ISSUE 05 SUMMER 2018
GOOdspeed THE TRADEWIND MAGAZINE
INSIDE
HOOK, LINE & SINKER FISHING NANTUCKET’S SHOALS
ANGUILLA RISING
ANGUILLA STRONGER’S SWEET SUCCESS
SURF’S UP
“SLURPEE WAVE” PHOTOGRAPHER JONATHAN NIMERFROH
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
September Skies I like to think I don’t have a favorite season—each one has too many merits for me to have a clear preference. So I’ve decided that a hybrid season is actually my favorite. It’s known as Indian Summer, and though clearly not an actual season but more of a weatherrelated term, I’m claiming it anyway as my own favorite season, and I don’t think I’d be alone among others who are similarly relaxed with terminology. Indian Summer begins in August and goes through October (and it’s not a coincidence that so does this issue’s shelf life). Up in the Northeast, those months, particularly when the weather cooperates, are the best. Just ask any Nantucketer if they prefer September over July and they’ll say absolutely. This is certainly the unanimous response of the local fishermen, like Captains Cam and Danno of Bill Fisher Outfitters, who relish the fall months for their diverse bounty and crisp sunny days. For those in the gardens, like Noli Taylor of Island
Grown Schools, these months bring the kids back to the classroom and the fruits of the summer’s harvest to fill their plates again. For those in the islands it’s a precarious time, filled with trepidation for hurricane season. Of course this fall, just a year after the damaging hurricanes of Maria, Irma and Jose and with many areas still under repair, tension and anxiety are high. However, if ever you’re in need of inspiration or a reminder of the restorative nature of faith, I implore you to visit Anguilla and witness firsthand the energy on the ground of the Anguilla Stronger aid operation. Smiles fill the faces of those helping others, and the community is as rich as it ever was, unified in its reconstruction. I am hopeful that this year will be better than last, and that is largely because the people I met down in Anguilla in May are hopeful too. For me, end of summer will always be precious. Maybe that’s because I can still recall the giddiness of those final days of freedom before school started. Or maybe it’s just that the evening light in September is especially illuminating. But the reason doesn’t really matter. Ultimately, it’s the perfectly blended cocktail. MEG NOLAN | mnolan@flytradewind.com | @megnolanvr
LETTER FROM THE FOUNDERS
FALL FOCUS As we round the midsummer point, our focus begins to turn to the upcoming winter season in the Caribbean. We are thrilled to see the amazing progress and hotel re-opening announcements from our friends in Anguilla, St. Barths, Nevis and Puerto Rico. We expect close to 100% recovery this coming season. It’s been a very tough year for many in the region, and it’s time to show our support the best way we can—by visiting! Note our list of hotel openings on page 43.
Photo: Christian Oth
In the meantime, make the best of those lazy summer days! ERIC ZIPKIN | ezipkin@flytradewind.com DAVID ZIPKIN | dzipkin@flytradewind.com
FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM
@goodspeedmag and @flytradewind
DESTINATION LEGEND:
ACK = NANTUCKET
ANU = ANTIGUA
AXA = ANGUILLA
MVY = MARTHA’S VINEYARD
NEV = NEVIS
SBH = ST. BARTHS
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HPN = WESTCHESTER STT
= ST. THOMAS
MVL = STOWE, VT TEB = TETERBORO
ISSUE 05 SUMMER 2018
GOOdspeed Photo: JDN Photography
THE TRADEWIND MAGAZINE
TabLE of COntents
Flight Plan
Control Tower
4 T H E L AT E S T A N D G R E AT E S T IN OUR EIGHT DISTINCT D E S T I N AT I O N S ......................... 4 Puerto Rico’s Ritz Carlton Reserve reopens post-hurricane, Stowe Cider, top carry-on bags and funky gems for the end of summer
The Hangar
16
28
N O L I TAY L O R .......................... 16
FISH TALES............................... 28
Martha’s Vineyard’s Mother Earth
The ins and outs of fishing on Nantucket from local favorites, Captains Cam and Danno
J O N AT H A N N I M E R F R O H ....... 20 Nantucket’s Surf Guru and Photographer
ANGUI LLA RI SI NG................... 38 Checking in on Starwood Capital’s Anguilla Stronger charity and its impressive impact
In Every Issue C A L E N D A R .............................. 14
V E C T O R ................................... 42
Not-to-miss events in our destinations
Tradewind’s routes and current happenings
H I D D E N H AV E N S .................... 26
S U N D O W N E R S ........................ 44
Fort George on Monk’s Hill, Antigua
Where to best toast the sunset
Goodspeed magazine is published quarterly in partnership between Meg Nolan, Will Attend LLC and Tradewind Aviation. | EDITOR: Meg Nolan DESIGN: Ann Zipkin | ann-design | AD SALES: advertising@flytradewind.com | ON THE COVER: Photography by Sean Burke SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 3
DoRADO’S BACK PUERTO RICO’S ICONIC PROPERTY REOPENS
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FLIGHT PLAN
SJU
Puerto Rico’s Iconic Luxury Property Reopens 11 Months after the Devastation of Hurricane Maria ARGUABLY PUERTO RICO’S MOST ELEGANT RESORT ,
Dorado Beach, a Ritz Carlton Reserve, has announced it will reopen its doors on October 1, having rebuilt and refurbished after devastating Hurricane Maria shuttered their doors last fall. The upgrades include a full modernization of the Su Casa five-bedroom villa, a reimagined restaurant concept and a new omakase and ceviche bar. The guest rooms will feature handcrafted touches and a new color palette, while the substantial manicured grounds will see the addition of more than 300,000 new flora. The Spa Botanico will also offer a new, refreshed look with a locally inspired treatment menu and new spa cuisine concept. “We are looking forward to welcoming everyone back to Dorado Beach,” announced George Sotelo, general manager at Dorado Beach. “October 2018 marks an exciting next chapter in the legendary history of our Reserve. I am extraordinarily proud of our ladies and gentlemen, who have lovingly restored our treasured property.” VISIT
www.ritzcarlton.com
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 5
FLIGHT PLAN
CIDER HOUSE RULES THE OTHER BEER IN STOWE
Founded in 2013, Stowe Cider is the brainchild of Mark Ray, a Stowe resident and longtime cider maker. FOUR YEARS INTO THE BUSINESS , demand grew to the point
where a new space was required to handle the considerable ramp up in production. Producing 100,000 gallons of cider in 2017 (that’s roughly 4.2 million apples!), Stowe Cider was a hit. With eight employees and distribution in Vermont, New York, Massachusetts, Maine, Connecticut, New Jersey and Washington, DC, Stowe Cider is projected to produce 175,000 gallons this year. For Mark, it’s about working with the land. “It’s really nice to turn a local-sustainable product into something people enjoy,” he says. Stowe Cider offers three core ciders, four seasonal ciders and over 20 limited-edition releases. And those watching their calories will be pleased to note that because it is dry and uses only locally sourced, less processed ingredients, Stowe Cider contains lower amounts of sugar than other ciders. Sounds sweet to us. LEARN MORE
stowecider.com
PAGE 6 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE
MVL
FLIGHT PLAN
HPN
EAR CANDY Every once in a while a designer’s flight of fancy is so spot-on and resonates so completely with an audience that an entire business can be born.
(Maggie) Gavigan Smith, the creator behind New York’s label Mignonne Gavigan, who took an extra piece of a beaded vintage gown, tied it around her neck and wore it home from work one day as a hybrid scarf-necklace. Since that fateful gesture, the scarf-necklace has been a popular accessory for fashion plates around the globe, and in 2014, Mignonne developed her own line of accessories and jewelry. The line can be found at Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Anthropologie as well as online. We are particular fans of her recent summer collection with whimsical designs featuring watermelons and parrots using her trademark beading and attention to detail. SUCH IS THE CASE WITH DESIGNER MIGNONNE
LEARN MORE AT
mignonnegavigan.com
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 7
FLIGHT PLAN
SBH
A FAMILY AFFAIR
Swim and Beachwear from St. Barths’ MACKEENE launched MACKEENE, a luxury swimwear brand based in St. Barths, where brother Rodolphe, a professional kitesurfer, lives year-round. This summer MACKEENE opened its first pop-up store in Paris, where the brother with the fashion design expertise, Harold, makes his home. IN 2006, BROTHERS HAROLD AND RODOLPHE MACKEENE
The name MACKEENE is well known on St. Barths. Pierre MacKeene, the brothers’ grandfather, was instrumental in helping to develop the island’s original runway and paving the first roads in St. Barths in the 1950s alongside his fellow pilot and friend, Rémy de Haenen. Their aunt, Cat MacKeene, also a St. Barths local, is the proprietor of the popular restaurant Tamarin in Saline Beach. Clearly established on the island, not to mention with a fair share of entrepreneurial spirit in their blood, it was ideal for the two brothers to combine their passion for water sports and luxury styling to create a signature men’s swimsuit line and fashion brand befitting the island and its origins. The swimsuits, which retail for 135 euro, are designed by Harold and manufactured in Spain. They come in an array of colors and water-repellent fabrics, though the defining feature is the patented magnetic snap closure, allowing a comfortable fit alongside a modern and stylish design. The
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latest summer collection was inspired by Japan and includes a new interior belt. A full premium beachwear brand, MACKEENE also offers accessories such as bath towels, polo shirts, henleys, T-shirts, surfboards, watches, sunglasses and portable coffee makers—catering to the whole St. Barths lifestyle. And if you can’t get to their store on St. Barths, the website allows for online purchasing, and their products are set to be in over 50 stores globally by the end of the year. LEARN MORE
www.mackeene.com
More than real estate, we share the best of Nantucket with you
Market Insights
Nantucket Neighborhoods
Main Street Web Cam
Daily photos of Nantucket’s beautiful homes
Monthly & annual real estate reports
Fisher’s videos offer guided area tours
Filming Main Street 365 days a year!
Nantucket Guide
Construction Blogs
Weekly Fishing Report
Kids Activities
Insider’s guide to the island
What to expect when building on island
The latest news reeled in
Where to go and what to do
(508) 228–4407 21 Main Street, Nantucket, MA #fishernantucket @fishernantucket
FLIGHT PLAN
CARRY ON, SIR
Goodspeed’s Picks for the Perfect Men’s Weekend Bag
1
Photo: Christian Oth
2
4
3
5
1 2 3
TravelTeq Weekender Inside Out
$395 | TRAVELTEQ.COM
Shinola Large Carryall
$1,295 | SHINOLA.COM
Patagonia Black Hole 45L Duffel $119 | PATAGONIA.COM
4 5 6 7
L ouis Vuitton, Keepall Bandoulière 45 $3,300 | US.LOUISVUITTON.COM
Filson Large Dry Duffle $250 | FILSON.COM
Frost River Flight Bag
6
$190 | FROSTRIVER.COM
7
Trask Jackson Duffle $625 | TRASK.COM
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 11
FLIGHT PLAN
Tugboat Time
ACK
NANTUCKET TUG COMPANY
As launch captain for the past two years on Nantucket Harbor and USCG Certified for the past decade, it’s safe to say Tim Feeney knows not just Nantucket’s waters, but also his way around boats and those who love them. So when he and his business partner, Jonas Baker, owner of island-favorite harborside restaurant Slip 14, came across the custom Crosby tugboat Gertrude on the Chesapeake Bay, he saw an opportunity to fill a gap—a gap he recognized daily from the people who rode his launch, often in pursuit of nothing more than a harbor tour. NOW, WITH GERTRUDE SPIFFED UP and fully outfitted with speakers, a small galley kitchen and nautically preppy throw pillows, Tim’s harbor tour just got that much better. Leaving from the same dock as his launch service, Waypoint Marine Service, located right behind the Straight Wharf Restaurant next to Stars Ice Cream, Gertrude is available for twice-daily private harbor cruises for up to six people with catering provided by Slip 14 and partnerships with local beverage companies Champy Champagne and Cisco Brewers. With both late morning (11:30 a.m.) and sunset cruise (6 p.m.) offerings, Nantucket Tug Company caters to Nantucket’s discerning audience, forever eager to experience something both undeniably charming and uniquely exclusive (and yes, unquestionably Instagram-worthy). Both Tim and Jonas work with the client to design either the brunch or early-evening menu of light bites as well as a desired playlist of music, ensuring the cruise is completely custom. Charter cruises start at $1,200 for six guests and include catering, select beverages and gratuity. Rates drop to $800 after September 10 with evening cruises leaving earlier at 4:30 p.m. LEARN MORE AT
www.nantuckettugcompany.com
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MAKE SURE TO take
advantage of Jonas Baker’s impressive culinary chops and order something custom.
It’s time we talked. All across America, people are gathering in living rooms to talk. Not about trivial stuff. But about what really matters. Some call this a movement. We call it The Neighborhood Project.
powered by
theneighborhoodproject.com SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 13
CALENDAR
AUGUST 1–15
SBH
St. Barths Tennis Open
6–7
ANU
Antigua Carnival
8
10–12
11
MVY An Evening with David Sedaris MVL Annual 12-Metre Regatta
ACK
Boston Pops Concert
11–19
MVY Chilmark Road Race
ACK
Nantucket Race Week
13 15
17
MVY Toots & the Maytals MVY Grand Illumination Night, Oak Bluffs MVY
Oak Bluffs Fireworks
19
ACK
SEPTEMBER 6–8
Opera House Cup
24
SBH
Festival of St. Barthélemy
25
MVL The Champlain Valley Fair
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9/9– 10/13 13–16
NEV Nevis Marathon & Running Festival MVL
Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby ACK
The Nantucket Project
OCTOBER 5–7 5–13
6
MVL Foliage Arts Festival ANU ABCA Sports Tourism Tri 20 Cricket Tournament
ACK
Cranberry Festival
18–21
MVY Martha’s Vineyard Food & Wine Festival SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 15
FOOD ~for~
Thought C H AT T I N G W I T H N O L I TAY L O R O F M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D ’ S I S L A N D GROWN SCHOOLS PROGRAM
Ever since graduating Haverford in 1999, Noli Taylor has put her dual degrees in urban studies and environmental science to excellent utilitarian use. She has spent her entire career in environmental and agricultural advocacy, organizing with nonprofits and community groups across the country, from Kauai to Philadelphia. She got her start in agriculture issues in Hawaii, organizing around genetic engineering and community food security, which ultimately led her to launch the Island Grown Schools (IGS) Program in 2007. We caught up with Noli to learn more about her, as well as IGS and its commendable actions on Martha’s Vineyard.
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C O N T R O L T O W E R | N O L I TAY L O R , I S L A N D G R O W N S C H O O L S
What led you to start Island Grown Schools? We know that the food system we have now isn’t working. It isn’t working for public health or for our kids, when one in five American children faces food insecurity, and one in six is overweight or obese. It isn’t working for the environment, when the way we produce food is one of the biggest contributors to climate change, water pollution, air pollution and land degradation. Fixing the problems with the way we’re growing, transporting, eating and throwing away food is not going to be easy; it is going to take a generational shift. How better to help our kids overcome the problems with our current food system and chart a course for the future than to give them the skills and tools they need to make healthy eating choices and learn to grow food at school? This is what drew me to want to start Island Grown Schools, and what keeps me motivated and inspired every day still, almost 12 years after we began.
and grow into beautiful new plants that provide them and their classmates with food. It is the restoration of a connection to the world around them, and there is a deep joy found there. It’s hard to measure the impact of these changes, what they do for the children and for their families and for their schools, but you can’t miss the impact when you see it for yourself.
What’s the most basic lesson of IGS? I think that many of the problems we’re facing in our communities and environment stem from a disconnection between people and the land and waters around us, a breakdown in the relationship between humans and the plants and animals that sustain us. Helping children get outside, interact with the natural world, nurture plants, watch them grow, get to know what good soil feels like and smells like and what real, fresh food right out of the ground tastes like feels like a simple but powerful way to start rebuilding that connection.
Where have you seen the biggest impact from IGS?
What are the challenges for IGS?
We see so many wonderful impacts from this programming. We see kids who swear they won’t eat vegetables eating fresh kale, herbs, sorrel and tomatoes right out of the garden. We hear kids talking to their parents in the grocery store: “Why buy that lettuce from California, Mommy, when Farmer Simon’s lettuce is so much better?” We see kids who struggle in the classroom shining and being real leaders in the garden, when they’re able to learn outside in a hands-on way. We see teachers feeling relieved and grateful that their students are able to learn their required subjects in a way that feels relevant, exciting and interesting to them and in a way that they’ll remember. We see cafeterias serving locally grown food all through the school year and children eagerly eating it up. We also have been able to help mentor other communities across the country and beyond as they start their own farm-to-school programs. Our curriculum toolkit is used widely by teachers and school gardeners across the country. Programs we’ve been able to pilot on the Vineyard have sprouted wings and taken off in other cities and towns far beyond our shores, like our Harvest of the Month program.
There are a number of challenges to getting a farm-to-school program off the ground. In terms of school gardens, teachers are already stretched in so many directions. They have a great deal of pressure to help students perform well on standardized tests, they have a huge amount of curriculum they need to deliver each year, and it can be hard to find extra time in the day to fit in any new or different activities. This is why we’ve connected all of our IGS core lessons to the teaching frameworks, so time in the garden can still be considered “time on task” while helping students thrive who learn best outside a classroom environment and teaching life lessons about healthy food, connection to nature and nutrition.
How do you best measure your impact?
On the cafeteria side, there are lots of possible challenges to bringing healthy, local food into school meals. Many schools do not have the facilities to do scratch cooking on site or have staff in their
We love to see the wonder in children of all ages when they plant the seeds they saved from their garden and watch them sprout
We’ve also seen many communities where a dedicated teacher or parent has gotten a school garden started at their school, and then that teacher has retired or that parent’s children have moved on to another school, and the garden falls into disrepair. This is why we feel that funding positions for garden educators is key to creating a long-term, sustainable school garden program. You have to fund the people.
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 17
C O N T R O L T O W E R | N O L I TAY L O R , I S L A N D G R O W N S C H O O L S
We bring garden-based learning, healthy locally grown food and hands-on farm experiences to almost every school-aged child in our community. We have installed and help maintain 15 school gardens and have led over 2,000 classroom lessons and more than 200 farm field trips. kitchens that are trained to do healthy, seasonal or whole foodsbased cooking. Cafeteria staff also have incredibly challenging jobs and are usually underpaid for the work they do. Schools usually have strictly limited budgets devoted to school food and usually want these programs to pay for themselves, which is just about impossible if you want to serve high-quality food to students. It’s critically important for schools to prioritize funding for healthy, tasty food in school meals and to receive public funding support to do so. Other states have passed legislation that funds increased per-meal reimbursement for schools that serve locally grown food in school meals, boosting the amount of healthy food available to students and supporting local farmers and the agricultural economy. We are hoping Massachusetts can follow these other states’ leads. Parents and community members can also advocate for sufficient funding for quality food programs with their school administrators and
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school committees and in town meetings when school budgets are being discussed.
What’s been the biggest hit with the children? I believe that there is wonder in all of us, especially accessible to children, in seeing the cycles of nature at work. Seeds themselves are such miracles—that something so tiny can hold all the information to grow a whole plant that will in turn produce an exponentially greater amount of seeds. Soil is amazing too—in every handful of healthy soil there are more living organisms than there are people on planet Earth, more than 10 billion organisms. And when kids get to witness the wonder of living things, we can see it light up something inside them that has been waiting, a return of a relationship between us and the life around us that sustains us. This is the biggest hit in lots of special ways.
What are the 5-year, 10-year and 20-year plans? 5-YEAR:
Continue integrating IGS programming at all grade levels, especially with middle and high school students.
10-YEAR: 15-YEAR:
Help schools embrace food and nutrition education as core parts of their curriculum. Build greater state-level support for farm-to-school programs across Massachusetts.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
www.islandgrownschools.org
A celebration of sea, farm & vine October 17-21, 2018 • mvfoodandwine.com
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 19
Aquatic THE LIFE
J O N AT H A N N I M E R F R O H O F J D N P H O T O G R A P H Y
Nantucket artist and photographer Jonathan Nimerfroh is a bona fide ocean lover. No matter the season, he spends the majority of his time at the beach, either admiring or surfing the ocean’s waves and collecting treasures. His photographs of Nantucket’s icy winter waves, dubbed the “slurpee waves,” are a viral sensation. His profound love for adventure and immense talent have led Jonathan and his camera to exotic locales like Namibia and the shorelines of Costa Rica, the Bahamas and California. The owner and founder of JDN PHOTOGRAPHY, Runaway Bride Nantucket and Wampanoag Riders, Jonathan is no slouch either. Currently, his work is exhibited at Samuel Owen Gallery in Nantucket and Greenwich, CT. Huge admirers of his work, Goodspeed caught up with the intrepid cameraman, hoping a bit of his adventurous spirit would rub off on us.
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C O N T R O L T O W E R | J O N AT H A N N I M E R F R O H
How did you get into photography? Growing up I would shoot photos of my friends’ bands. I took one photo class my freshman year of college. But it wasn’t until I graduated college that I took it seriously and took a job as a fulltime photojournalist, which I did at a newspaper for 10 years.
Which love was first: surfing or photography? Surfing. I bought my first surfboard when I was 12.
Your photos of the slurpee waves are iconic—globally known at this point—and such a gorgeous marvel. What was going through your head as you were capturing them for the first time (2016, right?) and then again this past year? The slurpee wave photos were taken on February 20, 2015, during my daily surf check. When I pulled up to the beach I could see that the horizon just looked strange. When I got to the top of the dunes, I saw that about 300 yards away from the shoreline the ocean was starting to freeze. The high temp that day was around 19 degrees. The wind was howling from the southwest, which would typically make rough or choppy conditions, not ideal for surfing, but since the surface of the sea was frozen slush, the wind did not change the shape. What resulted were perfect, dreamy, slushy waves. Most waves were around two feet with some larger sets slushing through around three feet or waist-high. What an experience to be absolutely freezing on the beach watching these roll in while in my mind, I surfed them! I wonder if a shaper can make me a specially designed slurfboard? The next day I drove up to see if they had melted, but around that same 300 yards away from shoreline the water had now frozen solid and there were no waves at all. I’ve been asking all the fishermen and surfers I know if they have ever seen such a thing, and they have all reported that this is a first, a result of it being the coldest winter
we’ve had in 81 years. I guess the people I asked weren’t old enough to remember a colder winter than this!
You’ve been doing commercial jobs now for many years. What makes you say yes to a client versus no? I say yes to anyone that’s willing to have fun and trust my style to turn in the best photos I can.
Where on Nantucket is your favorite spot (or one of your favorite spots) to shoot? Anywhere along the south shore on Nantucket. Perfect sunsets and waves in the last light.
If you didn’t live on Nantucket, where would you live? Tofino, Canada
What kind of camera do you use? Canon Mark IV and Aquatech Water Housing
What’s been one of the proudest moments (or the proudest moment) in your career that you’ve had thus far? Getting a check from Rolling Stone Magazine in 2006. Next best would be not taking photos one morning in San Diego so I could surf with Skip Frye.
What’s on the horizon? Collaborating with more brands.
Where can your work be found on and off island? Samuel Owen Gallery, Nantucket Salt and Howler Brothers Retail Shop in Austin, TX
If you could shoot the same thing every day for three months, what would it be? Fish tacos CHECK JONATHAN OUT
www.jdnphotography.com
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 21
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C O N T R O L T O W E R | J O N AT H A N N I M E R F R O H
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 23
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HIDDEN HAVENS FORT GEORGE ON MONK’S HILL, ANTIGUA
One of Antigua’s lesser-known hikes, though not because it’s particularly challenging (less than 700 meters), Monk’s Hill and her crumbling ruins of Fort George offer sweeping views over both Falmouth and English harbours. Just three kilometers from Falmouth, the trail takes you up a bramble-filled hillside, past crumbling perimeter walls, a graveyard and finally to the paved track of the ancient fort’s main gate. An important defensive post for Antigua, Fort George was built in the late 17th century, offering protection over Falmouth Harbour. The long view, of course, remains, and the tranquility found underneath the stone archway overlooking the boats below makes it an ideal haven, deliciously bereft of many visitors.
Entrance to Great Fort George on Monk’s Hill in Antigua.
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SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 27
FISH
TALES
Wetting Our Lines with Nantucket Fishing Captains Danno Lynch and Cam Gammill of Bill Fisher Outfitters
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THE HANGAR | NANTUCKET FISHING GUIDE
Given Nantucket’s prosperous history as a whaling capital, it seems only fitting that her waters continue to draw the passionate angler today. In fact, Nantucket’s fishery is one of the most plentiful in the Northeast and offers some of the most diverse fishing conditions anywhere in the world. From fly-fishing for striped bass to casting into the white water of the island’s many surrounding rips, there’s something for every type of angler. Nantucket boasts world-class fishing for striped bass, tuna, bluefish, false albacore, bonito and fluke. And, as a result, the fishing charter options on island are numerous. To help break down the who, what and where of fishing on Nantucket, we spoke to Captain Danno Lynch and Captain Cam Gammill of Bill Fisher Outfitters, an excellent charter operation offering clients a bevy of options and welcoming both the novice and the experienced angler alike. TO UNDERSTAND NANTUCKET’S SINGULAR FISHERIES ,
you must first understand Nantucket’s topography, explains Captain Danno. “Nantucket is surrounded by shoals, or shallow sandbars, and in Nantucket’s whaling past these shoals were devastating to ships with no GPS and a lack of wind,” says Danno. “When the ships lost the ability to sail, they often would be taken by the tide and slammed into the shoals, causing a shipwreck. What whalers feared, fishermen now seek.” Indeed, the depth changes dramatically in these shoal areas, sometimes from 70 feet to two feet; such is the case at Great Point Shoal, and it’s this dramatic change in depth that helps fishermen find the bait fish that species like striped bass, bluefish, false albacore and bonito eat. Captain Danno has been leading charters on Nantucket since 2009. His first fishing memory on the island is seeing his father catch a striper at sunset in Madaket. As he recalls, “The fish flopped in the sand and my dad’s smile was pure happiness. We walked it back to our rental on Hither Creek, threw it on the grill and feasted.” For Captain Danno, the Bonito Bar is his favorite area to fish, as it was the place where he caught his first fish ever from a boat, and he loves drifting there at sunset. “You feel like you are on the edge of the globe,” he says. Fishing on Nantucket for so many years is bound to produce some good stories. For Captain Danno, his most memorable happened two years
ago when he was drifting the south shore, about 250 yards off Ladies Beach, on a bluebird day. As he tells it, “We were hammering bluefish with clients. We must have caught 20 fish already and at one point all three of my clients were tight on bluefish, one catching his first on the fly. The client on the fly pointed off the starboard stern and asked, ‘What is that?’ I was standing near the starboard wheel in the middle of the 30-foot boat. At first glance I saw a fin out of the water and thought it was an oceanic sunfish, which are common to see there. But as I panned the shadow that was attached to it, I found the nose and dorsal fin of a 15-foot Great White. It was the size of a car, just cruising right next to the boat close enough to touch. I turned the engine on, hoping to follow it, and with two swipes of its powerful tail it vanished. We spooked it, but all got to admire the apex predator.” According to Danno, September is the best time of year to fish on Nantucket. “The light is beautiful and the ocean is still warm. There is also an opportunity to catch the Nantucket Slam, which is catching three of the four main Nantucket species: bluefish, false albacore, striped bass and bonito.” He also notes that the false albacore come in September and, according to him, they are the most fun and exciting fish to chase and hook up. As he says, “The goal is to cast at the busting fish and, when you hook up, the line screams and the fish races through the water. And that’s always the recipe for a good time.”
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 29
“ I love when a client can experience something they’ve never experienced before. It’s not about catching the most fish; it’s about creating an experience.”
Captain Cam Gammill, who also owns Bill Fisher Tackle, Nantucket’s oldest tackle shop, has been a fishing guide for over 15 years. Similarly to Danno, he favors fishing in the fall season for the variety of fish and the relative calmness on the island after the summer rush. Captain Cam’s favorite spot to fish on Nantucket is Great Point, which in the fall “has a magical air about it, when time seems to stand still.” Plus you can catch bluefish, bass, bonito and albacore all from the beach, something he particularly appreciates. For Cam, the beauty of Nantucket is that you are 30 miles out to sea; “you generally get to enjoy and explore the world-class fishery without much pressure from others. And within a few miles of the marina, you can be hooked into any number of species.” Also, given the diversity of the fishery, the options change almost every week, offering something for everyone. “One day you can target bass on top of the water chasing squid in the rips. The next day you can target tuna 10 miles to the south of the island, and the following day you can be on world-class fluke to the east side of the island,” Captain Cam explains.
stop them from living together or sharing reports from their daily experiences. And, according to Cam, “This spirit is what brought the team together at Bill Fisher Outfitters.”
Nantucket’s Fisheries and Shoals Nantucket Shoals is an area of dangerously shallow water that extends eastward for 23 miles and southeastward for 40 miles; in places water depth can be as shallow as three feet. SOUTH: Miacomet Rip, which holds bait well EAST: Old Man Shoal and Bass Rip, which
Another thing that speaks to the specialness of Nantucket is the closeness among the fishermen on island. As Cam says, “One of the best parts about our fishery is the camaraderie amongst local fishermen. Unlike other locations, there is not a lot of competition for fish, so anglers will generally share a wealth of information with each other.” Captains Cam and Danno are perfect examples, having started as friends but originally working for different outfits. This fact didn’t
PAGE 30 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE
have been notorious magnets for massive surfing bluefish NORTH: Great Point WEST:
Madaket and the West End Rips
THE HANGAR | NANTUCKET FISHING GUIDE
Release or keep? CAPTAIN DANNO:
Unless I can make sure that someone can eat the fish and that none of the fish will be wasted, I will always release it. In the end, the tug is the drug and there is no need to keep killing fish you are not going to eat. You might as well save the fish to catch it again. CAPTAIN CAM:
I’m a big believer in releasing almost all the fish I catch. I rarely ever keep a game fish as we have seen a measurable decline in our fishery. It’s too important to protect the stock of fish for future anglers to enjoy. Having said this, I will keep game fish (tuna, bass and blues) when they won’t make it, and l will target bottom fish for dinner fare as stocks are in good shape and there is nothing like a fresh catch!
Captain Cam (L) and Captain Danno (R)
Top advice for anglers coming to Nantucket CAPTAIN DANNO:
Use a guide no matter how experienced of an angler you are. I am not trying to hype up my own knowledge and expertise, but Nantucket fishing is really dependent on tides and knowing the little nuances of the ocean. It is very hard to be successful if you don’t have someone teaching you the tricks of the trade. CAPTAIN CAM:
My best advice is to simply spend time on the water. Our fishery is so dynamic; any experience of angling can be successful. We have one of the best fisheries in the world. On any given day, you can catch five different species of saltwater fish in numbers that will blow people’s minds.
What’s the number one thing to bring with you on the charter? CAPTAIN DANNO:
The proper pair of shoes. Most clients think boat plus ocean equals flip-flops, but they are not used to being on a boat and how important it is to have the right footing. Some days it is hard to maintain your balance, so a good pair of boat shoes or sneakers is highly recommended.
What makes a charter successful? CAPTAIN DANNO:
Smiles. At the end of the day we are taking people fishing, not catching. So some days the fish are throwing themselves in the boat and others you really have to work for it. It is important to develop a fun relationship with the clients so that no matter how many fish you catch, you can always have a good time on the water. It’s something Cam can do better than anyone I have come across. CAPTAIN CAM:
It’s all about having a good time. I love when a client can experience something they’ve never experienced before. It’s not about catching the most fish; it’s about creating an experience.
What’s the best thing about fishing on Nantucket? CAPTAIN DANNO:
The people we get to fish with. I love how diverse the clientele is and, for every individual, Nantucket is a place that is near and dear to their heart. We are fortunate enough to build lasting memories that will help grow even more love for the island.
CAPTAIN CAM:
CAPTAIN CAM:
Always bring an extra layer. It’s colder on the water than people think, especially when we run a few miles offshore. Our air temps usually match our water temps, so be prepared.
I absolutely agree with Danno. I love the people we fish with. I consider most of my clients dear friends. We get to experience some amazing things together and will always have a connection beyond what most people understand.
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 31
THE HANGAR | NANTUCKET FISHING GUIDE
Decoding the Charter Options INSHORE:
Fishing water within casting distance of the shore, including the rips throughout the West End and various areas a few miles offshore, casting toward the shoreline. Nantucket is best known for excellent inshore fishing, like the striped bass and bonito found around Madaket or the false albacore in the rips. Fishing off the western shorelines of islands Tuckernuck and Muskeget offers an incredible opportunity to catch large fish just 50 yards from the shore. Due to sudden depth changes and currents, the shorelines at these islands are particularly fishy. This type of charter will have you in a boat, and you can use both spin and fly rods and light tackle. Typical charters are for four hours. OFFSHORE:
Nantucket’s offshore (also known as deepwater) offering is indeed top notch with tuna running east and south of the island as well as a recent resurgence of white marlin and everyone’s favorite predator, the mako shark. This type of charter is for six hours typically and will have you out in the open sea (often in rolling waves—cue the Dramamine). You will use both fly and spin rods as well as heavier trolling tackle. Do note that both charters are catch and release with the mako sharks. SURF CASTING:
Perhaps one of the more iconic images of Nantucket is watching the surf casters off Great Point as the bluefish run by. James Hatton of The Nantucket Surf Casting Co. offers beach-fishing charters complete with all the equipment. There are few greater pleasures than catching a striped bass or bluefish with your feet in the sand, according to Captain Cam.
PAGE 32 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE
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HAMMERHEAD HERO Elliot Sudal loves the water and, even more so, what’s swimming in it. Fascinated by fishing and marine life since he was a boy growing up on the Connecticut coast, Sudal has successfully turned his passion into his profession, aided by his daring, fun-loving nature and impressive physique. How else could he be personally responsible for the tagging of thousands of sharks in both Nantucket and Florida?
PAGE 34 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE
T H E H A N G A R | N A N T U C K E T A N D M A R T H A’ S V I N YA R D F I S H I N G G U I D E
As the founder of the Nantucket Shark Tagging Club and dubbed “The Shark Wrestler” after a video of him wrestling a hammerhead shark in Nantucket went viral a few years ago, Sudal isn’t shying away from anything that tempts him, least of all apex predators, and furthers the study and understanding of sharks. We caught up with him to learn more about him and his incredibly brave endeavors. W H AT I S I T A B O U T S H A R K S F O R Y O U ?
I’ve always been fascinated with sharks. It’s been exciting building a career around them . . . there is so much to learn. There are close to 500 species of sharks worldwide; eight of them frequent the waters around Nantucket. I enjoy the angling aspect as well as the research side, and it’s been really great being able to share that with the world. D O Y O U H AV E A N Y F E A R L E F T ?
Of course. After landing over a thousand sharks, you get a feel for how they move, but they are wild and unpredictable animals. Just the other day I was in the water with a big hammerhead and out of nowhere, a five-foot bull shark swam at me. I deal with many sketchy situations like that, and it would be naïve to think there’s no possibility of something going wrong, regardless of your abilities. Y O U ’ R E A M A R I N E L I F E G U Y — W H E N D I D T H AT S TA R T A N D W H AT F U E L E D I T ?
My father was an avid striped bass fisherman. I grew up in Connecticut and spent a lot of time at the shore. I’ve been obsessed with fishing my entire life. I went to school for biology, worked with the US Fish & Wildlife Service, got my captain’s license and traveled a ton just trying to figure out how to make a career out of it all. I lived on a boat in the Caribbean for a year, then spent four summers in Alaska before discovering Nantucket. About three weeks into living out here I had that viral video “wrestling a shark” out of the water. Lots of opportunities arose from that day, and I’ve been riding the wave for years now, learning everything there is to know about land-based shark fishing and tagging sharks.
tracking migration routes, growth patterns and reproductive habits. The more we learn, the better we can protect them. D O E S Y O U R FA M E A N D TA G A S “ T H E S H A R K W R E S T L E R ” A D D ANY PRESSURE, OR ARE YOU ABLE TO KEEP IT FUN?
I think I’m keeping it fun. I’m out fishing every day. The people I take out seem to really enjoy it, and it’s great fishing with people who are enthusiastic to learn more about sharks. W H AT ’ S T H E F U T U R E L O O K L I K E ?
Lots of exciting projects on the horizon. I have some stuff in the works with Shark Week, writing a book, working with some great brands, research grants, fishing shows, etc. Follow your dreams; sometimes it works out. W H AT I S I T A B O U T N A N T U C K E T T H AT Y O U L O V E S O M U C H ?
I don’t think there is a better place on the planet to spend a summer. It’s so beautiful, the people are interesting and the fishing is phenomenal. What more could you want?
W H AT M A K E S N A N T U C K E T S O P O P U L A R F O R S H A R K S ?
The Cape and islands are the northernmost extent of the sandbar sharks (Carcharhinus plumbeus) migration, and they hang out around here from June until September. These sharks feed on fish, skates, squid and crustaceans until heading south in the fall. The vast majority of sharks we tag on Nantucket are large females, 95% of them actually, and part of our research is trying to identify if they are coming here to reproduce. Sharks give live birth to small litters of pups, unlike fish which can lay millions of eggs a year. W H AT D O E S T H E TA G G I N G A L L O W Y O U G U Y S T O A C C O M P L I S H S P E C I F I C A L LY ?
The data from the tags I put on the sharks here goes back to the NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) Apex Predator Tagging Program. This is the longest ongoing shark study, over 60 years of data
O K AY, W E G O T TA A S K : H O W M U C H C A N Y O U B E N C H ?
I can bench about 300 now and try to hit the gym every day. It’s physically demanding hauling in giant sharks, so being fit is a necessity. I get pretty tan and shredded up by the end of the summer and really enjoy the gym. I just picked up a few workout sponsors actually: Steel Supplements and Rhone Apparel. I F Y O U W E R E N ’ T TA G G I N G S H A R K S , W H AT W O U L D Y O U B E DOING?
Probably working on a boat. I crewed on a 92-foot catamaran for a year in the Caribbean and it was so fun. There are plenty of cool gigs out there that involve fishing and traveling, but for now I’m going to focus on the sharks. FOLLOW ELLIOT
@acksharks on Instagram
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 35
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This offer is not directed to residents in any state in which a registration is required but in which registration requirements have not yet been met, including, but not limited to, New Jersey. Recreational features and amenities described herein are subject to change periodically. Warning: the California Department of Real Estate has not examined this offering, including, but not limited to, the condition of title, the status of blanket liens on the project (if any), arrangements to assure project completion, escrow practices, control over project management, racially discriminatory practices (if any), terms, conditions, and price of the offer, control over annual assessments (if any), or the availability of water, services, utilities, or improvements. It may be advisable for you to consult an attorney or other knowledgeable professional who is familiar with real estate and a law in the country where this subdivision is situated. In New York, the complete offering terms are in an offering plan available from sponsor. File no. CD11-1029 (Resort Residences) and fi le no. H11-0007 (Villas). Four Seasons Private Residences Anguilla are not owned, developed or sold by Four Seasons Hotels limited or its affi liates (Four Seasons). The developer, an affi liate of Starwood Capital Group, uses the Four Seasons trademarks and tradenames under a license from Four Seasons Hotels limited. The marks “FOUR SEASONS,” “FOUR SEASONS HOTELS AND RESORTS,” any combination thereof and the Tree Design are registered trademarks of Four Seasons Hotels Limited in Canada and U.S.A. and of Four Seasons Hotels (Barbados) Ltd. elsewhere. © 2018
ANGUILLA
RISING
H O W T H E I S L A N D ’ S L A R G E S T P R I VAT E E M P L O Y E R S C A M E TOGETHER TO RELIEVE AND RESTORE ANGUILLA AFTER THE HURRICANES
There’s little doubt about the incredible destruction Hurricane Irma left in their wake on the island of Anguilla; however, there’s even less question as to the strength and resilience of the Anguillan people. On a recent visit to the island (June 2018) the cement trucks were out, laborers were busy hammering and hauling, and smiles were widespread across the island. This is in large part because the Anguillans have banded together to help restore their beloved homeland. Such unity is commendable, but such unity in the aftermath of mass devastation is essential. Fortunately the Anguillan people have found it and, through grassroots operations like Anguilla Stronger, have managed and sustained it these past nine months since the storms.
PAGE 38 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE
THE HANGAR | ANGUILLA STRONGER
SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 39
FOUNDED BY THE ISLAND’S LARGEST
real estate owners and private employers, Anguilla Stronger’s sole purpose is to assist the Anguillan people in every possible way so that they may recover and rebuild after the recent natural disasters. By banding together, the real estate owners and hotel employers, such as Starwood Capital Group (owner of Four Seasons Resort & Residences Anguilla), Auberge Resorts Collection/Maliouhana, Belmond Cap Jaluca and Zemi Beach House, believe that their efforts will have a great impact. In recognition of the fact that tourism is the only industry on the island of Anguilla and that without tourism, many of the island’s residents will not have a means to make an income, Anguilla Stronger will also provide support until the resorts are repaired, back at high occupancy rates and able to reemploy their workforce full-time. Perhaps the most important thing Anguilla Stronger has done, though, in addition to unifying the people, is to recognize that simple dollar donations are not what’s needed, particularly in a market where prices have been inflated; instead, they have utilized Starwood Capital Group’s procurement expertise (and wholesale purchasing power) to supply the actual goods needed (food, water, medicine, detergent, diapers, hygienic items) and deliver them directly to those in need.
chat with the proprietor, his good friend and childhood schoolmate Garvey. The conversation that ensued was one of pure motivation and endurance. From Garvey’s harrowing tale of survival during the storm— fingers embedded between doorframe and roofline to secure himself for hours on end—to spitballing ideas of how to best get the word out regarding Anguilla’s needs and ways to inspire and aid the island’s talented young population, the invigoration was palpable. Though the powder-soft sand and aquamarine seaside setting certainly encouraged our optimism, ultimately it served as a lovely background to the far more powerful positive outlook that both these men—Anguilla born and raised— have toward their home and their fellow residents. How lucky am I to have been there then, and with plans to visit again, I hope to inspire you, too.
During my recent visit in June, I was given a tour of the facilities on the west end of the island, located right behind the Four Seasons property, and bore witness to the tremendous efforts of the organization—from loading windows and doors off of containers and onto individuals’ trucks to be taken to specific homes in need to the impressive container-turnedwarehouse supply station where every week volunteers stuff care packages filled with dry goods and hand them out to residents.
Checking In with Beth Shanholtz
Not only was the organization and breadth of the supplies incredible, but perhaps even more so were the attitude and focus of the people involved. We saw this spirit reflected in our lovely host, Travis Simpson, an employee at the Four Seasons, who has been instrumental in the efforts of Anguilla Stronger, as well as in the lovely ladies from Maliouhana who accompanied me to various residents’ homes to deliver the aid bags, and through an after-school reading program where Anguilla Stronger worked with Firstbook.org to donate books. After we had dropped off the day’s distributions, Travis brought a fellow journalist and me down to the beloved Sunshine Shack on Rendezvous Bay to PAGE 40 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE
FOUNDER AND EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF ANGUILLA STRONGER
When did you start Anguilla Stronger? Immediately after the hurricane, Starwood Capital Group’s CEO, Barry Sternlicht, directed Roy Shanholtz, VP of Hotel Asset Management (and the Asset Manager for the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Anguilla) to figure out a way to provide aid to our people in Anguilla. Rather than rushing to create a simple online donation platform and just start shipping items, we believed it was critical to figure out a structure which would enable us to have 501(c)3 status, providing tax write-offs for US-based donors and allowing for larger donations enabling us to operator for a longer time period. We solicited advice from friends who had experience running nonprofits and also enlisted our legal team to advise us on critical issues. It took a couple of weeks to review various options, and ultimately we decided partnering with Pledgeling was the best solution.
THE HANGAR | ANGUILLA STRONGER
Given the severity of the storm and the devastation to the island, we expected the physical recovery process of repairing buildings, infrastructure, etc. would take months and likely at least a year for tourism to return to normal levels. On an island where tourism is the main, if not only industry, this translated to thousands of people who would be in need for a very long time. As the island’s largest private employer, we employ approximately 550 people, and we invited the island’s other large resorts to join us in launching Anguilla Stronger. Belmond Cap Juluca, Malliouhana, Auberge Resorts (the management company for Malliouhana) and Zemi Beach accepted our invitation. Collectively, we employ more than 1,000 people on an island of approximately 14,000 people. Our official launch date was October 4, 2017.
What’s been the most surprising thing you’ve learned through Anguilla Stronger? I always knew that helping people in need would be rewarding, but it has far surpassed my expectations. It has forever changed me in so many ways. There is no greater privilege in life than to help someone in need, and I have loved being part of an effort that has supported people during their most challenging times. I have been surprised by some of the roadblocks we have encountered, but I am grateful as each of them has been a great learning experience.
What makes Anguilla Stronger function successfully? On the fundraising side, we have been blessed to receive generous support from our largest corporate partners, friends and family around the world. On the operations side, we have a local committee comprised of individuals from each of the founding resorts. They meet weekly and provide their recommendations to me on the ways in which we should deploy the aid and the areas where we can make the largest impact. Another huge reason for our success is that we utilize Starwood Capital Group’s global procurement expertise to purchase the items we distribute at the
“ At press time, Anguilla Stronger has delivered more than 650,000 pounds of aid.” lowest possible price. By doing this, we stretch each of our donors’ dollars further than other charities do. We have been providing aid to an average of 600 to 700 people weekly, and I’m not aware of any other charity organization in Anguilla that is operating on this scale. Lastly, at our core is love. It is the basis for everything we do. Love for Anguilla, love for the wonderful people who make the island so extraordinary and love for helping others.
If you could replicate one thing about Anguilla Stronger or share a piece of advice for others beginning relief projects, what would it be? My advice would be that before launching a relief project, spend the time upfront really thinking through all of the various ways you can operate and areas you can impact to determine the most efficient strategy for long-term success. Other online fundraising platforms, which were created immediately after Hurricane Irma, rushed to start buying items at retail prices in the US and put them on boats. While any effort to assist people in need is admirable, it wasn’t the most efficient way to use donors’ money. Also, certain decisions were made quickly such as shipping generators, which they assumed people would need because there was no electricity. Unfortunately, only those people in the highest income brackets could actually afford the gas to operate the generators. We ultimately decided not to purchase generators and instead used our donations for critical items such as food, hygiene supplies and materials to rebuild damaged homes. We wanted to create something impactful and sustainable that would go the distance rather than being first out of the gate.
TO DONATE TO ANGUILLA STRONGER, visit https://www.pledgeling.com/anguilla-stronger/
Your tax-deductible donation will go directly to or for the benefit of the Anguillan people who need our help to rebuild their homes, hospital, schools, places of worship and other community services so that life can return to normal. SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 41
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Tradewind is a preferred air supplier of the Virtuoso network. PAGE 42 | GOODSPEED MAGAZINE
Tradewind Aviation has been awarded an ARGUS Gold rating, which is held by less than 20% of all US-certificated charter operators.
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SUMMER 2018 | PAGE 43
SuNdowners Goodspeed’s latest pick for where to best toast the sunset
MADAKET MILLIE’S—
Those regular to Nantucket likely know of the iconic restaurant that sits on the island’s western point in Madaket, with enviable sunset views and killer mixed cocktails. But for the uninitiated, Millie’s is a summer must when you’re on island. Come for the sunset but stay on for the delectable Mexican fare and copious cocktails. Below is our favorite for summer 2018.
MADAKET MILLIE’S BAJA PALOMA RECIPE
— 1.5 oz. mezcal — 1 oz. fresh lemon juice — ½ oz. agave nectar — 7 oz. ruby red grapefruit juice
METHOD
Shake all ingredients together and pour over ice into a mason jar with a salted rim. Garnish with a lemon wedge.
PAGE PAGE4444| |GOODSPEED GOODSPEEDMAGAZINE MAGAZINE
Imagine a place that
feels like home
©Laurent Benoit
and yet doesn’t at all.
P R I VAT E V I L L A R E N TA L S , AT T E N T I V E C O N C I E R G E S E R V I C E , T R U S T E D E X P E R I E N C E Who, where, when, what, how? These are the questions of vacationing. For some, the answers are automatic. For others, the contemplation itself brings delight. For more than 30 years, we have helped craft remarkable villa vacations, from St. Barths to St. Tropez (and more). WIMCO’s personal concierge service does so much more than “Meet & Greet.” Our on-island staff are experts at customizing your experience to give you exactly the vacation you dream of.
Above: Villa AXL, St. Barths
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