Catching Up with Chef Geoff Gunn of Oregon’s Bridgewater Bistro

By Mary Farah

Because I’m gluten-free, road trips can be tricky. While I’ve certainly had some misses, I’ve had many more hits. A highlight will always be my trek through the Oregon coast into Washington. Oregon is an eclectic, hip state with several menus listing where your dish was actually sourced. A perfect example of a restaurant dedicated to meeting your needs is Astoria’s Bridgewater Bistro.

I arrived in Astoria eager to find the filming locations of Kindergarten Cop, one of my favorite movies from the 1990’s. Little did I know I’d leave with a new favorite place to dine.

Overlooking the water and stunning AstoriaMegler Bridge, Bridgewater Bistro was born over 15 years ago. At that time, the quaint port town was a bit down on its luck. Fishing had gone to Alaska, and there was not much livelihood left in Astoria. That is, until the bi-centennial of the Lewis and Clark expedition. The excursion that had found the explorers heading from St. Louis to the center of the Columbia River, which just happens to surround Astoria.

Bistro owners, Tony and Ann Kischner, knew an opportunity had knocked. With nearly a million visitors expected to hit town from 2004 to 2007, the culinary husband and wife duo knew those coming to town would want more than just a fast food burger. Thus, Bridgewater Bistro was born.

,Ann an accomplished pastry chef, was shocked to discover that ongoing digestive issues were being caused by gluten. Instead of hanging up her

apron, she got to work creating a remarkable menu of gluten-free dishes at the bistro. While many restaurants offer gluten-friendly options, common “off limit” items like clam chowder and decadent desserts are solely available gluten-free.

Bridgewater Bistro’s chef, Geoff Gunn, works closely with Ann to deliver the dynamic dishes the bistro is famous for. I was thrilled to catch up with Chef Geoff and learn more about him and his path that led him to Astoria.

When and where did your culinary career begin?

It started in 1993 when I worked as a bus person at Duke's Waikiki. I saw the kitchen and all the commotion and crazy talk. I said,"This is for me!”

I stayed mostly in front of the house for quite a few years. After a while I got a chance to work with a few master chefs and realized that's my calling.

What was a turning point in your chef's journey?

I can't say there was one decisive "calling.” Working with some amazing chefs and tasting their food made me think, “Maybe I can do this.”

I've learned from master chefs of many culinary disciplines and backgrounds to help me grow . I am so thankful for all the knowledge they have gracefully given to me. It truly is our job to teach the younger generation. If not, the skills and

What brought you to Astoria and Bridgewater Bistro?

Starting at Bridgewater was amazing. I could finally express myself openly. It was a perfect canvas for my exploration of food. We really pushed the envelope of dining in this area. It was something you could relate to but haven't seen in most places around here.

Local and tropical, locally harvested and foraged mushrooms, berries and herbs paired with fish from our own waters as well as beautiful fish flown in overnight from Hawaii. No limits!

What’s your kitchen pet peeve?

My biggest pet peeve is short cuts. Don't rush it. It needs to do its thing. It needs time. Let it mature at it's own pace. Food needs to find it's full potential without you forcing it. Be patient.

After a long day in the kitchen, describe your perfect meal and drink?

My favorite meal after shift is pollo pibil with mustard greens and polenta, a nice shot of tequila and a beer. It's on our menu, by the way.

What is your advice to aspiring chefs out there?

It's a very hard time we are going through right now. Embrace the struggle your entire staff is dealing with. Try to understand and be compassionate of their needs and the needs of your guests. Look for people who can really be accommodating.

Photos (left-to-right): Chef Geoff; The bar; Deck dining

Bridgewater Bistro Clam and Mussel Chowder

This delicious chowder was a favorite at the Kischner’s Shoalwater Restaurant in Seaview, Washington, for 27 years, and has quickly made addicts of guests at The Bridgewater as well. Serve with a good bread (Ann’s birdseed bread is a good option), a crisp salad, and a bottle of Mt. Baker Viognier for a meal you won’t soon forget.

Ingredients

2.5 pounds manila clams 2.5 pounds mussels Steam together in 1 cup of water just until the shells pop open. Shuck, reserving the cooking liquid and meat. 2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced into 1" cubes, parboiled to half done 1 large yellow onion, diced 1 stalk celery, diced 2 Tb. butter 1 28 ounce can of organic tomato sauce 2 cups heavy cream 1 ½ tsp. dried basil 2 tsp. curry powder salt and pepper, to taste

Directions

Saute the onions and celery in the butter until the onions turn translucent. Add the cooked potatoes and toss to coat with the butter.

Over medium heat, add the tomato sauce, cream and reserved mussel and clam liquid, stirring well. Add basil, curry, salt and pepper. Simmer for 35 minutes, stirring frequently from the bottom to prevent scorching. Add the mussels and clams. Heat through and serve.

Bon Appetit!

Photos: Bar looking upriver; The chef no the deck