Classic NEON

Upper State’s brilliant landmark since 1956

by Jeff mIller

Photos by elIot Crowley

There was a time and place where birdbath martinis were hoisted at the laughter-filled bar, where slabs of roast beef were dished out on jumbo platters, where dinners came with salad and soup. The kind of place where Sinatra and pals might cruise in with their fedoras and trench coats and cigarettes, and the night would ring-a-ding-ding.

If you’re of a certain age you can revisit this place in your memory bank, or you can stroll into the Tee-off Restaurant and Lounge.

The exterior doesn’t hint at the largesse inside. It’s a modest storefront tucked in between others on Upper State. Actually, there is one pretty jazzy hint: that sign.

“The sign is an integral part of keeping the classic restaurant theme alive,” said John Scott, who, in partnership with his son Jordan and Dave Perry, owns the Teeoff, The Harbor Restaurant, Longboard’s Grill, and Harry’s Plaza Café. It’s one of the few neon signs left in the city. “As long as we don’t change it or move it, it’s grandfathered,” he said. So it’s not budging and remains one of SB’s favorite landmarks.

One way to judge a restaurant’s spirit is by the loyalty of its staff. Here’s a clue: Tony Ferdyn, bartender and Head of Hospitality, has been there 23 years and counting.

Then there’s general manager Todd Elliott, who was working at the Four Winds down the street, coming to the Tee-off for an occasional beverage with friends who worked there. One day he didn’t leave. That was 17 years ago.

And that’s only a sample of the longevity. Sue Ellen Clark’s been on the job for 25 years, Kristen Hardy, 24; Jerry Napolean, 17; Roderigo Figuero and Brandy Cordero, both 15. Pretty impressive in an industry known for turnover.

The secret? In addition to supportive management, “We have the best customers in town,” said Head of Hospitality Ferdyn, estimating that 80 percent of Tee-off business is regulars. “They’re loyal, generous, they love us and we love them. They come for birthday and anniversaries. They wouldn’t think of celebrating a birthday somewhere else.”

The Tee-off was born in 1956. Scott and Perry bought it in 1993. It’s often said that it was founded with the goal of providing a 19th hole for the nearby municipal Santa Barbara Golf Course, since the Muni didn’t have a liquor license. That may be a bit of a fable, Scott said, but there’s definitely a connection, and the theme continues to this day, in the form of golf memorabilia on the walls and the size of the drinks, guaranteed to ease the pain of doublebogey memories.

Like most restaurants the Tee-off has its special nights, but Wednesday is a special s. That’s rib night. Not baby back ribs or any other variety. These are prime rib bones. They take what’s left after the prime is cut off and barbecue them. And what’s left is quite a bit –think ribs a la Flintstone. “We’re the only place around that does it,” Elliott said. It’s all you can eat for as long as they last, which isn’t long.

Legend has it that famed UCSB coach Ray Schaack held the record at 27 ribs. “He was a big man,” Elliott noted. It’s a wild night at the Tee-off, the crowd often five deep at the bar and lively. “You have to use sign language to communicate,” said server Nancy O’Toole.

Every restaurant has a long menu of lore, but it’s possible that the Tee-off boasts more than most. Ferdyn has resorted to writing a book about his nights at the Tee-off and his previous bistros, titled “My Life Behind Bars.” And Scott tells the tale of an anniversary celebration a few years back, when they dialed prices back to 1956. “People were lined up all the way up Ontare,” he said. The then-manager felt so bad about the wait that she walked up the line, got names and telephone numbers and called diners when their tables were ready. “It was an amazing thing,” Scott said. “People went home and came back when it was their turn.”

That’s just a taste. For the full course you gotta go in person. And as manager Elliott says, “If you leave here hungry, it’s your own fault.”

Tee-Off restaurant & Cocktails 3627 State Street 805-687-1616