11 minute read

Jessica Sidman | Food Editor For Washingtonian Magazine

What does it take to be the mother of all food writers? Jessica Sidman is adored for her candor and spirited (sure, pun intended) coverage of the Washington, DC food scene. As a Food Editor for Washingtonian Magazine she is obviously having fun covering the people and trends behind the big world of DC’s food and drink happenings. Add mother of two to her resume and wow - there is a lot to know! One of the best things about Jessica is her willingness to share it all- the highs and the lows, sweets and sours - even the “just no ‘’ and “must know” insider intel - thank you Jessica. Hint, early-in, frst seating dining is a must with kids! Read on to learn how Jessica does the juggle - some days with masterful grace and some days with a lot of laughter - always with her passion shining through. Join me, meet Jessica Sidman and enjoy!

What Is One Piece Of Advice You Wish You Could Offer Your Former, Expectant Self?

You don’t need to be as prepared as you think you do. I was diagnosed with preeclampsia in my frst pregnancy and so I had to rush to the hospital very suddenly and unexpectedly to be induced fve weeks early. I was not prepared at all! I had put the car seat in the car a couple days prior but that was about it. I had a birthing and newborn care class scheduled that I never got to go to. But mostly, I wasn’t emotionally and mentally prepared at that moment (maybe no one is). Ultimately, though, you do it and you fgure it out. You really don’t need much. You don’t need to take a class. You certainly don’t need to have a picture-perfect nursery set up. And for every other last minute need, there are Amazon deliveries!

You are a top food and trend writer in Washington DC where you share your take on all that is buzzing. What has been the biggest shift in how you see the wide world of hospitality since your pregnancy and new motherhood?

Being pregnant got me really into non-alcoholic cocktails, which I was probably a little dismissive of in the past. Now, though, they’re having a real moment. Trendy restaurants are highlighting them on menus, and a wide range of zero-proof spirits have come on the market. I really appreciate a bartender who can make something interesting (and not too sweet!) and not just hand over a glorifed lemonade. Another thing, now that I have two babies: I’m much more aware of which restaurants and bars have changing tables in restrooms. I just wish more places would have them in the women’s room AND the men’s room. Guys change diapers too, you know!

Speaking of pregnancy, what cravings did you have? How did you keep your energy up in the early and late days?

My biggest craving in both pregnancies was citrus. I’m usually kind of ambivalent about oranges but I HAD to have one every day. I also became obsessed with kiwis, which is a fruit I don’t usually buy. As for energy… I didn’t really have much, especially in the frst trimester. Working from home was one of the few silver linings of being pregnant during a pandemic because I could actually sneak in a nap in the middle of the day (shhh!).

So many women are taking their talents out of the corporate or simply established world and choosing an entrepreneurial path. Welcome to the great resignation. You are a penn grad and a top voice in the hospitality space for years. Through this time, you have seen women hang their own shingles, for better and for worse. What would you say is different now? And what would you share are key learnings of success or failure for start-ups?

So many people, no matter their industry, took a long hard look at their work lives during the pandemic and decided they weren’t going to put up with shit anymore. A lot of the restaurant workers I write about didn’t have healthcare or sick leave. In many cases, their employers didn’t provide suffcient PPE, even as they were expected to continue working in close quarters. As the pandemic progressed, many had to deal with harassment from customers who refused to wear marks or show proof of vaccination. So it’s

no wonder a lot of people decided to leave the industry or do their own thing. Plus, let’s not forget how many restaurant workers were suddenly laid off at the beginning of the pandemic. At the same time, there was so much resiliency. Former chefs, servers, and others kick-started their own businesses, sometimes out of their own homes, fueled exclusively by social media. I can think of quite a few that have become quite successful since. Anytime there’s a big shift in culture and lifestyle— like was forced on us by the pandemic—there’s a big opportunity for entrepreneurship.

You work long hours and obviously pour your dedication into all you do. Reading any of your articles is like getting the skinny from a friend. When you wrote about kid’s luxe brithday party themes and included kidchella i have to imagine over-the-top birthday parties suddenly feel a lot closer to home! How to best describe this shift in you?

Yes, the story you’re referring to is about a certain set of well-to-do Washington parents who put their kids’ social lives on hold at the beginning of the pandemic, then decided to go all out with extravagant birthday parties once vaccines became available. We’re talking, like, thousands of dollars spent just on balloons. I’d like to think being a mom helped me relate to my sources, and I totally understand the impulse of wanting to make up for all the canceled playdates and missed activities. My own kid, however, didn’t get a second birthday party, thanks to the Delta wave. She got a homemade cake and a single balloon.

You are on parental leave with your second child. This is quite an adjustment. What has the experience of suddenly learning, about a new version of yourself, about a new little person, about your partner and all the nuanced skills that come into play in the day in the life of mom?

I think probably the biggest thing being a mom has taught me is the importance of patience. Not that I’m all that great at being patient, but it’s something I strive for with my kids, my husband, and myself.

How do you prepare for a day of wearing so many different hats? How do you keep yourself rested and well? And of course, who cares for you!?!?

Sometimes being a working mom is like living a double life. I often feel like I’ve had a full day by the time my daughter goes to daycare at 8 am. I wish I could share some great secret about balancing it all and staying well-rested, but frankly, I can’t. It’s exhausting most of the time. It’s especially hard as someone who’s always been very ambitious and career-oriented to have new priorities as a parent. I try to give myself permission to not be perfect, which is a challenge. Thankfully, my husband is always there to tell me I’m doing a great job, even when it really doesn’t feel like it.

What were some of your most favorite gifts for you?

I’m not a big drinker generally, but the one thing I had fantasies about in my second pregnancy was an icy cold, extra dirty martini. After my son was born, my husband gifted me a martini kit with all these specialty stuffed olives. That was the perfect gift.

What were your biggest covid learnings? How did you handle the tricky great unknown of pregnancy in a pandemic? How did this impact your friendships? Marriage? Did you even have moment to rest? And of course, what is different about you now, in this brave new world?

My daughter was about six months old at the beginning of the pandemic when everything shut down. We pulled her out of daycare and were just juggling her back and forth while still working full-time. Work was intense then, too. My husband and I are both journalists, so Covid was one of the biggest stories of our careers. I don’t know how we got through that period—and we were some of the lucky ones. So many of the people I was writing about in the spring of 2020 had suddenly lost their jobs or didn’t have the luxury to work from home and were putting their lives at risk. I think every parent was just screaming into the void at that point. I got pregnant with my second shortly after I was vaccinated, at which point I thought the pandemic would basically be over. Ha! I was probably more cautious than a lot of friends and colleagues. My job typically involves a lot of eating out, but I didn’t do indoor dining while pregnant. Probably the most stressful part of the entire pandemic for me was the beginning of this year, between the omicron wave and my February due date. I wasn’t overly worried about getting really sick, but I feared if my husband got Covid he wouldn’t be able to come to the hospital for the birth and I’d be all alone. Being pregnant is stressful enough, but the pandemic added a whole new layer of things to freak out about.

Do you imagine your biggest challenge as a new mother will be working? Can you give some favor to what this time in your life? A bit about your biggest challenges, triumphs?

Time. Breastfeeding/pumping, daycare pickup/dropoff, fnding something a toddler will eat, averting meltdowns, and bedtime routine can add up to a second full time job. Plus, my actual job involves a lot of dining out and being in the know about restaurants. To be honest, I’m not sure what that will look like with two kids! I like to bring them when I can, but that’s not realistic at a lot of places. Going out for dinner at 9 pm after they go to sleep?

What pro-tips do you have to share with other new or expectant mothers?

I know a lot of new parents are reluctant to eat out with their kids, and I don’t blame them. When things go south, they go really south (like the time one of them started crying hysterically and the other peed her pants.) But I would say it’s still worth it to teach your kids from a young age how to behave in restaurants. And as someone who loves dining out, it’s also nice to not have to totally give that up just because I have kids. The key is fnding ways to not disrupt other diners and to not make service staff hate you. My pro-tips? Go right when the restaurant opens (5/5:30) when it’s not too crowded and your kids aren’t overly tired. Take advantage of all the streateries and outdoor dining that have popped up during the pandemic. Loud restaurants are your friend! Err on the side of being over-prepared: a baggie of Cheerios, extra change of clothes, coloring book/tablet (I am not above screens when they keep the peace). And most importantly, tip well!

What do you envision as the future of women in the Food and Beverage Space?

I think one of the reasons you haven’t traditionally seen as many women in the upper levels of the industry is because it’s not very accommodating to moms, or really parents in general. You work evenings, you don’t get a lot of time off, and the benefts often aren’t great. But I do think there’s a new generation trying to make restaurants more friendly to parents with perks like paid parental leave in addition to full health benefts. There are also a growing number of opportunities for women in food outside of traditional restaurants. So hopefully the future is just more women in the industry succeeding because they actually have a fair chance to succeed.

Who was your biggest source of support in returning to work as a mother?

I’ve been lucky that a lot of my colleagues and editors are also moms. It makes such a difference when the people you work with get what it’s like when your kid’s home sick or you barely slept because the baby woke up at 3 am. Also, I’d be remiss to not mention my husband, who handles daycare drop offs, changes diapers, and makes a mean cocktail after a long day.

JULIA BECK

Julia Beck, founder of the It’s Working Project has been an active and engaged industry innovator for more than 25 years. As the category’s defnitive elder statesman and strategic partner, Julia and her team have been on the leading edge of the conversation and challenges at the center of the intersection between work and the female and parent universe. Julia’s unique perch and her cadre of cross-industry connections have led her on a path that at once supports economic growth, women and families.

Julia’s passionate focus on the quality of and recognition of women is just part of the story. An avid traveler and home cook, Julia has an unparalleled enthusiasm for the whole of the food and beverage space. She is known for hosting an annual Cheese Suite in New York, dinners - ranging from high to low and is often found enjoying a bar-dine at some of her favorite spots. Ask someone where they met Julia, the answer will likely be right there - tasting and talking her way through a night at Gramercy Tavern, Eventide or Ris. Look for her too exploring new cities, cultures and food halls never forgetting her Philadelphia roots (pretzel, please), Julia’s career can best be categorized as consistently vibrant, evolving and certainly exciting. Her signature enthusiasm, humor, natural leadership and genuine care for her clients and the world as a whole have led Ms. Beck on an exciting path.

We are thrilled to have her here, introducing us to some of her most beloved food fnds, the remarkable mothers who defne the world of Food and Beverage.