TAVERNS OF GOA

CHEERS TO A LEGACY CALLED CAJY BAR!

By Laila Fathima Images by Eligio

Goa, in the 60' s and 70' s used to be famous for its hippie trails. Post millenium though, things slowly changed and now it' s the hipsters who keep the alternate Goa scene vibrantly alive. They are the ones who either call Goa home or visit here often enough to no longer be enamoured by the shining clubs and big restaurants of Panjim or Assagao. They flock to not-so commercial watering holes where the clientele is young, articulate, artistic and comfortably ensconced in crowded corners.

The music is lively, the vibe eclectic and the ambience at first glance can look like someone is having a backyard party. Sitting on the cusp of a mainstream and unconventional list of places that one must 'do ' , these are the local taverns of the North Goa belt. One such ambient bar is Cajy ' s in Arpora. Will you find tourists here? Definitely. Yet, Cajy Bar is one of those rare places that are situated almost in the heart of the loud and dazzling tourist strip and yet remain unaffected by it. Apart from a handful of actual tourists, Cajy Bar is mostly frequented by Goan locals and settlers alike. This family owned bar started operations in 1970 founded by Caitano Domingos Fernandes a.k.a Cajetan (Cajys), grandfather of the present owner Eligio Fernandes. Cajetan was a popular man in his village and tipplers from Arpora and neighbouring villagers found their way to his bar each evening to exchange daily tidbits of life over some brew and goan snacks. In fact Eligio recounts how even now some old timers visit to reminisce about the good old days of his grand dad, when they had their first dates here! To this day, the bar retains the unassuming nature of a local tavern where you can today mostly find lively groups of pals out for an affordable evening of spirits and tasty bites. After the passing away of Eligio ' s father Damiao, in 2010, the bar was rented outside the family. But in 2020, the life changing pandemic ,which largely figures in nearly every

person ' s story today, hit home hard. With no job opportunities visible, Eli, as he is popularly known, formed a formidable trio consisting of his mom Philomena Fernandes and sister, Evelyn Fernandes and restarted Cajy Bar as a family again. The three of them together have done a superb job of giving Cajy Bar a unique appeal both in its ambience and it' s F&B offering. Initially opened as a local dive bar with just three tables by the Fernandes family, word of mouth soon turned Cajy Bar into a popular chill out spot for Goans and tourists alike.

The charming balcao like seats in red stone, the chairs made with crates, the carrom board room, the garden tables..all vie for attention and no matter where you finally plonk yourself after giving an order of beer and the specials of the day, the service is assured with warm smiles and genuine hospitality. An attribute that has trickled down over the decades, it is what makes this family-run business a fierce favourite of both Goans and a floating hipster crowd who seek out offbeat eateries to spend their time and money on. And both are well spent on Cajys on any given evening! The phenomenal Philomena, Eli' s extraordinarily gifted chef-mom, is in charge of the lip smacking menu here. The delicious Ard Mass, slow cooked pork ribs on the bone, is a favourite of many. While the Prawns in Butter Garlic, Tongue Roast and Beef Croquettes are utterly droolworthy, some crowd pleasers like the Chicken Lollipop, Stews and Pork/Beef Vindaloo with Garlic Poi seem to hit the spot when a large and hungry group orders. Goan styled beef cutlets are perfect on the side of your drinks. Which you can choose from a slew of whiskeys, gins and foreign and Indian beers along with the increasingly popular locally brewed new age Goan Craft beers. Cocktails are not on the menu but if you were to walk up to the counter, the ever hospitable Eli will make you unique cocktails and drinks with the liquors and mixers in stock. During the Feni season, needless to say, the demand for this local heritage drink goes way up! At Cajy Bar, open mic nights are often held while some evenings, sports enthusiasts gather to watch live football or cricket. Retro and commercial foot tapping music for the swaying crowd and friendly faces all around. What more does one need when the goal is to relax and have a chilled out time with friends in Goa. Eli admits it gets tough when it' s just three people at the helm but they still prefer keeping a low profile, mostly preferring to cater quality personal service to locals who are long time regulars and also tourists who come here having heard or read about it. He proudly recounts how sometimes when the place is full, regular customers never hesitate to lend a helping hand at the bar or to wait at tables. That says much about the place and the people who run it. It is also a pet friendly place so your furry friends are always assured of a good time here too. Try Cajy ' s if you haven 't already found and fallen for this gem of a tavern on the Mello Rosa Resort road, Mainath Bhatti, Arpora, Goa. Some evenings, the place can get crowded so it' s not a bad idea to call ahead and book a table if you are a large group.