2 minute read

Perks oF the graPe trade

by bob Wesley

Being in the trade, we get to taste wine in a broad array of settings and situations, and the tableaux can range from utterly glamorous to downright rustic . I particularly love going to industry tastings at the Beverly Hills Hotel because it’s about the only way I can afford to get past the sentries there .

With rooms starting at $975 a night and a Caesar salad with shrimp setting you back 34 bucks at the Polo Lounge, it’s a flamboyant, detail-laden, pink and green oasis that preserves the style of old Hollywood but requires a formidable investment to get in the front door … unless, that is, you’re a wine schlub like me with carte blanche access to a large-scaled importer or distributor event in one of the glamorous ballrooms .

When sampling Chardonnay at a winery table I always half-expect Clark Gable and Carole Lombard to suddenly appear out of nowhere and elbow me out of the way . I love the Pink Palace, and with enough credit card reward points, someday I hope to be able to actually stay the night rather than just spend a couple of hours sampling vino .

What venues are at the less-than-picturesque end of the spectrum? Well, I’ve been to the Lompoc Wine Ghetto numerous times, where, hidden behind Home Depot, a bleak landscape of colorless warehouses offers no hint at the vinous treasures crafted inside . Here I’ve stood next to barrels stacked two stories high and spat into a drain embedded in the concrete floor, surrounded by plywood walls and building insulation, all illuminated in the stark glow of industrial lighting fixtures more suited to a stadium parking lot .

In Lompoc, the only remaining spirits of days gone by (unlike Gable and Lombard) might be a huffy, outraged ghost or two from the temperance movement that tried to outlaw alcohol about four decades before the Volstead Act was implemented nationally in 1919 . So, Prohibition actually failed twice in these parts, and “evil” fermented grape juice is now a significant (and growing) part of the city’s economy .

While there’s no Beverly Hills ambiance, the wines are so noteworthy that the gritty surroundings are inconsequential .

Bob Wesley is the general manager of Meritage Wine Market, 18 West Anapamu St. downtown. meritagewinemarket.com

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