FOODIE EXPLORERS Issue 1 : 2022
THIS ISSUE
Ubiquitous Chip The Black Bull 48 Foodie Hours in Newcastle Celtic Whisky Distillerie Italicus Fischer's Marvellous Marble Recipe
UBIQUITOUS CHIP GLASGOW The Ubiquitous Chip has been part of the fabric of Glasgow since 1971, originating in Ruthven Lane and then moving round to Ashton Lane as demand grew for its fresh and innovative style of Scottish cooking. In the age of Vesta ready meals in postindustrial Glasgow, this was a challenge. However, as you can see by reaching its 50th Birthday, The Ubiquitous Chip was much needed and inspired a resurgence of Scottish dining. This was one of the first places in the city which stated where the produce came from to emphasise the quality...not just bacon but Ramsay of Carluke bacon, this was unheard of...normally, you just had 'bacon' and that was that!
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Colin Clydesdale, Ronnie’s son, and Carol Wright reflect on the remarkable history and journey of Scotland’s original pioneer of provenance. The formative years of the Ubiquitous Chip made a lasting impression on the young Colin. “One of my earliest memories is of sitting on an old box in the storeroom at Ruthven Lane with my shipbuilder grandfather, around the age of five, eating soup. He put pepper in the soup and I was amazed at the difference such a light touch of this mysterious powder made to the taste of the soup. From such a humble moment, an instant and lasting intrigue to the possibilities of taste was sparked"
“He put pepper in the soup and I was amazed at the difference such a light touch of this mysterious powder made to the taste of the soup."
THE DETAILS Ubiquitous Chip 12 Ashton Lane Glasgow G12 8SJ ubiquitouschip.co.uk
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48 FOODIE HOURS IN NEWCASTLE
Discovering a city, or indeed cities (as Newcastle and Gateshead straddle opposite sides of the River Tyne and to the casual observer may appear as one and the same), through the food and drink offerings, is often the best way to explore. We immersed ourselves in the city trying a selection of restaurants, cafes and bars in a whirlwind fashion on two food tours within Newcastle. Everything in this guide took place over two days so if you find yourself with 48 hours in Newcastle, here is what you can do to make the most of your time. Newcastle is only an hour from Edinburgh and a mere 3 hours from London by LNER train so surprisingly quick to get to from both capital cities.
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Blackfriars Restaurant
THE ACCOMODATION Our accommodation for 48 hours in Newcastle was INNSiDE by Melia. We have stayed with this hotel group before in Majorca, where they are based. At their Newcastle hotel, you can buy local beer and wine (really made in Gateshead!), you can also kayak on the Tyne and cycle along the quayside. IINNSiDE by Melia is located on Newcastle's historic Quayside and has panoramic views of the River Tyne from the lounge and terrace area. The hotel is a short walk from Newcastle Railway Station and well situated for culture, shopping, and nights out.
THE FOOD TOURS We met with Triple A Food Tours for their Taste of Newcastle walking and eating tour. This was a fantastic excursion, with a balance of historical and foodie information. Sites visited included Grainger Market, a Grade I listed covered market which was constructed as part of the 19th-century redevelopment of the city to replace markets on the site of Grey Street. The market is home to perhaps the smallest branch of Marks & Spencer, an actual market stall known as Marks and Spencer's Original Penny Bazaar. In the market, we also sampled Indian street food, Lindisfarne oysters and locally-brewed beer from other stalls within the indoor market. All are included in the tour price. Next, we visited Blackfriars restaurant which claims to be the oldest dining room in the UK, here we had a terrine with a glass of wine. Then it was a short walk to Kaltur Wine Bar and Restaurant where we stopped for a sharing board of Spanish meats and cheeses with wine. To complete our tour we ate dessert at The French Quarter for a café gourmand trio of three puddings paired with three sweet wines.
The following day we embarked on another Triple A food tour, this time in the Ouseburn area of Newcastle, a 15-minute walk east along the quayside. Kiln Cafe was our first stop to sample two dishes from their brunch menu: one savoury; one sweet, alongside a glass of wine. We had the added bonus of going behind the scenes to meet resident potter Jun Rhee who explained his artistic ethos while displaying some of his new wares. We then moved next door to visit Brinkburn Street Brewery. This microbrewery has a varied and superb beer selection. We paired black pudding bonbons with a glass of beer. The Sunday lunch menu also looks tantalising with dishes such as lamb shoulder and beer-brined chicken. It was a short walk to Cookhouse. Chef Anna Hedworth started Cookhouse as a supper club with 'pop-ups' in a container. Now she has her own restaurant and has been featured in the Good Food Guide since 2016. An eclectic array of homemade pickles, fermented foods, meat and bread was provided for sharing. Washed down with another glass of wine. This is somewhere we will certainly return to for a longer visit. Finally, Ernest for pudding, which also included a glass fizz! We were stuffed but could just about manage an affogato and Ernest (Eton) Mess in this relaxing yet busy cafe bar.
THE FEAST We had some free time before dinner so made a quick visit to The Punch Bowl, a dog-friendly pub with an excellent selection of beer and wine. Then it was time for more food!. This time at Träkol by The River Brew Co perfectly situated under the iconic Tyne Bridge. Meaning charcoal in Swedish, due to the predominant means of cooking on charcoal. We shared one of the feast dishes - a huge 1.2kg T Bone Steak. Half a pig's head was the other feasting option. There are vegetable dishes on offer as well so it's not just a restaurant for meat eaters.
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THE DETAILS Newcastle Gateshead -newcastlegateshead.com LNER - lner.co.uk Triple-A Food Tours - tripleafoodtours.com INNSiDE by Melia - melia.com/en Trakol - bytheriverbrew.co/trakol
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THE BLACK BULL SEDBERGH Close enough to M6 junction 37 in Cumbria but far away enough to feel sufficiently out in the country. The award-winning Black Bull in Englandʼs official book town, Sedbergh (pronounced Sed-ber), is just outside the official boundary of the Lake District but within the Yorkshire Dales National Park so surrounded by hills and greenery for quiet country walks. Owners Nina Matsunaga and James Ratcliffe moved from Manchester to Sedbergh a number of years ago to open the wellregarded Three Hares cafe and as a result of that success, they then opened a restaurant with rooms, The Black Bull, on the opposite side of the main shopping street in town.
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THE ACCOMODATION Each room is named after a local hill and ours, Crook, was modern and spacious with an equally spacious glass-encased en-suite (donʼt worry, there are curtains to protect your modesty!). If youʼve been out walking, or you just fancy a soak, then there is a large rolltop bath in addition to the separate shower. Toiletries are provided by the local Sedbergh soap company and the bathroom window looks out onto Winfel fell, the hill immediately north of Sedbergh. Staff can help you plan any hill walking and there is also a Tourist Information office on the same street. Included in our bedroom were locally-made cookies. A fridge with fresh milk and an excellent selection of teas was just outside in the corridor. Three of the rooms are also dog-friendly which includes dog bowls and biscuits with furry friends allowed in the bar area, where you can also enjoy the food.
THE FOOD The menu changes often hence why itʼs a simple print out but for a single AA rosette restaurant, the dishes are quite bold with a few unusual food pairings. We started with nibbles - Spicy wild halibut beignet and crispy Thai spiced cauliflower. Then Teal, Isle of Wight tomato and sweetcorn, tender duck served with the amazing fresh flavours of Isle of Wight tomatoes, which we have had delivered to our home a few times before. Faggot, colcannon pickled blackberries This was proper winter food, meaty and wholesome with strong flavours. Wild Lakeland venison quince treacle and squash The venison was perfectly pink, with a strong liquorice treacle. The Cheeseboard: Parmesan; Lancashire cheese, goat cheese and sheep cheese. All were at room temperature and of excellent quality. Wye Valley Blueberry Financier, Douglas Fir Sorbet & Cobnut finished our meal on a sweet note.
THE DETAILS The Black Bull, 44 Main Street, Sedbergh, Cumbria, LA10 5BL theblackbullsedbergh.co.uk
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CELTIC WHISKY DISTILLERIE Whisky, a word synonymous with Scotland. So why was I in France surrounded by barrels of the stuff? There are actually a number of whisky distilleries in France and I was in Brittany in the Northwest, to sample Maison Villevertʼs Celtic Whisky Distillery's latest expression Gwalarn, which is their first blended whisky. Located in commune, are similar conditions life'.
the Côtes-d'Armor on the Pleubian where the climate and soft water to that of Scotland means that the are ideal for making the 'water of
Founded in 1997 by Martine and Jean Donnay, it was originally named Celtic Whisky Company. They produced two malts, one unpeated: Glann Ar Mor meaning 'beside the sea' in Breton; and the other peated: Kornog translating as 'westerly wind' in Breton. They founded the company because they love whisky and wanted to make their own in their homeland. Maison Villvert purchased the company in 2020, changing the name to Celtic Whisky Distillery. The whisky joined Maison Villevertʼs portfolio of brands including Gʼvine Nouaison gin, June gin liqueur, La Quintinye Vermouth Royal, La Guilde du Cognac and Excellia Tequila.
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Outside the distillery, I saw for myself that the conditions were very Scotland-like. A bit cold and wet, rugged, green and beautiful. Inside, there are two stills heated by an open flame. I think Glenfarclas are the only other whisky still doing this. I was then walked through the whiskymaking process with what must be the best view ever from a condenser!
As is typical with most Scottish whisky, their spirit is aged in ex-Bourbon casks, in a warehouse near the Brittany coast, which I was able to visit and here I saw casks of Glann ar Mor and Kornog, some in Sauternes, Olorosso and Pedro Ximinez casks. These are bottled from single casks, making them collectable limited editions. Part of the warehouse site has a shop and a visitor centre. Opening hours are Monday to Saturday 10 am to 12:30 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm. Tastings can be booked online via the Celtic Distillerie website. celtic-whisky-distillerie.fr
ITALICUS A REFRESHING TASTE OF ITALY ITALICUS is produced at a family-owned distillery, established in 1906 in Moncalieri, Torino. Each of the ingredients that goes into making ITALICUS are sourced from across Italy, including IGP bergamot from a UNESCO-protected area in Calabria; Cedro lemons from Sicily; chamomile from Lazio; and melissa balm, lavender, yellow roses and gentian from Northern Italy. ITALICUS was created by a world-class bartender and authority in Italian spirits, Giuseppe Gallo, using a combination of a recipe found in a book that dates back to the 1800s and his experience of his own familyʼs recipes. ITALICUS is best enjoyed in a classic Spritz with Prosecco or Champagne, or in a modern version of the Spritz, made with Grapefruit soda or tonic water. In a nod to the classic Italian tradition of Aperitivo hour, ITALICUS serves are garnished with three olives, to balance the floral aromas with a touch of saltiness.
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ITALICUS Signature Spritz 1 part (50ml) ITALICUS Rosolio di Bergamotto 2 parts (100ml) Prosecco (or Champagne) Build over ice cubes in a large wine glass Garnish with three green olives
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FISCHER'S LONDON
Visiting Fischer’s in Marylebone, London is like stepping into a Viennese coffee house. We visited for breakfast and will surely be back again to try more of the menu at Fischer’s. We visited Cafe Central in Vienna (famous for being the coffee spot over the years for Hitler, Sigmund Freud, Trotsky and more!) and this was just like being there, but without the throngs of tourists although, it probably gets very busy later in the day.
It would have been rude to visit a Viennese coffee house without having a coffee, so an 'einspänner' was ordered for the name alone! This is an Austrian speciality of two espresso shots topped with thick, fresh cream, which takes its name from the word for a horse-drawn carriage because it was designed to be drunk by horse coachmen who were still at the reins - the layer of cream would prevent the coffee from spilling if the horse made any sudden moves! Of course, a proper Austrian mountain breakfast ensued. Bacon Gröstl - paprika fried potatoes with onions and bacon, topped with a fried egg. Spicy with crispy potatoes with a gooey double fried egg yolk for dipping the potatoes into. We also enjoyed a lighter dish of grilled asparagus and crushed peas on rye with a poached egg. Beware that the eggs are warm atop chilled peas and asparagus. A healthy and filling breakfast but perhaps a bit too healthy start to the day for us but we would certainly get this again as the ingredients were fresh and worked well together.
THE DETAILS Fischer's 50 Marylebone High Street London W1U 5HN
020 7466 5501 Email - reservations@fischers.co.uk www.fischers.co.uk/
MESMIRISING MARBLE We've gathered a collection of our favourite marble and marble-inspired products to help you incorporate this chic staple into your space - check it out below!
Marble Jesmonite Small Chunky Tray, limelace.co.uk
The Marble One T & J Scents tandjscents.co.uk
Marble Wabi Sabi Teapot £49, cielshopinteriors.com
Marble Condiment Bowl and Brass Spoon .mondayonline.co.uk
Marble Wallpaper Mural - 'Orange Geode' available at wallsauce.com
RECIPE Scotch Beef PGI and Spinach Gnocchi - from Make it Scotch 400g Scotch Beef PGI steak mince, typically 5% fat 500g pack potato gnocchi 3 tbsp Scottish rapeseed oil 3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed Pinch sea salt 2 tsp dried oregano 500g passata 1 tbsp clear honey 200g baby spinach 2 ripe medium tomatoes, chopped Basil leaves to garnish Bring a saucepan of water to a boil and cook the gnocchi as directed on the pack. Drain, rinse well, then leave to air dry. Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp oil in a large frying pan until hot. Add the beef, two thirds of the garlic, salt and oregano and stir fry for 2 minutes until browned all over. Stir in the passata and honey, reduce to a simmer and cook gently, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes until tender and thickened. Turn off the heat. Stir the spinach leaves into the meat sauce in batches until well mixed, then cover and leave to stand whilst frying the gnocchi. Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan until hot. Add the gnocchi and stir fry for 5 minutes until lightly golden and crisp. Reduce the heat, add the remaining garlic and cook for a further minute. To serve, stir about a quarter of the gnocchi into the meat sauce and pile into warm serving bowls. Scatter the remaining gnocchi on top and serve sprinkled with chopped tomatoes and a few basil leaves.
THE BLACK BULL, SEDBERGH
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