Kangaroo Island calling

Story by Petra de Mooy. Photography by Jason Porter.

Page left: The beautiful geological features of Pennington Bay. This page top left: Beach Barista – If you get there before mid-April, you might find the Beach Barista awaiting your order. Photo courtesy Petra de Mooy. Bottom left: All roads lead to the beauty of KI – waiting to be discovered again and again. Above right: The Vivonne Bay Jetty stretching out over the pristine waters of the island’s South Coast.

There is something transformative about Kangaroo Island (KI). Since moving to the Fleurieu in 2004, we have travelled there over a dozen times both for work and for pleasure, drawn back by the relaxed pace and friendliness of the locals and the sheer beauty of the landscape. It’s an island of contrasts with the sheltered north coast giving way to the beautiful geological features and wild waters of the south.

It’s a place where you can still experience a sense of discovery as you criss-cross the island, heading down yet another dirt road you haven’t travelled before, perhaps spotting a goanna or an echidna. We have spent many pleasant hours meandering, discovering everything from unique flora and fauna, to sandy windswept beaches, lighthouses and ancient mallee arbours. And then there’s the unique local produce that spans the full gamut from gin, wine and beer to olive oil, lavender and eucalyptus. The many small businesses dotted around the island are fiercely proud of these products and of their home and community.

After bushfires tore through over 210,000 hectares on the western end of the island in late December and early January, we vowed to get over as soon as possible. And following a two-day whirlwind tour in early February, we’re happy to report that none of the above has changed. Which is not to say that nothing has changed. We can’t understate the devastating impact the fires have had on locals, farmers and wildlife. But with the livelihoods of many on the island relying on tourism, local government and local businesses are quickly focusing on getting back to normal, pledging to promote and repair what is indisputably a large jewel in South Australia’s – and the world’s – crown.

Indeed, for the first half of our trip we didn’t see any evidence of the fire at all. It’s easy to forget how big the island is and much of the north and south coasts were untouched by the fire. >

Above left: Take in the show at Raptor Domain. Photo courtesy Heidi Lewis. Top right: A big grey kangaroo sizes us up at Stokes Bay. Photo courtesy Petra de Mooy. Bottom right: Thank-you signs dotted around the island were a lovely gesture from locals to convey how grateful they are for all of the help received (especially from volunteer firefighters) during and after the bushfires.

One of our first stops after the ferry is always Pennington Bay, a favourite spot for surfers with a well-above-average swell and gorgeous views. The bay’s natural beauty is all the more enjoyable with coffee in hand following the welcome addition of the Beach Barista and his coffee van. More spectacular views are on offer at nearby Prospect Hill lookout which takes in an amazing 360-degree vista of the bays to both the north and south coast, while the recently upgraded stairs also offer a pretty good workout (all 500 steps!)

On the southern coast, Seal Bay was also untouched by the fires. Apart from the obvious attraction of the seals and guided tours – this is also an area where the geological features offer sensational visual and textural contrast with the ocean. Close-by businesses like Raptor Domain and Kangaroo Island Wilderness adventures are all go, so there is plenty to see and do here. When hunger strikes, the Vivonne Bay General Store is still a great place to stop for a whiting burger, while a dip in the bracing waters off the jetty is the perfect antidote to a hot summer’s day. Take a lazy kayak ride down the river here, charter a fishing boat, go for a surf or simply walk along the pristine white sands and enjoy the views. The fires nearly reached the township and the nearby Vivonne Bay Lodge was destroyed, but the tireless efforts of the emergency services prevented further destruction.

Heading further west, we could see that the fires had left their mark and it’s hard not to mourn the loss of Flinders Chase National Park, where about 96 per cent of the park was scorched. But this new landscape is not without beauty. Regrowth has already begun and many trees were covered in beautiful young buds in poignant contrast to their burnt trunks. It’s a testament to the will of nature to prevail. The incredible yaccas are green again, and in place of what I

Above and top right: Regrowth and revegetation coming on strong only four weeks after the bushfires. Bottom right: KIS (Kangaroo Island Spirits) – one of the many local producers making delicious products to try.

imagined to be a landscape of ruin, we found a landscape of beauty. We cannot overemphasise how stunning it all still is.

Long-time local Nick Hannaford captured what this regrowth means for the people and businesses of the island: ‘The fascinating and dynamic process of nature’s recovery has great tourism value in its own right. If we allow the recovery process to be perceived as an end goal, we give no reason for tourists to visit us right now.’ I couldn’t agree more. Before visiting the island, I really felt that we were going to be heading into a kind of war zone. And I’m sure it did feel this way during the fires, but I was beyond relieved to find that life is, quite literally, continuing on. The destruction of bushland has resulted in a massive loss of habitat and many local groups are working hard to ensure the protection and safety of the precious insects, reptiles and animals that have survived. Alongside this, the community needs tourists to keep coming. We happily immersed ourselves in the delicious distractions offered by the likes of Rockpool Cafe at Stokes Bay and Kangaroo Island Spirits, which is now part of a little food and wine hub called the Cygnet River Artisan Trail. The trail is just a stone’s throw from the township of Kingscote where we enjoyed the deliciously fresh Asianinspired foods of Cactus.

At the time of writing, the Flinders Chase National Park had just reopened for the first time with some visitors and locals given access. The park’s Cape du Couedic Lighthouse and Lighthouse Keepers Cottages were saved and the famed Admiral’s Arch was unaffected, though the Remarkable Rocks no longer wear their crust of orange lichen quite so brightly. While a full reopening is still a way off, limited tours will soon resume.

Some of the acts that will be featured at the 2020 Bush Festival: Top: From the UK – The Late Bloomers. Bottom left: From Scotland – The Clown Fish Theatre Show. Middle: String and vocal duo – Doctor Stovepipe. Bottom right: Glamping tents will be set up and available for guests who want to stay.

Bush Festival

In 2019, a new comedy, arts and music festival started up in the heartland of Kangaroo Island. This year, Bush Festival – AKA the KI Comedy Festival – will return to the iconic soldier settler merino and cattle farm of Eleanor Downs.

The festival showcases a dedicated troop of international Fringe acts who perform their award-winning shows for a crowd of enthusiastic locals sitting under the gum trees and on hay bales, with the kookaburras joining in on the laughter.

This year’s festival has a special and grateful spirit attached to it. January’s devastating bushfires swept through the Parndana area, reaching Wittows Creek where the festival takes place. Had it not been for the bravery and hard work of the CFS, local farmers and volunteer firefighters, the creek would not have survived.

In the wake of the fire’s destruction, the six visiting international acts are even more pumped to bring laughter, joy and happiness to both locals and guests on Saturday, March 21. In addition to the action on stage, there will be local award-winning chefs showcasing their food, face painters, musicians and glamping tents provided by Wandering Souls to sleep in.

And with a little luck, the local CFS will be able to have the day off to spray down the kids if the weather is hot.

For tickets and event information, please visit Bush Festival on Facebook or eventbrite. There are many local accommodation options available for visitors and many places to visit – Sealink ferry has regular ferries visiting and hire cars are available.

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Elders Insurance has been proudly supporting regional Australia for over 150 years. In the wake of the recent bushfires on Kangaroo Island, we are committed to helping the community get back on its feet and you can make a difference too. Book a getaway, pack your bags and head to KI because the Island community really needs your holiday dollar. You’ll discover fresh produce, craft beer and wine, you’ll go bush walking, beach combing and sight-seeing. You will get away from ‘it all’ and there’s really no better time than now to do that, on Kangaroo Island. You’ll come home refreshed and the KI community will be another step closer to recovery. #bookthemout #takeanemptyesky

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