In freshwater rivers, streams, lakes, and even the neighborhood pond. You can also fly fish in saltwater - at the beach, in the marsh, and even offshore.
(you’ll need a boat for that).
Basically, fly fishing is a type of fishing that uses an artificial lure to catch fish instead of bait.
Made by hand, using material on a hook to imitate something fish want to eat.
It’s a great way to catch freshwater species like trout, bass, panfish and carp. And it can be used in saltwater for striped bass, redfish, tarpon, marlin, and sharks.
(you’ll need a BIGGER boat for that).
There is more to fly fishing than using an artificial lure to catch fish.
It is a specific type of fishing that uses a fly rod, fly line, and artificial lure (called a “fly”) to catch fish.
or (more accurately) spend a day outside with friends attempting to catch fish
something from the real world that fish want to eat, like a worm or small fish.
A fly rod is designed to cast in a unique way - it casts the weight of the line rather than the weight of the lure at the end of the line.
FLY LINES & FLY RODS RANGE IN WEIGHT
Usually the rod is referred to by the weight of the fly line it was designed to cast, so usually the rod and the line are referred to by the same weight.
Let’s break down the basics. Fly rod, fly reel, line, leader, and flies.
FLY
FLY RODS
Fly rods come in variations of weight and length and pieces, and in both single-handed and double-handed varieties.
The majority of rods these days are 9ft long and come in four sections (often referred to as a “9-foot 4-piece” rod) and are intended for singlehanded casting.
Some shorter rods are available, down to around 6.5ft with most in the 7ft to 8.5ft range; shorter rods mostly
get used for fishing in small creeks with lots of overhanging branches where a longer rod becomes a hindrance to casting.
Some longer rods are also available; single-handed rods in the 10-11ft range are mostly used for a style of trout fishing known as “nymphing” where the rod is used extensively to manage line on and in the water rather than just for casting and fighting fish.
Line and rod weights are determined mostly by two factors: the size and weight of the flies being thrown, and the fish being targeted.
here’s a quick rough reference guide to rod weights
a FE w THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND w HEN c HOOSING a FLY r OD . 0-3 4 5 6 7-8 9 10 11-12 13-15 r OD w EIGHT PU r POSE
Small creeks, small flies, usually for small trout or panfish
Used mostly for dry fly trout fishing and some small warmwater species
By far the most common and versatile rod weight, used for trout and many warmwater species
Another versatile option suitable for larger flies and bigger trout, as well as carp, bass, and certain small saltwater species
Common rod weights for large trout, steelhead, carp, bass, redfish, speckled trout, sheepshead, bonefish, and more
Arguably the most popular weight for medium size saltwater targets, especially permit and large bonefish
Suitable for permit in windy conditions, small tarpon, snook,roosterfish, jack crevalle, and more
The most common choices for tarpon, large snook, giant trevally, and some smaller bluewater species like mahi-mahi and tuna
Used mostly for billfish and large pelagic species
Fly size, fly weight, and wind resistance are factors when choosing a rod weight; a “heavier” rod is generally stiffer, so it’s usually easier to throw bigger and heavier flies with a heavier rod, especially if it’s windy. But there are a number of trade-offs here:
• Most people don’t enjoy catching small fish with a heavy rod.
• Catching big fish with a light rod is exciting but can take longer, tiring the fish and making it harder for them to recover after being released.
• Lighter rods are usually used with lighter tippet, and the rod’s flexible tip helps absorb the fish’s movements, protecting the light tippet.
• With stronger tippet, a fly rod can handle a lot of pressure; heavier rods are typically used for fighting large fish rather than protecting light lines.
• Rods in the 5wt and lighter range are more flexible, mainly for protecting light tippets and casting short distances (within 30 feet).
• Rods in the 6wt and up range are used for fighting fish, casting longer distances, and casting larger flies in the wind.
THE FLY LINE
The line is where the action is.
Fly
line tapers can be broken into two categories: lines having a relatively heavy and short head section, and lines having a much longer head section.
Fly lines, as we’ve just mentioned, are sold in “weights” intended to be paired with a rod of the same weight.
Unfortunately, that’s where the simple explanation ends; modern fly lines have become very specialized, and it’s possible to become very confused quite quickly.
The complexities have to do with taper, which really just means the way in which weight has been distributed throughout the line. As will be discussed in the casting
section, fly casting is really about moving the weight of the line through the air; instead of casting the weight of the lure, as with conventional fishing, in fly fishing it’s the weight of the fly line that’s being manipulated.
How the weight is distributed along the fly line makes a significant difference in how the fly line behaves during the cast.
Most lines sold today are weight-forward, and for good reason: they’re very effective fishing lines for a broad variety of fishing situations and casting skill levels. w EIGHTFO rwar D
The line’s weight is concentrated in the section closest to where the fly is tied on. HEAD RUNNING LINE
Double-taper lines were more popular in the past, but they still have a small but devoted following of anglers who prefer them for how delicately they can present dry flies and how easy they are to roll-cast. DOUBLE T a PE r
These lines are thicker in the middle and become thinner (taper) towards both ends.
Lines with short heavy heads are great for quick, short shots since they’re able to bend (“load”) the rod with less line out, and they shoot line relatively well; on the flipside, they aren’t good for long, accurate casts or delicate presentations.
Lines with longer heads where the weight has been distributed more evenly across a longer head section of lineare generally better for longer casts and more gentle presentations, but they require better timing and casting technique to tap into those advantages.
BACKING
Fly line backing is a thin braided fishing line that is wound directly onto the reel spool, with the fly line connected to it. Backing serves two purposes: it increases the diameter of the line on the spool, allowing more line to be retrieved with each turn of the reel, and it provides extra line if a strong fish runs far enough to use up the fly line. Fly reel manufacturers provide estimates of how much backing can fit on the spool.
For
THE FLY LINE
LEADERS & TIPPET
These terms can be confusing because anglers sometimes use them interchangeably. A leader is the section of monofilament or fluorocarbon attached to the end of the fly line where the fly is connected. The whole section can be called a “leader,” but “tippet” often refers to the part of the leader closest to the fly.
Leaders come in various designs and lengths depending on the type of fishing. Some leaders are simple, like those for bass and streamers, which might just be a straight section of heavy mono, ranging from 2-3 feet to 7-9 feet long. These leaders are good for casting large flies and for fish that aren’t scared by thick line.
For toothy fish like pike, musky, barracuda, and sharks, you need a wire tippet, often
called a “wire leader.” More complex leaders are usually tapered, meaning the section attached to the fly line is heavy, and it gets progressively lighter toward the fly. “Knotless” tapered leaders, which gently taper from thick to thin, are available from many manufacturers.
However, some anglers prefer to tie their own leaders, knotting together progressively lighter sections toward the tippet where the fly is attached.
Some leaders for underwater fishing (like nymphing and some streamer techniques) allow for attaching weights and multiple flies. Be sure to check local regulations on how many flies you can use.
Let’s get reel, for the most part, it’s all about holding the line.
Some anglers like lighter reels, and some like heavier ones. But most experts agree that reel weight doesn’t matter much for casting. Things like the weight and taper of the line, how much line is out, leader design and length, fly size and weight, and casting skill are much more important.
The weight of one model for a given size may vary somewhat from other models in the same size range.
Rod weights for which the reel has been designed. Most range from 0-3, 4-6, 7-9, and 10-12wt. These aren’t always hard-and-fast rules, but they’re worthwhile as guidelines for beginners.
FLY REEL
It might seem odd that we’re only now talking about the fly reel, but there’s a good reason for it. In most fishing situations, the reel’s main job is to hold the extra line that’s not being used. Many times, you can catch fish without using the reel at all.
In fact, trying to reel in extra line can distract you and cause you to lose the fish. It’s only when you’re dealing with big, strong fish that can run far or use water currents that using the reel becomes important.
Fly reels come in a wide variety of sizes r EEL M a NUF ac TU r E r S INDI ca TE THE ra NGE OF FLY LINE 0-3 4-6 7-9 10-12
REEL DRAG
Most modern reels offer a “drag” setting which creates tension that the fish might fight against when pulling out line, tiring them more quickly. Drag comes in two flavors: so-called “clickpawl” reels offer minimal resistance to the fish and generally aren’t very adjustable; many older reels use this mechanism. “Disc drag” reels use a design which creates adjustable levels of friction to the reel’s spool. Most reels used for powerful saltwater species offer a strong drag system, as do those used for salmon and steelhead. Many modern trout reels also have a powerful drag system, but their full capacity is rarely if ever used.
Zen and the art of tying knots
• Thread the end of the leader through the hook eye where the fly is tied.
• Pull the leader through and lay it next to the rest of the leader.
• Twist the end of the leader that went through the hook around the main part of the leader 5 to 7 times.
• Pass the very end of the leader through the small gap between the two parts of the leader just above the hook eye.
• Moisten the knot and pull tight.
• Take a section of tippet and lay it next to the end of the leader.
• Overlap a small part of tippet with the end of the leader, leaving most of the tippet extending away.
• Hold the overlapping parts and make a loop by folding one side over the other.
• Pass both the leader end and the tippet through the loop from back to front.
• Repeat the previous step.
• Moisten the knot and tighten it.
• Overlap the ends of the lines you want to join.
• Twist one line around the other for 5 turns.
• Bring the tag end back between the two lines.
• Repeat with the other end, wrapping in the opposite direction for the same number of turns.
• Slowly pull the lines in opposite directions to tighten the knot.
• Clip the ends close to the knot.
Connecting a fly line and leader with welded loops:
• Pass the loop of the fly line through the loop of the leader.
• Hold the end of the leader and thread it through the loop of the fly line.
• Pull the leader through until the loops slide together smoothly.
When one piece doesn’t have a loop, you can tie a perfection loop:
• Form a loop at the end of the line by passing the tag end behind the standing line (loop A).
• Wrap around the standing line to form a second loop.
• Wrap again, crossing over the new loop.
• Hold the tag end and pass loop B through loop A.
• Pull loop B tight and trim the tag end.
There are two types of flies in fly fishing: those fished on the water’s surface and those fished below it.
DRY FLIES
Flies that mimic surface bugs are called “dry flies.” They float on the water’s surface like real bugs and are often used by letting them drift naturally in the current.
Flies fished below the surface are known as “wet flies.” Like dry flies, they come in two main types.
POPPERS
Another type of surface fly is called a “popper,” designed to make a splashy noise that attracts fish, especially in situations like bass fishing near lily pads or during feeding frenzies of bluefish or striped bass in the ocean.
see more on our learning center
Nymphs imitate bugs in their larval stage moving from the bottom of a river to the surface.
Streamers imitate small baitfish. STREAMERS
Don’t be intimidated by the ‘tools’, much of this you may already have.
You don’t have to be a gearhead to fly fish, but if you are a gearhead you’ll probably love to fly fish.
NIPPERS
Think nail clippers, but even simpler. If you have an extra pair of nail clippers, you’re all set. Grab those. It’s helpful to keep them on a neck lanyard so they’re always ready when you need them.
FORCEPS SUNGLASSES FLY BOX
Forceps are long, thin pliers with a fine point used to remove fish hooks easily. They resemble lightweight needle nose pliers with finger loops like scissors. Basic forceps cost about ten dollars.
Sunglasses are important for two reasons: they reduce glare from the water, making it easier to focus on fishing, and they protect your eyes from flying hooks.
A basic fly box may not seem important, but it keeps flies from tangling. It has foam inserts or small compartments to hold hooks and flies neatly.
NETS PACKS WADERS WADING BOOTS
Nets are helpful for controlling a fish once you’ve reeled it in. They make it easier to remove hooks and get back to fishing quickly. Most nets use rubber mesh, which prevents tangles with lines and hooks.
Keeping your hands free while fly fishing is important. A waist pack or backpack can hold your tools and equipment. You can buy fly fishing-specific packs, but a regular fanny pack or backpack works fine to get started.
Waders are made of coated nylon or breathable material and are used in cold water. If you’re fishing from a bank or in warm water, you probably won’t need them. Waders usually don’t include attached boots.
These boots have rubber or felt soles to prevent slipping on wet rocks. Paired with waders, they help in wade fishing. If you’re not in cold water, sturdy water shoes or sandals will work.
Ten and two. Ten and two. Ten and two. Ten and two. Ten and two. Ten and two. Ten and two.
Watch the tree. Ten and two. Ten and two.
CASTING
Fly fishing aims to deliver a nearly weightless fly to a spot on the water using the weight of the line. The fly rod bends (or “loads”) and straightens, transferring energy to the line, creating a loop that carries the fly to its target.
There are two parts to a fly cast: the “back cast” (moving the rod away from the target) and the “forward cast” (moving the rod toward the target). The casting arm provides the energy, gradually accelerating the rod until it stops abruptly, forming the loop. The rod tip should move in a straight line to ensure accuracy. a SIMPLE ca ST TO ST ar T w ITH IS THE “ PI c K UP , L a Y DO w N ” ca ST :
• Pull the desired length of fly line past the rod tip, laying it straight on the water.
• Stand facing your target with the rod tip low. Lift the rod slowly, accelerating until it points to the sky, then pause.
• Lower the rod slowly, building speed, and stop when the rod tip is at head height. The line will extend toward the target.
• Lower the rod tip to the water at the same speed as the falling line.
see more on our learning center
LEARN more on our WEBSITE
CONSERVATION MINDSET
THERE ARE
SIMPLE STEPS WE CAN TAKE:
Keep our fishing licenses up to date. The revenue supports enforcement, education, and fish stocking.
Avoid putting anything in the water that isn’t natural. Clean up after ourselves and prevent invasive species.
As fly anglers, it’s crucial for us to protect the places we fish and the fish we pursue.
Follow local regulations, like cleaning gear to prevent spreading harmful materials.
Handle fish carefully, minimizing time out of the water and keeping hands wet.
Support conservation organizations like FFI and Trout Unlimited.
The
good news is,
there
are plenty of great places to fish nearby, like local ponds, beaches, and streams.
You don’t have to travel far to enjoy fly fishing; fish live almost everywhere! You can start by checking out resources such as local clubs, fly shops, and state fish and game websites. Local knowledge from fishing buddies or blogs can also be very helpful.
A good way to start is by deciding which fish species you want to catch. This helps you narrow down where to go—like warm water spots for largemouth bass in ponds or lakes, cold water rivers and streams for trout, or marshes for redfish.
YOU DON’T HAVE TO GO FAR!
Before your fishing trip, it’s helpful to practice casting. You can do this in local parks, fields, or even on tennis or basketball courts to get ready before heading to the water.
Fish are efficient in conserving energy. They aim to get the most energy while using the least. This behavior helps us locate where fish are likely to be.
FISH BEHAVIOR
DING
“Reading a river” means observing its features to find fish. Applying this fish behavior rule, we might look for slower currents near faster ones where food collects.
In saltwater, this could mean finding estuary outflows where prey accumulates at tide junctions.
Fish also seek safety in deep water or under structures to hide from predators. To find fish, think like one and consider where they would hide from their predators.
To find fish, think like one.
Something for everyone to enjoy.
COMMUNITY, MENTORSHIP, & SKILL DEVELOPMENT
see more on our learning center
Fly fishing can be whatever you want it to be. Whether you’re starting out with the basics of gear, techniques, species, and locations, or pursuing it as a lifelong passion, the sport offers something for everyone to enjoy.
One of the best aspects of fly fishing is its community. Most fly anglers are generous and share a common passion. Organizations like FFI are dedicated to educating and supporting fly anglers worldwide. The FFI Learning Center is a valuable resource where anglers can learn more about all aspects of fly fishing.
FFI clubs and councils provide opportunities to meet other anglers, join trips or casting lessons, and learn about local fishing spots and target species. Fly shops are also great places to connect with anglers, get advice on gear and flies, and participate in workshops and fishing trips, both near and far.
