BBQ Boot Camp

More than a decade has passed since I last stayed at the lovely Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort. I am very happy to report that not much has changed at the 10,000 acre working cattle ranch in the Santa Ynez Valley. The Alisal (which means alder tree or sycamore in Spanish) is a welcome retreat anytime of the year. It bustles with families and pint-size wranglers in summer months, leaves change colors in the fall, winter provides an excuse to cozy up to the wood burning fireplace in your room, and in spring (if we get rain) wildflowers bloom on the rolling hillsides.

Twice a year, in fall and spring, the resort holds a Barbecue Boot Camp taught by Frank Ostini, chef/owner of The Hitching Post II in Buellton. Ostini, in his trademark pith helmet, fires up the outdoor grilles under the shade of stately sycamore trees and shares his soup-to-nuts tips acquired over more than three decades over a hot fire. Day one includes how to properly clean, prepare and fire up a wood grill, cooking techniques, flavoring and basting tips and more. That night, participants dine on the tasty grilled meats, fish and veggies paired with wines from Ostini and Gray Hartley’s Hitching Post label.

Day two begins with hearty breakfast and perhaps a morning hike or swim in the huge pool. For dinner number two, you are in charge of dinner! Guests practice their newly acquired grilling skills, flipping and basting pork chops, steaks, salmon and shrimp coated with spice blends made during a fun afternoon spice-blending workshop.

Day three begins with an early morning horseback trail ride under bright blue skies for an outdoor pancake breakfast at the old adobe with newly made friends before hitting the dusty trail back. Those who collected eggs from the henhouse during their stay make a last stop by the barn for their own half dozen.

You won’t go hungry or bored during the two night, three-day boot camp with plenty of time between Ostini’s lessons to play golf, tennis, go fishing at Alisal Lake or take part in other activities. Or, in between meals, just porch sit, enjoy the country vibe and make out a grocery list for when you head home to make use of your BBQ skills on the grille, with your own take home unique spice blend, ‘natch.

–Leslie Westbrook

The Alisal Resort and Guest Ranch, Phone: (805) 688-6411 alisal.com

Downtown Dish

I’m on another food adventure in downtown Santa Barbara! This time, my brother, Food Instigator #1, is riding shotgun. First stop is the new wine bar Villa on Anacapa Street, where owner Sean Larkins is pouring some amazing wine. Elegant and intimate with a beautiful indoor Spanish tile fountain, this is a great place for conversation and mellow music. My brother can recite the provenance of every bottle of wine he’s ever had, and after tasting several kinds of Grenache, we settle on Whitcraft Winery 2013 Syrah from Santa Ynez Valley. My brother lauds it as “multi-layered with a good combination of fruit and mineral.” It is 4 out of 5 stars in my book!

A good glass of wine puts me in the mood for an exceptional meal, and so it’s just half a block down to Paradise Café, sitting on the porch, toasty under the heat lamp, the gentle glow of the “Paradise” sign lighting up the lush plants around us. We share one of my favorite appetizers in Santa Barbara: the oak-grilled artichoke. It is hard to explain how narcotic the simple artichoke becomes when it is grilled over oak, slightly blackened at the edges, with soft, rich dollops of flesh sliding from the leaf into your mouth. Add a wedge of lemon, some chopped tomatoes, and a dipping sauce of mayonnaise, and I am completely happy. But not so happy that I can’t tackle the grilled salmon, garlic mashed potatoes, and spinach that is the main course. Buttery, soft salmon glistening coral inside at medium rare, with fierce grill marks crackling over the top. In a town where a subpar salmon dish can make or break a restaurant, Paradise’s salmon is top shelf. Relaxed, savoring every bite, this is the kind of meal where you don’t feel rushed to get on with your evening, and you start thinking the sign “Paradise” is completely accurate. Good food, good company, watching the last of dusk settle just off State Street. That is what Santa Barbara eating is all about.

The desserts at Paradise Café are amazing, but tonight I want something a little different. Chocolats du CaliBressan on State Street is open until 7 on weeknights, and I head over for the final indulgence of the evening: a cup of supremely smooth, rich hot chocolate. In my twenties, I was fortunate to experience the hot chocolate at Cafe Angelina in Paris. They are famed for their cups of molten bliss, which are so packed with chocolate that it is like a meal in itself. Having sipped and delighted at Cafe Angelina, I have since held all hot chocolate up to those standards. Chocolats du CaliBressan does not disappoint on this count. They melt real chocolate (nothing powdered) into steamed milk and will add a hint of peppermint if you ask. The tree is twinkling, the stockings are hanging by the mantle, and the rich wood of this beautiful chocolate shop is trimmed with pine cones and greenery. My last bite of the night? Chocolate ganache filled with figs and port. Truly a sublime end to an evening. —Silver

Webb

Villa Wine Bar & Kitchen, 618 Anacapa Street, (805) 770-5283; Paradise Café, 702 Anacapa Street, (805) 9624416; Chocolats du CaliBressan, 1100 State Street (corner State & Figueroa), 805-568-1313.

Louie’s is a hidden gem

offering creative and up-to-date Californian cuisine with spot-on service. Its bistro-like space is located inside the 130-year-old Hotel Upham, and reflects the charm and tradition of its Victorian location, with a jazzy, comfortable feel all its own. The romantic atmosphere can be experienced dining cozily inside or outside on an old-fashioned heated verandah. Choice selections from the well-stocked wine bar are served with extraordinary fresh seafood, pastas, filet mignon and a changing menu of specialties.

Food 26

Decor 21

Service 25

Cost $47