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Nevis—A Destination of Its Own Design
Nevis—
A Destination of its Own Design
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By Amanda Finn
If you have manners, they can take you ‘’ around the world without a penny.
-Mac Kee France,* quoting his grandmother
Photos, from top: A glimpse of Nevis Peak © Haggerty Photography; The main pool deck from the steps of the main building at the Four Seasons Resort Nevis © Haggerty Photography; Nevis Peak from the Four Seasons Resort Nevis © Haggerty Photography; Opposite page: The dock leading to the Four Seasons Resort Nevis © Haggerty Photography; The main building of the Four Seasons Resort Nevis from the pool deck © Haggerty Photography;
Alexander Hamilton was born or rather “dropped in the middle of a forgotten spot in the Caribbean” in the 1750s (whether it was 1755 or 1757, we may never know). Still, that line is the only one that almost mentions a genuinely unforgettable place in Lin-Manuel Miranda’s recordsmashing Hamilton. While several of the Nevisians I spoke to would have preferred for Miranda to namedrop Nevis, it would admittedly be a more difficult rhyme.
Even so, maybe Nevis shouldn’t be a true lyric in the hit musical because what makes this 36-square-mile spot a true gem is that tourism hasn’t dominated it. And it is the hope of former Nevis Tourism Authority CEO turned Sun Tours owner Greg Phillip that the island maintains its spirit by keeping its tourism manageable.
A Tiny Island That Protects its Heart
Mega cruise ships can’t dock on Nevis, the island’s beaches aren’t crowded with allinclusive resorts, and you won’t get your fast food fix on Nevis either. Why? Because some cruise ships carry thousands of passengers while the island only has about 11,000 residents. Nevis wants to protect its resources and not become overrun by hotels. And as for the fast food places? They don’t make enough money to warrant a franchise on the island.
So if you want KFC, you’ll have to hop over to Nevis’ sister island St. Kitts, convince a friend to hop a ferry and fetch it for you or devise a new plan. But chances are you won’t want to because the cuisine you can find on Nevis is worlds above any franchise.
While those points may not impress other American tourists, knowing that Nevis stands firm in protecting itself and its people from overtourism only solidifies how special the island is.
After all, over-tourism wouldn’t just harm the Nevisian people; it would be devastating to Nevis’ main population—the green vervet monkey. These
non-native critters outnumber their human neighbors six to one. If brands or bigwigs were allowed to run rampant over Nevis, there would be no room for the glistening beaches, the island’s myriad of orchids, or the hummingbirds that adore them.
Photos, from top: A bird (perhaps a stork) eating a lizard on Nevis © Haggerty Photography; A green vervet monkey with her baby near the tennis courts at the Four Seasons Resort Nevis © Haggerty Photography; A royal tern taking off from the ocean © Haggerty Photography; An anole on a tree on Nevis © Haggerty Photography Although you won’t find resort clusters on Nevis, one stands out both because of its size and its service. The Four Seasons Resort Nevis sits along the famed Pinney’s Beach. It’s home to its own troop of vervet monkeys and employs some of the very best people. You can take a rum tasting class with their brilliant, award-winning mixologist Kendie Williams, learn about the island fauna from guest experiences director Mac Kee France (and by default his grandmother, who instilled so much wisdom in him). You’ll even become friends with the bartenders like Kurvron, who owns a bar in Charlestown called 5Trees.
Besides the government, the Four Seasons is the biggest employer on Nevis. Vacationers can even purchase timeshares on the property to have even more breathtaking views from the privacy of one of the dozens of villas. The aptly named Monkey Villa even has hand-painted murals. One bedroom transports you to a nature-reclaimed temple with animals, plant life, or temple ruins painted on every wall and even the ceiling.
What is particularly special for someone like me, who loves all things travel and theater, is that the Four Seasons embraces the island’s connection to Alexander Hamilton. They’re “not throwing away [their] shot.” Their Alexander Hamilton package includes a historically styled portrait session with a local artist, a Hamilton-focused tour of the island as well as a history lesson for the Hamilfans with kids in tow.
Musical references aside, Nevis is the kind of paradise I had only ever dreamed of. As our boat shuttle jetted us from St. Kitts to the island, Nevis Peak looming large, my heart soared faster than the boat slapping through the water. Who could have ever guessed an island nearly one-seventh the size of my home city of Chicago could leave such an imprint in my heart?