The Splendors of Northern Italy

I’m ecstatic at the prospect of traveling again. Where? Why Italy, of course!

Splendors of North Italy Culinary Tour

My first and only trip to Italy (so far) was on a Splendors of North Italy culinary tour in 2017 with Chef Mark McDonald of Old Vine Restaurant and Bar in Orange County, California. Chef Mark’s partner in these extraordinary small group tours is Chef John Nocita, founder of the Italian Culinary Institute in Calabria. The two chefs led tours in Southern Italy for ten years and added Northern Italy in 2016.

I traveled with a broken hand and a back brace following a truck accident two weeks prior and couldn’t have done it without my girlfriend June helping me haul my suitcase on and off many train platforms.

Our food and wine adventure began in Lake Garda, which served as our base for day trips to Verona, Modena, the Alto Adige wine region, and Bolzano. Our home for four nights was the stylish Hotel Nazionale near the town center of Desenzano Del Garda. When we weren’t exploring Verona or sipping wine in Modena or Alto Adige, we learned a b o u t authentic Italian cuisine through chef demonstrations and tastings that highlighted the simple, yet exquisite, Italian cuisine. We also tried our hand at making fresh pasta—it’s easier with two hands *wink.

Day Trip to Verona

The unrelenting rain was the only thing that dampened our time in Verona. June and I strolled the glistening cobblestone streets to the Verona Arena and searched for Juliet’s balcony. Yes, the balcony made famous by Shakespeare’s sonnet and the Romeo & Juliet movies is one of the most popular attractions in Verona. The Verona Arena is a Roman amphitheater built in the first century. Still in use today, it is internationally recognized for the large-scale opera performances given there. It is one of the best-preserved ancient structures of its kind.

We reunited with the group to dine at one of Verona’s oldest restaurants, Antica Bottega del Vino, where the wine list was the size of the Gutenberg Bible. Purchased by The Amarone Family in 2011, Bottega del Vino’s history dates back to the 1500s when the tavern first opened for business. During Vinitaly, the famous eatery is a social hub packed tight with wine producers, journalists, and trade.

Day Trip to Cleto Chiarli in Modena

In Modena, we toured the

Charcuterie platter in Bologna

vineyard and production facility of Cleto Chiarli, makers of premium Lambrusco and aged balsamic vinegar. The vineyard was a stunning sight, vines heavy with dusky Lambrusco grapes ready for harvest and leaves vibrant with fall colors. Cleto Chiarli’s retail and tasting building are just as you imagine an Italian villa, smooth terracotta-colored stucco with an arched loggia draped in a brilliant crimson vine, grounds lush with foliage, rustic pottery, and charming vignettes. Lunch was a leisurely affair savoring multiple courses and wine pairings. Our server was a happy gentleman whose smile I will never forget.

Bologna—The Gastronomic Capital of Italy

Wine Tasting at Erste & Neue in Trentino Alto Adige

The breathtaking scenery of the Trentino-Alto Adige region fills my memories. Glimpses of small vineyards awash with sunlight. The panoramic view of Lake Kaltern with the Alps in the distance while we sipped a sparkling wine from Erste & Neue. Our guide Daniel led us through the barrel room, its sloped walls painted with vibrant colors depicting the wine harvest, followed by a 13-bottle wine tasting. We spent the waning hours of the day in Bolzano, a quaint village set against a stunning Alps mountain backdrop where Alpine influences merge with Italian culture.

Then, it was off to the magical city of Bologna for two nights before returning home. Considered the gastronomic capital of Italy, the food in Bologna is as fabulous as the city itself. Must-eats are tortellini in brodo, mortadella, prosciutto, Parmigiano Reggiano, Ragú Bolognese, and lasagne, traditionally made with spinach noodles and creamy béchamel sauce. Our tiny accommodations were comical, but the delectable food and fascinating street life more than made up it.

Photos clockwise from left: Wine tasting overlooking Lake Kaltern; Bolzano, Italy; Lasagna in Bologna; Tortellini el Brodo in Bologna; Pasta making in Bologna