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T
he First Coast isn’t just where Florida begins; it’s literally a crossroads. It’s where two of the nation’s major interstate highways intersect, where the mighty St. Johns River empties into the Atlantic Ocean, and where a cornucopia of cultures and communities meet each other to form a whole that’s more than the sum of its parts. All these crossings yield a whole lot of good food. Bite by Bite celebrates the culinary richness of Northeast Florida. Traditional, contemporary and everything in between, the regional food scene is rising like well-leavened bread in a hot oven. In these pages, you’ll meet some of its movers and shakers, and see where they ply their delectable trades.
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THE SALTY PELICAN SINCE 2012, THE SALTY PELICAN HAS been one of Fernandina Beach’s most popular eateries, offering high-quality bar food with a gorgeous view of the Amelia River. Owners Al Waldis and T.J. Pelletier leveraged their years of experience in the hospitality and restaurant businesses, which included stints at the Ritz Carlton and Amelia Island Plantation, to offer qualify food and service in a waterfront setting. The Salty Pelican menu is rich with traditional and non-traditional bar fare. In addition to chicken wings, salads, burgers, sandwiches and conch fritters, you can also 12 N. Front St., Fernandina Beach 277-3811 thesaltypelicanamelia.com 8 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
order seared tuna nachos with seaweed salad, goat cheese, wasabi sesame seeds and Pico de Gallo; shrimp etouffee; and Maine lobster rolls served with chives, celery, butter and micro greens. According to Pelletier, the lobster rolls have been a huge hit. “I’m from Maine, so it was important to me to do it the right way,” he said. They are perhaps most famous for their broiled oysters, served with your choice of sauce: Pelican Original (horseradish, butter and parmesan); Bacon & Bleu Cheese (smoked bacon, bleu cheese and garlic butter); or Rockefeller (creamed spinach, parmesan, bread crumbs and bacon).
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun.
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BOLD BEAN COFFEE ROASTERS FOR ZACK BURNETT, MANAGING PARTNER (and green coffee buyer) of Bold Bean Coffee Roasters, running a great coffee business is not just about producing good-tasting coffee; it’s about the entire experience. “We put all of our energy into ensuring a great customer experience,” said Burnett. “This touches on everything from the quality of the products we serve, the ambiance of our shops and the genuine interactions we have with our guests.” Burnett’s father, Jay, started Bold Bean in his garage in 2007. Zack soon joined to help with production, and by 2010 he had started developing the retail model. The company has locations in Riverside, San Marco and Jacksonville Beach, and routinely racks up Best of Jax awards for best coffee shop. Bold Bean sources all its coffees in the country of origin, not from a coffee broker’s manifest, which gives them access to a greater number of coffees than most roasters. In addition to its extensive coffee selection, the
869 Stockton St., Riverside
6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat. 7 a.m.-6 p.m. Sun. 10 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
company offers a bake shop run by Burnett’s brother, Adam, as well as subscription services, custom orders, a line of Bold Bean merchandise and even classes and coffeerelated demonstrations. Burnett said Bold Bean is currently upgrading to a new roasting system that burns 80 percent less gas than a traditional roaster, “so our carbon footprint will go way down.” The new system, currently being tested, “will more efficiently transfer heat from the burner to the coffee bean,” resulting in a sweeter, more vibrant coffee. The staff is at the heart of Bold Bean’s success, Burnett said. “The most common feedback we get is that people love our staff and the experience they have in our shops,” he said. “Our wholesale accounts love not just our coffee but the account managers who work directly with them as well as the services we provide such as training and consultation. So, really it’s all about the people.”
2400 Third St. S., Ste. 200, Jax Beach 6:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Sat. & Sun.
1905 Hendricks Ave., San Marco 6:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Sat. & Sun.
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BRETT’S WATERWAY CAFÉ LOCATED AT THE END OF CENTRE STREET in historic downtown Fernandina Beach, Brett’s Waterway Café has been a popular destination for locals and tourists alike since 1989. Diners can feast on the array of fresh seafood dishes (and more) while enjoying breathtaking sunsets and beautiful views of the Amelia River. Lunch menu items include the Midwest Heartland Chicken Salad, with bacon and garlic-roasted pecans; shrimp & grits, with Tasso ham, red-eye gravy and fresh tomatoes; Bourbon Street Pasta, with roast chicken, vegetables, Tasso ham, cream sauce and tabasco fried onions; and fish tacos with bronzed whitefish, black beans, avocado crema, sofrito rice and salsa. For those with more traditional tastes, there’s a half-pound burger, a pulled pork sandwich—slow-cooked in1 S. Front St., Fernandina Beach 261-2660 12 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
house with homemade barbecue sauce— and Good Ol’ Fried Shrimp, with coleslaw and cocktail sauce. Dinner items include an appetizer of grilled asparagus with lump crabmeat and Hollandaise, seared scallops with butternut risotto, pork belly and asparagus, grilled salmon with mustardglazed guinae, wild rice craisins and beurre blanc, and grilled twin lobster tails with French fries, butter and corn on the cob. Land-lover favorites include beef short ribs, Porterhouse steak and chicken Cordon Bleu. Owners Brett Carter and Robert Fischer keep their restaurant modern offering daily vegetarian entrée specials and gluten-free options. Dogs are welcome on an outside porch, a popular spot for happy hour, Mon.-Fri. 3-6 p.m.
HOURS OF OPERATION 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Daily 5:30 p.m.-close Mon.-Sat.
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IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD: ST. AUGUSTINE
KYLE DUMPSON
Trolley Conductor
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WE’VE GOT IT MADE IN THE ANCIENT City. The food is so good. There’s a little bit of everything here, too. St. Augustine Seafood Company has your shrimp baskets and fresh-catch sandwiches in a fast casual atmosphere. It’s perfect for lunch, as is the Grilled Cheese Gallery. Located right on the Plaza de la Constitución, the GCG is sammie heaven. (Also home to unicorns.) Meehan’s Irish Pub & Seafood
for a slice of pizza? Head down King Street to Carmelo’s Pizzeria. It’s next door to Carmelo’s Marketplace and service station. Can’t miss it. The one area that St. Augustine needs to work on, in my humble opinion, is late-night eats. Barley Republic Irish Public House and South-A-Philly Steaks & Hoagies are after-hours oases in a city that rolls up the sidewalks way too early. Thankfully,
We’ve got it made in the Ancient City. The food is so good. There’s a little bit of everything here, too. House is your ideal spot for oysters, any style, and a panoramic view of Matanzas Bay (ask for a table upstairs, and tell ’em Kyle sent you). Prohibition Kitchen has your burgers, including the famed Bootlegger (with smoked bacon, fried pickled green tomato slice and housemade pimento cheese). Hangry
these two establishments are hella sumptuous oases, offering copious portions of comfort food to help ease the transition between party mode and sleep mode. When at you’re at Barley, try the Buffalo-style chicken tenders. When at South-A-Philly, chow down on—what else?—a cheesesteak!
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TRASCA & CO.
HUNGRY FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT? Locally owned, Trasca & Co. Eatery is a one-of-a-kind, vintage-inspired, neighborhood eatery in Ponte Vedra Beach. Its roots trace back to 1974 ... and members of the Frasca family have been slinging the melted, golden-brown deliciousness ever since. Trasca’s signature Panino is the heart of the menu. It’s a craveable creation that is meant to be eaten like a rolled-up sandwich. Where does it all start? With a secret family dough recipe, of course. (It’s made fresh 155 Tourside Dr., Ste. 1500, Ponte Vedra 395-3989 trascaandco.com
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daily, too.) After rolling the dough nice and thin, the Frascas add the best quality meats and cheeses, fresh vegetables and housemade sauces. The final product is packed with flavor. Also on the menu: healthy yet indulgent breakfasts, Bold Bean Coffee, local craft beers, Puck’s sodas, appetizers, fresh salads and a famous mud pie. Trasca & Co. Eatery is owned and operated by residents Sara Frasca and Karina Coryell, who are delighted to serve hand-crafted meals to their neighbors and friends.
HOURS OF OPERATION
8 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Thur., 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri. & Sat., 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun.
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SOUTHERN CHARM CHEF ART JENNETTE’S PASSION FOR bringing people together is evident in his love of cooking and, maybe even more, his love of people. His simple recipes and his classic Southern cooking and boisterous persona have earned the chef fans among local dignitaries, whose photos he proudly displays, albeit in cracked frames, hung on Southern Charm’s walls and piled on the counter by the register. Everyone seems to know Jennette, and Jennette knows them. Despite Southern Charm’s location— 3566 St. Augustine Rd., Southside 517-3637 artscrackercooking.com 18 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
in an industrial district on St. Augustine Road, off Philips Highway—diners from all over the area come to the tiny landmark, especially on weekends—it’s reservations (and cash) only. It’s the closest thing you’ll find to your grandma’s kitchen: a place you can go alone without ever feeling alone. It’s simple, no frills. Just pure love in a skillet. “I love this work. I love putting out authentic food. And I love people,” Jennette says. “With God’s blessing, I’ll keep on making Southern food until I drop dead.”
HOURS OF OPERATION
11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. & 6-8:30 p.m. Tue.-Fri., 6:30-8:30 p.m. Sat., noon-2:30 p.m. Sun.
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THE FISH COMPANY & OYSTER BAR THIS ATLANTIC BEACH SEAFOOD destination has been making waves in the coastal community since 2006. Known for consistently offering some of the best local, seasonal fresh catch, The Fish Company & Oyster Bar has made its reputation. “The Fish Company is our vision of a first-class seafood restaurant with a casual beach attitude,” says Ann Pinner, who owns the establishment with her chef husband, Bill. Together, they’ve accomplished that mission. Chef William Pinner uses the best 725 Atlantic Blvd., Ste. 12, Atlantic Beach, 246-0123, thefishcojax.com 20 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
seasonal and local seafood available in creating his menu. Locally sourced products are included whenever possible. A raw bar in the center of the restaurant showcases crustaceans and other fresh steamed and raw seafood. The Fish Company, open every day, has daily specials; happy hour is 2-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday. The Pinners also offer housemade desserts and a full bar. And there’s people-watching on the outdoor patio as you dine. This destination is a must for lunch or dinner.
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thur., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. & Sat., 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.
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CAFFÉ ANDIAMO CAFFÉ ANDIAMO IS A FAMILY-OWNED and family-managed restaurant serving contemporary Italian fare created with traditional, fresh ingredients. This established dining treasure just celebrated its 15th anniversary. Head chef and owner Giovanni Recupito Jr. took the best features of all the restaurants he and his father owned, including Tra Vini’s, and incorporated them into what has now become a destination 225 Village Main St., Ste. 500, Ponte Vedra, 280-2299, caffeandiamo-pvb.com 22 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
restaurant for people all over the region. From making homemade fresh pasta as his father did here 30 years ago, to housemade fresh sausage and mozzarella, to an extensive wine list, Caffé Andiamo goes above and beyond to serve authentic cuisine. The bar has more than 65 wines by the glass, and the dining room’s atmosphere is chic, with a beautiful wood-burning pizza oven and private dining room. Outdoor seating is available.
HOURS OF OPERATION 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Daily
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BLACK SHEEP RESTAURANT THE INDEPENDENT UPSCALE RESTAURANT in historic Five Points serves New American favorites with a Southern twist. It’s what they call “haute meets homegrown.” That’s right, fine, downhome cuisine made with locally sourced ingredients from regional farmers and purveyors. Daily specials are available; check the website. Black Sheep’s awesome rooftop bar is … well … awesome. It even won Best Rooftop Bar in our Best of Jax 2018. 1534 Oak St., Riverside 380-3091 blacksheep5points.com 26 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
That’s where you can imbibe signature cocktails and craft beers, or work your way through an extensive wine list. (Bubbly in a can, anyone? Snack on some fried green olives stuffed with housemade pimento cheese, or go all out with an entrée like Wild Georgia Shrimp & Grits—all with a view of the jacksonville skyline. In the immortal words of Tim Hardin, “The black sheep can wear the Golden Fleece and hold the winning hand.”
HOURS OF OPERATION
10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tue.-Thur.; 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.; 9:30 a.m.-mid. Sat.; 9:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun.
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BLK SHP AT INTUITION IT’S LIKE A DREAM COME TRUE: LOCAL craft beer and great Black Sheep fare are offered at the counter inside the taproom of Intuition Ale Works, in Jacksonville’s Sports Complex. The brewers behind the popular craft label partnered with their culinary counterparts at Black Sheep to give game-day crowds something special to nibble on before, after or during the main event, be it a 929 E. Bay St., Downtown 683-7720 intuitionaleworks.com/food 28 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
Jacksonville Jumbo Shrimp home game, a concert at Veterans Memorial Arena or a Jacksonville Jaguars workout. ` Think of it as a grippable greatest hits selection, hand-picked from Black Sheep’s extensive repertoire. We’re talking brisket sandwiches, shrimp baskets, wings, mac & cheese, burgers, buffalo chicken and … drum roll, please … best damn poutine on the face of the Earth.
HOURS OF OPERATION
5-9 p.m. Tue., 3-10 p.m. Wed. & Thur., 3-11 p.m. Fri., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sat., 1-8 p.m. Sun.
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IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD: CLAY COUNTY
NICK BLANK
Clay Today Staff Writer
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AS A JOURNALIST, YOU HAVE TO SMALLtalk with various sources about something, and food is usually it. Clay County used to be known for farming rather than cuisine. The farming community dwindled as fast as the strip malls and chain restaurants sprouted up. Now the area has a solid food scene—small but diverse. We’ll start in Orange Park, with a Blanding Boulevard trio. The best spot in the area for NOLA-style Po’boy and gumbo is Mackey’s Munchies. Anything with
pizza (no tomato sauce, but plenty of sour cream and chives) and the unusual but awesome Swamp Chicken pizza (complete with gator tail). Boondock’s Bar & Grill in Lake Asbury and Whitey’s Fish Camp in Fleming Island are favorites among residents and tourists alike. Indeed, they’re usually the first recommendations to fly when locals are asked. Dubbed “the king of comfort food” by a Clay Today colleague,
Is there anything better than smoked fish dip, couscous salad, roasted potatoes and lamb gyro? “Mack’s sauce” is delectable. Three miles to the north, Tunis Seafood Wings and Subs, a small shack wedged between a SunTrust and a Jimmy John’s, has the most eclectic mix of takeout staples. Another mile up the road and you’ll find Brewer’s Pizza, one of the few places where you can purchase a craft beer from Pinglehead Brewing Company (a Clay standout, brewed onsite). Brewer’s out-there favorites include a Baked Potato
Grumpy’s Restaurant on Kingsley Avenue is the best place for an omelet. In Green Cove Springs, La Casita offers excellent Mexican fare and tasty drink specials. I’m fond of a kabob and falafel, but before going to Mush Armenian Kitchen, I’d never tried Armenian cuisine. Seriously, is there anything better than smoked fish dip, couscous salad, roasted potatoes and lamb gyro? Heavenly.
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ATHENIAN OWL “HOSPITALITY IS IN OUR DNA,” SAYS restaurateur George Triantafillopoulos. “We Greeks get connected through dining. … Going out to dinner is a way of having a good time with all the people in the room, not just our party. I wanted to bring that philosophy here.” ‘Here’ is the newish Baymeadows eatery, Athenian Owl, the only Hellenic restaurant in a sea of Indian spots. Gregarious Greek Triantafillopoulos offers a mix of classic and contemporary Greek fare. The usual suspects—pastitsio, moussaka, bifteki, 9551 Baymeadows Rd., Ste. 21-23 503-3008 athenianowljaxfl.com 32 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
souvlaki and gyro—are here, house-made. He’s quick to credit the skilled women behind the skillet. “Mama Georgia and my wife, Marilena, are responsible for the rave reviews,” he admits. Mama’s dolmades aren’t your usual standard-issue grape leaves—they’re foliage-wrapped keftedakia (meatballs). The Athenian Owl also serves pita sandwiches, lamb dishes, several souvlaki choices and vegetarian plates. Dessert? Baklava, galaktoboureko, kok and honeyed yogurt. Nóstima!
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-2 p.m.; 4:30-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 4-10 p.m. Sun.
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WHITEY’S FISH CAMP THERE REALLY WAS A PERSON NAMED Whitey—he worked for the U.S. Navy. In 1963, he and wife Ann Ham opened the humble fish camp—a real one, with bait and tackle, beer, sandwiches, gas and probably ice, for those hardy hopeful folks who docked there to get what they needed to hit the open water and catch a fish. The place became popular as a stopover, and soon Whitey was expanding into a 2032 C.R. 220, Fleming Island 269-4198 whiteysfishcamp.com 34 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
restaurant and even an RV campground. These days, the place is an institution in Northeast Florida, where people take their Yankee relatives to show them the real Florida. It’s famous for its All-You-Can-Eat local wild-caught catfish, as well as oodles of seafood, steak, chicken and gator tail. There’s an outside Tiki bar and live music on the weekends, too. Come by boat, motorcycle or car.
HOURS OF OPERATION
4:30-9:30 p.m. Mon., 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Tue.-Thur., Sun.; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fri. & Sat.
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CRANE RAMEN THIS IS RAMEN DONE RIGHT. FRED BROWN and partner Bill Bryson opened the first Crane Ramen in Gainesville in 2014. It was a hit, so Fred decided to bring all that ramen joy to his hometown. Crane Ramen Jax, in the heart of Five Points, displays a crane in its logo—it’s the symbol for longevity and good luck. With the dishes offered here, however, this place doesn’t really need luck—it has 1029 Park St., Riverside 253-3282 craneramen904.com 36 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
Executive Chef Steve Grimes, who with Brown and Bryson, perfected a menu using fresh ingredients (mostly locally sourced) for its authentic dishes (most are from scratch), featuring otsumami (Japanese appetizers), ramen and craft cocktails. And no worries—vegetarian and vegan items, kimchi and gyoza are available. There’s a daily happy hour, too.
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tue., Wed. & Sun., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Thur., Fri. & Sat.
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CORNER TACO SELF-DESCRIBED AS SERVING ‘SEMIswanky street food,’ this cozy Five Points restaurant is home to guilt-free comfort food. They call it “Mexclectic cuisine” and it includes (duh) tacos, nachos, chicken, chorizo, tempeh, seafood, plus gluten-free, vegetarian options, as well as beer and wine. It may sound silly but trust us: try the hummus. What’s so “semi-swanky” about all this? Well, it’s all made to order and 818 Post St., Riverside 240-0412 cornertaco.com 40 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
made from scratch. The ingredients are so fresh and sustainably sourced that the Corner was awarded not one but two Snails of Approval by Slow Food First Coast. A note about the name: Yes, Corner Taco is located on a corner! Before that, though, it was a food truck—a semi-swanky 1965 Airstream. And before that, owner and founder Chris Dickerson honed his craft out of a taco stand.
HOURS OF OPERATION 11 a.m.-9 p.m. most days
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LA NOPALERA
MEXICAN RESTAURANT PERENNIAL BEST OF JAX WINNER, LATINthemed La Nop is tops in several respects: name recognition, market share and the always-important hipster cachet. Be they tourists or touring bands, locals, localized or just loco, La Nopalera’s fast, consistent service and uniformly good quality has a certain universal appeal to its customers. The eatery offers all kinds of freshlycooked-to-order burritos, plus tostadas, 8206 Philips Hwy., Southside, 732-9433 4530 St. Johns Ave., Avondale, 388-8828 42 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
chimichangas, burgers, tacos and empanadas. More than 50 craft beers, some local, as well as signature margaritas. Sunday brunch means bottomless mimosas. The baskets of chips and salsa—with a side of queso, of course—paired with a margarita, Modelo or a combination of the two are sheer bliss. Hours vary at each La Nop; check the website for details.
155 Hampton Point Dr., St. Johns, 230-7879 14333 Beach Blvd., Ste. 39, Intracoastal, 992-1666
1629 Hendricks Ave., San Marco, 399-1768
lanopalerarest.com
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IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD: FERNANDINA BEACH
BRANDY CARVALHO
White Oak Conservation Foundation
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IF YOU ASK ME WHERE I WANT TO GO to lunch, I’m on auto-response to say Timoti’s Seafood Shak. I could eat the blackened tofu for days (in fact, I have), and I love the fries like we are in a relationship. When celebrating or dining with a group of friends, España
friendliness elevates the experience every time I go. Cantina Louie is one of my top spots for casual celebrations and gatherings with work friends. Grab a Skinny Louie Margarita (or three, no judgment) and guacamole dip before you grub on $3 tacos for Taco Tuesday.
... it feels like a holiday meal at home. (But the good kind, where you don’t have to do the dishes.) Restaurant is my go-to. With their shareable dishes, unreal paella and welcoming energy, it feels like a holiday meal at home. (But the good kind, where you don’t have to do the dishes.) The Salty Pelican is always high on my list. The service staff seems to really want you there, and that attention and
I’d lose my locals card if I didn’t mention Moon River Pizza. It’s like the Cheers of Fernandina. There’s something to be said for going back to the same pizza place for more than 20 years! And every so often, the cooks form a kitty face out of the veggies on my tray—that’s when you know you’ve made it.
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AL’S PIZZA A NORTHEAST FLORIDA STAPLE FOUNDED in 1988, Al’s Pizza is known all over the region for its awesome pies and chill atmosphere. There’s nothing quite like a neighborhood pizza joint, and Al’s has sweet weekly deals to lure you in. Stop in daily for a quick $1.50 slice for lunch; get $8.99 pasta dishes (including garlic bread and a salad) all day Monday, or show up on Thirsty Thursdays for $1.50 wine and select beers. 240 Third St., Neptune Beach, 853-6773, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily 14286 Beach Blvd., Ste. 31, Intracoastal, 223-0991, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily 11190 San Jose Blvd., Mandarin, 260-4115, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.Wed.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Thur.-Sat. 46 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
With seven Al’s in the area, you can get that cheesy pull whenever you crave authentic pizza or Italian dishes. Founder Al Mansur built his empire one pie joint at a time, but he has since diversified his restaurant portfolio to include Latin fusion (Flying Iguana Taqueria & Tequila Bar) and contemporary Southern fare (Coop 303). A local legend, Mansur can still be seen tossing dough and baking pizzas in his various kitchens.
635 A1A N., Ponte Vedra, 543-1494, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun. 1620 Margaret St., Ste. 201, Riverside, 388-8384, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily 8060 Philips Hwy., 731-4300, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.
1 St. George St., St. Augustine, 824-4383, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Thur.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. & Sat. alspizza.com
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SMOKIN’ D’S BBQ IN A SMALL, UNASSUMING BUILDING, there’s a handmade brick firepit that fits into 500 square feet. Don’t let the small size fool you—the magic happens the moment you set foot inside. Close your eyes and mouth, and take a deep breath through your nose. That smell, authentic old-school barbecue … it’s meat, smoked to perfection. Smokin’ D’s has been servin’ chicken, brisket, beef, pork and sides daily for 11 years; the little powerhouse has managed to find a place in the hearts of local carnivores in St. Johns County and beyond. It recently
won Best Barbecue Restaurant in our Best of Saint Augustine 2019. One reason for Smokin’ D’s success: It’s a family business, run by father Daryl (the eponymous D) and his son. Another reason, they smoke their meat slowly, as nature intended, for up to 15 hours. How do you know D is smokin’? Because there’s a vintage fire engine parked out front, ready to extinguish the flames! But seriously, be there early—they won’t sell yesterday’s meat.
1409 U.S. 1, St. Augustine, 295-8952 110 S.R. 206 E., St. Augustine, 797-2050
HOURS OF OPERATION 11 a.m.-7:30 p.m. daily; smokindbbq.com
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RESTAURANT ORSAY THE FRENCH/SOUTHERN AMERICAN BISTRO serves steak frites, mussels and Alsatian pork chops in an elegant setting, with an emphasis on locally grown, organic ingredients. Owner Jonathan Insetta, Wine Director Jason R. Eddy and Executive Chef Michael McKinney have successfully fused classic European cuisine, regional charm and contemporary American ambience. They’ve also earned Slow Food First Coast’s 3630 Park St., Avondale 381-0909 restaurantorsay.com 52 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
Snail of Approval, so you know the eats are good, clean and sustainably sourced. The raw bar is fresh seafood heaven. And if a big dinner seems like too much, grab a seat in the lounge, drink rosé and craft cocktails, and eat oysters with your smartest pals. Happy hour at Orsay is where local professionals unwind after the day’s travails.
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. weekend brunch, 5-10 p.m. dinner, cocktail hour 4-7 p.m., 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Sat. cocktail hour
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COOP 303
A SHINY NEW ADDITION TO WHAT LOCALS call The Corner, Coop 303 serves regional cuisine and a great whiskey selection. On weekends, head to the Parlor to tap your feet to the featured local musician while sipping on a frosty beverage. Manager JP Diedrich says, “The menus are thoughtfully created with respect, humility and joy. This is FUN dining. Bring your friends and make some new ones.” Share a plate of apps 303 Atlantic Blvd., Atlantic Beach 372-4507 coop303.com
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with mix-and-match choices like the house pickles, fresh popcorn and boiled peanuts, then dig into giant sandwiches and heaping portions of most every item. Leave room for dessert or get a signature cocktail, like Jim Beam Black Bourbon-based Unforgettable with muddled lemon, mint and blackberries. All this earned Coop 303 two distinctions in Folio Weekly’s Best of Jax 2018: Best New Restaurant and Best New Bar.
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m. Fri. & Sat.
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HOUSE OF LEAF & BEAN THE BRAINCHILD OF GREEN ENTREPRENEUR Wen Raiti, House of Leaf & Bean opened in December 2017. It was—and is—one of a handful of vegan-oriented restaurants in Jacksonville. About 90 percent of Raiti’s entrées are vegan (though organic chicken can be added to some), and the restaurant aims to be 100 percent organic. The small building, located just west of the Intracoastal, once housed a Taco Bell. It now has a minimal but cheerful décor. Small bistro tables flank the walls of the dining room, and a small hydroponic garden grows in the corner. And though it retains some of the feeling of a fast-food restaurant, it’s also distinctly AsianAmerican, with a smooth jazz soundtrack, bamboo screens and a meditation room 14474 Beach Blvd. 379-1291 houseofleafnbean.com 56 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
used for tea ceremonies and mini-breaks from the real world. This, Raiti says, is the key to keeping it together as a new business owner. “I have a demanding career, and I struggle. But exercise, eating well and meditation help me deal.” For diners with equally demanding careers, the restaurant has a drive-through service, and most orders can be ready as quickly as five minutes or so. Everything is made in-house, from the tofu to the seasonings to the vegan cheese. Raiti’s No. 1 seller: the Leaf & Bean Rice Bowl. (Honorable mentions go to the vegan peanut butter cookies and handmade tofu dumplings.) HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tue.-Thur. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri. & Sat., 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Sun.
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MANGO MANGO’S
CARIBBEAN GRILL & BAR LOCATED JUST ONE BLOCK FROM THE ocean, Mango Mango’s Caribbean Grill & Bar has been serving island-inspired cuisine in St. Augustine Beach for the last 15 years. Aside from the variety of unique dishes, this local lunch and dinner destination is much more than just a great meal. It’s dining with a fresh style, unique flavor profile, laid-back atmosphere and friendly people. We recommend you try 700 A1A Beach Blvd., St. Augustine Beach 461-1077 mangomangos.com 58 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
out the trademark Mahi Sliders, Trevor’s Chipotle Shrimp Tacos or Mango Mango’s Famous Corn Cakes (p.s. they’re even better topped with savory jerk pulled pork). If you’re looking for dessert, Mango Mango’s features mouth-watering housemade treats, including white chocolate cheesecake and classic tangy key lime pie. This oceanside treasure is so good ... you just have to say it twice.
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.
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IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD: THE BEACHES
DAVI
Folio Pets Columnist
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EVERYONE KNOWS I HAVE AN ACTIVE lifestyle. I love to accompany my friends when they dine out, especially if the weather’s nice. Jacksonville’s beach communities boast several dog-friendly patios. Poe’s Tavern, an Edgar Allan Poe-themed eatery, is a favorite among pooches and people in Atlantic Beach. Pups are always allowed on the semienclosed patio, and the neighborhood restaurant offers an array of good eats and a long list of spirits for humans.
for live music performances in the evening. Let the good times fly at Flying Iguana Taqueria & Tequila Bar, where humans can enjoy Latin fusion cuisine in the company of their canines. Side patio tables welcome dogs, and servers are happy to fill up bowls of water for pets in need of hydration. If you are in the mood for seafood, North Beach Fish Camp offers creaitve dishes, a warm atmosphere and dog-friendly outdoor space. Because let’s be honest,
Because let’s be honest, there’s nothing better than relaxing by the beach with your favorite four-legged friend. A bowl of cold water is provided to keep tails wagging. Neptune Beach’s Southern Grounds & Co. is a place to keep in mind whether you’re heading out with the rising sun or going out on the town. The coffee tops their menu, but I hear the treats are mighty tasty, too. If you ever feel your dog needs more culture in their life, stick around
there’s nothing better than relaxing by the beach with your favorite four-legged friend. Just three blocks from the beach, Salt Life Food Shack offers a relaxing, open-air spot to enjoy tasty surf-andturf and chill with your dog at an outside table. Water for Fido is always flowing, and there’s a wide selection of cool drinks for humans, too.
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RAGTIME TAVERN, SEAFOOD & GRILL AN ATLANTIC BEACH FAVORITE FOR more than 35 years, Ragtime Tavern has earned numerous accolades for its creative cuisine, expertly handcrafted beers, outstanding service and lively atmosphere. Beginning in 1983 as a small neighborhood meeting place, with only 12 tables and a single bar, Ragtime has since grown into a hot spot that the locals and over-the-ditchers can’t stop raving about. Over the years, the brewery, lounge and taproom have been added and the 207 Atlantic Blvd., Atlantic Beach 241-7877 ragtimetavern.com 62 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
place is a favorite for live music and nightlife. Ragtime serves a variety of cuisines, including Cajun, fresh seafood, chicken and pasta, using only the freshest ingredients. It’s been said Ragtime’s shrimp & grits is without equal and that may be true. We like the warm chicken sesame salad, too. And the Ragtime classic craft brews? Yikes—the choices! Dolphin’s Breath Lager, First Coast IPA and Red Brick Ale for starters. Cocktails include Goombay Smash and Dark & Stormy.
HOURS OF OPERATION 11 a.m.-mid. Sun.-Wed.; 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Fri. & Sat.
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LARRY’S GIANT SUBS & FU PIZZA LARRY’S GIANT SUBS IS ONE OF THE most popular and beloved restaurant franchises not only in Jacksonville but throughout Florida, Georgia and South Carolina. Emphasizing hormone-free, sustainably farmed ingredients and using an eye-catching and distinctive New Yorkthemed design, the sandwich chain has been a staple in the Jacksonville area for nearly 40 years. With staple sandwiches such as the Animal, the Mighty Mitch and the Destroyer, the company has become synonymous with quality, affordable food. Now Larry’s has added a new, unique twist to their menu. According to Larry Raikes, franchise CEO, it all started when his sons Max and David took a trip to Italy a few years ago. “They fell in love with the pizza,” he said. They decided to open a new 3,500-square foot restaurant in Murray Hill that would be half dedicated to the traditional Larry’s Giant Subs and FU Pizza, 1050 Edgewood Ave. S. Murray Hill 503-5142 64 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
the other half to their latest venture, FU Pizza (for “fired up,” wink-wink). Max and David didn’t just want to add any old pizza. They wanted to authentically recreate the Neapolitan pizza they loved in Italy. In addition to getting all their dough and sauce directly from Italy, they decided to install a $100,000 water system to replicate water from Brooklyn. “Brooklyn water is not as hard as in Florida and the taste was better,” Raikes said. “We tried all different kinds. They also hired one of the top pizza chefs in the world, Attilo Albachiara, to train the staff. FU Pizza also offers a full liquor bar and hosts happy hours from 3-7 p.m. M-F, and M-Thurs 10-11 p.m. Raikes said business has been booming since they opened and that the happy hour always draws a crowd, especially on Thursdays and Fridays.
HOURS OF OPERATION
10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Sat. 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.
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T-RAY’S BURGER STATION HOUSED IN A FORMER EXXON FILLING station in historic downtown Fernandina Beach, T-Ray’s Burger Station is an undisputed local institution. The restaurant serves breakfast and lunch six days a week, and crowds start lining up for lunch before 11 a.m. to feast on the famously generous servings. “Big Ray” Mullis opened the gas station in 1972, and his son T-Ray, an aspiring restaurateur, started selling homemade sandwiches there more 20 years ago. Word spread quickly about the quality of the food, and by 1998, Ray, T-Ray and his wife, Laura, opened as a full-time restaurant. The eatery became famous for its tagline, “Eat here and get gas!” For breakfast, try the Kitchen Sink Omelet or Meat Lover’s Omelet, or one of their popular biscuits, bagels or English muffins loaded with ham, link sausage, bacon or sausage. If you’re watching your 202 S. Eighth St., Fernandina Beach 261-6310 traysburgerstation.com 66 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
weight, have the Egg White Omelet or an omelet loaded with veggies and cheese. Though famous for its burgers, T-Ray’s offers an array of sandwiches including blackened Mahi, fried bologna, portabella mushroom and fish. The signature fried shrimp is all locally caught. Daily specials are offered Mon- Fri, and include fried fish with hushpuppies, meatloaf and chicken and dumplings. The restaurant closes at 10:30 a.m. to prepare for the busy lunch service. “It sounds crazy to close your restaurant for 30 minutes every day, but it just gets so hectic,” said Laura Mullis. T-Ray’s has been mentioned in Southern Living and the Washington Post, and even landed on USA Today’s list of the 50 Best Burger Joints in America. So if you’re ready to experience this local treasure, be sure to get there early—and come hungry.
HOURS OF OPERATION
7 a.m.-2:15 p.m. Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-1 p.m. Sat.
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MOON RIVER PIZZA OWNER DAN BOTTORFF ISN’T IN BUSINESS for the money. In fact, all his staff is paid the same so there’s no competition for duties or tips. He believes that philosophy has contributed to the chill, family-style atmosphere and great service Moon River Pizza is famous for. “I don’t have them dressed up in outfits with hats and matching shirts,” Bottorff said wryly. As a military brat growing up in different parts of the Northwest and Northeast, Bottorff discovered he had a passion for pizza joints. After finishing college, he decided he wanted to run his own pizza restaurant. One Small Business Administration loan later, and he was able to open his first location in Fernandina Beach in 1996. The menu items are simple: fresh, quality ingredients, a handful of signature pizzas, plus salads, calzones and breadsticks. He uses cheeses from Wisconsin (which his pizza-makers blend themselves) and sausage from Jacksonville-based Azar Sausage. The
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restaurant now offers vegan cheese and vegan meats from local company The Zen Butcher, as well as lower-fat cheese and a gluten-free crust. Bottorff personally selects all the beers and wines. While the all-meat T-Rex might be his most popular pizza (and several Yelp reviews support that claim), his favorite is The Pizza, featuring mozzarella, mushroom, spinach, cheddar and garlic. About 15 years ago, Bottorff was looking to expand into Jacksonville. (“I was looking at areas that needed a little love.”) Downtown ended up being too expensive so he opened the Murray Hill location in 2005. Its hip aesthetic, colorful interior and striking artwork has made it one of the hippest and most popular eateries in the city. Bottorff said his goal was never to be rich but to support the community, a goal he believes he’s reached. “I wanted it to be affordable for families, and I wanted to see a diversity of families,” he said.
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
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HAWKERS ASIAN STREET FARE WITH LOCATIONS IN FIVE POINTS AND Neptune Beach, Hawkers Asian Street Fare has dominated the Asian food market in the Jacksonville area with recipes based on traditional Southeast Asian street food “hawkers.” From lettuce wraps, spring rolls, East Street Tacos and Roti Canai (a Malaysian flatbread served with curry sauce) to its famous dumplings, pad Thai and wok-seared Canton Cod, Hawkers serves authentic and affordable Asian food in a hip, casual atmosphere. Antoinette Jonas, Hawkers’ brand manager, said the recipe for Po Po Lo’s Curry comes directly from co-founder Allen Lo’s family and is still served on the streets of Malaysia. “You can order the same thing in Malaysia as you would get in Jacksonville,” she said. The Five Points location, which opened in 2013, has become so popular that cofounders Kaleb Harrell, Danny ‘Kin’ Ho, 1001 Park St., Riverside, 508-0342 241 N. Atlantic Blvd., Neptune Beach, 425-1025 70 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
Allen Lo and Wayne Yung have decided to add about 900 more square feet by expanding into the space next door. They’re hoping to have the expansion wrapped up within a year, with a goal of adding a full liquor bar featuring a selection of Japanese whiskies and other cocktails. “We’re also hoping to get really good artwork in the place,” said Jonas, referring to the posters and murals produced by Hawkers’ in-house design team. Since the first Hawkers opened in Orlando in 2011, the company has expanded to St. Petersburg, Windemere and Charlotte, NC, with more locations— Atlanta, Delray Beach and Nashville—on the horizon. Jonas said there are no immediate plans to close the restaurant during the expansion— the goal is to do as much of the work as possible overnight. “It should be a pretty seamless transition,” she said.
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Tue., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Wed. & -Thur, 11 a.m.-mid. Fri. & Sat.
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GRASSROOTS NATURAL MARKET PEOPLE SEEK HEALTH FOODS FOR many reasons. Wellness and longevity, supporting a vegetarian and vegan lifestyle, or just having a moment of clarity while horking back another Doritos-on-whitebread, eating better quality foods can only improve the overall quality of life. Whatever the motivation, Grassroots Natural Market has you covered. The Five Points institution was opened by the 2007 Park St., Riverside 384-4474 thegrassrootsmarket.com 72 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
Robison family in 2006. Organic produce, groceries and meats are readily available, as are deli sandwiches, scads of supplements, more soy items than you can shake a compassionately sourced stick at, and a boss fresh juice and smoothie bar (Best Smoothie, according to our Best of Jax 2018). Craft beers, organic wines, gourmet cheeses ‌ too much to list here. They even share their recipes!
HOURS OF OPERATION 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Sat., noon-5 p.m. Sun.
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THE HILLTOP CLUB & RESTAURANT OLD WORLD CHARM MEETS WONDERFUL fresh food in Orange Park. Housed in a Victorian mansion complete with several ballrooms and gardens, The Hilltop is a popular and picturesque venue for weddings and parties. The Orange Park institution also serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday. The splendor of the setting makes every meal a cinematic experience. The 2030 Wells Rd., Orange Park 272-5959 hilltop-club.com 74 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
food is top-nothc, too. The Hilltop’s upscale menu features dishes like shecrab soup, New York strip, osso bucco and more. Happy hour runs 4:30-7 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, in the Piano Lounge. There’s a special Easter Brunch menu— make your reservations now for an elegant holiday experience.
HOURS OF OPERATION 5:30-9 p.m. Tue.-Thur. 5:30-10 p.m. Fri. & Sat.
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FLYING IGUANA TAQUERIA & TEQUILA BAR TWO WORDS: TABLESIDE GUAC! THIS Neptune Beach Latin fusion joint is known for its top-shelf margaritas and fantastic guacamole. (In fact, Flying Iguana is a perennial Best of Jax winner in both categories.) The menu features Tostadas and entrées in a variety of carnivorous and vegetarian options, but The Iguana is most famous for its tacos. Choose from 207 Atlantic Blvd., Neptune Beach 853-5680 flyingiguana.com 76 | FOLIOWEEKLY.com | SPRING 2019
traditional faves, like slow-roasted carnitas, or more exotic choices, like the Junkyard with grilled chicken, roasted potato, queso, cabbage, charred corn and a signature flaming iguana sauce. Whatever you’re hangry for, there’s something to solve your urges. And if it’s a lovely day (or night), snag a table out on the patio.
HOURS OF OPERATION
11 a.m.-midnight Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m. Fri. & Sat.
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