timeless. One of the things that has changed over the years is the quality of the bread. The 1960s saw the introduction of mechanical bread processing and while this meant huge price drops and mass availability of a food staple it has also been at great cost to our digestive systems, never mind our taste buds! Fortunately artisan bakers like my friend Richard Bertinet have been of fundamental importance in the return to our lives of great bread and bread-making processes. In the south west we are spoilt with good bread bakers: think Hobbs House, think Thoughtful Bread and so many more. This recipe is a true delight with each part of the simple fare being essential to the whole. So I urge you to bake some homemade bread or buy from a really good local baker and you won’t go wrong.

© Mitch Tonks. RockFish Grill & Seafood Market Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill 30

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> flavour mitch tonks

Picture by Jason Lowe, taken from AGA Seafood Cookbook by Mitch Tonks, published by Absolute Press

Anchovy toast with fried duck egg

INGREDIENTS, SERVES 2

METHOD

4 anchovy fillets

1. Make the anchovy butter using a pestle and mortar to crush the anchovies, garlic and rosemary together. Make sure you have a pulp. The addition of salt will help break it down but go easy as you have anchovies!

Small clove of garlic Small sprig of rosemary Sea salt 50g unsalted butter, room temperature Worcestershire sauce 2 slices good quality bread 2 duck eggs Vegetable oil for frying.

2. Add this mixture to the softened butter and a dash or two of Worcestershire sauce – go careful on this, as you don’t want it to overwhelm. 3. Cut a nice big wedge of white or brown bread, whichever you prefer, and toast it well. Fry the duck eggs to your liking. Spread with the soft anchovy butter, so that it melts into the toast, then top it off with a soft-fried duck egg. 31


bar, restaurant, nightclub & hotel design and project management

Designers of River Cottage Canteen

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> flavour romy’s kitchen

Romy Gill is a chef, businesswoman, writer, wife, mother and runner! She focuses on the nutrition and healthy aspects of Indian cooking.

ALOO GOBWIITH POTATOES CAULIFLOWER

Passionate about good health, Romy has lost a great deal of weight and has devised her healthier versions of Indian recipes to complement her own branded range of pickles and sauces. Romy has given cookery demonstrations at food festivals all over the world, presenter on a local radio station Thornbury FM. She is proud to be heavily involved in youth culture and gives talks and cookery demonstrations in schools and cookery classes, where she discusses how food is grown, the importance of eating seasonal food and its impact on the environment.

Visit Romy’s site at:

www.romyskitchen.co.uk Follow Romy Follow Romy on Twitter @romyskitchen Find Romy on Facebook under Romy’s Kitchen

There are many ways of making aloo gobi, and you can add peas or carrots to make a mixed vegetarian dish. This recipe is great served with chapattis, rather than rice. INGREDIENTS 1 medium cauliflower, broken into florets 2 medium potatoes, chopped 2 medium onions, chopped 2 medium fresh tomatoes, chopped (or 2 tsp tomato purée) 1-2 green chillies, chopped 1 tsp grated ginger 3 tsp mustard oil 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp black mustard seeds 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp garam masala Salt to taste 2 tsp fresh coriander, chopped

METHOD 1. Blanch the cauliflower in boiling water for 10 minutes and set aside. 2. Heat the oil in a pan, add the cumin and mustard seeds and let it sizzle for few seconds. Add the grated ginger and stir for a minute before adding the chopped onions and cooking for 5-6 minutes. 3. Once the onions are light brown in colour, add the chopped green chillies and cook for another 2-3 minutes. 4. Stir in the tomatoes, salt, turmeric, ground coriander and garam masala, along with the potatoes and 2 tsp water. Cover the pan and cook on a low heat for 5-6 minutes. 5. Mix in the cauliflower, and cook on a low heat for 12-15 minutes, stirring frequently. 6. Stir in the fresh coriander, cover the pan and set aside until ready to serve.

33


> flavour bertinet cooking with the kids

Cooking with the kids While we teach kids classes at the cookery school and also in local schools from time to time, I have to remind myself daily to get the kids involved at home. The kitchen is a bit of a sanctuary for me – call it my version of the garden shed — and I treat my time there as thinking time. But the benefits of getting the kids involved are enormous and the time spent sharing the preparation of a meal sets them up to appreciate food for the rest of their lives. Next time your children or grandchildren ask to help, don’t shoo them away. There might be a bit more mess but it will pay dividends in the long run. So I thought I would look at a couple of recipes that are great for making with kids. The first, my smoked salmon, rocket and tomato pasta — is brilliantly easy; easy enough for the children to do on their own so no excuses about being tired after a long day. We tend to cook it on a Friday night, as it feels special enough to mark the start of the weekend.

The second recipe is one to do on a rainy day when you need to entertain the kids for a period of time. The recipe comes from Sarah Stanley, one of our chefs, who teaches cake and baking classes. The biscuits are pretty foolproof and very yummy but it is the icing that makes them so striking. Sara is brilliant at perfect and beautiful icing – I am considerably less dexterous but when we are making these with the children half of the fun is being creative and having a go. We make special Easter biscuits with bunny, egg or chick cutters, but for Christmas we use baubles, stars or other themed shapes and then add a hole before baking so we can hang them on the tree. They really are adaptable to all occasions. To make things easier I always use disposable icing bags with the children. With little ones, bake the biscuits together and then prepare a few different shades of icing for them to play around with. Older children should be able to make both the biscuits and the icing themselves.

Iced Biscuits INGREDIENTS 300g salted butter 150g light muscovado sugar 400g plain flour 140g cornflour Pinch of salt ROYAL ICING (FOR PIPING) 1 egg white 200-250g icing sugar (depending on size of egg white) LET-DOWN ROYAL ICING (FOR FLOODING) Some royal icing (see recipe above) Hot water from kettle Any colour of food colouring

METHOD 1. Preheat oven to 160ºC/gas mark 2. 2. Make sure the butter is room temperature. Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy (easiest in a mixer with beater attachment). 3. Add the remaining ingredients and mix until the mixture will form a ball. Take care not to over-mix, which could make it too sticky. 4. Roll out to 4-5mm thick. Cut shapes as desired with cutters. Place the biscuits on baking parchment (silicone paper) or baking mat-lined baking trays. 5. Bake until pale golden, 15-20 minutes. (Different shapes and sizes may vary, as well as individual ovens.) Cool on wire racks. ROYAL ICING 1. Whisk egg white with a fork for a few seconds. Add half the icing sugar (sieved if lumpy) and mix (ideally with an electric mixer with beater attachment) on slow speed until smooth.

The Bertinet Kitchen 12 St Andrew’s Terrace, Bath BA1 2QR Call 01225 445531 Email info@thebertinetkitchen.com Visit www.thebertinetkitchen.com 34

LET-DOWN ICING 1. Add a drop or two of food colouring to your icing and then carefully add a little hot water at a time until the icing will just self-level. Do not add too much water! Tap the bowl of icing on the worktop to help any air bubbles rise to the surface before filling your piping bag. 2. To decorate the shortbread, pipe an outline around each biscuit. Then, if using food colouring, divide the remaining icing between two bowls and add a few drops to each. Stir in a little more water to make a runnier ‘flooding’ consistency. Fill the centre of the biscuits with the runnier icing and leave to set. If you are feeling creative, keep some white icing back before you colour it to add details to the shapes once the coloured icing has set. Alternatively there are a number of companies online that sell icing stencils.

2. Add most of the remaining icing sugar and mix on slow speed until smooth. If it seems pourable in consistency, add more icing sugar at this stage but it will thicken more with next stage mixing.

3. Once the flood has set hard, place the stencil on top and, using a plastic scraper, wipe over a contrasting colour of icing. You can get some wonderfully pretty designs this way without being an artist. To stop a crust forming on the icing when you’re not using it, keep it covered with cling film, pressed down so that it’s in contact with the icing.

3. Continue to mix for 10 minutes on slow to medium speed until it is bright white and will stand in peaks.

Note: this recipe contains raw/ partially cooked eggs so is not ideal for pregnant ladies.


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> flavour bertinet cooking with the kids

Pasta with smoked salmon, cherry tomatoes and rocket

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

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> flavour what’s on?

FRE E

2 Feb–6 May 2013 mshed.org

Chocolate!

Secret Garden Food Festival Sat 20 April 2013 | 10.30am-­6.00pm | The Paintworks, Bath Rd, BS4 3EH Sample  the  very  best  of  spring  heatwave  cooking,  courtesy  of  Milestones  Trust.  Join  us  at  the  Secret  Garden  Food  Festival,  a  part  of  the  week-­long  Expressions  arts  festival. Cookery  and  food  stories  from  Chef,  Teacher  and  Founder  of  Square  Food  Foundation,  Barny  Haughton The  art  of  BBQ  with  celebrity  chef  Ben  Bartlett,  aka  BBQ  Ben,  author  of  The  BBQ  Manual,  published  by  Haynes

Free chocolate with every ticket!

Soil  Association’s  tips  on  organic  food ‘Little  Moo’,  serving  Vee  Double  Moo  homemade  ice  cream Children’s  activities Recipe  ideas  from  our  care  home  chefs Tasters  and  samples

M Shed Princes Wharf Wapping Rd Bristol BS1 4RN tel: 0117 352 6600

Riverford  Organic  Farms Bradley’s  Juices  Somerset  apple  juice Bath  Pig  free  range  chorizo See www.milestonestrust.org.uk/foodfestival for details or call 0117 970 9300

Opening Hours Tues to Fri: 10am–5pm Weekends: 10am–6pm Mondays: Closed (except school & bank holidays)

Exhibition Tickets £5/£4 concs. Families £10 Children £3 (5–16yrs) Under 5s free

Registered  charity  no.  294377

www.milestonestrust.org.uk/expressions

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> flavour what’s on?

24th-­26th May 2013

LECHLADE MUSIC FESTIVAL

Lechlade Music Festival is a family-­friendly three-­day festival featuring over 60 bands and an intriguing array of workshops and activities. The event takes place in the pretty market town of Lechlade and offers something to suit all musical tastes. A mini food village will complement the real ale bar hosted by the town’s CAMRA award-­winning Halfpenny Brewery. Bristol-­ based Pieminister are joined by The Mashed Tea Tent – offering organic teas and coffees, The Waffle Wagon, plus organic burgers, wood-­fired pizzas, exotic ice creams and more.

Early bird tickets are on sale now at

www.lechladefestival.co.uk

What’s On? ROUND UP OF THE NEXT FEW MONTHS

There’s a huge amount going on in the South West over the next few months, with food festival season almost upon us! Here’s a brief snapshot of just some of what’s in the diary over the next couple of months… April 26th-28th Exeter Festival of South West Food And Drink Exeter Castle and Northernhay Gardens May 10th-19th Christchurch Food and Wine Festival Dorset May 11th-12th Grillstock BBQ and Music Festival Bristol June 9th-16th Bridport Food Festival Dorset June 14th-16th Cheltenham Food & Drink Festival

37


> flavour chef Q&A

Menu Gordon Jones With his eclectic menu, served in his tiny restaurant, Gordon Jones is one of the most talked about chefs in Bath – and probably the chef with the longest waiting list. Angela Mount visited and put Gordon on the spot….

When did you decide you wanted to become a chef? I can’t remember! I fell into it with a job as a kitchen porter, and discovered that I was a whizz at chopping vegetables – it became my teenage party trick! I then worked in a hotel, went to the Birmingham College of Food, did work experience at Lettonie with Martin Blunos, and then went to work up in Edinburgh with Michelin-starred chef Martin Wishart. Brief history? I used to cook at home, and found that I had a talent for putting flavours together. After working in Edinburgh, I came back to Bath to work with Martin Blunos, and ended up as commis chef at the Royal Crescent, at the age of 20. Five years later I was Head Chef. Menu Gordon Jones opened in 2011 – I’d long wanted my own restaurant and wanted to keep it a small, family operation so this site was ideal. My vision was to cook food that I enjoyed eating – exciting combinations of flavours in a relaxed setting. You have a very unique style – can you describe it? My style is very experimental and I like to push the boundaries and discover new and often weird flavour combinations that work. There are no rules, but I’m not gimmicky – I only create dishes that I believe in and have thought through. I go for the whole ‘umani’ thing – combinations of sweet, salty, sour and spicy. Yes, I have weird ideas, but I know instinctively what works, such as the cocoa, chilli and cauliflower bread that we made yesterday. We also did a cabbage, cucumber and blackberry pre-dessert! I get a lot of my ideas from travel experiences and other restaurants, and also learn a great deal about what NOT to do! You don’t have a menu, how does that work? We started off with a short menu offering choice, but since we changed daily we kept running out of time to print the menus. One day, I just decided to create a ‘chef’s surprise’,

and put plates of food that I had created in front of the guests – it worked, and our fivecourse tasting lunch and six-course dinner menus have been running ever since – with a constant waiting list, as we only have 16 covers. It’s 3pm now, and I still haven’t decided what I’m going to cook tonight. It depends on what I find when I buy my veg, and what my suppliers bring in. My food isn’t planned; I believe in what I am doing and I just do it. It’s intuitive and it depends on how I feel. What’s the best bit of your job? Not having a boss, and not having a large team. My cooking is a way of expressing myself, and I like to sell my dream. Cooking to me is a form of escapism — I get caught up and lost in the intensity of what I’m putting together, and I love cooking instinctively. Are accolades important? The right ones are. I want to get my Michelin star here before I look for my next venture. We’re excited to be in the final four of the Good Food Guide’s shortlist for the best restaurant in the South West: voted for by the general public, which is what’s important. What tips do you have for aspiring chefs? You’ve got to have passion, work hard and learn your trade from the bottom up in order to understand everything. So what’s your vision or next project? I barely have vision for five days on from here! But in years to come I want to try new things, to show that I’m not a one-trick pony. My aim is to be the best that one man can be on his own. I want to do different stuff, wacky stuff. I want to do MGJ street food, taking a camper van to street corners and serving ‘fine dining to go’. I want to cook in new places, experiment with new styles, and I’m always looking for the next challenge. Guilty pleasure? Beer and a cigarette. A fact that not a lot of people know about you? I’m a Brummie and I’m left handed.

Menu Gordon Jones 2 Wellsway, Bath BA2 3AQ 01225 480 871 www.menugordonjones.co.uk 38


<RXU FKLOGUHQ PD\ HDW KHDOWKLO\ DW KRPHf but do you know what they’re eating while at school?

Healthy Education Here in the South West, a huge number of schools are doing their bit to ensure that children of all ages are being brought up to appreciate the importance of health: at mealtimes, as part of the curriculum and thanks to special events and school trips.

Flavour pays a visit to a range of these schools to understand just how dedicated they are to the health of their students. In our next issue, we’ll be revisiting some of these schools for fantastic healthy kids’ UHFLSHV SURÚOHV RI KHDG FDWHUHUV GHWDLOV RI VFKRRO WULSV RSHQ GD\V DQG PRUHfFRQWDFW us if you are interested in being featured!

Shaping lives 39


healthy schools

From The Savoy to Colston’s Formerly a chef at London’s Savoy Hotel, John Dier now regards school catering as the ultimate challenge.

School lunch provides the ultimate challenge “At Colston’s you are with your clients every day,” he says. “All pupils without exception have school lunch, and that’s a spread of ages from three to 18 with a variety of tastes and dietary needs.” John has been Head of Catering at Colston’s, one of Bristol’s outstanding independent day schools, for two years. His 14-year career in school catering follows experience in hotels and restaurants in London, Munich, Lucerne, Lausanne, Paris and New Zealand. A well-known figure in Bristol catering circles, he had previously spent 17 years at the Marriott Castle Hotel where he became Banqueting Head Chef. “Without doubt the biggest challenge of my career is keeping 800 hungry boys and girls happy. It’s about talking to pupils, finding out their likes and dislikes and producing enjoyable, satisfying and nutritious meals

40

every day. Because young people are better travelled now, their tastes are far wider. Consequently we continuously strive to increase variety.” Headmaster Peter Fraser said: “We are committed to ensuring that the school lunch remains a central part of the day for all pupils at Colston’s and we are delighted with John’s innovative and pupil-centred approach. “Pupils regularly experience new dishes, and I know that together John and contract caterers Palmer & Howells have further exciting strides that are planned for the next academic year.” Colston’s School Bell Hill, Stapleton, Bristol BS16 1BJ Call 0117 965 5207 Visit www.colstons.bristol.sch.uk


Clifton College Warren Ingham-Barrow joined Clifton College 18 months ago as Catering Manager, determined to bring restaurantstandard food to school dining. Working with more than 80 staff, he produces high quality, fresh and healthy food which is praised by nutritionists and pupils alike. Flavour spoke to Warren about the challenges that he faces.‌

healthy schools One of England’s most famous independent schools, Clifton College offers day and boarding education for girls and boys aged from three to 18. The school prides itself on its academic H[FHOOHQFH PDJQLÚFHQW EXLOGLQJV VXSHUE sporting and cultural facilities, pioneering spirit and high level of pastoral care in a caring and friendly atmosphere.

How important is healthy eating to the school? At Clifton we are all mindful that we are shaping lives and it is our responsibility in Catering to promote a healthy lifestyle to pupils, as the lessons they learn here will guide them throughout their lives. We encourage pupils to make balanced decisions based on their own dietary needs and offer a wide choice for those with allergen sensitivity, as well as halal and kosher options. For our youngest pupils a system of coloured plates identify food for dietary intolerances; other pupils have individual meal plans; while others just need gentle, good-natured guidance. We serve around 1,850 meals within 90 minutes at lunchtimes so the design and layout of our dining halls is an important ingredient in creating a happy and sociable environment. We do not forget those on the go either, with options to satisfy a host of needs — after all, the diet of a sevenyear-old netball player will be very different from that of an 18-year-old rugby player. What challenges do you face when devising your menus? Clifton is a diverse and tolerant school and we embrace this mix of cultures and reflect it in our menus. Not only do we offer dishes from around the world, but we also ensure that food is prepared and served in the correct way, encompassing all dietary requirements. Whether celebrating a cultural festival or just serving breakfast on a cold February morning, our focus is always on producing locally sourced, healthy and sustainable food. We are proud to say that our meat comes from two local butchers in Bristol and fruit, vegetables and dairy produce are all sourced within 50 miles of Clifton.

Does student feedback play a part in deciding which dishes to serve? Pupils have a key role to play in our catering committees which meet a couple of times every term to offer feedback on the food. I chair the meetings and find it invaluable to have such a direct relationship with pupils, who have often helped to develop new menu items. Do pupils get the chance to cook? Yes! One boys’ house hosted its own version of MasterChef and a girls’ house has recently done the same, for which I was lucky enough to be asked onto the judging panel. The Upper School also get involved with local food shops, and we are currently finalising plans to run cookery theatre sessions for pupils so watch this space; the next Nigella Lawson might just come from Clifton! Clifton College 32 College Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 3JH Call 0117 315 7000 Email info@clifton-college.avon.sch.uk Visit www.cliftoncollegeuk.com

41


healthy schools

Queen’s College, Taunton

Queen’s College is the top academic school in Taunton and one of the top academic schools in the South West. There are around 750 pupils at the school aged three—18 years, 200 of whom board, and the school is well known for its friendly atmosphere, small class sizes and excellent pastoral care. From an academic perspective, nearly 80 per cent of all A Level papers were graded A*, A and B grades this year and five students gained Oxbridge places.

One student has recently produced their own recipe book for students which will be given to all our sixth form at the end of this year.

A recent development for Queen’s College is the new Design and Technology facilities, including a brand new catering department. Food and nutrition is very popular at both GCSE and A level, but the emphasis on healthy eating is not just restricted to the classroom.

Our students regularly enter - and win - the local Young Chef competition run by the Rotary Club. This involves cooking a healthy dinner menu for two. Those who don’t study Food Technology from Years 10-13 will still receive strong healthy eating messages in Biology, PE and PSHME lessons.

HEALTHY FOOD IN THE CURRICULUM All pupils study Food Technology from Year 7-9, and healthy eating forms the basis of their syllabus. Year 7 are taught that a healthy diet is based around the ‘Eat Well Plate’ which was introduced by the Food Standards Agency as a diagrammatic representation of what a whole day’s diet should look like. Pupils are taught how to produce a range of healthy dishes from crumbles to pasta and end their module with us by designing a healthy packed lunch. By Year 9, pupils are able to make whole meals such as curries and chilli. The emphasis is always on providing pupils with the skills they will require for later life and ensuring that when they leave home and go off to university they will be able to fend for themselves and remain healthy. Those studying Food Technology at GCSE or A level are taught about the concepts of a balanced diet in more detail as well as looking at the effects of malnutrition. We study dietary related disease in detail and discuss preventative methods and the value of health education.

42

GENERAL FOOD INFORMATION At Queen’s we believe it is essential to provide children with positive healthy eating experiences in order to promote their wellbeing, and we created our Food Policy with this in mind. Active, growing children and young people require plenty of wholesome food and regular meals. Queen’s believes that it can offer something to satisfy everyone. It supports ethical buying and uses locally grown, environmentally sustainable food wherever possible. Queen’s uses as much fresh food as possible, with menus linked to seasonal produce. The catering team and suppliers work hard to make as much use of organic, natural food products and Fairtrade produce as they can, and try to eliminate GM food and potentially harmful additives. Queen’s ensures that its suppliers, both local and national, are committed to providing the best possible quality and value with the highest standards of accredited health and safety. It expects


them to have procedures covering full traceability of source through the supply chain, with comprehensive food labelling, supplying information on both allergens and nutritional data. An active Senior School Council has representatives from every year in the school. They meet with the Domestic Manager and Deputy Head Pastoral as required to discuss menus, suggest new dishes and offer ideas on how the service might be improved.

healthy schools The Queen’s College Open Morning will take place Monday 6th May from 9.30am to 12 noon. Please contact Queen’s for more information.

Breakfast, lunch and supper are all served in the main dining room. Lunch is the main meal of the day and is cafeteria-style. The lunch break is 105 minutes in length to allow sufficient time in the middle of the day for pupils to eat, to unwind and also to participate in the large number of lunchtime activities and clubs. Senior school pupils have morning break and tea in their boarding houses or make use of the separate café facility. Supplies of yogurt, fresh fruit and bread, together with tea and coffee-making facilities are always available in every boarding house. Drinking water is widely available throughout the school, and all boarding houses have supplies of drinking water on every floor. Bottled water may be purchased from the school café and brought into school. Menus offer a wide choice between hot and cold food with plenty of fresh fruit, vegetables and salad. Weekly menus are distributed to the whole school community, and Queen’s ensures that pupils are offered a widely varied, healthy and tasty diet. Queen’s attempts to cater for all tastes and preferences, including those who are vegetarian or have special dietary requirements. Every endeavour is made to ensure all food that may contain nuts or traces of nuts is clearly labelled. Parents of children who have allergies to any food product or who have special dietary requirements are asked to detail this in the medical questionnaire which they complete when their child enters the school. Any parent who is worried about the quality of the food is always welcome to come and sample lunch.

Queen’s College Trull Road, Taunton, Somerset TA1 4QS Call 01823 272 559 Email contact@queenscollege.org.uk Visit www.queenscollege.org.uk

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healthy schools

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T: 01225 310 837 E: paragon@priorpark.co.uk www.thepriorfoundation.com 3-11 IAPS Day Established Co-educational Christian Junior School

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14/03/2013 09:53:47


The Paragon School

healthy schools Being healthy is a way of life!

At The Paragon, healthy eating is an integral part of children’s learning throughout their time at the school. It seeps into so many aspects of school life that the children absorb the messages without realising.

In 2006, The Paragon was one of the first schools in Bath to achieve Healthy School status, and has continued to build on that success; our philosophy is that being a healthy school should not be just a passing phase but a way of life. Making positive food choices and understanding balanced nutrition features in many aspects of the academic curriculum, including Science, PSHE and Design & Technology. However, the academic aspect is only part of the story: we pride ourselves on encouraging healthy lifestyles in many different ways. Learning experiences are not restricted to the classroom, but are also inspired by the great outdoors, making good use of our unique environment. We are lucky to have seven acres of woodland at our disposal (within a mile of Bath city centre!) and have spent the last few years creating distinct learning ‘pods’ around the site, providing opportunities for children to develop a wider understanding of their capabilities and skills. Each week, pupils head outdoors to extend their knowledge of their environment and expertise in the woods. We have children growing vegetables, picking berries to make jam and cooking on the campfire.

Our school chef provides the children with a varied, healthy menu at the hot counter and the salad bar. There’s always something new to try and he promotes a balanced lunch with lots of vegetables and fruit. Teachers sit with the pupils and encourage them to eat well, demonstrate good manners and engage in conversation. Paragon parents are actively involved in encouraging healthy eating. One PTA initiative was to produce a wonderful cookbook of favourite family recipes. It’s proved to be a real hit, tempting the children to extend their palates by trying different recipes. Our aim is for all the children at The Paragon to grow up with an instinct for keeping healthy: making positive choices about the food they eat, the activities they pursue, and respecting their own bodies and the environment around them.

The Paragon Junior School Lyncombe House, Bath BA2 4LT Call 01225 310 837 Email paragon@priorpark.co.uk Visit www.thepriorfoundation.com

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healthy schools

Sexey’s School We have a Boarding Information Morning on Saturday 18th May 10am-1pm, for more information call 01749 813393 Sexey’s is one of only 38 state boarding schools and academies in the country. A high achieving 11-18 academy with around 550 students, Sexey’s offers day and boarding education with a supportive and caring atmosphere where young people develop outstanding personal and academic skills. Sexey’s has taken an active part in Somerset’s Healthy Schools and Healthy Schools Plus Awards, educating the students about eating a balanced diet and the importance of a healthy lifestyle.

I have many plans for Sexey’s Academy in the near future: improving standards and variety while keeping the menu healthy. It is only through the hard work and dedication of the kitchen staff that we have achieved what we have in such a short period of time, and their positive attitude and commitment will allow us to progress even further.

This year, students have been designing and eating their own vegetable soup recipes, making bread and taking part in the 3 star chef challenge (part of the Active Kids Get Cooking scheme run by Sainsbury’s). In 2012, a team of Year 10 students got through to the final of the Wessex Masterchef competition, competing in a Ready Steady Cook type challenge. Our dining room menus are influenced by cuisine from around the world in an effort to give our international students a taste of home. Students are challenged to try new flavours alongside traditional meals and many have discovered new favourites. An interview with Catering Manager Matt Briatore Most of our pupils have been very receptive to healthy menus. Of course, some children would like to see ‘fast food’ daily, but they understand why that cannot happen. Opening the children’s eyes to the fact that healthy options do not have to be boring and tasteless is of paramount importance to me, as educating them now at a young age could change their lifestyle for the future. Its not just about healthy eating, it’s about a balanced diet that’s sustainable throughout the child’s life. We use the best quality produce that we can: all of the meat we use is as lean as possible - even down to sausages, which are a minimum 80% meat with very little fat. Understanding the eating habits of the modern child helps me to provide the best service possible. I have created a menu cycle that encompasses a varied and healthy way of eating, and balance meals with salads, healthy carbohydrates and low-fat protein.

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Sexey’s School Cole Road, Bruton, Somerset BA10 0DF Call 01749 813393 Visit www.sexeys.somerset.sch.uk


Badminton School

healthy schools

Our in-house catering team, which is led by Head Chef Steve, provide a wide variety of healthy, nutritious and enjoyable meals and snacks. They use fresh ingredients to prepare food, both hot and cold every day. The catering staff know the girls and their likes and dislikes, and encourage healthy eating patterns and responsible food choices. As one Year 11 put it “we like our food so we don’t want to throw it away!” Breakfast offers a wide range of options, including continental, traditional cooked (once a week) and always porridge, cereals and toast. The Junior School breakfast club shares breakfast with the older boarders and they learn to choose responsibly what they would like and enjoy a ‘family style’ meal. Girls select their own combination of food for lunch from the servery with many hot and cold options to ensure vegetarians, those with food intolerances and general preferences are all accommodated. The salad bar is popular even on cold days and the use of fruit platters allows for a wide selection of fruits to be served daily. In the evenings and at the weekend, the girls like to relax and lie in and enjoy morning brunch or sunny barbecues later in the day. Through the twice termly food committee, the girls are encouraged to become part of the menu planning team and suggest recipes they particularly enjoy at home. As a result of these meetings, we also have celebration meals and themed evenings to keep mealtimes interesting and to broaden the girls’ taste experiences.

The underlying philosophy is educating to allow informed choices, ensuring the girls appreciate the need for a balanced diet. This is done throughout the curriculum and pastoral life of the School. We recognise that girls need to be able to make their own informed decisions and equally appreciate that the occasional cake at tea or a traditional pudding at lunch is an integral part of their busy lifestyles. Badminton School Westbury-on-Trym, Bristol BS9 3BA Call 0117 905 5271 Visit www.badmintonschool.co.uk

At Badminton, we all see mealtimes as a fundamental part of our day and as social occasions to be enjoyed. 47


healthy schools

Bristol Grammar School BGS has a great catering team who work to ensure the pupils have a great eating experience while maintaining high catering standards. The biggest change to the school’s catering has been the introduction of compulsory core feeding where school

lunch is provided for all pupils aged 4 to 16, meaning that an average of 1,200 meals are being produced each day. Says, Michele Milton, Catering Manager, “I attend student school council meetings to gather feedback on the children’s likes/dislikes and what they would like to see on the menu in the future. I also have regular meetings with the Assistant Head to discuss this feedback. “All the chefs at BGS come from different backgrounds so they bring a wealth of knowledge and recipes with them. We get together regularly to discuss our ideas, enabling us to have menus that are on a three-week cycle. The best ideas come from the pupils: while they are queuing, we ask what would they like to see more of on the menu.” Bristol Grammar School University Road, Bristol BS8 1SR Call 0117 973 6006 Email website@bgs.bristol.sch.uk Visit www.bristolgrammarschool.co.uk

Friday 26 April 2013 9.45am–12.30pm

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Life changing


Dauntsey’s School

healthy schools

A healthy diet is high on the agenda at Dauntsey’s School in Wiltshire, where head caterer Lloyd Childs and his team work to create the perfect blend of QXWULWLRQ DQG ÛDYRXU The school’s dining hall serves over 1,700 meals every single day, from breakfast through to supper, with a wide choice of food available at every mealtime. The Catering Department have built up relationships with local farmers and other West Country suppliers to ensure that food served in the dining hall is sourced as locally and organically as possible. Dauntsey’s strive to achieve “tasty, fresh and appealing” meal options, offering a choice of two hot courses at lunch and supper, with a vegetarian option always available. Homemade soups, jacket potatoes and a popular salad bar serving between 20 and 30 options make mealtimes at Dauntsey’s both enjoyable and nutritious. Special dietary requirements are catered for, and the School Catering Department liaises closely with pupils to ensure that their views are both heard and acted upon when it comes to designing the weekly menus. The menus at Dauntsey’s are proof that nutritional does not need to be boring, with pupils offered a varied and multicultural range of options each week. See Dauntsey’s dedication to pupils for yourself at their next open day, taking place from 10am on Saturday, May 11. An interview with Head Caterer Lloyd Childs How important is your relationship with local farmers? It is important to use as much local produce as possible, both because of the school’s standing within the local community and for ecological reasons. We also have quite a few parents that are within the farming community, so supporting our clients is equally important. Fruit and vegetables are sourced from local farms where possible. A lot of our meat is reared only a couple of miles down the road, then slaughtered and processed by a local butcher.

How easy is it to persuade students to choose healthy options? We are always keen to ensure that healthy options are available, but we do not force these onto pupils. At least five hot main courses are available each day, and we also have jacket potatoes and a freshly made soup of the day. We also run a very extensive salad bar option: the fact that the choice is there encourages students to choose different items throughout their time at the school. What input do the students have when creating school menus? We hold a food committee meeting each term where representatives from all the houses, both day and boarding, come together with the second master, the head chef and myself. We discuss the popular items, the less popular dishes, and anything else related to food supplied to the pupils is recorded and acted upon. Pupils are also able to email the catering manager at any time with requests or complaints. Dauntsey’s School, West Lavington, Devizes, Wiltshire SN10 4HE Call 01380 814500 Visit www.dauntseys.org

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healthy schools

Clayesmore School

CLAYESMORE DORSET

Clayesmore has a well-earned reputation for achieving excellence in all aspects of school life, whether academic, sporting or creative, and this quest to be the very best is just as apparent in the bustling kitchens and dining hall. These hives of activity produce fantastic spreads morning, noon and night - with some delicious snacks in-between! The boarders’ three main meals are served in a light and airy hall that overlooks Clayesmore’s immaculate playing fields with their picturesque rural backdrop. The food is both tasty and nutritious with a dizzying array of choice as noted by The Good Schools Guide who described the food as ‘wholesome nosh with copious salad and vegetarian options’. The most important judges, however, are the pupils themselves and when asked about Clayesmore school meals, they came back with hugely positive verdicts such as “It’s epic! There’s so much choice,” and “We love it, there’s so much variety!” Promoting independence from the rest of the school, the Sixth Form has its own social area named The Capital in the London Underground-themed basement of the stunning Main House. This funky hangout comes complete with its very own café serving teen-friendly snacks such as panini and milk shakes. As part of a shared cookery project and to contribute to the wider community, the Clayesmore catering department regularly opens its doors to The Forum School, a specialist school for pupils with autism. This mutually beneficial scheme helps pupils from both the visiting and host schools to learn from each other. Cooking together fosters autism awareness and offers autistic pupils a valuable chance to socialise with mainstream students and to learn vital food preparation skills.

50

The Clayesmore catering department is committed to developing its staff members through regular training to enhance skill levels and to make sure the kitchen and dining hall are safe and healthy places in which to work and eat. Sixth Form pupils will also be benefitting from some culinary training if they choose Clayesmore’s new BTEC in Hospitality, a course offering the opportunity to hone cookery skills and learn about all aspects of the hospitality industry. It is Andy Croft who manages the catering department, whose aim is to provide a healthy, varied and seasonal menu for both pupils and staff alike. Clayesmore prides itself on its food, and pupils and visitors to the school enjoy a great range of home cooked food, made with locally sourced ingredients. Says Andy, “All of our meat comes from the local village butcher, who sources the vast majority from within a 20-mile radius. Our cheese comes from the village dairy, and we work in partnership with a local organic vegetable farm. We do not use a single GM product, and this has been the case for the last 10 years.” The rolling menu is published to pupils, parents and staff, and features weekly ‘make your own’ options such as jacket potatoes, fajitas, pizza and a noodle bar. Each lunch features three hot choices, with an accompanying salad bar featuring 32 different daily options in rotation - enabling those with specific dietary


healthy schools An all-through family school for ages \HDUV &RPH DQG ĂšQG RXW PRUH DW our Open Day on May 11th at 10am

or allergy requirements to eat a varied diet along with their school friends. Andy and his team aim to provide a mix of homely favourites - pupils list cottage pie, pasta bake and curry days among their most popular meals - alongside an eclectic menu of world cuisine. It is this choice that he believes encourages pupils to choose a healthy diet for themselves: the whole school, right from the very youngest pupils, sees the variety of options available daily and is able to choose a little of something to taste or try as part of their meal, removing the fear of the unknown. Student input is also important to the catering team at Clayesmore, with a dining hall committee meeting with the catering manager once every term to discuss ideas from the student body. Past meetings have involved ‘blind tastings’ of sausages, while a representative from Quorn will be visiting the meeting next term.

“Pupils are far more health conscious nowadays when it comes to their diets,� says Andy, “and have far more interest in what they are eating. Likewise, their tastes are more eclectic, and we fully support this in all that we do.� Says headmaster Martin Cooke, “Clayesmore’s food is outstanding by anybody’s reckoning. There isn’t a single day when I don’t look forward to going down to lunch, and I am constantly amazed by the quality, range of food and the service provided by our catering team.�

Clayesmore School Iwerne Minster, Dorset DT11 8LL Call 01747 813111 Visit www.clayesmore.com

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healthy schools

Get kids cooking! Cooking is a great activity to enjoy with the kids, and the sooner you get them involved in the kitchen the better.

The recent horse meat saga has highlighted just how important it is to know and understand where our food comes from and what goes in it, and the younger this understanding develops, the more educated your children will be about food. To help you to have fun in the kitchen this summer, The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy has launched a series of classes for various age groups: some with parents, some without! 5-8 year olds will learn about ingredients and where they come from as well as making and decorating a selection of dishes, both healthy and old favourites. Classes are taking place on 28th May and 30th July, 11am-1pm and cost £45 for a child and guardian. 8-12 year olds will enjoy a challenge with an Italianthemed menu including homemade pizzas, pasta and gnocchi. The class takes place on 31st July from 11am-2pm and costs £55 for a child and guardian.

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13-16 year olds will enjoy some independence from their parents whilst learning some easy dishes to make at home and impress the whole family. Parents are welcome back at the end of the session to enjoy the food. Classes take place on 26th July and 1st August from 1pm-4pm and cost £55. Survival school! Finally, for those of you with kids heading off to university soon, the survival school could help put your minds at rest. There are three sessions including comfort food, being frugal and quick and easy. Classes take place on 6th/7th/8th August 1pm-4pm and cost £60 each, or you can buy all three for £150. The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy Latchford House, 8 Downfield Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2TH Call 0117 973 2823 Visit www.thedevilledegg.com/courses


healthy schools

Shane Jordan and Eco-Schools

Helping local schools become greener and more sustainable Shane Jordan is a freelance vegetarian chef and Education Practitioner from Bristol. Along with creating unique recipes from vegetables and fruit skins, Shane is busy collaborating with different schools. He has been working alongside children and staff members, and has participated in eco-friendly activities throughout the UK. These activities include renewing garden spaces, helping schools to compost, aiding the recycling of food waste and creating art from used household items. Shane has recently joined forces with Eco-Schools to help schools become greener and more sustainable. EcoSchools is an international award programme that guides schools on their sustainable journey, providing a helpful framework for them to follow. Schools work towards gaining one of three internationally recognised awards Bronze, Silver and the Green Flag award - which symbolises excellence in the field of environmental activity. He plans on becoming an Eco-Schools Assessor and helping schools to achieve excellence in environmental work. Shane has been a keen environmentalist for many years and has won numerous community awards for his campaigns and fundraising events. Now more so than ever, schools are become aware of environmental issues, and how educating it can be for pupils and teaching staff to embrace a sustainable lifestyle. This will all be documented in his highly anticipated memoir/ recipe book coming out later this year, which will chronicle his first memories of cooking, participating in community work, becoming a vegetarian, and his views and philosophy on food waste. Shane says, “I finally have the outlet to express myself and allow others to hear my stories and share my dreams. When this book is available it will definitely bring about a change in the way we see food.�

Bread Batons with Thai Sweet Chilli Sauce Ingredients r r r r

Shane always tries to create recipes that cater to the needs of everyone. In an inventive attempt to persuade children to eat their crusts, he has created a recipe for bread batons with Thai sweet chilli sauce, aiming to reduce food waste.

Crusts from 2 slices of bread 1 egg 7oz self-raising flour Mixed herbs: basil, thyme, marjoram, oregano, sage and parsley r Salt and pepper to taste r 450ml water r Thai sweet chilli sauce

Shane Jordan Email foodwaste@hotmail.co.uk

1. Add the self-raising flour to a bowl with the egg, herbs, salt, pepper and water. Mix until it resembles a batter. 2. Add the crusts from the bread to the mixture and fry in a pan until brown. 3. Garnish with Thai sweet chilli sauce.

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healthy schools

e

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MAYNARD SCHOOL

OPEN EVENING

20 JUNE, 6PM

admissions@maynard.co.uk 01392355998 maynard.co.uk

A world~class education in the heart of Bristol

Open Morning Monday 6th May 2013 To book your place at Open Morning, please contact Karen Balmforth at admissions@badmintonschool.co.uk or call us on 0117 905 5271 Badminton School, Westbury-on-Trym, Bristol. BS9 3BA

www.badmintonschool.co.uk

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healthy schools

Summer School Marlborough College

14th July—3rd August 2013

Since the inaugural event in 1974, Marlborough College Summer School has gone from strength to strength, continuing to develop and attract popular support from a wide audience. Catering for all ages from three years through to our most senior students who are 90 years young - it is this blend spanning the generations that creates our unique holiday atmosphere.

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Over 400 courses range from Beginners’ Watercolour, Writing Your Novel, Thai Cookery and Learn To Fly for adults and Let’s Cook, Stay Alive Survival, Young Clayshot and Filmmaking Challenge for children.

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Marlborough College Summer School Marlborough, Wiltshire SN8 1PA Call 01672 892388 Email admin@mcsummerschool.org.uk Visit www.mcsummerschool.org.uk

MILTON ABBEY Co-educational boarding and day school for ages 13-18

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Realising Potential Fostering Creativity

Valuing Individuals www.miltonabbey.co.uk

01258 880484

Milton Abbey School, Blandford Forum, Dorset, DT11 0BZ

55


healthy schools www.sisuk-sabis.net

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Spring Open Day Saturday 18"' May 2013 llam - 2pm SABI$ International School UK is an independent co-ed. day and boarding school located near Marshfield for students aged 11-16 years old (post-16coursesavailable from 2014),

North America - Europe . North Africa _ Middle East and Asia Please regis ter your Quendance via our contact details below

56


© philscoble.co.uk

Fir Mount House · Higher Contour Road · Kingswear · DEVON · TQ6 0DE · 01803 752943 · mannafromdevon.com · info@mannafromdevon.com

THE ART OF BAKING BREAD IN A WOOD-FIRED OVEN Woodfired Ovens · Bread Making · Fish Cooking · Mediterranean Food · Asian Cooking · Family Classes facebook.com/mannafromdevon

Can anything be more rewarding than making your own bread? At Manna from Devon Cooking School they make bread as it should be made, using first-class ingredients, lots of time and heaps of respect. Join passionate, professional baker David Jones on his new Bread and Baking in a Wood-Fired Oven course and allow his enthusiasm to rub-off whilst gaining the confidence to regularly make your daily bread. Commenting on this new course, David says: “Once you have a basic understanding of bread making there are endless possibilities. It’s so satisfying to be able to make your own ciabatta or focaccia for lunch, or serve freshly baked English muffins for tea and then later in the day impress your friends with a home-baked sourdough loaf. The bread-making process is quite addictive and cooking it in a wood fired oven adds a great element of fun, as well as depth of flavour.” David and his wife Holly are also hosting woodfired oven taster days on the cooking school’s fabulous Bushman wood-fired ovens.

@mannafromdevon

BREAD AND BAKING IN A WOOD-FIRED OVEN COURSES 12th May, 9th June and 7th July. £135 per person. Alternatively, if you would like to know how to cook everything from scallops to tandoori chicken then book into their WOOD-FIRED OVEN COOKERY COURSES; 11th May, 8th June, 6th, 27th and 28th July. £135 per person. If you’re thinking about investing in a wood-fired oven, or would simply like to try one out before booking a full course, go along to the cooking school on 7th June or 26th July (free, 11am for 2 hours) to trial this style of cooking. Please call ahead. With a limited number of places due to the small and intimate class sizes, book early to avoid disappointment. For a fantastic selection of inspiring bread recipes, buy a copy of Holly and David Jones’ Wood-Fired Oven Cookbook, available on Amazon and in independent bookstores (Aquamarine, RRP £9.99). Further information on all can be found online at www.mannafromdevon.com © philscoble.co.uk

Fir Mount House · Higher Contour Road · Kingswear · DEVON · TQ6 0DE · 01803 752943 · mannafromdevon.com · info@mannafromdevon.com

facebook.com/mannafromdevon

@mannafromdevon

Woodfired Ovens · Bread Making · Fish Cooking · Mediterranean Food · Asian Cooking · Family Classes

All photos ©Carole Hart Fletcher, Devon Creative Media

MANNA from DEVON COOKING SCHOOL


> flavour trimbach wines

An Evening with Jean Trimbach Alsace meets Allium

BY ANGELA MOUNT

T

Angela Mount is a wine expert, writer and presenter. Probably best known for having her taste buds insured for £10m by her former employers Somerfield, she is passionate about helping wine drinkers discover new and exciting wines. She also writes and presents events about wine and food matching, judges at all the major UK wine competitions and chairs the judging panels for the Bristol and also the Bath Good Food Awards. 58

he invitation to taste some of Alsace’s most prestigious wines whilst enjoying dishes created by one of Bath’s most talked-about chefs was one I seized on. Like children waiting for Christmas, the anticipation of matching some of the most lauded wines in the world with a feast of chef Chris Staines’ sublime cooking led to much tweeting, texting and pondering the delights to be explored.

Alsace wines are deeply loved by wine writers and wine enthusiasts, and misunderstood by just about everybody else. The much-maligned, glorious and intriguing Riesling is starting to rebuild its high-quality reputation, thanks largely to the focus that Australia and other New World countries are now affording it, but many wine drinkers haven’t yet quite made the association with Alsace, where it has always reigned supreme.

Why the excitement? Firstly, because Alsace wines have to be on my desert island list; secondly, not just any Alsace wines, but those from the thoroughbred and top producer that is Trimbach; thirdly because the dinner was to be hosted by the wonderfully charismatic owner Jean Trimbach; and finally because Alsace wines are simply perfect with taste bud tingling, flavour-challenging food, especially anything with an Asian twist, which is what the Allium does so well.

Nestled beneath the Vosges mountain range between France and Germany, the Alsace region is nearly as far north as Champagne, yet its wines are much riper and bolder due to the sheltered location and longer sunshine hours. Alsace also boasts some of the best gastronomy in France, with more Michelin-starred restaurants per square kilometre than any other region. Firmly French but using largely German grape varieties, Alsace wines have developed an intrinsic link with food with their depth of flavour and richness.

Trimbach wines have an unparalleled reputation for supreme quality and style, and have the rare accolade of being listed in every three Michelin-star restaurants in France and the UK. Jean Trimbach belongs to the 12th generation of Trimbachs, whose history traces back to 1626. Whilst his brother Pierre is responsible for the vineyards and the winemaking (and has been voted one of the top 10 white wine producers in the world), Jean travels the world, spreading the Trimbach story and converting enthusiastic wine lovers to his wines.

Most Alsace wines possess the incredible aromatics of the Riesling and Gewurztraminer grapes, amongst others, but are fermented to dryness. I asked Jean Trimbach what was unique about his wines, above all others. “It’s the dryness, the purity of fruit, and the precision of the wines,” he told me. “They are drier than most, and we focus on bringing out the purest expression of fruit in each one. Their structure means that they will happily go on for years.”


> flavour trimbachwines

Bath wine lovers had obviously already cottoned on to the unique qualities of Trimbach wines, as the dinner was a sell out. We started with a crisp, yet steely aperitif wine: Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2010 – offering incredible value, this early-maturing wine was a taste bud awakening start to the evening, with its ripe, bold apple and baked pear flavours, bone dry minerality, and supple, elegant character. £11.95 GWW Chris Staines’ first course, an Allium classic, was an exquisitely presented, palate-challenging dish of miso cured salmon, with oyster fritter, pickled cucumber and a grapefruit and wasabi dressing. A meltingly tender piece of micuit salmon was spiked with the sharpness of the dressing and the cucumber, which created just the right sense of balance. Jean Trimbach cleverly paired two wines, which had character enough to cope with this barrage of flavours, yet would not overwhelm the oily delicacy of the salmon. Trimbach Riesling Reserve 2010 – an elegant and vibrant wine, with characteristic steely dryness; zippy, tangy, incredibly fresh, and bursting with lively citrus, peach fruit, and a hint of honey on the nose. £19.25 GWW Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 2006 – as Jean described it “A wonderful, bring-me-home-tonight” wine! A gloriously ripe, exotically scented wine, with wafting notes of lime marmalade, exquisite freshness and a lingering minerality. £39 GWW A main course of melt-in-the-mouth, gently pink Creedy Carver duck breast was served with an richly flavoured, sweetly spiced sauce and glaze, made from a savoury orange curd with Chinese 5 spice, star anise and chilli. Guests marvelled at the depth and vibrancy of the dish and wondered which wines would cope; this needed sufficient richness in the wine to offset the powerful flavours. Jean had the answers:

Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve Personelle 2007 – an opulent, intense wine, which is just starting to come into its own; layer upon layer of ripe, creamy mango and exotic fruit flavours with a scented richness and high complexity underpinned by the signature whack of freshness and acidity. £28.50 GWW Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2005 – sumptuous is the best word to describe this wine; the nose hinted at sweetness with its voluptuous aromas of Turkish delight, rose petals and lychees, but the palate, with its glorious, sensuous, textured character, brought to the fore a delightful balancing freshness and vibrant minerality. Made in exceptional years only, this has staying power! £30 GWW Where could we go from there? Out came one of Allium’s best-loved desserts; a lychee panna cotta with pineapple, mango, passion fruit and lemongrass, topped off with a ginger granita. A veritable explosion of flavours and textures in the mouth, the mouthwatering freshness of the tangy fruit and granita, tempered by the creamy coolness of the panna cotta – I could swear there was some coconut in there too! Only one wine could match this: Trimbach Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive 2000 – from late harvested grapes, this luscious, sweet and unique dessert wine was redolent of honey soaked raisins, candied lemon peel and angelica with a delicate purity of fruit, a rich, opulent texture, and yet a breathtakingly fresh, lively edge of zest on the finish. £41 GWW A fitting end to a sublime evening, and a unforgettable lesson in how Trimbach wines can be matched with just about every combination of flavours. All wines are available from Great Western Wine Shop Wells Road, Bath Call 01225 322810 Visit www.greatwesternwine.co.uk 59


Cafe Britalia

Cafe Britalia is a cafe by day, offering a full range of food from an all-day breakfast, jacket potatoes, paninis and a selection of pastas. But on a Friday and Saturday evening from 4pm the ambience is changed and candles light the tables to create a different atmosphere, ready to serve pizza and pasta where you can ‘bring your own’ alcohol. All pizzas and pastas are prepared in house using good quality ingredients. Pizzas are stone-baked in the Italian pizza oven in a matter of minutes. Cafe Britalia 111 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol BS4 4HE Call 07554 941604

Checketts Family Butchers

Checketts Traditional Family Butchers, based in Moreton in Marsh, offers top quality meat and fresh local vegetables – the produce locally sourced and perfect to grace any Cotswolds’ table. Hog roasts are also available but book well in advance as it’s a really popular service! Checketts Family Butchers 24 The High Street, Moreton in Marsh, Gloucestershire GL56 0AF Call 01608 629405

FREE DELIVERY WITHIN 5 MILES

Visit www.thebestof.co.uk and search butchers in north Cotswolds


An Italian experience There is something rather special about Italian food. Whether that’s because we associate it with ingredients such as tomatoes, basil and olives, or whether it’s because we love the tastes and textures of fresh pasta or a moist dough, the simple case is I don’t think we would be completely happy without it. Going out or staying in, Italian cuisine more often than not fits the bill...

If you follow a gluten free diet eating out can be a minefield. As well as the obvious items such as bread, pasta and cakes, gluten can also be found in seemingly innocent elements of a dish, including soups and sauces. Flavour’s special gluten free feature aims to take the stress out of food for those living in the South West, whether you’re eating in or dining out. Read on for top tips, recipes and a round up of some of the best local eateries catering to those following a gluten free diet.


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The Gluten-Free Diet The gluten-free diet is the treatment for coeliac disease. Taking gluten out of your diet allows your gut to heal and your symptoms to improve‌ WHAT IS GLUTEN? Gluten is a protein found in the cereals wheat, rye and barley. Some people react to a similar protein found in oats. WHERE IS GLUTEN FOUND? The most obvious sources of gluten in the diet are bread, pasta, breakfast cereals, flour, pizza bases, cakes and biscuits. Gluten can also be found in foods such as soups, sauces, ready meals and processed foods such as sausages. WHAT CAN I EAT? The gluten-free diet is made up of: t /BUVSBMMZ HMVUFO GSFF GPPET TVDI BT NFBU mTI GSVJU BOE vegetables, rice, potatoes and lentils. Coeliac UK can provide a gluten-free checklist of foods and a guide to common grains to help you with your diet. t 1SPDFTTFE GPPET UIBU EPO U DPOUBJO HMVUFO TVDI BT SFBEZ meals and soups. The Coeliac UK Food and Drink Directory lists thousands of these. t (MVUFO GSFF TVCTUJUVUF GPPET TVDI BT TQFDJBMMZ NBEF gluten-free bread, flour, pasta, crackers and biscuits. These are available on prescription and in the shops.

GLUTEN IN ITEMS WHICH ARE NOT FOODS Cosmetics: It is unlikely that you would swallow enough lip balm or lipstick to cause a problem. If you are concerned then you should contact the manufacturers directly about TQFDJmD QSPEVDUT It is possible to be sensitive to ingredients used in cosmetics, but this has nothing to do with coeliac disease TQFDJmDBMMZ *G ZPV FYQFSJFODF TLJO JSSJUBUJPO XIFO VTJOH BOZ DPTNFUJDT WJTJU ZPVS (1 MAKING MISTAKES The reaction to eating gluten varies between individuals. In some it may trigger immediate symptoms that last several days, while others do not get any symptoms. Eating gluten will damage your gut and the effects will depend on how much gluten you have eaten and how sensitive you are. However, if you make the occasional mistake and eat gluten by accident, it is unlikely to cause lasting gut damage. If you think that you may have symptoms it is essential to LFFQ FBUJOH HMVUFO CFGPSF WJTJUJOH ZPVS (1 BT PUIFSXJTF the test could produce a false negative. GUT FEELING WEEK 13 -19 MAY Coeliac UK Facebook www.facebook.com/CoeliacUK Twitter twitter.com/coeliac_uk Visit www.coeliac.org.uk 62

www.coelaic.org.uk/gutfeeling


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Brasserie Blanc Going the extra mile for gluten free diners

Brasserie Blanc have always tried to accommodate guests with specific dietary requirements, Raymond Blanc and his staff hating anyone to miss out on a good meal just because they are lactose intolerant, or allergic to wheat. But about five years ago, they took it to another level. Jayne Castle, General Manager of Bristol Brasserie Blanc, approached executive Head Chef Clive Fretwell about having an official gluten free menu. Raymond’s right hand man at Le Manoir for over a decade, Clive agreed that restaurants were seeing a huge change in the way people ate out. Requests for gluten free alternatives, lactose or nut free meals and other special dietary requirements had risen to such an extent that it really seemed counterproductive not to go the extra mile.

Since then, four times a year when Brasserie Blanc change their seasonal à la carte menu, the gluten free menu changes too. Not just an afterthought, the menu reflects the main menu and highlights local and seasonal produce, true to Raymond’s ethos. It is not merely a token menu either. In addition to offering complimentary gluten free bread with your meal, the gluten free menu has around 20 main courses to choose from, a real delight for coeliacs who are used to drawing the short straw when eating out.

For people who really struggle when eating out, Brasserie Blanc’s commitment to providing as many alternatives as possible for those with dietary restrictions often means the difference between a nice night out with friends or family, and a great meal out with said loved ones. This may seem like a small distinction, but when you are used to ordering a selection of salads and side orders just to make up a full meal, it becomes huge.

The monthly changing Raymond Blanc Set Menu always has gluten free alternatives as well. Simply mention that you are gluten intolerant when booking, and the Brasserie staff will ensure that coeliac-safe options are available when you visit.

Brasserie Blanc Cheltenham Next to the Queen’s Hotel, The Promenade, Cheltenham GL50 1NN

Brasserie Blanc Bath Ground Floor, Francis Hotel, 6-11 Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HH

Brasserie Blanc Bristol The Friary Building, Quakers Friars, Cabot Circus, Bristol BS1 3DF

Call 01242 266 800 Email cheltenham@brasserieblanc.com

Call 01225 303 860 Email bath@brasserieblanc.com

Call 0117 9102 410 Email bristol@brasserieblanc.com 63


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Why gluten free? Love in a Cup explain the hidden dangers of gluten

Just 10 years ago, few people knew what the word gluten meant. Now we see much more press coverage about gluten, from Chelsea Clinton’s gluten free wedding cake to the many high profile stars, such as Gwyneth Paltrow, who have been linked with a gluten free lifestyle. So what exactly is gluten? Gluten (from the Latin word glue) is a protein found in grains such as wheat, oats, barley and rye. It acts like a glue to bind food together, gives elasticity to dough, it gives bread its spongy texture and is used to thicken sauces. Gluten can be found in all our favourite comfort foods, such as cookies, cakes, pasta, pizza and bread. It is also used as a stabiliser in ice cream, ketchup and salad dressing. For people with chronic digestive disorders such as coeliac disease, even the tiniest amount of gluten is very harmful. The body mounts a strong immune response which causes gastro-intestinal distress and nutritional deficiencies.

Research shows that an increasing number of people are suffering from lethargy, bloating, depression, abdominal pain, poor digestion, constipation and diarrhea. These are all signs of gluten sensitivity and often people struggle along without realising that it may be gluten that is the cause. As Serge Benhayon, founder of Universal Medicine in Australia, says: “Is it worth the body losing energy in digesting one thing, when it could easily digest something much easier, faster and have more energy in the process?” The Love in a Cup Teahouse near Frome, Somerset offers a 100% gluten and dairy free menu. Open daily to the public, homemade meals and refreshments are presented with a nutritional focus to support visitors in exploring new ideas with food. Says manager Susan Green, “Anyone can enjoy delicious gluten free meals with a little pre-planning and attention to ingredients. You do not need to wait for a diagnosis to tell you to change your eating habits. Keeping food fresh and simple is a great start and paying attention to your overall nutrition is important.”

Love in a Cup part of The Lighthouse Centre Tytherington, Frome, Somerset BA11 5BW Call 01373 453585 Visit www.lighthouse-uk.com 64


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Cosy Club Low gluten and gluten free dining at Cosy Club is easy, and the choice varied. A mouthwatering brunch selection is served until 6pm and features, amongst other things, a traditional breakfast, ham hock hash, porridge and creamed scrambled eggs.

Choose from a selection of sharing plates with meat, fish and vegetarian options, followed by main courses sure to please… River Exe mussels, pan fried cod, Hereford grass-fed rump steak anyone? Top and tail your meal with starters and sides aplenty.

Tapas fans can enjoy a vast selection including mini fish fingers with tartare sauce, falafel with red onion and coriander dip and broad bean, pea, cream cheese and mint pâté.

Finish off with a salted caramel chocolate pot, Madagascan vanilla bean crème brûlée or a cheese board complete with apple and pear chutney and grapes. Who said low gluten or gluten free has to be boring?

Burger lovers are not left behind either. Served without the bun, the selection includes spicy peri-peri chicken, vegetable and bean plus salmon and crayfish… sure to satisfy those ‘only a burger will do’ moments!

Cosy Club Bath, Cardiff, Stamford, Taunton, Salisbury and Exeter Visit www.cosyclub.co.uk

Chocolate & Amaretto Panna Cotta from Yeo Valley In need of a chocolate fix? Then try this sensational dessert from Yeo Valley, a delicious variation on the classic Italian dish. Rich, dark chocolate combined with creamy yogurt and spiked with Amaretto make for an amazing combination – sumptuous and incredibly indulgent. Wonderful for entertaining as it can be made well in advance. INGREDIENTS (SERVES 6) 1 tbsp powdered gelatine or vegetarian equivalent 170g plain chocolate, chopped 225ml Yeo Valley whole milk 4 tbsp caster sugar 4 tbsp Amaretto 325g Yeo Valley natural yogurt TO DECORATE: Dark chocolate curls Fresh berries

METHOD 1. Brush 6 x 150ml pudding basins or ramekins with a little sunflower oil. 2. Place 4 tbsp of the milk in a bowl and sprinkle over the powdered gelatine. Leave to stand for 5 minutes. 3. Combine the remaining milk, sugar and chocolate and melt over a low heat, stirring frequently. Dissolve the gelatine over a low heat until liquid but do not allow it to boil. 4. Pour the gelatine mixture into the chocolate milk and whisk to combine. Leave the mixture to cool to room temperature, then whisk in the Amaretto and yogurt. 5. Pour the mixture into the pudding basins. Cover and let them set in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight. To unmould, slide a knife around the edges then invert onto a plate and shake once firmly. 6. Decorate the tops of the panna cotta with curls of dark chocolate and accompany with fresh berries.

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The Better Food Company follows its ‘gut feeling’ Bristol’s award-winning micro-chain The Better Food Company is already a well-established purveyor of great local and organic food. But did you know they specialise in food for those on special diets as well? “Why should you miss out on the food you love?” says retail manager Pete Godden. “Visit either of our stores and you’ll find a wealth of goodies and knowledge, as all our team know about catering for a gluten free diet. In fact, quite a few staff here enjoy a gluten free diet themselves, so they’ve personally road-tested the products!” Both stores operate a ‘red dot’ labelling system, clearly identifying products suitable for coeliacs. And the variety of goods available is breathtaking. From free range Scotch eggs and falafels, to cakes, breads, biscuits, cereals, even beer – you really won’t feel you’re stinting on choice and your tum will remain contented. And we all know that ‘gut feeling’ is the key to happiness … Tastings are taking place throughout May, to celebrate Gut Feeling Week.

The Better Food Company Store and Cafe The Proving House, Sevier Street, St Werburghs, Bristol BS2 9LB Call 0117 935 1725 Visit www.betterfood.co.uk 66

Food Hall and Deli 94 Whiteladies Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2QX Call 0117 946 6957


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Cod Down Chippy Cod Down Chippy offers an extensive menu including vegetarian and gluten free meals. Tuesday nights are their special gluten free nights, with all gluten free products cooked in rapeseed oil and handled with separate utensils. Gluten free options include fish and chips, burgers (without bun), pea fritters, chicken and even gluten free battered sausages.

The place to go in Bath for mouthwateringly good fish and chips made from quality ingredients at great prices.

All food is made fresh each day using only the best quality ingredients and cooked using 100% rapeseed oil. They even offer home delivery to the BA1 & BA2 areas on Monday to Saturday with no minimum order. Check their website for further information on their gluten free range and opening times. Cod Down Chippy 15 Upper Bloomfield Road, Odd Down, Bath BA2 2RY Call 01225 833050 Visit www.coddownchippy.com

Gluten free gets

Baked to Taste A small family business from Devon has been delighting its customers for nearly 10 years. From scrumptious West Country fillings in their pasties, tarts, pies and quiches to delightful moist cakes, all Baked to Taste products are handcrafted to their unique recipes in a dedicated gluten and wheat free bakery.

Their delicious range includes the awardwinning Devon steak and potato pasty and the popular homity pie. So why compromise? These gorgeous products can be enjoyed by all. For readers of flavour magazine, there will be a 10% discount from the Baked to Taste online store throughout the month of April. Just use coupon code flavour13 when placing your order online.

Baked To Taste Trade Enquiries sales@bakedtotaste.co.uk Visit www.bakedtotaste.co.uk

BAKED TO TASTE READER OFFER

SAVE 10% ON ONLINE ORDERS THROUGHOUT67APRIL


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Tilleys Bistro Opened in 1983 and still run today by Dave and Dawn Mott, this family-run bistro is an established landmark on the Bath dining scene. Proprietors Dave (Head Chef) and Dawn (Restaurant Manager) still work regularly in the bistro 30 years on.

mainly of ‘tapas / starter’ size dishes, Tilleys Bistro does also offer a limited number of main courses. At lunchtime Tilleys offers a 2 or 3 course set menu starting at £13.50. There is a licensed bar and an interesting wine list available.

The bistro has 2 dining rooms on the ground floor, a large cellar restaurant, and private dining room on the first floor.

Tilleys pride themselves on catering for customers with special dietary requirements and allergies, especially coeliacs and customers who are lactose intolerant.

The evening a la carte menu is primarily Mediterranean cuisine with some Asian and African influences. While the menu consists

The bistro is open for lunch from 12.00– 2.30, dinner from 6.00–10.30 and is open from 6.00–9.00 on Sunday evenings.

Tilleys Bistro 3 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX Call 01225 484200 Visit www.tilleysbistro.co.uk

Labyrinth Restaurant at Winford Manor Hotel The Labyrinth Restaurant, fast becoming a favourite dining destination for local residents, sits within the Winford Manor Hotel, serving the simplest traditional food cooked from local ingredients. As everything is cooked fresh to order at the hotel, the chefs can cater for any dietary requirement — and are especially passionate about gluten free cookery.

GM Tracey Beck says, “Here at Winford we believe in access for all, and that includes the food we offer. We try to have at least half of our menu suitable for coeliacs, with the rest of the menu adaptable to change. I grew up on a gluten free diet and fully understand the restrictions that this diet can place when eating out.”

Head chef Scott Lucas adds, “We never use wheat flour in our soups, sauces and stock and make our own fresh gluten free bread, scones, pastry and cakes to order. Cooking from fresh allows us to have a larder from which we can produce a fabulous meal for anyone with any kind of special diet.”

The Labyrinth Restaurant Winford Manor Hotel, Old Hill, Winford, Bristol BS40 8DW Call 01275 472 292 Visit www.winfordmanor.co.uk 68


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Bath Harvest

Gluten Free Yorkshire Puddings Getting gluten free Yorkshire puddings to be as light and crisp as ordinary Yorkshires can be a real challenge, but if you try this recipe you will get fantastic results that taste just as good as the real thing…

METHOD 1. Sieve flours and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the beaten eggs. Using an electric whisk, blend the ingredients together, gradually adding milk until you get a smooth batter. Transfer to a jug and rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 8)

2. Pre-heat your oven to 220º (fan 210º) or gas mark 7. Use a good quality non-stick or preferably silicone muffin tray. Place 1 teaspoon of Bath Harvest Cold Pressed Rapeseed Oil in each cup. Transfer the muffin tray to the oven for 5 minutes until very hot (if using silicone, place on a baking sheet first). Meanwhile…

2oz gluten free flour* 2oz corn flour 3 medium eggs pinch of salt ¼ pint of milk Bath Harvest Cold Pressed Rapeseed Oil

*check Coeliac UK Directory for brands

Harvest Style Jamaican Patties SERVES 4 PASTRY INGREDIENTS 31/3 cups of gram flour (chickpea flour) ½ tbsp curry powder ½ tbsp paprika ½ tbsp turmeric ¼ cup soya margarine VEGETABLE FILLING 2 tbsp vegetable oil ½ tbsp curry powder ½ tbsp paprika ½ tsp of turmeric 1 cup of mixed vegetables (frozen), or fresh vegetables chopped into little square pieces 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 tsp of Tabasco sauce (optional)

3. Give the batter a quick stir. Working quickly, remove the baking tray, closing the oven door behind you. Pour batter into each one until half full. Return to the oven for 15–20 minutes (avoid opening the oven door during cooking time). Remove when the puddings are well puffed up and golden. For crispier bottoms, turn each one over and return to the oven for a further 2–3 minutes. Suitable for home freezing.

This recipe from Shane Jordan is ideal for a gluten free lunch

METHOD Preheat oven to 180º/gas mark 4 1. Mix the chickpea flour, curry powder, paprika and turmeric into a large bowl. 2. Rub in the margarine with the flour mixture until it resembles breadcrumbs. 3. Gradually mix in a tablespoon of water at a time, until the mixture forms a stiff dough. Form it into a circle and roll out on a floured surface to form a thin sheet of pastry. Cut out 8-inch circles in the pastry using a cup or plate. 4. For the vegetable filling, heat the oil in a pan and add the spices, followed by the onion, mixed veg and Tabasco sauce. Fry until veg is soft. 5. Put a tablespoon of the vegetable filling in the centre of half of the pastry circles, then brush the edge around the filling with soya milk, before folding in half to make a halfmoon shape. 6. Secure the top and bottom of the pattie together by pressing your fingers all around the sides (use wet fingers). Bake on a lightly greased baking sheet for 30-40 minutes. 69


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The Naked Kitchen The Naked Kitchen is a leading supplier of hand-rolled falafel, vegetarian sausages, vegetarian burgers and houmous in Bristol and the South West. We use only the finest ingredients with no additives or preservatives. All our products are vegetarian and gluten free and many are also suitable for vegans. Our fresh gluten free falafel comes in seven original flavours. It is handmade locally in Bristol and sold in bags of 60 or 30, and tubs of 6.

Each falafel is an average weight of 20g (although this may vary as all our products are handmade). The House Lots of fresh herbs and spices, traditionally blended to produce the finest falafel in the South West. Basil Fawlty A falafel with fewer spices but lots of basil and sweet potato. Butter Me Up Stuffed with butternut squash and a hint of nutmeg. Eat The Beet Jam-packed with beetroot, feta and chillies. Billy Goat Falafel with local goat’s cheese, red peppers and chilli and a sprinkle of parsley.

Coeliac UK Food Fairs 2013 BOURNEMOUTH AND POOLE FOOD FAIR 27 APRIL 2013 For trader information please email: Bournemouth@coeliac.org.uk YORK FOOD FAIR 11 MAY 2013 For trader information please email: York@coeliac.org.uk

ALLERGY AND FREE FROM SHOW 7–9 JUNE 2013 AND 26–27 OCTOBER Delivering the best platform for companies operating in the gluten free market, attracting almost 19,000 consumers and more than 1,000 health care professionals and trade buyers last year. Call 01442 289927 or email bruce@f2fevents.co.uk for more details today and be sure to mention ‘Coeliac UK’ to qualify for 10 per cent off your stand. LINCOLNSHIRE FOOD FAIR 15 JUNE 2013 For trader information please email: Lincolnshire@coeliac.org.uk

GLUTEN FREE PRODUCER & TRADER OPPORTUNITIES 70

SOUTH WILTSHIRE FOOD FAIR 29 JUNE 2013 For trader information please email: southwilts@coeliac.org.uk GLOUCESTERSHIRE FOOD FAIR 13 JULY 2013 For trader information please email: glos@coeliac.org.uk

Prince Of Persia With apricots for a fruity Middle Eastern twang. Apple Bobbin With the sweetness of Somerset apples thrown in. We deliver to delis, cafes and restaurants in and around Bristol and the South West. If, however you are further afield, we can offer nationwide distribution through our supply partner Essential Trading Cooperative. Contact us for more details or a free sample. The Naked Kitchen Email info@nakedkitchen.co.uk Call 07929 483025

These are great opportunities for you to meet people on a gluten-free diet, get their opinions on your products first-hand and even to conduct your own market research. The food fairs are always extremely popular and are visited by many Group Organisers, Members and their families and friends. We also work closely with the Allergy and Free From Show and can offer discounted rates on stands to Coeliac UK Commercial Partners.

AYRSHIRE AND ARRAN FOOD FAIR 14 SEPTEMBER 2013 For trader information please email: Ayrshire@coeliac.org.uk BEDS AND MID-HERTS FOOD FAIR 14 SEPTEMBER 2013 For trader information please email: Bedsandmidherts@coeliac.org.uk WESSEX FOOD FAIR 5 OCTOBER 2013 For trader information please email: Wessex@coeliac.org.uk CUMBRIAN CHRISTMAS FOOD FAIR 16 NOVEMBER 2013 For trader information please email: westcumbria@coeliac.org.uk COELIAC UK VOLUNTEERS’ CONFERENCE SATURDAY 21 SEPTEMBER 2013 YORK BARBICAN, YORK For sponsorship opportunities please email: anne.maloney@coeliac.org.uk


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Kilted Chef Chef Dougie Bonar endeavours to offer great gluten free options to diners All of our soups, stocks and sauces are gluten free and therefore suitable for coeliacs. We thicken them naturally with pigs’ trotters or add a touch of cornflour rather than adding flour, which makes sauces heavy and thick. As people are now more health-conscious, less flour is used in modern cooking than in the past. Customers prefer sauces – and their meals more generally – to be lighter and easily more digestible than those they may have eaten in the past. We also provide gluten free bread rolls to accompany our caramelised orange vinegar and rosemary and garlic infused olive oil. Should we be given enough notice in advance, we can also provide gluten free pastry and pasta.

Kilted Chef Restaurant and Bar 7a Kingsmead Square, Bath BA1 2AB Call 01225 466 688 Email tasty@kiltedchef.co Visit www.kiltedchef.co

The Biddestone Arms Flavour talks to chef/owner James Hedges to find out more about the Biddestone Arms’ gluten free offering…

How did the decision to focus on gluten free dining come about? Our daughter is coeliac so we have a good understanding of the disease. We also began to notice a lot of customers were requesting gluten free meals and were delighted that we had such a large variety and such a good understanding of their requirements. We now offer a separate gluten free menu to make people eating a gluten free diet feel less excluded.

How do you ensure that there is no cross-contamination between GF dishes and those containing gluten? All our staff are trained and educated about gluten free diets. Cross-contamination is something that they are all aware of and because they cook for our daughter every day it is something that they do automatically.

Do you believe that there should be industry standards for labelling and preparation of gluten free menu items? Yes, eating out with our daughter is often very difficult and frustrating so I have first-hand experience of how important education and labelling of gluten free products is. It is a simple thing to implement in kitchens and restaurants and offering a gluten free menu will increase your customer base. The Biddestone Arms The Green, Biddestone, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 7DG Call 01249 714 377 Email info@biddestonearms.co.uk Visit www.biddestonearms.co.uk 71


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The Bath and West Wilts Coeliac UK Group The Bath and West Wilts Coeliac UK Group meets regularly in the area where anyone, including those from Bristol where no group currently exists, who suffers from the disease is welcome. We hold such events as barbecues, fish and chip suppers with a quiz, children’s days out, meals out and have twice-yearly meetings, usually with a presentation or cookery demonstration.

Wuthering Bites

In November we hold our annual Gluten Free Food Fair in Melksham where over 20 suppliers and producers exhibit their wares.

For more information email bath@coeliac.org.uk

Flavour asks Twitter…

…where’s best for gluten free dining in the south west? @UKShallots Farrows Fish And Chips, Wells Road, Bristol – Gluten free fish and chips freshly cooked to order. #yum @MissAndreeL Got to try Delight Cafe in Bristol! Best vegan and gluten-free brownies in Bristol and the rest of the menu’s pretty tasty! @restingchef Tart (Gloucester Road, Bristol) always have a great selction of GF cakes, brownies & sarnies available. GF scones on request.

@MyBurritoUK Lots of GF at our place now, Coconut and Lime Cake and Chipotle Meatball Tacos to name but a few…

Join in the conversation and you could appear in our next issue! Follow us on Twitter at @FlavourMagazine. 72

Sarah from gluten free blog Wuthering Bites gives her top tips for eating out for those following a gluten free diet… Dining out can be quite difficult if you suffer from coeliac disease or have a gluten intolerance, but there are a lot of food businesses and restaurants out there that are willing to try to cater to your needs. The majority of chain restaurants now feature their own gluten free menus or have clearly labelled dishes to avoid confusion before you order. This has also become frequent in independent eateries which food lovers have been glad to notice; but how do you know that it is 100 per cent safe? At the end of the day, you are responsible for what you eat when you are out and about and if you do see gluten free on a menu, it’s always best, for peace of mind, to question the waiter or manager on their knowledge of cross contamination. If possible, do so in advance of your visit so that you can completely enjoy yourself when out eating with your friends or family. If you do have the misfortune to feel unwell after your meal and you think this may be due to cross contamination, do let the manager and chef know immediately so that they can work on putting right the wrongs. Social media is a great way to find and encourage businesses to ensure they consider gluten free options in the future. You can also ask the coeliac and gluten free community their experiences dining out in particular restaurants; knowledge is key. Follow Wuthering Bites on Twitter @wbites Visit www.wutheringbites.co.uk


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“This is the best British-made chorizo that I have come across — I have been on the look-out for years! They certainly live up to the taste test against Spanish chorizo�

Gluten-Free Haven

Mark Hix Chef & Champion of British Food Producers

ORGANIC Â GLUTEN Â FREE Â SOUP Â ROLLS Â WORLD Â INSPIRED Â TOASTIES Â FAIRTRADE Â COFFEE Â HOT Â CHOCOLATE Â HERBAL Â TEA Â FRESH Â ORIGINAL Â SALADS Â FRAPPES Â FAIR Â Â GLUTEN Â FREE Â CAKES Â CREAM Â TEAS Â KIDS Â MENU Â TOASTED Â TEACAKES Â BREAKFAST Â

High-welfare British pork Wheat, dairy and gluten free

   Come  &  enjoy  our  exciting  world  inspired  menu! Â

8-­9  New  Bond  St  Place         Bath  City  Centre  BA1  1BH         Open  Mon-­Sun  Â

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Follow The Bath Pig on facebook for lots of seasonal recipes and to find out where we’re going next

www.thebathpig.com

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Lewtrenchard Manor Stay or dine in this beautiful, classic, family-run country house hotel and restaurant. Surround yourself in the history of this Jacobean manor whilst relaxing in front of the many fires. With prices for lunch in our 3 AA Rosette restaurant starting at £19.50 and for dinner at £49.50, we offer great value for top-quality locally-sourced food. For something a little different, try the ‘Purple Carrot’ 8-course private dining experience for £79 per person including a glass of Champagne and coffee with petit fours. Watch and interact with the chefs for a unique lunch or dinner — perfect for tables from two to 8. Our rooms, ranging from traditional to contemporary and modern, are furnished to the highest standards and prices start at £155 bed and breakfast per night, based on double occupancy.

Lewdown Okehampton Devon EX20 4PN Tel. 01566 783222 Email: info@lewtrenchard.co.uk

www.lewtrenchard.co.uk

FLAVOUR NEEDS YOU! As much as we love Flavour and what we stand for, we (like anyone!) are always keen to make things better. So… if there are things you’d like to see more of, changes you’d like us to make or new and exciting features you’d like to see in the magazine, please do let us know. We’ll be running a readers’ survey within the next couple of months to find out what you think, and will also be contacting local food and drink businesses for their ideas: we’re looking for as much input as possible to ensure that Flavour is exactly what you want it to be.

You’re welcome to contact us at any time via any of the following methods: Twitter: @flavourmagazine Facebook: facebook.com/FlavourFoodMag Email: Emily@flavourmagazine.com Looking forward to hearing from you!

Emily

www.flavourmagazine.com


Your lifestyle guide to all things eco...

Wyke Farms Turn to Bio Gas The cheese producer harnesses green energy

The Benefits of Park and Ride Take advantage of a better way of getting into Bristol

Visit Yeo Valley Enjoy a garden talk or farm tour this summer

www.greenlivingmagazine.co.uk


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greenliving

Planning Permission Granted For Wyke Farms’ Bio Gas Plant Wyke Farms, the UK’s largest independent cheese producer and milk processor, have been granted permission to build an anaerobic digester plant near their farms in Bruton, Somerset. The ambitious plans from Wyke Farms will allow the company to save over 4 million kilos of carbon dioxide per annum, and make them one of the first national food brands to be selfsufficient in green energy.

The traditional family business has 150 years of family farming experience: their cheese and butter is made with the milk from their cows who graze the lush pastures of the Mendip Hills in the centre of the Cheddar-making region in Somerset. Wyke Farms products are available nationwide and can be found in Asda, Coop, Makro, Sainsbury’s, Tesco and Waitrose.

The brand have been planning their green energy strategy since 2005, and applied for planning permission back in March. Building of the bio gas plant is set to start immediately, with the company planning to source all of their electricity from both solar and biogas generated from the farm and dairy waste. The business has already invested in solar arrays on farm buildings. “We are a business that believes in the principles of sustainability. For us it’s about local farming, local sourcing and local supply wherever possible,” says Rich Clothier, Managing Director and third generation family member at Wyke Farms. “When it comes to energy sourcing, it doesn’t get more local than collecting the light off of your rooftops and using the gas digested from the manure from your cows, add to that a commitment to re-use all of the factory waste water again and it starts to get really exciting.” With discussions with their energy advisors already taking place, Wyke Farms want to ensure that they will be maximising their opportunity for sustainable green growth and accurately measuring their results. Wyke Farms has been producing its award-winning cheddar in Somerset for over a century, and has grown to become one of the largest family-owned food brands in Britain valued at over £70m at retail, according to Kantar data. The company have achieved substantial growth year on year by staying true to the traditional values behind the brand.

www.wykefarms.com


greenliving

Vegucate FREE FILM SCREENINGS ON HEALTHY LIVING IN BRISTOL

Feed the Bees – help the Bumblebee Conservation Trust to bring back the buzz

Every Tuesday between April 9th and May 7th, 6:30pm, at The Polish Club, Clifton

FILMS INCLUDE

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Self-­build – many hands make light work!

Bumblebee numbers are declining and the recent soggy summers have not helped. The Bumblebee Conservation Trust are looking for support to continue their work for Britain’s bumblebees by adding much-needed wildflowers back into our landscape. The first public appeal from the Trust will run until September, with the aim of raising £8,000. Donate online at justgiving.com/feedthebees, or if you prefer you can simply text BUZZ77, followed by the amount you would like to donate, to 70070 (for example BUZZ77 £10).

www.bumblebeeconservation.org

Tickets now on sale for Croissant Neuf Summer Party Croissant Neuf Summer Party is the greenest festival in the UK after recently winning the title for the third time at the UK Festival Awards. With a bursting line-up of music, crafts, circus, workshop and therapies this fully solarpowered event is loved by families for the fun on offer. Located near Usk, Monmouthshire, the stunning site is set over an Iron Age hill fort and is easily accessible as an alternative activity-filled break during the summer holidays. Croissant Neuf Summer Party 8–11 August 2013 Near Usk, Monmouthshire

Would you like to design and/or build your own home? Building as part of a group offers a great opportunity to create more affordable and environmentally sustainable homes. Bristol-based workers’ co-operative Ecomotive is offering workshops to help those interested in self-build to explore examples, ask questions, progress projects and meet like-minded people. The workshops blend information, inspiration, discussion and reflection to set you on the path to making informed choices about your next steps.

For more info email info@ecomotive.org, visit www.ecomotive.org or call 0117 9241263

Tickets available from www.cnsp.co.uk


greenliving

Maggie Fox visits Yeo Valley to enjoy a talk from Sarah Raven…

Yeo Valley Farm and Garden Tours As a keen gardener and a grow-my-own-veg type of person, the events at Yeo Valley have always been of interest to me. I was lucky enough to attend one of the Sarah Raven talks, covering the best way to grow cut flowers in your garden for all the seasons, all year round. Sarah has trialled many cut flower varieties in her own garden, and talked in detail about her preferred varieties and why these work best. Talks of this kind are great for picking up tips such as ‘layer planting’: Sarah has trialled narcissi with dahlias and tulip beds with salad crops, among others. With a recommendation to pick, condition, rest and arrange to prolong your arrangement, the day ended with a flower arranging demonstration using flowers picked from Sarah’s garden…Sarah and her colleague made it look so easy! Yeo Valley hosted the two days of talks by Sarah Raven, part of a series of planned gardening talks taking place over the summer, at their HQ and provided everyone with a superb two-course lunch produced on their premises. All profits from the events are being used to support Horatio’s garden at Salisbury Hospital: a garden built to commemorate the life of Horatio Chapple, the schoolboy killed by a polar bear while on an expedition in Norway. Annie Maw also gave us further insight into the work of the SSIT, a really worthwhile charity that assists people with spinal cord injuries who live in the region. If you’re interested in visiting Yeo Valley for yourself, book yourself onto one of the company’s Food And Garden Tours, perfect for keen gardeners and green enthusiasts alike. The tour and talks cover a variety of subjects from how to make compost to making your own comfrey tea. You’ll also enjoy a homemade lunch and afternoon tea, along with a special cookery demo from Yeo Valley’s chef. Garden Tour dates: 14th May, 4th and 18th June, 9th (sold out) and 23rd July, 13th August, 10th and 24th September Alternatively, book now for a Farm Adventure Tour. Led by local expert Les Davies MBE, you’ll enjoy a short walk around the edge of the Mendips, have the chance to learn about the importance of organic farming, and will see some of the results of Yeo Valley’s environmental and conservation work, including drystone walls, hedges and woodland. Farm Tours dates: 10th (sold out) and 24th May, 7th and 21st June (sold out), 5th and 19th July, 30th August and 20th September

www.yeovalley.co.uk/our-­valley/tours-­in-­the-­valley


greenliving

Looking at a better way to get into town? Are you fed up of looking for parking spaces? Do you feel envious when sitting in traffic to see a bus whizz past in the bus lane? Why not give the Park & Ride services a go next time you travel to Bristol or Bath for business, leisure or shopping?

They are really easy to use: simply park your car and hop on a bus that will take you direct to the city centre. There are no parking charges — just the cost of a return bus ticket, which you can purchase on board. They are more frequent than local buses, and provide a cost-effective and stress-free alternative for commuters and shoppers alike. There are three Park & Ride services in Bristol (A4 Bath Road, Portway and Long Ashton); and Park & Ride sites in Bath at Lansdown, Newbridge and Odd Down. Gill, a marketing manager, has made the shift from driving daily into Bristol to using the Park & Ride at Portway. “I was a committed car driver, but was getting tired of queuing daily and then struggling to find a parking space near my office. The Park & Ride has provided a great solution for me, as I don’t have a decent bus service from my home at times that suit my journeys and there is always plenty of parking at the Park & Ride. I’m able to relax on the bus reading a book, so I arrive at work feeling much less stressed than I did when sitting behind the wheel! I’m also saving significantly on petrol costs each month so am saving money as well as doing my bit in reducing congestion and helping the planet.”

For help planning your route visit

www.travelwest.info


Bed&Breakfast

> flavour bed & breakfast

of the month

Primrose Cottage

Primrose Cottage is an awardwinning bed and breakfast. We have a Five Gold Star Award from the AA and a Five Star Gold Award from Enjoy England, and also awards for our breakfast and suppers. There are three luxury suites – the Stable, the Garden Room and Tamar View – all enjoying beautiful views across the Tamar Valley. Each suite has its own private entrance, sitting room and en suite facilities; furnished with designer fabrics, antiques and thoughtful extra touches, every luxury is provided. A bottle of chilled white wine will be waiting to welcome you on your arrival and fresh homemade cakes are left in the rooms for tea each day. Sip your wine admiring the stunning views from your sitting room or choose one of the secluded corners of the garden. Once settled, you can stroll down through the woods to the river to watch the salmon jump or a kingfisher dive. Primrose Cottage also offers special breaks of two or three days.

Set in four acres of gardens and woodland on the banks of the River Tamar, Primrose Cottage is located between Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor and within easy reach of the north and south coasts

Primrose Cottage Lawhitton, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 9PE Call 01566 773645 Visit www.primrosecottagesuites.co.uk

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> flavour nick harman

‘Tis the season… Nick Harman relishes the prospect of homegrown fruit and veg

By the time you read this article the ice age in the UK should be over and normal service have been resumed. If however you’re reading this by the light of a candle because the cold weather in fact never stopped and the UK promptly ran out of both gas and electricity, well I can only apologise for being cheery. This is a happy time for the serious eater; finally we can stop relying on foodstuffs shipped thousands of miles and picked before their prime, and begin to seriously eat food grown in the UK. Broad beans that have survived the winter and now, if you grow your own, can be eaten as babies, finger-sized pods and all, needing only to be dunked in some creamy young goat’s cheese to make them perfect.

Early spinach and chard has arrived, the thick chard stems of red, yellow and white glowing like fireworks in the veg plot and the green leaves are at their prime; thick, glossy and squeaking like happy pigs when you rub them together. It still seems to be the case that all too often people are ignorant of what’s in season and where it comes from and what really goes on in muddy fields and dark barns. Hence the nameless food writer who once informed me that he knew for a fact that aubergines grew like courgettes, trailing along the ground. The more we grow our own, the more we appreciate it, the more we respect it. We don’t waste it, because we know the effort that went into it — the endless digging

on cold days, the careful tending of the young plants, the Sundays spent weeding and cutting the grass (before heading to the pub for a well-earned drink). Once you’ve got over the heartache of a brassica crop destroyed overnight by pigeons, or lettuces razed to the ground by armies of fat slugs, you can celebrate with new potatoes eaten hours after being dug up, crunchy little radishes dipped in sea salt and pointy hearted cabbages, stalwart survivors of the snow. Yes, when we dine this summer, we should all eat local and eat from our gardens.

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk 82


The Anchor . 60 Ham Green . Pill . Bristol . BS20 0HB . 0808 178 2045

THE ANCHOR RESTAURANT AND COCKTAIL BAR

OPENING 1 MAY At the heart of every community you will find a community hub and Mezze Restaurants aims to fill that void by offering good quality, reasonably-priced family-oriented venues away from the city centres. Mezze offers venues within easy reach of where our customers live to reduce travel costs and increase the comfort and confidence factor for everyone. We have recently added two new sophisticated venues at Clutton and Congresbury with extensive children’s play areas to join our popular and well-established Downend and Thornbury Restaurants, which each also offer landscaped Mediterranean gardens with flame-lit lanterns after dark for al fresco dining. Mezze injects a new lease of life into old country pubs and in turn helps to revive their communities. This year is particularly exciting for the Mezze group with two exciting developments in the pipeline. Mezze at The Anchor Inn, Ham Green, launches in early May, and Mezze at The White Lion is set to open in Portishead in June. Each restaurant serves a wide and interesting selection of MezzÊs (tapas) for informal dining, along with a well-balanced A La Carte menu which has a scattering of old favourites. For pudding we have a range of delicious treats to tantalize your taste buds and even homemade ice-cream is available at some of our restaurants boasting their own ice cream parlour.

w w w. m e z z e r e s t a u r a n t s . c o m


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