A Glimpse Into Gender Fashion Evolution

By Chele Sellman

Fashion trends have always been a way for people to express themselves and their values. For instance, in past fashion history, people used to wear clothes that were very simple and covered up. But as time has gone on, people are becoming less afraid of being judged by others and are more willing to experiment with new fashion trends.

Nostalgia is a key part of the fashion machine. When elements from different eras can all appear in one collection, it’s clear that the past is an intrinsic element of our present day. According to Maxime Du Camp, a curator at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, nostalgia is “a product of our time . . . made most evident by the number of young people who wear clothes that have never been worn, but remind them of their childhood.”

Although it is nearly impossible to cumulatively analyze each era’s influence on modern-day design, curators concur that the 19th century is perhaps the era richest in references. From the drape of a sleeve to the placement of a specific embroidery, the 1800s, by some accounts, were the true genesis of modern fashion as we know it today— when trends began to cycle on a consistent basis. The Victorian era is said to have brought the rise of fashion, as women found themselves more powerful than ever and began participating in the public sphere. Fashion during this time was largely “religious” in nature; many women wore formal dresses as a tribute to their husbands.

The Industrial Revolution, which brought about new technologies, including stronger steel and higher-quality fabrics, brought about an evolution of styles for both men and women. Men’s fashion changed from that of classically-styled suits to a more casual attire. Women, in turn, began wearing shorter dresses and going without corsets. The male suit had been a work uniform worn by those in professional occupations since the 18th century. As the Industrial Revolution progressed and jobs became less physically demanding, men’s clothing underwent many changes as they moved away from what was traditionally considered their formal attire. Fashionable young men started sporting long hair and clean-shaven faces with skinny pants that were much more comfortable than the tight breeches and full-length jackets worn in previous generations. This fashion trend became known as “dandies”, and this article of clothing quickly developed into a stereotype where men were considered feminine if they wore anything other than the classic three-piece suit. The dandies’ look took on an even more traditionally female form in the early 20th century when the trend became crossdressed. Men would wear dresses, slacks, pearls, high heels, underwear, and a hat. The dandies origins are closely tied to the concept of gallantry, as it was originally a “man about town” who would be distinguished by his charming wit and extravagant dress. The symbols of the dandy-man included roses, ruffles, lace, feathers, and elaborate hats.

Fashionable men from European royalty to people in the lower class were usually considered dandies. In the later years, they were seen as “silly” or “frivolous”, but could also be described as “refined and elegant.” It became a quick assumption that men were thought of as undignified if they wore women’s clothing, which led to a new style of dress that was relatively free from gender signifiers.

The men in this era also created their own type of dance called the Minuet, which was popular in the late 17th and early 18th centuries. The two separate identities created an intersectional view of gender for European social dances. The men were able to create their own dances without the sexual connotations that caused women to abstain from such activities during this time period.

In the 19th century, the uncertainty of how gender roles should be defined caused a blurring of the gender lines in fashion, emerging the “dandies” fashion trend. It’s worth noting that this phenomenon is not specific to the 19th century and proceeds to evolve as fashion and society continue to change.

The past centuries have brought a wealth of inspiration to the world of fashion, with styles and trends from various time periods influencing concepts and designs seen today. This has led to a diverse and ever-evolving fashion industry with something to offer for everyone. It will be interesting to see what 2023 fashion will look like to those looking back from 2073.