29 minute read
Watering Can
from Nov/Dec 2021
A Note from the Editor
—Hamilton Wright Mabie
FOR THE MOST PART, the word “conspiracy” instills a sense of fear, subterfuge, negativity, and—let’s face it— a bit of crazy. That doesn’t mean that there are not conspiracies afoot, for good or for ill. However, I am enamored by Mabie’s use of the term here. What would it look and feel like for the whole world to simply drop arms, prejudices, grudges, fears, malice, and condemnations and ask for our hearts to be fi lled with love? Not just love for our friends, family, and others who are easy to love, but love for those who act and think and believe di erently from us. I have a vision of people whispering, “Psst, I love you; pass it on.”
To this dream, let’s add a healthy dollop of gratitude as we gather this holiday season at the Thanksgiving table and around football games on television while bouncing our children or grandchildren on our laps, welcoming college students home, swapping gifts and stories around the tree, taking long walks, and delivering provisions to those in need.
As you peruse the pages of our holiday issue, my hope is that the festively dressed houses—a designer’s warm and chic home in New Orleans; a cheerfully self-confi dent Birmingham house; and a peaceful, elegant Long Island residence—will add joy and inspiration to this season. We also invite you to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of iconic American Master Gardener Frederick Law Olmsted with us as we visit one of his lovingly restored gardens outside Philadelphia.
Sending much love for the holidays and beyond,
Margot Shaw EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Please send your comments, triumphs, challenges & questions to: wateringcan@fl owermag.com OR: Letters to the Editor Flower magazine I P.O. Box 530645 I Birmingham, AL 35253 Get the Flower email newsletter! Sign up at fl owermag.com/news
VOLUME 15, ISSUE 6
Margot Shaw FOUNDER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Julie Gillis MANAGING EDITOR Nicole Gerrity Haas ART DIRECTOR
Terri Robertson DIGITAL MEDIA MANAGER Amanda Smith Fowler STYLE EDITOR
Kate Johnson PRODUCTION/COPY EDITOR Maren Edwards EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT
EDITOR-AT-LARGE Karen Carroll
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Alice Welsh Doyle James Farmer Kirk Reed Forrester
Marion La ey Fox Elaine Gri n Tara Guérard Sallie Lewis Frances MacDougall Tovah Martin Cathy Still McGowin Charlotte Moss Matthew Robbins Margaret Zainey Roux Frances Schultz Sybil Sylvester
For editorial inquiries: editorial@fl owermag.com
Julie Durkee PUBLISHER
Jennel O’Brien DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Susan Sutton SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Suzanne Cooper NATIONAL DIRECTOR, HOME FURNISHINGS
REGIONAL ACCOUNT DIRECTORS Wendy Ellis Sara D. Taylor
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BUSINESS OFFICE Silvia Rider GENERAL MANAGER Patrick Toomey ACCOUNTANT
Lisa Mitchell SENIOR MANAGER
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ADVISORY BOARD
Paula Crockard
Winn Crockard Gavin Duke Gay Estes Katie Baker Lasker Mary Evelyn McKee
Michael Mundy Ben Page Angèle Parlange Renny Reynolds Scott Shepherd Remco van Vliet Evie Vare Carleton Varney Louise Wrinkle
What We’ve Got Our Eyes On
Scene
Humphry Repton’s infl uence is evident in the rolling meadows of the many English landscapes he designed.
READING LIST
On Our Nightstands
A ROUNDUP OF MUST-READ INTERIORS AND GARDENS BOOKS Humphry Repton: Designing the Landscape Garden
by John Phibbs (Rizzoli, 2021), $75 Regarded by many as the last great landscape designer of the 18th century, Humphry Repton left his indelible mark on gardens across his homeland of England. This defi nitive survey explores 15 of his most celebrated landscapes, including his early gardens at Courteenhall and Mulgrave Castle and his more adventurous landscapes at Stanage, Brightling, and Endsleigh. With photography by Joe Cornish, as well as reproductions of key illustrations and plans for gardens from Humphry’s personal “red books,” this volume gives readers an inside look at the intricacies of the designer’s vision and process.
WHAT WE’VE GOT OUR EYES ON ...
READING LIST (CONTINUED)
VICTORIA HAGAN: LIVE NOW
ABOVE: While Victoria Hagan’s book features 12 magnifi cent homes, they all share a classic elegance, strong palettes, textural depth, and aesthetic rigor, as seen in this living space. Seasons at Highclere: Gardening, Growing, and Cooking Through the Year at the Real Downton Abbey
by The Countess of Carnarvon (Rizzoli, 2021), $40 Best known as the setting for the historical drama Downton Abbey, Highclere Castle is the epitome of an English country manor. This book, written by Lady Fiona Carnarvon, who currently resides in and runs the estate, o ers insights into how the seasons govern daily life. In addition to detailing activities and gardening responsibilities, the countess, a consummate hostess, shares her tips and menus for seasonal entertaining.
Vaux-le-Vicomte: A Private Invitation
by Guillaume Picon (Flammarion, 2021), $85 Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte’s rich history began in 1641 when infamous French fi nance minister Nicolas Fouquet, the original owner, worked to create a harmonious relationship between architecture and landscape. To assist him, Nicolas enlisted a number of talented artisans of the time, such as architect Louis Le Vau, painter Charles Le Brun, and garden designer André Le Nôtre. So spectacular were the results that Louis XIV used the gardens as inspira tion for Versailles. This book traces the château’s history from the 17th century through the Belle Époque, World War I, and its public opening in 1968.
The Garden Book
by Phaidon Editors, Toby Musgrave, and Tim Richardson (Phaidon, 2021), $60 Originally published in 2000, this revised edition includes over 150 new and updated entries. The book is a veritable who’s who of the world’s fi nest garden makers, planters, and horticulturists, along with their signature works.
Victoria Hagan: Live Now
by Victoria Hagan (Rizzoli, 2021), $55 Acclaimed interior designer Victoria Hagan wrote this book after, like all of us, spending a year at home during the pandemic. She began to see her life and space with new eyes. The result is this life-a rming look at the nature of home and how it connects, comforts, and nourishes us.
WHAT WE’VE GOT OUR EYES ON ...
TRAVEL
Swanky Sippings
Banish the traditional vineyard wine-tasting room and bring on some serious chic. Elizabeth and Guy Pelly, owners of Merrie Mill Farm & Vineyard near Charlottesville, Virginia, engaged project head Jenn Grandcamp of the spirited design firm Kemble Interiors to revamp their wine-tasting room. Elizabeth explains her vision for the space: “I wanted the tasting room to feel like a home, both architecturally and decoratively. Jenn and I used eclectic furnishings—a mix of modern and old—along with personal artwork and lots of color, pattern, and texture. There is a lot to look at—sort of a maximalist wonderland.” The duo also took inspiration from old cabinets of curiosities. The decor is a mash-up of eras and ideas— zoological wallpaper, custom blownglass chandeliers from Rothschild & Bickers, and copper bars. With a simple menu of shareables such as cheese and charcuterie, chicken salad, and pimento cheese, the wine-tasting room is making its mark in this quaint area, inviting visitors to eat, drink, and be Merrie! merriemillfarm.com
HOME DECOR
FLORA AND FAUNA
Taking inspiration from historic Asian royal gardens, home décor design company Mind the Gap has launched its new Chinese Garden Collection. Based on the floral patterns of Chinese hand-painting and chinoiserie, the collection includes 11 wallpapers full of dramatic color and captivating details. In an e ort to re-create the whimsical scenes replete with Asian flowers and birds, the papers showcase an array of botanical elements and motifs. With this homage to China’s extensive horticultural history, consumers can journey into a world of painterly blossoms, with Mind the Gap’s commitment to sustainability at the forefront. mindtheg.com
TOP LEFT: Elizabeth and Guy Pelly combined their devotion to warm hospitality and their penchant for quirky, maximalist design to create a unique experience in the wine-tasting room at Merrie Mill Farm & Vineyard. TOP RIGHT: With its new collection, Mind the Gap pays homage to China’s vast history and exquisite craftsmanship. ABOVE: Liz Poole’s Velvet Linen line is becoming a favorite of those who love bold, beautiful, refined design.
ACCESSORIES
Botanical Beauties
Liz Poole, known for her work creating costumes for musicals, theater, and most recently the Netflix period drama Bridgerton, is always looking at her own country garden in Sussex, England, for creative inspiration. Within her Velvet Linen line, she has launched various collections that include pillows, clutches, quilts, and home accessories, all influenced by flowers and foliage that change throughout the seasons. Her newest, The Jewel Collection, launched in October, just in time for holiday gift giving. velvetlinen.co.uk
WHAT WE’VE GOT OUR EYES ON ...
EDIBLES
Food as Art
“I love the challenge of making bespoke products, and I love to push boundaries,” says London cake designer Emma Dodi. One look at her artistic creations and it’s clear that she has pushed well past those boundaries as she expertly captures the personalities, characters, and styles of her clients. Emma’s goal is to translate the vision of each person into reality, bringing elegance and romance to every design. While the talented baker has always had an artistic eye, it wasn’t until a friend suggested she take a cakedecorating class that she realized her calling. That led
to the o cial launch of Emma Dodi Cakes in 2016. But cakes are not the only confections she creates. The baker is also known for her hand-painted macarons. These intricately detailed sweets appear as dainty pieces of art that almost seem too beautiful to eat. Even with so much focus on the aesthetics of her creations, Emma doesn’t overlook the importance of taste. She constantly experiments with new methods and fl avors that keep customers coming back. By using only the fi nest ingredients, Emma ensures that the inside of each cake is just as exquisite as the outside. emmadodicakes.com
ABOVE: This fl oral cake by Emma Dodi (left) was inspired by a dress designed by Oscar de la Renta (right) and worn by Taylor Swift to the 2021 Grammy Awards ceremony. BELOW: Ceramicist Susan Gordon uses a custom shade of Weezie blue to create fl owerpatterned pottery pieces that perfectly coordinate with the brand’s luxury towels.
ARTISANS
A Perfect Match
Weezie has taken its beloved luxury towels—and the brand’s custom shade of blue—one step further by teaming up with Birmingham, Alabama–based ceramicist Susan Gordon to launch a limited edition collection of bath accessories and coordinating hand towels. This uniquely giftable collaboration o ers two fl oral-patterned trays and one toothbrush cup, along with white hand towels with French blue piping and embroidery. Customers can also opt for a single embroidered letter. Pottery set, from $230; towels, from $70. weezietowels.com
WHAT WE’VE GOT OUR EYES ON ...
In true bibliophile form, writer Julia Reed built bookcases that encircle her entire dining room. Nothing says home quite like being surrounded by the things you love.
INSIGHTS
CHARLOTTE MOSS TAKES US HOME
“My house in the Mississippi Delta was born on a legal pad in Birmingham’s Highlands Bar & Grill over martinis with the gifted architect James Carter,” wrote the late Julia Reed of the house she built on a piece of land near her childhood home. Her musings are included in Home: A Celebration (Rizzoli, 2021), a collection of personal refl ections on the concept of home compiled by designer Charlotte Moss. In addition to Julia’s insights, this ode to sanctuary includes essays by other notables such as Tory Burch, John Derian, John Grisham, Corey Damen Jenkins, Jon Meacham, and Kelly Wearstler. Inspired by Edith Wharton’s 1916 Book of the Homeless, which raised funds to aid refugees and children during World War I, Charlotte collaborated with No Kid Hungry, a campaign committed to ending childhood hunger. A portion of the proceeds from book sales goes directly to No Kid Hungry.
Gift Guide • Garden • Decorate: Flowers • Travel in Bloom
Santa’s on His Way
OUR FLOWER FAMILY SHARES THEIR FAVORITE THINGS TO WRAP UP UNDER THE TREE
Produced and styled by Amanda Smith Fowler Photography by David Hillegas
—FRANCES MACDOUGALL, CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
“Nothing is more fl attering—and festive—than candlelight, especially during the holidays when those we hold near and dear come to celebrate with us at home. These chic lamp shades give off a similar, sophisticated glow and come in a myriad of colors. They are just as lovely unlit during the day as they are magical at night.”
—AMANDA SMITH FOWLER, STYLE EDITOR
Previous page: Short Foundry urn ($845) by Ray Booth for Arteriors, arteriorshome.com • This page: Marbled papertable lamp shades ($48 each) in Green & White and Green & Yellow paired with brass table lamp bases ($130 each) • Leap ornament ($34) from Houses & Parties, housesandparties.com • 3-Step Skin Recovery System with Restoring Eye Serum ($549/3-piece kit) by Sapelo Skin Care, sapeloskincare.com • Leather keepsake box ($250) by Moore & Giles, mooreandgiles .com • Lucy Cope matchstrike ($850) from Circa Interiors & Antiques, circainteriors.com • Snow Ball plate ($72) by John Derian Company, johnderian.com • Classic throw in Herringbone Sage ($445) by Alicia Adams Alpaca, aliciaadamsalpaca.com
—KAREN CARROLL, EDITOR-AT-LARGE
To see the recipe Karen uses for her homemade limoncello, visit fl owermag.com • Arcade lacquer tray ($295) by Jonathan Adler, jonathanadler.com • Perfect Pair ornament ($38) and Friandise service ($886) from Houses & Parties, housesandparties.com • Custom-colored Solid Sweet cookies ($40/box of 49) by The Rounds, theroundsnyc.com • Herend NutcrackerDrummer fi gurines ($495 each) through Martin’s Herend Imports, herendusa.com • Cashmere Tiger Rug throw in Mustard ($1,425) through Circa Interiors & Antiques, circainteriors.com • Oyster Wood acrylic block soap dish ($40) and Dorset Gold Lion’s Head guest soaps ($20/box of 4) by Reprotique, reprotiqueart.com
—MARION LAFFEY FOX, CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Fern covered bonbonniere ($745) by William Yeoward Crystal, williamyeowardcrystal.com • Strawberry layer cake ($79) from We Take the Cake, wetakethecake.com • Estelle cake stand ($225) in Rose by Estelle Colored Glass, estellecoloredglass.com • 16 Pink Blush jewelry box ($349) by Rose Box NYC, roseboxnyc.com • Graeter’s Black Raspberry Chocolate Chip ice cream ($80/6 pints) through Goldbelly, goldbelly.com • Pink Dahlia dinner napkins ($40/set of 4) by Julia Amory, juliaamory.com • Multitasker ornament ($52) from Houses & Parties, housesandparties.com
—MARGOT SHAW, EDITOR IN CHIEF
In the Garden canvas (from $25), Sunlit Ferns canvas (from $126), and Gingher Stork embroidery scissors ($24), all by Lycette Designs, lycettedesigns.com • White, Light Blue, and Electric Fire Hose vases ($50 each) from Surcie, shopsurcie.com • Blow Hard ornament ($42) from Houses & Parties, housesandparties.com • Deluxe Vine & Bloom Box of gardenias ($249) from High Camp Supply, highcampsupply.com • Sorrento bowl ($495) by Lily Juliet from Vanessa Fox, shopvanessafox.com • Rock crystal stone intaglio bracelet ($16,925), Orvieto gold chain necklace ($14,875 for 31-inch), and cerulean Hound Head Venetian glass intagliopendant ($4,725) by Elizabeth Locke Jewels, elizabethlockejewels.com • Prince of Peace stocking ($85) by Bauble Stockings, baublestockings.com • The Plush Mat ($78) by Jollie, bejollie.com (every purchase helps fund yoga-therapy programs for pediatric cancer patients)
Natural Inclinations
IN AN EXCERPT FROM TOM STUART-SMITH: DRAWN FROM THE LAND, THE ENGLISH LANDSCAPE DESIGNER SHARES INSIGHTS AND INSPIRATIONS THAT HAVE SHAPED HIS DECADES OF WORK
Text by Tom Stuart-Smith
It was the encounter with Piet Oudolf’s work which encouraged me, along with so many others, to plant on a more expansive scale. I had read about some of the Dutch and German work with perennials but had never visited Westpark in Munich or Piet’s nursery at Hummelo in the Netherlands. But Piet’s garden for John Coke at Bury Court was eye-opening. I recall seeing the meadow of Deschampsia cespitosa with Trifolium rubens scattered through it like loose purple confetti. By today’s standards the garden layout seems quite mannered, but there was the beginning of a freeing-up of the plan so that plants were not just arranged in linear sequences but were all around, interacting in countless, often
In his more recent projects, Tom Stuart-Smith takes an experimental, naturalist approach to horticulture, as seen in the landscape at a vineyard in Spain’s Duero Valley. BELOW: At his own home in the Hertfordshire countryside, Tom designed a courtyard around steel water tanks he had previously used in a 2005 Chelsea Flower Show garden.
unforeseen ways. The balance between man and plant was readdressed in favor of the plant. This seems to me the important catalyst. Using plants in these larger expanses inevitably means getting away from composing a merely linear flower arrangement, where plants seem like lines of suspects subjected to the scrutiny of an ID parade. The viewer is forced to ask, how do these plants relate to one another? It’s then a short step to looking into how they grow in their natural habitat.
I saw the Bury Court meadow, which is actually quite a modest area, in its prime, before the Deschampsia died out and the clover went rather leggy. It had such simple grace, as if it were just getting on with its own business of being grass and clover. Growing, flowering, and of course dying. Piet is the evangelist of decay.
At this time I was filling my own garden with short-lived verbascums, giant thistles, and other unruly things that suckered, seeded, and generally misbehaved. It was up to me to keep them in check. This is all very well on your own watch or if you are lucky enough to work with a gardener with lots of patience and understanding, but I gradually learnt that the spontaneous and slightly disorderly look I was drawn to had to be reined in a little if it (and me, I suppose) wasn’t to come o the rails. I remember once coming quite spectacularly unstuck when I enthusiastically recommended a clump of Sambucus ebulus, the handsome herbaceous dwarf elder, for a planting on heavy
TOP: Tom designed this “jewel-box” garden for a Worcestershire manse. ABOVE: This project in North Yorkshire, England, consists of two terraced gardens in completely di erent styles. The yellow tones of phlomis, digitalis, and eremurus envelope the upper level, while the plantings become darker and richer below the pool. LEFT: In Dorset, England, Tom designed a yew-hedged “paradise garden” to sit within a walled garden of wildflowers.
clay in the middle of France. The elder duly helped itself and in nine months covered an area about half the size of a tennis court, engulfing all before it in an inexorable flow of green. Sometimes a plant can be just a bit too happy.
As I developed my own practice I was able to expand my garden at home, and my experimentations with plants accelerated. The garden began to take some shape, and various patterns started to fall into place about how I was using plants.
I moved away from the idea of having very di erent types of planting in di erent areas of the garden, which I think I had inherited from all those Arts and Crafts gardens I had visited. This seemed more a collector’s approach than one in which planting is a tool to create and manipulate the atmosphere of a place. Instead I gravitated towards the concept that planting is like a medium that can flow between spaces, gradually being transformed by them to take on a character that emphasizes the physical setting or the desired mood in relation to the nature of the surroundings. So there might be a subtle gradient of change between di erent parts of a garden, but not sudden discontinuities.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Tom collaborated with horticultural ecologist James Hitchmough to create the meadows at Oakhill in Kent, England. • Another project in Kent involved platforms planted with persicaria, Euphorbia cornigera, Salvia nemorosa ‘Amethyst’, and Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’, all leading to a pool building designed by architectural firm Sergison Bates. • In Wiltshire, England, a distinctive thatched wall serves as the backdrop for an abundance of perennial plantings.
Tom Stuart-Smith: Drawn from the Land
by Tim Richardson (Thames & Hudson, 2021), $75, barnesandnoble.com
Excerpted from Tom Stuart-Smith: Drawn from the Land © 2021 Thames & Hudson Ltd., London; text © 2021 Tom Stuart-Smith. Reprinted by permission of Thames & Hudson Inc., thamesandhudsonusa.com.
MATERIALS
Wire wreath frame Floral water tubes Floral wire Douglas-fir Juniper berry clusters Ilex berries Roses Carnations Delphinium Lisianthus Lilies Sparkly decorative wire Faux-pearl sprigs
Erin McClendis of E. Vincent Floral Design
THE ATLANTA-BASED FLORAL DESIGNER MAKES A HOLIDAY WREATH WITH JEWEL-TONED FLOWERS AND SPARKLING DETAILS
Produced by Alice Welsh Doyle • Photography by David Hillegas
My Inspiration:
I wanted to step away from the traditional wreath and include a variety of fresh flowers, berries, and faux materials, mixing up the classic Christmas palette with some brighter hues like blues and pinks.
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STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
STEP 1 Use precut pieces of the Douglas-fi r to create individual bundles that will serve as the base for the wreath. Gather four or fi ve pieces per bundle to ensure they are dense enough to cover the wire frame.
STEP 2 Wire the fi rst bundle directly onto the wreath with fl oral wire. Hold the bundle against the wire frame, and then wrap fl oral wire around it to attach it. Wrap the bundle several times to secure it.
STEP 3 Layer the second bundle on top of the fi rst. As you add more bundles, start layering in additional texture and color using the fl owers, juniper berries, and faux materials. When adding fl owers into the bundles, make a fresh cut, and then insert the stems into a fl oral water tube. That will make it easy to change out the fl owers when they fade.
STEP 4 Continue to vary the fl owers, juniper berries, and faux materials you add to the greenery in each bundle. Most of the fl owers I chose, such as carnations and roses, have a long bloom life and strong stems.
STEP 5 Be sure to alternate bundles between ones consisting of only fi r and ones with a mix. Step back occasionally to view the whole wreath and make sure you are happy with the look.
STEP 6 Fill the entire wire wreath, making sure some of the fi r drapes o the frame for movement. Then check that every bundle is secure. Make adjustments if needed.
STEP 7 Tuck some of the bright red ilex berries into the wreath to provide additional texture. Because the stems of the berries are so strong, they can simply be inserted into the prewired bundles of greenery and fl owers.
STEP 8 Add some sparkle to the wreath. (I picked a shiny, copper-colored wire and wove it throughout the design.) Then choose the best place to showcase your wreath, such as on the front door, on a garden gate, or inside your home.
La Dolce Vita on the Amal Coast
DISCOVER WHY THESE SOUTHERN ITALY SHORES HAVE LONG INSPIRED ARTISTS AND TRAVELERS ALIKE
by Marion La ey Fox
Low-slung excursion boats, designed to slip under cave openings, crowd the entrance to The Blue Grotto, Capri’s most famous attraction.
It’s no secret that the island of Capri and the stunning Amalfi Coast have epitomized glamour, beauty, and sybaritic indulgences for the rich and famous for centuries. When Roman emperors such as Augustus and Tiberius claimed the area for personal pleasure, it became synonymous with a rarefi ed type of la dolce vita that was later relished by notables such as Richard Wagner, Gore Vidal, Sophia Loren, and Elizabeth Taylor, to name a few.
Begin your adventure when you hop aboard a hydrofoil in the chaotic Naples harbor, where hordes of day-trippers fi ll the rocking boats for a voyage to Capri’s craggy, 2-by-4-mile rocky surface. Upon disembarking, skip the long funicular queue that can take over an hour. Instead, hand your suitcase to a porter, who will transport it to your destination, and then hail an open-air taxi to take you as close to your hotel as possible. (That means you will be dropped o somewhere in the vicinity of Capri and Anacapri, the two towns where most hotels are located.)
Once ensconced in your hotel, you can turn over sightseeing arrangements to knowledgeable sta members who can orchestrate the nuances of life on this rocky needle jutting out of the sea. Request advance reservations for a boat excursion to The Blue Grotto, where you will be exhilarated by the color of the water. And don’t miss the splendor of
ABOVE AND RIGHT: At the Tiberio Palace hotel, guests enjoy dramatic views, whether from the pool outside the Bellevue Suite or from a balcony laid out with a chefprepared breakfast. BELOW: Capri’s Marina Grande is alive with tourists boarding vessels bound for The Blue Grotto.
touring the Gardens of Augustus. Grab a taxi to enjoy an overview of the island, but be sure to allow ample time to wander around the two towns and explore the magnificent shopping on foot.
By late afternoon, most day-trippers have piled back onto vessels bound for the mainland, leaving Capri at its best. After the mass exodus, this fragrant island of myrtle, juniper, oleander, heather, and lemons seems to sigh with relief, rewarding overnighters with views bathed in its eternal light. In the distance, the outline of the coast switches on, and Piazza Umberto, the social hub of the island, fills with a quieter crowd. Now is the time to savor moments of gazing out to sea over a glass of wine while the sky is electrified with incandescent streams of aquamarine, hot pink, bright orange, and violet. You are sure to hear the sound of music wafting from a local gathering spot or perhaps even someone singing opera—quite appropriate for this beautiful scene.
Just o the piazza, the Capri Tiberio Palace hotel is lavished with a throwaway-chic sensibility and plenty of stop-in-yourtracks views. The indoor/outdoor pool is a favorite place to chill out away from the crowds. Book a treatment in the Spa Tiberio, dine on fresh Mediterranean fare at the Terrazza Tiberio, and enjoy a nightcap in the Jacky Bar.
There are casual eateries and pizzerias tucked into improbable
RIGHT, TOP AND BOTTOM: Vintage black-and-white photos, including ones with Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, document the long history of Canfora’s sandal-making enterprise, dating from 1946. Choose a style and leather color, get measured, and pick up your bespoke sandals the same day. BELOW: Be sure to visit the beautiful linen and cashmere shop Farella.
nooks everywhere. Le Grottelle, whose kitchen is in a cave, features sublime seafood with views of the Amalfi Coast’s Li Galli Islands, while L’Olivo, in the iconic Capri Palace hotel, boasts memorable two-Michelin-star fare.
Shopping is an art form on the island and was first encouraged by Emilio Pucci, who opened his original boutique here in the 1950s. It seems that almost everyone on Capri sews or is an artisan, so visitors are tempted around every curve of the road by windblown garments hanging from limestone rock faces or fine handmade jewelry that fills up shop windows and specialty boutiques.
Canfora, the island’s most famous sandal maker, is known for having shod Jackie Onassis. Family-owned Farella makes irresistible knitwear, while Autori Capresi features luxurious resort clothing for all ages. Be sure to stop at Carthusia, the perfumer with roots as far back as 1380, when a monk unexpectedly created a fragranced water. Everything is so bespoke and beautiful that it will be hard to pick a favorite scent. Also check out 100% Capri, known by many as having “the finest linen in the world.”
After a few pampering days in Capri, hop on a boat for the mainland and spend some additional time taking in the sheer
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Cocktail time is best enjoyed with a crisp Italian wine and delectable canapés over riveting water views, such as those from Il Riccio at the Capri Palace hotel. • A high wall covered with flowering vines lines a walk in the Gardens of Augustus. • Mount Vesuvius, towering above the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, is a must-see. • La Lanterna’s outdoor tables o er another flavor of Capri’s dining scene. beauty of the Amalfi Coast, a veritable cornucopia of stacked towns, Roman ruins, monasteries, coves, gardens, and fishing villages. The ideal way to experience this gorgeous slice of heaven is to choose one or two overnight spots and then plan day trips to the others.
Farther north, 4,000-foot-high Mount Vesuvius, mainland Europe’s only active volcano, smolders over the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii. And don’t miss the iconic destinations of Amalfi, Positano, Sorrento, and Ravello.
Carved into the cliffs in Positano, Il San Pietro, one of the most romantic hotels in the world, appears to be an architectural wonder. Up the road, Le Sirenuse is another beauty known for its superb service and cuisine. Honeymooners flock to the evening champagne service, over which they can relish canoodling in romantic nooks with views of the bay.
Ravello, site of the famed summer music festival, o ers a dramatically di erent mountain perspective. And be sure to stop in at Hotel Villa Cimbrone, set over the sparkling sea amid flower-filled gardens.
Wherever the tortuous roads take you on the Amalfi Coast, you are sure to be rewarded at every turn. Its natural beauty and miraculous light continue to inspire artists and travelers who are drawn back year after year.
