Foodie Issue 80: March 2016 by Foodie Group Limited

issue 80 | march 2016 www.afoodieworld.com

What a Pig East vs West pork traditions

Festival Flavours Renowned restaurant festival Taste comes to Hong Kong

Pies, Pies, Glorious Pies! Recipes for savoury and sweet golden crusted eats

Who doesn’t love pie?

CEO Lily Ng CTO Derek Kean Editor-in-Chief Alicia Walker Editor-at-Large Celia Hu Digital Editor Keshia Hannam Creative Director Helen Griffiths Designer Robert Li Foodie Club & Events Manager Hannah Chung Head of Sales & Marketing Joseph Kwok Client Engagement Manager Kathryn Riley

Whether it’s classic apple or showy banoffee, hearty steak and kidney or a light and flavourful quiche, pies are the failsafe bake of the culinary world. Pop those ingredients in pastry and you know your taste buds are in for a treat. It’s kind of like pizza in that even when it’s bad, it’s still pretty good. We went straight to the master, R.J. Asher of Tai Tai Pie Pies, known around town as ‘The Ultimate Pie Guy’ for his crowd pleasing pastries. He generously agreed to share six of his methods for us to duplicate at home. We have also assembled a feature on the differences between Eastern and Western styles of butchering and cooking pork as well as caught up with a bunch of the celebrated chefs participating in the inaugural Taste of Hong Kong festival this month that’s got this foodie town a buzzin’. The month of March continues to solidify Hong Kong’s advances as one of the world’s culinary capitals and we’re excited to see what comes to our fine food city next! Check out all this and more inside these food-filled pages!

Recipes

Sales Associate Philip Wong Developer Dale Foo

Alicia Walker Editor-in-Chief editor@afoodieworld.com

Junior Digital Editor Cheuk Fung Photographer Sophie Jin

Foodie Panel

Food-loving folk who’ve helped us this month:

Published by Foodie Group, Suite 1401, 14/F, Wah Hing Commercial Building, 283 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, HK www.afoodieworld.com Printed by Teams Printing Co., Ltd.

Foodie is published monthly, 12 times a year. The contents of the magazine are fully protected by copyright and nothing may be reprinted without permission. The publisher and editors accept no responsibility in respect to any products, goods or services that may be advertised or referred to in this issue or for any errors, omissions or mistakes in any such advertisements or references. Foodie and the Foodie magazine logo are trademarks of Foodie Group Limited. All rights reserved.

Tom Aikens

Cindy Lam

The celebrity chef behind The Fat Pig gives us a butchery lesson p.22

Bringing her vegetarian ways into our kitchens p.48

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If you’d like us to help you to promote your brand, please contact Joseph Kwok at sales@afoodieworld.com, 3791 2565

R.J. Asher The Ultimate Pie Guy shares his secrets for the perfect crust p.40

Secret suppers

Free Flow Events

Exclusive Deals

C onte nt s 18 FOOD WAR

Foodie Quote of the Month “Good food is the foundation of genuine happiness.” - Auguste Escoffier

Buying extra virgin olive oil may not be as simple as a shop at the supermarket

20 CHEWIN’ THE FAT… with the mixologists behind NYC’s Please Don’t Tell

22 WHAT A PIG East vs West when it comes to good pork

28 FESTIVAL FLAVOURS Taste finally comes to the 852

Cover story 40 PIES, PIES, GLORIOUS PIES! Tai Tai Pie Pies show us how to make these aromatic wonder wheels

32 THE TRUTH ABOUT OILS A nutritionist gives us the facts on edible oils

Keshia Hannam heads to Hanoi

In his dining column, Yalun Tu tells us where to take a client for a business meeting that’ll close that deal

48 MEATLESS MONTHLY Cindy Lam prescribes this simple artichoke and spinach pasta for supper

facebook.com/foodiehk // march 2016

34 FOODIE FORAYS

38 THE EVENT

for starters

This month’s hottest news bites WHEN PIGS FLY

TURN UP THE HEAT

A hot new restaurant has hit the High Street of Sai Ying Pun with a feast for the eyes and the taste buds too. Flying Pig Bistro combines urban art with European comfort food like pork knuckle, suckling pig and pork chops as well as sandwiches and egg dishes served on its weekend brunch menu.

If you’re constantly seeking new Sichuan to satisfy those spice cravings, there’s a new hot spot on the scene. This new Shun Tak Sichuan is called Moon Palace and serves up proper old school Sichuan including the Qing Dynasty dish of translucent beef slices as well as offering a selection of Shanghainese cuisine.

62 High Street, Sai Ying Pun, 2540 0311

Unit 3017, Macau Square, Shun Tak Central, 168-200 Connaught Road Central, 2111 4558

WINE WITHOUT THE WHINE Love wine but don’t love hangovers? Organic wine has the same taste but less preservatives and chemicals so you can indulge without the tiresome headaches afterwards. Purple9Wines sell an array of well priced organic wines on their website and are also setting up at this year’s Taste of Hong Kong. If you’d like to sample a few, visit booth 9F from March 10th to 13th or check out www.p9wine.com.

OSAKA KUSHIKATSU COMES TO HK Osaka’s renowned Kushikatsu restaurant Jan Jan Kushikatsu is coming to quell lunch hunger all around Wanchai. Specialising in fried skewers, this local delicacy is made up from closely guarded recipes that Hong Kong diners will no doubt flock to sample. Opening initially only for dinner, with lunch service to follow in the coming months. 2/F, 100 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, 2157 1408, www.janjan.com.hk

GOOD LUNCHING

Shop 2, 39 Queen’s Road, Central (entrance at Li Yuen Street East) 9852 1062

twitter.com/foodiehk // march 2016

If you find yourself wandering down the lanes during lunchtime, have we got a find for you. Brand new Cantonese roast meat shop Good BBQ is serving up five types of siu mei including char siu, crispy pork belly, soy sauce chicken, boneless chicken and roast duck. They serve up their takeaway using modern recycled packaging so you don’t have to house that styrofoam guilt any longer.

the best of the bloggers

Q. Where is your favourite restaurant in the world? Laura Williams www.mylittlehongkongkitchen. blogspot.hk

Chris Dwyer www.finefooddude.com This is the impossible question with as many answers as there are days of the year, but a truly transcendental experience was a donburi bowl of Hokkaido king crab legs, uni and ikura at Sapporo’s Nijo Market. I couldn’t even tell you the name, but look for a counter and a plastic awning on a corner and follow the smell of the freshest crab on earth.

This has to be a little Italian kitchen we stumbled upon whilst on our honeymoon in Ravello, Italy. Located down a typical cobbled alley, we saw a queue outside ‘Cumpa Cosimo’ on our first night and knew it had to be good. In this traditional family-run Italian restaurant, we were welcomed by ‘Mama’, the matriarch of the family and served the most incredible fresh pizzas topped with tomatoes picked from their own garden that day. A serious hidden gem along the Amalfi Coast!

Sharon Maloney www.jasmine-ginger.com My favourite so far is The Fat Duck in the UK - Heston Blumenthal is an endlessly creative soul and takes diners on an exciting culinary adventure. To me, the overall dining experience and the thoughts behind the menu are as important as the food itself. Quoting Bradley Cooper who plays a Michelin-starred chef in the movie Burnt, “I don’t want my restaurant to be a place where you come and eat. I want people to sit at that table and be sick with longing.”

Ale Wilkinson www.thedimsumdiaries.com It’s hard enough picking a favourite in HK! That said, I think I have to say La Colombe D’or in a little village called Saint Paul de Vence in the south of France. It’s absolutely beautiful and the menu, although simple, is divine. The menu has been exactly the same for years, but when it’s that good, it doesn’t need to change!

FEATURED FOODIE The Problem With Hong Kong’s ‘Live Reef Food Fish’ Imports We’ve chosen Ocean Recovery Alliance as this month’s featured Foodie contributor for their recent post highlighting the ever-increasing problem of illegal fish in Hong Kong. Here’s an excerpt: Despite the small size of Hong Kong, it plays a crucial role in the international economy as a trade hub. Hong Kong’s huge demand for live fish is becoming a very real problem for the city. Having decimated its own supply, Hong Kong now relies on importing 90 per cent of all seafood eaten here, but the necessary sanctions are not yet in place on these imports… To know more about this important issue, read the rest at: www.afoodieworld.com/oceanrecovalliance/5731-the-problem-with-hong-kong-s-live-reeffood-fish-imports 06

the social foodie

Tempting Foodie-grams and funny food tweets we giggled over this month

@Smug_Lemur

It’s a lot easier to stop eating carbs once you’ve come to terms with living a joyless life full of anger and sadness.

@DanKCharnley Please don’t open up a new can of whoop ass when there is already an opened one in the refrigerator. @katlamcglynn

1st mozzarella stick: omg yes 2nd-3rd: this is great 4-5th: no looking back now 6th: I regret everything

A new study finds that sausages are often linked to other sausages.

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@donni

foodie club

Monkeys Gone Wild at The Emack & Bolio’s Ice Cream Event The winning cone

Foodie Club went wild designing monkey-themed ice cream cones at the Emack & Bolio’s event. The rock stars of the ice cream world rocked our Monday when they invited us down to design our own ice cream cones (yes), eat them (yes, yes) and go on to eat ALL the ice cream we could handle (rock on!). The cold weather conditions didn’t stop us true ice cream lovers as we went ‘frost chasing’ all the way to Cochrane Street in search for the perfect Emack & Bolio’s flavour. Originally opened in Boston in 1975 (three years before Ben & Jerry’s), their signature marshmallow cones and outrageous flavours have won over the hearts of celebrities all over the world. The competition for the best monkey cone was tight and there were debates on whose was the sexiest, but the clear winner was this cute little number and his marshmallow top hat from one of our young foodies. The next time you’re craving some funky ice cream flavours, ditch the supermarket tubs in your freezer and head down to Emack & Bolio’s for their Smoreo, Space Cake, minty Grasshopper Pie and Chocolate Peanut Butter Cups and other fancifully flavoured ice cream. Emack & Bolio’s 26 Cochrane Street, Central, 2505 6626

foodie club

The Good Food Tour HK: Korean Edition A group of food writers went on a quest to find the best Korean food in Central.

knew spam tasted so good?” Who doesn’t know, is our answer to that.

Starting off at Seoul Bros, owners Iggy and Brian explained their more modern concept of responsible fast food. Seoul Bros is about bringing hearty food with influences from South East Asia and America and reinventing it into a cool, capwearing, K-pop bopping hangout. Fresh, full of flavour and with just the right amount of grease to soak up those Friday vibes. Needless to say, their kimchi fries and chicken bites smothered in sticky sweet, sour and spicy sauces were big hits with the group. The bibimbap was topped with a perfectly cooked velvety layer of egg, which mixed in with the rice and beef to make a substantial snack before we moved on.

Our night ended merrily at TaKorea, where we love the food as much as we adore the owner and mother of two, AhYoung. Not only a wizard in the kitchen with her Korean-style burritos and tacos, she also knows a fair few drinking games, making this one of our favourite hangouts. No one was spared with their Gojingamlaeju, a fun and dangerous concoction of beer, coke and soju that had to be downed in one. If you’re new to TaKorea, come here for the eggplant anything, which can be in the form of a burrito, rice bowl or tacos. This is fun, casual, no nonsense food.

Foodpanda will be hosting another four Good Food Tours in the coming months. We can’t wait to see what they have planned for next month because whatever it is, this one will be a hard one to top.

foodpanda www.foodpanda.hk

www.afoodieworld.com // march 2016

Mood lighting and a long table in the VIP room awaited us at Jang and a feast appeared before our eyes. Grilled meat is a must and would be a crying shame if you dined here without, but the raw crab and raw beef are also must-tries. Our hot pot was filled with fresh veg, sausages and spam, topped with a clear broth and finished off with noodles. Fellow blogger Michelle proclaimed “Who

Korean food: it’s popular for a reason, which was what we concluded from The Good Food Tour, and the new additions of Seoul Bros and TaKorea make it a fun way to fuel your nights out, whereas Jang provides perfect feasting food.

tried & tasted

PICNIC 38 Forbes Street, Kennedy Town, 2855 0810 西環堅尼地城科士街38號 The place Directly opposite the K-Town MTR on the cool confines of Forbes Street and sporting a casual yet elegant atmosphere that screams both business meeting and girl’s night out with its understated and sophisticated tone. The baskets: We went for the starter picnic basket ($388) that was filled with a bunch of lovely little samplings from crunchy caramalised nuts, moreish homemade chips, olives, beautiful pork rillettes that we fought over, a cauliflower mousse with salmon, and a foie gras custard that was full of flavour and oh so creamy. There were also baby radishes served in a little pot with a squid ink mixed with anchovies that looked like a little garden in itself and was super fun-and thankfully the only kitschy hint at the whole picnic theme. There are also baskets available with additional cheese and cold cuts ($588) or the complete basket ($888), which comes with a roasted half chicken, side dishes and sweet surprises. The dishes: A menu that is far reaching with everything from French onion soup and oysters to Scottish salmon, Atlantic cod and Maine lobster as well as pizzas and pastas, salads and sides. We went for the Prime beef burger 10

($148) that was the ideal size, deliciously juicy and served with guacamole and fries. We also chose the decadently doused Prime beef short ribs ($188) and were not disappointed with the amount of meat on those bones. Brunch: PICNIC is preparing their baskets on the weekend as well, where they are filled with homemade yoghurt, croissants and pastries, red fruits pannacotta and other goodies alongside parma ham, smoked salmon, cheeses, scrambled eggs, bacon and mushrooms for $290 or $398 with two glasses of Prosecco. Verdict: A lovely place to have a conversation, sample scrumptious flavours, enjoy the comprehensive wine list, and spend a few bob.

tried & tasted

New! McDonald’s Next Shop 1-41, Admiralty Centre, Admiralty 金鐘夏愨道18號海富中心地下1-41號舖 What is it? This might seem an odd inclusion but we were just so curious about the first ever McDonald’s Next in the world. Boasting a ‘real and fresh’ theme, it looked, on first sight, like a salad bar. Is McDonald’s venturing into the world of mindful eating? It’s expensive to eat nourishing food in this city and if good old Mickey D’s was throwing its economical offerings in the ring, we wanted to sample them. We appreciate what they have done with their McCafe menu, offering decent lattes for decent prices, so we were excited to see what Next would bring to the table.

The food: We set about crafting our CYT salad with a choice of three dressings in which we forgoed the balasamic and caesar for the appealing sounding roasted sesame, decided

www.afoodieworld.com // march 2016

The place: Serving the full regular and McCafe menus alongside their new CYT (create your taste) concept. They have some very cool selfordering terminals that make the process quite fun and you get to take a homing device to your comfy booth or high table (both quite chic and un-fast-food-like) and then your CYT salad or burger gets brought to your table while you wait (for about a minute and a half-it’s still very fast).

against adding the grilled chicken or crayfish egg mayo and instead went full veggie with grilled mushrooms, asparagus spears, cold cubes of sweet potato, sliced tomato, shaved parmesan and a quinoa cous cous mix. The crunchy long spears of asparagus were our favourite ingredient and only noteworthy part. The big wheels of tomato are a bit annoying in a salad and looked like they just came off the burger station, which for prep sake, is probably true. The curly fries were delivered in a hipsterstyle basket while my colleague’s curly fries, which were ordered from the regular menu, were served up in the usual paper cup and she

tried & tasted

had to collect them herself whereas mine were delivered straight to my smug expression. Is it cheap? $111 for a salad meal with drink and curly fries, and we hadn’t even added meat. The menu says they start from $48, so perhaps if we had just stuck with the leaves we wouldn’t have been quite so disappointed. Would we return? We’ve heard surprisingly good things about the build your own burger, so possibly, but not for salad. It didn’t taste good enough and wasn’t cheap enough to usurp other lunching options in Admiralty. Perhaps because we were (naively) looking forward to a healthy yet cheap meal, our expectations were too high. And it wasn’t without its plus points: it is good that McDonald’s is trying to expand into the healthy eating realm and give the people what their bodies’ want, but the value for money was the real factor that truly disappointed us. We would go as far as to say that rather than happy, it was a sad meal. If you have a friend that’s dying for a Big Mac but you’re trying to be good, you can buy yourself a costly, artificially artisinal-looking salad that’ll get some veggies in you instead of sitting in front of an empty tray; and that is a good thing, even if it’s not the great thing we were hoping for.

“Just the leaves please.”

KOKO 5/F, Carfield Building, 77 Wyndham Street, Central, 2109 1777 中環雲咸街77號嘉兆商業大廈5樓 Sundowners and sweet tunes: It’s all about the right ambiance when it comes to choosing a relaxing spot to unwind after a long hectic day. It seems that we’ve found the ideal pairing at the new KOKO, a modern izakaya featuring eclectic tunes and rare sakes. A partnership between Hong Kong party icon KEE Club and world famous footballer and sake ambassador Hidetoshi Nakata, the contemporary izakaya features vintage sakes from exclusive boutique producers in Japan as well as renowned whiskies from Hakushu, Yamazaki, Yoichi and Suntory. There’s even a sake sommelier to provide suggestions on food pairings. Simon Pang Washford, who is the Head of Music at KEE, handpicks the DJs to create the perfect blend of eclectic music for guests to sip to. Ideal pairings: Our evening started with drinks on the spacious garden terrace overlooking the historic Central Police Station. We sipped on refreshing glasses of apple sake and cinnamon infused glasses of Ringo Spritzer ($60), alongside moreish small bites ranging from tuna tartare adorned with soft-boiled quail eggs ($88), red mullet escabeche cured in zesty ponzu ($168) and juicy tsukune dipped in velvety egg yolk ($98) before moving onwards to a

tried & tasted

cosy secluded booth. We warmed our bellies with spicy seafood soup ($128) brimming with tender fish, scallops and prawns and slurped up umami-rich broth from the clams steamed in sake ($168). The rock shrimp tempura ($128) was slightly rubbery but still made a good pairing to the crisp, sweet Azuma Ichi sake. The baby back pork ribs ($188) in a sticky stock glaze was fingerlicking good, and fall-off-the-bone tender, while the lamb chops ($228) dressed in black garlic and Hatcho miso were seared to a perfect blushing pink. The Australian Black Angus ribeye ($230) was a touch overcooked, and paled in flavour when compared to the ribs and chops. The pièce de résistance arrived in the form of a bubbling hot pot of king crab and uni over rice ($268). Each kernel of rice was plumped by the rich umami seafood broth, embellished with sweet morsels of crab and sea urchin. Our meal concluded with an almond and yoghurt cake ($88) paired curiously with a caramel miso ice cream that reminded us of salted caramel, as well as a green tea and baked banana cream ($78) that sounded odd on paper but was a tropical treat with the coconut foam. However, our favourite was the dark chocolate green tea fondant ($98) which oozed in all its gooey delicious glory, although it tasted more of chocolate than matcha. Verdict: With all these new restaurants popping up built on “buzzwords” and complicated “flavour of the week” concepts, it’s refreshing to see a new opening that focuses on simple dishes and classic drinks. The menu is straight-forward and doesn’t succumb to any hipster inklings, plus, the sake sommelier is quite easy on the eyes.

New! Burger Joys Shop E, G/F, De Fenwick, 42-50 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, 2787 1288 灣仔駱克道42-50號君悅居地下E舖

The burgers: There are ten types of burgers, from single burger ($98) to signature double cheeseburger ($138) to a fish ($78) veggie ($78) and mushroom cheeseburger ($78). As some in the Foodie team are American, we feel the need to disclose that we feel a deep affinity to anything that has even a vague connection

www.afoodieworld.com // march 2016

What is it? We asked owner and founder of the new Wanchai eatery Burger Joys, Manu, what makes a great burger. He says it has to do with five primary factors: meat to fat ratio; type of meat; bun; condiments; and wow factor. At Burger Joys, the recipe is constructed with all these factors in mind. It all came about after a chance encounter with an American Michelin star chef one night out in Wanchai. Manu and this secret chef partner then went about creating a well balanced burger with “wow factor” (known more commonly as umami in modern foodie terms). They add a little somethin’ somethin’ to their offerings by basting meat with a secret butter and using a savoury, tangy burger sauce with a touch of spice.

tried & tasted

to In-N-Out, Shake Shack, etc. Luckily when we went to Burger Joys we took bipartisan, non-American burger eaters who also confirmed the deliciousness of the burgers. Even though this small city is in something of a burger glut at the moment, Burger Joys stands out for a few reasons: they have kept things simple with only burgers and a few sides on the menu; catered to vegetarians with no signs of any frozen, ambiguously beige ‘soy’ patties in sight; and they have ensured an all day and night opening policy seven days a week, which is highly convenient. We found the meat burgers to be juicy, savoury, fresh and balanced. Go for the signature double cheeseburger for the ultimate experience, while vegetarians will love the mushroom cheeseburger (which we liked more than the grilled vegetable burger, though we’re still very happy to see them both on the menu regardless). The sides: The milkshakes are lacking somewhat in flavour (intense sweetness doesn’t count), but that is made up for with excellent fries of truffle, cheese, California garlic and sweet potato. The onion rings and tater tots are also awesome, because really, they’re tater tots. Overall: Pricey burgers that are worth the tag. Being open 24/7 is a huge plus for us because this is the perfect 2am food. Knowing that owner Manu is such a good guy who genuinely wants the world to eat better burgers helps us sleep well at night too. It won’t be long before Burger Joys is a Wanchai institution.

New! Marbling by Mr. Steak Shop C, Cleveland Mansion, 5-7 Cleveland St, Causeway Bay, 2802 1128 銅鑼灣加寧街5-7號加寧大廈地下C號舖 What is it? A great new steak restaurant that has all of us foodies salivating. Elite Fresh Food’s new restaurant Marbling by Mr. Steak is ideally set smack in the middle of Cleveland Street (dubbed Food Street because of all the European-style al fresco restaurant options). Marbling stands out as a great new edition with its helpful and friendly staff, its relatively minimalist and polished decor, and excellent standard of food. What we ate: We began our lunch sets with a small daily soup (that day’s was tomato based). It came in a tiny espresso-sized cup and was rich with a creamy finish that got the appetite primed for the meats to come. We went for the lunch set which also starts with a salad buffet where we sampled shrimp and mussels, smoked salmon, fruit salad, a cheese platter and tossed our own caesar salads with a choice of toppings and dressings. For our mains, we chose the aged grain-fed 400 days Aberdeen prime steak ($398), the orange dijon mustard pork loin with caramelized onion ($138) and the “Creekstone Farms”

tried & tasted

Angus rib eye steak ($188). The portion sizes were reasonable for the meats and side dishes (mashed potatoes with zucchini and baby carrots for the steaks and caramelised onions with the pork loin). The aged prime steak was extremely tender. The staff shared the process for ageing the meat, which involves concentrating the blood and flavour in the central part of the cow. This makes the meat-you guessed it-more flavourful. The orange dijon mustard pork loin was fabulous

and almost worth a trip to the restaurant all on its own. The crust was sweet and offered the right counter to balance out the flavour of the caramelized onion. The Angus rib eye steak had the perfect texture. It was cooked a bit more on the inside than the aged prime steak and we all agreed it actually packed even more of a flavour punch than the aged prime steak. Another great steak well worth trying.

Verdict: Slightly on the pricier side but sophisticated enough to back it up and offers great value with its delicious dishes. There is an outdoor seating area for people watching, which we will take advantage of the next time we visit.

twitter.com/foodiehk // march 2016

For dessert, we loaded up from the buffet included with the set. It was a good finish to an excellent meal. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re fans of dessert buffets for the obvious reason that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not restricted to just one or two desserts and the variety makes us happy foodies. The Hokkaido milk pudding, which came in cute little milk jars, was a standout favourite along with the profiteroles. There were also an assortment of jello cubes, raspberry cheesecake, and a fruit platter.

tried & illustrated

Drunken Pot 2/F, 8 Observatory Road, TST, 2321 9038 尖沙咀天文台道8號2樓

Pearl Law illustrates her way through a dining review

tried & illustrated

Pearl Law is a freelance illustrator, zine-maker, part-time foodie and nerd.Â Born and bred in Hong Kong, she graduated from University of the West of England with a degree in Illustration www.pearlillustrates.com

www.afoodieworld.com // march 2016

food war

THE OLIVE HUSTLE I’m gonna make you an olive you can’t refuse

If you’ve seen the Godfather, you’ve seen the ruination that olive oil can wreak. But we found ourselves woefully lacking in the knowledge that Vito Corleone was actually based on a real mafioso, or that the olive oil war was real and is still happening. After we had conducted our blind taste test into four midrange supermarket brands of extra virgin olive oil (all Italian as it turned out), we discovered that a great majority of Italian extra virgin olive oils are being investigated for fraudulently claiming they are extra virgin, when they are commonly cut with cheaper, lower-grade oils. For all the very specific standards that extra virgin olive oils are supposed to meet, we are learning that-as is the case with many food labels-these standards go largely unchecked. So, if you find yourself with any of these readily available Italian brands on your shelf, it’s probably not extra virgin olive oil that’s dressing your salad. Even worse is the news that there are no home tests that are effective at determining the quality, so if you want a real extra virgin, you need to know your farmer. Not great news for stocking our larders here in Hong Kong then.

Price: $61.90 The look: The prettiest packaging of the lot with a heavily tinted

COLAVITA

bottle and a cold production assertion on the label. The taste: Completely absent of any aroma, this possessed a very faint taste that was ever so slightly floral with a tiny tinge of a bitter aftertaste. It seemed the most obviously watered down and rather than continuing to reach for adjectives to describe the flavour, it would probably be more accurate to say it tasted like nothing at all. Verdict: All style and no substance. Foodie rating:

Price: $62.90

FILIPPO BERIO

The look: The green-tinted bottle made an appealing addition to the shelf but contained a large, sloppy opening that made measuring a more careful affair. The taste: One taster dubbed this ubiquitous brand as tasting “petrol-like”, so not a great start for this attractively packaged oil. More pronounced in flavour than the others, we found it to be the strongest tasting overall, but unfortunately it wasn’t a taste we appreciated for our 62 bucks. Verdict: If you like a little fuel-flavour to your oil, this bottle’s for you. Foodie rating:

Price: $57.50 The looks: This untinted bottle wasn’t particularly wowing with its display and contained a spout with a wider, messier pour that was

BERTOLLI

trickier to manage. The taste: A heavier feel to the oil that sat uncomfortably on the palate with a bitter bite to it. None of us enjoyed our bread dip into this gold liquid and were all mildly surprised that this well known brand faired so poorly with our taste buds. Verdict: We expected more (although we are discovering that perhaps we shouldn’t have). Foodie rating:

Price: $32.90 The look: The cheapest looking bottle, as well as the cheapest by far, it promised Omega 3 inside and sported a slim-pour spout that delivered the oil in an easily measurable amount with no spillage.

innocuous bottle as the unexpected top choice. With a smoother, creamier consistency and light, buttery taste that housed the most appealing flavour, even though it was a very subtle flavour at that. Verdict: We were all surprised that this was our favourite, and now that we know extra virgin is often not extra virgin at all, we would

BEOSICTE CH

choose this bottle over a pricier, questionable brand in the absence of an authentic, straight-from-the-olive-farm variety. Foodie rating:

www.afoodieworld.com // march 2016

SELECT

The taste: In our blind tasting, every single one of us chose this

chewin’ the fat

Chewin’ the fat with...

Please Don’t Tell

PDT is a must-visit experience in New York City and Jim Meehan is possibly one of the most recognisable cocktail experts in the world. His time at Gramercy Tavern gave him perspective, working at Pegu Club propelled him into the realms of the ‘elite’, while launching Please Don’t Tell (PDT) has made him daring. It’s these experiences that have aided Meehan to craft successful bars famed the world over. PDT is now under the care of Jeff Bell–another unassuming yet deftly talented mixologist– and we caught up with them both while they ran the PDT Pop Up in conjunction with World Class and The Landmark Mandarin Oriental.

The Landmark Mandarin Oriental seems like such a different venue to PDT back in NYC, why this partnership? A lot of the other collaborations we have done in the past have been more similar to PDT in New York than this one in Hong Kong. In Melbourne we were at the Black Pearl and the drinking scene down in Australia is more alike to that of New York. This pop up is more like the one we did in Tokyo at the Park Hyatt which was all very Lost in Translation. We like that we are essentially creating the juxtaposition that we are known for in NYC with Crif Dogs, but in totally reverse order. Crif Dogs is a bit divey but there is thought and high end service when you step into PDT. Here we are offering a relief from the fashion-focused, luxury vibes of downstairs [at MO Bar] to bring it back to the drinks, the World Class spirits, the cocktails and the conversations. The drinking scene is far more immature here so we’ve had to adjust in that way too. What ingredient/drink/spirit will you always find at PDT? The ingredients that always have to be on a menu at PDT are not elderflower or a certain type of vermouth; what’s always on the menu at PDT is the rescue ring, or the life raft in some form. It’s not necessarily a Budweiser but something analog that they can order the first time round that will give them the time to get there, and maybe try something they are not used to. We always have a rum drink, a tequila drink, a gin drink. These aren’t necessarily classic, but they’re referential, and they can be suggested by the bar staff as a comforting choice until someone is ready to go for something a little more out of the comfort zone. We don’t ever want to alienate people at PDT, so the non-negotiable on the menu is a life raft to make sure you always have something to grasp when in unchartered waters. The thing with PDT, and

even this pop up, is that it attracts people who know what they’re coming for. However, those who come here knowing what it’s about may also come with two friends who have no idea what’s going on. So they’ll order a Jack and coke or something, to which we reply that we don’t even carry it. So what my staff are trained to do is to counter their suggestions and offer them something that they might think they like, rather than alienate them by simply stating we don’t have it. So they’ll order something that is like a version of what they’re used to, and once they have sat down with their friend, had a few sips of their cocktails, seen everyone around the bar drinking similar drinks, they start to get it. By the time the server comes round a second time, they order something they haven’t tried before, and end up loving, but they had that familiar drink to allow them the time to get there, on their own terms.

Inside PDT was an exclusive menu of 12 drinks and also served up four hot dogs created by the chefs of Yardbird, Bo Innovation, Amber and Ho Lee Fook while raising just under $20,000 for Feeding Hong Kong.

www.afoodieworld.com // march 2016

What does success mean for you and PDT? I remember once someone complained that another person had brought their grandma or mum to PDT in New York. They said that was a sign the bar was going down. We loved that! We love that someone can dine at Per Se and then finish the night in our little bar in the East Village, but at the same time someone will bring their grandma in for a drink. We have had women wearing burkas sipping mocktails, nuns and priests, young people and old people, paupers and princes; all kinds of people come through our doors. To us this is a huge achievement.

what a pig

What a Pig Celia Hu explores the differences between East and West culinary traditions when it comes to one of the hallmark beasts on our dinner tables Illustrations by Pearl Law

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what a pig

Winston Churchill once famously remarked that “Dogs look up to man. Cats look down to man. Pigs look us straight in the eye and see an equal.” The humble pig trotted into man’s world more than 11,000 years ago, with archaeological records showing Central Asia as, most likely, the birthplace of the modern domesticated pig. A flood of retrogression in the 18th century created the standard European pig, a mixed breed between Central Asian domesticated pigs and native wild boars. China, a nation of pork lovers, domesticated its first pigs around 8,000 years ago. China’s Emperor Fo-Hi decreed one of the first books on pig husbandry in 3468 BC.

and create relatively lower carbon prints when compared to cattle, thanks to their omnivorous diets and lower demand on grazing and living space.

Throughout the ages, the pig has been viewed both as ordinary livestock, and as a semi-holy icon. Deity-like pig imageries can be found on pottery dating back to Mesopotamia, and clay pigs were buried with Chinese emperors to accompany them into the afterlife. Today, pigs make up a key portion of our protein intake

We recently joined renowned British chef Tom Aikens at his new restaurant The Fat Pig, as well as chef Patrick Chan, the Chief Instructor at the Chinese Culinary Institute, to discuss the difference between Western and Chinese culinary interpretations of the pig.

Pork is incredibly versatile, and can be easily adapted into a wide range of dishes spanning diverse cultures. It’s difficult not to indulge in dipping into a bowl of sticky tender pork belly slow-braised for hours, crunching into crispy crackling, or devouring juicy plump dumplings filled with minced pork and cabbage. It is this undeniable deliciousness and versatility that has made pork one of the most important meats in our daily diets.

EAST

S facebook.com/foodiehk // march 2016

what a pig

Chef Tom Aikens The Brief: The youngest British chef to earn two coveted Michelin stars, Tom Aikens recently expanded his horizon to Hong Kong with The Fat Pig and his revamp of The Pawn.

Does opening a restaurant named The Fat Pig make you a pork lover?

Where does the pork used at The Fat Pig come from?

Yes, indeed. Pork is, by far, my favourite meat. It’s an incredibly versatile and adaptable meat, and tastes great in all sorts of dishes and by using all kinds of cooking methods.

Ninety percent of the pork we use are local, and come from Wah Kee farm in the New Territories. The farm uses minimal antibiotics and no hormones on the pigs. The animals are also cage-free, and the feed is mixed onsite without toxins or pesticides.

Which cuts of pork are your favourites? I have to say the pork hock is my all time favourite, just because of the flavour and texture that you get from slowly breaking down meat that has a lot of connective tissue. Pork shoulder is also delicious and ideal for roasting because of the marbling. In beef, sirloin and ribeye are classified as prestige cuts. What would be the equivalent in pork? Pork loin would probably be considered a prestige cut, probably because you can’t find much of it in a pig. However, I find it quite a boring cut of meat as it doesn’t have much flavour and if you don’t cook it well, can be dry and tough. 24

what a pig

What compelled you to open a pork-centric restaurant in a city that really knows its pork? Were you worried that your pork dishes would’t match up to local taste buds? On my visit to Hong Kong, I really fell in love with the flavour of the pork here and the many ways that pork is used in traditional Cantonese dishes. Although we are a Western restaurant, we have plenty of dishes that resonate local flavours, such as our barbecue pork bun and steamed pork dumplings.

What are the differences between Western and Chinese styles of pork butchery? Western butchers will age the pork for a week to ten days in order for the meat to relax and intensify in flavour. Chinese butchers seem to just hack up the meat in no particular order or with any particular care. The meat is literally still warm from the recent kill and it’s already been hacked up and sold!

What is the main difference between butchering a pig and cow?

Did you know...

The term “sweating like a pig” is terribly misleading, since pigs do not possess sweat glands. They love rolling in mud since this moderates their body temperatures.

facebook.com/foodiehk // march 2016

Size is the major difference, as there’s a lot more cuts to beef since the animal is bigger. The joints are larger, and so is the torso, so there’s a lot more fancy terms used when it comes to beef. Pigs are much easier to butcher due to its relative smaller size, although when it comes down to it, both cattle and pigs have the same basic structure. It’s just about following the seams of an animal in order to take it apart.

“Roast suckling pig & noodles @ Wah Fung on Wellington St.” by benketaro, flickr, is licensed under CC BY 2.0

what a pig

Chef Patrick Chan The Brief: With over 40 years of experience in the kitchen, Chef Patrick Chan knows a thing or two about the art of Chinese cookery. Prior to his appointment in 2015 as the Chief Instructor at the Chinese Culinary Institute, he was the Head Chef at Zi Yat Heen, a renowned two-starred Michelin Chinese restaurant within the Four Seasons Macau.

What are the prized cuts in Chinese cookery? What are the main differences between Western and Chinese styles of pork butchery? Although all the various cuts are delicious and well-suited for a range of dishes, the prized One of the key differences is time. Westerncuts will be those that come in small quantities, style butchery requires “hanging” the butchered animals in a cold room for up to seven days, which such as the lean ‘sai see’ bone (西施骨) near the shoulder and the pork shank (豬展). allows the natural enzymes to tenderise and enhance the flavour of the meat. Chinese cuisine emphasises freshness, so the pig is processed and cooked as soon as possible. Western butchers will disassemble the pig into various parts before selling, while Chinese butchers will divide the Did you know... entire pig at the meat stalls, and often, according to the customer’s preference. In terms of the various cuts, the key difference can be found in size. Western dishes often call for larger cuts of meat, while Chinese dishes require smaller pieces that can be easily eaten with chopsticks. 26

Pigs have a tremendous sense of smell, and are excellent truffle hunters since the natural sex hormones of the male pig smells similar to the expensive fungi.

what a pig

Did you know... Pigs are extraordinarily intelligent, and through research, Professor Donald Broom of the Veterinary School at Cambridge University has concluded that pigs have cognitive abilities equal to those of dogs and three-year-olds!

concoction of sugar and vinegar is then rubbed onto the skin, and the entire pig is air-dried before being slowly roasted with salt. The belly should be roasted first before the back, and this traditional method requires plenty of time, skill and patience. How does the Chinese “age” pork? Although Chinese cuisine is all about freshness, pork can be preserved and its flavour intensified through the process of air-drying. Dried Yunnan ham, cured with natural salts, is a famous and very prestigious ingredient in the Chinese culinary world. Chinese sausage is another staple and adds immense flavour and texture to any dish. A good quality sausage is made up of pork loin with a bit of belly fat. In Chinese cuisine, which cuts of pork are best suited for specific dishes? Briefly speaking, pork loin, because of its tenderness, is great for steaming, or for making char siu (barbecue pork) and meat patties. Pork belly (五花腩) is fantastic for braising, thanks to the layers of flavourful fat, while the leg and shank, which have less fat, are perfect for soups. The ribs (一字排) do well in both stews as well as in steamed dishes.

A true suckling pig should be between two to six weeks of age at the time of slaughter. The pig is first marinated with a mixture of salt, fermented bean paste (nam yue), shallots and garlic before a quick dip in boiling water to shrink the skin. A

Three main types of knives are used when it comes to butchery. A slicer (片刀) for cutting thin pieces of meat, a utility knife (文武刀) for chopping, and a Chinese bone knife (骨刀) for cleaving through bone. What is your favourite cut of pork? Personally, I enjoy a healthy diet so I prefer the ‘sai see’ bone, which has less fat. What are your personal views on Westernstyle pork butchery? There is no “best” method to butchering a pig, it all depends on which cutting style suits the demand for a particular dish or cooking style. Western and Chinese methods of animal butchery uses different techniques, but both share a common goal; to show respect and make the best use of each part of the pig.

facebook.com/foodiehk // march 2016

The suckling pig is a cornerstone of Cantonese cuisine, can you share with us the secrets behind the making of this delicious piggy?

What types of knives are used in Chinese style butchery?

Festival Flavours Taste, the renowned restaurant festival, plants its first Asian foray firmly into the grounds of Hong Kong’s Central Harbourfront Taste Festival is now celebrated in 22 destinations internationally, from Paris, London, Rome and Dubai to Sydney, Toronto and Cape Town, becoming one of the world’s most exciting food fests. Hong Kong will now be among Taste’s list of chosen turf with the festival taking place from the 10th to 13th of March to celebrate the city’s exceptional food culture. More than 40 signature dishes, some of which are one-off festival creations, will form a premium menu served by 12 of Hong Kong’s best restaurants, and attracting food fanatics from all over town. “A variety of the city’s favourites will be presented in one location for the ultimate dining experience,” says Simon Wilson, Event Director of IMG Culinary Asia.

We spoke with some of the chefs being featured at this year’s Taste to find out more about this fab food fest:

facebook.com/foodiehk // march 2016

Acclaimed local chefs and culinary celebrities (as well as a few international ones) will be featured cooking up their fine fare, as well as offering masterclasses, selling a selection of artisinal products and interacting with festival-goers with various food and wine attractions. Described as “the most serious, indulgent and exciting food festival” by none other than threeMichelin star winner and world-renowned chef Heston Blumenthal, the festival promises to show case the best of HK’s dining scene.

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Duddell’s Siu Hin Chi: Nowadays people are more aware of food and health. There is more and more people asking for vegetarian dishes, they also ask for less oil, less seasoning, no additives and no preservatives. It is all about bringing out the natural flavours of produce using the right seasoning, and combining various ingredients to enrich the flavours, and that is what we are doing at Duddell’s. Good food is not only about the taste, it is also about its effects on our body. We are honoured to be part of the founding line-up and excited to show the guests authentic Cantonese cuisine, which is the root of Hong Kong. Arcane’s Shane Osborn: Taste is all about enjoyment, we are there to have fun and provide delicious food for the visitors, there is no competition just pressure to deliver in the same way we do in our restaurants as expectations will be high. Taste of Hong Kong will have its own flavour as it will feature some of HK’s top Chinese restaurants plus western establishments with local influences making HK taste a truly unique experience. Tin Lung Heen’s Paul Pau Ping Lui: It will be a fantastic opportunity to showcase our signature dishes in one event and most importantly, the guests will experience our three signature dishes directly at the event. It is crucial for us to also promote the best of our culinary heritage not only to the people in Hong Kong but around the world. Hong Kong is a “food paradise” and we want to showcase a diverse range of exquisite food to our customers. Amber’s Richard Ekkebus: I think every Taste reflects its hosting city so HK as one of the main food capitals in the world will not disappoint, it will showcase the city’s quality and diversity.

Tickets start at $138 for weekdays and $168 for weekend sessions with 200 VIP passes starting from $598 and going fast. For more details, visit: hongkong.tastefestivals.com.

twitter.com/foodiehk // march 2016

TICKETS

The Truth About Oils The good, the bad, and the ugly in the world of edible oils

Certified nutritionist Tanja Guigon-Rech of Nutrition Nation clears up some of the confusion surrounding the health benefits and dangers of cooking with certain oils and fats

Saturated vs. unsaturated

Carcinogens

We follow a simple rule of thumb to differentiate saturated from non saturated fats. Saturated fats are solid at room temperature, while unsaturated fats are liquid at room temperature. Saturated fats mean that the bonds are filled with hydrogen molecules, whereas unsaturated fats have double bonds and don’t contain hydrogen molecules.

Firstly, what does the word carcinogenic mean? It means that the food you eat contains more toxins or free radicals than recommended. An abundance of free radicals can alter cells and turn them carcinogenic.

Unless you have pre-existing heath conditions, you can eat a balanced diet of different fats and oils – saturated as well as unsaturated. If you eat too much of one, you will be overly exposed to one certain fat, which eventually leads to an imbalance and possible health problems. Too much unsaturated fat may lead to an imbalance in your omega 3-6 fatty acids, which in turn makes you prone to inflammation or other diseases. Too much saturated fat is said to increase the cholesterol level (which is not the whole truth about cholesterol but it’s certainly not recommended to rely on saturated fats exclusively). Coconut oil for example, contains mostly saturated fats. However, it also provides many health benefits and it may even positively influence the structure of your bad cholesterol. As long as you don’t over consume coconut oil, don’t be scared to use it. Olive oil is said to lower cholesterol levels and act as an antiinflammatory. It contains more unsaturated fatty acids than saturated fats.

Oils have a very fragile chemical structure and some oils change their chemical setup under heat. Certain oils are more heat sensitive than others and those with a low heat resistance turn carcinogenic with small changes in temperature. That’s not good news for Hong Kong, as it’s generally pretty hot here. For example, flax seed oil is extremely healthy when it’s unrefined and

So, how do we determine whether or not oil is carcinogenic?

cold pressed. However, it needs to be stored in the fridge as it can actually begin to develop free radicals at room temperature. Another great example is margarine. The ideal component for many “low fat diets” is known to be full of free radicals! Think about it, what is margarine made of? Vegetable oil. Is vegetable oil solid in room temperature? No, so why is margarine? The answer is simple. The chemical structure of the oil has been altered and now contains free radicals. It is a well-known fact in the health industry, but unfortunately the food industry is making too much money with margarine to stop all of the unhealthy products out there. There may be a few brands on the market that are better than others but our general rule of thumb is: stay away from margarine. The more heat stable an oil is, the better it is for cooking or baking. That doesn’t mean that you should omit all of these healthy, yummy, more heat sensitive oils. It just means that you should add them to your salads rather than using them when you are cooking, frying or baking.

Oil Overview Oils with a lower smoking point: • Flax seed oil • Cold-pressed walnut oil •

Olive oil (most olive oil varieties have a medium stable heat resistance)

Oils with a more stable smoking point: • Coconut oil • Butter • Avocado oil • High-quality refined sunflower oil

You want to ensure you have three different oils in your cupboard; coconut oil for high heat or raw treats, olive oil for salad or drizzling flavour on top of your food and a high-quality refined vegetable oil for high heat cooking. You can use butter or ghee for baking or frying on occasion as well. This will ensure a good mix of oils and produce a meal free of toxins (at least the toxins that may come from oils that is). Why do we need a mix? Can we not just use butter or coconut oil for everything? In nutrition, the secret is that there is no secret. If we eat one sided, we may be overly exposed to certain ingredients and lack others. If you just stick to coconut oil or butter, you are missing oils with different fatty acids and heath benefits and are overly exposed to saturated fats. Therefore, you may want to look into a healthy balance of different oils and then you can enjoy a variety of oils and fats. And variety is the spice of life! What is the lesson here? Don’t be scared to eat oils and fats but try to ensure a healthy mix with your oil intake! To function properly, we need fats – saturated as well as unsaturated. Enjoy a balanced diet, and that includes a healthy mix of oils and fats.

www.afoodieworld.com // march 2016

Note: that this is only a short overview to give you a better understanding. There are many other oils and different smoking points to mention but the important point to remember is: only use oils of highquality with a high smoking point for frying or baking. If you like to add olive oil to your soup, how about waiting until you’ve cooked it and simply drizzling it over top?

In your larder

FOODIE FORAYS

Hanoi

In this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Foodie Forays, Keshia Hannam explores the ever-changing city of Hanoi, Vietnam

This media trip was sponsored by Travolor; a newly established Asian travel company who provide everything from flights to accommodation to tours. All accommodation, tours and activities organised through Travolor as part of the Hanoi Affordable Luxury 34Package $5,800 per person (price varies according to dates).

foodie forays

DAY 1 When the sirens went off at Hanoi’s historic Metropole hotel in December 1972, American folk singer Joan Baez and other guests scampered across a garden and down into an underground bunker that would only be unearthed in 2011–nearly 40 years later. It’s tidbits like those that make Hanoi an incredibly compelling city. Though starkly different to the more lively Ho Chi Min in the south, what Hanoi lacks in outrageous nightlife, it makes up for in memorable street food and a subtle French elegance. Given the city is a little sleepier than others, it’s best to gorge yourself on local eats like the ones we tried out here: Arrive 3pm to Hanoi Noi Bai International Airport. Travel via airport transfer to Metropole Hotel Hanoi, member of Sofitel Hotels, located in city centre near Grand Place. 5:30pm

Street Food Tour Meet at Metropole Hotel Lobby at 5:30pm. Tour ends around 8:30pm.

www.afoodieworld.com // march 2016

The best way to learn about a culture is through its cuisine, so gear up for a leisurely street food tour in the old quarter of Hanoi. A 20 minute walk from the hotel will see you to the first step of Vietnamese spring rolls and homemade fish sauce. Carry on to try wedding cake, bap xao tom kho (Vietnamese stir-fry corn and dried shrimp), some doughnuts that taste like they’ve been cooked in seaweed oil (avoid) and then take a pit stop from all the strenuous eating at “International Beer Corner” to grab a cold one and a plate of Vietnamese sausage. Next on the tour is pho ga (chicken soup). This is the real deal–deeply savoury soup, tender noodles and punchy chilli sauce. Bun cha was the absolute hero of the night, however; this Hanoi dish consists of grilled pork meatballs served with

fresh lettuce and herbs, vermicelli and dipping sauces. It’s one of the tastiest things you might ever put in your mouth.

foodie forays

DAY 2

Mi 25. This is in the Temple of Confucius and hosts the “Imperial Academy”, Vietnam’s first national university. The temple was built in 1070 and inside you will stumble upon (and hopefully not into) a pond known as the ‘Well of Heavenly Clarity’ as well as a low-slung pagoda and statues of Confucius and his disciples. Temple of Literature P Quoc Tu Giam, +84 4 4 3845 2917 3:30pm

9:00am Breakfast at the Metropole’s Spice Garden is an anxiety-inducing affair if you like good food. A steady stream of piping hot coffee comes to the table as you pick your way through outstanding pastries, made-to-order eggs and enough exotic fruits to start a tiki-lounge. Spice Garden Metropole Hotel Hanoi, 15 Ngô Quyen, Hoàn Kiem, 010000, +84 4 3826 6919 sofitel-legend.com/hanoi 10:00am Explore three foundational landmarks of Vietnam’s capital, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, One Pillar Pagoda, and the Presidential Palace. All sit on the same property so catching a taxi from the hotel to the site is the best bet. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Hùng Vuong, Đien Biên, Ba Đình, +84 4 3845 5128, bqllang.gov.vn 12:30pm Of the many spots to grab a banh mi, Bánh Mì 25 has the reputation as the best. Order the chicken and the pork special. Both sandwiches come with paté, cucumbers, carrots, and a touch of chilli. The chicken was a chopped up honey grilled thigh while the second offering was three different kinds of pork, both served on a fresh baguette. Banh Mi 25 36 Hàng Cá, Hàng Đào 1:30pm Once the banh mi fuel is coursing through the veins, continue on to the Temple of Literature; a half hour walk or eight minute drive from Banh 36

A ten minute stroll away is Cong Caphe, a hipster coffee joint that makes a decidedly addictive coconut iced coffee, which is precisely as delicious as it sounds. Cong Caphe 32 Đien Biên Phu, Hoàn Kiem 6:30pm For dinner, grab a dish called xôi thap cam. It’s a bowl of sticky rice, covered with shaved mung beans, fried onions, and chicken fat drizzled over top. Order smaller dishes like stewed pork, sauteed paté, fried eggs, braised eggs and Chinese sausage to accompany. The crunchy vinegar pickles that come complimentary are the perfect balance to the rich flavour of the rice/meat combination. No one speaks English here, so there’s a lot of pointing and gesturing. Warning: You will feel very full afterwards. #riceexpands Xôi Yen 35 Nguyen Huu Huân, Lý Thái To, Hoàn Kiem

DAY 3 11:00am Wander around the lake and do a spot of people watching as runners, children, cart pushers and the elderly all make the shuffle around the landmark pond in the middle of the Old Quarter. Meander over to the Cho Đong Xuân markets where Hanoi culture is seen at its most authentic. The ladies eat together, the men gamble and the children wear chicken suits as they amble down the crowded side lanes on scooters. This is a great place to buy coffee mugs, lacquer goods and a lot of sneakers. Stop by for egg coffee at Cà Phê Giang. Yes, egg coffee. It’s as weird as it sounds but oh so delicious. Think Vietnamese coffee, with an egg stirred inside. A creamy, eggy, sweet treat; if you are into coffee, custard, or both, this is that, together, in one cup.

Mido Spa 26 Hang Manh Str | Hoan Kiem Dist, Old Quarter +84 4 3828 5588, midospa.com 3:00pm If ‘chocolate buffet’ isn’t the most formidable afternoon activity we’re not sure what else would cut it. The Metropole puts on a delicious spread everyday from 3pm using high quality artisan products from Europe. Hop between a mousse to a financier, an opera cake and then over to the sinfully thick hot chocolate to finish your tour. Chocolate Buffet at Le Club at the Metropole Hotel 15 Ngô Quyen, Hoàn Kiem, +84 4 3826 6919 sofitel-legend.com/hanoi

Giang Cafe 39 Nguyen Heu Huân, Lý Thái To, Hoàn Kiem Massage time! ‘When in Rome, get a massage’ we’re pretty sure is how the saying goes and the same is applied here. The best massage in Hanoi is said to come from Mido Spa which is on the north-west side of the lake in the middle of Old Quarter. Selling points are great prices for the quality and friendly service.

facebook.com/foodiehk // march 2016

12:30pm

The Event impress the client Yalun Tu show us how to seal the deal (the business deal that is) at THE STEAK HOUSE

For those of you who haven’t followed The Event, we’ve tackled such tricky subjects as where to take a potentially special someone on a first, second, and third date, as well as that definitely special someone when you’re meeting the parents, and that other special someone who lives and breathes food as much as you. That’s a lot of special someones. Let’s break it up this month with where to impress that special client. You want their business, right? So stop messing around and head to THE STEAK HOUSE. THE STEAK HOUSE. ALL CAPS. Good name right? It’s simple, straightforward, and describes it perfectly: you’re going to come here and get a great steak. Because while a great client dinner must have great food, you’re there to enjoy it but not to Instagram it or “mmmmmm” it as you look around for approval from your foodie friends at how in sync your taste buds are. For my dinner, I started as all client dinners must – with alcohol. We headed to the bar and ordered martinis, the only drink you should order on these types of occasion. Wine waits for dinner and Old Fashioneds are too kitschy, but a classic martini goes with a classic dinner in a classic steak house. Or STEAK HOUSE as the case of caps may be. I had 38

vodka, the client had gin. That’s okay. We’re both getting tipsy in a beautiful place. Next comes the table. That’s the first check mark for the STEAK HOUSE: the view. The restaurant sits on the water with a full view of the Hong Kong skyline, but at ground level - and that is important. High above the cloud dinners are birthday party, and oh-my-god-he’s-getting-on-one-knee type of places. Business dinners are nuts and bolts, roll up your sleeves, check out Hong Kong places. We grabbed a dinner menu and got to work.

This brings me to my third order of business at the business dinner (refresher tips: 1. Order booze, 2. Get a seat with a nice, non-romantic view): and then order way too much. Now is not the time for restraint so hit up the appetisers and the STEAK HOUSE has some damn good ones. I got the prawn cocktail, the crab cake “New Orleans” style, and the beef tenderloin steak tartare (meat squared!). The prawn cocktail actually looked like the promo pictures instead of the anemic seafood one often receives. Large, meaty shrimp lined the glass with a delicious sauce that had just the right amount of tang. It tasted fresh and succulent (yes, you can still use that word in food journalism) and I ignored the tomatoes and lettuce bedding, following the same principle of not to fill up on bread at a buffet with oysters.

The beef tenderloin steak tartare on the other hand melted in my mouth. I’m now upset at myself since I was going to use that statement for the steak, but oh well, I’m still thinking about that tartare. It was cold and refreshing with chips (they’re not crisps they’re chips go USA! USA!) that provided a nice crunch without

PS: They let us choose our own mustards and knives. It was pretty dope. Below is a pic: The STEAK HOUSE WINEBAR + GRILL InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Kowloon, 2313 2323

www.afoodieworld.com // march 2016

The “New Orleans” style crab cake was giant and expertly breaded, which is shockingly hard since many restaurants often screw this up. It was easy to cut and easy to share. It also could have been more flavourful, though I did like the tartar sauce.

overwhelming the taste with saltiness. Then the steak came. I could write a glowing steak review (and I often do to myself in the middle of the night when I wake with steak fevered dreams) but it was scrumptious. I got a USDA long bone rib that was waaay too big for me but good for shock and awe and perfect for client dinners. It melted in my mouth, was tender where it needed to be on the inside, and held just the right amount of charring and butter to give it that smoky taste. I even chewed the fat and, I believe, commented on the phrase “chewing the fat” as a business analogy. Maybe art imitates life imitates business. I didn’t try anyone else’s steak – it’s a client dinner, you don’t do that, rule #4 – but they all got rave reviews, so choose at your fancy. We ate and drank too much red wine and talked about the crappy stock market, trade flows, and how good the steaks were. At the end I felt like we had gotten to know each other better and continued our joint work in the future. So I recommend The STEAK HOUSE for the spot to impress a client. Apparently sharing steaks leads to breaking bread.

recipes

Pies, Pies, Glorious Pies! R.J.Asher of Tai Tai Pie Pies shares six of his recipes for the most delicious golden crusted savoury and sweet eats you will ever encounter www.taitaipiepies.com

recipes

Pie Crust Method Each recipe has slightly different measurements but the method stays the same 1.

For the crust, mix the dry ingredients in a medium-sized mixing bowl. Add the butter into the mixture and then proceed to cut the butter into the flour mixture. Use a pastry cutter or two knives to cut the mixture until it resembles small peas. Add two to three tbsp. of cold water and gather up the mixture using your hands to form small clumps. Continue adding water until the mixture gathers into a ball, BUT, be very careful not to add too much water. If making pies with tops, divide the dough into two pieces; one larger for the bottom and a smaller one for the top crust. If just making the base, leave the dough whole. Flatten into round discs, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes.

ALL AMERICAN APPLE PIE Prep time: 1 hr Baking time: 50 mins Yields: 8 - 12 slices

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Ingredients: Double 12 inch Crust • 375g all-purpose flour • ½ tsp salt • 30g sugar • 225g cold unsalted butter • ½ cup ice-cold water For Pie Filling • 6 apples, peeled and sliced into ¼” apple slices (preferably Granny Smith apples) • 150g sugar • 25g flour • ¾ tsp cinnamon • ¼ tsp nutmeg • 15g butter (added on top before the top crust is placed over apples) • milk, to glaze • granulated sugar for sprinkling

Method 1. Make dough using the Pie Crust Method above and pre-heat oven to 190°C. 2. In a large bowl, mix the apples with the sugar, flour, cinnamon and nutmeg and set aside. 3. Roll the larger ball of dough out on a floured surface and transfer to a 9-inch pie dish and trim the edge so that it is around a ½ - ¾ inch larger. Fill the pie with the apple slices, add the butter on top and set aside. 4. Roll the top layer and place on top of the apples. Trim the edges so that the top and the bottom are the same. Roll the edges under and then crimp the pie crust either with a fork or using your thumb and index fingers. Add small slits to the top crust to allow steam to escape and then brush the top with milk and sprinkle a little sugar on top. 5. Place the pie in the oven for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, reduce the temperature to 175°C and continue baking for 30-35 minutes until golden brown on top. 6. Remove when done and cool on a pie rack.

recipes

COCONUT BANANA CREAM PIE Prep time: 45 mins Cooking time: 30 mins Yields: 8 - 12 slices

Ingredients: 12 inch Crust • 185g all-purpose flour • ¼ tsp salt • 15g sugar • 110g cold unsalted butter • ¼ cup ice-cold water For Pie Filling • 150g sugar • 50g cornstarch • ¼ tsp salt • 720ml milk • 3 egg yolks, slightly beaten • 15g butter • 1 tsp vanilla • 50g sweetened shredded coconut (more if you are a coconut-addict) • 2 bananas cut into slices (more if you are a crazy banana) For Whipped Cream • 475ml whipping cream • 60g icing sugar • handful of sweetened shredded coconut, toasted Method: 1. Make dough using the Pie Crust Method (p. 41) and pre-heat the oven to 200°C. 2. Once chilled, roll out the dough to an 1/8-inch thick round piece. Put the bottom pie dough in a pie shell, roll the edges and crimp. 3. Prick the bottom of the pie shell with a fork and line with parchment paper. To ‘blind bake’ the pastry base, weigh down the parchment paper with dried beans, baking weights or even coins. The ideas is to keep the pie dough from puffing up during baking. 4. Bake the pie shell for 8 minutes, then remove the parchment paper and weights and bake for another 6 minutes or until golden in colour. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. 5. Mix sugar, cornstarch and salt in a saucepan. 42

Gradually stir in the milk. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and boils. Let the mixture boil for 1 minute and remove from the heat. Gradually stir at least half of the hot mixture into the beaten egg yolks. Whisk until smooth and slowly add the egg mixture back into the saucepan with the remaining milk. Be careful to keep stirring at this point to prevent the mixture turning into scrambled eggs. Heat and stir the mixture for around 1 minute and remove from the heat. Mix in butter and vanilla and fold in the shredded coconut. Carefully fold in banana slices and pour immediately into the baked pie shell, set aside and let cool. For the whipped cream, beat the cream until thick and gradually add the sugar and whip until peaks form. Pile the whipped cream onto the pie filling. Swirl and make a pointy decorative top and finish with a sprinkle of toasted sweetened shredded coconut. Cool in the refrigerator.

TIP: Not to be confused with desiccated coconut, shredded coconut pieces are larger in size. You can find shredded coconut in larger supermarkets in Hong Kong.

recipes

CREAMY CHICKEN AND MUSHROOM PIE Prep time: 1½ hrs Baking time: 50 mins Yields: 8 - 10 slices

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Ingredients: Double 12 inch Crust: • 375g all-purpose flour • ½ tsp salt • 225g cold unsalted butter • ½ cup ice-cold water For Pie Filling: • 2 tbsp olive oil • 600g chicken breast, cubed • Freshly ground black peppercorns to taste • Salt to taste • 1 large onion, chopped • 15g butter • 250g button mushrooms, chopped • 4 tbsp thyme, chopped • 45g plain flour • 500ml chicken stock • 250ml milk • 15g flour (extra for thickening if needed) • 2 tbsp parsley chopped • 1 beaten egg, to glaze

Method: 1. Make dough using the Pie Crust Method (p. 41). 2. For the filling, heat the oil in a large pot. Season the chicken with pepper and salt and fry. Turn continuously for around 5-7 minutes until golden brown. Remove and set aside. 3. Add the chopped onions to the pot and sauté in butter until tender. Add the mushrooms and thyme and fry over a high heat for 3 minutes, until the onion starts to colour. 4. Add the flour and cook, stirring continuously for 1 minute. Remove the pan from heat and gradually whisk in the stock, then the milk. 5. Add the chicken back to the pan, bring to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes - add extra flour if needed. To finish, add the parsley and let cool. 6. Preheat the oven to 190°C and roll half of the dough out to line the bottom of the pie dish. 7. Put the chicken mixture into the pie dish and cover with the rest of the pastry. Gently press the edges together and crimp the edges. 8. Brush with the egg glaze, make a couple of small slits in the pastry to allow steam to escape while cooking and bake for 15 minutes. 9. Reduce the heat to 175°C and bake for 35 minutes until the pastry is golden brown and filling is bubbling.

recipes

STEAK, KIDNEY AND MUSHROOM PIE 4. Prep time: 3½ hrs plus overnight chilling Baking time: 50 mins Yields: 8 - 10 slices

Ingredients: Double 12 inch Crust: • 375g all-purpose flour • ½ tsp salt • 225g cold unsalted butter • ½ cup ice-cold water For Pie Filling: • 500g veal kidneys • white vinegar or lemon juice • 600g Angus sirloin (trimmed of fat) • 1 ½ tbsp all-purpose flour • 1 ½ tbsp olive oil • 1 tbsp unsalted butter • 1 medium onion, halved and sliced • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 250g button mushrooms, diced • 3 tbsp Worcestershire sauce • 2 tbsp Lousiana Red Hot Sauce (1 tbsp if you are not into heat) • 3 tbsp tomato paste • 1 tbsp dried thyme • 500ml beef stock • 2 tbsp additional flour to thicken • 1 beaten egg, to glaze Method: 1. Make dough using the Pie Crust Method (p. 41). 2. Make a cut in the membrane of the kidneys, remove and discard. Slice the kidneys in half, lengthwise, cut out and discard the round lump of white fat in the centre of each kidney. Rinse the kidneys thoroughly under cool running water and cut each into 1-1 ½ inch chunks. 3. Fill a large bowl with cold water and add a small amount of white vinegar or lemon juice with a pinch of salt. Put the kidneys into the

10.

11. 12.

13.

water and allow them to soak for two hours. Cut the sirloin into 1-inch cubes and season the meat with salt and pepper. Toss in half of the flour to coat it. Drain the kidneys in a colander and pat try with some kitchen towel. Season with salt, pepper and toss in the rest of the flour. In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil over high heat until very hot and almost smoking. Carefully add the beef and kidneys in batches to seal the edges, making sure all sides of the meat are browned. Set the browned meat aside and do not clean out the pan. Turn the heat down to medium-high and add the butter. When it is melted, add the onions and garlic and sauté until they are translucent. Add the mushrooms and brown slightly. Stir in the Worcestershire, hot sauce, tomato paste and thyme and then add beef stock,stirring constantly until it thickens. Bring to a boil and cook for about 5 minutes. (You can add more flour to thicken more if needed.) Place steak and kidney in the filling and season with salt and pepper to taste. Place a lid on top and place in a 150°C oven and bake about 90 minutes until meat is tender. Let cool and refrigerate overnight. Roll half of the dough out and line the bottom of the pie dish. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Fill the dish with the all the solid ingredients and as much gravy to cover them and top it with the pastry crust. Crimp the edges and make slits to allow steam to escape. Bake the pie for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 175°C and bake for 35-40 minutes or until the filling is bubbling and the crust is golden brown. Cool for 20 minutes at room temperature before serving.

TIP: You can cut out little shapes with extra dough to show what kind of pie it is. We’ve got little cows on this one for our steak and kidney. 45

recipes

SPINACH, ARTICHOKE AND FETA QUICHE Prep time: 1 hr Baking time: 55 mins Yields: 8 - 10 slices

Ingredients: Rich 12 inch Shortcrust: • 170g all-purpose flour • a pinch of kosher salt • 100g cold unsalted butter, cubed • 1 egg yolk • 2 tbsp ice cold water For Pie Filling: • 25g butter • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, halved and sliced length wise • pinch salt • ½ tsp sugar • 150g frozen spinach drained and finely chopped • 150g canned artichoke hearts drained and finely chopped • 150ml whole milk • 150ml whipping cream • 3 beaten eggs • 150g feta cheese crumbled • salt and pepper to taste Method: 1. For a rich shortcrust, put the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add the butter and cut into small pieces into the flour. With your fingers, rub the butter and flour mixture to resemble breadcrumbs. If the butter gets warm, place in the refrigerator to harden up. 2. Whisk the egg yolk with cold water and gently mix in to the flour with your hands to form an even coloured dough that is very soft. Flatten to a disc shape 1/2 inch thick and wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. 3. Roll the pastry out and lay in a 9-inch pie dish. Crimp the edge and freeze for 10 minutes. 4. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C and prick the crust with a fork. Place a sheet of crumpled greaseproof paper in the center and fill with 46

pie weights (beans, rice or coins) to avoid it from puffing up. 5. Place the pastry dish in the top third of the oven and bake for 10 minutes or until the sides look cooked through. 6. Remove the pie weights and place the pastry dish in the middle of the oven for another 8 minutes or until the bottom is pale golden brown. Coat the bottom holes with egg yolk and bake for 2 more minutes. This prevents the mixture from leaking. 7. Remove and place on a cooling rack. Reduce the temperature to 175°C. 8. For the filling, melt the butter in the olive oil in a small saucepan then add the onion and salt and sauté until tender. Add the sugar and cook until golden brown and caramelized. Add in the spinach and artichoke hearts and cook for a few minutes. Remove and let cool. 9. Mix together the milk, cream, eggs and stir into the spinach mixture. Season to taste. 10. Sprinkle the feta cheese in the bottom of the pie shell evenly. 11. Pour the mixture over the feta and place in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 160°C for 30 minutes or until the filling is set and centre is fully baked. Serve warm or cold. TIP: If the bottom crust puffs up during baking, use the back of a spoon and press the crust down gently.

TART CHERRY BOURBON PIE Prep time: 1½ hrs Baking time: 55 mins Yields: 8 - 10 slices

Method: 1. Make dough using the Pie Crust Method (p. 41). 2. Drain the cherries, reserving some of the liquid. In a large saucepan combine 150g of

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Ingredients: 12 inch Crust with Lattice • 375g all-purpose flour • ½ tsp salt • 30g sugar • 225g cold unsalted butter • ½ cup ice-cold water For Pie Filling: • 1.4l cans of pitted tart red cherries (packed in water) • 300ml cherry juice (reserved from cans) • 200g sugar • pinch of kosher salt • 50g cornstarch • 50ml your favourite bourbon • 20g butter • 1 tbsp orange juice • 2 tsp orange zest

the sugar, salt and the cornstarch. Stir in the reserved cherry liquid. Cook and stir over medium heat until it starts to thicken. Add the bourbon and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring continuously. Remove from heat. Stir in the butter, orange juice and zest. Add the cherries and let cool slightly. Pre-heat the oven to 190°C and roll out the bigger half of the pastry to line the tin and fill with the cherry mixture. For a lattice top, roll the remaining pastry out to a 12 inch circle as if you were making a top crust. Using the rolling pin as a straight edge and a pastry cutter, slice about 14 to 16 even strips about ½ inches to ¾ inch wide. Now begin from the one edge of the pie and then perpendicular to that strip, layer the strips into a lattice. You do not need to use all the strips as it depends on the width and how far apart you lay them. When you are all done, trim to the width of the crust and roll the edges under then crimp as usual for a top crust pie. Bake for 25 minutes. Then lower the temperature to 175°C and bake for a further 25 to 30 minutes until the crust is golden brown. Cool on a wire rack before serving.

meatless monthly

Cindy Lam from ms food division cooks delicious vegetarian recipes that support local farms and promote good old home cooking www.msfooddivision.com ARTICHOKE, SPINACH & CHEESE PASTA RECIPE Serves: 2 people Prep time: 10 mins Cooking time: 15 mins Ingredients:

•

150g farfalle

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1-2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

•

½ tsp dried chilli flakes

•

½ jar quartered artichokes

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1 handful spinach

•

1/3 cup cream

•

¼ vegetable stock

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½ cup mix grated cheese (I used scarmorza and parmesan)

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1-2 tbsp butter

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1 handful breadcrumbs

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1 small bunch fresh parsley, finely chopped

Method: 1. Cook pasta in a pot of boiling salted water until 1 minute before it becomes al dente. Reserve a small cup of the pasta water. 2. Preheat a saucepan with olive oil on medium heat. Cook the garlic and chilli flakes for 1 minute. Pay attention to not burn the garlic and reduce the heat if needed. 3. Add artichokes and spinach, cook for another 1-2 minutes. 4. Stir in cream and vegetable stock. Reduce the heat to medium-low with a lid on. Simmer the vegetables for about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and wait for the pasta to be ready. 5. Mix in the cooked pasta and a small ladle of the pasta water plus grated cheese for thickening the sauce on medium-low heat. 6. Add the butter and stir well. Turn the heat off. 7. Garnish with some freshly chopped parsley, grated parmesan, breadcrumbs, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil before serving.

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