Bella Guatemala

A Recuerda (a memory)

My first trip to Guatemala in 1976 was cut short by a 7.6 earthquake. The temblor shook, rattled and rolled the Central American country in the wee hours of a February morning, taking more than 23,000 souls and injuring three times that amount. I was slumbering in the beautiful town of Antiqua, at a pensione/coffee plantation owned by a German woman named Frau Dressler, when the second story room began to shake. We went outside (I was traveling with a girlfriend and her mother), saw the volcano smoking in the near distance and, as the sun came up, learned that a young couple had been killed in their room due to a collapsing fireplace. Three days later, after picking oranges from the finca grounds for the wounded in hospitals, we decided to try and return home. We missed our planned trip to Lake Atitlan and Chichicastenango. Our bus rumbled through a second powerful aftershock – the driver putting the pedal to the metal as boulders bounced cartoon-style across the highway while passengers from an oncoming bus climbed out the windows on the side not blocked by a landslide.

Needless to say, I was a changed girl.

Some 40 years later, I had the opportunity to revisit Guatemala with a tour company called Bella Guatemala, founded by Elsie YiDonoy, a

Guatemalan-born, LA based businesswoman who specializes in cultural tours. A group of 18 of us traveled together for Dia de los Muertos that included a visit on All Soul’s Day/November 1 to an amazing kite festival that takes place on the grounds of the Santiago Sacatepequez cemetery –where everyone parties on down beneath huge, colorful kites —some 60’ tall—while flying their own, somewhat smaller handmade versions.

There was much more to our trip than the kite festival. A four-hour combo horseback ride/hike up one of Guatemala’s many volcanoes (Pacaya, which has the additional thrill of being active) was well worth the burn: our reward after some steep hiking and slip and sliding, included incredible views and an amazing outcropping of wildflowers on an otherwise lunar landscape along with a small kiosk selling Mayan horoscope jewelry made of lava.

Which brings me to the subject of shopping. I devoted a good portion of my time learning about and scooping up amazing textiles – ranging from a back strap loomed table runner purchased from the weaver for my mother’s Thanksgiving table to hand woven shawls naturally dyed with indigo, tobacco and beets, beautiful beadwork jewelry, thick woven wool blankets and even earrings made of coffee beans.

Our 8-day (this year’s will be 10 days) itinerary included comfortable lodging at every stop. We began with three nights in the charming town of Antiqua with its cobblestone streets, portals revealing beautiful courtyards and gardens and candles throughout adding a romantic glow to the city at night.

At Lake Atitlan, we visited villages rimming the lake via boat. A delightful encounter with a charming and savvy Mayan businesswoman named Manuela – who whipped a huipial over my head and braided my hair in the Mayan way, was memorable. After dressing me in her native garb, she insisted that I have someone take my picture.

“You take it, Manuela”, I said, attempting to hand her my phone.

Suddenly the bubbly saleswoman became shy. But I showed her how to use it and told her I had complete confidence in her. She held the camera up, put her finger on the “button” and proceeded to take about 25 photos until I told her to release her finger!

Guatemalan food in the countryside is simple, for the most part –chicken, meat or tilapia served with rice, beans and plantains and homemade tortillas (there are four types – white, blue, yellow and red and the cuisine that I sampled has not reached the culinary heights of Peruvian or Mexican cuisine. Lakeside meals at both Las Lagunas and Hotel Atitlan were culinary highlights.

Perhaps the most exotic and luxurious part of our journey was revealed after the 50-minute flight to the jungle region of Petan – and a visit to the ruins of Tikal, the most famous of some 3,000 abandoned archeological sites in the country. Our lodging, at Las Lagunas rivaled any five-star resort.

The Mayan people and other Guatemalans are a highlight of this country.

Our guides - - Jose Antonio Gonzalez, one of two excellent guides, provided enthusiastic and fascinating commentary throughout our trip –particularly shining at the Archeological museum in Guatemala city on the last day of our trip.

All in all, a most amazing, action filled trip. I can’t wait to go back and visit this beautiful country with its warm and welcoming people. It will have to be sooner than another four decades, as I will be on another journey by then!

For Information On Tours Contact Bella Guatemala Travel

www.bellaguatemalatravel.com. Phone: 818.669.8435

Prices begin at $2,795 per person (based on double occupancy) including airfare for 10 day/9 night group tours of up to 18 people, but Bella Guatemala also arranges private smaller tours with guides that will reveal this incredible volcanic, Mayan land in all its glory, and then some.

Carpinteria

Garden Market. Offering very tasty sandwiches, salads, smoothies and casual fare. Open Monday–Sunday 10am-3pm. [L] $ (BW) 3811 Santa Claus Lane (805) 745-5505

Sly’s. James Sly, formerly of Lucky’s in Montecito, is back to cooking the finest steaks anywhere. Sly’s is open daily for dinner from 5 pm, features a full bar and extended wine list. (LD) $$ (FB). Reservations are suggested. 686 Linden Ave. 805-684-6666.

Montecito

CAVA. Experience the bold flavors of Spain, Mexico and Latin America in a romantic garden setting in the village of Montecito. Happy Hour 4-6, Weekend Brunch from 8am. [BLD] $$, (FB) 1212 Coast Village Road, 969-8500.

Lucky’s. Montecito’s only premium steakhouse. Great wine list and martini selections. Great weekend brunch served 9am-3pm. [BrD] $$$, (FB) 1279 Coast Village Road, 565-7540.

The Montecito Café. Eclectic menu with great service. Desserts to die for! Open Daily from 11:30 (LD) $$ (FB) 1295 Coast Village Rd. 805-969-3392.

Stella Mare’s. Overlooking the Bird Refuge in Santa Barbara…a glass greenhouse, sofas by the fire, casual French décor and traditional French Country Cuisine. Full bar and extensive American & French wine list, great private rooms for your event needs and Live Jazz on Wednesdays. Closed on Mondays $$ [LDBr] (FB) 50 Los Patos Way. 969-6705. (Cafe Stella is located at 3302 McCaw Ave, on upper State Street in Santa Barbara. www.stellamares.com)

Santa Barbara

Aldo’s Italian Ristorante. Since 1986. Experience lunch in the sun or dine by candle light in their enchanting courtyard. Friendly servers deliver fresh Italian specialties and creative dishes with a California flair. [LD] $,B&W. 1031 State St., 963-6687.www.sbaldos.com.

Boathouse. The Boathouse at Hendry’s Beach is the newest venture of the owners of the Santa Barbara Shellfish Company, which began on Stearn’s Wharf in 1980, and the Santa Barbara Fishouse. Enjoy stunning views and great seafood from a family run business that knows their fish! [BLD] $ (FB). 2981 Cliff Drive 805898-2628, www.sbfishhouse.com/boathouse

Bouchon. Restaurateur Mitchell Sjerven hosts the city’s