Ammarnäs: Where the Road to Great Fishing Begins

Ammarnäs: Where the Road to Great Fishing Begins

The village of Ammarnäs is situated in the western part of Swedish Lapland, in Northern Sweden. Depending on the season, it is home to around 100-200 people. Ammarnäs proudly bears the slogan, “Where the road begins,” and a glance at the map explains why: only one road leads to or from the village. Travelers arriving by car or bus can make a pit stop in the slightly larger town of Sorsele, where they can visit the Hook and Cup Sorsele Visitor Center. Here, knowledgeable staff can guide you on fly fishing, and you can browse through a quaint shop stocked with fishing gear, enjoy a cup of coffee at the café, or explore the museum. From Sorsele, it’s just a scenic 90-kilometer drive to Ammarnäs, a paradise for brown trout enthusiasts.

By Mikael Lindström

Images by Mikael Lindström, Henrik Kure, Peter Schmitt, and Morten Valeur

first visited Ammarnäs nearly 20 years ago and instantly fell in love with the area, not only for its excellent fishing opportunities but also for its breathtaking natural beauty. Having cherished outdoor activities since childhood, particularly fly fishing, Ammarnäs offers a plethora of activities such as hiking, mushroom and cloudberry picking, birdwatching, horseback riding in the mountains on Icelandic horses, as well as downhill and cross-country skiing in the winter. And if you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the mesmerizing Northern Lights, the Aurora Borealis.

Ammarnäs is a haven for nature enthusiasts, boasting one of the world’s most renowned hiking trails, the Kungsleden, which stretches over 450 kilometers between Abisko to the north and Grövelsjön in Dalarna to the south. Established by Svenska Turistföreningen at the turn of the 20th century, this trail passes right through Ammarnäs. After years of fishing in various waters across Sweden and abroad, I can confidently say that the Kraddsele and Ammarnäs area offers an unparalleled fishing experience, with a diverse range of waters and impressive populations of grayling and trout.

Besides the exceptional fishing opportunities, Ammarnäs also charms visitors with its stunning surroundings, welcoming locals, and convenient amenities. The village features a well-stocked grocery store catering to almost every need, while the Ammarnäs Guide Center boasts a bistro and restaurant serving delicious local cuisine, along with a fully equipped fishing shop. Whether you’re clad in waders or not, you can indulge in local delicacies such as

Suovasburger with reindeer meat or a Fisherman’s Pasta, or opt for a vegetarian dish. Additionally, visitors can enjoy a ski slope with a restaurant and a camping site within the village. A visit to Anders Skum Fjällvilt offers the opportunity to purchase local Sami delicacies, or simply refuel your vehicle at the village’s small gas station.

Ammarnäs is perhaps best known for its “Potato Hill,” where locals cultivate Mandel potatoes on the steep south slope. For fishing enthusiasts, the area is renowned for the migratory Ammarnäs trout, a unique species that embarks on a journey upstream from Lake Storvindeln to its spawning grounds in the Vindel River between Storvindeln and Lake Gautsträsk. Additionally, some Ammarnäs trout migrate upstream in the small Tjulån creek from Gautsträsk to spawn in the Vindel River.

What sets this fishing area apart for me is the opportunity to purchase a fishing license for Ammarnäs FVO, granting access to three distinct types of streams. The charming Tjulån creek, running through the village, offers excellent spots for grayling, Ammarnäs trout, and lake trout fishing. Its accessibility and relative protection from wind make it a favorite among anglers. Further downstream, the Sjöforsen Special Stretch provides a premium fishing experience, limiting daily rod permits and allowing only fly fishing and catch-andrelease practices. Here, many fly fishermen have achieved personal bests with grayling and encountered large Ammarnäs trout or lake trout for the first time.

The Ammarnäs FVO license extends from Guordisbäcken down to just above Järnforsen, encompassing a variety of pools, pockets, and rapids where the Ammarnäs trout can be found resting during their migration along the Vindel River. While fishing from a boat or using personal boats or belly boats is prohibited, a boat can be booked at Ottosmoraselet to access the opposite side of the river. The area offers excellent grayling fishing, particularly during significant hatches, when larger Ammarnäs trout may rise to dry flies.

The fishing opportunities around Ammarnäs are diverse, with options ranging from mountain lakes to small creeks and expansive slow waters along the upper Vindel River. Twenty kilometers downstream from Ammarnäs, the Kraddsele SFF provides additional excellent spots for trout and grayling fishing, with Emils Fiske camping serving as a convenient hub for information and accommodations.In addition to its trout and grayling fishing, Kraddsele SFF offers designated stretches for pike fishing, both upstream from the village in Kraddselet and at other limited stretches such as Järnforsen and Övre Forsen, where fly fishing and catch-and-release policies are enforced.

As a testament to the quality of fishing in the area, the average weight and length of reported Ammarnäs trout during the last season in 2023 were 67 centimeters and 3.4 kilograms, respectively. My personal best grayling, measuring 65 centimeters, was

caught above Järnforsen during trout fishing, albeit on a small grey Squirrel zonker. To sum up, the fishing opportunities in the Ammarnäs and Kraddsele areas offer a wealth of experiences for anglers, from challenging stretches to serene mountain streams, ensuring a memorable and rewarding fishing trip.

Ammarnäs Guide Center

I’ve had the privilege of working as a guide for the Ammarnäs Guide Center over the past two seasons, and I must say it has been the most fulfilling summer job of my life so far. My longtime friend and the owner of the Guide Center, Peter Schmitt, approached me a couple of years ago with the offer to join his team. He convincingly outlined how my extensive experience and knowledge of fishing in the Ammarnäs waters would be a perfect fit for the guiding role. Moreover, he expressed the need for an additional guide to allow him more time to manage the restaurant. With a break from my regular work, everything fell into place, and I had the opportunity to spend 2.5 months guiding during the fishing season in Ammarnäs.

Peter is not only a skilled fly fisherman but also a savvy entrepreneur who relocated to Ammarnäs from Gothenburg primarily for the fishing opportunities. In addition to managing the Guide Center, which includes a restaurant, bistro, and fishing shop, he is also involved in mountain rescue operations alongside his Labrador companion, “Fly.” Peter collaborates with the Vindel Mountains Sami Center and the County Board in Västerbotten to facilitate fishing and hunting permits. The Guide Center also offers the option to rent apartments on the upper floor or cabins scattered around Ammarnäs.

The activities offered by the Guide Center go beyond standard guiding services. In collaboration with the Vindel Mountains Sami Center and depending on the availability of fishing licenses and days granted by the County Board, Peter organizes guided trips using Fjällflygarna helicopters to remote mountain waters such as the pristine Mankeforsen, Laiva Creek, and Ältsån.

These exclusive trips include helicopter transport, a guide, fishing licenses, meals, and accommodation. Fly fishing is the sole method allowed, with a strict catch-andrelease policy. These excursions have proven immensely popular, offering unforgettable experiences, particularly the dry fly fishing for trout and Arctic char.

Each guiding or helicopter trip begins at the Ammarnäs Guide Center in the morning, where guests gather for coffee, obtain their licenses, and discuss their preferences for the day’s fishing. Based on water conditions, weather, and client preferences, the itinerary is tailored to maximize the experience. For instance, the journey to Mankeforsen begins with a helicopter ride from Fjällflygarna, departing from the Biergenis “Airport,” a simple gravel field with a fuel tank. After a breathtaking 10-minute flight following the upper Vindel River, guests arrive at their base for the next two days, the Mankeforsen cabin, nestled by the water’s edge.

The crystal-clear river reveals every rock and deep pool as it flows into the lower Framakselet. It’s a magical sight from above, and as we prepare to land, I make mental notes of the prime fishing spots. A small island sits in the middle of the river, with currents swirling around its edges. Just upstream from the cabin, a shallow stretch allows for easy wading to the opposite bank, where trout can be spotted cruising in the clear water, offering thrilling sight-fishing opportunities.

Laivabäcken

A mere 15-minute helicopter flight from Biergenis unveils the picturesque tent camp nestled atop a gentle hill, surrounded by the meandering beauty of Laiva Creek. This Sami exceptional water in the heart of the Ammarnäs mountains offers anglers a rare opportunity to fish in pristine, gin-clear streams for trout. Laiva Creek originates from Lake Laiva, winding its way through the valley down to Lake Tärna. Midway, the minor creek, Skivbäcken, merges into Laiva Creek, creating prime fishing grounds where the two waterways converge. The excursion entails plenty of walking and stealthy maneuvering, navigating the clear waters and dense foliage. Our accommodations consist of a cozy tent camp complete with wooden stoves and comfortable tent beds, where every meal is lovingly prepared over an open fire.

Ältsån

Venturing slightly farther afield with a helicopter journey from Biergenis, we arrive at the serene shores of Lower Ältsvattnet, where Ältsån Creek begins its journey to Lake Tärna. Our tent camp awaits amidst nature’s embrace, equipped with wood-burning stoves for warmth and hearty meals cooked over open flames. Positioned a short distance downstream from the creek’s inception, this is a haven for anglers seeking the thrill of catching both sizable trout and Arctic char in the crystal-clear waters. However, navigating this unique stream presents its own set of challenges, as the easily startled trout and Arctic char require a cautious approach and impeccable stealth.