wine tasting at its funky best

BY LoUIS VILLARd PhoToS BY eLIoT CRoWLeY

Calling all locals: If you’re looking for something truly Santa Barbarian to do the next time you have a free day; whether its entertaining some long lost college friend from out of town, or simply enjoying the downtown scene with a date, hitting “The Trail”…Urban Wine Trail, that is, is a definite top ten option.

The Urban Wine Trail is a unique take on any wine tasting tour. There are not many places that offer such a huge variety of wineries, plus a lot more fun than your average wine tasting tour: where else can you sample such a variety of the very best wines SB has to offer, in a range of different settings, from the classic atmosphere of el Paseo to the casual and innovative flavors of the funk zone, just a few steps from the beach.

Although many of the wineries are next door to each other there are in fact a few distinct areas of ‘The Trail’, and if you’ve got only a day in town, or even a few hours, here is a snapshot of what’s available.

UptowN

Like a small cluster of tightly packed grapes, three tasting rooms sit almost on top of each other at the Anacapa Street entrance of old el Paseo.

Grassini family Vineyards is the newest tasting room at el Paseo. Grassini, whose winery is located in happy Canyon, mainly focus on Bordeaux varieties. Take the 2010 Articondo, for example, a classic blend of merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, such a fresh wine with bright red berry fruit, hints of light coffee and grippy

(continued) tannins. But make time to also try their Sauvignon Blanc, with the unique lemon marmalade flavors of happy Canyon.

Next door, doug margerum of margerum Wine Company has all sorts of red Rhône varietals, the man himself chuckles as he tells me about his favorite region “I might as well make wine that I like, because if I’m not going to sell them I’ll have to drink them.” he also makes Austrian style whites and Sauvignon Blanc. Not usually on the tasting menu, but definitely worth a purchase is his newworld style Sauvignon Blanc ‘Sybarite.’

Au Bon Climat, better known as ABC, is considered one of the more famous wineries in Santa Barbara County. In true ABC style, it has to be different, “Where else in a Santa Barbara tasting room can you buy magnums of ten year old Chardonnay?” says Jim Clendenen, the jovial owner and winemaker. Jim, himself, went through his winery’s cellar to put some of the treasures from his library collection back –on sale, there is really nowhere else where you can buy 10 to 15 year old wine for a little more than the original asking price. ABC is well known for their Burgundian wines, here, you’ll be able to try some of the county’s finest.

East-sidE down towards the east side of town, on Salsipuedes Street you can stop in to Carr Vintners. from the outside it looks like a miniature airplane hangar, but don’t let the façade fool you! This tasting spot is one of the hippest on the south coast featuring a laid back, barrel room vibe like no other. These folks know how to serve and entertain in their comfy seating areas and actually encourage you to bring your own pizza, and have a game of shuffleboard as you sip the many varietals by the glass or bottle. Ryan Carr, the owner and winemaker, is a Pinot Noir fan, but what you have to try is his 2010 Cabernet franc, from Camp four Vineyard, with soft berry fruits, a hint of tobacco and dried leaf: an overall light and elegant wine. Another fan favorite is the harvest Girl Syrah series, with aromas of white pepper, blackberries and spice it just begs to be purchased by the case!

A little further east, towards milpas you’ll find Jaffurs. Craig Jaffurs was fed up of driving north to Santa maria every day to make his wine, so he thought, why not build a winery downtown, and did just that. Adorning its walls with vintage surfboards but in the barrels it’s all Rhône. “Not many other people were making Rhone when I started (way back in the mid 90’s) and I just loved what it was all about” he explains. here, the 2010 Jaffurs Santa Barbara County Syrah, is such an easy wine to sit back and enjoy, with lovely soft berry fruit with a hint of that typical Syrah spice. The tasting room is in fact the actual working winery, don’t be surprised to see pumps, hoses, and all sizes of tanks just a couple of feet from where you’re standing. No fluff here, just great wine.

Slightly off the beaten path is Whitcraft Winery. founded in 1985…which for some of us doesn’t seem like that long ago, but in the annals of Santa Barbara wines could be considered the middle Ages. Started by Chris Whitcraft, it is now run by his son drake. for a young guy drake is making some mature wines. his knowledge comes from years of trying wines from his father’s wine shop mayfare Wine, in montecito, plus a lot of time learning from close family friend, Burt Williams of William-Seylem fame. “All you need is one conversation with Burt to learn loads,” drake explains. The wines here are by no means simple, they are very modern french in style, and drake likes whole cluster fermentation, which tends to give wine an extra lift in freshness. Whitcraft has been here for a while, and now with drake at the helm, the future looks assured.

FUNk ZoNE

The funk Zone is really the heart of the Urban Wine Trail, at the last count there were seven different wineries here, amongst the once forgotten alleys with new ones popping up every month. It is so easy to just wander in to the area and quickly find yourself standing at a bar tasting through a flight or just buying a bottle, ripping a cork and having a few glasses in the sun.

one of the more established stops is oreana, in what used to be a tire shop, on the corner of Anacapa and Yanonali. If for some reason you can’t find it, you’ll definitely hear where it is. As much as it is a winery, oreana has become the go- to spot in the wine social scene. most every Saturday and Sunday the winery hosts ‘Weekend Winedown’, where local bands play on stage in the afternoon. Lots of big reds to try here, and especially nice is the 2010 Tempranillo, a hefty glass, rich in flavor and hearty on the palate.

Still on Yanonali, across the street and down a block towards Santa Barbara Street, is a pair of recently opened tasting rooms that are also quite worth a visit. Pali Wine Co. sources grapes from up and down the west coast, so you could try an oregon Pinot next to one from Santa Barbara. They also have a nice patio and most weekends will have a food truck parked on the street just

Santa Barbara

the corner). Kunin mostly offers Rhône wines (plus one tasty Chenin Blanc) while Anacapa showcases varietal expression from specific growing regions in Santa Barbara. for instance, from happy Canyon they have a merlot, from Santa Rita hills a Pinot Noir, from Los Alamos a Syrah and Grenache, introducing the public to the best suited wines from each area.

It doesn’t stop here, though, as the Urban Wine Trail boast seventeen wineries in total. others to have a look at are municipal Winemakers on lower Anacapa in the old divers den, deep Sea on the Stearns Wharf, or Summerland Winery about 10 minutes down the 101 in Summerland. And your enjoyment of these wines doesn’t have to stop once you’ve left the tasting room. As a lot of these wineries are so small distribution is limited, so what better way to regularly receive your favorite tipples than to join a wine club. They usually include some sort of purchasing discount, free tastings and a party or two, well worth signing up for especially if you already enjoy the wine!

Reading about it might be fun, but the best way to explore and enjoy the Urban Wine Trail is to stomp the path yourself. Grab a map, try to get lost, try it on a rented bike and have a bit of an inner-city adventure! All options considered, you’d be hard pressed to find another wine tasting setting like this.