6 minute read
hoMe CheF: pear-shaped is BeautiFuL
Pear-shaped is beautiful
by laurenCe hauben
Pears, a sensuous harbinger of fall, tend to get overlooked, squeezed between the luscious peaches of summer and the uncomplicated crunch of apples . Yet this often misunderstood fruit is deliciously versatile and deserves pride of place on our autumnal tables .
Many pear cultivars, Bartlett, D’Anjou, Bosc, and the treasured Doyenne du Comice (commercialized in this country as Royal Riviera by Harry & David), are antique varieties, some dating back to medieval times . Perhaps because pears don’t enjoy the same broad-based market as apples or strawberries, breeding programs have not bothered to “improve” them, and when cultivated with care, they are still the same full-flavored fruits that were available over a century ago .
Two main types of pears are available this time of year:
Asian pears, sometimes called apple pears, are meant to be eaten crisp . Very juicy and sweet, they are enjoyed raw . They shine as a refreshing snack, diced in salads, or sliced thick on a sandwich . I scored high marks when I layered a lightly toasted focaccia with fresh chevre, fig jam, Asian pear, prosciutto, basil, and arugula . Stored well-chilled, Asian pears keep for several weeks .
European pears are more demanding but reward you with a delicately melting texture and rich flavor . They are far more aromatic than Asian pears, and meant to be eaten when tender . They ripen from the core outward, so to test a European pear for readiness, press gently near the stem . A slight give indicates that the pear is ready to be enjoyed . A pear that is soft in its fleshy part is overripe and ready for compost .
Serve Comice chilled and peeled for dessert or with artisan cheeses . Roast Bosc and pair it with pork or duck . Poach Bartlett in a light syrup or in spiced wine, add a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of dark chocolate sauce . Bartlett is also the star of this classic French tart .
tarte bourdaloue Pear and almond tart
There are many versions of this classic French tart. This is my interpretation of it. Ingredients for one 11-inch tart, serves 8 to 12
sugar Crust 1 large egg 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 3/4 cup powdered sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 8 oz . pastry flour (by weight, not by volume) 5 ounces unsalted butter Sieve the powdered sugar and flour, separately . In a food processor, mix together the egg and butter . Add the sugar and process until mixed . Then add the salt and the flour, pulsing as briefly as possible to bring the dough together .
Flatten your dough into a disk, and press the dough evenly into the sides of the pan . Don’t trim off the top, sugar crust tends to slump when placed
Southampton by Wood-Mode.
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Grilled Pork Ribs with Sticky Mango Sauce
in the oven . You can trim it after it has been baked . Chill it in the fridge for a minimum of one hour .
Preheat your oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit . Blind bake, covered with a disk of parchment and baking weights in a preheated oven for about 15 minutes, until lightly colored, before adding the filling .
aLMond CreaM (Frangipane) & pear FiLLing 3 ounces ground blanched almonds 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1/4 cup cream 1/4 cup milk 1/2 cup sugar scant 1/8 teaspoon almond extract (optional) 2 large eggs pinch of salt
About 3 Bartlett pears, peeled, cored, and halved, then poached (see below) 1/4 cup sliced almonds 2 tablespoons sugar for dusting
Beat all the frangipane ingredients together until well mixed . Pour the filling into the pan . Place the poached pear halves on the tart shell, pushing them into the almond cream . Traditionally the pears are sliced crosswise but I prefer the look of pears sliced lengthwise and fanned out . Top with sliced almonds and sprinkle with sugar . Bake at 400 degrees until the tart is golden, about 25 minutes . Serve warm or cold .
Note: to poach the pears, choose pears that are still a bit firm . Peel, core, and halve them . Prepare a medium syrup (1/2 cup sugar to 1 cup water), bring to a simmer, and gently poach the pears at a simmer for 10 minutes . Keep the syrup and use it to make peartinis .
grIlled PorK rIbs WIth stICKy mango sauCe
Recipe by Robin Goldstein (Serves 4) A huge part of making amazing ribs is buying the right kind of meat. Look for meaty spare ribs for this recipe rather than the typical baby back ribs. Spare ribs are taken from the bottom of the ribs, on the underside of the belly of the pig. This is why they are a bigger, meatier cut of meat. With this slow-roasting method on the grill, these ribs come out smokin’ amazing. The sticky mango sauce is a great combination of tropical flavors and the chipotle gives this recipe a smoky chile flavor with a bit of a kick.
2 racks pork spare ribs sea salt and freshly ground pepper
For the sauCe: 1 cup sherry wine ½ cup soy sauce ¼ cup toasted sesame oil 1 cup mango chutney 1 cup fresh mango, peeled + cut off the pit 2 tablespoons honey 2 green onions, white parts, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, root chopped 4 garlic cloves ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon chipotle chile powder 1 teaspoon hot sauce, your favorite brand 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Preheat the grill to 350°F, medium heat . Lay the ribs onto a large baking pan, rub the meat all over with 2 teaspoons salt and a few grinds of pepper and place into the preheated grill covered for 30 minutes . Meanwhile, blend all the sauce ingredients in a blender . Reduce the temperature of the grill to low and generously baste the ribs with the sauce every 20 minutes or so . Slowly ‘roast’ inside the grill for 2 hours, basting and rotating the pan for uniform cooking .
We all love the charred flavor of barbecued ribs, cook the ribs covered on the grill until the meat is done, then remove them, turn up the heat and char them on the hot grill for a nice, crusty sear on the outside .
Cut the ribs into portions and serve garnished with sliced raw green onion, with some extra sauce on the side .
Robin Goldstein is a local private chef and author of 4 local cookbooks who works her culinary magic by combining unique flavors and seasonal ingredients with classic techniques inspired by her extensive travel around the Mediterranean. privatechefrobin.com
